nrPT 


CONKEY'S 

Stock  Book 


A  Handy  Reference  Manual 
ON   FARM   ANIMALS 

Copyright  1911      :      :      By  The  G.  E.  Conkey  Company 


Prefatory  Note 

HORSES,  cattle,  sheep  and  swine :    If  any  of  these  interest  yon 
then  this  book  will  be  of  interest. 

But  more  than  that,  the  aim  has  been  to  make  it  of  positive, 
unmistakable  value,  not  only  for  reading  but  as  a  handy  book  of  refer- 
ence, covering  the  chief  facts  the  live  stock  owner  needs  to  know  about 
the  four  farm  animals. 

It  s  purpose  is  to  be  useful  to  you.  If  it  is  useful  to  you,  then  it 
is  useful  to  us,  reminding  you  that  we  are  interested  in  your  welfare 
and  are  ready  waiting  whenever  you  have  need  of  us. 

Command  us  in  any  emergency.  Just  Conkcy,  Cleveland,  U.  S.  A. — 
that  will  reach  us  from  any  point  on  the  globe,  so  long  as  Uncle  Sam 
is  on  the  job  and  the  stamp  sticks  fast  in  the  corner. 
Yours  for  our  common  good, 

THE  G.  E.  CONKF.Y  COMPANY. 


T 


Why  Livestock? 

O  be  sure  it  pays  to  stick  to  the  farm  and  live  stock!  Did  you 
ever  see  a  run  down  farm  where  the  farmer  kept  plenty  of 
live  stock? 


Did  you? 

Farming,  like  any  other  business,  is  made  up  of  little  things, 
countless  details.  It's  the  little  things  that  make  up  the  big  failure  or 
big  success.  Nothing  is  trivial. 

Profit  means  putting  the  farm  on  a  business  basis,  crowding  to 
the  limit  for  healthy  production,  spying  out  the  sluggards  and  getting 
rid  of  them,  whether  hired  help  or  live  stock. 

.  There  are  some  farmers,  who  are  only  "miners" — always  robbing 
the  soil  and  putting  nothing  back  into  it.  There  is  a  limit  to  the  avail- 
able acres.  We  have  learned  to  prize  the  land.  Preservation  and  con- 
servation of  the  soil  is  the  problem  of  this  country  today.  Crops  alone 
can  never  make  an  ideal  business  farm.  Besides  this,  there  is  too  much 
waste  in  gleaning,  culling,  roughage,  which  vigorous  farm  animals 
could  make  into  marketable  flesh  or  products.  Crop  farming  means 
congested  labor — not  hands  enough  in  busy  season,  in  winter  too  many 
hands  waiting  idle. 

A  business  is  not  economically  operated  unless  it  distributes  labor 
over  the  entire  year.  For  instance,  a  six  months'  occupation  might  be 
considered  profitable  when  estimated  for  that  short  period,  while  at 
the  same  time  the  income  from  it  spread  out  over  the  whole  twelve 
months  might  show  an  actual  loss.  Live  stock  equalize  labor,  distribute 
it  through  the  whole  year  and  justify  the  owner  in  making  his  contracts 
on  a  yearly  basis.  Help  that  is  coming  and  going  is  not  efficient  or 
economical  in  farm  management,  any  more  than  it  is  in  an  office  or 
mercantile  business. 

Statistics  show  that  in  sections  devoted  to  the  raising  of  live  stock 
and  crops,  the  total  wealth  of  farms  is  higher  than  the  wealth  of  similar 
farms  in  sections  of  equal  resourcefulness  and  equal  area  but  devoted 

273491 


to  the  raising  of  crops  alone,  Exceptions  to  this  rule  might  occur  in 
special  tracts  of  virgin  soil,  or  land  on  lake  or  river  banks.  But  the 
general  argument  is  not  affected  by  such  special  exceptions. 

"No  grass,  no  cattle,  no  cattle,  no  manure,  no  manure,  no  crop,' 
says  an  old  Flemish  proverb.  "Farming  in  a  circle"  is  the  only  pro- 
ductive method. 

Regular  and  systematic  fertilization  of  the  soil  is  a  prime  necessity 
in  farm  management ;  and  the  economy  of  securing  this  necessary  fer- 
tilizer right  on  the  farm,  instead  of  shipping  and  hauling  from  outside, 
is  plain  to  any  man.  Moreover,  material  losses  in  grain  and  waste  can 
be  overcome  where  the  farmer  has  plenty  of  live  stock.  Grain  lost  in 
the  field  during  harvesting  can  all  be  saved  and  made  into  good  pork 
and  bacon  simply  by  turning  in  the  swine.  Straw  left  in  the  fields 
after  harvesting  is  of  considerable  worth  as  bulk  food  for  cattle.  While 
this  stubble  is  burned  on  the  ground  in  the  large  western  tracts,  such  a 
practice  would  not  be  considered  for  a  moment  by  the  thrifty  farmer 
and  stockman  on  the  average  sized  farm.  Fields  in  which  crops  have 
been  raised,  neglected  corners  and  road-sides,  all  can  be  easily  cleaned 
of  weeds  simply  by  turning  in  the  sheep,  which  always  give  a  good 
account  of  themselves  with  food  of  this  nature  at  their  disposal. 

The  secret  of  success  is  thrift,  in  all  its  phases — and  principally 
thrift  in  management. 

Get  back  to  the  original  statement — did  you  ever  see  a  run-down 
farm  where  the  owner  kept  plenty  of  live  stock? 

Everyone  respects  the  owner  of  nifty,  thrifty  live  stock.  Horses, 
cattle,  sheep  and  swine — each  animal  fits  into  its  proper  place.  Live 
stock  raising  is  the  soil's  salvation  and  swings  the  balance  for  profitable 
farm  management. 


Conkey's  Stock  Book 


PROFIT  means  pushing  to  the  limit  of  healthy  production.  There 
is  no  room  for  easy  going  methods  on  the  farm  of  today.  Beef  type, 
dairy  type,  fleece  or  mutton,  every  farm  animal  must  come  up  to  the 
standard  for  quality  selected,  and  must  pay  good  returns  on  the 
money  invested.  Who  wants  star  boarders? 

Start  right.  Good  care  and  feeding  insure  good  qualities  if  the  stock 
itself  has  them.  This  general  subject  of  selection  is  the  foundation  of 
success  or  failure.  Know  what  you  want:  pick  your  type:  stick  to  it,  and 
give  it  your  unremitting  care.  No  matter  how  good  the  ration  and  how 
well  fitted  to  a  special  production,  you  will  defeat  the  whole  purpose  of 
your  feeding  if  you  fail  in  the  first  place  to  select  good  animals  of  the 
type  desired.  You  cannot  get  milk  by  feeding  a  beef  animal,  so  you 
select  in  the  first  place  the  characteristics  wanted,  and  then  feed  for  the 
development  of  these  characteristics  alone.  Nothing  will  correct  mistakes 
in  selection.  Start  right;  then  feed  a  plenty;  but  don't  keep  pitching  down 
feed  for  a  lot  of  greedy  animals  that  make  you  no  return. 

Cut  loose  from  Nature  and  her  losing  game — join  hands  with  money- 
making  science  and  then  see  how  farming  pays.  Nature  wants  five  years 
to  make  a  1000  Ib.  steer — but  you  can  get  that  weight  in  one  year. 
Nature  wants  just  twice  the  time  the  modern  hog  raiser  needs  to  make 
a  200  Ib.  hog.  Nature  made  her  plans  for  milk  enough  for  a  cow's  calf, 
and  she  was  satisfied  with  a  milk  flow  during  good  pasture  season — but 
are  you  so  easily  satisfied? 

There  is  one  mighty  good  thing  you  can  learn  from  Dame  Nature. 
You  can  learn  how  she  operates  her  law  for  the  survival  of  the  most  fit. 
Just  follow  that  law  boldly  and  follow  it  closely.  You  have  a  lot  to  do 
in  your  time  and  a  shorter  life  than  old  Nature  so  make  every  bit  of  it 
count.  Be  particular,  a  good  deal  more  particular  than  Nature.  Weed  out 
the  "bad  doers."  Don't  waste  valuable  time  on  a  poor  individual,  for 
such  weaklings  will  surely  be  developed  at  the  expense  of  your  other  stock. 

FITTING  Start  first  with  conditions.     Consider  your  surroundings 

CONDITIONS  and  how  they  are  suited  to  a  given  breed.  It  is  right  to 
plan  for  conditions  as  you  hope  them  to  be,  but  start 
with  due  consideration  for  things  as  they  actually  are.  Certain  breeds  will 
not  thrive,  or  produce  their  maximum  results,  no  matter  how  good  the 
care,  if  placed  in  surroundings  at  total  variance  with  those  under  which 
they  have  been  developed  for  generations  past.  We  must  take  into  account 
such  inborn  characteristics,  the  natural  fitness  to  the  conditions  that  we 
find.  Thus,  consider  your  facilities  for  raising  the  food-stuffs  best  adapted 
to  the  chosen  breed,  consider  the  lay  of  the  land,  its  drainage  and  soil 
conditions  on  account  of  rain  supply,  and  the  nature  of  the  climate  with 
which  you  have  to  deal. 

BREEDS      Practically   all   breeds  are  good — that  is  good  for  something. 

No    breed    is    fool   proof.      Know    what   you   want.      For   beef 

production  select  carefully  the  animals  intended  for  further  development. 


CONKEY'S   STOCK   BOOK 


Different  breeds  vary  in  form.  Select  the  individual  specimens  which 
show  the  greatest  promise  of  the  breed  characteristics.  Make  it  always  an 
individual  test.  Then  by  corresponding  feed  and  treatment  develop  always 
for  that  form.  The  individual  specimens  should  be  selected  as  specimens, 
and  must  be  hardy,  of  a  quiet  disposition,  not  nervous  and  in  general  well 
adapted  to  the  climate  and  range  conditions  of  your  farm. 

In  the  same  way,  for  milk  production,  care  must  be  exercised  to  select 
the  best  possible  individuals  for  the  dairy  herd.  Here  again  make  it  a 
test  of  the  individual  and  see  to  it  that  as  individual  specimens  they  have 
those  necessary  qualities  of  gentleness,  strong  nerve  power,  large  capacity 
for  storage  of  food  stuffs  and  ability  to  utilize  it  for  the  production 
desired.  Look  for  the  large  development  of  the  milk  bag,  a  long  wide 
udder  extending  well  forward  and  well  up  behind. 

PREPOTENCY  With  any  type,  the  capacity  for  correct  transmission  of 
characteristics  to  offspring,  is  another  consideration. 
There  are  many  breeds  of  cattle,  horses,  sheep  and  swine  which  are 
strongly  prepotent  and  can  be  relied  upon  for  constitutional  vigor  in  trans- 
mitting their  characteristics  to  the  line. 

BREEDING  With  horses,  in-breeding  is  resorted  to  for  the  purpose  of 
fixing  permanently  qualities  of  development  toward  a  breed 
characteristic  for  which  the  breeder  has  been  striving.  Cross-breeding,  on 
the  other  hand,  is  resorted  to  for  the  purpose  of  uniting  in  the  foal  char- 
acteristics of  both  sire  and  dam.  With  cattle,  sheep  and  swine,  in  grading-up 
common  stock,  the  choice  of  a  male  should  be  made  with  the  view  of 
producing  in  the  offspring  and  establishing  in  the  line  the  desirable 
qualities  of  the  male.  Moreover,  there  are  certain  laws  governing  breed 
characteristics.  Prepotency,  however  strong,  cannot  always  bring  quick 
results. 

Common  undersized  beef  stock  can  be  graded  up  to  a  larger  and 
better  standard  of  beef  type  than  the  same  stock  could  be  developed  for 
milk  production.  It  takes  generations  and  the  most  intelligent  selection 
before  results  of  the  highest  dairy  standard  can  be  obtained.  Just  so 
"with  sheep:  The  Merino  breed  is  known  the  world  over  for  its  fine  qual- 
ity of  wool  and  stands  at  the  head  in  that  characteristic.  But  it  is  small, 
and  for  the  production  of  mutton  alone  would  represent  an  unprofitable 
breed.  Now  it  might  take  four  or  five  sheep  generations  to  produce  a 
good  mutton  form  by  crossing  Merino  dams  with  rams  from  one  of  the 
noted  mutton  breeds.  But  it  would  take  from  twenty  to  thirty  generations 
to  produce  a  breed  of  the  fine  wool  qualities  of  the  Merino  from  any  of 
the  mutton  types. 

Similarly  in  feeding:  Some  stock  owners  suppose  that  by  feeding 
food  stuffs  high  in  carbohydrates  (fat)  a  greater  percentage  of  butter 
fat  will  be  produced  in  the  milk.  But  the  percentage  of  butter  in  the 
milk  of  an  individual  cow  or  herd  depends  on  inborn  qualities  in  that  cow 
or  breed.  Such  a  system  of  feeding  would  tend  to  increase  the  milk 
supply,  and  with  it  of  course  the  total  amount  of  butter  fat.  But  it  would 
not,  could  not,  alter  the  strain  characteristics  to  the  extent  of  raising  the 
standard  of  percentage  of  butter  fat  of  the  herd  or  cow.  You  can't  feed 
it  in, — you  must  breed  it  in.  We  should  realize  our  limitations:  know  what 
to  expect. 

Breeding  is  hardly  an  exact  science.  But  it  works  pretty  close  to 
mathematical  rule.  If  there  is  any  one  thing  positively  settled  by  scien- 
tific farming  it  is  this — that  it's  only  common  sense  and  everyday  thrift 


CARE  OF  LIVESTOCK 


to  breed  only  the  best  you've  got,  and  always  to  use  good  blood  for  sires. 
Uo  not  select  for  pedigree  alone,  or  even  individual  performance.  Put 
your  real  money  in  a  proved  sire:  let  his  sons  and  daughters  be  the  test 
of  quality.  You  could  experiment  twenty  years  in  breeding,  and  learn 
nothing  more  important  than  this  statement  you  have  just  read. 

Figure   for   yourself   what   you    can    do   in    a   half    dozen    generations 
with  strict  attention  to  selecting  pure  bred  sires  in  your  herd. 


GENERATION 

SIRE 

DAM 

OFFSPRING 

Per  cent 

Per  cent 

Per  cent 

Per  cent 

Pure  Blood 

Pure  Blood 

Improved  Blood 

Unimproved  Blood 

1st 

100 

0 

50 

50 

2nd 

100 

50 

75 

25 

3rd 

100 

75 

87.5 

12.5 

4th 

100 

87.50 

93.75 

6.25 

5th 

100 

93.75 

96.87 

3.12 

6th 

100 

96.87 

98.84 

1.56 

This  table  has  equal  application  in  the  breeding  of  all  classes  of  live 
stock. 

You  can  see  that  it  really  does  pay,  as  nothing  else  on  the  farm  can  pay, 
to  put  money  into  the  right  kind  of  a  sire. 


CARE  OF  LIVESTOCK 

BREEDING,  Care  and  Feeding — these  three  topics  make  up  the  whole 
science  of  managing  livestock  to  make  it  pay. 
There  can  be  no  thrift  in  management  without  equal  attention 
to  all  three. 

You  start  right  when  you  make  a  proper  type  selection,  and  you  keep 
right  when  you  follow  scientific  care,  and  feed  according  to  feeding  laws. 

Man  can  combat  nature — that  is,  he  can  counteract  bad  conditions 
by  proper  care,  and  get  a  surprising  amount  of  good  even  out  of  bad 
material.  But  the  thrifty  farmer  must  keep  a  sharp  eye  out  on  thriftless 
Nature,  for  she  is  a  wasteful,  extravagant  dame.  The  truth  is  that  Nature 
cares  only  to  preserve  herself  by  perpetuating  the  most  fit.  The  unfit  she 
gets  rid  of  the  easiest  way. 

It  is  a  curious  fact  that  in  a  state  of  nature,  if  animals  breed  to  the 
extent  of  overcrowding,  Nature  frets  herself  until  she  starts  some  disease, 
which  gets  rid  of  the  weakest  animals  and  leaves  more  room  for  the  best. 
Disease-producing  germs  were  intended  by  Nature  for  just  this  culling  out 
of  the  weakest — plants,  brutes  or  men — for  a  healthier  survival  of  those 
most  fit. 

AGAINST  NATURE      Domestication  with  the  consequent  crowding  into 
stables,  pens  or  other  buildings,  is  against  natural 

law.     Nature  will  fight  against  it;  but  the  thrifty  stockman  knows  how  to 
fight  against  Nature's  laws. 

Wild  horses  and  cattle  roaming  the  plains  were  not  crowded  in  their 
range,  and  the  most  abundant  air,  food  and  vigorous  exercise  aided  to  keep 
up  the  standard  of  health.  But  even  then,  they  were  thinned  by  natural 
enemies  and  disease,  when  demanded  for  balance  by  Nature's  law. 


8 CONKEY'S  STOCK  BOOK 

In  domesticating  living  creatures,  animals  or  fowls,  even  in  the  hous- 
ing and  crowding  of  man  himself,  we  know  we  are  going  against  Nature's 
law.  Consumption,  the  great  white  plague,  may  be  the  greatest  but  it 
isn't  the  only  "house  disease,"  as  your  doctor  will  tell  you  any  day. 

Wherever  living  creatures  congregate  will  be  found  disease  germs,  to 
say  nothing  of  parasites  lurking  and  waiting  for  victims.  Perfect  health 
in  any 'organism  has,  by  that  same  Nature's  law,  the  power  of  resistance, 
even  to  very  serious  disease  conditions.  There  is  a  healing  process  in 
the  healthy  cells  of  living  tissue.  It  fights  disease  germs,  destroys  them, 
throws  them  off.  But  let  the  same  living  creature  become  weakened  from 
any  cause  and  it  loses  this  resistance;  disease  germs  attack  it  like  ravenous 
wolves  and  if  the  right  sort  of  help  does  not  come  in  time  the  life  of  that 
organism  is  destroyed. 

Just   as   civilized   man   must  live   in   houses,   so  livestock  must,   to  be 

profitable,  put  up  with  conditions   against   Nature's   law.      But,   warned  of 

the   danger,   the   up-to-date   stockman   can   keep   a   sharp   lookout,   and  be 
armed  for  the  fight  against  Nature's  law. 

KEEP  CLEAN      In  this  whole  problem  of   close   quarters   and   profit   in 

livestock,  the  chief  question  is  Sanitation;  the  next  most 

important  is  Sanitation;  and  SANITATION  is  the  most  important  of  all. 

Keep  everything  clean.  Disinfect  regularly  if  you  expect  to  keep  down 
disease  germs.  Many  of  the  diseases  of  animals  are  of  germ  origin;  to 
fight  these  germs  is  a  first  essential,  and  is  just  as  necessary  as  to  feed 
and  water  the  stock.  An  ounce  of  prevention  is  still  worth  a  pound  of 
cure.  Nearly  all  diseases  of  stock  may  be  traced  to  poor  feeding,  unsani- 
tary quarters  and  insufficient  care.  Cleanliness,  absolute  cleanliness,  is  as 
important  as  any  other  consideration.  Disease  germs  thrive  in  filth  and 
dirt  and  all  conditions  that  favor  mould  or  fungus  growth. 

Let  us  thoroughly  understand  what  is  meant  by  filth,  for  a  little  of  it 
means  a  lot.  On  the  foot  of  a  common  house  fly,  six  hundred  thousand 
typhoid  germs  have  been  found,  and  six  million  on  the  whole  of  its  little 
body.  When  we  think  of  such  facts  we  will  cease  to  think  of  heaped-up 
manure  piles  as  the  only  source  of  germ  contagion,  We  begin  to  under- 
etand  that  any  taint  can  harbor  germs. 

DISINFECTING  Disinfection  is  a  necessity.  A  good,  economical  liquid 
disinfectant  should  be  kept  on  hand  and  used  regu- 
larly. Any  disinfectant  used  must  be  good  enough  to  kill  a  germ  by  odor 
as  well  as  contact;  and  while  thoroughly  effective  as  a  germ  killer,  at  the 
same  time  it  must  not  be  injurious  to  livestock  either  in  odor  or  contact. 
It  must  be  non-explosive,  non-corrosive,  non-poisonous, — that  is  safe — 
and  of  an  agreeable  nature,  so  that  it  can  be  used  conveniently,  and  what 
is  more,  will  be  used, — not  only  in  barn  and  stable  but  in  sick  room 
(systematically  for  prevention  and  always  when  occasion  needs).  To 
meet  all  practical  purposes  the  disinfectant  used  must  be  an  antiseptic, 
germicide,  parasiticide  and  insecticide  all  in  one.  Let  us  take  a  moment 
to  go  over  these  four  points,  which  are  the  four  cardinal  points  in  helping 
Nature  to  combat  unnatural  conditions  on  the  stock  farm: 

WHAT  IS  AN  An  antiseptic  is  a  healing  remedy  in  this  sense;  that 
ANTISEPTIC?  while  it  has  no  healing  property  in  itself, — as  the  heal- 
ing process  is  in  the  living  cells  of  the  tissues  only, — 
it  prevents  the  germs  and  bacteria  from  hindering  nature  in  its  healing 
process.  It  keeps  the  tissues  germ-free  and  healthy.  Nature  with  these 


CARE   OF   LIVESTOCK 


does  its  own  wonderful  work  in  closing  a  wound  and  knitting  up  the 
flesh.  A  true  antiseptic  destroys  the  enemies  to  healing,  and  the  wound 
then  will  heal  of  itself.  If  it  were  not  for  bacteria  no  wound  would  be 
fatal  unless  a  vital  organ  were  crippled.  Abscesses,  wounds,  and  sores 
give  the  very  best  conditions  for  the  growth  of  germs  and,  without  any 
antiseptic,  they  swarm  with  them.  It  is  the  tendency  of  every  open  sore  to 
form  pus. 

WHAT  IS  A  There  are  some  germicides  that  would  be  dangerous  to 
GERMICIDE?  use  as  antiseptics.  Germicides  work  in  two  ways — by 
odor  and  by  contact.  A  good  germicide  that  is  effective 
by  both  odor  and  contact,  will,  if  systematically  used,  prevent  the  growth 
of  disease  germs  under  conditions  where  they  would  naturally  thrive  and 
multiply  to  the  danger  point.  Germicides  keep  down  dangerous  gases 
and  make  the  atmosphere  clean.  They  don't  take  the  place  of  shovel 
and  hoe  or  an  extra  hired  man,  and  will  not  clean  out  filth;  but  they  will 
make  the  atmosphere  wholesome  and  free  from  the  germs  which  cause 
disease. 

WHAT  IS  A  If    your    antiseptic    and    germicide    has    that    property 

PARASITICIDE?     which    makes   it   a   parasiticide   it   is   a   truly   valuable 

product.     By  parasiticide  we  mean  ability  to  destroy, 

not  only  the  lice  and  vermin  which  infest  the  animal  upon  the  surface  of 
the  skin,  but  the  parasites  which  burrow  under  the  surface  and  cause  skin 
disease  like  mange,  itch,  etc.  To  be  a  true  parasiticide  the  preparation 
you  select  must  do  all  this,  but  it  must  stop  with  the  parasite  and  not  hurt 
the  animal  in  the  least  or  injure  the  skin,  hair  or  wool. 

WHAT  IS  AN  Now  comes  the  full  test  of  a  general,  all-around  article: 
INSECTICIDE?  It  must  kill  insects, — anything  from  a  bed-bug,  cock- 
roach, or  flea,  to  the  potato-bug  or  the  little  aphis  that 
injures  the  rose  bushes;  and  ants  and  all  creeping  and  crawling  things. 
Thus  it  is  an  insecticide.  Such  an  article  is  Conkey's  Nox-i-cide  Dip  and 
Disinfectant,  an  article  that  can  be  depended  on  at  all  times  for  countless 
purposes,  the  best  all-around  dip  and  disinfectant,  parasiticide  and  insecti- 
cide for  the  farmer  and  the  stock  owner  of  today. 

CLEAN  HEALTHY        In  stable  sanitation  great   strides  have  been   made 

STABLES  in  the  last  few  years.     Even  legislation  has  taken 

a  hand  in  many  states,  enforcing  inspection  to  meet 

the  demand  for  clean  healthy  stables  and  sanitary  dairy  conditions.  Especi- 
ally is  this  true  where  dairy  and  beef  cattle  are  kept.  On  first  thought 
such  laws  might  be  felt  to  work  a  hardship  upon  the  owners  of  stock. 
But  as  a  matter  of  fact  they  are  a  benefit  to  everyone;  and  especially 
to  owners,  who  actually  reap  an  increased  profit  from  living  up  to  the 
requirements  of  the  law. 

Stagnant  water,  or  water  accumulated  in  holes  without  an  outlet 
should  be  avoided.  Here  again  it  is  worth  while  to  repeat  the  caution  to 
keep  all  the  yards  clean.  Remove  all  manure  and  accumulated  rub- 
bish. Drain  the  wet  places  and  fill  them  in.  Stir  up  the  earth  so  that 
the  sun  can  get  to  it  and  purify  it.  Sprinkle  once  a  month  with  a  good 
disinfectant,  like  Conkey's  Nox-i-cide  Dip  and  Disinfectant,  which  is  a 
general  purpose  article.  Disinfect  thoroughly.  Whitewash  all  sheds  for 
sheep  or  swine,  and  make  everything  sweet  and  clean.  See  index  for 
receipt  for  United  States  government  whitewash. 


10 


CONKEY'S  STOCK   BOOK 


FLOORS  If  the  floors  are  rotting  with  manure  take  up  the  planks  and 
thoroughly  remove  the  accumulation  beneath.  Take  out  an 
inch  or  two  of  earth  as  well;  put  in  a  layer  of  concrete  composed  of  one 
part  Portland  cement  and  three  parts  clean  sand.  After  this  sets,  disinfect 
thoroughly  with  Conkey's  Nox-i-cide  Dip  and  Disinfectant  and  finally 
put  back  the  planks,  after  having  treated  them  on  all  surfaces  with 
Nox-i-cide.  You  will  find  this  method  of  construction  a  great  improve- 
ment. Not  only  will  it  outlast  the  old,  but  it  will  be  an  easier  matter  to 
keep  the  stable  clean,  besides  giving  you  opportunity  to  disinfect  under- 
neath. Do  not  allow  manure  to  remain  in  the  stable  any  length  of  time. 
It  is  injurious  to  your  animals'  feet.  It  ruins  the  air  the  animals  breathe. 
Its  fumes  rise  to  the  loft  and  spoil  the  feed.  Its  decomposition  causes 
the  wooden  floor  to  decay. 

If  board  floors  are  kicked  out  by  stamping  horses  take  better  precau- 
tions against  flies  annoying  stock.  Use  Conkey's  Fly  Knocker  during  the 
troublesome  season  and  cut  down  this  lumber  expense. 

BUILD  RIGHT     Rough   seasons  have  their  hardships  for  stock  in  close 

quarters.      With    plenty    of    room    for    the    stock    to    be 

housed,  and  proper  conveniences  for  those  who  take  care  of  them,  every 

stable  should  be  warm,  light,  well-ventilated.     This  means  in  the  first  place 


Round  Barn— A  type  now  much  in  favor 

proper  construction;  stables  should  be  roomy,  with  plenty  of  windows  and 
these  arranged  so  that  the  light  comes  from  behind  the  animals  instead 
of  directly  in  their  faces.  Floors  on  which  animals  stand  should  be 
pitched  just  enough  to  carry  off  the  water.  Stalls  should  slope  to  the 
gutter  2  inches  in  5  feet.  The  gutter  should  fall  1  inch  in  20  feet.  There 
should  be  means  for  ventilation  without  draft,  but  sufficient  to  carry  off  alt 
bad  odors.  The  well-known  King  system  is  the  best.  Round  barns  are 
now  much  in  favor  as  they  give  greatest  capacity  for  the  area  covered, 


CARE  OF  LIVESTOCK 11 

and  of  course  take  less  building  material.  They  are  easily  lighted,  easily 
ventilated  and  are  very  convenient  for  doing  the  work. 

It  is  true  that  the  needs  of  animals  vary  with  their  kind  and  condition. 
Species  vary  as  to  constitution.  Swine  need  more  protection  than  any 
other  animal,  as  the  hog's  coat  is  very  thin;  dairy  cows  come  next;  beef, 
horses  and  sheep  follow  in  the  order  given.  Warm  and  comfortable  quar- 
ters are  absolutely  necessary  to  swine  if  they  are  to  be  kept  thrifty  and 
growing  all  through  the  months  of  winter.  An  open  shed  is  the  best 
shelter  for  sheep,  which  need  plenty  of  fresh  air.  An  old  stable  too  cold  for 
horses  can  often  be  remodeled  for  sheep,  care  being  taken  that  it  is  not 
made  too  compact  and  air  tight.  The  main  points  with  sheep  are  to  keep 
them  dry  and  out  of  the  wind. 

Animals  show  greater  production  and  gain  from  the  food  consumed  if 
they  are  given  proper  shelter  and  care.  Also  note  that  while  exercise  in 
winter  makes  better  assimilation  of  the  feed,  a  greater  amount  of  food  is 
needed  to  maintain  body  heat  when  the  stock  is  unduly  exposed  to  the 
cold,  so  that  there  is  an  increase  in  cost  of  production  with  no  correspond- 
ing gain.  Age  and  health  must  always  be  reckoned  in  considering  tem- 
perature. Young  animals  need  safer  shelter  than  animals  that  have  fully 
matured,  this  fact  being  true  of  all  species, — foals,  calves,  pigs  and  lambs. 

FRESH  AIR  One  of  the  chief  essentials  is  ventilation.  We  know  from 
physiology  that  the  waste  matter  in  the  blood  is  carried 
through  the  vein  canals  to  the  lungs  and  there  subjected  to  the  process 
of  oxygenation.  Oxygenation  as  you  know  is  really  washing  in  air.  You 
wash  a  thing  to  get  it  clean.  You  can't  wash  a  handkerchief  clean  in 
dirty  water.  Thus,  blood  cannot  be  "washed  clean"  if  the  air  in  the  lungs 
is  not  pure,  that  is,  does  not  contain  the  necessary  amount  of  oxygen. 
Animals  must  have  pure  fresh  air  to  breathe.  Now  consider:  A  horse 
requires  twenty  times  as  much  oxygen  as  a  man.  Five  horses  then,  shut 
up  in  a  stable,  would  have  the  same  effect  on  the  atmosphere  there  as 
one  hundred  men  confined  in  the  same  space.  Have  you  air  enough  in  your 
stable  for  five  horses?  Would  you  like  to  be  shut  up  in  there  with  ninety- 
nine  other  men? 

Ventilation  should  be  in  proportion  to  "the  number  of  animals.  Cows 
should  have  500  cubic  feet  per  head.  Look  to  it  that  your  stock  have 
plenty  of  fresh  air  in  barn  or  stable.  Animals  are  sometimes  confined  for 
long  periods,  such  as  cattle  during  the  winter  or  other  inclement  weather. 
In-  respect  for  Nature's  law,  in  protection  of  your  investment,  you  must — 
side  by  side  with  sanitation — look  to  ventilation  in  your  stable  manage- 
ment. Have  you  windows  enough?  If  necessary,  saw  holes  in  your  barn 
and  cover  them  with  muslin.  Watch  drafts,  but  let  in  plenty  of  fresh  air. 

TO  THE  DUMP!     If  your  stable  has  a  strong  smell  take  the  necessary 
steps   to   get   rid   of   the   odor.     Clean   up   thoroughly. 

Disinfect.  (See  index  for  Conkey's  Nox-i-cide  Dip  and  Disinfectant.) 
Send  old  broken  brooms,  mouldy  shoes,  old  coats  and  hats,  old  straps, 
collars  and  whatnot  to  the  dump.  They  collect  dust,  favor  fungus  growth 
and  are  a  breeding  place  for  germs.  Wash  the  windows  free  from  cobwebs 
and  dust.  Why  keep  out  the  sunlight?  Science  claims  the  actinic  ray  in 
sunlight  is  one  of  the  most  powerful  disinfectants  and  germicides.  Apply 
a  coat  or  two  of  government  whitewash  (see  index  for  receipt)  to 


12 CONKEY'S  STOCK  BOOK 

ceilings  and  walls.     It  will  make  the   stable  more  cheerful,  intensify  the 

light,  and  be  more  sanitary  in  many  ways. 

HOW  TO  When  you  disinfect,  see  that  you  disinfect.  Here's  how  we 
DISINFECT  do  it:  Remove  first  all  dried  accumulations  about  the 
mangers,  floors  and  drains.  Then  sprinkle  disinfectant. 
Don't  wash  before  sprinkling  disinfectant  for  the  water  will  carry  the 
germs  into  the  cracks.  Disinfect  first.  Use  a  good  article,  and  a  cheap 
good  one,  because  you  must  be  willing  to  put  on  enough.  Many  places 
must  be  thoroughly  saturated  in  order  to  get  in  contact  with  all  the 
germs.  Get  into  every  crack  and  crevice,  go  wherever  dust  goes.  Go 
after  the  floors  and  the  lower  walls  with  a  scrub  brush  or  broom,  and 
use  a  spray  pump  on  higher  places.  After  disinfecting  whitewash  (every 
three  months  or  six  months  anyway).  Germs  of  many  diseases  can  keep 
alive  for  months. 

PULSE  To  test  an  animal's  normal  condition 
try  the  pulse.  This  will  show  the  heart 
action,  which  in  turn  will  show  the  state  of  the 
general  nervous  system.  To  take  the  pulse  of  the 
cow,  stand  at  the  left  side  of  the  head  and  reach 
over  to  the  left  jaw.  To  take  the  pulse  of  the 
horse  feel  under  the  lower  jaw  where  the  sub- 
maxillary  artery  winds  under  it.  If  you  stand  at 
the  left  of  the  head  of  the  animal  and  run  the 
fingers  along  the  lower  jaw-bone  the  artery  may 
be  felt  at  the  front  edge  of  the  large  muscle  at 
the  side  of  the  jaw.  In  dog  or  sheep  the  pulse  is 
taken  from  the  femoral  artery  on  the  inside  of  the  hind  leg. 

Note  that  in  health  the  pulse  is  full,  round  and  even.  It  varies  in 
different  animals: 

Horse     30  to  40  beats  per  minute 

Cow     35  to  42  beats  per  minute 

Sheep    70  to  80  beats  per  minute 

Dog     , 70  to  90  beats  per  minute 

In  young  animals  the  pulse  is  always  greater.  Also  it  is  greater  of 
course  under  action  or  excitement.  The  pulse  varies  in  quality, — is  hard 
where  the  artery  is  full  and  stands  out  under  pressure;  quick,  where  the 
beat  comes  spasmodically,  though  the  number  of  beats  per  minute  may  be 
no  greater;  slow,  where  the  beats  come  up  fully;  soft,  where  the  artery  is 
not  full  and  hard;  irregular  when  uneven  beats;  intermittent,  where  some 
beats  are  entirely  dropped. 

Pulse  is  an  indicator  of  health  condition,  but  only  experience  can  teach 
the  meaning  of  different  degrees  in  force  and  fulness,  as  well  as  differences 
in  frequency  of  beats.  A  veterinarian  grows  accustomed  to  these  differ- 
ences, and  can  tell  at  once  the  probable  nature  of  the  ailment.  Generally 
speaking,  in  a  sick  animal  a  quick  pulse  indicates  fever;  a  slow,  weak  pulse, 
debility;  a  hard,  jumping  pulse,  inflammation.  In  disease  of  the  heart  the 
pulse  is  irregular,  or  intermittent.  A  slow,  full  pulse  may  indicate  brain 
disease. 

TEMPERATURE    Temperature  tests  are  important,  and  it  is  surprising 
how  few  stock  owners  keep  on  hand  a  self-registering 

clinical  thermometer,  as  its  use  is  one  of  the  best  and  easiest  means  of 
diaenosine  trouble.     The  thermometer  should  be  shaken  down  before  using 


CARE  OP  LIVESTOCK  13 

and  should  be  left  in  the  body  of  the  animal  for  three  minutes  at  least; 
It  is  most  conveniently  inserted  in  the  anus  or  vulva  and  should  be  held 
in  place  about  three  minutes.  Here  is  a  table  for  normal  temperature 

Horse   99.5°-101°      F. 

Cattle    100°    -103°      F. 

Sheep    101°    —105.8°  F. 

Dogs  .  99.5°— 103°      F. 

Swine   100.9°— 105.4°   F. 

A  rise  in  temperature  indicates  fever,  i.  e.  inflammation.  A  rise  of 
six  degrees  is  dangerous  and  in  any  disease  a  rise  of  four  degrees  is  serious. 
On  the  other  hand  a  sudden  fall  below  normal  is  serious,  showing  loss  of 
the  animal  vitality,  and  if  not  quickly  corrected,  may  result  in  death. 
Always  sterilize  the  thermometer,  dipping  it  in  Conkey's  Nox-i-cide  Dip  and 
Disinfectant  solution,  before  using  it  on  the  next  animal. 

OTHER  TESTS  Breathing  is  another  test  of  an  animal's  condition.  A 
horse  breathes  irom  twelve  to  fifteen  times  a  minute 

when  in  health;  a  cow  from  ten  to  twenty-five  times;  a  dog  about  twenty 
times.  Rapid  breathing  may  be  caused  by  exercise,  heat  or  some  excite- 
ment. Also,  breathing  is  faster  after  eating  when  the  lungs  are  crowded  by 
the  digestive  organs.  But  these  are  all  healthy  conditions. 

Short,  rapid  or  labored  breathing  shows  disease  of  the  lungs.  Snoring 
shows  some  stoppage  of  the  air  passages  of  the  head;  or  snoring  may 
come  from  brain  disease,  and  is  often  noticeable  when  death  approaches. 
In  horses,  a  peculiar  double  contraction  and  expansion  of  the  abdomen 
shows  heaves.  Coughing  shows  obstruction  or  irritation  in  throat  or  lungs, 
and  may  be  of  two  kinds,  moist  or  dry.  The  latter,  the  "dry,  hacking 
cough,"  shows  some  irritation  of  throat  or  lungs,  while  the  moist  cough 
is  accompanied  by  mucous,  which  shows  an  unnatural  secretion  and  accumu- 
lation of  fluids  in  the  air  passages. 

Mucous  is  a  secretion  of  the  mucous  membrane,  the  peculiar  body 
"lining"  which  covers  all  openings  of  the  body,  lining  the  entire  alimentary 
canal  and  all  organs  where  air  may  enter.  Inspection  of  these  mucous  sur- 
faces aids  in  determining  the  animal's  condition.  If  red,  there  is  congestion 
of  blood  from  some  irritation;  if  pale,  weakness  from  impoverishment  of  the 
blood;  if  blue  or  gray  in  color  it  shows  the  blood  supply  lacks  oxygen;  if 
yellow  trouble  with  the  animal's  liver. 

Excretions  come  next.  The  natural  rejectment  of  the  body  is  in  solid 
feces  or  dung,  and  liquids  and  vapors,  especially  the  urine  and  perspira- 
tion. As  with  all  animal  life,  the  appearance  of  these  is  an  indication 
of  the  working  of  the  animal's  body  and  the  owner  should  know  the 
general  indications.  For  instance:  in  horse  dung  a  coating  of  mucous 
shows  intestinal  catarrh;  bloodiness,  inflammation;  paleness  and  foul  odor, 
a  torpid  liver;  in  fever  the  urine  is  scant  and  highly  colored.  When  a 
horse  has  azoturia  (excess  of  nitrogenous  matter)  the  urine  will  turn  to 
a  light  brown  and  later  to  a  dark  brown  color.  In  Texas  fever  or  south- 
ern cattle  fever  the  urine  is  red. 

Often  you  can  tell  a  sick  animal  from  its  position  and  action  of 
body.  An  animal  always  tries  to  place  itself  in  a  position  that  will 
relieve  any  pain  or  distress  of  body.  Note  this  carefully  as  it  will  help 
in  diagnosing  the  trouble.  Disturb  the  sick  animal  as  little  as  possible  and 
of  course  make  all  approach  to  it  quietly.  If  the  hair  stands  up 
the  animal  is  suffering  from  chill,  or  may  be  hidebound.  The  skin, 
if  harsh  and  hidebound,  shows  poor  nutrition,  though  the  trouble  may 


14 CONKEY'S  STOCK  BOOK 

be  with  the  food  or  with  the  animal's  own  digestive  system.  Watch 
the  appetite.  Look  out  for  any  signs  of  pain,  unusual  nervousness,  depres- 
sion, for  all  these  help  to  show  what  is  the  trouble. 

As  in  human  ailments,  the  nursing  and  care  of  the  sick  animal  is  of 
as  much  importance  as  the  actual  medicine.  Little  attention  is  paid  to 
it  usually,  simply  because  so  few  know  what  and  how  to  do.  The  medicine 
is  right  to  be  sure.  But  care  and  attention  must  go  with  it.  Naturally, 
the  best  caretaker  for  a  sick  animal  is  the  one  most  familiar  with  it;  for 
beside  being  more  soothing  to  the  sick  animal,  he  can  best  note  symptoms 
or  changes  that  in  many  cases  would  be  entirely  overlooked  by  a  stranger. 

The  logical  treatment  with  any  disease  is:  Find  the  cause  and  then  the 
cure.  The  cause  once  found,  remove  it  and  so  prevent  a  second  attack. 
Even  when  colic  in  horses  or  bloating  in  cattle  require  the  most  prompt 
attention,  look  for  the  cause  just  the  same.  The  cause  once  discovered, 
the  big  difficulty  in  curing  will  be  removed. 

SICK  ANIMALS    Sick    animals    should    be    separated    at    once   from    the 
others.     When  possible,  if  the  trouble   is  serious,  take 

the  well  animals  to  new  clean  quarters  where  there  is  no  chance  of  infec- 
tion. This  is  not  always  possible  in  crowded  stables,  so  the  use  of  a 
good  disinfectant  such  as  Conkey's  Nox-i-cide  Dip  and  Disinfectant  is 
necessary  to  make  the  old  quarters  pure  and  sanitary  again.  The  attendant 
should  also  use  Nox-i-cide  to  avoid  any  possible  infection  himself,  or  danger 
of  spreading  the  trouble  to  the  rest  of  the  stock. 

A  comfortable  box  stall  is  the  proper  accommodation  for  a  sick 
animal,  or  one  giving  birth  to  young.  It  is  surprising  so  few  box  stalls 
are  provided.  A  box  stall  should  be  placed  so  that  it  will  be  dry  and 
well  ventilated,  as  well  as  warm  in  winter  and  cool  in  summer  and  should 
be  kept  at  a  temperature  of  60-65°  F.  as  nearly  as  possible.  It  should  not 
be  less  than  10  x  12  feet  in  size.  It  should  be  strongly  made  and  smoothly 
ceiled  on  the  inside  walls  and  overhead,  to  admit  of  ready  disinfection. 
It  should  have  a  good  plank  floor,  as  dirt  or  paved  floors  are  liable  to 
be  cold  and  damp.  There  should  be  two  doors,  one  opening  into  the 
barn  and  another  into  a  level  yard,  and  they  should  not  be  opposite  one 
another  to  cause  draft.  The  doors  should  be  made  with  upper  and  lower 
halves,  and  should  close  and  should  be  wide  enough  to  carry  an  animal 
in  or  out  when  not  able  to  walk.  There  should  also  be  a  barred  window 
that  can  be  opened,  closed  or  darkened  as  desired.  In  one  corner  should 
be  a  movable  feed  box.  Strong  rings  should  be  provided  for  tying  and 
holding  the  head  up  for  drenching.  Strong  hooks  in  the  ceiling  will 
also  be  found  useful  if  it  is  ever  necessary  to  use  a  sling. 

In  caring  for  sick  animals,  the  quarters  should  be  kept  absolutely 
clean.  Nox-i-cide  in  the  wash  water  (1  to  100  parts  water)  will  be 
effective.  Occasionally  spraying  the  walls,  floors  and  ceiling  with  a  strong 
solution  will  be  necessary.  This  will  kill  all  germs  and  also  kill  bad 
odors  from  disease,  medicines,  etc. 

FOOD  FOR  The  food  for  sick  animals  is  as  important  as  the 

AILING  ANIMALS  medicine.  Keep  up  the  strength  for  resistance  to 
disease  by  careful  feeding  and  tempt  the  appe- 
tite. Easily  digested,  nutritious,  but  not  bulky  foods,  should  be  given. 
Laxative  foods  should  also  be  given  when  required.  Good  foods  for 
sick  animals  are  not  always  the  same  for  all  species,  but  they  may  be 
suggested  as  follows:  Freshly  cut  grass,  chopped  carrots,  chopped  apples, 


CARE  OF  LIVESTOCK 


15 


gruels,  milk  or  bran  mashes,  made  by  stirring  bran  into  boiling  water. 
These  may  sometimes  be  mixed  with  beaten  raw  eggs,  or  other  simple 
strengtheners  that  would  not  be  taken  alone.  Raw,  boiled  and  crushed 
oats,  and  bran,  can  be  made  up  in  various  ways  to  tempt  the  appetite,  and 
a  little  salt  dashed  with  Conkey's  Stock  Tonic  added  will  often  make 
food  acceptable  where  it  would  otherwise  be  refused.  Keep  the  feed  boxes, 
pails  and  utensils  in  an  absolutely  clean  condition.  Conkey's  Nox-i-cide  Dip 
and  Disinfectant  in  1  to  100  solution  makes  a  disinfectant  wash  water. 

BRAN  MASH  Bran  mash  is  excellent  for  all  live  stock,  as  it  is  easily 
digested  and  acts  as  a  gentle  laxative.  To  make  a  bran 
mash,  first  scald  out  the  pail,  fill  about  two-thirds  full  of  bran,  add  salt, 
and  pour  on  boiling  water  sufficient  to  make  a  thick  mass.  Never  make 
bran  mash  too  thin.  Stir  well  and  cover  tight  to  hold  the  steam.  Let 
stand  about  twenty  minutes,  or  until  cool  enough  for  the  animal  to  eat  it. 
It  should  be  given  warm  for  its  full  beneficial  effect.  Bran  mash  is  well 
liked  by  all  animals  and  makes  an  excellent  means  of  giving  medicines. 


DRENCHING 
A  HORSE 


This  is  a  simple  operation  provided  the  horse's  throat 
is  not  sore.  If  sore,  this  or  any  irritation  will  make  him 
cough  and  likely  cause  strangling.  Pinch  the  throat  first, 
and  if  the  animal  coughs  do  not  attempt  to  drench  it  but  give  an  electuary, 
that  is  a  mixture  of  medicine  and  molasses  or  honey,  which  can  be 
smeared  on  the  back  part  of  the  tongue  with  a  wooden  paddle  or  long 
handled  spoon.  It  will  dissolve  slowly  and  be  swallowed  with  the  saliva. 

But  to  drench  a  horse  proceed  as 
follows:  Make  a  small  loop  at  one 
end  of  a  piece  of  rope,  slip  it  over 
the  upper  jaw  behind  the  front 
teeth,  then  pass  the  other  end  of 
the  rope  over  a  beam  or  through 
rings  installed  for  the  purpose,  and 
gently  draw  up  the  head  to  a  con- 
venient level  for  operating.  Do  not 
draw  the  head  too  high  or  the 
horse  then  cannot  swallow — any 
more  than  you  can  when  your  head 
is  thrown  back.  Use  a  taper 
necked  bottle  or  a  drenching  horn, 
inserting  it  at  the  corner  of  the 
mouth  in  front  of  the  molars  and 
pouring  the  medicine  slowly  into 
the  cheek.  Take  time  and  pour 
slowly,  giving  the  horse  a  chance  to 
swallow.  Horses  sometimes  refuse 
to  swallow,  in  which  case  tickle  the 
roof  of  the  mouth  with  the  neck  of 
the  bottle.  Do  not  pull  the  tongue 
or  knead  or  pinch  the  throat,  al- 
though light  stroking  is  not  harm- 
ful. If  the  horse  coughs  let  down 
the  head  at  once,  lest  any  fluid  get 

down  the  windpipe  and  bring  on  pneumonia,  which  often  proves  fatal 
Never  drench  through  the  nose  for  this  is  not  only  cruel  but  dangerous;  and 
many  deaths  follow  the  barbarous  practice.  A  drop  or  two  of  medicine  can 
be  flicked  on  the  nostrils,  however,  and  will  usually  make  a  horse  swallow 
whether  he  wants  to  or  not. 


Getting  ready  to  drench  a  horse 


16  CONKEY'S   STOCK   BOOK 

DRENCHING  This    is    often    the    simplest    method    of    drenching, 

WITH  A  SYRINGE     especially   for   small   doses.     A   drench    should    sel- 
dom exceed  a  pint,  and  usually  it  can  be   given  in 

8  fluid  ounces.  Use  an  ordinary  hard  rubber  syringe  and  empty  the 
syringe  far  back  in  the  mouth.  Repeat  as  often  as  necessary  for  the  dose 
required. 

DRENCHING  It  is  perfectly  safe  to  drench  cattle,  provided  the  liquid 
CATTLE  is  poured  cautiously,  with  plenty  of  time  allowed  for 

swallowing.  Cattle  are  more  easily  drenched  than 
horses  for  the  simple  reason  that  they  cannot  refuse  to  swallow,  as 
horses  often  do — hence  there  is  not  so  much  danger  of  liquid  getting  into 
the  windpipe  or  lungs.  Raise  the  head  by  placing  thumb  and  forefinger  in 
the  nostrils,  lifting  the  head  high  enough  so  that  the  medicine  will  not  run 
out  of  the  mouth.  Let  an  assistant  hold  the  head  steady  by  the  horns 
or  the  ears.  A  taper  neck  bottle  is  all  right  for  the  purpose,  or  use  a 
regular  drenching  horn. 

DRENCHING  The  best  way  to  give  medicine  to  swine  is  in  the  feed. 
SWINE  If  a  sick  hog  won't  eat  you  can  give  a  drench,  if  first  you 

tie  up  the  animal,  with  a  slip  noose  over  the  upper  jaw. 
Don't  try  to  drench  while  he  is  squealing,  for  you  may  strangle  him.  Look 
out  that  he  don't  crunch  the  bottle  and  so  cut  his  mouth. 

DRENCHING  A  sheep  cannot  be  drenched  very  well  when  it  is  stand- 
SHEEP  ing  up,  as  some  of  the  liquid  is  almost  sure  to  get  into 

the  lungs.  Back  the  sheep  into  a  corner  on  its  rump; 
then  straddle  the  animal  so  that  you  can  steady  its  head  between  your 
knees  while  you  partly  open  the  mouth  and  pour  the  medicine  slowly  into 
the  right  corner  of  the  mouth.  Thus  there  is  no  danger  of  choking. 

GIVING  A  Medicine    is    often    worked   up   with    lard,   honey   or 

MEDICINE  BALL      molasses  into  a  cylindrical,  mass  less  than   1  inch  in 

diameter.      It   is    then    called   a   "bolus"    or   ball.      It 

should  never  weigh  more  than  1  ounce  or  be  more  than  3  inches  long. 
It  should  always  be  freshly  prepared,  never  hard  and  dry.  It  takes  a 
quiet  manner  and  quick  action  to  give  a  ball.  To  give  a  ball,  stand  in  front 
of  the  horse,  with  the  ball  in  three  fingers  of  the  right  hand,  then  grasp 
the  tongue  irith  the  left  hand,  pull  it  well  forward  with  the  tip  upward; 
then  insert  the  right  hand,  push  the  ball  or  pill  well  over  the  bulge  of  the 
tongue  to  the  back  of  the  root  of  the  tongue  and  quickly  withdraw  the 
hands.  Hold  the  head  in  a  natural  position  with  the  mouth  closed  and 
watch  the  neck  until  you  see  the  ball  pass  down  the  gullet.  Then  offer 
the  animal  a  drink  of  water.  Of  course,  do  not  give  a  ball  if  the  horse's 
throat  is  sore,  as  he  may  cough  it  up  in  the  nasal  cavity,  whence  it  may 
be  hard  to  dislodge. 

POULTICES  In  cases  where  heat  and  moisture  are  required,  as  in  case 
of  a  sprain,  bruise,  inflammation  or  congestion  or  inflam- 
mation of  any  sort,  the  best  way  of  obtaining  these  is  by  means  of  a 
poultice.  In  this  way  a  considerable  surface  can  be  covered  and  the 
heat  or  medication  can  be  applied  for  a  considerable  period  of  time. 
Bran,  flaxseed,  boiled  carrots,  etc.,  make  good  material  for  poultices.  The 
purpose  of  a  poultice  is  to  reduce  swelling,,  assist  in  absorption  and  allay 
pain.  To  do  this  it  must  be  applied  hot  and  be  kept  hot  as  a  large  part 
of  its  value  is  in  the  heat  thus  applied.  In  cases  where  there  is  a  dis- 


CARE   OF   LIVESTOCK 


17 


charge  of  pus  the  old  bandage  and,  poultice  material  should  be  burned 
so  as  to  prevent  infection.  A  poultice  should  be  changed,  or  freshened 
with  hot  water,  at  intervals  of  tw6"br  three  hours.  Mixing  a  poultice 
with  Conkey's  Nox-i-cide  Dip  and  Disinfectant  solution  instead  of  water,  pre- 
vents'^souring  and  also  makes  the  poultice  an  antiseptic  dressing.  The 
best  poultice  for  ordinary  veterinary  use  is  bran  mixed  to  a  paste  with 
Conkey's  Hoof  Remedy  according  to  simple  directions. 


Po  tfe  rn  J 


"Pooltiet  Boot-/ 

Pads  and  Poultices  as  adjusted— Pattern  for  a  "Many-Tail"  Bandage 

In  poulticing  the  foot  it  is  usually  most  convenient  to  use  a  poultice 
boot,  as  shown  in  the  cut.  This  is  simply  a  bag  of  stout  sack  cloth  or 
other  strong  cloth,  coming  up  high  enough  to  tie  above  the  fetlock.  It 
can  be  filled  with  the  poultice  material  and  applied  very  conveniently. 
For  throat,  leg  and  various  parts  of  the  body  the  most  useful  bandage  is 
what  is  called  the  many-tail  pattern,  which  is  simply  a  strip  of  cloth 
slashed  into  ends  convenient  for  tieing. 

FOMENTATIONS       These    are    local    applications    of    hot    water    from 
twenty  minutes  to  a  half  hour  at  a  time.     The  hot 

water  is  applied  as  hot  as  can  be  comfortably  borne,  and  the  temperature 
kept  up  by  adding  hot  water  as  it  cools.  Apply  with  sponges,  cloths,  or 
with  the  hands,  and  keep  up  a  gentle  rubbing  while  applying.  Two  or 
three  times  a  day  is  the  usual  rule.  Fomentations  are  generally  used  to 
relieve  acute  pain  and  swelling  from  rheumatism,  injuries,  and  other  irrita- 
tion. Cold  water  is  excellent  to  relieve  inflammation  and  congestion.  It 
can  be  applied  with  wet  cloths  or  the  part  can  be  irrigated  by  letting  cold 
water  drip  upon  it. 

HEALING  These  may  be  antiseptic  cleansing  lotions,  such  as  Nox-i-cide 
AGENTS  solution;  or  soothing  applications,  such  as  Conkey's  Pain 
Lotion;  or  salves  or  ointments,  such  as  Conkey's  Healing 
Salve;  or  astringent  dry  dressings,  such  as  Conkey's  Healing  Powder.  The 
important  thing  in  every  case  is  to  secure  asepsis,  that  is,  kill  the  germs 
of  infection,  so  that  the  cell-tissue  can  repair  itself  without  interference. 
If  there  is  much  pain  in  the  part  to  be  dressed,  Conkev's  Pain  Lotion 


CONKEY'S   STOCK   BOOK 

should  be  selected  as  the  healing  agent,  because  of  its  soothing  properties. 
Pain  Lotion  also  softens  the  parts,  as  does  Conkey's  Healing  Salve.  Salves 
should  be  used  purely  for  surface  treatment,  never  in  deep  cuts  or  sores, 
f  a  part  is  exposed  to  irritation  always  use  the  dry  dressing,  Conkey's 
Healing  Powder,  which  is  perfectly  antiseptic.  Many  surgeons  favor  dry 
healing  entirely. 

SHOO  FLIES!  Horses  and  cattle  should  be  protected  from  trouble- 
some flies,  not  only  from  the  standpoint  of  humanity 
but  because  it  is  unthrifty  abuse  of  stock  to  let  cattle  devote  good  energy 
to  swishing  flies  instead  of  grazing  and  producing  milk,  or  gains  in  beef. 
Similarly  horses  lose  flesh  and  spoil  in  spirit  when  exposed  to  the  torment 
of  flies.  It  is  a  waste  of  flesh,  animal  vigor  and  good  feed.  It  is  impossible 
to  over-estimate  the  torment  to  cattle  in  warm  weather  from  pestiferous 
flies;  and  the  loss  to  owners,  both  in  quality  and  amount  of  production. 

Conkey's  Fly  Knocker  abates  the  nuisance  and  keeps  the  flies  from 
annoying  stock.  It  is  a  positive  boon  to  dairymen  throughout  the  coun- 
try. It  keeps  the  dreadful  buffalo  fly,  or  gnat,  of  southern  sections  from 
accomplishing  its  purpose  and  cattlemen  in  these  sections  save  thousands 
of  dollars  annually,  simply  by  spraying  with  Fly  Knocker.  Wherever  used 
it  prevents  lice  and  grubs  on  cattle,  and  bots  on  horses,  from  egg  deposits 
of  the  gadfly.  Besides  this,  many  infectious  and  dangerous  diseases  are 
communicated  by  ordinary  flies  and  they  spread  infection  from  carion  and 
refuse  of  every  sort.  Prevention  is  the  watchword — use  Conkey's  Fly 
Knocker. 

BED  RIGHT  Often  too  little  attention  is  given  to  the  quality  of  bed- 
ding used  in  stables  and  barns.  Animals  should  be  well 
bedded  with  something  that  will  keep  them  clean  and  dry  and  give  them 
comfort  while  lying  down.  It  should  be  free  from  irritating  substances 
and  absorb  moisture  readily.  Straw,  coarse  hay,  fine  shavings  or  coarse 
sawdust  all  make  good  bedding.  When  straw  or  hay  bedding  is  used  see 
to  it  that  it  is  bright  and  clean,  free  from  mould  or  fungus  growth. 
Bedding  should  be  cleaned  out  each  morning.  The  cleanest  may  then  be 
dried  and  used  again,  and  the  balance  saved  with  the  manure. 

GETTING  MOST      Part  of  the  production  you  pay  for  as  owner  of  live- 

VALUE  OUT  OF      stock  is  manure.     One  of  the  tests  of  management  is 

MANURE  the  attention  you  give  to,  the  use  you  make  of  this. 

Managing  the  farm,  like  managing  a  factory,  calls  for 

thrifty  use  of  every  bi-product.  The  elements  in  manure  you  have 
paid  for  pound  by  pound  in  your  feed  bills.  These  elements  have  a  sound 
commercial  value,  but  rightly  used  they  have  even  more  value  on  your  own 
ground.  "Livestock  raising  is  the  soil's  salvation,"  is  the  slogan  of  today. 
That  fertilization  is  necessary  to  successful  farming  is  known  to  most 
farmers,  but  few  realize  the  importance  of  handling  farm  manure  so  as  to 
get  the  full  value  from  it.  The  manure  from  one  horse  or  cow  for  a  year 
is  said  to  be  worth  as  much  as  $25.00,  but  with  the  usual  methods  of  hand- 
ling, it  is  quite  safe  to  say  that  by  the  time  the  manure  reaches  the  land  it 
has  lost  half  its  original  value.  To  obtain  the  most  plant  food  value,  the 
manure  should  be  spread  on  the  ground  where  it  is  to  be  used  as  soon  as 
possible.  By  hauling  manure  to  the  fields  daily  there  is  practically  no  loss 
from  leaching,  that  is,  draining  or  washing  away.  It  should  be  spread  uni- 
formly over  the  land  and  not  piled  in  small  heaps,  which  is  wasteful  in 
fertilizing  material.  A  good  manure  spreader  will  soon  pay  for  itself  and 
should  be  on  every  farm.  They  are  not  only  a  great  saving  in  labor  but  bv 


CARE  OF  LIVESTOCK 19 

spreading  the  manure  uniformly  over  the  land  the  most  possible  good  is 
obtained.  If  manure  must  be  stored  it  should  be  kept  under  cover  if  possible 
and  on  a  tight  floor,  keeping  it  only  wet  enough  to  prevent  heating.  Where 
the  manure  must  be  accumulated  in  heaps  it  is  a  good  plan  to  sprinkle  a 
few  pounds  of  land  plaster  over  it  each  day  to  absorb  and  hold  the  ammonia 
until  the  soil  can  get  it.  Where  a  phosphate  fertilizer  is  to  be  applied  to 
the  soil  it  should  be  mixed  with  the  manure  at  the  rate  of  one  pound  of  rock 
phosphate  or  floats  per  day  for  each  animal.  This  should  be  mixed  with 
the  manure  as  it  is  taken  from  the  stable.  Some  caution  is  necessary  against 
the  use  of  wood  ashes  and  lime  with  manure  as  these  materials  produce  an 
alkaline  condition,  resulting  in  the  loss  of  ammonia,  which  carries  off  the 
nitrogen.  Lime  and  ashes  if  needed  for  the  soil  should  be  applied  other 
years  than  when  farm  manure  is  used.  Soils  differ  greatly,  so  do  their 
requirements;  and  it  is  well  to  have  a  knowledge  of  the  subject  for  the 
profits  of  the  farm  depend  largely  on  intelligent  fertilization  of  the  soil. 

The  following  table  of  manurial  values  is  given  in  a  bulletin  issued  by 
the  United  States  Department  of  Agriculture: 

Droppings  from  cows    $2.02  a  ton 

Droppings  from  calves    2.18  a  ton 

Droppings  from  horses    2.21  a  ton 

Droppings  from  pigs    3.20  a  ton 

Droppings  from  sheep    3.30  a  ton 

Droppings  from  hens   7.07  a  ton 

BETTER  Feeding  from  pastures  will  always  be  one  of  the  cheapest 
PASTURES  methods  of  feeding,  as  well  as  offering  enormous  other 
advantages  which  will  readily  occur  to  any  farmer.  But 
the  worth  of  any  pasture  depends  upon  the  kind  of  grass  of  which  it  is 
composed,  and  the  care  you  give  it.  Most  pasture  lots  in  this  country 
consist  of  one  kind  of  grass  only,  and  often  it  is  indifferent  in  quality. 
If  permanent  pastures,  they  are  frequently  grown  with  one  grass,  such 
as  Blue  grass  in  the  North,  or,  in  the  South,  Bermuda;  but  how  much 
better  is  a  mixed  permanent  pasture,  where  the  selected  best  grasses  for 
forage  are  grown  in  combination,  giving  variety,  and  furnishing  grazing 
at  all  stages  of  the  growing  season.  Unquestionably,  a  permanent  pas- 
ture of  the  highest  quality  and  one  from  which  the  stock  could  derive  a 
maximum  of  good,  would  be  composed  of  ^various  selected  grasses,  such 
as  Kentucky  Blue,  Russian  Brome,  Timothy 'and  Western  Rye. 
But  more  of  this  when  we  come  to  the  topic  of  feeding. 

WATERING  Side  by  side  with  pasturage  is  the  question  of  watering 
STOCK  stock.  Plenty  of  drinking  water  is  necessary  for  health 

or  full  production.  The  ideal  system  in  mild  weather  is 
watering  from  brooks  flowing  through  farms,  since  running  water  has  the 
advantage  of  purifying  itself  by  its  constant  exposure  to  the  atmosphere. 
On  the  other  hand  water  in  wells  close  to  barns,  manure  piles,  or  other- 
wise affected  by  surface  drainage,  is  sure  to  be  unclean  and  sooner  or 
later  will  be  the  source  of  disease.  Look  to  tire  water  supply.  If  the 
water  is  bad  the  animal  suffers. 

The  water  should  be  at  an  agreeable  temperature.  The  ice-bound 
drinking  trough  in  winter  is  one  great  cause  of  poor  production.  Thrifty 
farmers  warm  the  drinking  water  always.  Troublesome?  Yes — but  on 
general  principles  it  is  a  good  deal  cheaper  to  heat  the  water  on  a  stove 
than  in  the  stomachs  of  your  valuable  animals. 


20 CONKEV'S  STOCK  BOOK 

YOUR  Stable  management  is  entirely  too  important  a  matter  to 

HIRED  MAN  be  left  to  any  but  a  careful  supervisor.  If  men  are  hired 
for  stable  work  see  that  they  are  kind  as  well  as  capable. 
The  hired  man  has  not  the  self-interest  stimulus  which  usually  makes  the 
owner  a  good  caretaker,  but  see  that,  he  has  self -pride,  and  a  good  deal 
of  natural  love  for  dumb  animals,  tQ.take  its  place.  When  you  get  hold 
of  a  good  man — one  painstaking  injiis  work,  faithful  to  your  interests 
and  the  welfare  of  your  stock — treaCjiim  the  best  you  know  how,  for  it 
will  pay,  like  any  other  good  investm^t,  for  the  more  thrifty  management 
of  your  farm. 

RIGHT  FEEDING 
I.    The  Scientific  Theory 

HUNCH    your   shoulders   and   get   right    down   to    it.     You   have    here 
the  biggest  one  thing  in  managing  live   stock  for  profit.     Feed   for 
profit.     Most  anyone  can  feed  an  animal  so  it  won't  starve.     There  is 
neither  sense  nor  money  in  that.    The  problem  you  are  working  is,  how  and 
what  to  feed  for  biggest  possible  profit  in  the  animal's  production  with  the 
least  possible  cost. 

THE  WAY  Fifty  years  ago  you  didn't  have  to  bother — simply  went 
DAD  DID  ahead  with  the  feeding  and  fed  the  way  Dad  did.  Or,  if 
Dad  was  a  failure,  you  copied  your  most  successful  neigh- 
bor. It  was  the  only  way  you  could  do;  for  what  and  how  much  feed  to 
use  was  all  settled  by  experience.  There  was  no  science  about  it. 

Stock  raisers  knew,  from  looking  around  and  comparing  different  plans 
of  feeding,  just  about  what  they  might  expect  from  each  in  the  way  of 
energy,  production  and  thriving  condition.  Real  knowledge  of  the  subject 
was  in  no  man's  head;  and  there  was  no  short-cut  through  science,  which  is 
what  science  is  good  for  to  us  practical  farmers. 

THE  WAY  We've  a  short-cut  to  all  this  knowledge,  without  waste  of 
WE  DO  years  and  labor,  waste  of  live  stock  and  waste  of  production. 

We  know  that  foods  vary;  that  their  goodness  depends  on 
certain  necessary  elements,  which  we  call  nutritive  elements.  We  know  that 
not  one  of  these,  but  all  of  them  must  be  included  or  there  is  loss  of  energy, 
loss  of  production,  maybe  loss  of  the  animal;  and  that  always,  if  not  fed 
in  the  right  proportion  as  to  these  certain  elements,  the  feed  is  expensive. 

NOW  FOR  IT!  The  names  of  these  elements  are  so  important,  that 

THE  ELEMENTS     even  the  children  on  the  farm  ought  to  know  them. 

We  wish  all  the   names  were   one-syllable;   so  every 

boy  and  girl,  down  to  the  littlest  shaver,  could  repeat  them,  and  grow 
right  up  with  a  knowledge  of  their  importance.  Let  us  try  dividing  the 
big  ones;  and  maybe  that  boy  or  girl  of  yours  will  tackle  them  anyway, 
as  follows: 


Pro-te-in 

Car-bo-hy-drates 

Fat 

Ash  or  mineral 


Called  the  "nutritive  elements" 
or  "digestible  nutrients";  all 
necessary  to  feed  an  animal. 


Now:  every  single  food  for  dumb  animals  or  human  beings  must 
contain  some  one  or  more  of  these  digestible  nutrients;  and  usually  any 
given  food  will  contain  every  one  of  these  elements,  but  in  very  different 


RIGHT  FEEDING 21 

proportions.  For  instance,  you  hear  a  feeder  say  of  a  certain  feed  that 
it  is  "strong  in  protein"  but  lacks  mineral;  or  that  it  is  rich  in  fat,  but 
lacking  carbohydrates  (starch  and  sugar). 

ALL  ARE      Again:     Any  food  containing  one  or  more  of  these  elements, 
NEEDED       but   not   all,   must   be   combined   with   other   food   of   a   kind 
to   make   up   the   missing   element   or   elements.      For   in   the 
sum  total  of  feed  all  of  these  elements  must  be  included. 

NONE  MUST  Lastly:  To  be  economical,  the  feed  must  be  so  combined 
BE  WASTED  that  the  animal  gets  the  different  elements  in  the  right 
proportion.  Starvation  in  one  element  means  a  craving. 
The  animal  tries  to  meet  this  by  eating  more  heartily.  Bulk  of  other 
elements  will  not  satisfy  this  aching  void;  and  thus  there  is  a  waste  of 
feed,  waste  of  energy,  and  loss  of  production,  all  from  this  one  lack  of  some 
necessary  element. 

NATURE  Now    it's   just   as   well    to    remind    ourselves    at    the    start 

WASTEFUL  that  in  the  old  days  when  animals  were  kept  under  more 
natural  conditions  with  plenty  of  pasture,  each  could  pretty 
well  select  for  itself  what  it  needed  to  keep  up  the  chemical  balance  of 
nutritive  elements.  Appetite,  craving,  was  Nature's  guide;  and  with  rich 
pasture  the  animal  could  crop  here  and  there  until  every  essential  was 
provided.  Plainly  no  stockman  of  this  day  can  afford  to  turn  his  animals 
loose  on  rich,  virgin  pastures;  and  when  not  given  this  wide  natural  choice 
the  feeder  of  the  animals  must  be  science-wise  to  make  up  the  propel 
selection  for  them. 

SCIENCE  IS  Guess  we  all  agree  in  these  few  statements,  and  won't 
FRUGAL  make  any  holler  about  this  modern  idea  of  scientific  feed- 

ing. It  isn't  a  complicated  new-fangled  notion;  but  horse 
sense,  cow  sense,  sheep  sense,  hog  sense  all  put  into  man's  brain  so  he 
can  use  plain  common  sense  and  feed  his  animals  (1)  according  to  their 
need  and  (2)  what  he  expects  to  get  out  of  them  (3)  with  no  useless 
waste  of  these  elements. 

SIMPLER  Science  has  simplified,  not  complicated  things.  It  has  given 
TO  DO  us  rules  by  which  we  can  go  straight  ahead  and  get  the  big- 

gest gains  without  unnecessary  waste  in  the  actual  food  con- 
sumption. Another  thing,  this  modern  science  has  proved  how  necessary 
it  is  to  fit  each  ration  to  the  individual,  and  not  try  to  establish  a  standard 
for  a  whole  class  of  animals. 

GETTING  FOOD  It  isn't — we  know  it  isn't — the  food  in  its  crude 

VALUE  FROM  FEED    state   that   gives   nourishment   to   an   animal;   but 
the  soluble,  digestible  nutrients  contained  in  the 
crude  material.     In  other  words: 

The  actual  nourishment  has  to  be  in  solution. 

Water  must  therefore  be  supplied  the  animal  in  sufficient  quantity  to 
put  the  various  digestible  nutrients  of  the  food  in  solution. 

WHAT  THEY  DO      The  digestible   nutrients  we   carefully  named   above 
and  now  we  will  trace  each  and  see  what  becomes 
of  it,  as  follows: 


22 


CONKEY'S  STOCK   BOOK 


Protein — Makes  or  repairs  muscles,  tendons,  internal  organs,  skin,  also 
blood,  milk,  etc. 

Carbohydrates — These   (starch  and  sugar)   give  energy  and  heat. 

Fats — Give  energy  and  heat,  being  burned  up,  that  is  "oxydized"  in 
the  body.  If  in  excess  of  needed  amount,  the-  body  frugally  stores  it  up 
as  body-fat — between  tissues  and  in  layers,  over  parts,  as  a  reserve 
for  lean  hard  times. 

Ash  or  mineral — Make  bones,  teeth  and  all  such  hard  structures  of 
the  body. 

FOR  INSTANCE     Take  a  fat  calf  and  analyze  its  body.     You  will  find 
about  as  follows:  60.1%  water;  4.5  ash;   13.1   fat;   15.3 

protein;  with  contents  of  stomach  and  intestine   not  digested,  but  making 
up  a  balance  of  7%  of  the  total. 

Or,  take  a  sheep  as  estimated  by  H.  P.  Armsby's  percentage  table, 
which  we  express  graphically  as  follows: 


Ash       Protein 


Fat 


Water 


Undigested 
Matter 


LEAN 

3.4  / 

.5.*       /  Q.6  \                  56.6                   \    16.0 

W 

:LLFED 

3.3/    14  £      /   13.Z       \                53.7                    \155.O 

HA 

LFFAT 

32  / 

3.8    /     18.3          V          50.7                  \  14.0 

•A 

2..9/ 

a.£  /    2.8. 

\     44-.S                  \\Z.O 

VL 

IYFAT 

2.8/   ; 

../*/        37. 

2.                  \  39.0                   \10.0 

NATURE'S  BANK-    The  bony,  hard  structure  of  the  body  while  practically 

ING  SYSTEM  the  same  whether  an  animal  is  lean  or  fat  is  greater 

in    proportion    when    the    animal    is    poor    and    lean. 

But  the  one  most  interesting  thing  is  the  change  in  the  proportion  of 
fat  to  the  whole  make-up  of  the  animal's  body;  showing  how  this 
is  not  needed  for  the  work  or  repair  of  the  body,  so  long  as  the 
animal  continues  to  get  good  feed;  and  consequently  it  is  piled  up 
as  fat  wherever  the  body  can  find  a  place  to  store  it.  It  is  in  fact 
stored  just  as  the  camel  of  the  desert  stores  up  water,  as  a  reserve 
supply;  only  the  camel  tanks  up  this  water  in  a  kind  of  reservoir,  while 
fat  is  distributed  all  through  the  oody,  marbling  the  flesh,  as  butchers 
say,  or  surrounding  its  parts  with  layers  of  fatty  tissue.  Now,  suppose 
something  happens  to  this  fat  animal,  whether  it  is  disease  or  neglect 
or  any  hardship  so  that  the  body  does  not  get  the  proper  food  or  is  not 
in  condition  to  digest  and  make  use  of  it.  The  animal  grows  lean  and 
poor,  you  say.  The  truth  is,  for  a  long,  long  time  the  body,  keeps  up 
by  living  on  itself,  feeding  on  its  reserve  nourishment  in  the  fatty  tiss.ues. 
If  the  animal  has  been  over-fat,  there  will  be  a  real  sense  of  improvement 
in  feeling  as  this  over-fat  decreases;  that  is,  the  animal  will  feel  more 
bodily  vigor,  more  energy.  In  the  case  of  a  horse  this  is  important .  as 
he  is  valued  for  the  work  we  can  get  out  of  him,  rather  than  for  ornamental 
appearance  or  butchering  weight;  but  with  animals  fed  for  meat  produc- 
tion, it  is  this  fattened  condition  we  are  after.  The  point,  however,  to 
keep  in  mind  is  this: 

Over-fat  is  not  a  condition  of  true  health  in  nature. 

If   you    are    demanding   this    over-fat    condition,   you    must    counteract 
the  dangers  of  it.     You  must  combat  nature. 

Just  how  to  do  it  will  be  outlined  later. 


RIGHT  FEEDING 23 

WHAT  IS  A  MAIN-         Protein,  carbohydrates,  fat  and  ash,  as  explained 

TENANCE  RATION?     above,  must  all  be  combined  in  the  feed  to  keep 

the    animal    alive    in    normal,    healthy    condition. 

When  the  food  has  all  these  necessary  elements  in  due  proportion,  it  actually 
feeds  the  animal,  i.  e.,  maintains  good  healthy  condition.  When  this  food, 
containing  all  needed  elements,  is  supplied  in  just  the  quantity  needed  from 
day  to  day,  we  call  it  a  "maintenance  ration."  This  means,  the  ration  main- 
tains the  animal,  that  is,  it  is  sufficient  for  comfort  and  repair  of  waste,  for 
24  hours,  but  gives  no  margin  for  new  growth  or  production. 

WHAT  IS  A  When  the  food,  containing  all  these  necessary 

BALANCED  RATION?  elements,  is  sufficient  for  the  animal's  needs  and 

in  addition  is  sufficient  for  all  we  want  that 

animal  to  do;  and  moreover  is  so  combined  or  proportioned  that  there  is 
no  excess  of  any  one  or  more  of  the  needed  elements  so  that  all  is  used  and 
nothing  wasted,  the  food  is  then  called  a  "balanced  ration." 

A  balanced  ration  takes  for  granted  a  good,  liberal  supply  of  growth, 
development,  or  any  other  energy  required  of  the  animal.  A  maintenance 
ration  just  gives  enough  for  the  animal's  own  needs,  with  nothing  over  for 
new  growth  or  new  energy.  It  is  plain  to  see  that  there  is  no  money  in 
feeding  just  a  maintenance  ration.  It  is  simply  humane,  and  keeps  the 
animal  in  comfort  from  day  to  day,  with  nothing  over  for  the  owner's 
profit. 

For  instance: 


I  To  maintain  existence I  To  produce  for  profit 

This   line  represents   a  "maintenance   ration"  or  "half  ration,"  keepi: 
e  animal  in  health,  but  with  no  margin  over. 

To  maintain  existence |  To  produce  for  profit  | j 


This  line  represents  the  maintenance  ration  plus  an  allowance  for,  let 
us  say,  milk  production  for  the  owner's  profit.  In  this  case  it  is  a  "three- 
quarters  ration." 

I To  maintain  existence j To  produce  for  profit | 

This  line  represents  the  maintenance  ration  plus  an  allowance  for  ALL 
the  animal  CAN  BE  MADE  TO  YIELD  FOR  THE  OWNER'S  PROFIT. 
It  is  a  FULL  PRODUCTION  RATION. 

Profit  depends  on  what  you  feed  ABOVE  the  mere  MAINTENANCE 
RATION  up  to  this  limit  of  full  production. 

And  this  is  not  all  clear  profit  either:  You  will  see  that  your  security 
against  actual  loss  for  the  keep  of  the  animal  depends  on  your  feeding 
more  than  maintenance  ration;  for  the  animal  must  pay  you  back  for  board 
and  care,  and  in  addition  turn  you  a  good  profit  on  the  money  invested. 

We  have  seen  how  under  natural  conditions  each  animal  must  graze 
and  graze  until  all  the  needed  elements  are  secured  for  this  "balanced" 
ration.  The  domesticated  animal  has  no  such  chance;  but  must  take  what 
it  gets  from  its  feeder.  In  other  words,  every  animal  must  depend  on 
the  "balanced"  judgment  of  its  owner.  Hence  we  say,  in  all  this  question 
of  feeding,  a  balanced  ration  is  good;  but  a  balanced  judgment  is  better. 

Now,  again,  clearly  the  natural  grazing  animal  had  no  one  crowding 
it  on  for  production;  so  of  course,  with  good  maintenance  ration,  it  had 


24     CONKEY'S  STOCK  BOOK 

a  digestion  in  full  working  order.  Each  nourishing  element  was  promptly 
put  in  solution  by  the  juices  of  the  body,  and  so  absorbed  by  the  hungry 
tissues.  If  the  animal  took  more  of  any  element  than  the  tissue  had  power 
to  absorb,  then  that  extra  was  all  wasted.  Chemists  speak  of  "saturate 
solutions,"  meaning  of  course,  that  as  much  is  dissolved  as  will  dissolve, — 
for  instance,  boracic  crystals  in  hot  water.  The  rest  is  all  waste,  since 
it  cannot  get  into  the  solution.  But  it  does  for  the  time  being  clog  the 
system;  just  as  the  excess  of  boracic  crystals  crowd  down  to  the  bottom 
of  the  vessel  which  holds  the  ''saturate"  boracic  solution. 

Any  element  that  clogs  the  system,  i.  e.,  can  not  be  put  in  solution,  is 
a  wasted  element  in  the  system  of  feeding. 

It  not  only  wastes  itself,  and  is  a  needless  expense  for  that  element; 
but  it  taxes  the  energy  of  the  animal  just  that  much  to  get  it,  and  then  to 
get  rid  of  it. 

With  the  natural  grazing  animal  this  waste  all  came  back  to  the  land, 
anyway;  so  nature  didn't  care  how  wasteful  or  extravagant  her  system 
might  be. 

"NOTHING  WASTED?"      Nature  never  stops  to  think  about  waste.    She 

is  a  simple-minded  old  dame;  and  says  curtly 

it  all  stays  in  the  universe,  so  "nothing  is  wasted."  She  never  thinks  of 
the  waste  in  time  and  energy,  which  mounts  up  so  rapidly. 

FIGHTING  NATURE  The  man  who  pays  for  feed,  does  care.  He's 
downright  glad  to  know  all  there  is  to  know  on 
this  mighty  important  subject  of  "balanced"  rations. 

Since  a  poor  ration  all  digested  (i.  e.,  put  in  solution  so  the  body 
sponges  can  take  it  up)  is  better  than  the  best  of  all  possible  rations  not 
all  digested  but  wasted;  the  keen  man  holds  one  eye  in  suspicion  on  old 
Nature,  and  with  the  other  keeps  watch  of  the  animal's  digestive  ability. 
He's  in  the  race  for  profitable  production.  He  knows  it's  a  fight  "agin 
nature."  It's  a  race  with  her — sometimes  with  a  farm  mortgage  as  the 
wager.  But  it  is  a  race  the  stock  owner  can  win — with  energy  and 
Conkey's  assistance. 

Why  Conkey?  Because  in  full  95%  of  all  cases,  the  hard  pushed 
domestic  animal  must  at  times  have  digestive  assistance,  But  more  about 
Ihis  in  the  proper  place  later. 

HAVE  YOU  ANY  HOLE  So  we  see  just  how  it  is  that  a  food  too  high 
IN  YOUR  POCKET?  in  one  element,  protein  for  instance,  and  low 

in  others  will  be  fed  at  a  loss.  Protein  hap- 
pens to  be  the  most  expensive  element;  but  the  facts  would  be  the  same 
if  the  excess  happened  to  be  carbohydrates  (starch  and  sugar,  which 
furnish  body  fat  and  heat)  or  ash  (which  furnishes  bone).  Any  one  of 
these  fed  in  excess  of  the  animal's  digestive  capacity,  i.  e.,  power  to  put 
in  solution  and  absorb  in  solution,  is  wasted,  and  makes  a  hole  in  the 
owner's  pocket.  Protein  is  the  element  we  are  most  careful  not  to  feed 
in  excess;  because  it  is  expensive,  and  makes  the  biggest  hole  in  the 
pocket. 

A  ration  must  be  not  only  balanced,  but  economical. 

WHAT    IS  You   balance    a    ration    according   to   what   you   want 

THE  PRODUCT?      to   get    out    of   it — horsepower,    dairy   products,   baby 

beef,    mutton    or    bacon.      Food    too    high    in    protein 

will  produce  muscle  at  the  expense  of  fat;  too  high  in  carbohydrates  will 


RIGHT  FEEDING 25 

make  too  much  fat  and  little  meat;  too  high  in  mineral  or  ash  will  make 
the  animal  rangy,  with  a  gangling  or  heavy  bone  structure,  in  each  case 
wasteful. 

So  you  see  it  takes  a  long  head  and  ''balanced"  judgment  to  be  a 
profitable  feeder.  But  as  a  scientific  problem  it  is  pretty  simple  to  work 
out,  isn't  it?  And  think  of  the  difference  in  profit  when  you  feed  for  what 
you  want  to  get,  get  all  you  ought  to  have,  and  waste  nothing  over! 

HAVE  YOU  A  LONG  It  takes  a  long  pocket-book — one  long  and 
POCKET-BOOK?  wide  and  deep — to  let  the  feeding  problem  take 

care  of  itself,  without  regard  to  cost  and  profits. 

Stick  to  the  balanced  ration.  Temper  it  with  balanced  judgment,  and 
remember  that  practical  feeding  (just  as  with  practical  breeding)  can 
never  be  an  exact  science;  and  no  real  scientist  claims  that.  Good  judg- 
ment— your  own — must  moderate  any  working  rule  anywhere  suggested. 

TURN  TO  THE       All    this    talk   has    been    about    protein,    carbohydrates, 

TABLE  fat  and  ash;  because  it's  the  protein,  carbohydrates,  fat 

and    ash    that    you    actually    feed — whether    in    form 

of  corn,  wheat,  oats,  roots  or  hay.  But  to  figure  out  a  ration  you'll  have 
to  work  from  a  table  of  values  of  common  feeds  such  as  are  given  on  pages 
29  and  30.  So  better  put  a  mark  there  and  turn  back  to  it  whenever  you 
have  need  for  reference. 

SELECTING  Choose  the  feed  for  what  you  want  to  get  out  of  it. 
THE  RATION  The  growing  or  hard  working  animal,  or  one  under  pres- 
sure of  breeding,  or  of  milk  production,  needs  what 
is  called  a  "narrow"  ration;  meaning  a  large  proportion  of  digestible 
protein.  Idle  full-grown  animals  need  less  of  this  protein  and  a  larger 
proportion  of  carbohydrates,  or  what  is  called  a  "wide"  ration.  Any  animal 
needs  enough  of  this  protein  element  in  its  feed  to  replace  the  daily  loss 
of  tissue,  and  make  new  growth  of  hair,  hoofs,  etc. 

A  NEGLECTED       The    mineral    or   ash    element   is    one    often    neglected 

ELEMENT  after  an  animal  is  grown.    Mineral  or  ash  is  needed  not 

only    in    the    bone,    but    as    a    necessary    element    of 

various  parts  of  the  body.  If  at  any  time  tjie  food  does  not  supply  what 
is  needed  of  this  element,  lime,  phosphate,  etc.,  the  tissues  actually  take 
it  from  the  bone  substance  itself.  The  frame  of  the  animal  becomes  brittle 
and  "soft"  from  lack  of  mineral.  Fractures  and  such  accidents  are  likely 
to  occur;  the  owner  often  wondering  what  could  have  caused  them.  Animals 
with  young  especially  need  this  mineral  substance  for  the  bony  structure 
of  the  offspring's  body.  If  it  isn't  supplied  in  the  feed,  nature  will  get  it 
from  the  parent  animal's  body.  The  bones  of  the  mother  will  actually  be 
robbed  for  what  is  needed  by  the  young  animal's  growing  body.  This  is 
nature's  way.  She  gets  even.  In  the  same  way  if  the  daily  ration  does 
not  provide  the  other  nutritive  elements  needed,  the  poor  animal  simply 
draws  from  its  own  fat  tissues,  and  thus  feeds  on  its  own  body  for  main- 
tenance, or  for  the  growth  of  the  offspring. 

WHAT  IS  A  In  books  on  feeding,  in  farm  papers,  etc.,  you 

"NUTRITIVE  RATIO"?     will    often    come    to    this     term,    the    "nutritive 

ratio;"   and  we   should   make   sure   that  we   all 

know  just  what  it  means  without  merely  getting  along  with  a  guess  or 
two  at  it.  We  spoke  above  of  the  proportion  of  protein  to  carbohydrates, 


26  _  _  _  CONKEY'S   STOCK  BOOK 

etc.,  in  a  feed.  This  proportion  of  protein  is  what  fixes  the  nutritive  ratio. 
Thus  the  "nutritive  ratio"  of  a  certain  ration  might  be  written,  1  :6,  which 
we  read  1  to  6,  and  which  could  just  as  well  be  written  in  a  fractional 
form  y$,  meaning  that  in  this  particular  ration  the  protein  was  l/f>  of  the 
ration.  The  other  ^  would  be  the  combined  carbohydrates  and  fats.  For 
instance,  starch,  sugar  and  fibre  of  stalks,  etc.,  would  be  the  fats.  It  is  a 
"narrow"  or  "wide"  ration  according  to  whether  there  is  more  or  less  of 
the  protein,  the  "narrow"  ration  meaning  a  large  proportion  of  protein  in 
comparison  with  the  total  carbohydrates  and  fat. 

So  you  see,  in  any  question  of  feeding,  you  work  out  a  "balanced" 
ration,  making  it  wide  or  narrow  according  to  the  result  you  want  in 
production.  Now  we  come  to  the  big  principle  of  getting  not  only  a 
"balanced"  but  an  economical  ration. 

CHEAPER  FEEDS    Often,  by  a  little  practical  looking  around,  a  ration 
can  be  balanced  just  as  well  out  of  home-grown  and 

near-by  less  expensive  feeds,  and  so  save  fully  50%  of  the  owner's  cost  for 
feeding. 

Suppose,  for  instance,  a  stockman  is  some  distance  away  from  both 
oats  and  timothy  crops:  Let  him  look  around;  it  is  more  than  probable 
he  can  substitute  a  number  of  cheaper,  more  convenient  home-grown  feedst 
which  he  can  use  to  just  as  good  advantage. 

WHAT  IS  ECONOMY?  This  looking  around  for  cheaper,  more  con- 

venient products  is  one-half  of  the  problem: 

"How  to  economize  in  feeding."  The  other  half  is  the  question  of  waste, 
already  indicated;  and  it  is  certainly  a  big  half  in  economically  balancing 
a  ration.  Without  proper  knowledge  of  the  elements  to  be  properly  bal- 
anced, a  farmer  might  feed  timothy  or  any  ordinary  hay  along  with  corn, 
which  would  certainly  be  wasteful.  These  two  feeds  belong  to  the  same 
class.  To  get  the  necessary  quantity  of  digestible  protein  in  a  ration,  say, 
of  15  Ibs.  of  corn,  with  timothy  hay,  as  much  as  36  Ibs.  of  the  hay  would 
have  to  be  used,  which  is  absurd  on  the  face  of  it.  No  work  animal  could 
consume  this  amount  in  a  day;  moreover,  there  would  be  a  waste  of  14  Ibs. 
of  carbohydrates  over  what  the  animal  needed,  which  would  mean  over- 
taxing the  animal's  organs,  and  an  endless  chain  of  -complicated  trouble. 
But,  if  with  the  15  Ibs.  of  corn,  alfalfa  hay  was  combined,  10  Ibs.  would  be 
all  that  was  needed,  making  a  well-balanced  ration,  supplying  everything 
needed,  and  doing  it  all  economically  in  cost  to  the  owner  and  ease  to  the 
animal's  digestive  system.  The  trouble  here  was  that  corn  and  timothy 
hay,  being  both  of  them  grasses  (Gramineae),  were  both  rich  in  carbo- 
hydrates but  poor  in  protein.  Alfalfa,  being  a  legume  or  pod  bearing  crop, 
is  rich  in  protein,  however,  and  thus  capitally  filled  in  the  deficiency  of 
the  corn  ration. 

It  all  sounds  wordy,  but  it  isn't  hard  to  understand.  We  know  it  in 
theory  already.  Do  we  always  put  this  knowledge  into  practice? 

Even  suppose  you  do,  and  I  do  —  still  the  average  man  doesn't  fully 
think  out  his  feeding  rations  and  suit  each  one  of  them  to  the  animal's 
requirements. 


300  X  100  X  15^c  =  ?    For  instance,  we  know,  in  a  certain  Southern  section, 
a  100-mule  place  where  they  feed  on  oats  and  hay. 

But  they  could  select  other  foods,  easier  to  get  in  that  section  and  cheaper, 
and  could  balance  them  into  a  combination,  say  molasses,  corn-and-cob 
meal,  cotton-seed  meal  and  hay,  which  would  make  a  saving  on  each 


RIGHT  FEEDING 27 

animal  of  15j^c  a  day.  This  cheaper  feed  would  have  just  as  good  food 
value,  mind  you. 

Figure  what  this  saving  would  come  to — 100  times  15^c  per  day.  By 
the  time  you  multiply  this  amount  by  the  300  full  working  ration  days  in 
the  year,  you  have  something  to  show  for  it,  haven't  you?  Does  scientific 
feeding  pay? 

PLEASING  Let  us  stick  to  this  same  illustration:    adding  molasses 

THE  PALATE      in   this   ration   supplies,   you   say,  the   sugar   needed;   but 
in  fact  it  does  a  great  deal  more — it  makes  the  mixture 
palatable. 

Palatability  is  a  sort  of  food  insurance,  or  assurance.  If  palatable, 
more  food  is  eaten,  and  it  is  better  digested.  Never  forget  this. 

"SEASONING"  Often  there  are  cheap,  easy-to-get  feeds  on  the  place  but 
such  as  the  animal  doesn't  seem  to  relish.  Did  you  ever 
try  seasoning  such  a  ration — either  mixing  up  the  unpopular  but  whole- 
some part  along  with  the  best  liked  part  of  the  ration;  or  else  just  using 
our  convenient  appetizer,  Conkey's  Stock  Tonic?  Digestion  starts  right  if 
a  food  is  palatable.  At  the  signal  of  the  palate  the  mouth  "waters"  we 
say,  meaning  that  the  salivary  glands  respond.  A  man  or  animal  that 
doesn't  relish  his  proper  food  is  just  sounding  the  honk,  honk  horn  for 
trouble. 

A  food  may  balance  all  right  and  still  not  suit  the  animal's  notion. 
Don't  reject  it  but  combine  it  with  the  Stock  Tonic  in  the  small  doses 
suggested  on  the  package;  when  it  will  make  the  food  more  likable  and 
act  as  a  general  conditioner,  without  strong  medicinal  effect,  on  account 
of  the  small  quantity  used. 

Remember  again:  IT  ISN'T  THE  FOOD  IN  ITS  CRUDE  STATE 
THAT  NOURISHES.  IT  IS  WHAT  THE  DIGESTIVE  PROCESSES 
GET  OUT  OF  IT.  The  animal  must  chew  thoroughly,  digest  fully,  so  that 
the  nutritive  elements  we  have  been  talking  about  become  soluble  and  can 
be  taken  up  by  the  tissues.  Stock  Tonic  when  used  in  the  amount  indicated 
for  a  conditioner,  gives  palatability  to  food;  and  thus  the  necessary  elements 
in  the  ration  are  put  in  solution  by  the  digestive  juices  which  appetite  excites 
to  secretion. 

UNDIGESTED  WASTE      We  first  discussed  the  kind  and  amount  of  food 

taken.    We  see  now  there  is  this  added  element 

— how  much  the  animal  can  get  out  of  it.  By  actual  test  5^4  Ibs.  of  crude 
fibre  produced  more  than  2->4  Ibs.  of  waste  or  excrement-^only  a  little  over 
half  of  it  was  digested.  Some  authorities  claim  that  full  digestibility  is 
secured  (approximately)  only  when  the  proportion  is  as  follows: 

Cattle 

1  part  digestible  crude  protein  to  8  parts  digestible  carbohydrates 

and  fat.     Nutritive  ratio,  1:8. 
Sheep 

1  part  digestible  crude  protein  to  12  parts  digestible  carbohydrates 

and  fat.     Nutritive  ratio,  1:12. 

ANIMALS  Animals   make    quite    a    different   use    of   their   feed; 

AND   PRODUCTS    and  according  to  Prof.  Henry,*  the  cow  leads  all  farm 

animals  in   ability   to   convert   crops   into   marketable 

products,  with  other  livestock — the  pig,  fowl,  steer  and  sheep— in  the  order 

*Henry's  "Feeds  and  Feeding." 


28 CONKEY'S   STOCK   BOOK 

given.  But,  in  fairness  to  the  sheep,  note,  this  does  not  make  any  allow- 
ance for  the  mutton  animal's  side  line  of  wool  for  profit.  The  horse  has 
naturally  less  digestive  capacity,  or  rather  ability,  than  the  cud-chewing 
animals.  For  instance,  compare  as  follows: 

The  horse  in  comparison  with  the  sheep  gets: 
1/2  the  utility  of  straw. 
3/4     "        "        "    hay. 
9/10     "        "        "    clover  or  alfalfa. 
10/10     "         "         "    concentrates,  oats,  etc. 

The  choice  of  a  ration  depends  both  on  the  kind  of  animal  to  be  fed 
and  the  kind  of  production  desired.  We  usually  estimate  10  Ibs.  of  dry 
matter  to  make  a  pound  of  beef;  but  30  Ibs.  of  dry  matter  to  make  a  pound 
of  butter. 

A  "BALANCED   RATION"     Now  sum  up,  and  see  what  we   come   to: 

A  balanced  ration  must  be  balanced   right 

for: 

(1)  The  animal  to  be  fed, 

(2)  The  product  fed  for, 

(3)  Chemical  elements, 

(4)  Total  weight  of  food, 

(5)  Total  bulk  of  food, 

(6)  Palatability,  digestibility. 

PALATABILITY —  Palatability  and  digestibility  are  close  kin  in  feeding; 
DIGESTIBILITY  still  they  aren't  twins,  and  we  mustn't  confuse  them. 
In  a  few  special  cases,  palatability  lessens  digesti- 
bility; for  instance,  cooking  rather  lessens  digestibility  of  food  for  live- 
stock, though  making  more  palatable.  (Potatoes  and  such  starchy  tubers 
are  the  exception  to  this  fact.  They  are  much  better  for  livestock  when 
cooked.)  Grinding  increases  both  palatability  and  digestibility,  making  the 
food  more  available,  so  that  digestion  can  start  at  once  with  the  saliva  in 
the  animal's  mouth.  However,  if  this  grinding  costs  more  than  10%  of  the 
value  of  the  grain,  the  advantage  is  too  expensive  to  be  very  practical. 

VARIETY  Palatability  has  in  it  another  important  element — variety. 

IN  FEEDING  Animals  thrive  where  feeds  are  changed  from  time  to 
time,  so  that  they  get  proper  variety.  In  other  words, 
after  a  certain  time  food  loses  by  sameness  some  of  its  palatability.  On 
the  other  hand,  up  to  a  certain  point  food  gains  by  habit  or.  custom;  for 
there  are  many  instances  where  feeds  were  not  relished  when  newly  intro- 
duced to  livestock,  but  later  on  proved  very  acceptable  when  the  stock  got 
used  to  them — rape,  for  instance,  which  is  now  so  relished  by  sheep  on 
western  ranges.  Of  course  no  change  must  be  sudden.  The  animal  must 
be  accustomed  gradually  to  the  change,  or  digestive  troubles  will  follow. 

CONTENTED       Fright  of  any  kind  checks  the  digestive  operation. 
MIND  A  "contented  mind  is  a  continual  feast." 

Kindness  to  animals  greatly  aids  digestion. 
These  are  scientific  conclusions. 


RIGHT   FEEDING 


29 


Average  Digestible  Nutrients  and  Fertilizing  Elements  in  Common  Feeds 


Dry 
matter 
in  100 
Ibs. 

KIND  OF  FEED 

DIGESTIBLE  NUTRIENTS 
IN  100  LBS. 

FERTILIZING  CONSTI- 
TUENTS IN  1  TON 

Pro- 
tein 

Carbo- 
hy- 
drates 

Fat 

Total 
with 
fat  x  2  1-4 

Nitrogen 

Phos- 
phoric 
Acid 

Potash 

Lbs. 

28.2 
20.0 
25.0 
10.2 
25.2 
19.1 
20.0 
29.2 
16.4 
20.7 
28.9 
34.9 
20.3 
20.0 
20.6 
24.9 
9.9 

93.2 
92.9 
86.0 
903 
84.7 
59.5 
89.5 
85.7 
89.8 
88.4 
86.0 
86.0 
90.0 
89.5 
90.8 
91.1 
94.2 
86.8 
85.8 
88.7 
90.0 

85.8 
90.8 
92.9 
90.4 

27.5 
15.0 
29.7 
26.4 
26.3 
21.0 
20.7 
23.2 
28.0 
23.9 

11.5 
13.5 
9.1 

Green  Fodders 

Alfalfa  
Barley  and  Peas      .   . 
Barnyard  millet      .   . 
Beet  pulp,  wet  . 

Lbs. 
3.6 
2.1 
1.6 
0.5 
2.6 
2.4 
2.0 
2.9 
1.8 
1.0 
2.0 
2.8 
1.8 
2.5 
0.6 
31 
0.9 

11.1 
6.4 
4.4 
8.4 
7.1 
1.4 
5.8 
4.8 
2.9 
2.4 
5.0 
4.7 
8.0 
7.6 
3.0 
4.8 
2.5 
2.8 
4.9 
11.9 
3.2 

0.9 
1.3 
0.7 
0.8 

3.0 
0.7 
4.6 
1.4 
1.1 
0.3 
1.5 
2.1 
1.5 
0.1 

1.2 
1.3 
1.0 

Lbs. 
12.1 
9.1 
14.4 
7.7 
11.4 
9.1 
9.1 
14.9 
8.7 
11.9 
15.9 
19.7 
10.2 
10.1 
11.6 
11.0 
4.9 

39.1 
44.9 
40.2 
39.7 
37.8 
31.2 
39.3 
35.8 
45.6 
29.9 
46.9 
36.7 
41.0 
36.8 
42.9 
46.9 
44.3 
42.4 
40.1 
40.7 
45.7 

40.1 
39.5 
39.6 
35.2 

8.5 
9.6 
11.5 
14.2 
14.9 
11.9 
8.6 
13.1 
9.2 
13.5 

7.9 
9.8 
5.5 

Lbs. 
04 
0.4 
0.3 

05 
0.5 
0.2 
07 
0.2 
0.4 
0.4 
0.8 
0.4 
0.5 
03 
0.5 
0.2 

0.6 
1.6 
07 
.1 
1.8 
07 
.3 
.0 
0.8 
0.9 
.1 
.7 
.7 
.5 
.6 
.0 
09 
3 
.5 
.6 
1.9 

0.6 
0.8 
0.4 
0.4 

1.9 
0.5 
1.8 
0.7 
0.7 
0.6 
0.9 
0.8 
0.5 
0.2 

0.1 
0.1 
0.2 

Lbs. 
16.6 
12.1 
16.7 
8.2 
15.1 
12.6 
11.5 
194 
10.9 
13.8 
18.8 
24.3 
12.9 
13.7 
12.9 
15.2 
6.2 

52.2 
54.9 
46.2 
50.6 
49.0 
34.2 
48.1 
418 
50.3 
343 
544 
45.2 
52.8 
47.8 
49.5 
53.9 
48.8 
48.1 
48.9 
56.2 
53.2 

42.3 

42.6 
41.2 
37.0 

15.8 
11.4 
20.1 
17.2 
17.6 
13.5 
12.1 
17.0 
11.7 
14.0 

9.3 
11.3 
6.9 

Lbs. 
15.4 
9.0 
7.6 
2.8 
12.4 
10.0 
9.6 
14.0 
7.6 
5.8 
10.0 
13.3 
7.6 
10.2 
4.2 
12.8 
4.4 

49.4 
34.2 
25.0 
41.0 
39.4 
12.2 
28.6 

23 

28.4 
37.6 
33.0 
9.9 
25.2 

18.8 
28.6 
54.4 

14.0 
11.6 
10.0 
10.0 

3.8 
20.2 
8.6 
7.0 
4.6 
8.6 
9.0 
13.4 
2.6 

4.8 
5.8 

4.4 

Lbs. 
2.6 

2.2 
0.6 
2.2 
2.4 

3.0 
2.6 
2.2 
2.4 

3.0 
5.2 
1.4 
2.8 
1.2 

12.2 

8.0 
10.0 
11.0 
7.6 
10.4 

13.4 
11.0 
12.2 

7.2 

6.6 
8.3 
19.4 

4.0 
6.0 
5.0 
4.4 

3.0 
8.4 
2.2 

3.0 
3.0 

1.6 
1.6 
1.8 

Lbs. 
11.1 

11.6 

22.8 
4.0 
8.0 

9.6 
9.2 
7.8 
8.4 

10.0 

14.8 
6.8 
11.2 
18.4 

35.8 

31.4 

27.8 
37.4 
21.8 
29.4 

50.8 
21.6 
36.2 

20.4 

28.4 
32.9 
48.8 

21.2 
35.4 
17.2 
12.6 

8.0 
1.0 

7.4 

9.2 
3.8 

9.6 
7.4 
7.6 

Clover,  Alsike  .... 
Clover,  Crimson      .   . 
Clover,  Mammoth  .   . 
Clover,  Red 

Cowpea  
Fodder  corn 

Hungarian  grass  
Kentucky  blue  grass  .  .  . 
Oats  and  peas  
Pasture  grass,  mixed  .  . 
Sorghum  fodder  
Soy  bean  
Teosinte  

Dry  Fodders  and  Hay 

Alfalfa  

Bermuda  
Blue  grass 

Clover,  alsike  
Clover,  red  
Corn  stover,  (stalks)  .  .  . 
Cowpea  .  
Crab  grass  
Johnson  grass  
Marsh  hay 

Millet  
Oat  hay  
Pea  hay  
Oat  and  pea  hay  
Prairie  (upland)  
Red  top  
Sorghum 

Timothy  
Timothy  and  clover  .  .  . 
Vetch 

Wheat  
Straw 
Barley  
Oat     
Rye    
Wheat  

Silage 

Alfalfa 

Apple  pomace  
Brewers  grains  
Corn  
Corn,  ears  removed  .  .  . 
Corn  cannery  refuse  .  .  . 
Cowpea  
Pea  cannery  refuse  .  .  . 
Red  clover  
Sorghum  

Roots  and  Tubers 

Beets,  common  
Beets,  sugar  
Beets,  mangels  

30 


CONKEY'S   STOCK   BOOK 


Average  Digestible  Nutrients  and  Fertilizing  Elements — Continued 


DIGESTIBLE  NUTRIENTS 

FERTILIZING  CONSTI- 

Dry 

IN  100  LBS. 

TUENTS  IN  1  TON 

matter 
•     IAA 

KIND  OF  FEED 

in  iuu 
ii__ 

T>.-~ 

Carbo- 

Total 

Phos- 

IDs. 

.rro- 

hy- 

Fat 

with 

Nitrogen 

phoric 

Potash 

tein 

drates 

f  at  x  2  1-4 

Acid 

Lbs. 

Roots  and  Tubers 

Lbs. 

Lbs. 

Lbs. 

Lbs. 

Lbs. 

Lbs. 

Lbs. 

11.4 

Carrots 

0.8 

7.7 

0.3 

9.2 

3.6 

1.8 

5.2 

11.7 

Parsnips  

1.1 

10.1 

0.2 

11.6 

5.2 

4.0 

8.8 

20.9 

Potatoes 

1.1 

15.7 

0.1 

17.0 

6.8 

3.2 

1.6 

11.4 

Rutabagas  

1.0 

8.1 

0.2 

9.5 

3.8 

2.4 

9.8 

28.9 

Sweet  potatoes     

0.8 

22.9 

0.3 

24.4 

4.8 

1.6 

7.4 

9.9 

Turnips    

0.9 

6.4 

0.1 

7.5 

4.2 

1.8 

6.8 

Grains,   Seeds   and 

their  By-Products 

89.2 

Barley  

8.4 

65.3 

1.6 

77.3 

38.4 

15.8 

9.6 

23.0 

Brewers  grains,  wet  .   . 

4.9 

7.6 

1.7 

16.3 

21.4 

8.4 

1.0 

91.3 

Brewers  grains,  dry  .   . 

20.0 

32.2 

6.0 

65.7 

80.0 

32.2 

4.0 

90.5 

Malt  sprouts    

20.3 

46.0 

1.4 

69.4 

84.2 

34.8 

39.0 

91.6 

Beet  pulp  dried    

4.1 

64.9 

69.0 

25.8 

4.4 

6.2 

86.6 

Buckwheat     

8.1 

48.2 

2.4 

61.7 

34.6 

13.8 

6.0 

91.8 

Buckwheat  bran    .   .   . 

5.9 

34.0 

2.0 

44.4 

40.2 

8.4 

25.4 

86.8 

Buckwheat  hulls    .   .   . 

1.2 

28.6 

0.5 

31.4 

14.6 

8.6 

29.4 

87.2 

Buckwheat  middlings  . 

22.7 

37.5 

6.1 

83.9 

85.4 

24.6 

22.8 

894 

Corn 

7.8 

66.8 

43 

88.6 

33.0 

14.2 

11.4 

85.0 

Corn  meal  

6.7 

64.3 

3.5 

78.9 

29.4 

12.6 

9.4 

84.9 

Corn  and  cob  meal    .   . 

4.4 

60.0 

2.9 

70.9 

27.2 

11.4 

9.4 

90.6 

Corn  bran  

6.0 

52.5 

4.8 

69.3 

35.8 

20.2 

12.4 

89.3 

Corn  cob    

0.5 

44.8 

45.3 

7.8 

1.2 

12.0 

92.4 

Distillers  grains  .... 

22.8 

39.7 

11.6 

88.6 

89.8 

12.0 

3.4 

90.8 

Gluten  feed  

21.3 

52.8 

2.9 

80.6 

80.0 

7.4 

0.8 

90.4 

Hominy  chop  .... 

6.8 

60.5 

7.4 

84.0 

33.6 

19.6 

9.8 

89.7 

Cottonseed     

12.5 

30.0 

17.3 

85.7 

59.8 

21.0 

21.8 

88.9 

Cottonseed  hulls    .  . 

0.3 

33.2 

1.7 

37.3 

13.4 

8.6 

20.8 

93.0 

Cottonseed  meal     .   . 

37.6 

21.4 

9.6 

80.6 

145.0 

60.8 

31.6 

89.7 

Cocoanut  cake  

15.4 

41.2 

10.7 

80.7 

63.0 

32.0 

48.0 

85.4 

Cowpeas  

16.8 

54.9 

1.1 

74.2 

65.6 

20.2 

24.0 

90.8 

Flax  seed    

20.6 

17.1 

29.0 

104.7 

72.4 

27.8 

20.6 

90.2 

Oil  meal,  old  process 

30.2 

32.0 

6.9 

77.7 

108.4 

33.2 

27.4 

91.0 

Oil  meal,  new  process  . 

31.5 

35.7 

2.4 

72.6 

120.0 

34.8 

26.8 

901 

Kafir  

5.2 

44.3 

1.4 

52.6 

35.8 

86.4 

Kafir  corn  heads    .   .   . 

4.2 

42.4 

1.2 

49.3 

29.4 

87.9 

Millet    

7.1 

48.5 

2.5 

61.2 

34.8 

13.0 

6.6 

89.6 

Oats 

10.7 

50.3 

3.8 

69.5 

36.4 

15.6 

9.6 

88.0 
91.2 

Oats  ground     
Oat  middlings 

10.1 
13.1 

52.5 

57.7 

3.7 

6.5 

70.9 
85.4 

39.4 
51.8 

15.2 
45.0 

10.0 
30.6 

93.5 

Oat  dust     5.1 

32.8 

2.3 

43.1 

89.5 

Pea  meal     

16.8 

51.7 

0.7 

70.1 

64.6 

16.4 

19.8 

89.2 

Rice  polish     

7.9 

58.6 

5.3 

78.4 

38.0 

53.4 

14.2 

90.3 

Rice  bran 

7.6 

388 

7.3 

62.8 

38.0 

5.8 

4.8 

91.3 

Rye    

9.5 

69.4 

1.2 

81.6 

36.2 

17.2 

11.6 

86.9 

Rye  flour   

5.6 

72.2 

0.5 

78.9 

21.4 

16.4 

13.0 

88.4 

Rye  bran    

11.2 

46.8 

1.8 

61.8 

46.6 

45:6 

28.0 

88.2 

Rye  middlings     .... 

11.0 

52.9 

2.6 

69.7 

45.8 

24.6 

19.2 

Rye  distillers  grains  .   . 

14.6 

45.7 

4.5 

70.4 

88.3 

Soy  beans    

29.1 

23.3 

14.6 

85.2 

107.3 

20.8 

25.2 

92.0 

Spelz,  emmer    . 

10.0 

70.3 

2.0 

84.8 

36.8 

15.2 

11.4 

89.5 

Wheat  

8.8 

67.5 

1.5 

79.7 

38.0 

11.0 

17.4 

88.1 

Wheat  bran      

11.9 

42.0 

2.5 

61.5 

49.2 

53.8 

30.4 

90.0 

Wheat  middlings    .   .   . 

16.9 

53.6 

4.1 

79.7 

61.4 

24.4 

19.2 

88.0 

Wheat  shorts   

13.0 

45.7 

4.5 

68.8 

54.0 

52.6 

30.6 

90.1 

Red  dog  flour  

16.2 

57.0 

3.4 

80.8 

58.8 

Miscellaneous 

74.1 

Porto  Rico  molasses  .   .   . 

1.4 

59.2 

80.6 

8.6 

2.4 

73.6 

79.2 

Sugar  beet  molasses  .   .   . 

.  4.7 

54.1 

58.8 

29.0 

1.0 

112.6 

91.5 

Dried  blood 

60.8 

25 

66.4 

270.9 

27.0 

15.4 

93.0 

Tankage  

50.1 

11.6 

76.2 

172.4 

278.0 

6.0 

9.1 

Field  pumpkins    

1.0 

5.8 

0.2 

7.2               4.2 

RIGHT   FEEDING 


II.     Practical  Feeding 

TWO  CLASSES     Feeds  for  farm  animals  are  considered  in  two  classes, 

concentrates    and   roughage. 

Concentrates  are  the  grains,  bran,  oil  meal,  and  such  highly  nutritious 
condensed  feeding  stuffs.  Roughage  is  the  more  bulky,  coarse-material 
feed,  such  as  hay,  corn  fodder,  forage,  silage,  roots,  straw,  etc. 

BULK    NEEDED     All  animals,  man  included,  need  bulk  as  well  as  con- 
centrated   nourishment.      But    the    needs    of    different 

animals  vary  greatly.  All  do  not  have  the  same  capacity  for  bulky  food. 
The  horse,  for  instance,  has  a  stomach  that  holds  about  19  quarts.  But 
the  ox  has  room  for  about  200  quarts,*  the  sheep  31  quarts;  and  the  hog 
only  about  &*/2  quarts,  on  the  average.  Now  the  ox  and  the  sheep  are 
cud-chewers,  with  large  capacity  for  storing  food  during  the  process  of 
digesting.  But  the  horse  and  the  hog  can  more  quickly  get  their  food  out 
of  their  stomach  and  into  the  intestines,  thus  making  room  for  more.  Of 
all  the  farm  animals  the  pig  is  the  least  suited  to  bulky  feed,  because  of 
its  small  stomach.  The  horse  manages  very  well;  but  to  insure  digestion, 
his  morning  and  noon  feeds  should  always  be  light  and  the  bulk  feed 
should  never  be  fed  right  after  the  grain,  for  the  grain  would  then  be 
crowded  out  of  the  stomach  before  the  poor  animal  had  time  to  fully 
digest  it.  He  should  have  his  water  first,  then  a  little  hay,  and  then  the 
grain. 

Bulk  distends  the  walls  of  the  intestines,  and  thus  helps  those  tissues 
to  absorb  the  food  elements.  It  also  keeps  the  concentrated  feed  from 
passing  too  quickly  through  the  intestines,  so  that  it  can  not  be  fully 
digested,  i.  e.,  put  in  solution,  for  the  walls  to  absorb  it,  but  hurries  out  and 
is  wasted. 

Some  good  rules  for  feeding  bulk  are  here  given,  but  with  any  rule 
we  must  make  allowance  for  varied  working  conditions.  These  are  general: 

For  the  work-horse...    1  part  concentrate  to  1  part  roughage. 
"     beef  steer    .......    1  '1 

"     dairy  cow    .......   2     "  "    3      " 

"     sheep    ...........    1     "  "2 

"     Swine  .............  Feed  concentrates  almost  entirely. 

For  practical  purposes  compare  here  the  rations  given  (for  horse) 
page  48  (dairy  cow)  page  38,  (beef  steer)  page  42,  (sheep)  page  49,  (swine) 
page  55. 

As  a  rule  it  is  more  economical  to  raise  the  roughage  and  buy  the 
concentrates,  if  buying  is  necessary.  Select  your  feeding  crop  and  then 
compare  it  with  the  table,  page  29,  for  its  feeding  value,  and  see  what 
concentrates  would  best  combine  with  it.  Compare  a  number  of  concen- 
trates together,  and  then  make  final  choice  of  the  ones  you  can  get  the 
easiest  and  cheapest.  Remember  in  this  table  what  each  element  will  do 
for  you;  especially  — 

Protein  —  Makes  and  repairs  lean  tissues,  hair,  hoof,  casein  in  milk,  etc. 
THIS  IS  USUALLY  AN  EXPENSIVE  ELEMENT. 

Carbohydrates  and  fats  —  Keep  body  warm,  supply  working  power, 
make  surplus  fat.  THESE  ARE  USUALLY  FAIRLY  CHEAP  ELE- 
MENTS. 

*Compare  Strangeway's  Anatomy. 


32 


CONKEY'S  STOCK   BOOK 


CORN  Corn  is  easily  the  king  of  all  grains.  It  is  the  great  energizing, 
heat-giving,  fattening  food  for  farm  animals.  But,  it  does  lack 
material  for  bone  and  muscle;  (compare  the  table  and  see  how  low  it  is 
in  crude  protein  and  mineral  matter).  Animals  like  it  because  of  the  rich, 
palatable  oil,  which  makes  it  so  agreeable  after  it  is  masticated.  But  this 
oil  becomes  rancid  after  corn  is  ground  to  meal;  so  it  should  be  ground 
only  as  needed,  and  will  then  never  be  musty  or  stale,  but  will  be  properly 
relished  by  the  animals. 

OATS  Oats  are  next  to  corn  in  the  amount  grown  in  this  country.  They 
are  the  safest  of  all  feeds  for  horses — valuable  also  for  the  dairy 
cow;  but  oats  are  high  priced.  However,  whatever  the  price,  be  sure  you 
know  what  you  are  buying,  and  run  over  carefully  the  following  points  of 
difference  in  oats: 

Good  Oats.        Inferior  Oats  New  Oats. 

Clean  Dirty  Shiny  husks 

Even  size  Uneven  size         Earthy  smell 

Short  Small  Sweet,  milky  taste 

Plump  Flat  Soft 

Heavy  Light  Bearded 

Hard  Soft  Down-covered  kernel  Husks  drawn  tight 

Thin-skinned       Coarse-skinned   Ends  of  grain  soft       Ends  of  grain  sharp 
Dry  Mouldy  Flour  juicy  Flour  dry 


Old  Oats. 
No  lustre 
Free  from  odor 
Bitter  taste 
Hard 
Beards  nibbed  off 


CRUSHED  OR 
BRUISED    OATS 


Give  good  oats  always,  and  oats  of  the  proper  age 
where  possible.  It  is  a  very  important  matter  that 
they  should  be  crushed  for  all  horses.  Crushed  oats 

are  a  great  benefit  to  any  horse.  They  are  eaten  better  if  the  animal  is 
delicate  and  greediness  becomes  a  matter  of  lesser  importance.  The  grain 
digests  better  and  goes  farther  as  a  nutrient  food.  It  will  save  considerable 


Cow  Pea 


Field  Pea 


Soy  Bean 


waste;  and  the  process  of  going  through  the  crusher  separates  a  lot  of 
dirt  that,  even  in  "clean"  oats,  will  surprise  you.  Crushing  oats  assists 
mastication  and  digestion;  and  the  grain  does  not  pass  whole  through  the 
stomach  and  bowels  undigested,  as  is  often  noticed  when  whole  oats  are 
fed.  Crushed  oats  will  furnish  one-third  more  nutriment,  measure  for 
measure,  than  whole  oats. 

How   often    are   oats   or   hay  fed   intelligently?     How   often    does   the 
ordinary  stableman  know  whether  they  are  good,  bad,  or  indifferent?     The 


RIGHT  FEEDING 


33 


farmer  is  supposed  to  know;  but  how  often  is  there  one  who  has  had  a 
bad  year  with  his  crops?  His  hay  has  been  hauled  in  before  an  expected 
storm  when  it  was  but  half  cured,  and  stowed  away  in  the  barn  to 
become  mow-burnt  and  musty;  or  his  oats  may  have  turned  out  to  be 
about  all  beards  and  but  little  kernel.  It  would  pay  him  better  to  throw 
such  hay  out  and  buy  from  his  more  fortunate  neighbors;  but  does  he 
do  it?  Not  once  in  twenty  cases,  but  while  he  knows  that  it  is  not  good, 
he  goes  ahead  and  feeds  it,  believing  that  he  is  economizing  when  he  is 
certainly  inviting  trouble  and  loss.  The  food  should  be  most  thoroughly 
inspected. 

BRAN  Here  is  a  feed  not  generally  understood,  so  that  farmers  some- 
times misuse  it.  This  is  the  husk  or  skin  of  the  wheat  grains. 
The  outer  part  acts  as  a  laxative,  and  this  power  is  increased  by  warming — 
see  page  15  for  directions  for  Bran  Mash.  Bran  fed  dry  will  counteract  the 
bad  effect  of  too  much  physic.  It  is  good  to  soften  water  that  is  hard, 
or  to  purify  water  that  is  suspected.  Just  stir  in  a  few  handfuls.  As  a 
corrective  for  animals  it  stands  at  the  head  of  all  feeds,  when  given  not 
too  often  and  at  the  temperature  of  the  body.  It  is  especially  good  for 
all  animals  burdened  with  young,  also  excellent  for  milk  cows.  It  is  good 
to  combine  with  corn  or  similar  fattening  feeds,  as  it  is  a  bone  and  muscle 
maker,  without  being  a  fattener.  It  has  a  good  deal  of  bulk  for  a  con- 
centrate, so  must  be  used  accordingly. 

Bran  is  especially  useful  to  aid  digestion  of  starchy  foods.  It  contains 
the  mysterious  substance  called  diastase,  a  digestive  ferment  which  converts 
starch  into  sugar. 


Rape 
LINSEED   MEAL 


Sand  Vetch 


Linseed  meal  is  another  mill  product.  Use  only  a 
little  at  a  time,  because  it  is  rich  in  crude  protein, 
and  also  is  somewhat  laxative.  It  helps  to  give  that  good  pliable  feel  to 
the  hide,  and  the  glistening  coat  that  speaks  so  well  for  general  condition. 
A  little  is  better  than  much,  for  instance: 


34 


CONKEY'S  STOCK  BOOK 


For  the  horse  y2  to  \l/2  Ibs.  per  day  (more  will  make  him  soft). 

'  dairy  cow  1  to  2  Ibs.  " 
'  fat  sheep  l/4  to  y$  Ibs.  " 
'  steer  2  to  3  Ibs.  " 

'  h°g  1A  to    y3  ibs.    "     " 

HAY  It  is  to  be  hoped  your  hay  comes  from  a  mixed  meadow,  such,  for 
instance,  as  red  top,  timothy  and  orchard  grass,  with  a  little  alsike 
and  medium  red  clover  and  some  white  clover;  then  you  will  get  big  crops, 
and  the  livestock  will  benefit  by  the  aromatic,  palatable  blending.  Good 
hay  is  very  important.  Feeding  hay  that  is  inferior,  mouldy,  mow-burnt, 
or  dirty  is  a  common  cause  of  poor  condition  of  farm  animals,  loss  of 
spirits,  loss  of  working  capacity;  and  in  horses  causes  broken  wind,  and 
heaves. 

MUSTY  AND  Sometimes    serious    brain    diseases    are    caused    by 

ERGOTED    GRAINS     moldy   food,   or  food   that   is  wormy.      Ergot,   the 

black   mold   on    rye   and   such   grains    (maybe   you 

call  it  "spurred  rye"),  produces  the  poisoned  condition  called  ergotism, 
for  which  see  page  141  under  Diseases.  The  big  caution  is — Avoid  all 
smutty  and  moldy  foods  for  livestock. 

.  LEGUME  CROPS       The   general   grains — corn,   oats,   wheat,   rye,   barley 
— and    the    grasses — timothy,    prairie    hay,    etc., — are 

great  energizers  and  fatteners.  You  noted  their  high  per  cent,  in  the  carbo- 
hydrates column.  Another  class  of  feeds,  the  legumes — alfalfa,  clover, 
vetch,  cow  pea,  soy  bean,  etc. — represent  muscle 
and  bone  builders,  being  rich  in  protein,  also  in 
lime,  which  latter  element  is  important  to  all  farm 
animals.  In  these  two  elements,  protein  and 
lime,  the  legume  crops  are  the  strongest  of  all 
raised  on  the  farm.  We  know  that  legume  crops 
are  a  positive  necessity  if  we  expect  to  keep  up 
the  fertility  of  the  soil,  so  on  this  as  well  as  our 
livestock  account,  the  legumes  must  claim  the 
farmer's  closest  attention.  We  haven't  the  space 
here  to  get  enthusiastic.  But  take  it  to  heart, 
what  the  farmer  of  today  doesn't  know  about 
legumes,  and  especially  in  this  alfalfa  day,  what  he 
doesn't  know  about  alfalfa,  he  must  make  short 
work  to  find  out,  or  he'll  be  left  far  behind  the 
procession. 

ALFALFA,  ALFALFA,  The  song  of  songs 
ALFALFA!  would  be  the  song  of 

alfalfa,    the    wonderful 

gift  of  nature  to  crop-tilling  man.  No  other 
roughage  on  the  farm  can  compare  with  it  in 
variety  of  uses.  Fed  to  fattening  steers,  it  tends 
to  rapid  gains,  at  far  less  use  of  expensive  con- 
centrates. Alfalfa  hay  for  dairy  cows  gives  the 
very  best  material  for  milk  production.  Alfalfa 
leads  as  a  roughage  for  sheep.  It  is  even  use- 
ful for  fattening  hogs,  or  tiding  them  over  the 
winter — and  the  hog,  you  know,  is  an  almost  total 
abstainer  from  ordinary  roughage.  Horses  at 
slow  and  steady  work  can  make  good  use  of  alfal- 
fa, though  it  is  unsuited  to  road  animals.  In  the 


Alfalfa 


RIGHT  FEEDING 35 

West  alfalfa  "has  revolutionized  sheep  fattening  as  an  industry."  It  may 
be  grazed  to  some  extent,  but  it  is  really  a  hay  crop.  Alfalfa  is  invaluable 
for  soiling,  as  so  often  practiced  in  the  economical  East.  It  furnishes 
a  nearly  continuous  summer  forage.  Alfalfa  can  even  be  insilaged;  but 
better  leave  that  to  corn,  and  cure  the  alfalfa.  The  first  crop  coming 
at  a  rainy  season  is  a  little  hard  to  cure,  but  the  use  of  a  hay  cap  will  save 
that  trouble  largely.  Once  well  started  it  is  a  sure  crop. 

Advice:     Study  alfalfa. 

ROOTS  AND  We,  in  the  United  States,  have  not  learned  to  rely  on 
TUBERS  roots  and  tubers  for  feeding  livestock,  in  spite  of  the 

excellent  showing  of  Canadian,  English,  and  Continental 
European  feeders.  The  truth  is  roots  are  expensive,  on  account  of  the 
high  per  cent,  of  water.  Of  course,  based  on  dry  matter,  a  pound  of  dry 
matter  in  roots  would  have  about  the  same  value  as  a  pound  of  corn, 
wheat,  oats  or  barley.  The  animals  like  roots  and  tubers,  to  be  sure — just 
see  that  dairy  cow  go  for  those  carrots.  They  have  a  tonic  value,  as  well 
as  being  nutritious.  Usually  they  are  cut  or  sliced  and  put  into  the  feed 


Home-made  Root  Chopper 

boxes  with  a  little  meal  over  them.  In  Canada  and  England  the  plan  is  to 
pulp  them  up  and  spread  in  alternate  layers,  first  pulp  then  some  cut  straw 
or  hay — a  sort  of  scalloped  stock-food,  just  as  the  housewife  scallops 
oysters.  This  is  a  good  way  to  get  the  fullest  possible  use  of  straw;  and 
with  only  a  small  amount  of  concentrate  used,  the  expense  is  not  so  great 
as  might  be,  either.  There  is  plenty  of  room  for  experimenting  with  roots 
for  livestock;  for  we  have  yet  to  equal  root-feeding  countries  in  the  general 
average  of  beef  and  mutton  quality. 

Note  one  fact  in  root  feeding:  It  tends  to  a  more  watery  flesh,  which 
is  a  better  preparation  for  fattening;  and  is  always  an  advantage  for  breed- 
ing animals.  If  then  we  must  be  slow  to  utilize  roots  on  account  of  the 
expense  in  feeding,  it  will  certainly  pay  to  consider  them  more  fully  for 
use  for  breeding  animals,  and  for  preparing  animals  for  that  final  fatten- 
ing or  "finish,"  since  the  watery  tissue  is  a  real  advantage  with  both  of 
these  classes,  the  "breeders"  and  "feeders." 

1.     Feeding  the  Dairy  Cow 

ALWAYS     The  dairy  cow  is  a  big  feeder.     But  if  you  give  her  legumes 
HUNGRY    such  as  alfalfa,  clover,  etc.,  rich  in  crude  protein  and  mineral 
matter,  you  can  do  with  less  concentrates;   and  these  are  the 
expensive  feed  for  the  dairyman. 

With  legumes  so  used,  it  is  best  to  use  also  a  succulent  roughage,  such 
as  silage,  or  palatable  nourishing  roots,  after  the  European  system.  This 
in  turn  reduces  the  amount  of  straw,  corn  stover  or  low  grade  hay  to  be 
used,  and  of  course  relieves  the  cow  of  just  that  much  extra  strain  in  diges- 
tion, 


36 


CONKEY'S  STOCK  BOOK 


A  rich  legume  will  take  the  place  of  half  the  usual  expensive  concen- 
trate, provided  corn  silage  and  roots  are  included.  Prof.  Henry  estimates 
on  this  basis  that  about  6  Ibs.  of  concentrates  would  be  enough  for  the 
average  dairy  ration  daily. 

Start  in  once  more  and  read  the  above  all  over  again;  for  it  gives  you 
the  very  cream  of  modern  scientific  conclusions  on  dairy  feeding. 

IN  WINTER  You  see,  the  dairy  cow  must  have  lots  of  protein.  If  in  full 
milk  she  needs  nearly  2  Ibs.  of  digestible  protein  per  day; 
but  instead  of  purchasing  such  feed  as  bran,  shorts,  oatmeal,  gluten  meal, 
etc.,  give  her  common  farm  feeds  like  clover,  alfalfa,  cow  peas,  and  oats; 
all  of  which  are  rich  in  protein,  and  easy  to  grow  on  the  farm.  Add  to  this 
corn  silage.  If  your  silage  is  heavily  eared,  you  can  even  dispense  with 
grain,  and  will  get  nicely  through  the  winter.  Well  cured  clover  or  alfalfa 
hay  is  about  the  best  bulky  feed  to  give  during  the  winter.  Timothy,  of 
course,  doesn't  contain  enough  protein  for  good  milk  yield.  Remember 
that  roots,  mangels,  turnips,  pumpkins  and  other  green  vegetables  will  help 
out  on  the  milk  production,  and  keep  the  cows  happy. 

IN  SUMMER  In  summer  you  have  your  pastures;  but  grow  corn  and 
other  crops  in  summer  for  green  feeding  when  pastures 
are  short — then  you  won't  lose  out  on  your  milk  contracts;  for  such  crops 
make  well  balanced  feed  and  are  available  on  the  farm  from  May  to  October. 
One  man  by  cropping  all  his  land,  cutting  out  all  pasture  and  soiling  the 
crops,  that  is  cutting  and  bringing  them  to  the  barnyard  for  feeding,  just 
about  doubled  the  number  of  cows  he  could  provide  with  acreage, — of 
course  doubling  the  size  of  his  dairy.  This  is  getting  to  be  quite  the  favored 
method  in  dairying, — cutting  down  pastures,  but  raising  green  crops  and 
bringing  these  to  the  barnyard  or  feed  lot  (called  the  "soiling"  system) 
right  to  the  animals.  Of  course  there  is  more  labor,  (you'll  need  an  extra 
farm  hand),  but  with  a  larger  herd,  more  home  grown  feed  and  little  to 
buy,  that  extra  cost  for  labor  is  drowned  out  in  the  milk  pail.  On  the 
soiling  system  with  no  pasture,  each  cow  consumes  from  75  to  100  Ibs.  of 
forage  daily. 

THE  MODERN  SILO     Don't  neglect  the  silo.     Every  dairy  farm  should 
have   one.      Concrete   is   best,   but   staves   will   do 

when  fitted  air-tight  and  strongly  hooped  together.  You  can  estimate 
the  size  you  need  by  remembering  that  well  settled  silage  counts  45  Ibs. 
to  the  cubic  foot.  The  cost  of  silage  varies  from 
$1  to  $2  a  ton, — it  shouldn't  go  over  that.  This  is 
where  you  save  money  over  and  over  again,  and 
at  the  same  time  make  money  on  increased  milk 
production.  So  don't  neglect  the  silo.  If  you 
haven't  one,  build  it  next  summer  and  pack  it 
completely.  A  round  silo  is  best,  as  it  gives  the 
greatest  capacity  for  the  least  area  and  building 
material,  and  there  are  no  corners  for  the  silage 
to  spoil  in.  Make  it  30  ft.  high,  if  possible,  and 
never  under  20  ft.,  for  height  increases  the  pres- 
sure, and  the  silage  will  keep  better.  Feed  at  least 
2  ins.  from  the  top  surface  every  day.  Estimate  5  Building  a  Stave  Silo 

sq.  ft.  (2  ins.  deep)  to  each  cow.    Thus  a  herd  of  20 

would  need  a  feeding  surface  of  100  sq.  ft.,  that  is,  a  12  ft.  diameter  silo. 
Don't  have  too  large  a  diameter,  or  you  will  lose  a  good  deal  of  silage 
through  molding.  Better  have  two  small  silos  than  one  too  large  in  diameter, 


RIGHT   FEEDING • 37 

STICK  TO  Milk  cows  should  have  all  the  feed  they  can  digest 

A  GOOD  SYSTEM  without  undue  waste  in  excrement.  Good  feed  and 
care  will  make  all  of  50%  difference  in  the  final  pro- 
duction of  the  dairy  herd.  Prof.  Eckles,  of  University  of  Missouri,  says 
the  average  yearly  production  could  be  increased  from  one-half  to  three- 
fourths  simply  by  following  better  methods  of  feeding.  Of  course  the 
ration  must  be  good,  that  is  properly  balanced  in  the  elements  it  contains 
for  milk  production;  and  it  must  be  palatable  to  the  animals,  and  cheap 
as  possible  for  the  owner. 

A  STORY  At  Cornell  experiment  station  they  have  a  story  of  a 

FROM  CORNELL     certain  "up-state"  farmer  with  a  herd  of  poorly  nour- 
ished cows,  from  which  he  got  a  weekly  milk  yield 

of  about  109  Ibs.  testing  4.56%  butter-fat.  The  whole  herd  was  taken  to 
the  experiment  station,  and  for  two  years  put  on  liberal  feed  and  care, 
and  the  average  milk  yield  jumped  to  155  Ibs.  per  week  for  the  herd,  with 
a  butter-fat  percentage  of  4.7  average.  At  the  end  of  these  two  years  the 
herd  was  sent  back  to  the  owner,  and  for  another  year  records  were  kept 
to  see  the  result  under  the  owner's  "slack  feeding"  methods:  The  average 
went  back  to  the  old  meagre  standard. 

HERE'S  FROM  Wisconsin  station  has  been  making  some  good  dairy 
WISCONSIN  feeding  tests,  with  results  as  follows: 

25  cows:     1  year  record — 
Average  milk  yield  8,439.6  Ibs.  (363.32  Ibs.  butter-fat). 

Average  value  of  milk   $111.76 

Average  cost  of  feeding    50.34 

Average  net  profit    $  61.42 

In  this  test  the  grain  ration  used  was  as  follows:  Wheat  bran  3  parts, 
corn  meal  4  parts,  distillers'  grains  3  parts.  Small  amounts  of  oats,  oil- 
meal  and  brewers'  grains  for  variety. 

Tests  of  individual  cows  showed  the  following:  High  producers  use 
large  amounts  of  dry  matter,  with  as  much  as  2^>  Ibs.  digestible  protein 
daily.  But  low  producers,  and  those  advanced  in  milking,  could  make 
economical  use  of  considerably  less  grain  and  cheaper  feed  stuffs  in 
general. 

Its  all  in  the  cow, — and  the  feeder. 

HOW  CON-  In  some  countries  where  conditions  do  not  vary  much, 

DITIONS  VARY      in  Denmark  for  instance,  it  would  be  easy  to  lay  down 

a    few    definite    rules.      In    this    country    the    feeding 

problem  is  different  for  almost  every  dairy.  Local  conditions,  the  feeds 
cheapest  and  easiest  to  get,  the  crops  raised  on  the  farm,  all  enter  into 
the  problem.  The  ration  must  be  made  up  to  fit  the  dairy  needs;  but  it 
must  be  selected  from  feeds  that  are  comparatively  easy  to  get  and  cheap. 
The  following  have  been  made  up  to  suit  conditions  found  in  different 
parts  of  the  country,  making  use  of  available  feeds  and  little  or  no  allow- 
ance for  pasture.  Of  course,  with  a  considerable  pasture,  there  is  prac- 
tically no  fair  rule  for  figuring.  In  these  rations,  the  amount  of  mixed 
feed  or  concentrates  is  estimated  at  1  Ib.  a  day  for  each  3  or  3l/2  Ibs.  of 
milk.  Feed  the  cow  according  to  her  dairy  test.  Put  into  each  cow 
what  you  think  you  can  get  out  of  her:  Find  out  her  full  capacity,  then 
estimate  about  50%  to  60%  of  that  ration  will  be  needed  to  maintain  her 
normal  weight.  If  you  feed  her  less  than  capacity  you  don't  hurt  the 
cow,  but  you  do  cut  off  her  production  for  you,  that  is,  your  profit, 


38 CONKEY'S  STOCK  BOOK 

Some  Practical  Dairy  Rations 

EASTERN  STATES. 

200  Ibs.  bran,  300  Ibs.  corn  chop*,  300  Ibs.  buckwheat  middling.  For 
roughage  hay  10  Ibs.  per  head,  and  stover  as  desired. 

400  Ibs.  distillery  grains,  300  Ibs  corn,  100  Ibs.  bran.  For  roughage 
mixed  clover  and  timothy  10  Ibs.  per  head,  and  corn  stover  as  wanted. 

400  Ibs.  bran,  and  oats,  200  Ibs.  corn  chop,  200  Ibs.  Unicorn  dairy  feed. 
For  roughage  30  to  35  Ibs.  silage,  and  clover  hay  as  wanted. 

300  Ibs.  Ajax,  200  Ibs.  buckwheat  middlings,  and  300'  Ibs.  corn  chop. 
Silage  25  Ibs.,  hay  as  wanted. 

400  Ibs.  corn  chop,  100  Ibs.  bran  and  200  Ibs.  Ajax  Flakes.  Silage  25 
to  30  Ibs.,  hay  as  wanted. 

400  Ibs.  corn  chop,  300  Ibs.  Three  D  Grains,  100  Ibs.  bran,  200  Ibs.  oil 
meal,  hay  as  wanted. 

600  Ibs.  corn  and  cob  meal,  400  Ibs.  dried  grains,  mixed  with  molasses 
fed  each  day.  For  roughage  hay,  10  Ibs.,  corn  stover  10  Ibs.,  beets  20  to 
30  Ibs.  per  head. 

600  Ibs.  ground  corn,  400  Ibs.  Buffalo  gluten.  For  roughage,  silage 
and  clover  hay. 

400  Ibs.  corn  chop,  200  Ibs.  cottonseed  meal,  100  Ibs.  oilmeal.  Silage 
25  Ibs.,  hay  as  wanted. 

300  Ibs.  corn  chop,  200  Ibs.  bran,  100  Ibs.  oats,  100  Ibs.  oilmeal.  For 
roughage,  12  to  15  Ibs.  clover  hay,  and  corn  stover  as  wanted. 

300  Ibs.  corn  chop,  200  Ibs.  bran,  200  Ibs.  buckwheat  middlings,  100  Ibs. 
oilmeal.  For  roughage,  all  the  mixed  hay  wanted. 

400  Ibs.  corn  chop,  300  Ibs.  oats,  100  Ibs.  cottonseed  meal.  Silage  30 
Ibs.,  hay  as  wanted. 

400  Ibs.  corn  and  cob  meal,  300  Ibs.  oats,  100  Ibs.  cottonseed  meal.  For 
roughage,  30  Ibs.  silage,  hay  as  wanted. 

500  Ibs.  corn  chop,  200  Ibs.  gluten  feed,  100  Ibs.  malt  sprouts.  For 
roughage,  clover  hay  as  wanted. 

300  Ibs.  corn  chop,  300  Ibs.  dried  brewers'  grains,  200  Ibs.  malt  sprouts. 
For  roughage,  10  Ibs.  mixed  hay,  corn  stover  as  wanted. 

SOUTHERN  STATES 

400  Ibs.  corn  hearts,  100  Ibs.  cottonseed  meal,  200  Ibs.  bran  and  oats. 
For  roughage,  30  Ibs.  silage  and  cow-pea  hay. 

Mixed  400  Ibs.  corn-chop,  200  Ibs.  oats,  100  Ibs.  distillery  grain,  100 
Ibs.  oilmeal.  For  roughage  alfalfa,  all  each  cow  would  eat. 

400  Ibs.  corn-chop,  200  Ibs.  bran  and  100  Ibs.  cottonseed  meal.  Silage 
30  Ibs.,  hay  as  wanted. 

300  Ibs.  corn-chop,  200  buckwheat  middlings,  200  Ibs.  bran,  100  Ibs. 
oilmeal.  For  roughage,  all  the  clover  hay  wanted. 

400  Ibs.  corn-chop,  300  Ibs.  bran,  100  Ibs.  cottonseed  meal.  For  rough 
age,  30  Ibs.  silage,  clover  hay  as  wanted. 

400  Ibs.  corn-chop,  300  Ibs.  bran,  100  Ibs.  cottonseed  meal.  For  rough- 
age, 12  to  15  Ibs.  alfalfa  and  Johnson  grass  hay,  5  Ibs.  cottonseed  hulls. 

CENTRAL  STATES 

500  Ibs.  corn-chop,  400  Ibs.  bran,  100  Ibs.  cottonseed  meal.  For  rough- 
age, 30  Ibs.  silage,  15  Ibs.  alfalfa  and  all  the  clover  hay  wanted. 

400  Ibs.  corn-chop,  300  Ibs.  bran,  100  Ibs.  gluten  feed.  For  roughage, 
24  part  silage  to  1  part  clover  hay. 

*Corn-chop  is  corn  ground  reasonbly  fine.    It  contains  the  bran. 


RIGHT  FEEDING  39 

300  Ibs.  corn-chop,  500  Ibs.  oats  and  peas.  For  roughage,  etc.,  silage 
(30  Ibs  per  head),  and  clover  hay  as  wanted. 

300  Ibs.  corn-chop  and  300  Ibs,  oats,  150  Ibs.  cottonseed  meal.  For 
roughage,  15  to  18  Ibs.  prairie  hay,  oat  straw  to  pick  over.  Oilmeal  would 
help  above  ration. 

400  Ibs.  ground  kafir  corn,  100  Ibs  oats  and  100  Ibs.  bran.  For  rough- 
age, 30  Ibs.  silage,  and  mixed  hay  as  wanted. 

300  Ibs.  corn-chop,  200  Ibs.  ground  oats,  200  Ibs.  bran,  100.  Ibs  oil  meal. 
For  roughage,  12  to  15  Ibs.  clover  hay  per  head  and  corn  stover  as  wanted. 

400  Ibs.  corn-chop,  200  Ibs.  Union  grain,  200  Ibs.  bran.  For  roughage, 
20  Ibs.  silage  per  head  with  hay  as  wanted,  mixed  timothy  and  clover. 

400  Ibs.  corn-chop,  200  Ibs.  gluten  feed,  200  Ibs.  bran,  100  Ibs.  oil  meal. 
For  roughage,  10  to  12  Ibs.  clover  hay,  corn  stover,  all  the  'cow  will  eat. 

300  Ibs.  corn-chop,  300  Ibs.  hominy,  100  Ibs.  oil  meal,  100  Ibs.  cotton- 
seed meal.  For  roughage,  20  Ibs.  corn  silage,  and  mixed  hay  as  wanted. 

300  Ibs.  oats  and  bran,  400  Ibs.  corn-chop,  100  Ibs.  oil  meal.  Silage, 
30  Ibs.,  hay  8  to  12  Ibs. 

200  Ibs.  malt  sprouts  (to  be  soaked  in  water  several  hours  before 
using),  300  Ibs.  gluten  feed,  200  Ibs.  bran,  200  Ibs.  corn-chop.  For  rough- 
age, 35  to  40  Ibs.  silage,  corn  stover  as  wanted. 

200  Ibs.  corn-chop,  10  Ibs.  distillery  grains,  100  Ibs.  bran.  For  rough- 
age, 30  to  35  Ibs.  silage,  clover  hay  as  wanted. 

100  Ibs.  cottonseed  meal,  200  Ibs.  bran,  200  Ibs.  corn-chop.  For  rough- 
age, 10-12  Ibs.  timothy  and  clover  hay,  cottonseed  hulls  as  wanted. 

100  Ibs.  cottonseed  meal,  400  Ibs.  bran,  400  Ibs.  corn-chop,  100  Ibs. 
oil  meal.  For  roughage,  10  Ibs.  millet  and  cow-pea  hay  (half  and  half). 
Corn  fodder  as  wanted. 

300  Ibs  corn-chop,  300  Ibs.  bran,  200  Ibs.  gluten  feed.  For  roughage, 
30  to  35  Ibs.  silage,  clover  hay  as  wanted. 

NORTH  CENTRAL  STATES 

400  Ibs.  corn-chop,  200  Ibs.  Continental  gluten,  200  Ibs.  ground  oats. 
For  roughage,  30  Ibs.  silage  and  all  the  hay  wanted. 

400  Ibs.  corn-chop,  300  Ibs.  bran,  100  Ibs.  cottonseed  meal.  Silage,  30 
Ibs.,  hay  8  to  10  Ibs,,  corn  stover  as  wanted. 

500  Ibs.  corn  and  cob  meal,  300  Ibs.  bran,  200  Ibs.  cottonseed  meal. 
For  roughage,  30  Ibs  silage,  8  to  10  Ibs.  mixed  hay,  corn  stover  as  wanted. 

400  Ibs.  corn-chop,  300  Ibs.  oats,  100  Ibs.  rye.  For  roughage,  30  Ibs. 
silage,  alfalfa  as  wanted. 

300  Ibs.  corn-chop,  300  Ibs.  oats,  100  Ibs.  rye,  100  Ibs.  cottonseed  meal. 
For  roughage,  30  Ibs.  silage,  mixed  hay  as  wanted. 

400  Ibs  corn-chop,  300  Ibs.  bran.  For  roughage,  30  Ibs.  silage,  5  Ibs. 
alfalfa  hay,  5  Ibs.  clover  hay. 

WESTERN  STATES 

300  Ibs.  corn-chop,  300  Ibs.  bran,  200  Ibs.  oil  meal.  For  roughage, 
timothy  and  wild  prairie  hay. 

300  Ibs.  corn-chop,  300  Ibs.  bran,  150  Ibs.  oil  meal.  For  roughage,  10 
Ibs.  hay,  10  Ibs.  stover. 

400  Ibs  corn-chop,  300  Ibs.  bran,  100  Ibs.  oil  meal.  For  roughage,  silage 
(30  Ibs.  per  head),  and  mixed  clover  and  timothy  with  some  corn  stover. 

400  Ibs.  corn-chop,  300  Ibs.  bran,  100  Ibs.  cottonseed  meal.  For  rough- 
age, 40  Ibs.  silage  and  5  Ibs.  hay. 

600  Ibs.  oats  and  barley,  100  Ibs.  oil  meal,  100  Ibs.  cottonseed  meal. 
For  roughage.  20  Ibs.  silage,  10  Ibs.  timothy  hay  and  corn  stover  as  wanted. 

300  Ibs.  gluten  feed,  400  Ibs.  corn-chop,  100  Ibs.  bran.  For  roughage, 
30  Ibs.  silage,  and  all  the  hay  wanted. 


40 CONKEY'S  STOCK  BOOK 

300  Ibs.  Ajax  Flakes,  300  Ibs.  corn  and  cob  meal.  For  roughage,  30 
Ibs.  silage,  5  to  8  Ibs.  clover  hay,  shredded  corn  stover  as  wanted. 

300  Ibs.  barley  (or  corn-chop),  200  Ibs.  bran,  200  Ibs.  oats,  100  Ibs.  oil 
meal.  For  roughage,  10  to  15  Ibs.  clover  and  timothy  hay  mixed,  corn  stalks 
and  nubbins  as  wanted. 

300  Ibs.  corn  and  cob  meal,  100  Ibs.  soybean  meal.  For  roughage,  40 
Ibs.  turnip,  8  to  10  Ibs.  millet  hay,  corn  fodder  to  pick  over. 

PACIFIC  COAST 

600  Ibs.  barley,  200  Ibs.  bran  (feed  this  1  Ib.  to  each  2^  Ibs.  milk 
yield).  For  roughage,  10  to  15  Ibs.  clover  hay. 

400  Ibs.  barley,  400  Ibs.  bran.  For  roughage,  hay,  carrots,  and  pasture 
through  season,  amount  not  known. 

300  Ibs.  barley,  300  Ibs.  shorts,  100  Ibs.  oil  meal.  For  roughage,  all  the 
alfalfa  wanted. 

300  Ibs.  ground  barley,  300  Ibs.  alfalfa  meal  with  25  Ibs.  roots  and 
cale,  10  Ibs.  mixed  hay  (clover,  timothy,  velvet  grass). 

2.     Feeding  Beef  Cattle 

THE  BEEF  PROBLEM  In  feeding  beef  cattle  we  have  a  different  prob- 
lem. Instead  of  milk,  we  want  beef,  liberal  in 

quantity,  and  with  fat  distributed  between  muscles  and  fibre  rather  than 
in  loose  "rough  tallow,"  as  it  is  called  by  the  butcher. 

Beef  cannot  reach  top  prices  for  meat  that  is  tender,  juicy  and  tooth- 
some unless  it  has  this  plentiful  "marbling"  or  intermingling  of  fat  with 
fibre, — the  distinguishing  mark  of  good  beef  type. 

Part  of  the  beef  problem  is  to  get  development  where  we  want  it,  and 
not  where  we  don't, — a  liberal  laying  on  of  expensive  future  "cuts,"  but 
less  cheap  neck  and  wasteful  leg  bone.  Experiments  have  been  variously 
made,  with  corn,  wheat,  oats  and  cottonseed  meal,  linseed  oil  meal,  dis- 
tillers' grains,  sugarbeet  pulp,  dry  roughage,  such  as  corn  stover  and 
clover,  timothy  hay,  alfalfa,  silage,  and  roots  such  as  cassava,  sweet 
potatoes,  etc. 

But  the  most  significant,  perhaps  in  one  sense  the  most  expert,  tests 
in  feeding  beef  cattle  were  conducted  in  Great  Britain,  and  reported  by 
Ingle  (1909),  covering  a  period  of  over  seventy  years.  Of  the  200  odd 
cases  reported  we  select  a  few  specimens  from  those  given  by  Prof.  Henry. 
Rich  nitrogenous  concentrates  were  commonly  used,  such  as  linseed  meal,, 
cotton  meal,  brewers'  grains,  etc.,  but  a  comparatively  small  quantity,  usu- 
ally about  6  or  7  Ibs.  was  fed.  Roots  were  heavily  used  as  is  the  English 
and  European  custom,  which  recognizes  them  as  watered  concentrates.. 
A  good  big  portion  of  straw  and  hay,  this  latter  cut  and  mixed  with  cut 
roots  and  meal,  was  fed  daily,  along  with  a  small  quantity  of  cornmeal  or 
barley.  In  America  we  find  root  feeding  expensive;  but  it  is  a  fair  question 
today,  can  we  not,  as  Prof.  Henry  suggests,  get  equal  results  with  smaller 
allowance  of  corn  and  more  liberal  use  of  clover  and  alfalfa  hay,  and  succu- 
lent corn  silage? 

These  reports  are  averaged  from  tests  of  from  3  to  10  head  of  cattle  in. 
each  case.  It  is  probable,  as  Prof.  Henry  points  out,  that  the  cattle  are 
usually  in  good  flesh  when  the  British  feeder  begins,  being  mature  bullocks,, 

2  to  5-year-olds.     The  feeding  period  is  comparatively  short,  ranging  from 

3  to  4  months.     The  average  total  gain,  and  the  average  daily  gain,  for  each 
group  fed,  is  given,  but  not  the  weights  at  beginning  and  end  of  the  period,, 
simply  the  average.     Thus: 


RIGHT   FEEDING 


41 


Breed 

Age 

Av. 
Weight 

Feeding 
Period 

Average  Ration 

Av. 
Daily 
Gain 

Av. 
Total 
Gain 

Gal- 

Years 

Lbs. 

Days 

Oat  Straw    7.0  Ibs. 

Lbs. 

Lbs. 

loways 
Ab'rdeen- 

2-3 

1,003 
1,054 

100 
112 

Swedes  150.0  Ibs. 

Cottonseed  Cake    ...      3.0  Ibs. 
Oat  Straw    8.0  Ibs. 

1.4 
1.9 

143 
211 

Angus 

Mangels                            108  8  Ibs. 

Linseed  Cake                       2  4  Ibs 

Short- 

Corn Meal                            2.0  Ibs. 

horn 

2-5 

1,452 

98 

Straw    14.0  Ibs. 
Swedes  .    .           .       .      171.0  Ibs. 

3.0 

292 

Cottonseed  Cake    ...      5.0  Ibs. 
Linseed  Cake  .                     3  0  Ibs. 

Short- 
horn 

3 

1,326 

123 

Barley  1.0  Ibs. 
Hay    16.2  Ibs. 
Swedes  40.5  Ibs. 

Peanut  Cake    2.7  Ibs. 
Oats                                      2.7  Ibs. 

2.4 

294 

U          f      A 

1OQA 

107 

Barley                                  2.7  Ibs. 

o  o 

oqc 

Clover  Hay  .    .       .    .        14.0  Ibs. 

Swedes  45.0  Ibs. 
Bean  Meal                           3.0  Ibs. 

Oats  3.0  Ibs. 
Barley   3.0  Ibs. 

Hereford 

3 

1,261 

112 

Straw    4.1  Ibs. 

2.4 

263 

Hay    6.9  Ibs. 
Swedes  39.5  Ibs. 

FATTENING     The  fattening  ration  should  not  be  too  high  in  protein;  al- 
RATION  though  animals  thin  at  the  start  should  be  supplied  with 

abundant  protein  to  develop  muscular  tissue  in  prepara- 
tion for  fattening.  Kellner  sug- 
gests for  this  purpose  the  nutritive 
ratio  1  to  6  (see  page  25  on  nutri- 
tive ratio).  For  mature  fattening 
cattle  the  ratio  should  not  vary 
much  from  1  to  10  or  12.  Where 
the  feeding  period  covers  six 
months,  avoid  getting  cattle  on  full 
feed  for  the  first  month  or  six 
weeks;  for  they  will  not  show  for 
the  early  expense  at  the  close  of 
the  full  feeding  term.  Corn  is  by 
far  the  best  concentrate  for  quickly 
filling  the  tissues  with  fat,  and  in- 
suring a  high  quality  of  "marbling" 
in  the  beef.  It  is  therefore,  with- 
out question,  the  finest  of  finishing 
materials.  Where  possible  feed  it 
in  the  shock.  With  the  addition  of  Fed  right 


42 


CONKEY'S   STOCK   BOOK 


nitrogenous  roughage,  such  as  clover  or  alfalfa  hay,  or  a  corresponding 
concentrate  such  as  linseed  or  cottonseed  meal,  the  value  of  the  corn  is 
increased,  and  the  feeding  period  is  shortened. 

Note  that  in  some  cases  absolutely  no  concentrate  was  fed,  but  roots 
were  used  (roots  are  recognized  as  "watered  concentrate")  in  heavy  quan- 
tity, along  with  straw  and  hay.  These  cases  are  merely  typical.  It  would 
be  interesting  to  any  feeder  to  consult  and  study  carefully  the  full  report  of 
Ingle. 

If  instead  of  clover  or  alfalfa  roughage,  timothy,  sorghum,  or  kafir 
corn  must  be  substituted,  add  2  or  3  pounds  of  concentrate  like  cottonseed 
meal  or  linseed,  to  make  up  the  deficiency.  Steers  finishing  with  corn, 
but  on  pasture,  might  have  the  rich  linseed  meal  (2  or  3  pounds)  added  to 
their  ration  during  the  last  two  months  of  the  finishing  term.  Fattening 
gains  usually  cost  about  l/4  more  per  day  in  winter  than  in  summer.  Most 
feeders  feed  grain  and  roughage  twice  a  day  in  winter;  and  in  summer, 
grain  once  a  day. 

Here  are  three  specimen  rations  vouchsafed  for  by  Prof.  Linklater 
of  Oklahoma  College: — 

Rations  for  l,OOO-lb.  Fattening  Steer 


FEED 

IH 

<U 

&1 

oS 

Protein 

Carbohy- 
drates 

td 

fa 

Nutritive 
Ratio 

FEED 

*J 

QS 

Protein 

Carbohy- 
drates 

at 
fe 

Nutritive 
Ratio 

Feeding  Standard 
RATION  No.  1. 
Prairie  hay—  10  Ibs. 
Sorghum   fodder  — 

o  itT 

Lbs. 
30.00 

9.44 

Lbs. 
2.5 

0.37 

Lbs. 
15.00 

4.36 

Lbs. 
0.5 

0.09 

1:6.5 

Feeding  Standard 
RATION  No.  2. 
Alfafa—  18  Ibs.   .  . 
Corn—  10  Ibs.  .  .  . 

Lbs. 
30.00 

16.49 
8.91 

Lbs. 
2.5 

1.98 
0.75 

Lbs. 
15.00 

7.13 

6.67 

Lbs. 
0.5 

0.22 
0.43 

1:6.5 

Corn—  10  Ibs.   .   .   . 
Cottonseed  meal— 
3  Ibs.   . 

8.91 
2.75 

0.79 
1.11 

6..07 
1.50 

0.43 
0.37 

RATION  No.  3. 
C'ns'd  hulls—  20  Ibs. 

24.40 
1778 

2.77 
0.06 

13.80 
66? 

0.65 
0.34 

1:5.2 

4  59 

1  86 

0  84 

0  61 

00  CA 

0  AO 

ic  ny 

A  qc 

1  -7 

22.37 

1.92 

7.46 

0.95 

1:5 

WATER     The  water  supply  should  be  pure  and  abundant,  not  less  than 
10  gallons  a  day  for  each  head  of  cattle. 

SALT  Salt  is  a  necessity  to  animals  under  heavy  feeding.  On  the  whole, 
tests  indicate  advantage  in  keeping  salt  before  them  all  the  time, 
as  then  they  will  net  take  an  over  quantity.  Page  46  we  show  how  to  mix 
a  medicated  stock  salt  (9  parts  common  barrel  salt  to  1  part  Conkey's  Stock 
Tonic)  at  a  cost  of  less  than  2*/2  cents  a  pound.  This  mixture  should  be  kept 
where  the  stock  can  help  themselves  any  time.  It  not  only  prevents  indiges- 
tion, but  aids  in  keeping  stock  worm-free.  It  also  wards  off  many  danger- 
ous diseases  and  acts  as  a  general  conditioner. 

A  TAXING  Fattening  is  a  taxing  process.  Read  again  the  comment  on 
PROCESS  digestion  and  palatability.  Be  prepared  'to  find  fattening 
cattle  slowing  down  after  a  few  weeks  of  the  fattening  pro- 
gram,— not  relishing  their  food  so  fully  as  at  first,  and  not  making  uniform 
gains.  Fattening  is  an  unnatural  process;  and  it  takes  the  feeder's  wits 
to  get  the  upperhand  cf  old  nature.  Read  again  the  comments  on  Stock 
Tonic  (see  index),  and  make  sure  you  get  the  worth  of  the  fattening  feed 
by  mixing  with  it  this  tonic  and  appetizer.  The  animal's  crowded  paunch 
is  a  tax  on  his  powers.  Notice  his  audible  breathing.  The  absorptive 
powers  of  the  tissue  are  being  taxed  to  their  utmost.  It  is  necessary  to 
come  to  the  aid  of  nature.  Conkey's  Stock  Tonic  is  an  alterative  and 


RIGHT  FEEDING 


43 


appetizer.  It  is  an  excellent  tonic,  and  acts  directly  on  the  walls  of 
the  blood  vessels, — increasing  their  contractile  power  and  thus  invigorating 
circulation.  While  the  dose  should  be  only  ^2  tablespoon  in  the  feed  twice 
daily  the  first  two  days,  after  that  it  should  be  increased  to  1  full  tablespoon- 
ful  at  each  feeding.  Full  directions  are  given  on  the  package.  There  is  no 
danger  in  the  use  of  this  Stock  Tonic.  It  is  scientifically  compounded  of 
pure  drugs,  each  a  specific.  It  is  already  mixed,  in  virgin  dry  state,— net 
contaminated  and  made  expensive  by  the  addition  of  a  useless  "filler." 

The  fattening  process  is  an  expensive  one;  and  it  is  necessary  for 
the  beef  grower  to  cut  it  down  to  as  short  a  time  as  safely  profitable, 
and  thus  to  help  out  nature,  if  he  expects  to  get  the  worth  of  his  time, 
investment  and  labor. 


CALVES  Calves  destined  for  the  butcher  should  be  fed  whole  milk  from 
the  dams,  but  not  more  than  2  quarts  three  times  a  day,  lest 
indigestion  and  scouring  follow.  As  the  calf  grows,  increase  gradually, 
but  feed  sparingly  the  first  month.  The  calf  should  be  taught  to  eat  solid 
food,  such  as  shelled  corn,  whole  oats,  wheat  bran,  oilmeal,  hay,  etc., 
before  ever  weaned,  simply  by  rubbing  the  mouth  with  some  grain  after 
each  milk  meal.  Do  net  put  grain  in  the  milk,  for  it  will  be  swallowed 
without  chewing.  The  calf  has  good  grinders,  and  at  4  to  6  weeks  can 
do  its  own  grinding.  After  weaning  it  can  be  put  at  once  on  regular 
ration  of  the  above  feeds,  with  alfalfa  hay  or  clover.  All  calves  are  justly 
entitled  to  clover;  and  if  there  is  any  shortage,  they  should  not  be  the 


animals  to  suffer.  In  summer  the  grain  ration  can  be  cut  down,  and  the 
animal  put  on  pasture  of  white  clover  and  blue  grass  or  alfalfa.  There 
is  nothing  like  grass  for  fleshmaking.  In  winter,  silage  or  roots  will  keep 
these  youngsters  sappy  and  growing.  In  cases  where  the  whole  milk 
cannot  be  spared  for  the  calves  skim  milk  may  be  substituted,  with  lower 
though  satisfactory  gains  in  development.  Corn  meal  or  some  fattening 
grain  should  be  used  with  a  skim  milk  ration. 

Of  course  a  calf  intended  to  grace  the  dairy  should  not  be  crowded, 
but   simply  fed  for  normal   sturdy   development.     Never  let   a   dairy  type 


44 


CONKEY'S   STOCK  BOOK 


calf  go  above  2  Ibs.  of  grain  daily,  which  is  the  very  limit.  Too  heavy 
fattening  feed  will  tend  to  change  the  type  entirely;  and  instead  of  a 
dairy  beauty,  you'll  have  a  young  beef  to  fit  for  market. 

A  CONKEY  CALF      To   make   a   sturdy   calf,   add  to   the   ration   a  scant 
dose  of  Conkey's  Stock  Tonic.     Just  a  little  will  be 

enough,  say  twice  daily  a  half-tablespoonful  to  three  or  four  youngsters. 
The  Stock  Tonic  will  destroy  worms;  and  as  a  tonic  and  appetizer  will 
insure  full  body  development  from  the  food  taken  into  the  young  animal's 
stomach.  This  is  a  time  when  you  want  to  watch  for  every  possible  gain. 
A  young  calf  will  make  better  gains  for  grain  than  an  older  calf,  and  should 
have  all  it  will  eat. 

The  uniformly  fine  and  safe  results  from  the  moderate  use  of  the  Stock 
Tonic  with  young  animals,  calves,  lambs,  etc.,  is  a  positive  test  of  its 
freedom  from  dangerous  drugs,  and  guarantees  its  safety  for  more  or 
less  continuous  periods  as  a  conditioner  for  any  animal. 


BABY  BEEF      It  takes   two   to   make   good   baby  beef — a  feeder  who   is 
a   specialist   at   it,   and   a   good   specimen    of   a   beef  breed. 
Both  feeder  and   calf  must  do   their  part.      Buyers   show   a   strong  liking 
for  choice  light  yearling  stock,  that 
is,   "baby   beef,"   as   against  heavy- 
weight   but    long    fed    steers;    and 
after  all  your  trouble  with  the  lat- 
ter,     getting      them      choice      and 
smoothly  finished,  the  price  is  apt 
to  be  lower  than  it  should  be;  while 
"baby   beef"    is    a    specialty   worth 
any  man's  attention. 


GREGORY'S      Gregory's     experi- 
CALF  ment  at  Iowa  Col- 

lege developed  an 
800  Ib.  calf  in  one  year,  treating  as 
follows:  After  the  first  suckling,  the 
calf  was  taken  from  the  cow,  but 
for  two  weeks  received  the  cow's 
milk  whole,  then  changed  to  skim 
milk  gradually.  For  first  month 
about  4  quarts  were  allowed  to  a 
feed,  then  raised  to  6  quarts. 
Ground  corn  and  oats,  or  bran  and 
ground  corn,  were  allowed  soon  as 
the  calf  could  eat  grain.  During 
an  attack  of  scours  blood  flour  (Iteaspoonful)  was  allowed  with  the  milk; 
blood  flour  was  recommended  for  unthrifty  calves.  For  roughage  this  calf 
had  clover  or  alfalfa. 


Making  good  "Baby  Beef" 


KENNEDY'S  CALF     Everybody    has    heard    of    Prof.    Kennedy's    calf, 
Shamrock   II,   Grand   Champion   steer  of  the    1910 

International.  An  Aberdeen  Angus,  calved  January  10,  1910,  according 
to  the  record,  he  was  taken  to  Iowa  State  Agricultural  College  May  1. 
At  that  time  he  weighed  346  Ibs.  He  was  put  on  a  nurse  cow,  and  allowed 
the  run  of  a  grass  lot  at  night,  keeping  to  the  barn  during  the  day.  Up' 
to  September  1  he  was  fed  good  clover  hay,  all  he  would  eat  (the  state 


RIGHT  FEEDING 45 

paid),  and  a  grain  ration  of  3  parts  corn,  2  parts  wheat  bran  and  1  part 
oil  meal.  Weight  September  1,  was  822  Ibs.  He  was  then  put  on  two  nurse 
cows,  fed  green  corn,  stalks  and  ears,  clover  hay  and  roots,  with  boiled 
wheat  and  oats  for  grain.  On  October  1  he  weighed  941  pounds;  Novem- 
ber 1,  1,060  pounds.  During  this  month  he  was  eating  from  nine  to 
eleven  pounds  a  day  of  the  cooked  feed,  about  twenty-five  pounds  a  day 
of  roots  and  five  pounds  of  clover  hay,  in  addition  to  the  milk  of  the 
nurse  cows.  He  never  missed  a  feed  from  May  1  until  sold  in  Chicago; 
and  never  appeared  the  least  bit  nervous  or  restless. 

He  weighed  December  1  when  sold  at  auction  1,120  pounds  and 
brought  the  show  price  (of  course  a  fancy  price)  of  60c  per  pound, 
netting  $672,  the  second  highest  price  on  record. 

This  development  was  phenomenal,  but  one  rather  expects  the  phenom- 
enal when  a  calf  is  sent  to  college  and  given  all  possible  early  advantages. 
The  lesson  is  plain.  It  "takes  two  things  to  make  a  baby  beef,"  breeding 
and  feeding. 

Look  around.  Maybe  on  your  place  there  is  some  promising  young- 
ster. Maybe  you  yourself  can  show  something  as  good  as  Kennedy's  calf. 

3.    Feeding  the  Horse 

TIMOTHY— OATS     It's  little   we  give  the  horse— that  is  little  variety. 

Timothy    hay    for    roughage,    oats    for    concen- 
trates-— that's  the  usual  menu  in  most  horse  mangers. 

Of  course  the  roughage  varies  with  the  section — in  the  south  maybe 
a  horse  would  be  given  corn  blades,  on  the  western  coast  mostly  barley 
or  alfalfa;  in  some  western  sections,  prairie  grass.  But  on  the  whole 
there  is  a  limited  variety,  and  all  in  all,  timothy  is  the  leader. 

CLOVER — ALFALFA   Timothy  has  good  fuel  value,  and  lots  of  energy; 
but   clover   and   alfalfa   are   also   excellent,   if   not 

fed  too  liberally.  A  good  plan  is  to  combine  clover  hay  and  timothy, 
making  a  substantial,  not  too  bulky  roughage.  Oats,  with  these,  make  a 
combination  of  all  the  needed  elements.  Oats  are  bulky  as  grain;  so 
when  oats  are  fed  less  hay  is  needed. 

FEEDING  POINTERS  Most  horses  get  more  hay  than  is  good  for  them. 
Hay  is  bulky  and  'distends  the  digestive  organs. 

Feed  enough  and  just  that.  More  only  hinders,  and  much  more  is  pos- 
itively dangerous. 

Never  feed  musty  hay.  The  fine  mold  is  sure  to  get  into  the  lungs 
and  windpipe,  and  set  up  disorders.  If  dusty,  sprinkle  the  hay  in  the 
manger,  so  that  the  dust  will  not  seriously  affect  the  animal  in  breathing. 

Some  feeders  don't  stop  to  consider  that  the  horse's  stomach  is  small. 
If  he  is  fed  grain  first,  then  a  bulky  ration  of  hay,  then  watered,  clearly 
all  this  cannot  find  place  in  the  stomach  at  once,  and  the  most  important 
nutritive  first  part  of  the  meal  is  pushed  out  before  fully  acted  upon  by 
the  stomach. 

Water  first,  then  feed  a  little  hay,  and  then  the  concentrated  grain 
part  of  the  ration.  Besides,  feeding  grain  first  encourages  bolting,  as  the 
horse  is  usually  hungry.  Hay  cannot  be  so  easily  bolted. 

Mixed  grains  have  a  better  value  than  the  same  grains  fed  separately. 
This  seems  to  be  true  with  all  animals. 


46 CONKEY'S  STOCK  BOOK 

The  teeth  of  the  horse  are  very  important,  as  they  perform  the  first 
process  of  digestion.  If  too  irregular  the  food  cannot  be  masticated  prop- 
erly and  the  animal  loses  a  good  part  of  the  starch  value.  The  stomach 
has  no  power  to  act  on  starch  elements,  and  the  intestines  are  taxed  for  the 
whole  work  of  digestion. 

BONE  AND  When  you  feed  a  horse,  you  are  feeding  for  bone  and 
MUSCLE  muscle.  For  this  the  very  best  choice  is  blue  grass  pas- 

ture and  oats.  But  all  the  legumes,  such  as  alfalfa,  clover, 
cow  peas,  etc.,  make  highly  nutritious  roughage,  rich  in  substance  for 
bone  and  muscle.  Among  the  concentrated  feeds,  choose  from  such  val- 
uable ones  as  wheat  bran,  linseed  meals,  buckwheat  midlings,  cow  peas, 
soy  beans,  Canadian  field  peas,  etc.  In  the  case  of  a  young  horse,  if  you 
think  he  is  not  making  proper  bone,  give  him  a  little  good  tankage 
(flesh  meal  by-product  from  the  slaughter-house) — a  few  ounces  daily;  or 
an  ounce  of  ground  bone  or  ground  rock  phosphate. 

THE  COLT  The  colt  should  have  special  feeding  attention,  for  the  right 
start  means  a  future  good  animal.  After  the  first  week 
(during  which  feed  the  dam  a  little  sparingly),  both  dam  and  colt  can  go 
on  pasture.  When  the  dam  is  fed  grain,  put  her  feed  box  low  enough  for 
the  colt  also.  He  will  nose  it,  nibble,  and  soon  learn  to  eat  grain  himself 
Then  by  the  age  of  five  months  when  the  youngster  is  weaned,  there  will 
be  no  setback.  At  weaning  time,  remember  the  colt  has  been  used  to 
getting  food  from  the  dam  often;  so  keep  a  good  supply  of  mixed  feed, 
corn,  oats,  bran  moistened  down  with  a  little  water.  With  this  in  the  feed 
trough  all  the  time,  good  water  and  pasture,  the  little  fellows  will  get 
over  the  hard  break  in  their  habits  and  suffer  no  dangerous  setback. 

Never  begrudge  grain  to  the  colt.  Up  to  1  year  give  a  grain  allowance 
of  2  to  3  Ibs.  daily;  from  1  to  2  years  give  4  to  5  Ibs. 

THE  STALLION      The  stallion  needs  good  sound  oats,  varied  with  corn 
or  barley.     Wheat  bran  should  be  added  to  his  grain 

ration;  for  it  is  one  of  the  best  regulators  and  also  rich  in  nutritive  ele- 
ments. Feed  only  what  will  be  eaten  with  relish,  and  any  left  over 
immediately  take  out  of  the  feedbox.  See  that  all  hay  is  bright  and  clean. 

Conkey's  Stock  Tonic  is  successfully  used  for  stallions,  because  it 
acts  as  a  regulator  of  the  body  functions,  insures  full  digestion  of  the 
food  taken  into  the  stomach,  stimulates  the  walls  of  the  blood  vessels  to 
proper  activity;  hence  increases  circulation,  quickly  repairs  the  wasted 
tissue,  and  carries  away  the  refuse  of  dead  cells,  energy  poisons,  etc.  We 
do  not  advise  its  use  all  the  time.  It  is  not  itself  a  feed,  simply  a 
tonic,  alterant  and  general  regulator.  When,  however,  it  is  used  in  small 
quantities  as  the  medical  element  in  a  general  stock  salt  according  to  the 
formula  below,  it  can  be  safely  put  before  the  stallion  all  the  time.  He 
will  take  it  according  to  his  natural  horse  sense  of  what  is  needed  for  his 
requirements.  You  can  trust  him  not  to  overdose  himself,  provided  you  let 
him  have  access  to  it  all  the  time. 

FORMULA  FOR  Take  90  Ibs.  barrel  salt  and  10  Ibs.  Conkey's  Stock 
STOCK  SALT  Tonic.  Mix  thoroughly,  and  put  where  each  animal 

can  help  itself.     Keep   dry.     A  pound  of  this  mixture 
will  last  a  horse  about  two  weeks,  ordinarily. 


RIGHT   FEEDING 47 

THE  BROOD  MARE  The  brood  mare  is  best  kept  on  pasture.  Of 
course  if  pasture  is  insufficient,  grain  should  be 

added.  Brood  mares  need  bulk  and  not  concentrate,  and  their  feed  should 
give  plenty  of  crude  protein  arid  bone  making  material.  Bran  is  helpful, 
especially  near  time  of  foaling,  as  it  keeps  the  bowels  in  open  condition. 

The  brood  mare  can  safely  have  donkey's  Stock  Tonic  mixed  with  her 
regular  feed  according  to  directions,  giving  her  this  tonic  treatment  every 
few  weeks  during  gestation,  to  improve  the  blood  and  regulate  the  body 
functions.  Or,  a  simpler  way  would  be  to  mix  up  a  regular  tonic  salt  as 
follows  and  leave  it  before  her  all  the  time: 

90  Ibs.  common  barrel  salt, 

10  Ibs.  Conkey's  Stock  Tonic. 

Mix  thoroughly,  and  keep  dry,  and  leave  it  where  the  animal  can  get 
at  it  any  time.  The  brood  mare  will  not  overdose  herself  if  she  is  given 
access  to  this  salt  preparation  all  the  time.  She  will  simply  take  it  as  she 
needs  it;  and  no  veterinarian  could  tell  better  than  she  herself  just  what 
she  needs  and  when  she  needs  it.  This  cheaply  mixed  Stock  Salt  will  aid 
in  keeping  her  whole  system  in  fine  condition;  that  is,  well  nourished  and 
with  no  strain  on  digestion;  in  fact,  it  will  insure  digestion,  which  means 
all  the  rich  bounding  blood  needed  to  manufacture  the  young  animal's 
body  as  well  as  to  maintain  the  dam  in  good  strength  and  function. 

THE  TROTTER  The  trotter,  in  winter,  should  go  on  half  ration — 
to  keep  out  of  danger  of  fat  around  the  heart  and  on 

the  intestines.  Good  clean  hay,  and  a  few  carrots  occasionally  make  a 
good  roughage.  Of  course  when  out  in  the  field  during  winter,  oats  twice 
a  day  will  be  necessary  for  body  heat.  In  spring,  when  shedding,  bran 
mashes  are  in  order.  The  bran  is  better  than  flaxfeed  meal,  which  would 
tend  to  relax  the  system  suddenly.  As  he  begins  his  season's  training,  be 
should  have  8  to  10  quarts  a  day  with  less  roughage  but  always  as  much 
hay  as  he  will  eat  up  with  relish,  and  none  left  over.  No  corn,  no  carrots. 
1  .c!~  n:r"h,  say,  once  a  week  to  keep  the  digestive  tract  open.  As  fast 
work  commences,  make  more  liberal  feeding  allowance,  12  to  13  quarts 
rrirjr  the  usual  good  average.  Oats  is  the  one  best  feed  for  the  trotter, 
where  expense  is  not  any  consideration.  The  trotter  in  winter  will  hardly 
need  the  pure  Stock  Tonic  treatment.  But  we  advise  that  he  have  regular 
access  to  a  special  veterinary  salt  made  up  as  follows.  This  will  serve 
as  a  mild  appetizer  and  regulator;  and  when  he  can  get  it  just  when  he 
wants  it  there  is  no  danger  of  his  taking  too  much: 

90  Ibs.  common  salt, 

10  Ibs.  Conkey's  Stock  Tonic. 

Mix  thoroughly,  and  keep  in  a  dry  place,  where  the  animal  can  get  it 
any  time.  But  when  the  trotter  begins  his  season's  training,  be  sure  to 
put  him  on  regular  treatment  with  Conkey's  Stock  Tonic,  for  about  two 
weeks.  Then  again,  as  fast  work  commences,  give  him  Conkey's  Stock 
Tonic  to  take  care  of  the  extra  demand  on  digestion  and  the  heavier 
feeding  ration. 

THE  CARRIAGE     The  carriage  horse  should  also  have  oats  as  the  main 

HORSE  ration.     Nothing  like  oats  to  give  the  carriage  horse 

mettle.      A    little    barley    or    rolled    wheat    with    bran 

will  give  variety;  8  to  10  quarts  is  the  proper  average,  the  best  feed  being 
at  night.  Of  course  add  roughage,  usually,  long  hay,  as  the  carriage 
horse  can  take  plenty  of  time  for  his  munching.  Don't  feed  too  much 
hay  bulk.  When  not  exercised  each  day,  bran  mash  morning  and  night 
will  be  best,  with  the  oats  for  the  noon  mid-feeding. 


48 CONKEY'S  STOCK  BOOK 

The  carriage  horse  should  have  occasional  tonic  treatment  with  Con- 
key's  Stock  Tonic.  His  concentrated  diet  calls  for  just  such  a  digestive 
aid,  as  well  as  a  tonic  and  regulator.  The  carriage  horse  should  always* 
have  access  to  a  veterinary  salt  made  up  as  follows: 

10  Ibs.  Conkey's  Stock  Tonic, 

90  Ibs.  common  barrel  salt. 

Mix  thoroughly,  keep  in  a  dry  place,  where  the  horse  can  help  himself 
just  when  he  wants  it.  He  will  not  overeat  it,  when  it  is  before  him  all 
the  time. 

THE  WORK  The  work  horse  usually  has  years  of  usefulness;  perhaps 
HORSE  on  account  of  his  regular  working  and  regular  feeding. 

10  to  18  Ibs.  of  concentrates  make  perhaps  the  best  ration. 
Work  horses  need  more  concentrates  and  less  roughage.  Some  horsemen 
do  not  consider  it  best  to  feed  work  horses  at  mid  day.  Of  course,  if  so 
fed,  only  concentrates  should  be  given.  Never  feed  the  work  horse  heavily 
on  days  when  it  is  compelled  to  stand  idle,  or  paralysis  or  some  similar 
disorder  will  follow.  Rich  concentrated  food  is  the  ration  for  the  hard 
worked  horse,  because  more  easily  and  quickly  digested.  For  light  work, 
lighten  the  concentrates  and  increase  the  roughage. 

The  work  horse,  with  his  concentrated  ration,  and  -heavy  tax  on  diges- 
tion, should  always  have  before  him  a  special  salt  made  up  as  follows: 

90  Ibs.  common   barrel   salt, 

10  Ibs.  Conkey's  Stock  Tonic. 

He  will  help  himself  just  as  he  needs  it,  if  it  is  kept  before  him  all 
the  time  (in  a  dry  place).  Try  this  economical  easy  plan  of  letting  the 
work  animal  be  his  own  "hoss  doctor."  Watch  him  carefully.  He  usually 
gets  along  better  than  his  less  useful  horse  brethren.  But  watch  for 
slight  disorders,  and  correct  them  before  they  grow  serious.  In  case  of 
digestive  trouble  or  functional  disorder  due  to  strain  of  digestive  powers, 
or  to  internal  parasites,  or  to  poor  circulation,  immediately  put  the  animal 
on  regular  treatment  with  Stock  Tonic,  which  will  bring  him  around  to 
normal  quickly. 

SOME  PRACTICAL  Here  are  some  selected  rations  that  have  proved 
RATIONS  successful  with  horses  variously  bred  and  used, 

and   in   various    sections: 

For  Colts  (trotting  bred)  : 

Weaning  time — Oats,  2  Ibs.;  hay,  unlimited. 
One-year-old — Oats,  4  Ibs.;  hay,  unlimited. 
Two-year-old — Oats,  6  Ibs.;  hay,  unlimited. 

In  Training: 

Two-year-old — Oats,  8  Ibs.;  hay,  unlimited. 
Three-year-old — Oats,  8  to  12  Ibs.;  hay,  unlimited. 

Race  Horse: 

Oats,  15  Ibs.;  hay,  6  to  8  Ibs. 

Hack: 

Oats,  8  Ibs.;  hay,  12  Ibs. 
Carriage  (light  work) : 

Oats,  16  Ibs.;  hay,  12  Ibs. 
Draft  (heavy  work) : 

Oats,  13  Ibs.;  horse  beans,  6  Ibs.;  corn,  3  Ibs.;  chaffed  clover  hay,  15  Ibs. 


RIGHT   FEEDING 


49 


Farm  Horses: 

At  light  work— Oats,  8  to  10  Ibs.;  hay,  6  to  9  Ibs.;  straw,  3  Ibs. 
At  medium  work — Oats,  10  Ibs.;  hay,  10  Ibs.;  straw,  3  Ibs. 
At  heavy  work — Oats,  13  Ibs.;  hay,  12  Ibs.;  straw,  3  Ibs. 
Draft  Horses  (1,600  Ibs.  wt.)  at  heavy  work: 
Summer — Oats,  19  Ibs.;  hay,  13  Ibs. 

Winter — Oats,  \2l/2  Ibs.;  hay,  10  Ibs.;  corn,  6^4  Ibs.;  ground  grain,  4  Ibs. 
Farm  Horses  (various  tests) : 

New   Hampshire — Bran,  2  Ibs.;  corn,  6  Ibs.;  gluten  meal,  6  Ibs.;  hay, 

10  Ibs. 
Massachusetts — Oats,  3.3  Ibs.;  crushed  corn,  2.7  Ibs.;  provender,  6  Ibs.; 

wheat  bran,  2  Ibs.;  hay,  18  Ibs. 
New  Jersey — Corn  meal,  6.3  Ibs.;  dried  brewers'  grains,  6.2  Ibs.;  hay) 

8  Ibs. 
Utah  (1)— Bran  and  shorts  (1:1)  12.6  Ibs.;  alfalfa  hay,  16  Ibs. 

(2) — Oats,  12  Ibs.;  timothy  hay,  13  Ibs. 
Michigan: 

Morning — Oat  straw,  5  Ibs.;  carrots,  4  Ibs.;  ear  corn,  3  Ibs. 
Noon — Timothy  hay,  4  Ibs.;  oats,  2  Ibs. 

Night — Shredded  corn  stalk,  8  Ibs.;  carrots,  4  Ibs.;  mixture  of  beet 
pulp,  bran  and  oil  cake,  2  Ibs. 


4.     Feeding  Sheep 


THE  BRITISH  Can  we  hope  to  rival  British  mutton?  Feed  experts 
METHOD  say  the  difference  is  mainly  due  to  the  difference  in 

treatment  of  the  flocks.  The  British  flock  is  kept  in  a 
condition  of  content  and  plenty.  Compare  them  with  what  you  know  to 
be  average  conditions  for  sheep  in  this  country!  Often  the  point  of  view 
here  is  to  see  how  little  we  need  feed  the  flock.  We  boast  of  sheep  as 
plant  scavengers  on  the  farm  and  let  them  go,  nibbling,  nibbling,  close 
and  closer  cropping, — grasses,  shrubs,  roots,  cereal  grain,  leaves,  twigs, 
bark  of  trees  all  disappear  before  them.  Weeds  and  brush  are  quickly 
cleaned  up  from  waste  land  and  neglected  corners.  The  sheep  will  stand 
it,  do  pretty  well  on  it,  but  so  long  as  we  count  on  sheep  for  this  sort  of 
farm  help,  we  must  not  expect  the  results  which  follow  the  liberal  English 
system. 

The  English  flock  owner  does  not  try  to  see  how  little  he  need  feed 
his  sheep.  He  works  to  see  what  system  of-  feeding  will  most  benefit  his 
pocket.  He  doesn't  call  a  feed  expensive  if  he  knows  it  produces.  For 
instance,  oil  cake  and  roots  are  well-nigh  universal  feed  stuffs  among 
British  sheep  men.  From  95  to  100  Ibs.  of  roots  are  fed  per  week,  per 
100  Ibs.  of  live  weight. 

Here  are  three  specimen  cases  of  British  feeding  rations,  with  daily  and 
total  gains  on  average: 


No.  of 
Animals 

No.  of 
Days 

Breed 

Average  Ration 

Average 
Weight 

Av.  Daily 
Gain 

Av.  Total 
Gain 

20 
8 

102 
121 

Oxford 
Cotswold 

f  Linseed  cake    .          .   .  0.3  Ib. 
J  Barley  0.3  Ib. 
Hay  0.4  Ib. 
Swedes  22.9  Ibs. 
(Cotton-seed  cake    .   .   .1.6  Ibs. 
KHay                                   1.0  Ib. 

128 
132 

0.43 
0.33 

42 
41 

38 

93 

Half-bred 

(  Roots  15.    Ibs. 
f  Bombay  cotton  cake  .   .  0.3  Ib.  ~| 
J  Dried  distillers'  grains  .  0.3  Ib.    1 
1  Hay  .                          .   .  0.4  Ib.    f 

119 

0.40 

36 

[Swedes  13.    Ibs.J 

50 CONKEY'S  STOCK  BOOK 

SHEEP  FEEDING         Grinding   grain   for   a   sheep    is    almost   ridiculous. 
POINTS  If  he  is  a  good  sheep  he  is  a  good  grist  mill, — and 

if  neither,  he  isn't  worth  feeding.  Grain  and  rough- 
age should  not  be  fed  together, — first  the  grain,  then  the  rough- 
age, then  water.  The  grain  trough  must  be  clean  of  course  and  big 
enough  to  give  each  animal  a  show,  about  15  inches  for  each.  The 
feeding  racks  for  roughage  should  be  large  enough  to  hold  roughage  enough 
for  several  days.  Don't  make  the  mistake  of  routing  your  sheep  out  for 
breakfast  too  early — no  need  to  hurry  them;  they'll  do  better  if  you  let 
their  breakfast  go  until  after  daybreak. 

THE  LAMBS  It  is  well  to  accustom  the  lambs  to  a  little  grain.  The 
same  old  rule  seems  to  hold  with  all  animals, — grain  gives 
most  thrifty  gains  when  fed  early.  When  about  two  weeks  old  the  lambs 
will  commence  nibbling  and  should  then  be  fitted  out  with  a  lamb-creep — 
a  special  enclosure  running  off  from  the  ewe's  enclosure.  Let  the  little 
lambs  go  back  and  forth  as  they  please,  to  and  from  their  mothers.  In 
the  lamb-creep  have  a  drinking  trough  especially  for  them,  and  some  meal, 
such  as  corn  meal,  ground  oats,  etc.  They  will  get  a  little  on  their  muzzles, 
experiment  again,  and  by  and  by  develop  a  taste  for  it.  Don't  let  it  lie 
around  to  get  musty  and  stale,  as  it  soon  will  do  after  it  is  ground. 
Just  feed  enough  each  time  so  they  will  eat  it  all  up  with  relish  and 
thankfulness. 

See  that  water  is  in  the  trough,  so  they  can  get  it  just  as  they  want 
it.  You  may  surprise  yourself  seeing  how  much  little  lambs  will  drink  if 
you  just  let  them.  Get  over  the  idea  that  milk  is  enough  "drink"  for 
lambs,  or  even  human  babies.  These  little  fellows  get  thirsty,  and  there 
is  only  one  thing  that  will  satisfy  thirst — pure  water. 

Accustom  them  to  pasture  gradually, — this  is  the  rule  for  all  animals. 
After  pasture,  grain  feeding  is  dropped  for  the  ewes;  but  another  "lamb 
creep"  must  run  out  from  the  pasture,  and  there  should  still  be  a  little 
grain  in  the  lamb  creep  to  supply  the  little  friskers.  Oat,  bran  or  cornmeal 
are  the  usual  meals  used  for  this  purpose.  Oats  and  bran  are  excellent 
for  development. 

By  four  months  the  lambs  should  be  thoroughly  weaned  and  separated 
from  the  ewes.  Then  they  should  be  put  on  new  pasture.  Always  give 
them  the  best, — if  any  clover,  let  them  have  that.  On  clean  new  pasture 
they  will  gain  rapidly  and  not  run  great  risk  from  stomach  worms. 
Stomach  worms  are  sure  to  attack  them  if  allowed  to  run  with  the  old 
flock,  and  you  will  have  to  fight  the  worms  with  Conkey's  Stock  Tonic  or 
lose  your  little  sheep.  Read  what  is  said  below  about  the  home-mixed 
stock  salt — for  use  with  sheep.  Even  little  lambs  can  safely  have  access  to 
this  anti-parasite  mixture  and  it  will  counteract  the  great  danger  from 
letting  them  run  with  the  old  infested  sheep. 

Don't  forget  to  keep  up  the  grain  ration  for  the  lambs,  however,  even 
if  on  excellent  pasture.  You  want  those  big  economical  gains  which 
come  from  early  grain  feeding. 

NEED  OF  A  We  have  spoken  of  roots  and  their  special  value  as  a 
REGULATOR  tonic  and  regulator. 

In    Conkey's    Stock    Tonic    we    have    a    compound, 

chiefly  ground  roots,  of  medicinal  value.  Mixed  with  the  regular  feed  this 
can  be  used,  and  will  give  a  root-tonic  effect  right  along  with  the  feeding. 
In  fact  Stock  Tonic  is  particularly  adapted  to  sheep,  as,  in  addition  to 
other  qualities  it  has  in  it  certain  ingredients  which  act  as  worm  destroyers. 


RIGHT  FEEDING 


51 


Sheep  need  regular  treatment  with  such  a  vermifuge;  for  worms  are  the 
great  sheep  parasite.     Less  than  *4  tablespoonful  is  needed  for  each  sheep. 

THE  EWE  The  breeding  ewe  in  winter  should  have  a  carefully  selected 
ration,  one  that  will  keep  her  gaining  about  a  quarter  pound 
a  day.  Too  much  grain  is  fattening,  but  a  half  pound  of  some  good  con- 
centrate, fed  with  2  Ibs.  of  mixed  hay  and  from  2  to  3  Ibs.  of  corn  silage, 
corn  forage  or  roots,  will  do  nicely  and  cost  about  2  cents  per  day  on  the 
average.  Keep  digestion  perfect  by  occasional  tonic  treatment  with 
Conkey's  Stock  Tonic.  Conkey's  Stock  Tonic  added  to  the  regular  feed 
always  makes  it  more  palatable. 

"FLUSHING"  English  shepherds  make  a  practice  of  "flushing"  ewes 
before  breeding.  This  means,  feeding  the  ewes  with  extra 
rations,  high  in  nutrition,  and  extra  pleasing  to  the  appetite.  This  is  kept 
up  for  two  or  three  weeks  before  breeding;  and  it  is  claimed  that  ewes 
bred  in  this  condition  are  more  likely  to  produce  twins  at  lambing.  With 
mutton  breeds  these  extra  lambs  are  always  profitable,  with  little  expense 
in  fitting  them  for  early  market. 

THE  RAM  The  ram  should  have  good,  nourishing  feed,  with  plenty  of 
protein,  and  not  too  much  carbohydrates.  Don't  let  him  get 
fat.  Give  him  muscle-making  feed,  and  keep  him  up  in  constitutional  vigor. 
Investigate  Conkey's  Stock  Tonic  for  just  this  purpose.  Give  him  an  occa- 
sional bracer  of  Conkey's  Stock  Tonic  mixed  with  his  regular  feed  and  it 
will  keep  him  in  active  condition. 

PRACTICAL      A  generally  accepted  feeding  standard  for  fattening  sheep, 
RATIONS  per  100  Ibs.  live  weight,  is  3  Ibs.  of  dry  matter  with  a  nutri- 

tive ratio  of  1   to  5.     On  this  basis  below  are  given  some 
specimen  rations,  which  come  up  fairly  well  to  this  good  standard. 


Feed 

Dry  Matter 
Lbs. 

Protein 
Lbs. 

Carbohy- 
drates 
Lbs. 

Fat 
Lbs. 

Nutritive 
Ratio 

Alfalfa  hay—  2  Ibs.    .       .    . 

1.83 

00.22 

0.79 

00.02 

Corn—  1  Ib  

0.89 

00.08 

0.67 

00.04 

' 

2.72 

00.30 

1.46 

00.06 

1:4.3 

Prairie  hay  —  2  Ibs.       

1.89 

00.07 

0.87 

00.02 

Kafir  corn  —  1  Ib  

0.85 

00.08 

0.57 

00.03 

Cottonseed  meal  —  1-5  Ib.    .    .    . 

0.23 

00.09 

0.04 

00.03 

2.97 

00.24 

1.48 

00.08 

1:7 

Corn  silage  —  2  Ibs  

0.21 

00.01 

0.11 

00.01 

Alfalfa  hay—  2  Ibs. 

183 

0022 

079 

0002 

Kafir  corn  —  1  Ib  

0.85 

00.08 

0.57 

00.03 

2.89 

00.31 

1.47 

00.06 

1:5.2 

Whatever  the  ration,  remember  that  a  good  medicated  stock  salt  will 
help  to  get  the  most  out  of  it,  increasing  palatability  and  fuller  digestion. 
There  is  no  need  to  pay  extravagant  prices  for  such  a  preventive  and 


52 CQNKEY'S  STOCK  BOOK 

conditioner.     With    little    trouble    and   a   cost    of   less   than   2l/2c   a   pound 
you  can  make  your  own  mixture: 

90  Ibs.  barrel  salt. 

10  Ibs.  Conkey's  Stock  Vigor. 

Mix  thoroughly  and  keep  in  a  dry  place,  but  where  the  sheep  can  help 
themselves  anytime.  You  can  estimate  1  pound  of  this  mixture  for  every 
sheep  for  a  period  of  10  to  12  weeks.  It  will  correct  ordinary  digestive 
troubles,  and  act  as  a  worm  destroyer  and  preventive  of  many  internal 
parasites.  It  will  actually  ward  off  disease.  Sheep  need  salt.  Try  this  easy 
and  inexpensive  Conkey  way  of  salting  them,  and  see  how  it  cuts  down 
losses  and  improves  your  flock. 

5.     Feeding  Swine 

EARLY  GAINS    Swine  are  no  exception  to  the  rule  already  stated,  that 

grain  fed  early  brings  the  biggest  proportion  of  profit. 
At  the  Wisconsin  station  experiments  with  18  pigs  of  good  feeding 
powers,  on  a  ration  of  wheat  middlings  1  part,  ground  corn  2  parts  (salt 
and  woodash  in  addition,  of  course),  during  a  test  of  12  weeks,  the  biggest 
and  cheapest  gains  were  made  early.  Gains  made  in  the  last  four  weeks 
of  this  test  cost  fully  one-third  more  than  gains  of  the  first  four  weeks 
of  the  period. 

WHAT  MAKES  Wheat  is  in  the  first  rank  for  feeding  pigs.  It  tends  to 
FIRM  BACON?  a  firm  product  and  plenty  of  lean  meat.  But  wheat  is 
expensive,  except  in  wheat  growing  sections,  although  it 
is  proved  that  frosted  wheat  is  just  as  effective  as  the  first  quality.  Barley 
also  ranks  high  for  feeding  for  bacon,  with  oats  and  peas  next  in  order. 
Under  ideal  conditions  barley,  peas  and  pats,  with  pasteurized  dairy 
products,  some  corn,  especially  at  the  finishing  period,  make  up  the  best 
feeding  standard. 

Firm  bacon  is  the  product  of  such  feeds  as  barley,  blood  meal,  bran, 
clover  hay,  wheat,  oats,  oatmeal,  rye,  shorts,  turnips,  distillers'  grain, 
tankage,  skim-milk,  whole  milk  and  whey.  Skim-milk  and  whey,  fed 
always  with  grains  such  as  corn,  make  a  solid  firm  product.  Exercise  also 
helps  to  make  this  firmness. 

CORN  THE  Pigs  fairly  well  fed  and  given  good  care  up  to  100  Ibs. 
FINISHER  can  then  be  quickly  finished  off  into  fine  bacon  with  a 
mixture  of  various  meals.  Corn  is  above  all  the  "finisher." 
Corn  as  a  feed  is  good  at  any  time,  and  always  relished  by  the  porkers; 
but  whenever  it  makes  up  more  than  one-half  the  feed  stuff  it  tends  to 
less  firmness  of  flesh  and  too  much  fat  shoulder.  Soft  pork  in  general 
is  produced  by  such  feeds  as  buckwheat,  table  refuse,  corn  and  gluten 
feeds,  while  skim-milk  added  to  these  corrects  this  tendency.  But  corn 
is  especially  good  in  cold  seasons. 

THE  GROWING      For    instance,    in    summer    a    good    combination    for 
STOCK  growing  stock  would  be  clover,  bran,  shorts,  possibly 

some  oil-meal,  supplemented  later  by  succulent  pump- 
kin and  squash  for  the  brood  sow  after  her  pigs  are  weaned.  Then  as  the 
cooler  season  approaches  corn  can  be  added  and  used  more  and  more 
liberally,  finishing,  rounding,  supplying  necessary  body-heat,  so  that  the 
pigs  can  make  the  best  growth  out  of  the  good  conditions  provided.  Young 


RIGHT  FEEDING 


growing  stock  need  nitrogenous  and  mineral  matter;  and  that  is  why 
corn  should  never  be  too  liberal  a  part  of  the  early  feeding.  Nitrogenous 
matter  for  body  tissue,  and  lime  for  bone  development,  can  be  found  in 
such  feeds  as  alfalfa,  clover,  vetch,  soy  bean,  cow  peas,  peanuts,  etc.,  —  in 
short,  the  legume  crops,  which  have  such  wonderful  value.  Of  all  forage 
crops  alfalfa  is  one  of  the  most  important.  It  is  estimated  that  5  Ibs  of 
alfalfa  will  about  equal  3  Ibs.  of  mixed  grain, 

THE  HOG  A  Grazing  is  the  cheapest  feeding  system.  For  modern 
GRAZER  profitable  hog  raising,  a  combination  of  grazing  and  feed- 

ing makes  always  the  most  economical  system,  carrying 
the  growing  pigs  nicely  over  the  summer,  ready  to  fatten.  Along  with 
alfalfa,  for  a  cheap  pasture,  rape  is  coming  more  and  more  into  recogni- 
tion. It  is  best  sown  in  drills  30  inches  apart,  and  allowed  to  get  a  foot 
high.  Some  grain  should  be  fed  in  connection  with  it. 

CORN  PLUS  Prof.  Henry,  of  Wisconsin,  preaches  a  larger  use  of  legume 
crops,  rape  and  roots,  which  make  a  cheap  growing 
ration.  A  little  corn  could  be  added;  but  liberal  corn  should  come 
at  finishing  only.  Prof.  Henry  makes  a  strong  plea  for  more 
pigs  on  this  basis:  alfalfa,  clover,  Canada  peas,  cow  peas,  soy  beans, 
peanuts,  rape,  roots,  etc.,  can  be  raised  so  much  cheaper  than  corn;  and 
besides  this,  roots  and  legume  crops  greatly  enrich  the  soil,  thus  lessening 
the  first  cost  to  the  farmer.  Such  crops  are  better  suited  to  growing 
stock,  for  they  insure  fuller  development  of  bone  and  body,  —  in  short  a 
frame  ready  at  full  term  for  the  "finishing  touches"  of  King  Corn.  Why 
should  we  limit  our  pork  output  by  the  amount  of  corn  available  for 
feeding,  when  instead,  we  could  estimate  on  corn  plus  all  such  crops  as 
alfalfa,  clover,  cow  peas,  soy  beans,  rape,  roots,  etc.?  The  market  is 
waiting  for  more  pork  products. 

SLOP  FEED  Swine  like  their  meals  sloppy.  Slop  is  usually  the  prin- 
cipal feed;  and  most  raisers  advise  plenty  of  liquid  in  the 
trough,  whatever  the  ration.  However,  the  experiment  station  tests  have 
not  yet  shown  any  advantage  in  slop  feeding  over  dry  grain.  Of  course 
the  swine  should  have  plenty  of  water,  even  with  slop  feeding.  Make 
sure  the  water  is  pure,  and  in  winter  warm  it  slightly. 

Table  slop  that  is  fresh  is  an  excellent  and  an  economical  feed  for 
hogs;  but  care  must  be  taken  to  keep  it  free  from  soapy  dishwater  and 
other  dangerous  refuse.  Lye  and  soap  powders  strong  in  sal  soda  cause 
many  mysterious  epidemics,  —  in  some  cases  mistaken  for  cholera.  There 
is  always  this  danger  in  feeding  hotel  slop,  which  in  addition  to  alkali 
may  contain  such  dangerous  substances  as  broken  glass,  crockery,  strings, 
paper,  etc.  Another  caution  is  to  be  sure  to  feed  it  fresh,  as  sour,  fer- 
mented swill  is  a  standing  invitation  to  intestinal  disease. 

TUBERCULAR  Similarly,  care  must  be  taken  with  creamery  by-pro- 
DANGER  ducts.  If  positively  pasteurized  there  is  no  danger;  but 

if  not,  your  swine  are  very  liable  to  tubercular  infection. 
Also,  if  hogs  follow  tubercular  cattle  they  are  pretty  sure  to  become  in- 
fected. It  pays  to  let  hogs  follow  the  cattle,  —  in  fact  it  is  a  low  estimate  to 
say  100  Ibs.  of  shelled  corn  fed  to  steers  will  produce  4  Ibs.  of  pork  on  hogs 
following  them;  but  make  sure  that  the  cattle  are  tested,  and  free  from 
tuberculosis. 


54 CONKEY'S  STOCK  BOOK 

MINERALS      Whatever  the   ration,  we  must  keep  in  mind  the  fact  that 
NEEDED  the  hog  is  a  rooter,  and  that  a  prime  necessity  to  his  body 

is  the  mineral  substance  he  gets  in  rooting.  When  rooting 
is  interfered  with,  his  daily  ration  must  include  the  mineral  correctives  so 
essential  to  his  big  body.  Don't  let  the  hogs  on  your  place  tear  down 
the  crumbling  masonry  for  the  sake  of  the  brick  and  mortar.  Give  them 
ashes,  charcoal,  air-slacked  lime,  bone-meal  and  ground  rock  phosphorous. 
Pigs  also  need  some  salt, — not  much  but  at  least  one  ounce  a  day.  Salt 
should  never  be  put  in  their  feed;  but  a  salt  mixture  should  be  before  them 
all  the  time,  so  that  they  can  help  themselves.  Salt  is  not  only  an  appe- 
tizer, but  it  wards  off  digestive  troubles  that  might  easily  result  in 
:serious  disorders.  Try  a  mixture  of  Conkey's  Veterinary  Salt,  made  up 
according  to  directions,  using  common  salt  from  your  own  salt  barrel 
.and  mixing  with  every  nine  pounds  a  pound  of  Conkey's  Stock  Tonic 
This  will  give  you  a  general  conditioner,  safe  to  use  all  the  year  round, 
without  danger  of  injuring  the  hogs  but  practically  insuring  against 
worms,  and  many  forms  of  intestinal  disease.  The  cost  would  be  less  than 
2^c  a  pound,  and  the  medical,  appetizing,  tonic  effects  of  the  mixture 
would  be  greater  than  any  commercial  medicated  salt  now  on  the  market. 
Less  than  2l/2c.  a  pound!  You  can  judge  for  yourself  the  saving. 

FOR  THE  Give  her  a  plentiful  ration,  as  there  are  heavy  demands 

BROOD  SOW  on  her.  She  should  have  cooling  and  laxative  foods, 
hence  not  much  corn.  For  a  few  days  before  farrowing, 
•do  not  feed  anything,  but  give  the  sow  plenty  of  agreeable  warm  water. 
After  this,  feed  mainly  thin  slop  of  oats,  shorts  and  bran,  but  no  corn. 
'Clover  and  alfalfa  cut  or  ground  and  mixed  with  the  slop  will  be  relished. 
.After  the  third  day  the  critical  period  is  over,  and  the  sow  can  be  brought 
igradually  back  to  a  full  substantial  ration — all  she  will  be  able  to  digest. 
Do  not  give  her  any  sour  milk  or  sour  slop.  A  good  milk  making  ration  is 
•wheat  bran,  shorts  and  skim-milk, — good  for  the  old  sow  and  good  for  the 
pigs  to  experiment  with  in  preparation  for  weaning. 

Don't   forget    occasional    tonic    treatment   with    Conkey's    Stock   Tonic 
to  keep  digestion  perfect  and  all  functions  normal. 

FOR  THE  BOAR  For  a  good  young  50  Ib.  herd  boar  to  make  the 
largest  possible  growth,  and  not  injure  breeding  qual- 
ities, one  authority  recommends  the  following  ration:  corn  and  bran, 
mixed  half  and  half  by  weight;  or,  one-third  corn,  one-third  bran  and  one- 
third  oats.  If  it  is  necessary  to  raise  the  corn  to  two-thirds,  use  one-third 
bran  and  add  a  little  oil  meal.  Corn  tends  to  fatten  and  must  not  be 
overfed  the  herd  boar,  or  it  will  fill  up  the  organs.  The  herd  boar  is 
always  benefited  by  Conkey's  Stock  Tonic  treatment.  The  herd  boar 
in  particular  needs  to  get  every  ounce  of  benefit  from  the  digestible 
nutrients  in  his  ration.  The  root  ingredients  in  Stock  Tonic  tone  and 
invigorate  the  system,  and  fit  it  for  all  drains  upon  it.  It  acts  directly  on 
the  walls  of  the  blood  vessels,  increasing  their  contractile  power,  which 
means  better  circulation.  Of  all  animals  the  herd  boar  needs  good,  pure 
blood,  and  that  perfect  condition  which  is  the  foundation  of  breeding 
profits.  Conkey's  Stock  Tonic  is  the  short,  scientific  cut  to  vigorous 
breeding  condition. 

t. 

SPECIMEN  RATIONS     For    fattening    and    finishing    for    market    here 
FOR  FATTENING  are    two    good    specimen    rations    well    liked    in 

the  corn  belt: 


RIGHT   FEEDING 


55 


Rations  for  2OO-lb.  Fattening  Hog 


FEED 

Dry  Matter 
Lbs. 

Protein 
Lbs. 

Carbohy- 
drates 
Lbs. 

Fat 
Lbs. 

Nutritive 
Ratio 

Feeding  Standard 
RATION  No.  1 
Corn—  7  Ibs  
Tankage—  1  Ib  

6.4 

6.24 
.93 

.8 

.55 
.32 

4.8 

4.67 
.15 

.1 

.30 
.14 

1:6.3 

RATION  No.  2 
Kafir  corn  —  8  Ibs. 

7.17 
6.78 

.87 
62 

4.82 
457 

.44 
22 

1:6.7 

Cottonseed  meal  —  ^  1L  

.46 

.19 

.08 

.06 

If  necessary  to  feed  all  corn,  estimate 
8  Ibs.  to  200  Ibs.  fattening  hog,  making 
the  following  analysis  : 

RATION  No.  3 
Corn  —  8  Ibs  

7.24 
7.13 

.81 
.63 

4.65 
533 

.28 
34 

1:6.5 
1-86 

Home  Made  Self-feeder 


56 


CONKEY'S  STOCK   BOOK 


HORSES 
I.     Raising  Good  Animals 

A  GOOD  horse:     That  means  good  breeding,  good  feeding,  good  care, 
good  training. 
High   price    never   stands   in   the   way   of    a   purchaser,    if    the 
animal  is  worth  it. 

A  good  horse  is  good  anywhere  and  good  all  over.  But  no  one  seems 
to  want  these  nondescript  animals  so  many  farm  owners  are  thoughtlessly 
raising. 

OLD  DOBBIN  The  old  type  of  farm  horse  was 
sluggish  and  slow,  fit  for  tough 
sod,  stones  and  the  stumps  of  pioneer  clearings. 
Today,  on  our  better  farms,  there  is  no  place  for 
Old  Faithful  and  his  quality  of  flesh  and  spirit. 

TAKE  IT  Today    as    Secretary    Wilson 

FROM  WILSON     points    out,    the    most     eco- 
nomical way  of  raising  good 

horses  is  right  on  the  farm  in  connection  with 
ordinary  farm  work.  The  farmer  who  raises 
horses,  i.  e.,  good  horses,  gets  two  profits  (1)  a 
profit  in  labor  and  (2)  a  profit  in  breeding.  For 
look:  Three  brood  mares  will  do  the  work  of 
two  geldings.  In  addition,  the  colts  will  easily 
pay  for  their  own  and  their  mothers'  feed.  Colts 

of  stocky  draft  breed  can  pay  part  keep  while  they  are  learning  to  work  on 
the  farm,  thus  earning  their  way  ''through  school"  the  same  as  an  ambitious 
boy  at  college.  Many  farmers  now  urge  getting  rid  of  the  geldings,  and 
putting  good  brood  mares  in  their  stead.  The  horse  on  the  farm  is  put  to 
real  work  only  about  a  third  of  the  time,  and  on  this  basis,  the  high  cost 
and  keep  of  the  gelding  hardly  pays  the  farmer.  Let  the  cities  have  him! 


Old  Dobbin 


RAISING   HORSES __ 57 

HONK,  HONK!  In  spite  of  the  automobile  the  horse  is  still  king- 
statistics  show  it.  He  is  the  motive  power  for  you, 
with  no  losing  of  bolts  or  puncturing  of  tires;  though  his  shoes  need 
looking  over  once  a  month,  his  mouth  needs  shaping  up  once  a  year,  and 
he  requires  a  tonic  occasionaly.  But  he'll  take  you  over  the  hill  or  through 
the  country  road  mud-hole  and  do  it  without  any  chug-chug  or  wheezing. 
It  costs  something  to  feed  him;  but  he  never  runs  out  of  gasoline.  When- 
sometimes  he  is  laid  up  for  repairs,  a  few  weeks  on  grass  will  do  it, 
or  the  right  sort  of  medical  treatment,  instead  of  its  taking  a  three-figure 
bill  to  rebuild  him. 

PLENTY  NEEDED   And   plenty   more   are   needed!     We   need   more   of 
this    thrifty   horse-raising   farm-economy.     There   is 

now  only  one  horse  or  mule  of  working  age  to  every  30  acres  under 
cultivation.  'Taint  you  and  'taint  me,  but  looks  like  some  of  the  neigh- 
bors are  neglecting  their  opportunities;  else  they're  running  their  farms 
with  gasoline  engines.  The  new  record  price  on  the  Chicago  market  for 
a  draft  gelding  is  $680.  Motor  trucks  have  not  injured  the  call  for  good 
style,  good  action  heavy  drafters.  The  fad  for  motor  trucks  has  lost  its 
advertising  value,  so  say  the  big  concerns.  They  are  too  expensive  to 
keep  up,  and  many  of  the  large  mercantile  houses  East  and  West  are  get- 
ting rid  of  motors  and  buying  up  fine  specimens  of  heavy  drafters. 

RAISING  COLTS    There    is    a    right    way    to    raise    colts:    from    sound 
mares    and    extra    good,    sound,    muscular    sires.      A 

stallion  cannot  be  expected  to  transmit  qualities  which  he  does  not  have. 

The  best  way  of  all  to  raise  colts  is  to  select  just  one  type  and  stick 

always  to  that  in  breeding.     Choose  for  yourself,  whether  it  is  Percheron, 


Clydesdale,  Suffolk  or  Shire;  or  instead  of  a  draft  breed  select  a  coach 
type — French,  German,  Cleveland  Bay  or  Hackney;  or  try  the  old  New 
Hampshire  favorite,  the  Morgan.  There  is  some  profit  in  colts  bred  that 
way  when  it  comes  to  finding  a  market.  Buyers  can  rely  on  your  standard. 
If  the  whole  section  joins  with  you  for  one  select  type  so  much  the 
better,  since  buyers  can  give  better  prices  when  they  can  come  and  pick 


CONKEY'S  STOCK  BOOK 


out  a  whole  carload.  There  certainly  is  a  large  and  sure  profit  in  every 
colt  of  good  draft  type,  easily  paying  back  the  extra  cost  of  the  well-bred 
mare  and  the  very  best  stallion  service.  Mares  bred  in  November  will 
foal  the  following  October,  after  most  of  the  farm  work  is  over  and  the 
flies  are  gone.  But  don't  forget  the  first  caution:  that  with  the  colt  his 
first  year's  care  is  practically  the  making  of  him. 

THE  FIRST  YEAR    To  get  the  most  out  of  a  colt  take  care  ot  mm  ngni. 
Give   him   a   good    start,   for   as   with   most   animals 

it  is  the  first  year  that  fixes  the  standard.  Don't  wean  too  suddenly,  as 
this  causes  a  setback  hard  to  make  up  later.  Give  the  weanling  some  grain 
in  his  ration — keep  him  growing.  Keep  him  thriving,  and  remember  a 
bushel  of  grain  charged  up  to  his  cost  now  will  be  worth  many  bushels 
a  few  years  later.  Give  him  all  he  will  eat  up  clean  in  the  manger  and 
none  over.  Give  plenty  of  exercise  to  harden  his  muscles  and  develop 
appetite. 

Safe  to  say  a  colt  properly  cared  for  the  first  winter,  then  given  all 
the  pasture  he  wants  the  next  summer,  will  come  through  all  right  with 
any  sort  of  decent  treatment  the  second  winter  and  be  reasonably  sure 
of  good  development.  Keep  a  lookout  for  thrush,  which  means  keeping 
the  stable  floor  clean  and  using  Nox-i-cide  Dip  and  Disinfectant  in  the 
water  when  washing  out  the  hoofs.  Also  look  for  lice  and  worms.  Thrush, 
lice  and  worms  are  the  three  pests  that  afflict  the  colts  and  fillies. 


WATCH  THE  Watch  the  feet  all  tne  tune,  tor  tne  teet  ot  toals  tre- 
COLT'S  FEET  quently  need  leveling.  Unless  the  colt  is  kept  on  grass 
or  well  exercised  the  feet  are  pretty  sure  to  develop 
unevenly,  and  faulty,  uneven  growth  will  affect  the  whole  foot  development 
and  make  the  joints  and  tendons  liable  to  inflammation.  Unevenness  will 
affect  the  upper  formation  also,  and  in  time  destroy  the  whole  balance  and 
action.  Sometimes  one  wall  of  the  hoof  is  thin,  so  that  it  wears  down 
sooner.  If  an  inner  wall,  then  naturally  that  side  runs  down  and  a  case 
of  knock-knee  or  wide-toe  develops.  Or  if  the  outer  wall  is  thinner, 
the  outside  wears  first  and  the  result  is  pigeon  toe.  Careful  and  even 


Good  fore  feet 


Crooked  fore  feet 


trimming  is  the  only  remedy.  Thus  it  is  occasionally  necessary  to  use 
the  rasp  for  symmetrical  development.  But  always  go  a  little  cautiously 
with  the  rasp,  there  is  so  much  danger  of  abusing  it.  Get  the  colt  out  on 
a  level  floor  every  month  at  least  and  see  if  his  feet  need  leveling.  Look  at 
each  foot  and  see  if  it  rests  square  and  true,  pointing  straight  to  the  front 


RAISING   HORSES 59 

and  with  the  proper  slope  of  toe-line.  It  is  the  square  gait  that  conserves 
strength  in  the  horse  and  increases  endurance.  See  to  it  that  your  colt 
grows  up  square  gaited. 

TRAINING  COLTS    About  training:     Teach  the  colt  to  be   subordinate 
at  the  start.     Handle  him,  let  him  get   accustomed 

to  it.  Teach  him  to  come  when  called.  Petting  and  a  lump  of  sugar  will 
do  it.  Don't  let  him  be  afraid  of  you  or  take  fright  at  anything.  If  he 
is  to  amount  to  anything  you  must  keep  him  courageous  and  fearless. 
Don't  let  anyone  tease  him  or  startle  him  and  take  all  the  fresh  spirit 
out  of  him.  If  there  happens  to  be  any  practical  "fooler"  in  the  neighbor- 
hood who  likes  to  scare  and  "fool"  with  a  colt,  get  rid  of  the  fooler  in 
any  prompt  sure  way  you  can  think  of,  whether  he  is  your  best  hired  hand 
or  nearest  relation. 

When  you  catch  a  colt,  don't  catch  by  the  neck  only, — like  as  not 
you  will  swing  him  and  throw  him.  Catch  with  one  hand  under  the  neck, 
the  other  under  the  hams  or  around  the  buttocks,  so  that  you  can  steady 
his  movements.  This  is  a  good  way  to  teach  the  commands  of  Whoa 
and  Get  Up  as  you  can  control  him  with  your  hands  and  move  him  for- 
ward with  every  command  of  Get  Up  and  stop  him  when  you  saw  Whoa. 
Also  teach  him  to  back  and  to  Stand  Over.  Teach  the  use  of  the  halter 
early,  first  to  lead  and  then  to  drive.  Get  the  colt  familiar  with  the  bit 
so  he  will  respond  to  commands,  before  ever  you  attempt  to  harness  him. 
In  teaching  the  colt  teach  only  useful  lessons  and  not  the  so-called  "cute 
tricks"  of  biting,  rearing  and  kicking,  which  will  have  to  be  untaught  later. 
Teach  only  one  thing  at  a  time,  but  teach  that  one  thing  thoroughly.  Be 
patient  with  the  little  fellow  but  get  his  entire  attention  for  a  short  period 
at  a  time,  and  while  von  are  teaching:  give  him  your  entire  attenion. 

Don't  forget  to  teach  your  colt  to  fast  walk  if  you  want  a  good  price 
for  him  later.  A  fast  walking  horse  can  get  through  with  about  a  third 
more  labor  than  a  slow  one,  and  he  is  valued  accordingly. 

FIRST  TIME  When  ready  for  harness  don't  use  a  new  set.  Select 
IN  HARNESS  one  that  smells  of  horse,  and  let  the  colt  nose  it  first, 
then  gently  slip  it  on  him.  Did  you  ever  see  a  thought- 
less man  sling  a  rattling,  strap-flopping  harness  over  the  back  of  a  colt 
and  then  grin  like  an  idiot  because  the  colt  took  fright?  Maybe  he  didn't 
realize  he  was  ruining  the  colt  and  makmg  him  that  much  harder  to 
manage. 

Don't  use  new  harness,  but  don't  go  to  the  other  extreme  and  use 
some  old,  worn-to-the-point-of-breaking  stuff  that  may  cause  an  accident 
and  spoil  your  colt,  for  all  time  most  likely. 

There  is  one  main  requisite  to  success  in  training — it  is  kindness. 

That  is  why  good  horsemen  don't  speak  of  "breaking"  a  horse  any 
more.  You  might  have  to  break  (or  bust)  a  bucking  broncho  but  let 
your  farm  colts  be  trained,  not  "broken." 

STOP  AND  Our  animals  are  real  agents  in  the  processes  of  civilization. 
THINK  Whether  we  keep  a  few  for  pets  or  for  their  labor,  or  for 

their  valuable  products,  all  our  dumb  animals  compel  us  to 
habits  of  kindly  care,  if  we  want  to  get  the  most  out  of  them.  Isn't  this 
thought,  a  pleasant  one  to  consider, — that  animals  cultivate  our  gentleness 
and  responsibility  as  against  any  lurking  brutality  in  us? 


60 CONKEY'S  STOCK  BOOK 

STICK  TO    You   wouldn't    have    scrub    or   mongrel    cows,    or    swine,    or 
A  TYPE         even  chickens,  on  your  farm.     It  doesn't  pay. 

It  is  the  same  with  horses,  or  more  so.  They  have  been 
bred  for  special  work,  light  or  draft  types.  You  know  what  work  you 
want;  then  select  the  type  for  it,  and  breed  for  it  every  time.  What  is 


Bred  for  hard  work 

the  little  extra  trouble  along-side  of  the  improvement  of  the  horse  stock 
on  your  place?  Any  extra  expense  is  quickly  repaid  by  the  surely  good 
colts — and  what  better  advertising  is  there  for  the  thrifty  farmer  than 
his  good  animals? 

BEST  WAY  As  stated  above,  let  the  whole  neighborhood,  better  still  the 
TO  SELL  whole  county,  select  a  type  for  breeding.  There  are  immense 
advantages.  It  advertises  the  section;  and  buyers  are  willing 
to  give  more  per  head  when  they  can  pick  up  a  whole  carload, — say  from 
$5.00  to  $10.00  more  per  animal.  But  be  sure  that  you  know  your  own 
horses:  Don't  let  the  buyer  take  all  your  best.  Keep  fully  up  to  market 
requirements  and  the  value  depending  on  soundness,  conformation,  quality, 
condition,  age,  color,  education  and  general  appearance.  Keep  in  mind  this 
fact,  that  every  animal  will  be  graded  in  the  judgment  of  the  buyer — as 
choice,  good,  medium,  common  or  inferior,  and  it's  an  individual  test. 

GOVERNMENT  AID    The    government    is    now    taking   a   hand    in    this 
business  of  breeding,  and  giving  special  attention 

to  light  and  draft  horses  of  better  type.  In  Vermont  the  federal  govern- 
ment is  co-operating  to  a  considerable  extent  to  bring  back  the  old  Morgan. 
This  old  favorite  has  always  been  loved  for  his  trim,  short  legs,  big  body, 
trappy  action  and  lofty  style.  A  few  enthusiasts  desire  to  grow  this  "big 
little  horse"  to  15.1  hands,  but  the  majority  favor  keeping  him  down  to  14.2 
or  14.3  hands.  In  Iowa  the  government  work  is  for  improving  draft  horses, 
and  in  Colorado,  heavy  carriage  horses,  by  selection  from  American  trot- 
ting horses.  All  this  is  federal  work.  Individual  states  are  waking  up  on 


RAISING   HORSES 61 

their  own  hook.  New  Jersey  has  appropriated  $20,000  to  provide  stallions 
of  good  draft  and  coach  type  for  the  use  of  farmers  in  grading  up  their 
own  stock.  With  co-operation  the  horseflesh  of  this  country  is  bound 
to  improve.  Stricter  laws  are  in  force,  beginning  January  1,  1911,  to 
insure  only  pure  bred  importations,  so  that  it  is  clear,  the  United  States 
Department  of  Animal  Husbandry  is  lending  its  aid  in  every  possible  way 
to  benefit  American  breeders.  The  government  is  confident  that  carefui 
breeding  of  live  stock  pays. 

SOME  HORSE  Since  prehistoric  times,  when  man  first  got  the  mastery 
HISTORY  of  the  now  extinct  wild  original,  the  horse  has  been 

developed  for  various  purposes  according  to  man's 
various  needs.  From  that  early  specimen  which  three  million  odd  years 
ago  lived  and  thrived  in  many  parts  of  the  world,  in  size  not  much  larger 
than  a  dog,  with  two  toes  on  his  front  feet  and  triple  cleft  on  his  hind 
feet — it's  a  long  and  interesting  story  to  the  horse  of  today.  But  for 
practical  purposes  it  is  hardly  worth  while  for  us  to  look  back  much  far- 
ther than  the  17th  century,  A.  D.,  when  Arabian  blood  horses  were  intro- 
duced into  Europe  and  marked  the  first  real  step  toward  special  improve- 
ment. It  was  by  means  of  this  Arabian  stock  that  breeders  in  England 
worked  out  their  improvements  and  reached  at  last  the  highest  types  of 
animals  we  know  today  as  English  Thoroughbreds,  Racers,  Hunters  and 
Hackneys.  It  was  from  these  in  turn  this  country  developed  the  American 
Horse,  which  we  have  perfected  chiefly  in  trotting. 

BIG  DATES  IN  The    keeping   of    studbooks    dates   from    1808   when 

HORSE  HISTORY     the    English    Thoroughbred    was    established.      But 

previous  to  that  time,  in   1797,   Diomed,  winner   of 

the  first  English  Derby,  was  imported  to  this  country.  Bull  Rock,  which 
Virginia  imported  in  1730,  is  believed  to  be  the  first  Thoroughbred  brought 
to  this  country.  But  Diomed,  then  20  years  old,  may  be  said  to  be  our 
greatest  early  importation.  In  1836  Glencoe  was  successfully  imported  and 
the  later  Leamington  was  the  next  most  important  arrival,  since  which 
there  have  been  many  and  various  importations  from  every  country. 

MADE  IN  As  already  stated,  America  has  improved  the  Thorough- 
AMERICA  breds.  These  horses  average  now  over  15  hands,  2  inches 
high  and  weigh  probably  150  Ibs.  more  than  fifty  years  ago, 
and  show  improved  individual  qualities.  This  improvement  is  thought  to 
be  due  to  ^better  natural  conditions,  since  .animals  are  housed  less  over 
here,  have  better  pasture,  and  other  conditions  better  for  their  feet,  on 
which  so  much  depends  in  horse  development.  In  general  the  changes  in 
America  have  been  along  practical  lines,  to  meet  working  needs,  rather 
than  the  demand  of  sport  or  pleasure.  The  use  of  light  vehicles  here, 
and  the  improvement  of  our  roads  have  helped  to  develop  high  trotting 
ability. 

II.     Draft  Horses 

With  most  horse-raising  communities  the  type  of  horse  selected  will 
be  one  of  the  many  draft  breeds. 

Hprs«  types  may  be  considered  under  two  main  classifications, — Draft 
and  Light  Horses. 

Draft  horses  are  the  heaviest  and  largest  of  horse  breeds,  and  have 
been  developed  to  meet  the  demand  of  cities  for  trucking  purposes.  The 
chief  draft  breeds  are — Percheron,  Belgian,  Clydesdale,  Suffolk  and  Shire. 

In  form  draft  horses  are  massive  but  low  built,  blocky,  compact, 
animals,  They  suggest  power  in  every  feature  of  their  development.  In 


62 


CONKEY'S  STOCK  BOOK 


general  we  estimate  their  value  according  to  weight,  on  the  supposition 
that  this  indicates  the  power  brought  into  the  collar.  Draft  horses  conform 
to  certain  main  essentials  of  development  and  usefulness,  as  follows: 

DRAFT  POINTS     Lean  head,  strong  and  muscular  neck,  smooth,  well-set 
shoulders,  broad  knee,  smooth,  well-sloped  pastern,  foot 

large,  well-set  and  free  in  movement  are  the  chief  conformation  points  to 
look  for  in  draft  horses. 

Quality  is  shown  by  large,  strong,  firm  bones,  with  tendons  prominent. 
Hair  fine  and  silky, — especially  the  "feather,"  the  hair  on  the  fetlock, — is 
taken  to  show  good  bone  quality,  just  as  hair  indicates  quality  in  cattle. 

Bold,  free,  regular  gait  at  a  walk  is  essential, — for  express  animals 
the  same  ease  of  gait  in  a  trot.  For  a  farm  horse,  a  good  square  walk  is 
like  a  good,  square  deal  for  men.  A  good  fast  walk  is  especially  valued 
for  the  reason  already  stated. 


A  $3,500  Brood  Mare  (Percheron),  owned  by  Gregory  Farm,  Whitehall,  111. 

GENERAL  POINTS      The   score  card  from  the   University  of   Missouri 
calls   for  generous   and   symmetrical   development, 

lively  carriage,  full  bright  clear  eye,  large  flexible  nostrils.  In  every  point 
quality  is  best  described  as  neither  coarse  nor  refined,  not  too  large  or 
too  small  in  bone,  too  massive  or  too  slender  a  leg.  In  the  entire  scale 
of  points  full  15  go  to  action, —  that  rapid,  springy,  straight  walk,  or  free 
balanced  straight  trot  so  essential  for  commercial  purposes.  Another  10 
points  go  for  weight  alone,  of  course  age  and  condition  are  also  consid- 
ered. The  forefeet  should  be  large,  even  and  sound,  hoofs  dense  and 
waxy,  sole  concave,  bars  strong,  frog  large  and  elastic;  heels  should  be 
wide,  and  the  rule  is  one-half  the  length  of  the  toe  and  set  vertical  to 
the  ground.  Full  8  points  go  to  the  forefeet,  and  6  points  for  the  hind 
feet  on  the  same  general  characteristics.  Hocks  should  be  large,  strong, 
wide,  deep,  clean  and  well  set. 


DRAFT  HORSES 63 

WEIGHT  Draft  horses   of  above  good  type  weigh  from   1,500  to 

AND  HEIGHT      2,000  Ibs.     The  rule  for  estimating  value  is  25c  for  each 
additional    pound — the    heavy    horse    in    harness    means 
more  horse  power  in  the  collar.     Hence  weight  is  more  important  than 
height.    The  average  height  is  16  to  \7l/2  hands. 

PERCHERON     The    one    most   popular   draft   horse    in    America   is    the 

Percheron. 

These  big,  gray  fellows  (black,  bays  and  roan  are  getting  to  be  com- 
mon) have  rather  small  heads  with  nicely  arched  necks,  broad  muscular 
hindquarters,  short  legs  showing  little  "feather."  While  obscure  in  origin, 
they  have  been  bred  for  many  centuries  in  La  Perche,  France,  blended 
and  improved  with  the  Arab  and  Barb  blood  introduced  into  France  from 
the  Saracen  invasion  (732  A.  D.).  The  French  government  early  realized 
the  advantage  of  the  careful  breeding  of  Percheron  horses,  and  govern- 
ment studs  were  established  back  in  the  18th  century.  The  Percheron 
type  was  early  introduced  into  America:  but  the  real  history  of  the  breed 
over  here  dates  from  the  importing  of  the  gray  colt  Louis  Napoleon  into 
Ohio. 

LOUIS  NAPOLEON      Louis  Napoleon  proved  a  marvelous  breeder  and 
it  is  claimed  to  his  credit  that  over  400  of  his  sons 

proved  successful  stallions.  The  average  of  power  in  the  Percheron 
"grades"  today  is  said  to  be  fully  one-fourth  greater  on  account  of  the 
influence  of  this  wonderful  sire.  Since  Louis  Napoleon  there  have  been 
many  importations  and  the  Percheron  is  well  established  in  this  country. 
They  are  the  most  popular  of  all  the  drafters,  no  doubt  of  that.  The  regis- 
ter contains  some  30,000  names,  the  actual  number  of  pure  bred  mares 
being  very  small  however.  Percherons  have  been  used  with  common  brood 
mares  to  improve  stock,  so  that  cross  breeds  and  grades  are  now  exceed- 
ingly common.  Louis  Napoleon  was  15^  hands  high,  weight  1,600  Ibs.  The 
Percheron  standard  here  is  16  to  17.2  hands,  however,  weight  1,600  Ibs.  to 
2,200  Ibs.  Percherons  mature  very  quickly,  in  fact,  it  is  possible  to  breed 
the  mares  at  2  years  of  age  but  farm  mares  should  not  be  bred  under  3  years. 
Docile,  but  with  plenty  of  brain  back  of  the  full  and  prominent  eyes;  true 
and  snappy  action,  reliable  in  heavy  work,  the  Percheron  deserves  all  its 
honors.  Competition  is  keen  among  supporters  of  the  breed  so  that  show- 
ring  contests  are  always  sure  to  bring  out  worthy  contestants. 

FRENCH  DRAFT      Formerly  the  Percherrfn  was  mixed  with  the  French 
Draft  class,  but  now  the  French  Draft  is  kept  as  a 

distinct  breed.  They  originated  in  Northern  France,  and  thus  for  years 
they  were  called  Normans.  If  classified  according  to  their  place  of  develop- 
ment we  might  follow  Prof.  Plumb's*  distinction  of  the  French  Draft  breeds 
as  1,  Percheron  (from  La  Perche,  France),  2,  Boulonnais  (from  Boulogne), 
3,  Breton  (from  Brittony),  4,  Nivernais  (from  Central  France),  5,  Ardenais 
(from  Ardennes,  en  the  Belgian  frontier),  6,  Picardy,  sometimes'  consid- 
ered Belgian,  sometimes  Boulonnais. 

French  draft  horses  are  exceedingly  heavy,  2,200  Ibs.  or  more,  height 
16  hands  and  higher.  They  are  not  so  true  to  type  breeding,  because  of 
the  mixed  ancestry,  but  with  greater  care  this  fault  will  in  time  be  cor- 
rected. 

BELGIAN      By  no  means  as  popular  as  the   Percheron  and  many  other 

draft  types,  the   Belgian  is   every  year  making  great   strides, 

chiefly  on  account  of  the  greater  attention  given  importing  and  breeding. 

*  "Types  and  Breeds  of  Farm  Animals,"  by  C.  S.  Plumb 


64 


CONKEY'S  STOCK  BOOK 


Belgians  are  the  giants  among  horses,  heavier  than  the  Percheron — in  fact 
they  are  heaviest  of  all  breeds — weighing  from  1,700  to  2,500  Ibs.  The 
Belgian  government  encourages  the  careful  breeding  of  this  type  of  draft 
animal,  supporting  the  official  society  for  the  promotion  of  Belgian  Draft 
breeding,  and  spending  some  $70,000  annually  for  shows,  prizes,  etc.  Be- 
sides, the  government  gives  "maintenance  prizes"  to  certain  animals,  and 
in  the  case  of  extra  fine  specimens  gives  a  yearly  bounty  as  long  as  the 
animal  remains  approved  and  in  the  country.  If  he  is  exported  this  bounty 
must  be  paid  back  to  the  government,  however.  A  pension  system  like 
this  is  pretty  sure  to  put  enthusiasm  into  careful  breeding,  and  send  the 
breed  forward  by  leaps  and  bounds  to  improved  development.  The  breed 
was  first  imported  into  the  United  States  in  1866  and  was  called  "Boulon- 
nais."  Exhibits  were  small  and  unimportant  until  the  international  show 
in  Chicago,  1905.  In  1910  the  breed  made  an  unusually  creditable  show- 
ing, not  only  in  number  but  in  improved  quality  and  characteristics.  Safe 
to  say  it  will  now  go  steadily  on  in  this  direction.  The  new  1911  laws  on 
importing  duly  registered  pure  bred  animals  will  greatly  safeguard  the 
Belgian  as  well  as  all  other  breeding  interests  in  this  country. 

CLYDESDALE  The  Clydesdale  type  has  a  long  body  with  a  long  stride 
and  rapid  walk — they  are  "good  goers."  In  fact  they 
are  famed  for  their  good  feet,  good  bone  and  good  action,  all  points  duly 
praised  by  Scotchmen  who  want  drafters  that  will  move  away  strong,  drive 
straight  and  balance  evenly.  The  Clydesdale  is  distinctly  a  Scotch  draft 
breed,  coming  to  us  by  way  ol  the  Scotch  colonists  in  Canada.  In  1842 
the  first  importation  was  made.  The  hairy  legs  are  much  liked  by  good 
Scotchmen  although  criticised  by  many  American  farmers  who  have  to 
work  their  horses  in  mud  or  dampness.  Clydesdales  are  from  1,600  to  2,200 
Ibs.  weight  and  16  to  17  hands  high.  The  color  is  usually  brown,  bay  or 
black  with  white  markings  on  face  and  legs. 


Champion  Shire  Stallion— Chicago,  1910 
(Dan  Patch,  sold  by  Truman's  Stud  Farm  to  Mr.  John  J.  Mitchell  for  $10,000) 


DRAFT  HORSES 65 

ENGLISH  SHIRE     The  English  Shire  comes  to  us  from  Britain,  probably 
dating  back  to  the  heavy  cavalry  animals  brought  by 

the  Roman  conquerors.  He  is  the  "great  horse"  or  "war  horse"  of 
early  writings  and  was  certainly  well  fitted  for  bearing  the  weight 
of  the  heavy  armor  of  early  times.  Shires  are  heavier,  also  taller  than 
the  Clydesdale,  and  slower  gaited.  In  color  they  may  be  bay,  brown,  black 
or  gray.  Robert  Bakewell,  the  great  English  breeder,  did  a  great  deal 
for  the  Shire  during  his  useful  life  in  the  latter  part  of  the  18th  century. 
The  modern  Shire  has  been  much  improved  to  get  rid  of  the  coarseness 
and  sluggishness  of  the  old  fashioned  animal.  They  are  very  satisfactory 
workers  and  are  now  found  on  farms  throughout  the  country.  In  Shires 
look  for  the  characteristic  "Roman"  nose,  and  the  heavy  "feather"  on 
the  leg. 

SUFFOLK  PUNCH  The  Suffolk  is  an  English  breed.  They  are  a  mix- 
ture of  several  strains  but  have  generally  recog- 
nizable characteristics:  small  ears,  eyes  also  rather  small  but  forehead 
broad,  and  nose  tending  to  the  Roman.  The  neck  is  well  arched,  especially 
in  the  stallions.  Particularly  noticeable  is  the  round-barrelled,  full  body. 
This  used  to  be  much  exaggerated  in  the  type,  so  that  they  formerly  de- 
served the  term  "Punch."  However,  the  aim  now  is  for  a  body  girth  of 
about  8  ft.  measured  back  of  the  shoulder.  Suffolks  are  not  large  boned, 
but  they  are  claimed  by  breeders  to  be  of  good  texture.  Their  feet  have 
been  criticised  occasionally,  though  they  rank  well  in  action,  coming  next 
to  the  Clydesdale.  English  farmers  claimi  for  the  Suffolk  a  maximum  of 
working  power  on  a  minimum  of  feed  and  rest.  They  certainly  have  vigor 
and  constitution.  They  are  long  lived  and  remarkably  productive  in  breed- 
ing. One  record  is  that  of  the  stallion  Julian  Boxer  755,  who  has  been 
used  now  for. 25  seasons. 

III.    Light  Horses 

The  draft  type,  as  we  have  seen,  is  all  power  and  utility. 

We  now  come  to  light  horse  types,  and  find  various  classifications 
of  light  horses  according  to  their  fitness  for  practical  work  or  pleasure. 
Carriage,  trotting,  running  and  saddle  horses  are  all  of  them  light  horse 
types,  and  in  general  they  lean  to  lithe,  symmetrical,  muscular  and  not 
over-full  development. 

LIGHT  HORSE  TYPES 

Carriage: 

French  Coach. 
German  Coach. 
Cleveland  Bay. 
Hackney. 

Trotting: 

American  trotter, — various  blood  lines. 
American    roadster, — grades. 

Pacing: 

Various  breeds. 

Running  and  Saddle: 
Arabian  and  Barb  (ary). 
English  Thoroughbred. 
American  Saddle  Horse. 


66 


CONKEY'S  STOCK   BOOK 


LIGHT  HORSE     All  of  these  types  suggest  nervous  energy  and  power. 
POINTS  All  have  longer  legs  than  the  draft  type  of  animal,  with 

back  short  and  strong.  In  quality  the  light  horse  must 
suggest  refinement  as  well  as  strength  and  endurance.  In  fact  in  all  light 
horse  types  there  must  be  plenty  of  style  and  grace  to  suit  the  popular 
requirements.  Quality  is  shown  by  the  thin  skin  and  prominent  veins, 
also  by  the  fineness  and  length  of  the  mane  and  tail.  Bone  substance  is 
in  the  animal,  but  here  too  we  look  for  the  same  quality  of  refinement. 
The  animal  must  have  clean,  sharply  defined  tendons.  In  constitution  we 
look  for  generous  and  symmetrical  development,  but  every  point  must  be 
suggestive  of  spirit.  The  flanks  must  be  full;  the  eyes  bright  and  clear 
and  the  nostrils  large  and  sensitive. 

As  in  the  case  of  draft  breeds  the  score  card  for  light  horses  calls  for 
plenty  of  action, — 15  points  for  long,  fast,  elastic,  straight  and  regular 
walk,  or  a  trot  that  is  rapid,  regular  and  straight.  Seven  points  go  for 
large,  strong,  wide,  deep,  clean,  well-set  hocks;  six  points  for  forefeet  of 
medium  size,  even  and  sound,  with  hoofs  dense  and  waxy,  and  the  same 
general  characteristics  for  good  horse  feet  as  for  draft  animals.  Tempera- 
ment is  also  very  important  for  the  light  breeds;  and  five  points  cheer- 
fully go  for  spirit  and  energy,  combined  with  teachableness.  Tempera- 
ment is  extremely  important  since  so  much  of  the  horse's  value  depends 
on  training. 


Variation  from  Draft  to  Coach  and  Light  Horse  Types 

CARRIAGE    Of  the  various  types  of  the  light  horse  breeds  the  largest  is 
TYPES  the   coach    or   carriage    animal.     The   carriage   horse    stands 

usually  16  hands  high,  and  is  suited  to  heavy  harness,  with 
a  full,  graceful  body,  high  carriage  of  tail  and  "coachy"  or  "trappy"  action. 
The  French  and  German  Coach  were  developed  in  each  case  by  the  na- 
tional government,  out  of  native  mares,  by  English  Thoroughbred  stallions, 
the  object  being  more  fitness  for  cavalry  purposes.  The  French  Coach 
has  a  considerable  mixture  of  blood,  and  is  not  therefore  true  to  color  in 
breeding.  The  German  Coach  horse  is  usually  bay  or  brown.  In  general 
the  German  Coach  horse  has  not  quite  as  good  action  as  the  French  Coach 
horse;  the  latter  more  resembles  the  Hackney.  Hackneys  are  the  corre- 
sponding type  in  England,  being  the  mixture  of  Thoroughbred  blood  with 
that  of  native  driving  mares,  improved  with  the  Darley  Arabian  who  was 
imported  in  1706.  With  the  Hackney  speed  is  not  a  consideration,  but  it 
has  a  good  walking  gait  and  high  knee  action.  In  action,  the  legs  are  much 
flexed  and  the  foot  describes  a  circle.  Hackneys  are  good  "park"  or  other 
stylish  driving  animals.  They  are  not  so  good  for  the  farmer,  being  a  little 
under  size  and  not  especially  strong,  either  in  speed  or  endurance. 


LIGHT  HORSES 


67 


AMERICAN  The  American  Trotter  or  Roadster — purely  an  American 
TROTTERS  breed — requires  as  its  chief  points  stamina  and  speed.  It 
is  next  in  size  to  the  carriage  horse,  standing  15^4  or  under 
16  hands  high.  It  should  not  weigh  over  1,100  Ibs.  and  should  show  lean, 
angular  development.  Roadsters  should  have  less  "show,"  but  straight 
true  action.  A  long  stride,  the  secret  of  our  great  running  records,  should 
always  be  a  marked  characteristic. 

Prior  to  1806  no  trotting  horse  had  taken  a  record  of  a  mile  in  less 
than  three  minutes;  but  in  that  year  a  horse  called  Yankee  made  a  record 
of  2:59,  at  Harlem,  N.  Y.  Nearly  a  century  passed  before  the  time  was 
cut  to  less  than  two  minutes  by  Lou  Dillon.  The  following  trotting 
record  will  revive  some  interesting  if  not  thrilling  recollections:  Lady 
Suffolk  2:29^  in  1845,  Flora  Temple  2:19^  in  1859,  Dexter  2:17^  in  1867, 
Goldsmith  Maid  2:14  in  1874,  Rarus  2:13^  in  1878,  St.  Julian  2:12^  in 
1879,  Jay  Eye  See  2:10  in  1884,  Maud  S.  2:08^4  in  1885,  Sunol  2:Wy2  in 
1889,  Nancy  Hanks  2:04  in  1892,  Aliz  2:03^  in  1894,  The  Abbott  2:03^  in 
1900,  Cresceus  2:02^  in  1902,  Major  Delmar  1 :59&  in  1903  and  Lou  Dillon 
in  1903. 

World's  Records— Trotting 


EVENT 

NAME  OF  HORSE 

Date 

Record 

%n 
1m 
Fas 

Fas 

iile  to  v* 
lie     .   . 
test  mile 
*      2  mi 

test  mar 
'      geld 
'      stal 
yeai 
yeai 

:  p 

'      2 
'      3 
'      3 
'      3 
'      4 

;    4 

'      5 
'      5 
5 

'     14 

"      gr? 

ragon  

in  open    .   .   . 
les  

e 

Uhlan,  blk.  g.,  by  Bingen  

1911 
1903 
1910 

1910 
1903 
1910 
1910 
1909 
1910 
1909 
1910 
1899 
1910 
1910 
1911 
1910 
1893 
1908 
1903 
1910 
1909 
1910 
1903 
1908 
1910 

0.56K 
1.58% 
1.58% 

4.15K 
1.58% 
1.58% 
2.01 
2.19J* 
2.19% 
2.073/i 
2.09% 
2.14% 
2.04% 
2.06% 
2.07% 
2.04% 
2.Q5X 
2.07^ 
1.58% 
2.01 
2.02  K 
2.05  # 
1.58% 
2.06^ 
2.04% 

Lou  Dillon,  ch.  m.,  by  Sidney  Dillon     
Uhlan,  blk.  g.,  by  Bingen  ..... 
The  Harvester,  br.  h.,  (5)  by  Walnut  Hall,  (1st 
mile  2.08%,  2nd  mile  2.06%)     
Lou  Dillon,  ch.  m.,  by  Sidney  Dillon    
Uhlan,  blk.  g.,  (6)  by  Bingen    .... 
The  Harvester,  br.  h.,  (5)  by  Walnut  Hall  .   . 
Miss  Stokes,  b.,  by  Peter  the  Great 

ing  
lion 

"ling  filly  .   .   . 
•ling  colt  .  .   . 
ar  old  filly   .   . 
colt    .... 
old  gelding 
'    colt  .  . 
filly  .  . 

Sf!18 
colt  .  . 
gelding 
mare    . 
stallion 
gelding 
old     .... 
;n  performer  . 
gelding    .   . 
stallion     .   . 

Wilbur  Lou,  b.,  by  Kinney  Lou  . 
Native  Belle,  b.,  by  Moko  

Justice  Brooke,  b.,  by  Barongale   
Endow,  b.,  by  Cecilian     
Colorado  E.,  b.,  by  the  Bondsman  
Native  Belle,  b.,  by  Moko  
Peter  Thompson,  b.,  by  Peter  the  Great    .  . 

Joan,  b.,  by  Directum  Spier 

Directum,  blk.,  by  Director  

Uhlan,  bl.,  by  Bingen 

Lou  Dillon,  ch.,  by  Sidney  Dillon   . 
The  Harvester,  br.,  by  Walnut  Hall     . 

Uhlan,  bl.,  by  Bingen  .  .   .   .  t  
Country  Jay,  ch.  g.,  by  Jayhawker       

Lou  Dillon,  ch.  m.,  (5)  by  Sidney  Dillon  . 

Highball,  b.,  (7)  by  Dr.  Hooker  
Colorado  E.,  b.,  (4)  by  the  Bondsman  

Trotting  in  Races 


%  mile  to 
Fastest  he 

wagon  
at 

Major  Delmar,  b.  g.,  by  Delmar  ...      
Hamburg  Belle,  b.  m.,  (7)  by  Axworthy     
The  Harvester,  br.,  (5)  by  Walnut  Hall  . 
Uhlan,  bl.,  by  Bingen  
Pansy  McGregor,  f  .,  by  Fergus  McGregor   

1911 
1909 
1910 
1909 
1893 
1909 
1910 
1909 
1910 
1910 
1893 
1910 
1909 

1.00 
2.01K 
2.02 
2.03% 
2.23% 
2.07% 
2.09% 
2.07}< 
2.04% 
2.04% 
2.05^ 
2.02 
2,03% 

1     stal 
'     geld 
yea 

f* 

3 
3 

4 
4 

5 

ion 
inp 

rlin 
ar 

;  o 

.      .      . 

g     .   . 
aid  . 
dcolt 
filly 
colt 

Native  Belle  b  f  ,  by  Moko 

Justice  Brooke,  b.,  by  Barongale  
Czarevna,  ch.,  by  Peter  the  Great  
Colorado  E.,  b.  c.,  The  Bondsman  

Joan,  b  m.,  by  Directum  Spier 

Directum,  b.,  by  Director  

The  Harvester,  br.  h.,  by  Walnut  Hall  
Uhlan,  blk.  g.,  by  Bingen  

CONKEY'S  STOCK   BOOK 


Trotting— Half-Mile  Track 


EVENT 

NAME  OF  HORSE 

Date 

Record 

Fastest  mile    
1  mile  by  a  mare       .... 

Uhlan,  blk.  g.,  (6)  by  Bingen  
Sweet  Marie,  b.,  by  McKinney   .... 

1910 
1907 

2.05& 
2.07 

1    "      'r  stallion  

Cresceus,  ch.,  (9)  by  Robert  McGregor  

1903 

2.08 

"  a  yearling     .   .   . 
1            "  a  2  year  old     .   . 

Benear,  b.  c.,  by  Bingara    
Al  Stanley,  rn.  c.,  by  Todd    

1910 
1908 

2.34% 
2.20 

1    "      "  a3    " 
1    "      "  a  4    "      "... 

Muda  Guy,  b.  f.,  by  Guy  Axworthy  
Pat  L.,  b.  c.,  by  Republican  

1909 
1896 

2.\2Y4 
2.10% 

1    "    in  a  race         .... 

Sweet  Marie,  b.  m.,  (11)  by  McKinney   

1907 

2.08 

World's  Records— Pacing 


%  mile                 .   . 

Dan  Patch,  br.  h.,  (7)  by  Joe  Patchen 

1903 

056 

1                 

Dan  Patch,  br.  h.,  (9)  by  Joe  Patchen  

1906 

1.55^ 

;     in  the  open  .... 
Fastest  stallion  
gelding     
mare 

Minor  Heir,  b.  h.,  (7)  by  Heir-at-Law  
Dan  Patch,  br.,  (9)  by  Joe  Patchen    
Prince  Alert,  b.,  (11)  by  Crown  Prince    
Dariel,  b.,  (10)  by  Alcander 

1910 
1905 
1903 
1903 

1.58% 
1.55  # 
1.59% 
2  OOX 

"      yearling  colt  . 
"         filly      .    . 
gelding 

Frank  Perry,  by  Toddington    
Belle  Acton,  b.,  by  Shadeland  Onward    
Rollo,  gr.,  by  Jerome  Eddy    

1911 
1892 
1891 

2.15 

2.20-K 
2  28% 

"      2  year  colt 

Directly,  blk.,  by  Direct               .  . 

1894 

2  07K 

"  ,    2     "     old  filly    .    . 
3           colt 

Fleta  Dillon,  b.,  by  Sidney  Dillon  .  .  . 
Del  Ray,  by  Nutwood  Wilkes  . 

1909 
1911 

2.08K 
2  05 

3           old  filly    .   . 
3                  gelding 
4                  colt  .    . 
"      4                  filly 

Miss  De  Forest,  by  The  De  Forest       
Hymettus,  b.,  by  Zombro  
Online,  b.,  by  Shadeland  Onward  
The  Maid,  b.,  by  Hal  Index  .  . 

1911 
1907 
1894 
1899 

2.05^ 
2.08% 
2.04 
2  05^ 

"      4                  gelding 
"      5 

W.  Wood,  by  Steinway    
Coney,  blk.,  by  McKinney 

1892 
1900 

2.07 
2  Q2K 

5     '       "  stallions 

(  Searchlight,  br.,  by  Dark  Night    
-!  Audubon  Boy,  ch.,  by  J.  J.  Audubon  
(  Don  Densmore,  by  Pactolus 

1899 
1902 
1911 

1  2.03K 

5     "       "    mare    . 
green  performer  . 
"           "     gelding     .   . 

Lady  of  the  Manor,  ch.,  by  Mambrino  King     .... 
Minor  Heir,  br.  h.,  (6)  by  Heir-at-Law    .... 
My  Star,  ch.,  (S)byWilstar  

1899 
1908 
1906 

2.04^ 
1.59% 
2.033^ 

Pacing  in  Races 

1A  mile 

Prince  Alert,  b.  g.,  (10)  by  Crown  Prince 

1902 

057K 

Fastest  heat,  stallion  .   .   . 

Minor  Heir,  b.,  (7)  by  Heir-at-Law    
j  Prince  Alert,  b.,  (9)  by  Crown  Prince    

1910 
1901 

1.59 

gelding  .  .   . 

1  Boliver,  b.,  (9)  by  Wayland  W  .  .  . 

1906 

|  2.00K 

mare  .... 
yearling    .   . 
2  year  old 

Lady  Maud  C,  ch.,  by  Chitwood     
Belle  Acton,  b.  f.,  by  Shadeland  Onward   
Ecstasy,  b.  f.,  by  Baron  Wilkes  

1910 
1892 
1898 

2.01% 
2.30 
2.10% 

3     "      "    .   . 

4     ' 
5     "      "    .   . 

Del  Ray,  by  Nutwood  Wilkes  
Searchlight,  brc.,  by  Dark  Night   
Coney,  blk.  g.,  by  McKinney    

1911 
1898 
1900 

2.05 
2.04% 
2.023^ 

Pacing—  Half-Mile  Track 

1  mile        

Dan  Patch,  b.,  by  Joe  Patchen     

1905 

2.01 

1     '       gelding 

Prince  Alert,  b.,  by  Crown  Prince 

1903 

2.03% 

1     "      in  a  race    

Uohn  R.  Gentry,  b.  h.,  by  Ashland  Chief  
<  Prince  Alert,  b.  g,,  by  Crown  Prince  

1900 
1911 

^2.04K 

ARAB  AND  BARB      All    our    running    stock    springs    from    the    English 
Thoroughbred.     In  turn   the   English  Thoroughbred 

owes  most  of  its  distinguished  qualities,  such  as  beauty,  stamina,  endurance 
and  speed,  to  its  Arabian  blood.  Arab  horses  have  been  used  for  centuries 
throughout  Europe  for  the  improvement  of  horse  stock.  The  Saracen  in- 
vaders brought  with  them  30,000  horses  and  some  of  these  were  left  to 
the  victors  when  the  Mohammedan  army  was  forced  to  retreat.  Russia, 
Germany,  France,  Hungary,  all  have  benefitted  by  this  invasion  of  Arabian 
blood.  The  wandering  Bedouins  of  the  desert  and  a  more  southern  race, 
the  Anezah,  are  the  most  famous  breeders  of  Arabian  horses, — especially 


LIGHT  HORSES 


the  Anezah.  These  Anezah  are  descended  from  Ishmael,  through  the 
sheik  Salaman  (about  1653  B.  C.)  and  it  is  to  Salaman's  famous  Ajuz,  chief 
mare  of  these  stables,  that  the  purest  strains  of  today  are  traced.  James  I 
of  England,  in  the  17th  century  A.  D.,  imported  to  England  descendants 
of  these  noble  mares  of  the  17th  century  B.  C.,  as  also  did  later  kings 
of  England.  In  all  it  is  estimated  that  164  Oriental  stallions  of  established 
record  were  taken  to  England,  90  of  these  being  Arabian,  36  Barbs  and 
the  others  being  Turkish,  Persian,  etc.  In  America  the  history  of  Arab 
importations  is  brief:  Ranger  was  brought  to  Connecticut  in  1765.  Up  to 
1860  about  42  Arab  stallions  had  been  brought  to  this  country,  and  12 
mares:  also  6  Barbs  (4  stallions). 

In  more  recent  years  these  importations  have  continued.  There  is 
no  special  society  in  England  or  America  which  promotes  the  Arabian 
horse,  but  this  breed  stands  in  considerable  popular  favor.  The  general 
belief  is  that  the  Arabian  can  be  relied  upon  to  transmit  its  high  intelligence, 
spirited  style  and  wonderful  endurance  qualities.  It  is  used  everywhere 
to  improve  or  restore  depleted  stock.  The  Arab  is  only  14  to  14^  hands 
high,  and  may  be  bay,  white,  gray,  chestnut  or  occasionally  black.  The  head 
shows  intelligence,  combined  with  sensitiveness  and  spirit.  The  body  is 
inclined  to  be  short,  the  croup  is  high,  the  legs  and  feet  are  superior  and  the 
muscle  development  is  wonderfully  suited  to  burden  bearing. 

THE  THOROUGHBRED      The  English  Thoroughbred  or  running  horse 

has  been  developed  in  England  for  sport  and 

pleasure.  It  is  the  oldest  breed  with  an  established  pedigree.  Its  develop- 
ment represents  the  acme  of  energy,  bone,  sinew  and  muscle  development. 

The  Thoroughbred  possesses  the  greatest  possible  endurance  at  the 
running  gait.  One  of  its  chief  uses  today  in  America  is  to  grade  and  im- 
prove the  blood  of  other  running  stock.  The  history  of  its  development 
is  one  of  exceeding  interest,  but  we  can  refer  only  to  the  fortunate  mixture 
of  selected  Arabian,  Barb  and  Turkish  blood  on  selected  light  English 
stock,  giving  today  the  eclipsing  delicacy  and  beauty  of  form  of  the  Thor- 
oughbred along  with  real  stamina,  remarkable  speed  and  extraordinary 
endurance.  The  Thoroughbred  in  America  dates  from  the  middle  of  the 
18th  century,  so  that  this  breed  is  of  long  established  standing  in  this 
country. 

AMERICAN  A  distinctly  American  breed  is  the  American  Saddle 

SADDLE  HORSE     Horse.     Indeed  it  is  the  most  beautiful  of  American 

breeds,  and  in  every  way  a  noble  animal.     The  pure 

drop  in  the  veins  of  the  American  Saddle  Horse  goes  back  to  imported  Thor- 
oughbred stallions,  and  especially  to  the  blood  of  Denmark,  a  fine  English 
Thoroughbred  brought  to  Kentucky  in  1839.  The  settlers  of  Kentucky, 
Virginia  and  Tennessee  aimed  at  a  saddle  horse  with  some  degree  of  the 
Thoroughbred's  endurance  and  speed.  Longer  necked  than  the  English 
Thoroughbred,  our  American  Saddle  Horse  has  a  noticeably  more  graceful 
movement,  with  the  spirit  and  endurance  of  the  English  animal  but  not  its 
nervousness.  With  careful  selection  of  the  brood  mares  a  variety  of  gaits 
have  been  made  characteristic  of  the  saddle  horse,  combined  with  a  teach- 
able spirit,  making  it  easy  to  train  to  show  a  fox  or  single  foot  gait,  a 
running  walk,  straight  walk,  or  to  trot  or  canter  as  desired.  Saddlers  range 
from  the  ladies'  horse  of  950  Ibs.  to  the  heavy  saddle  horse  of  1050  Ibs., 
height  from  15.1^  to  15.2^  hands.  As  would  be  expected  from  the  mixed 
breeding,  the  colors  are  various — brown,  black  or  chestnut.  A  good  saddle 
horse  should  have  a  spirited  carriage  in  head  and  neck  and  tail,  a  neat  body 
and  a  strong  back  for  the  saddle.  . 


70 CONKEY'S   STOCK   BOOK 

IV.     Good  Care 

Scrub  conditions  make  scrub  animals.  Some  critics  say  the  horse  gets 
the  least  attention  of  any  animal  on  the  farm. 

Whether  true  or  not,  such  a  general  statement  doesn't  matter.  The 
question  is  your  farm:  How  about  your  horses? 

The  cost  to  keep  a  work-horse  varies  more  than  that  of  any  other 
farm  animal.  In  the  first  place  a  horse  is  fed  for  a  different  purpose,  as 
it's  not  horse  steak  we're  after,  but  horse  sweat:  in  other  less  homely 
phrase,  work  and  energy. 

We  value  a  horse  as  we  do  a  man  or  a  machine — for  the  work  we  can 
get  out  of  him. 

FEEDING     We  feed  a  horse  to  get  this  valuable  return  in  energy,  hence 
the  rule:     Feed  wisely,  temperately,  in  accordance  with  class 
or  the  amount  of  work  to  be  done. 

Feed  well — enough,  but  not  too  much.  Let  up  on  the  feed  when  the 
hard  work  season  is  over.  Avoid  "Monday  morning  disease"  by  more 
temperate  feeding  over  the  rest-day,  Sunday.  Don't  feed  the  same  whether 
working  or  idle.  Safe  to  say  most  horses  get  too  much  anyway,  and  all 
sorts  of  indigestion  troubles  follow.  Feed  regularly — irregular  feeding  tends 
to  the  habit  of  bolting.  Swallowing  food  without  properly  chewing  it  is 
a  fault  of  many  horses.  If  the  trouble  is  with  the  teeth,  have  them 
attended  to;  if  just  a  habit,  put  some  round  smooth  stones  in  the  feed  box 
so  that  the  bolter  will  have  to  nose  around  to  get  the  food,  hence  cannot 
eat  so  rapidly. 

DANGER  FROM  Any  sudden  or  violent  change  is  what  plays  hob 

SUDDEN    CHANGE      with  horses.     A  sudden  change  in  the  amount  or 

way  of  feeding  is  almost  sure  to  cause  digestive 

derangements,  generally  colic;  and  from  colic  more  horses  die  than  from 
any  other  disorder.  All  forage  should  be  clean  and  of  the  best  quality. 
Water  must  be  abundant,  clean  and  pure  always,  as  horses  are  easily 
affected  from  water  impurity.  Cases  of  colic  are  often  traced  to  bad  water. 
Salt  is  another  necessity.  See  that  your  horses  have  constant  access  to 
salt — better  still,  a  medicated  salt  mixture,  as  advised  on  page  46  where  we 
give  receipt  for  a  good  and  cheap  home-made  stock  salt,  combining  Stock 
Tonic. 

AIR  Your  horse  needs  air — just  20  times  as  much  air  as  you  do.  Pure 
air  is  more  essential  than  warmth.  Bad  ventilation  in  the  stable 
leads  to  catarrh,  coughs,  colds,  chest  diseases,  and  other  serious  conditions, 
among  them  the  incurable  diseases,  glanders  and  farcy.  Avoid  drafts  but 
insist  on  fresh  air  in  your  stable.  If  necessary,  saw  holes  and  protect  from 
drafts  by  covering  the  holes  with  muslin. 

LIGHT  Your  horse  should  have  proper  light  in  his  stable  for  general 
comfort  and  health,  but  light  direct  in  the  face  should  be  care- 
fully avoided.  Horses  kept  in  dark  stalls  are  frequently  subject  to  eye 
disorders  from  the  abrupt  change  to  daylight.  The  floor  of  the  hayloft 
should  be  seed  and  dust  tight  or  there  may  be  injury  to  the  sensitive  eyes 
or  ears  of  your  animals. 


GOOD   CARE 


71 


EXERCISE  Don't  let  your  horse  get  "soft"  from  lack  of  exercise.  No 
matter  how  healthy  he  may  be  in  other  respects,  when  his 
muscular  system  is  soft  he  cannot  go  fast  or  far,  but  soon  shows  exhaustion. 
Besides,  without  exercise  he  will  suffer  from  uneven  and  drying  hoofs, 
become  lame,  footsore  or  otherwise  liable  to  disorder. 

BLANKETS     If  a  horse  is  in  good  health  don't  blanket  him  in  the  stable. 

The  blanket  may   slip   off  while  the  horse   is   lying   down, 

or  a  forgetful  attendant  may  not  think  to  put  it  on  the  animal.     On  the 

other  hand,  be  sure  to  blanket  when 
the  animal  is  exposed  outside  to 
inclement  weather.  A  $5.00  blanket 
often  will  save  a  $300.00  horse. 
Many  teamsters  and  horse-owners 
make  the  mistake  of  throwing  the 
blanket  doubled  over  the  hind 
quarters  and  loins,  leaving  the 
chest  and  fore-quarters  entirely  un- 
protected. This  practice  tends  to 
draw  the  blood  from  the  chest, 
making  that  sensitive  part  of  the 
body  especially  liable  to  chill.  A 
good  deal  depends  on  season  and 
climate.  The  horse  has  active 
sweat  glands — is  perspiring  contin- 
ually when  in  normal  condition. 
When  the  blanket  will  cause  the 

temperature  to  go  above  normal,  you  see  for  yourself  it  will,  when  taken 
off,  cause  the  temperature  to  fall  unduly;  and  the  sudden  change  is  almost 
sure  to  bring  trouble. 

"COOLING  OUT"      After  exercise  the  horse's  temperature  will  rise  con- 
siderably   above    normal.      Whenever    possible    the 

careful  driver  will  walk  his  animal  for  a  mile  or  two  before  reaching  home. 
A  race  horse  is  always  systematically  "cooled  out"  by  his  attendant  before 
he  is  allowed  the  freedom  of  his  stable  or  given  water  or  feed.  Then  he  is 
blanketed  with  two  blankets — one  to  absorb  moisture  and  the  other  to  keep 
the  body  warm  and  dry.  Suppose  you  let  an  overheated  animal  help  him- 
self to  all  the  cold  water  he  might  want:  The  temperature  of  the  body 
would  quickly  fall  below  normal,  then  keep  on  falling,  and  the  horse  would 
be  an  easy  victim  to  chills,  congestion,  pneumonia  or  founder.  So  never 
let  the  temperature  of  a  horse  fall  rapidly  below  normal. 


YOUR  HORSE'S 
COAT 


Horses  should  be  clipped  just  before  the  new  coat 
starts  to  come  in.  Clipping  the  ends  of  the  new  hair 
will  make  the  new  coat  rough  and  harsh.  All  horses 

with  long,  heavy  coat,  or  horses  in  a  generally  unthrifty  condition  are  bene- 
fited by  clipping.  Many  ills  come  from  standing  in  a  coat  of  long  wet  hair 
after  hard  driving;  whereas  the  clipped  horse  dries  quickly.  Good  care 
shows  itself  in  the  outward  appearance  of  the  animal — in  his  sleek  and 
shining  coat.  A  horse  shows  his  condition  in  his  skin  more  quickly  than  in 
any  other  way.  When  he  is  plump,  close-haired,  clean  and  contented  you 
may  know  that  he  has  had  good  fodder.  When  you  see  a  scrawny,  rough, 
hard-skinned,  restless  animal  you  may  decide  for  yourself  that  his  owner 
lacks  both  knowledge  and  love  for  the  brute.  This  is  true  of  all  livestock. 
Their  appearance  speaks  volumes  for  or  against  the  owner.  Learn  the 
value  of  Conkey's  Stock  Tonic  to  improve  the  looks  of  your  livestock. 


72_ CONKEY'S  STOCK   BOOK 

*" 

FLIES  Many  a  horse  otherwise  well  cared  for  is  left  to  the  torment  of 
summer  flies,  or  at  the  most  provided  only  with  a  net  as  an  aid 
in  switching  them  from  his  coat.  The  fly  problem  is  a  serious  one,  but  by 
no  means  so  hard  to  get  around  as  many  owners  would  seem  to  believe. 
In  the  first  place,  more  care  in  the  stable,  especially  in  manure  heaps,  would 
lessen  the  trouble  at  its  source.  It  is  easy  to  disinfect  these  breeding 
places  of  flies,  by  spraying  regularly  with  some  proved  "deterrant"  such  as 
Conkey's  Fly  Knocker  solution.  With  such  precautions  in  disinfecting 
and  spraying,  the  stable  will  cease  to  be  the  danger  spot  it  now  is,  spreading 
infection  and  disease  throughout  the  whole  neighborhood.  In  addition, 
spray  the  animal,  especially  before  taking  it  out  for  a  drive.  This  will 
keep  the  flies  from  the  horse  and  prevent  the  fretting  so  wearing  to  the 
high-spirited  driving  horse.  A  fretting,  tormented  animal  requires  more 
feed  to  keep  it  in  condition,  hence  spraying  with  Fly  Knocker  saves  on  the 
feed  bill.  It  also  saves  shoes,  as  there  is  less  stamping;  and  with  less 
stamping,  the  stable  floor  will  not  call  for  repairs  so  often. 

SOUND  One  of  the  first  conditions  for  health  is  sound  teeth.  In  addition 
TEETH  to  the  disease  germs  bred  in  the  mouth  by  bad  teeth  there  is  this 
fact:  that  sound  teeth  perform  the  very  first  step  in  the  process 
of  utilization  of  feed.  Remember  that  the  horse's  food  is  not  cooked  and 
his  teeth  must  be  good,  in  order  to  properly  masticate  his  rations.  It  is 
worse  than  throwing  feed  away  to  give  it  to  an  animal  that  can  neither 
chew  nor  digest  it.  Poor  feed  and  bad  teeth  are  the  cause  of  three-fourths 
of  all  the  colics  and  digestive  disorders  of  horses,  says  Dr.  Clover,  of  the 
Colorado  Agricultural  College.  ^ 

A  horse's  teeth  should  be  examined  at  least  once  a  year.  As  the  upper 
jaw  is  wider  than  the  lower,  constant  wearing  may  produce  a  sharp  ridge 
on  the  inside  of  the  lower  molars  and  on  the  outside  of  the  upper  molars, 
which  is  easily  felt  on  examination.  These  ridges  are  often  as  sharp  as 
knives  and  are  liable  to  cut  the  tongue  and  cheeks,  when  the  pain  will 
cause  the  animal  to  neglect  proper  mastication.  Teeth  so  worn  will  often 
make  a  poor  driver  of  a  good  horse;  as  he  will  jerk  his  head  to  one  side, 
or  throw  his  head  in  the  air  and  jump  when  the  tender  place  is  touched 
by  the  bit.  Always  examine  the  teeth  when  a  horse  is  troubled  with 
indigestion;  for  bad  teeth  are  a  most  common  cause.  A  dental  veterinarian 
will  rasp  these  down  to  normal  condition  in  a  few  moments. 


2  years  j  6years         j  I2years  Ey.treme.Age 


SIGNS  The  teeth  of  a  horse,  where  not  tampered  with  by  professional 
OF  AGE  "swappers"  or  horse  jugglers,  are  one  of  the  best  means  of 
telling  the  age. "At  the  same  time  it  must  be  remembered  that 
while  the  age  of  a  horse  is  an  important  factor  in  judging  its  value,  some 
horses  have  more  real  usefulness  ahead  of  them  at  fifteen  years  than  many 
others  have  at  seven.  About  twenty  years  is  considered -the  limit  of  a 
horse's  usefulness,  though  frequent  exceptions  are  found  where  a  good 
animal  is  useful  at  thirty.  Up  to  the  tenth  or  twelfth  year  the  individual 
teeth  offer  fair  evidence  for  judging  age.  After  that  time  the  age  must 
be  calculated  by  the  general  appearance  of  the  teeth  and  the  bones  of  the 


GOOD   CARE 73 

head.  When  the  horse  is  young,  the  roots  of  the  teeth  extend  far  into 
the  bone  and  give  the  face  and  lower  jaw  a  rounded  appearance.  As  the 
horse  grows  older,  the  face  becomes  more  concave,  the  jaws  get  thinner 
and  sharper,  the  bones  become  more  prominent,  and  the  hollows  above  the 
eyes  deepen.  As  the  animal  becomes  still  older,  the  hair  turns  gray  about 
the  muzzle,  and  the  general  appearance  of  the  face  indicates  advancing 
years. 

A  HORSE'S  The  adult  horse  has  twelve  teeth  for  biting,  called  incisors, 
TEETH  six  in  each  jaw  within  the  lips.  There  are  twenty-four 

molars,  or  "grinders,"  with  which  to  grind  or  masticate  the 
food.  Of  these  there  are  six  on  each  side  of  the  upper  and  lower  jaws. 
In  males  there  is  an  extra  tooth,  called  the  bridle  or  canine  tooth,  on  each 


/fry ears  6  years  IZ/cara  Vc-ry  Old. 


Changes  in  canine  tooth  or  "tusk"  (not  found  in  mares) 

side  of  each  jaw,  between  the  incisors  and  the  molars.  These  may  some- 
times be  found  in  mares,  but  they  are  usually  small  and  undeveloped.  Small, 
extra  molars  are  sometimes  found  forward  of  the  first  molars  on  the  upper 
jaw  (rarely  on  the  lower),  commonly  called  "wolf  teeth."  They  are  use- 
less, and  also  harmless,  although  old-time  "hoss  doctors"  blamed  them  for 
many  eye  troubles. 

The  different  molars  are  indicated  by  numbering  them  from  front  to 
back,  calling  right  and  left,  as  the  second  right  upper  molar.  The  incisor 
teeth  take  their  names  from  their  position;  the  two  middle  teeth  are  called 
the  central  incisors;  one  on  either  side  is  called  a  lateral  incisor;  and  the 
two  outer  ones,  one  on  either  side,  are  called  the  corner  incisors. 

A  horse  has,  in  his  life  time,  two  sets  of  teeth.  The  first  temporary, 
or  "milk"  set,  twenty-four  in  number,  consists  of  twelve  incisors  and  twelve 
molars.  There  are  three  incisors  and  three  molars  in  each  side  of  each  jaw. 
They  are  smaller  and  whiter  than  the  permanent  set,  and  have  a  "neck," 
or  constriction,  at  the  gum. 

The  temporary  teeth  in  colts  are  cut  as  follows:  When  born,  a  colt  has 
three  molars  on  each  jaw,  and  the  two  central  nippers  or  incisors.  They 
may  be  covered  by  a  thin  skin  which  breaks  in  a  day  or  two.  The  lateral 
incisors  are  cut  at  from  four  to  six  weeks;  and  the  corner  incisors  at  from 
six  to  ten  months.  At  one  year  old  the  colt  has  a  full  set  of  twenty-four 
temporary  teeth. 

The  two  central  incisors  are  shed  at  about  two  and  a  half  years,  and 
the  permanent  ones  are  in  use  at  three  years.  The  lateral  incisors  are  shed 
at  three  and  a  half  years,  and  the  permanent  ones  are  in  use  at  four  years. 
The  corner  incisors  are  shed  at  four  years  and  a  half,  and  the  permanent 
ones  are  in  use  at  five  years. 

FACTS  "No  foot  no  horse"  is  a  trite  but  truthful  saying?. 

ABOUT  FEET      Keep    the    feet   in    good    shape.      The    greatest    care 

a  horse's  feet  is  not  in  curing  them  after  they  are  knocked 
out,  but   in   keeping   them   in   good   working   normal    condition.      In   their 


74 


CONKEY'S  STOCK  BOOK 


Diagram  of  Healthy  Hoof 

A,  wall;  C,  bars;  D,  buttresses;  E,  cleft  of  frog; 

F,  sole;  G,  leafy  layer;  H,  frog;  I,  branches  of 

frog;  K,  horny  bulbs;  L,  middle  cleft  of  frog; 

AA,  toe;  AB,  sidewalls;  BD,  quarters. 


natural  state  the  horse's  hoofs  would  never  become  hard  and  contracted— 
their  contact  with  the  earth  and  herbage  would  counteract  such  a  tendency. 

In  the  natural  state  the  concus- 
sion of  each  footfall  is  lessened  by 
the  elasticity  of  the  ground,  by  the 
soft,  pliable  condition  of  the  foot 
itself,  and  by  various  details  in  its 
construction  all  fitted  to  the  purpose 
— such  as  the  frog,  arch  of  the  sole, 
plantar-cushion,  etc. 

This  is  the  natural  pliable  condi- 
tion of  the  foot  when  the  animal  runs 
in  the  natural  pastures;  but  if  kept 
long  in  stables  or  worked  on  paved 
streets  or  hard  dry  roads,  the  foot  Q. 
entirely  dries  out.  The  hoof  sub- 
stance contains  25%  water  in  normal 
healthy  condition.  As  it  loses  this 
water  the  hoof  shrinks,  hardens  and 
cracks.  Some  say  grease  the  hoofs. 
But  the  grease  enters  into  the  porous 
substance,  driving  out  the  water  and 
keeping  it  out.  The  frog  of  the  foot, 
being  softer  in  its  composition,  is  all 
the  more  sensitive  to  conditions,  and 
when  deprived  of  moisture  in  the 
natural  manner,  it  shrinks  and  hardens 
even  to  a  greater  degree  than  does 
the  outer  horn.  Remember  the  horse's  hoof,  when  in  healthy  condition, 
undergoes  natural  expansion  (1/50-1/12  in.)  every  time  it  touches  the 
ground.  If  dried  and  hardened  from  unnatural  conditions,  the  result  is  sure 
to  be  cracked  hoof  or  quarter  crack,  contracted  hoof,  etc. 

Plainly,  the  old-fashioned  practice  of  burning  a  shoe  into  the  hoof  in 
order  to  make  it  "fit  better"  (i.  e.,  make  the  horse  fit  the  iron  shoe,  to  save 
the  smithy  trouble)  was  the  frequent  cause  of  cracked  and  contracted  hoof. 
Standing  on  hard  stable  floors,  working  on  hard  dry  roads,  are  now  the 
usual  causes.  Treatment  consists  in  keeping  the  feet  in  natural,  pliable 
condition.  Grease  doesn't  do  this  for  reasons  explained  above.  We  suggest 
the  following  treatment: 

RIGHT  Wash  the  hoofs  clean  with  good  soapy  water,  or  better 

TREATMENT  yet,  with  Noxicide*  solution.  Then  apply  Conkey's  Hoof 
Remedy  as  directed,  which,  as  it  has  a  lanolin  (wool- 
fat)  base,  will  hold  moisture;  and,  as  it  penetrates  every  fibre  of  the  horny 
substance,  carries  its  healing  properties  to  the  various  parts  of  the  hoof  and 
expands  the  fibres.  Repeat  the  operation  every  second  day  while  under 
treatment,  applying  the  remedy  also  along  the  coronary  band.  If  necessary 
to  pack  the  hoof  use  Conkey's  Hoof  Remedy  mixed  with  bran,  to  a  heavy 
paste.  Never  use  cow-dung  or  similar  disease  producing  packing.  This 
treatment  cannot  be  improved  on. 

Soaking  the  horse's  feet  every  week  for  J/2  hour,  using  a  wide  wooden 
tray  or  a  tub,  with  an  inch  of  Noxicide  solution  in  it,  is  recommended  for 
preyentative  treatment.  An  inch  depth  of  water  will  be  enough,  since  the 
moisture  will  be  absorbed  from  the  bottom  of  the  foot,  not  through  the 
horny  walls  of  the  hoof.  Such  a  soak-tub  can  be  easily  made  at  home  and 
will  be  found  very  convenient,  as  it  can  be  carried  to  different  stalls  as 
needed. 


*Conkey's  Nox-i-cide  Dip  and  Disinfectant,  mixed  with  water  according  to  directions. 


GOOD   CARE 


75 


WHO'S  YOUR         Don't  trust  too  fully  that  every  blacksmith  knows  all 

HORSESHOER?      he  should  or  can  give  all  necessary  attention  to  your 

horse's  hoofs.    Watch  the  feet  yourself,  and  keep  them 

healthy  and  clean.  Hoofs  on  the  hind  feet  grow  faster  than  those  on  the 
front  feet.  On  the  average  the  hoof  grows  at  the  rate  of  y$  in.  per  month. 
If  not  kept  trimmed  for  even  contact  with  the  ground  the  result  is  a  split 
toe  or  other  crack  in  the  hoof  substance.  Keep  them  trimmed  and  save 
all  this  trouble  later. 


a— Foot  axis  broken  backward,  from  toe 

too  long. 

b— Well  balanced  foot. 
c — Foot  axis  broken  forward,  from   over- 

„ growth  of  the  quarters. 

c— Stumpy  foot,  short  hoof,  less  expansion          Dotted  lines  through  the  hoof  show  how  to 
of  the  heel.  correct  the  axis  by  cutting. 


a— Angle  is  too  acute,  gives  greater  length 
of  hoof  in  contact  with  the  ground; 
greater  expansion  of  the  heel. 

b— Regular  hoof,  foot  axis  straight,  angle 
45  degrees. 


Occasionally  it  is  necessary  to  use  the  rasp  to  correct  faulty  develop- 
ment, but  care  must  be  taken  not  to  abuse  it,  as  blacksmiths  sometimes  do. 
Frogs,  heels  and  bars  should  not  be  mutilated  with  the  knife.  Shoes  should 
be  set  once  a  month  to  prevent  the  feet  from  becoming  too  long,  and  the 
horse  should  have  plenty  of  exercise  to  maintain  the  foot's  healthy  condi- 
tion. Washing  thoroughly  every  few  days  and  applying  a  quick  dressing  of 
Conkey's  Hoof  Remedy  will,  under  most  conditions,  keep  the  horse's  feet  in 
perfect  order. 

PATRONIZE  A       Neglect  of  the  feet  is  always  expensive.     Learn  how 

GOOD  SHOER         to  take  care   of  them  properly,   especially   during  the 

laying-up  period.     Or  better  still,  select  a  horseshoer 

who  knows  his  business,  and  spend  about  fifty  cents  a  month  for  trimming' 
and  examining  the  feet  of  your  unused  horse.  It  will  save  the  horse,  the 
shoer  and  certainly  the  owner  much  future  trouble;  and  for  the  owner 
trouble  means  more  money  expended.  Thrush,  seedy  toe,  crack,  etc.,  are 
some  of  the  diseases  that  follow  overgrowth  and  stable  neglect  of  a  horse's 
foot. 


WHO  CURRIES 
YOUR  HORSE? 


The  care  of  the  horse's  body,  his  daily  grooming, 
can  be  given  in  two  ways — a  right  way  and  a  wrong 
way.  Proper  grooming  is  exceedingly  important 
to  the  health  as  well  as  appearance  of  the  horse.  It  does  more  than  clean 
the  coat  from  any  surface  dirt;  it  opens  the  pores  so  that  the  body  poisons 
can  be  more  readily  thrown  off  through  these  important  channels;  invigor- 
ates circulation  so  that  every  organ  is  stimulated  to  activity,  and  relaxes 
muscles  and  nerves  and  soothes  by  the  stroking. 

A  horse  should  always  be  groomed  after  hard  exercising.  Some 
owners  take  pleasure  in  doing  this  themselves,  and  doing  it  well;  others 
call  in  the  first  farm  hand  "handy"  and  don't  always  wait  to  see  if  the 
work  is  well  done.  Besides,  there  are  some  important  things  about  groom- 
ing which  horseowners  themselves  do  not  always  seem  to  know. 

THE  CURRY-COMB         One  of  these  is  the  use  of  the  curry-comb.    This 

instrument   of  torture    should  be  used   sparingly 
on  the  body  of  a  horse,  never  on  the  legs.    Its  best  use  is  to  clean  the  brush. 


76 CONKEY'S  STOCK  BOOK 

HOW  TO  CLEAN         Here  are  the  proper  things  for  cleaning  a  horse; 

A  HORSE  curry-comb,    dandy    brush,    body    brush,    rubbing 

cloths,  chamois  skin,  sponge,  pail  of  water  and  wisp 

of  straw.  Never  clean  your  horse  in  the  stall  any  more  than  you  would 
black  your  boots  in  bed.  Take  him  outside  if  the  weather  is  right;  if  not, 
cross-tie  him  in  the  open  stable  and  proceed  as  follows:  Dampen  the  wisp 
of  straw,  twist  into  a  rope  two  feet  long  and  tie  a  knot  in  it.  With  this 
wisp  start  at  neck  and  rub  vigorously  both  ways  of  the  hair  over  every  part 
of  the  body  and  legs.  Next  take  body  brush  and  curry-comb  and  brush  the 
right  way  of  hair.  Remove  the  dirt  from  the  brush  by  drawing  curry-comb 
through  it  at  intervals.  Next  take  sponge  and  wipe  eyes,  nostrils  and  muz- 
zle. Raise  tail  and  sponge  legs  and  between  them.  Next  take  a  foot  hook, 
lift  up  feet  and  pick  any  foreign  substances,  examining  feet  for  loose  shoes, 
etc.  Now  hold  each  foot  over  water  pail  and  scrub  with  water  brush;  then 
wipe  with  sponge.  By  this  time  the  coat  is  dry  from  sponging.  Take  rub 
cloths  and  smooth  the  hair  with  long,  even  strokes.  Apply  Conkey's  Hoof 
Remedy  with  small  brush,  covering  all  parts  of  the  foot.  Dampen  dandy 
brush  and  brush  mane  and  tail  carefully.  If  there  are  any  chafes  or  sores 
on  body  or  legs,  apply  Conkey's  Healing  Powder.  If  hair  is  worn  off  or 
skin  harsh  in  spots,  apply  a  little  vaseline  or  bland  oil. 

This  operation  has  taken  about  thirty  minutes,  the  animal  is  clean  to 
his  skin,  and  he  has  not  been  tortured  by  the  curry-comb. 

THE  SHEATH  Geldings  and  stallions  should  have  the  sheath  washed  as 
often  as  is  necessary.  Use  a  soft  sponge,  warm  water 
and  a  few  drops  of  Conkey's  Pi-No,  enough  to  make  a  bland,  soapy  solution, 
which  will  quickly  remove  any  accumulation  and  in  addition  leave  the 
sheath  what  is  called  surgically  clean,  so  that  all  danger  of  infection  is 
positively  avoided.  Soap  is  apt  to  be  astringent  and  harmful.  Do  not 
ever  apply  grease  or  oil,  as  it  has  a  tendency  to  collect  dirt  and  favors 
germ  development.  If  soap  is  used,  be  sure  to  rinse  well  with  clear  water 
so  that  no  trace  of  suds  remains  to  irritate  the  delicate  membrane. 

SHIPPING  AND  Horses  should  be  in  moderate  flesh  for  shipment 

SEASONING  HORSES    and  in  good  health  and  well  exercised  condition. 

The   tails   should  be  well   braided  and   done   up 

in  burlap  to  prevent  injury.  Good  laxative  food  should  be  given  for  twenty- 
four  hours  before  shipping.  The  safest  way  is  to  ship  them  bare-footed 
after  rasping  the  edges  of  the  hoofs  to  prevent  breaking.  A  horse  should 
not  have  too  great  an  amount  of  room  in  a  car,  as  he  is  likely  to  be  thrown 
and  injured.  When  unloaded,  horses  are  often  very  hungry,  and  care  should 
be  taken  that  they  do  not  overeat  when  their  tired  and  .nervous  condition 
invites  indigestion.  Conkey's  Distemper  Remedy  is  valuable  right  at  this 
time.  It  should  always  be  used  for  the  so-called  shipping  fever  and  all 
cases  where  symptoms  of  either  chills  or  fever  are  noticed.  Care  should 
be  taken  to  get  the  horse  back  to  its  normal  condition.  If  the  horse  seems 
simply  fagged  out  without  direct  symptoms  of  cold  or  fever,  Conkey's 
Horse  Tonic  will  be  found  the  greatest  regulator,  as  it  puts  the  animal  in 
the  best  possible  condition  in  the  shortest  possible  time. 

Horses  that  are  shipped  in  from  a  distance  and  are  unaccustomed  to 
the  climatic  conditions  and  general  surroundings,  are  usually  called  green 
horses,  and  they  do  not  become  "seasoned"  until  they  are  thoroughly  accli- 
mated— used  to  the  feed  and  water,  and  well  used  to  the  work.  Such 
animals  are  usually  fat  and  out  of  condition,  and  while  they  may  seem 
full  of  spirit  and  ambition,  they  are  "soft"  and  should  not  be  given  hard 
pulling  or  driving.  At  this  particular  stage  a  horse's  ambition  can  be 


GOOD   CARE 


77 


destroyed  while  he  is  yet  young;  and  he  is  likely  to  become  an  unsound, 
played-out  horse  before  he  has  reached  his  natural  prime.  Light  work  and 
good  care,  for  a  season,  will  temper  him  to  the  new  conditions,  preserve 
his  best  qualities,  and  make  him  a  useful  animal. 

Treat  your  horse  right  and  he  will  work  for  you  full  twenty  years. 

Start  all  horses  gradually  into  heavy  work,  especially  the  colts.  Give 
the  muscles  time  to  harden  and  develop  to  meet  the  strain. 

THE  Look  well  to  the  collar, 

COLLAR  the  center  of  strain  and 
the  center  of  power.  See 
that  it  is  neither  too  big  nor  too 
small,  but  fits  easily  and  does  not  tor- 
ture. Most  injured  shoulders  are  the 
result  of  badly  fitted  collars.  Let 
your  harness-maker  fit  the  collar  to 
your  horse,  removing  the  padding  or 
making  the  collar  over  if  necessary  to 
make  it  fit  nicely.  Poorly  made  or 
poorly  fitting  harness  makes  a  big 
difference  in  horse  power.  Clean  the 
collar  of  all  sweat  and  dirt,  for  dirty 
collars  are  a  common  cause  of  sore 
shoulders.  The  greatest  strength  of 

a  horse  is  limited  by  his  own  worst  point,  or  the  most  serious  fault  with  his 
harness. 

Many  a  horse  is  blamed  for  faults  that  are  his  driver's. 

THE  BIT     For  instance,  "pullers"  are  made,  not  foaled.     Change   to   a 

milder  bit. 

A  rubber  covered  mouth-piece  will  cure  many  a  case  of 
pulling.  The  bit  should  be  just  above  the  "tush,"  with  check-strap  short 
enough  to  keep  the  bit  from  coming  in  contact  with  the  nippers,  and  yet 
long  enough  to  leave  the  mouth  easy  at  the  corners. 

A  frosty  bit  is  a  good  thing  to  put  in  your  own  mouth  some  cold 
morning  if  you  want  to  see  how  it  will  make  an  animal  behave. 

A  good  bit  is  one  that  gives  most  control  to  the  driver,  both  for  speed 
and  direction;  and  yet  does  it  with  the  least  annoyance  to  the  horse.  The 
half-check  snaffle  bit  used  nine  times  in  ten  has  no  flexibility.  Try  a  Liver- 
pool bit  for  driving  and  a  Weymouth  bit  for  riding. 


THE  GOLDEN  RULE 


Feed  well,  care  well,  drive  well — and  you'll  prob- 
ably get  on  without  doctoring. 


WHAT  RUINS  Nagging  when  on  the  road,  always  driving  at  highest 
HORSES  speed,  twitching  the  lines,  touching  him  up,  pulling  up 

with  a  short  stop,  starting  off  with  a  burst  of  speed — 
will  ruin  your  horse,  so  that  he  will  probably  last  you  about  two  years,  and 
then  be  "knocked  out"  for  use  on  the  road. 

A  horse  has  nerves,  same  as  you  and  I.  Don't  keep  him  keyed  up 
at  fever  heat.  The  more  spirited  the  animal  thus  treated,  the  greater  the 
outrage. 

Gentleness,  kindness,  quietness  are  the  prime  requisites  in  handling 
animals,  and  especially  horses. 


78 CONKEY'S  STOCK  BOOK 

WHEN  A  Every  horseman  has  his  favorite  treatment  for  balking — 

HORSE  BALKS     some  humane,  but  most  of  these  "cures"  are  extremely 
inhuman.      It    is    usually   foolish    to   whip    or    scold    or 
otherwise   abuse   a   balker — it   only    increases   the   animal's   resentment   or 
nervousness,  whichever  has  caused  the  balking. 

Often  kindness  is  the  only 
thing  necessary  to  get  the  horse 
started — a  little  petting,  coaxing, 
perhaps  an  apple  or  a  lump  of 
sugar.  Sometimes  it  is  necessary 
to  distract  the  aggrieved  animal's 
attention,  and  one  of  the  best  ways 
to  do  this  is  to  get  down  and  hold 
up  one  forefoot  for  a  few  minutes, 
or  pound  on  the  shoe  (lightly)  with  a  stone.  If  a  bad  case,  take  a 
little  time  for  the  following,  not  forgetting  to  give  the  animal  first  a 
little  petting:  Go  to  the  bits.  With  a  strap  fastened  around  one  front  leg 
between  the  hoof  and  fetlock  draw  up  the  foot,  if  necessary  tying  it  up, 
by  fastening  the  strap  to  the  hames.  The  horse  will  soon  get  tired  of  this 
three-legged  business,  but  let  him  have  a  full  treatment,  holding  him  by 
the  bit  and  "whoaing"  him  kindly  at  each  attempt  to  start.  When  thor- 
oughly tired  of  this  balking,  let  down  the  foot  and  you  will  probably  have 
no  more  trouble.  However,  repeat  the  treatment  if  necessary  the  next 
time,  giving  him  a  longer  taste  of  it. 

WHEN  YOU  When  you  buy  a  horse  there  are  two  places  you  want 

BUY  A  HORSE       to   test   him:     in    his    stall    and    outside,    putting    him 

through   his   paces.     In  his   stall   he   will   likely   show 

any  stable  vices  he  may  have,  such  as  weaving,  cribbing,  kicking  and 
crowding,  etc.  Weaving  is  a  swinging  of  the  body  from  side  to  side  for 
hours  at  a  time.  Some  horses  are  continually  kicking  and  pawing  at  the 
sides  of  the  stall.  Cribbing  is  sometimes  prevented  by  buckling  a  strap 
around  the  horse's  neck,  just  back  of  the  ears.  When  you  see  such  a  strap 
you  can  suspect  a  cribber.  Notice  particularly  if  the  horse  stands  squarely 
on  his  feet,  without  "pointing"  a  foot  to  get  relief  from  lameness  or  sore- 
ness. Look  out  for  halter-pulling,  which  is  very  annoying.  If  a  horse  is 
gently  made  to  stand  over  in  the  stall  he  may  show  evidence  of  stringhalt 
and  his  hind  feet  seem  fastened  to  the  floor,  while  it  might  not  be  noticeable 
if  he  was  made  to  jump  about  in  the  yard. 

OUTDOOR  You  want  to  see  your  prospective  horse  outdoors  be- 

EXAMINATION      fore  you  buy  him.     There  you  can  put  him  through 

his  paces,  test  his  action.     Watch  the  head  and  neck 

when  testing  for  lameness.  If  the  horse  has  a  foreleg  lame  he  will  lift  his 
head  each  time;  if  a  hind  leg,  he  will  keep  his  head  down. 

Outdoors,  where  you  have  plenty  of  good  light,  go  over  the  animal 
point  by  point,  examining  every  part  of  the  body  for  defect  or  disease. 
Don't  simply  look  at  his  feet  and  legs.  Don't  trust  your  eyes.  Examine 
legs,  shoulders,  etc.,  with  the  hand  as  well.  Irregularities  are  then  plainly 
noticeable.  If  he  has  quality  let  him  show  it  all  over. 

EXAMINATION  Begin  at  the  head,  and  go  over  first  one  side  and  then 
IN  DETAIL  the  other.  Examine  as  follows: 

The  nostril  for  suspicious  discharges;  the  mucous 

membrane  lining  should  be  a  bright,  healthy  pink,  free  from  disagreeable 
odor.  Watch  for  signs  of  recent  cleaning  and  be  suspicious  of  a  dull, 


GOOD  CARE 


79 


bluish  color.  The  mouth  should  be  looked  at  as  to  age  and  bad  teeth, 
which  mean  poor  mastication.  The  tongue  should  be  healthy  and  without 
offensive  odor.  Notice  if  glands  are  enlarged  or  grow  fast  to  adjoining 
tissues.  Look  to  the  eye;  shade  it  and  expose  it  quickly  to  light  to  see  if 
the  pupil  dilates  naturally;  it  should  also  be  free  from  specks  and  cloudiness, 
though  the  regular  "spot-spots"  are  natural  and  should  not  be  noticed. 
Examine  the  eye  for  discharges  and  inflammation. 

The  throat  should  be  free  from  any  thickness  or  enlargement  of  the 
glands.  Examine  the  head  for  any  evidence  of  Poll  Evil  and  for  swelling, 
and  see  if  the  horse  will  easily  allow  the  bridle  and  halter.  Examine  the 
withers  for  fistulas,  running  sores,  tumors,  galls,  collar  boils,  and  sweeny. 
Look  for  capped  elbow  or  shoe  boils.  See  if  the  knee  has  a  bony  enlargement, 
or  scars  which  would  indicate  stumbling.  Look  for  all  scars  or  bunches 
showing  hitting  or  "interfering"  of  opposite  feet  in  action.  Feel  for  splints 
on  the  inside  of  the  fore  leg  and  for  bony  bunches  on  the  outside.  See 
that  back  tendons  are  smooth  and  that  the  animal  is  not  knee-sprung  as  it 
stands  squarely  on  its  feet.  Watch  out  for  "firing"  marks  indicating  past 
lameness.  The  fetlock  and  pastern  joints  should  be  examined  for  ring- 
bones, bunches,  etc.  Lameness  is  often  disguised  by  hypodermic  injections 
of  cocaine,  so  watch  out  for  small  puffy  places  over  the  large  nerves.  Scars 
at  these  points  would  indicate  that  the  animal  has  been  "nerved,"  which  is 
usually  the  operation  of  cutting  the  nerve  for  navicular  disease.  At  the 
top  of  hoof  on  either  side,  see  that  the  lateral  cartilages  are  not  ossified, 
forming  sidebones.  See  that  the  walls  of  the  hoof  show  no  evidence  of 
seedy  toe,  sand  cracks,  or  quarter  cracks.  Examine  the  bottom  of  the  foot 
for  corns  and  the  cleft  of  the  frog  for  thrush. 

Now  go  over  the  side  and  belly  looking  for  tumors  and  hernia;  and, 
in  the  male,  the  penis  and  sheath  should  be  looked  to  for  tumors  and 
disease.  The  muscles  of  the  hip  should  be  examined  for  scars,  and  the 
stifle  joint  for  enlargement  or 
tenderness  that  would  point  to 
stifle.  Examine  the  hock  joint 
for  capped  hock,  curb,  etc. 
Look  for  both  bone  spavin  and 
bog  spavin.  At  the  point  of  the 
hock  look  for  thorough-pin. 
Below  the  hock  look  for  ring- 
bone, scratches  and  foot  dis- 
eases. Now  take  the  other  side 
in  the  same  manner. 

Look    for    symmetry    of    both 
sides;    the    hips,    legs,    nostrils, 
lips,  eyes,  etc.     Listen  to  lung  and  heart  action.     See  if  head  and  tail  are 
carried  squarely — and  you  have  a  good  idea  of  the  worth  of  the  animal. 


Too/»rb«}.ir«i 


BREED  MORE —    But  the  best  thing  is  to  breed  more  and  buy  less. 
BUY  LESS  Buying    is    a    habit,    often    a    bad    one.      There    is    no 

reason  why  the  average  farmer  should  not  benefit  him- 
self and  livestock  breeding  by  raising  colts  for  his  own  use  and  for  market. 
Figure  the  profit  of  the  average  farm  with  a  few  serviceable  mares  put  to 
pure-bred  sires,  and  a  few  good  colts  every  year — well  fed,  trained  well  and 
sold,  say  at  about  five  years  of  age,  when  well  broken  to  work.  This 
country  is  coming  more  and  more  to  be  recognized  as  the  best  for  horses. 
The  United  States  actually  lead?  the  world  in  horse  breeding  today;  but 
she  doesn't  know  it! 


80 CONKEY'S   STOCK   BOOK 

Meanwhile  American  horse  buyers  are  keeping  up  an  old-fashioned 
and  useless  habit  in  importing  so  many  horses  when  they  can  buy  the  best 
in  their  own  country.  Chief  Rommel,  of  the  Bureau  of  Animal  Husbandry, 
says  there  is  no  equal  to  the  American  horse  anywhere  in  the  world.  He 
says: 

WHAT  ROMMEL       "Horse     breeding     is     constantly     improving.       The 
SAYS  farmers   are  going  in   for  raising   draft  horses;   and 

for   good   ones   there   is   an   eager  market   at   prices 
which  would  have  astounded  the  farmer  a  decade  ago. 

KENTUCKY —      "The   most   intelligent   breeding  is   being   done   in   Ken- 
HOORAY!  tucky.     There   they   have   had   long   experience   and   the 

farmers    understand    the    principles    back    of    the    work. 
Practically  no  draft  horses,  however,  are  to  be  found  in  that  region. 

CORN  DIET  "The  best  draft  horses  in  this  country  are  bred 

FOR  DRAFT  BREEDS      in  what  is  known  as  the  corn  belt,  which  runs 

from    Kansas    and    Nebraska,    on    the    west,    to 
Ohio  on  the  east,  and  of  which  Iowa  and  Illinois  are  the  center. 

THE  HORSE  "Figures  show  that  horses  are  not  diminishing — in  fact, 
STILL  KING  there  are  more  horses  in  this  country  than  ever.  If  the 
motor  car  has  driven  out  the  saddle  and  carriage  horse 
generally,  why  is  it  that  these  are  higher  in  price  than  before  the  motor 
car  came? 

"There  is  a  better  market  than  ever  for  the  good  horse — and  a  poorer 
than  ever  for  the  poor  one." 


The  Evolution  of  a  Horse 


RAISING   MULES 


81 


MULES 

IT  costs  less  to  breed  and  raise  a  mule  than  a  horse.  The  selling  price 
is  usually  higher,  quality  for  quality;  the  demand  is  always  there. 
Besides  this,  a  mule  is  usually  marketable  earlier  than  a  horse,  and 
keeps  useful  even  longer.  It  is  a  common  thing  for  mules  to  live  twenty 
years  or  more  in  active  service;  and  many  live  to  thirty,  even  to  forty 
years. 

While  mules  should  have  just  as  good  care  as  horses,  they  seem  not 
to  expect  much  luck  in  life;  and  with  genuine  philosophy,  make  the  most 
of  what  they  get.  A  mule  will  pull  through  under  conditions  that  would 
make  a  horse  give  up  life  in  disgust.  A  mule  is  tougher,  hardier  every  way 
than  a  horse.  Most  authorities  agree  that  the  mule  is  less  liable  to  disease. 
There  is  some  dispute  as  to  whether  a  mule  requires  less  feed  than  a  horse; 
but  experience  shows  that  at  least  the  mule  makes  more  thrifty  gains  on 
low  grade  feeds  than  the  horse. 

It  is  certainly  true  that  a  mule  can  do  more  work  than  a  horse;  and 
can  work  under  harder  conditions,  over  rough  or  hilly  ground,  and  in  the 
heat  of  burning  sun.  The  mule  is  sure-footed — he  has  heels  for  hills.  He 
comes  down  a  hill  at  a  cautious  gait;  but  he  takes  a  hill  at  a  run,  even 
when  heavily  loaded. 

MULE  POINTS  This  hybrid  animal,  the  cross  of  mare  and  jackass,  is 
said  to  get  its  body  shape  from  the  mare,  together  with 
the  good  horse  qualities  of  courage  and  strength.  Its  patience,  endurance, 
faithfulness  and  hardiness  it  gets  from  the  jack,  along  with  the  jack's  big 
head,  large  bones,  and  long  narrow  feet.  There  used  to  be  an  old- 
fashioned  idea  that  this  hybrid  offspring  would  not  inherit  the  constitu- 
tional defects  of  the  mare;  and  mares  past  their  usefulness  for  good  colts 
would  then  be  bred  to  jacks.  Commonsense,  and  also  a  higher,  more 
critical  demand  now  call  for  the  best  quality  in  both  dam  and  sire;  and 
the  really  high  grade  muie  today  is  dropped  by  a  good  specimen  draft 
brood  mare.  The  market  demands  good  size,  and  style  and  finish,  strong 


82 CONKEY'S   STOCK   BOOK 

bone,  big  barrel  of  the  body,  but  not  "paunched,"  and  a  foot  as  large  as 
possible;  although  of  course  the  mule  foot  is  narrower  and  longer  than 
the  foot  of  the  horse. 

THE  JACK  The  native  jack,  which  is  really  the  product  of  a  crossing 
of  all  the  imported  breeds,  the  Poitou,  Andalusian,  Maltese, 
Catalonian  and  Majorca,  is  considered  the  best  by  most  mule  breeders  in 
this  country.  The  variable  color  of  the  native  jack  is  a  fault  which  more 
careful  breeding  is  correcting;  so  that  black  will  be  the  fixed  color.  The 
native  jack  is  particularly  healthy,  and  has  larger  legs  and  feet  than  any 
imported  breed,  which  accounts  for  its  preference  here.  Whatever  the 
breed,  remember  the  following  points  in  selecting  a  jack:  He  must  be  at 
least  15  hands  high,  not  fat  but  heavy,  with  strong  bones,  a  broad  chest, 
and  good  strong  hips.  Usually  such  a  jack  has  a  coarse  head;  but  better 
sacrifice  quality  of  the  head  for  the  important  elements  of  strength  and 
weight.  Always  select  a  dark  color,  because  color  plays  an  important  part 
in  the  market  demand  for  mules. 

THE  MARE  The  mare  should  be  of  good  draft  type,  or  a  very  good 
grade  from  Percheron,  Clydesdale  or  Belgian;  she  should 
be  a  good  individual,  sound  in  health  and  without  blemish.  Look  especially 
for  a  fine  clean  head,  broad  chest,  wide  hips,  and  attractive  style  and 
carriage.  The  mare  should  also  be  of  dark  color,  on  account  of  the  market 
discrimination  against  light-colored  mules.  Remember  that  the  trade 
demand  is  for  a  good  draft  type  of  body  in  the  mule,  and  that  the  mule 
tends  to  inherit  body  form  from  the  dam. 

THE  MULE  This  country  is  appreciative  of  the  mule.     The  Span- 

HAS  FRIENDS         iards  in  1591  first  brought  mules  to  America,  most  of 

these  going  to  Mexico.     But  all  through  colonial  times 

the  mule  was  appreciated  and  George  Washington,  Henry  Clay  and  other 
early  Americans  made  a  specialty  of  breeding  them.  The  mule  exactly 
suited  the  southern  planters  and  was  the  animal  relied  on  in  working 
southern  plantations.  In  later  years,  the  strength  and  hardiness  of  the  mule 
have  put  him  in  favor  for  city  work  and  general  hauling.  In  fact,  wherever 
there  are  hard  conditions  of  work,  or  climate,  or  bad  roads,  you  will  find 
the  mule  making  the  best  of  it.  In  general,  preference  is  given  the  female 
mule  as  the  hardier  and  the  better  worker. 

Missouri,  Texas  and  Tennessee  are  the  chief  mule  raising  States,  but 
Mississippi  and  Georgia  are  close  followers.  Alabama,  Kentucky,  Arkansas, 
Louisiana  and  both  the  Carolinas  are  important  in  the  mule  industry.  There 
are  now  about  3,500,000  mules  in  this  country,  with  an  average  value  of  $150 
— a  higher  average  than  that  of  the  horse.  There  has  never  yet  been  enough 
to  meet  the  market  demand,  and  the  large  numbers  of  mules  offered  in  the 
stockyards  of  Chicago,  Kansas  City,  St.  Louis  and  St.  Paul  go  quickly  and 
always  at  good  prices.  In  fact,  enthusiastic  breeders  claim  there  is  fully 
twice  as  much  money  in  raising  mules,  marketing  them  when  five  years 
old,  as  is  made  in  raising  horses.  It  looks  like  a  good  proposition  when  you 
consider  the  following  comparisions,  namely  that  mules, — 

(1)  Cost  less  than  horses  to  breed  and  raise; 

(2)  Are  sooner  prepared  for  market  than  colts; 

(3)  Find  readier  sale,  at  any  period;  in  any  number; 

(4)  Command  more  as  colts  than  horse  colts  of  equal  quality; 

(5)  Suffer  fewer  diseases  and  seem  less  liable  to  accidents. 

Is  it  any  wonder,  then,  the  mule  has  friends? 


DISEASES   OF  HORSES 83 

Common  Diseases  of  Horses 

ABSCESS  An  abcess  is  a  collection  or  "gathering"  of  pus  or  serum  which 
may  form  in  any  part  of  the  body.  It  may  be  caused  by  a 
blow,  by  constant  irritation  or  may  be  the  result  of  infection.  A  swelling 
first  appears  which  becomes  hot  and  painful.  At  first  it  is  hard  but  gradually 
softens  and  when  it  breaks  open,  discharges  a  large  amount  of  pus. 

If  the  abscess  is  slow  in  forming  and  remains  hard,  it  may  be  softened 
by  hot  poultices,  frequently  changed.  Use  linseed  poultice  mixed  with  a 
few  drops  of  Conkey's  Nox-i-cide  Dip  and  Disinfectant. 

In  case  the  abscess  does  not  break  of  its  own  accord,  it  must  be  opened. 
For  this  purpose  use  a  sharp,  narrow  knife,  which  has  been  placed  in  a 
solution  of  Nox-i-cide  Dip  and  Disinfectant  or  sterilized  by  boiling  in  water 
for  at  least  20  minutes.  Make  an  opening  where  the  contents  of  the  abscess 
will  drain  out  easily.  It  is  well  to  keep  on  poulticing  for  a  day  or  two  after 
opening  the  abscess. 

The  abscess  is  to  be  thoroughly  cleaned  once  a  day  and  washed  out 
with  a  solution  of  Nox-i-cide  Dip  and  Disinfectant,  one  table-spoonful  Nox- 
i-cide  to  a  quart  of  warm  water. 

Then  Conkey's  Healing  Powder  should  be  well  dusted  in.  The  mouth 
of  the  abscess  must  be  kept  open  to  allow  the  escape  of  the  pus  as  it  forms 
and  a  piece  of  clean  cloth  or  oakum  dipped  in  Nox-i-cide  solution,  same 
strength  as  above,  can  be  inserted  in  the  wound  for  that  purpose. 

APPETITE— ANY     Conkey's    Stock   Tonic    mixed    with    the    regular    feed 

DERANGEMENT      three  times  a  day  according  to  directions  will  improve 

the  appetite,  correct  faults  of  digestion,  and  act  as  a 

tonic  and  regulator  of  all  digestive  organs.  Examine  the  teeth  for  they 
may  need  attention. 

ASTHMA —  The  precise  nature  of  these  diseases  is  not  yet  perfectly 

BROKEN  WIND     understood.     They  most  often  follow  on  chronic  indi- 
gestion, from  the  use  of  musty  hay  or  bad  grain;  but 

may  be  inherited,  as  a  delicate,  round-chested  horse  seems  especially  sus- 
ceptible. Sometim.es  the  trouble  comes  from  irritation  of  the  breathing 
passages  from  dusty  or  dirty  hay.  In  this  case  Asthma,  Broken  Wind  and 
Heaves  become'  very  much  alike.  There  is  a  short  wheezy  cough,  labored 
breathing  when  the  horse  is  worked,  and  all  symptoms  very  much  worse 
just  after  eating. 

Treatment  Give  Conkey's  Heave  Relief  according  to  directions.  Put  the 
horse  on  concentrated,  laxative  feed,  such  as  mashes  or  bran 
or  oats;  and  moisten  both  the  grain  and  the  hay  ration  with  lime  water. 
Feed  small  quantities  at  a  time,  so  as  to  avoid  any  danger  of  overloading 
the  stomach.  The  animal  should  be  watered  before  feeding  and  never 
directly  after  a  meal,  nor  should  it  be  put  to  work  immediately  after 
eating.  Build  up  the  system  and  correct  the  digestion  by  the  use  of 
Stock  Tonic  according  to  directions.  Keep  up  the  Stock  Tonic  treatment 
for  a  considerable  period — until  the  horse  shows  general  improved  con- 
dition. It  is  very  difficult  to  cure  these  troubles,  and  treatment  should  be 
persisted  in  and  not  dropped  as  soon  as  the  horse  shows  improvement. 

AZOTURIA  This  is  marked  by  a  sort  of  paralysis  of  the  hindquarters 
which  comes  on  suddenly  when  a  horse  starts  working  after 
a  rest  of  a  day  or  so  in  the  stable.  The  large  muscles  in  the  hindquarter  feel 
rigid,  and  there  is  no  sensation.  The  horse  goes  down,  and  can  not  rise. 
There  is  great  pain,  he  sweats  profusely,  the  temperature  is  not  high,  but 


84 CONKEY'S  STOCK  BOOK 

the  pulse  is  very  rapid.  The  urine  is  a  very  dark  brown,  almost  black.  The 
disease  is  sometimes  fatal  in  from  12  to  36  hours.  The  cause  is  known  to 
be  over-production  of  nitrogenized  substances,  which  accumulate  in  the 
muscles  and  blood  from  high  feeding  during  idleness.  In  fact,  this  is  often 
called  the  "Monday  morning  disease"  because  it  commonly  occurs  after  the 
rest-day,  Sunday. 

Treatment  To  excite  action  of  the  skin  apply  hot  wet  blankets  to  the 
body  and  cover  with  a  dry  blanket.  (Or  use  a  dry  hot  pack  of 
salt  or  oats.)  Rub  the  loins  with  Conkey's  Warming  Liniment;  or  use 
mustard  for  this  purpose.  Keep  the  horse  on  his  feet,  if  necessary  using 
a  sling.  Give  a  dose  of  aloes  3-6  drams  to  clear  the  bowels;  then  give 
2  drams  each  of  bromide  of  potasium  and  iodide  of  potasium,  and  con- 
tinue using  these  last  two  at  intervals  of  2  hours  for  the  first  day  or  as 
may  be  required  to  calm  the  nervous  excitement.  Give  a  plentiful  supply 
of  drinking  water  of  an  agreeable  temperature.  If  necessary,  draw  off  the 
urine  with  a  catheter.  On  the  second  day,  saltpetre  in  ^  ounce  doses  may 
be  given  twice  daily  to  stimulate  the  kidneys.  As  the  horse  gets  better, 
put  on  regular  feed,  with  Conkey's  Stock  Tonic  mixed  in  it  according  to 
directions.  This  will  tone  the  whole  system  quickly  and  greatly  shorten 
the  period  of  convalescence.  For  quick  relief  some  veterinarians  advocate 
bleeding  from  the  jugular  vein,  but  this  treatment  should  not  be  attempted 
by  any  but  experienced  horsemen. 

Prevention    Attention  to  feed  and  exercise  will  prevent  this  accumulation 
of  poison  in  the  muscles  and  blood.     Cut  down  on  such  feeds 
as  oats,  beans,  peas,  etc.,  when  the  horse  is  not  at  work.     A  good  rule  is 
to  give  only  one-half  as  much  grain  when  horse  is  idle. 

Another  caution:  In  taking  a  horse  out  after  a  rest  of  a  day  or  so  in 
the  stable,  go  slowly  and  watch  for  the  first  symptoms  of  dullness,  stiffness, 
and  profuse  sweating;  then  stop  immediately  and  get  him  into  a  box  stall 
for  treatment.  Taken  in  time,  Azoturia  is  seldom  fatal;  but  it  is  a  very 
dangerous  disease  when  neglected  until  the  horse  goes  down. 

BARB-WIRE  Often  these  are  nasty  things  to  heal  but  even  the  worst 
CUTS  cases  respond  to  Conkey  treatment.  If  the  cut  is  slight, 

dust  on  it  Conkey's  Healing  Powder,  which  will  unite  the 
skin  and  soon  heal  the  wound  over.  If  deeper,  use  Conkey's  Pain  Lotion 
as  directed,  bandaging  if  necessary.  If  very  deep,  ragged  and  roomy,  cleanse 
thoroughly  with  Nox-i-cide  Dip  and  Disinfectant,  one  teaspoonful  in  a  pint  of 
soft  water,  and  dress  with  Conkey's  Pain  Lotion.  Pack  if  necessary  with 
gauze  or  oakum,  soaked  in  Pain  Lotion  of  Nox-i-cide  Dip  and  Disinfectant, 
two  teaspoonfuls  to  one  pint  of  water.  In  all  cases  get  rid  of  barb-wire 
fencing  in  your  pasture  as  its  days  of  usefulness  have  passed  and  its 
presence  is  a  constant  danger  to  stock. 

BARRENNESS      If  not  due  to  actual  disease  interfering  with  normal  func- 
tions this  trouble  can  be  corrected  in  one  of  the  following 
ways: 

Treatment  If  over-fat  put  the  mare  in  good  general  muscular  condition  by 
proper  exercise,  work,  etc.,  and  careful  feeding.  If  the  trouble 
is  not  due  to  this  simple  cause,  it  is  probably  owing  to  unnatural  acidity 
of  the  passage,  and  should  respond  to  the  following:  Flush  the  vagina  once 
daily  with  a  solution  of  2  ounces  bicarbonate  of  soda  in  one-half  gallon  of 
water,  used  lukewarm.  When  the  mare  is  seen  to  be  in  heat,  have  a  veterin- 
arian or  other  qualified  person  dilate  the  mouth  of  the  womb  and  inject  the 
solution  again.  Have  stallion  service  after  one  hour  and  before  two  hours. 


DISEASES  OF  HORSES 85 

General  good  healthy  condition  is  necessary  for  breeding.  This  general 
good  condition  is  always  secured  where  the  animals  are  given  Stock  Tonic 
occasionally  for  tonic,  alterative  treatment.  Stock  Tonic  is  an  excellent 
regulator,  and  puts  the  whole  system  in  working  order.  It  especially  acts 
on  the. organs  of  digestion — and  acts  also  on  the  walls  of  the  blood  vessels, 
increasing  their  contractile  power.  It  bXiilds  health  by  stimulating  natural 
functions;  hence  its  common-sense  efficiency. 

BITES  OF    Apply  Conkey's  Pain  Lotion,  to  relieve  all  itching  and  reduce 
INSECTS       swelling.  Pure  Nox-i-cide  can  also  be  used  if  more  convenient. 
Regular  use  of   Conkey's   Fly   Knocker  during  the   season  of 
insect  pests  will  protect  your  animals  in  the  first  place. 

BIT  Keep  the  bit  out  of  the  mouth,  and  heal  the  sores  with  daily 

SORES      swabbing  with   Nox-i-cide   solution,   using  one   teaspoonful   in   a 
pint  of  water.    Then  put  in  a  soft  bit,  and  take  care  not  to  draw  in 
too  tight  to  the  angle  of  the  mouth  with  the  check-pieces  of  the  bridle. 

BLINDNESS  The  most  common  eye  trouble  is  periodic  ophthalmia  or 
"moon-blindness."  Attacks  usually  come  at  night,  and  there 
is  redness,  tearing,  sometimes  a  scum  or  blur  over  the  eye,  with  the  pupil 
contracted  and  slow  to  respond.  After  ten  days  or  a  fortnight  the  sight 
comes  back  but  the  blind  attack  will  return  periodically.  After  five  to  eight 
attacks  cataract  develops  and  the  condition  of  blindness  is  then  permanent. 
There  is  no  way  of  curing  this  kind  of  blindness,  or  any  way  of  preventing 
the  return  of  attacks;  but  you  can  lengthen  the  period  between  attacks,  and 
hence  prolong  the  usefulness  of  the  animal  as  follows: 

Treatment  Look  to  sanitation  in  the  stable,  for  unhygienic  surroundings 
have  a  good  deal  to  do  with  periodic  ophthalmia.  Damp  or  wet 
surroundings  increase  the  trouble.  Low  vitality  favors  it;  hence  the  horse 
must  be  well  cared  for  in  general.  It  is  supposed  to  be  transmissible;  so  an 
animal  with  moon-blindness  should  not  be  bred.  Keep  the  horse  in  a  dark 
stall  during  the  attack,  or  hang  a  dark  cloth  over  the  head.  Apply  to  the 
eye  Conkey's  Eye  Remedy,  using  a  sprayer  or  a  camel's  hair  brush  or 
perfectly  clean  feather,  or  irrigate  it  with  a  medicine  dropper,  or  simply  swab 
with  a  piece  of  sterile  absorbent  cotton.  Treat  the  general  condition  by 
giving  Conkey's  Stock  Tonic,  mixed  with  the  regular  feed,  using  3  table- 
spoonfuls  of  Stock  Tonic  so  as  to  keep  the  bowels  active.  If  necessary  to 
purge,  give  aloes  or  1  quart  of  raw  linseed  oil. 

Prevention  Experiments  and  all  observations  seem  to  show  that  horses 
kept  in  sanitary  stables,  with  good  light,  good  general  care, 
good  food,  etc.,  never  have  the  first  attack.  After  one  attack,  you  can  help 
the  general  condition,  lessen  the  pain  of  the  attack  and  lengthen  intervals 
between  attacks,  but  you  cannot  permanently  cure.  Look  out  for  claims 
to  the  contrary.  We  have  never  known  a  horse  kept  in  good  general  condi- 
tion and  with  Conkey's  Stock  Tonic  used  in  the  feed  occasionally  for  tonic, 
alterative  treatment,  that  developed  periodic  ophthalmia  Stock  Tonic  insures 
good  general  healthful  condition  and  acts  as  a  preventative  of  the  first  attack. 
We  should  like  to  hear  from  horse  owners  with  their  experience. 
For  description  of  other  eye  trouble  read  under  Eyes. 

BLOOD  OUT      Symptoms  vary,  such  as  itching,  swelling,  etc.    Sometimes 

OF  ORDER  actual   sores    or   eruptions.     Usually   the   horse    shows   a 

rough  coat  and  general  unthrifty  condition.     If  there  are 

sores,   dust  the   surface  with    Conkey's    Healing   Powder   as   directed.     To 


86 


CONKEY'S   STOCK   BOOK 


prevent  itching,  wash  the  surface  with  a  solution  of  Nox-i-cide  Dip  and  Dis- 
infectant, one  teaspoonful  in  a  pint  of  water,  which  will  also  save  any  chance 
of  infection.  This  is  surface  treatment  merely;  but  it  takes  more  than  sur- 
face treatment  to  correct  blood  condition.  Hence  look  well  to  the  feed, 
and  give  the  animal  tonic  treatment  with  Conkey's  Stock  Tonic,  mixed  with 
the  regular  feed  as  directed.  Keep  this  up  for  a  week  or  two  weeks',  until 
the  animal  shows  good  condition.  This  tonic  will  be  found  mildly  laxative 
and  will  keep  the  system  open.  But  if  a  purge  is  needed  give  raw  linseed 
oil.  Never  use  castor  oil  for  horses,  as  so  often  directed.  Castor  oil  can 
be  safely  given  to  other  livestock  and  to  human  beings;  but  it  is  frequently 
poisonous  to  horseflesh. 

BOG  SPAVIN—  This  is  a  soft  swelling  usually  on  the  inner  side  of 
BLOOD  SPAVIN  the  hock,  the  result  of  some  fault  in  the  natural  con- 
formation of  the  animal;  so  that  under  special  exer- 
tion (such  as  accident  or  hard  pulling)  there  is  a  rupture  or  strain  which 
causes  an  excessive  secretion  of  the  synovial  flui 1  in  the  hock,  causing  a 
distension  of  the  bursal  sac,  (a  condition  known  as  Bog  Spavin) ;  or  dilating 
the  vein  just  under  the  skin  (which  condition  is  known  as  Blood  Spavin). 
The  two  conditions  are  easily  confused.  But  a  Bog  Spavin  is  really  a 
tumor,  while  a  Blood  Spavin  is  a  varicose  vein. 

Symptoms  The  symptoms  of  Blood  Spavin,  or  of  Bog  Spavin,  are  lame- 
ness, stiffness,  with  a  soft,  fluctuating  swelling  on  the  front 
or  inner  side  of  the  hock,  sometimes  hot  to  the  touch  and  showing  general 
inflammation.  Once  started,  the  disease  is  in  one  sense  hereditary,  since 
the  defect  in  conformation  which  caused  it  can  be  inherited. 

Treatment  Alternate  applications  of  hot  and  cold  water  bandages  should 
be  made  in  the  early  stages.  If  the  part  is  much  inflamed,  treat 
with  Conkey's  Pain  Lotion  to  reduce  the  pain  and  inflamation,  then  apply 
Conkey's  Absorbent  according  to  directions.  This  will  disperse  or  absorb 
the  gathering  without  the  pain  and  disfigurement  of  a  blister,  and  does 
away  with  the  cruel  firing  so  often  resorted  to  unnecessarily.  The  Absorb- 
ent does  its  work  without  blistering,  leaving  no  permanent  scar  or  blemish. 

BOTS  These  are  larvae  of  the  gad- 
fly, which  attach  themselves  to 
the  walls  of  the  stomach  and  intes- 
tines. The  larvae  are  developed 
from  eggs  laid  on  the  hair  of  the 
horse's  body  in  summer,  on  the  lower 
part  of  the  neck,  shoulders,  and  inner 
parts  of  the  forelegs,  around  the  knees, 
where  they  are  easily  licked  off  by  the 
horse  and  so  find  their  way  to  the 
stomach.  If  taken  into  the  stomach 
between  the  tenth  and  thirteenth  day 
after  they  are  deposited,  these  eggs 
will  develop  into  bots.  Bots  have  been 
known  to  cause  colic  pains,  but  they  Larvae  Of  the  hot  fly,  at-  Adult  hot  flies 
are  usually  harmless,  except  in  large  tached  to  wails  of  stomach 
numbers.  In  rare  cases  they  have  been 
known  to  work  to  the  peritoneum,  and  thus  cause  death. 

Symptoms     are  a  general  unthrifty  condition;  presence  of  the  matured  bots 
in  the  droppings,  especially  noticeable  in  the  spring  of  the  year. 
Symptoms  of  general  indigestion  may  be  due  to  this  cause. 


DISEASES   OF   HORSES 87 

Prevention  is  the  best  treatment,  as  follows:  During  July,  August  and 
September  examine  the  horse  on  pasture  every  three  or  four 
days  and  if  the  eggs  are  found  clip  them  off  or  rub  off,  using  a  cloth  or 
brush  dipped  in  Nox-i-cide  solution,  two  teaspoonfuls  to  one  pint  of  water. 
Spraying  the  horse  regularly,  with  Conkey's  Fly  Knocker  will  prevent  the 
fly  or  "bee"  from  alighting. 

BRONCHITIS     This  disease  is  sometimes  the  effect  of  damp,  badly  ven- 
tilated   stables,    or   it   may   follow   an    attack   of   influenza. 
Any  irritating  substance  in  the  air,   dust  or  smoke,  may  cause  it.     Look 
about  for  the  cause  and  correct  it. 

Symptoms       are  rapid  breathing,  with  rattling  in  the  windpipe,  especially 
in  the  chest;  deep  cough,  which  grows  looser.     There  is  more 
or  less  fever  and  high  pulse,  although  these  symptoms  subside  as  the  con- 
dition becomes  chionic. 

Treatment  First  relieve  the  symptoms  by  covering 
with  a  hot  blanket  and  rub  the  sides  of 
the  chest  with  Conkey's  Warming  Liniment;  or  you 
can  use  mustard  paste  made  up  with  vinegar.  Give 
this  rubbing  twice  a  day.  A  wet  p.ack  about  the 
chest  is  also  good,  but  care  must  be  taken  not  to 
/»  let  the  horse  get  chilled  in  any  way.  Make  the 
animal  inhale  steam  from  a  pail  of  boiling  water  to 
which  has  been  added  2  tablespoonfuls  of  Conkey's 
Pain  Lotion  or  instead  of  a  pail  you  can  use  the  nose 
bag.  Of  course,  the  patient  should  be  in  a  dry,  well- 
ventilated  box-stall,  the  temperature  kept  at  about 
65  degrees  Fahrenheit  as  nearly  as  possible.  For  in- 
Steaming  the  nostrils  ternal  treatment,  give  Conkey's  Distemper  and 
Fever  Remedy,  1  tablet  3  times  a  day  as 
directed.  The  animal  should  be  on  sick  diet,  such 

as  bran  mash,  roots,  grass,  etc.,  which  will  have  a  laxative  effect.  As  soon 
as  the  horse  is  on  regular  feed,  Conkey's  Stock  Tonic  should  be  mixed  with 
the  feed  according  to  directions.  This  will  keep  the  system  open,  and  also 
build  up  the  strength,  toning  and  invigorating  the  body,  so  as  to  bring 
the  patient  back  to  normal  good  health. 

BRUISED  OR  If   there    is   merely   a   breaking   of    the    skin   put    on   a 

BROKEN  KNEE     compress,  and  keep  the  part  saturated  all  the  time  with 

Conkey's    Pain   Lotion   until   all   inflammation   is   gone. 

keeping  the  horse's  head  tied  up  so  that  he  can  not  lie  down  on  the  injured 
part  before  it  heals.  If  there  is  no  inflammation,  simply  a  cut,  dust  the  place 
with  Conkey's  Healing  Powder,  which  will  heal  over  quickly.  If  the  cut 
is  deep,  clip  the  hair  and  wash  the  part  with  Nox-i-cide  Dip  and  Disinfectant 
using  a  1  per  cent,  solution,  that  is  1  teaspoonful  to  1  pint  of  water; 
dry  thoroughly,  then  dress  with  Pain  Lotion  and  bandage.  Repeat  this 
dressing  once  a  day,  with  pressure,  where  bandage  can  be  applied.  In  a 
bad  case,  use  splints.  If  the  part  gets  very  hot  or  swells,  pus  is  forming, 
and  the  bandage  should  come  off  and  this  matter  be  drained  off  at  once, 
and  the  wound  irrigated  with  antiseptic  solution,  1  teaspoonful  Nox-i-cide 
to  1  pint  of  water;  then  dry  thoroughly,  dress  with  Pain  Lotion  and  ban- 
dage. Dress  daily  until  there  is  no  more  discharge.  When  the 


88 CONKEY'S   STOCK  BOOK 

is  thoroughly  healed,  apply  Conkey's  Absorbent  over  the  whole*  joint. 
Throughout  this  treatment  keep  the  animal  on  laxative  feed,  Conkey's 
Stock  Tonic  will  be  excellent  mixed  with  the  feed,  as  it  will  keep  the  bowels 
open,  and  allay  any  tendency  to  feverish  condition. 

BURNS— See  Scalds,  page  109. 

CAPPED    ELBOW  This  is  an  inflammation  of  synovial  or  lubricat- 

HOCK  AND  ing  sacs  or  "bursae"  beneath  the  skin  or  under 

KNEE  the  tendons,  due  to  bruised  structure  under  the 

cap  of  the  hock  or  elbow,  caused  by  accident  or 

some  injury  such  as  rubbing  the  hock  in  the  stable,  night  kicking,  or  by 
the  shoes  of  the  fore  feet  pressing  or  striking  on  the  elbow  when  the 
horse  is  lying  down. 

Symptoms      are  unsightly  swelling  of  the  hock  or  elbow,  usually  hot  and 
tender,  and  filled  with  serum  or   blood;   sometimes   there   is 
no  pain,  and  the  swelling  may  fluctuate.    When  chronic,  there  is  a  thicken- 
ing of  the  structures. 

Treatment  consists  in  the  complete  rest  of  the  part,  and  continuous  wet 
antiseptic  dressings,  using  Conkey's  Pain  Lotion  on  a  bandage 
or  in  a  pack  made  of  bran.  The  bran  pack,  wet  with  Conkey's  Nox-i-cide 
Dip  and  Disinfectant,  1  teaspoonful  in  a  pint  of  soft  water,  will  be  thor- 
oughly antiseptic,  and  very  efficient,  though  not  so  soothing  a  treatment 
as  Conkey's  Pain  Lotion.  When  the  inflammation  is  out  paint  with  Conkey's 
Absorbent,  without  rubbing.  If  the  swelling  is  very  large  it  should  be 
opened  to  let  the  fluid  or  matter  out,  then  regularly  dressed  as  already 
described.  If  the  case  is  chronic  and  contains  a  hard  tumor-like  bunch 
it  should  be  cut  out.  A  roomy  box  stall  will  prevent  most  cases  of 
capped  elbow,  giving  the  animal  room  to  lie  comfortably  without  crowding 
the  heal  of  the  shoe  on  the  elbow;  or  the  shoe  heel  can  be  shortened,  or 
a  large  stuffed  ring  can  be  adjusted  around  the  leg  above  the  foot.  Plenty 
of  bedding  usually  saves  an  animal  from  capped  hock  and  capped  knees; 
unless  the  horse  has  the  habit  of  pawing  the  bedding.  Hobbling  the  hind 
feet  may  keep  the  horse  from  striking  the  hock  in  kicking. 

CASTRATION  Colts  are  usually  castrated  when  one  year  old;  the  best 
season  being  spring  or  fall  when  grass  is  good,  the 
weather  moderate,  and  there  is  no  danger  from  flies.  The  operation  may 
be  performed  when  the  colt  is  younger,  which  is  easier  and  safer  for  the 
colt;  but  when  performed  too  early,  it  tends  to  light  development  of  the 
fore  part  of  the  animal.  The  operation  is  perfectly  safe  when  attention 
is  given  to  sterilizing  the  knife  and  keeping  the  animal  in  sanitary,  disinfected 
quarters.  Nox-i-cide  Dip  and  Disinfectant,  one-half  pint  in  a  gallon  of 
water  is  a  perfect  disinfectant  and  germicide,  and  can  be  used  to  sterilize 
the  knife  and  also  to  spray  about  the  quarters.  These  simple  precautions  are 
no  more  than  would  be  necessary  for  any  surgical  operation.  The  animal 
should  be  thrown,  and  the  operation  should  be  in  charge  of  a  qualified 
veterinarian.  For  at  least  two  weeks  after  the  operation  give  the  colt 
special  care,  keeping  him  out  of  the  wet  or  cold.  Give  him  mash  feed  or 
other  light  diet  Conkey's  Stock  Tonic  mixed  with  the  feed  will  keep  the 
system  open,  and  act  as  an  excellent  tonic. 

CATARRH  This  is  an  inflamed  condition  of  the  mucous  membranes, 
COLD  usually  the  result  of  a  neglected  cold,  or  it  may  come  on  from 

exposure.     In  nasal  catarrh  there  is  an  offensive  discharge  from  one  nostril, 


DISEASES  OF  HORSES 


shivering,  perhaps  a  cough  and  inflamed  eyes.    The  horse  loses  appetite  and 
shows  a  generally  unthrifty  appearance. 

Treatment  Spray  the  nostrils  or  swab  with  Conkey's  Pain  Lotion,  or 
steam  the  nostrils  with  a  nosebag  or  a  pail  of  boiling  water, 
using  1  oz.  of  Pain  Lotion  to  1  quart  of  hot  water.  Repeat  4  or  5  times 
a  day  if  necessary,  following  directions  under  Pneumonia.  If  the  throat  is 
sore  rub  freely  with  Pain  Lotion  from  ear  to  ear.  Do  not  work  the  horse  too 
soon  but  keep  it  warm,  well  fed  on  soft  laxative  feed,  and  steam  the  nostrils 
night  and  morning.  Mix  with  the  feed  Conkey's  Stock  Tonic,  as  an  appe- 
tizer and  for  general  tonic  treatment  that  will  tend  to  lessen  the  discharge. 
A  good  bran  mash,  well  salted  with  the  home-made  Stock  Salt  already 
described  (9  parts  common  barrel  salt  and  1  part  Conkey's  Stock  Tonic) 
makes  an  excellent  feed  for  a  horse  suffering  from  catarrhal  cold  or  any 
feverish  condition  combined  with  cold. 

CHOREA— ST.  This  is  a  nervous  disorder,  most  often  affecting  young 
VITUS  DANCE  animals.  It  shows  as  involuntary  twitchings  and  move- 
ments. Usually  there  is  a  jerking  of  the  head  or  neck 
or  some  part  of  the  body.  When  the  trouble  is  with  the  muscles  of  the 
hind  legs  we  call  it  Stringhalt. 

Treatment  is  not  very  satisfactory.  Rest  and  attention  to  sanitary  con- 
ditions are  important,  with  plenty  of  fresh  air  and  rather  rich, 
fatty  food.  In  early  stages  a  dose  of  1  fluid  ounce  syrup  of  iodide  of  iron 
and  one-half  dram  of  powdered  nux  vpmica,  one  ounce  powdered  scutel- 
laria,  one  dram  powdered  anise  seed,  will  do  some  good,  given  in  the  food 
once  a  day  for  two  weeks.  Conkey's  Stock  Tonic  mixed  with  the  grain 
feed  is  helpful  as  it  eliminates  body  poisons  and  tones  the  general  functions. 
Stock  Tonic  will  not  cure  Chorea,  but  it  will  improve  the  condition  and 
give  nature  a  chance  to  effect  a  cure  if  cure  is  possible. 

COLIC  *Any  abdominal  pain  is  usually  called  Colic.  But  true  Colic  is  due 
to  trouble  somewhere  in  the  digestive  tract.  Such  trouble  is  com- 
mon in  horses  because  of  the  great  size  and  length  of  the  intestines.  With 
cattle,  digestive  troubles  come  almost  entirely  from  the  stomach;  but  with 
the  horse  the  exact  opposite  is  the  case.  The  stomach  of  the  horse  forms  a 
small  part  of  the  digestive  tract,  food  is  soon  out  of  it  but  remains  a  long 
time  in  the  intestines,  of  which  there  are  about  100  feet.  Probably  16  hours  is 
the  usual  time,  but  often  food  masses  remain ,for  days  so  that  poison  accumu- 
late and  with  heat  and  moisture  germs  develop  rapidly.  If  the  system  is 
kept  open,  as  with  Stock  Tonic  treatments,  the  food  masses  do  not  accumu- 
late; and  any  germs  taken  in  with  the  food  or  water  pass  out  of  the  body. 
If  the  bowels  are  kept  clear  there  is  really  little  danger  from  common 
digestive  troubles  or  from  germs  which  may  be  taken  in  along  with  the 
food.  Watering  the  horse  frequently  is  a  help  to  keep  the  system  open. 

Treatment  Must  be  prompt.  If  possible  put  the  horse  in  a  well-bedded 
box  stall,  but  give  immediately  a  dose  of  Conkey's  Colic 
Remedy  according  to  directions.  The  dose  is  small  and  can  be  given  even 
in  case  of  a  sudden  attack  on  the  road.  Then  following  directions  on 
package,  give  a  purge  to  clear  the  bowels.  Or,  with  the  hand  clean  out 
the  hard,  dry  fecal  matter  as  far  as  possible  and  make  an  injection  of  3  or  4 
quarts  of^  warm  water,  using  a  tablespoonful  of  Nox-i-cide  Dip  and  Disin- 
fectant. If  this  is  not  at  hand  use  soap  or  salt  in  the  warm ^ water;  ^inject 
with  a  hose  and  funnel.  Rub  the  belly  with  Conkey's  Warming  Liniment, 
then  blanket  the  horse.  Feed  lightly  for  24  hours.  Do  not  exercise  the 

*For  Enteritis  (Inflammation  of  the  Bowels),  see  page  93. 


90 CONKEY'S  STOCK  BOOK 

horse  until  all  symptoms  are  over.  Correct  the  mistakes  in  feeding  which 
caused  the  trouble  in  the  first  place,  and  keep  in  mind  that  colic  can  be 
prevented  largely  by  feeding  regularly  good  feed,  never  overfeeding,  and 
keeping  a  medicated  salt  before  the  animal,  such  as  common  barrel  salt  9 
parts  and  1  part  Conkey's  Stock  Tonic,  mixed  thoroughly  and  put  where 
the  horse  can  help  himself.  Also  do  not  overwork  your  horse,  or  expose 
him  to  sudden  changes,  or  water  heavily  when  he  is  tired  and  over-heated. 

COLIC — (Wind  or  Colic  attacks  vary,  so  keep  in  mind  the  following: 

Flatulent)  If  there  is  gas  from  fermentation  the  belly  will 

become  swollen,  the  pulse  rise,  and  the  animal  will 

show  great  weakness.  He  will  move  with  evident  pain  and  may  or  may  not 
lie  down.  The  expression  of  pain  will  be  more  constant  than  in  the  case  of 
spasmodic  colic. 

Treatment  Give  Conkey's  Colic  Remedy  to  relieve  the  condition.  If 
possible,  have  a  qualified  person  tap  the  horse  in  the  right 
side,  as  directed  under  Bloat  in  Cattle.  (In  the  case  of  the  horse,  the  right 
side,  not  the  left,  is  punctured.)  If  the  puncture  is  kept  open  with  the 
canula,  or  a  large  quill,  it  will  hardly  be  necessary  to  repeat  the  operation; 
but  if  called  upon  to  do  so  it  will  be  necessary  to  make  a  new  puncture. 
Clean  out  the  rectum  with  the  hand,  oiled  for  the  purpose,  then  inject  warm 
water  as  described  above.  For  quick  action  of  the  bowels  give  a  dose  of  8 
grams  of  barium  chloride  dissolved  in  a  little  water.  This  drug  will  act 
very  quickly  and  while  it  will  increase  the  pain  temporarily  it  will  not  so 
much  as  arecoline  or  eserine.  If  the  bowels  do  not  move  within  one  hour 
you  may  give  one  more  dose  of  8  grams  of  barium  chloride,  but  this  is 
seldom  necessary. 

COLIC  (Engorgement)      In  this  form  of  colic,  overloading  the  stomach,  the 

best  treatment  is  simply  to  get  a  veterinarian  to 

remove  the  fermenting  contents  with  a  stomach  pump  of  the  double-tube 
type.  Drugs  by  mouth  are  practically  useless.  Belching,  retching,  difficult 
breathing,  and  the  well-known  dog-sitting  position  are  common  symptoms 
of  Engorgement  or  Indigestion  Colic. 

COLLAR  BOIL        Badly  fitting  collars  cause  a  heap  of  trouble  ranging 
all  the  way  from  simple  bruises  to  serious  abscesses. 

If  simply  a  surface  sore,  dust  with  Conkey's  Healing  Powder  and  the  place 
will  heal  over  quickly.  If  an  abscess  is  formed,  containing  pus  or  serum, 
the  swelling  will  have  to  be  opened  and  this  matter  drained  off.  Treat  as 
directed  under  Abscess. 

CONDITION  Start  at  once  with  Conkey's  Stock  Tonic,  mixed  in  the 
RUN  DOWN  feed.  This  will  increase  the  appetite,  insure  full  digestion, 
tone  up  the  body  organs,  increase  circulation  and  if  there 
are  any  worms  in  the  stomach  or  intestines  it  will  cause  them  to  pass  out 
of  the  system.  Put  the  horse  on  good  feed;  and  see  that  he  has  good  general 
care,  with  plenty  of  fresh  air  in  the  stable  and  all  necessary  exercise  ^-''ve 
the  quarters  a  general  cleaning;  and  use  Nox-i-cide  Dip  and  Disinfectant 
in  the  cleaning  water,  or  spray  with  this  solution.  General  disinfecting 
of  the  premises  is  a  wise  precaution  whenever  an  animal  is  ailing,  as  the 
body  is  then  most  liable  to  infection. 

When  looking  around  for  the  cause  of  the  trouble,  do  not  forget  the 
teeth,  for  they  may  be  needing  attention. 

Stock  salt,  made  up  according  to  our  simple  directions  for  medicated 
salt,  namely:  Common  barrel  salt,  90  Ibs.,  Conkey's  Stock  Tonic,  10  ibs., 


DISEASES  OF  HORSES 91 

(two  $1  packages)  mixed  thoroughly  and  kept  in  a  dry  place,  where  the 
horses  can  help  themselves  will  prove  a  general  conditioner,  which  can  be 
safely  left  before  the  animals  all  the  time  as  there  is  no  danger  of  their 
overdosing  when  they  are  allowed  to  help  themselves.  This  is  a  general 
anti-parasite  mixture,  as  well  as  an  appetizer  and  tonic,  and  will  prevent 
worms,  etc.,  in  the  stomach  and  intestines.  If  there  are  external  parasites, 
such  as  lice,  get  rid  of  these  promptly  by  the  use  of  Nox-i-cide  Dip  and 
Disinfectant,  diluting  with  water  according  to  directions.  Apply  with  a 
stiff  brush,  beginning  at  the  head  and  rub  briskly.  If  weather  is  cool, 
blanket  the  animal,  so  as  to  avoid  any  danger  of  catching  cold  from  this 
treatment. 

CONSTIPATION  IN  This  is  usually  best  corrected  by  changing  from 
HORSES  dry  feed  to  roots,  grass  or  green  forage.  Be  sure 

to  give  the  horse  all  the  water  he  wants  to  drink. 

Conkey's  Stock  Tonic  twice  a  day  will  increase  the  intestinal  secretions 
and  keep  the  system  open.  The  regular  use  of  Conkey's  Stock  Salt  (see  page 
46)  would  prevent  this  common  trouble.  Regular  exercise  is  also  a  pre- 
ventative.  In  foals,  give  2  to  4  ounces  castor  oil,  or  a  soapsud  injection. 

CORNS  These  are  usually  found  in  the  inner  heels  of  the  fore  feet  as 
the  result  of  bruises,  often  from  pressure  of  the  shoe.  Usually 
the  horse  goes  lame.  If  the  corn  is  neglected  pus  may  form,  and  if  still 
neglected  may  even  make  its  way  out  around  the  coronet,  that  is,  top  of 
the  hoof,  when  the  case  becomes  "quittor."  It  is  wrong  to  keep  cutting 
corns  away,  until  the  hoof  bleeds  and  bleeds,  as  so  many  blacksmiths  do. 

Treatment  Pare  away  the  sole  a  little  and  put  a  few  drops  of  Conkey's 
Absorbent  on  the  corn,  which  will  give  immediate  relief. 
Have  the  shoer  lower  the  inside  quarter  to  relieve  the  heel,  and  the  corns 
will  not  come  back.  Of  course  if  the  corn  has  been  neglected  and  is 
suppurating,  it  will  be  necessary  to  give  a  free  vent  to  all  the  matter;  then 
insert  a  plug  of  oakum  soaked  in  Nox-i-cide  Dip  and  Disinfectant  solution, 
one-half  teaspoonful  to  a  cup  of  water.  Sometimes  it  is  necessary  to  put 
on  a  warm  bran  poultice;  which,  mix  with  a  little  hot  water,  adding  a  little 
Nox-i-cide,  say  a  half-teaspoonful,  to  bran  enough  to  fill  one  poultice  boot. 

CONGESTION  OF     This  is  most  liable  to  occur  in  the  spring  and  fall 

THE  LUNGS  months — sometimes  as  the  result  of  exertion  when 

not  in  condition,  or  too  sudden  cooling  off  after  hard 

exercise.  The  symptoms  are  fast  breathing — sometimes  a  short  hard  pain- 
ful cough;  the  horse  hangs  his  head  down,  eyes  are  wild  and  staring,  the 
legs  straddled.  Temperature  and  pulse  are  high. 

Treatment  Blanket  at  once  and  rub  Conkey's  Warming  Liniment  into  the 
sides  of  the  chest;  or  in  emergency  you  can  use  mustard  and 
water.  A  stimulant  is  needed  so  give  one-fourth  pint  of  whiskey  every  hour 
until  relief.  If  necessary  to  relieve  the  bowels  give  a  warm  soap-sud  injec- 
tion up  the  rectum,  using  an  ordinary  rubber  tube  and  funnel.  Put  the  horse 
on  light  diet,  adding  Conkey's  Stock  Tonic  according  to  directions.  Con- 
tinue the  Stock  Tonic  treatment  in  the  regular  feed  for  at  least  two  weeks. 

COUGH       See  that  the  feed  is  not  musty  or  dusty.     If  any  dust  arises 
from  the  hay,  sprinkle  it  before  feeding.     If  possible  put  the 
horse  on  grass  for  a  while.     Sometimes   the   symptom   is   traced   to  poor 
ventilation.     Often  it  is  due  to  neglected  colds  or  other  diseases. 


92 CONKEY'S  STOCK  BOOK 

Treatment      is  as  follows:    Give  Conkey's  Horse  Tonic  as  directed,  with 
feed,  and  three  times  a  day  give  a  cough  paste,  or  electuary 
made  up  as  follows: 

One  tablet  Conkey's  Distemper  Remedy,  ground  flaxseed  or  ground  elm 
bark  and  molasses  sufficient  to  make  up  a  paste  or  "soft  solid"  which  can 
be  smeared  on  the  gums,  tongue  or  teeth  with  a  wooden  spoon.  This 
will  be  taken  up  by  the  saliva  and  carried  down  the  throat  over  the  irri- 
tated membranes,  healing  and  easing  the  condition.  If  Conkey's  Distemper 
Remedy  is  not  at  hand,  ease  the  cough  by  rubbing  the  throat  with  Conkey's 
Warming  Liniment;  or  in  emergency  use  turpentine  or  mustard.  Be  sure 
to  keep  the  horse  warm,  but  have  plenty  of  ventilation.  Do  not  neglect  a 
cough,  for  it  may  run  into  heaves. 

CRACKED      This  condition  is  very  similar  to  Scratches;  which,  also  read. 
HEELS  It  is  common  in  the  spring  and  may  be  the  result  of  working 

in  sloppy  weather  or  in  cold  drafts,  freezing  mud,  etc.,  or  in 
slush  or  mud  after  a  thaw.  Unsanitary  stables  and  bad  conditions  for  the 
feet  may  cause  it;  although  certain  horses  are  constitutionally  more  liable 
to  it  than  are  others.  A  horse  that  stocks  badly  may  weaken  the  part,  and 
it  may  crack.  Overfeeding  of  grain,  or  unwholesome  fodder  may  also  cause 
it.  Treatment  is  the  same  as  for  Scratches,  page  109. 


CRIBBING  This  is  not  a  disease,  but  a  bad  habit,  a  "stable  vice,"  and 
while  strictly  incurable,  it  can  be  lessened  by  putting  the  cul- 
prit in  a  box  stall,  where  there  is  nothing  on  which  he  can  rest  teeth  or 
jaw.  Feed  from  a  shallow  box  with  oval  edges,  and  do  not  let  the  horse 
have  a  chance  at  any  sharp  corners.  It  is  a  good  idea  to  put  the  feed-box 
directly  on  the  floor;  as  a  horse  will  not  crib  on  anything  that  is  lower 
than  the  knees.  There  is  another  reason  for  putting  a  crib-biter  into  a  box 
stall;  namely,  to  get  him  away  from  the  rest  of  the  horses,  so  that  they 
will  not  learn  the  same  habit  by  imitation. 

CURB  This  is  a  swelling  on  the  back  of  the  hind  legs,  usually  about 
three  inches  below  the  point  of  the  hock,  caused  by  strain  of  the 
back  tendons  of  the  hock  joint,  the  result  of  slipping,  jumping,  backing,  etc. 
Horses  with  over-bent  or  "sickle-shaped"  hocks  are  most  liable  to  curb; 
hence  it  is  sometimes  called  hereditary.  The  swelling  at  the  back  of  the 
hock  is  hard,  and  at  first  there  is  lameness  but  usually  this  does  not  last 
longer  than  a  month. 

Treatment       In  the  early  stages  rub  the  curb  swelling  with   Pain   Lotion 
and  put  on  a  tight  bandage.     This  will  take  out  inflammation, 
and   often  will   entirely   cure   the   curb  in   a  week  or  ten   days.      In   other 
stages,  apply  Conkey's  Absorbent  as  directed  on  package. 

DIARRHEA  Looseness  of  the  bowels  is  nature's  way  of  trying  to  rid  the 
intestines  of  matter  harmful  to  the  body.  Diarrhea  is  more 
a  symptom  than  a  disease.  Usually  it  shows  imperfect  digestion,  tho  it 
may  be  caused  by  worms  or  by  purgative  medicines.  There  is  frequent 
discharge  of  semi-fluid  dung  and  sometimes  colicky  pains.  If  continued, 
the  animal  loses  flesh  and  appetite  and  shows  a  decided  tendency  to  "run 
down".  The  first  thing  to  do  is  to  decide  upon  the  cause,  which  may  be 


DISEASES  OF  HORSES 93 

watering  the  animal  when  heated,  or  feeding  musty  or  indigestible  food, 
or  a  sudden  change  from  dry  to  moist  feed,  bad  teeth,  which  cause  indi- 
gestion, or  exposure  to  drafts  when  overheated.  Correct  the  fault  and  put 
the  animal  on  light  feed.  Do  not  try  to  check  the  diarrhea  suddenly,  but 
give  a  purge  of  1^>  pints  raw  linseed  oil  (not  castor  oil)  to  clear  the  bowels, 
and  relieve  the  pain  by  rubbing  the  belly  with  Conkey's  Warming  Liniment, 
then  blanket  warmly. 

If  the  diarrhea  does  not  cease  after  the  oil  has  operated  give  wheaten 
or  arrow  root  gruels  warm,  or  white  oak  bark  tea  (1  ounce  to  pint  of 
water)  three  times  a  day.  Soon  as  the  bowel  discharges  lessen  put  the  ani- 
mal on  regular  treatment  with  Conkey's  Stock  Tonic  to  stimulate  and  tone 
up  the  system.  Feed  rather  lightly  and  keep  the  animal  quiet. 

(DYSENTERY)       Develops  from  neglected  diarrhea  or  from  tuberculosis 
of  the   intestines.     In   dysentery   blood   and  mucus   are 

mixed  with  the  discharge.  Give  dose  of  oil  and  follow  same  treatment  as 
above. 

(ENTERITIS)  is  inflammation  of  the  bowels  and  is  very  fatal,  especially 
where  there  is  diarrhea.  The  hoise  is  in  constant  pain, 
with  quickened  pulse  and  the  strength  is  very  much  affected,  all  marked 
differences  from  Colic.  The  belly  is  very  tender  and  should  not  be  rubbed, 
but  hot  applications  usually  benefit.  About  the  best  treatment  is  to 
quiet  the  sufferer  with  powdered  opium  2  drams,  calomel  Y?.  dram,  made 
into  a  ball,  and  repeated  in  two  hours  if  seems  necessary.  Physicing  will 
be  apt  to  cause  death.  Recovery  is  doubtful  in  any  case;  but  if  the  horse 
convalesces,  the  diet  must  be  watched  carefully.  Bran  mash  made  with  lin- 
seed tea  or  slippery  elm  bark  tea  is  recommended  by  some  veterinarians,  and 
in  general  boiled  food  should  be  given.  Water  in  small  quantities  but  often. 
An  exclusive  diet  of  skim  milk  for  a  week  or  so  is  urged  by  some  authori- 
ties. 

Above  suggestions  are  given  in  case  the  owner  cannot  get  hold  of  a 
qualified  veterinarian  and  must  treat  the  case  as  best  he  can.  Of  course, 
with  all  serious  ailments  we  advise  that  if  possible  a  veterinarian  be  called 
to  watch  the  case,  but  directions  here  given  are  all  made  as  definite  and 
practical  as  possible  as  in  many  instances  the  owner  must  do  the  best  he 
can  for  the  animal  himself.  Advice  is  given  with  the  assurance  that  it  is 
thoroughly  up-to-date  and  reliable  practice,  but  with  the  caution  that  special 
conditions  must  be  considered  in  each  case. 

DIGESTIVE  Wherever  there  is  digestive  disturbance,  use  Conkey's  Stock 
DISORDERS  Tonic  to  correct  the  disorder  and  also  for  tonic  treatment. 
As  a  general  preventative"  we  advise  occasional  use  of  Con- 
key's  Stock  Tonic  as  directed,  or  regular  use  of  the  special  formula  already 
recommended;  90  Ibs.  common  barrel  salt,  10  Ibs.  Conkey's  Stock  Tonic, 
mixed  thoroughly,  kept  dry.  This  makes  a  hundred  pound  mixture  at  a  cost 
not  to  exceed  $2.50  the  hundred.  For  efficiency  it  will  do  all  that  is  claimed 
for  any  medicated,  veterinary,  stock  salt,  at  a  cost  of  only  2^2  cents  a  pound, 
at  the  highest  estimate.  It  will  serve  as  an  appetizer  and  tonic,  and  have 
a  very  beneficial^  effect  on  the  general  condition  of  the  animal.  At  the  same 
time  it  is  what  is  called  an  anti-parasite  mixture,  and  will  keep  the  animal 
free  from  internal  parasites.  We  highly  recommend  this  mixture  (1)  for 
efficiency,  (2)  convenience  of  doctoring,  as  the  animals  have  access  to  it 
and  help  themselves,  just  as  they  need  it,  without  any  danger  of  overdosing, 
(3)  cheapness,  costing  less  than  2^  cents  a  pound,  (4)  lasting  qualities — the 
above  100  Ibs.  being  sufficient  for  25  head  of  live-stock  for  full  two 
months. 


94 CONKEY'S  STOCK  BOOK 

Acute  indigestion  requires,  as  the  first  active  treatment,  a  purge.  For 
horses,  use  raw  linseed  oil,  and  not  castor  oil;  as  castor  oil  is  now  under 
suspicion  of  modern  veterinarians  as  being  injurious  to  horses.  It  may  be 
used  safely  with  all  other  animals.  In  all  cases  see  if  the  teeth  need  atten- 
tion. 

DISINFECTING—      The  horse  is  the  most  sensitive  of  animals;  and  he  is 
DEODORIZING          especially  liable  to  infection  from  contaminated  sur- 
roundings.    A   horse   responds   very   quickly   to   any 

medical  treatment;  but  of  itself  has  comparatively  little  resistance  to  disease, 
whereas  most  animals  have  a  great  deal  of  resistance.  Prevention  is  the 
safe,  cheap  method;  and  to  disinfect  regularly  and  thoroughly  is  one  of 
the  surest  ways  of  keeping  free  from  disease.  Conkey's  Nox-i-cide  Dip  and 
Disinfectant,  which  mixes  with  water,  makes  a  highly  satisfactory  general 
disinfectant,  deodorizer  and  germ-killer,  cheap  enough  to  be  used  liberally. 
You  can  ward  off  many  threatening  diseases  if  you  attack  them  at  the  germ 
stage.  You  never  know  just  where  the  danger  may  be  lurking,  and  the 
only  safe  way  is  to  disinfect  thoroughly  and  frequently,  going  over  walls, 
floors,  etc.,  as  elsewhere  described.  A  good  way  to  use  Conkey's  Nox-i-cide 
Dip  and  Disinfectant  is  right  in  the  scrub  pail  or  wash  water.  A  half  cupful 
to  the  pail  makes  cheap  disinfectant  solution.  Nox-i-cide  Dip  and  Disinfect- 
ant is  handy  for  many  emergencies.  In  case  of  cuts,  wounds,  etc.,  you 
must  treat  with  an  antiseptic  first,  and  often  with  this  attention  the  trouble 
will  right  itself  without  further  treatment.  Keep  Conkey's  Nox-i-cide  Dip 
and  Disinfectant  ready  for  use,  and  use  it.  You  don't  have  to  be  too  careful, 
since  it  mixes  with  water  and  is  cheap.  Every  drop  of  it  is  effective.  Get 
Nox-i-cide  Dip  and  Disinfectant  and  keep  it  handy,  ready  for  instant  use. 
Point  it  out  to  the  new  stableman,  so  he  will  know  just  where  to  find  it. 

DISLOCATION        After  the  bones  have  been  replaced,  apply  freely  Con- 
key's    Pain   Lotion.     This  will   ease   the   suffering  and 
take  out  any  inflammation. 

DISTEMPER         See  Influenza,  Pink  Eye,  Distemper  or  Strangles. 

ECZEMA —  Thorough  grooming  and  cleansing  of  the  skin  is  one 

SADDLE  MANGE      of    the    best   precautions    against    these    disorders    of 

the     skin.       Common     soap     sometimes     causes     the 

trouble.  Exposure  to  constant  rain  is  another  cause.  The  use  of  Conkey's 
Pino  in  the  grooming  will  often  be  the  only  treatment  necessary,  as  it  is 
an  antiseptic  and  stimulating  application.  See  directions  for  mixing  with 
water.  In  the  scabby,  scaly  form  the  parts  should  be  well  soaked  over 
night  in  olive  oil  or  Conkey's  Pain  Lotion,  then  washed  with  pure  soap  and 
water.  Use  same  treatment  for  the  suppurating  forms  of  this  disease, 
usually  seen  about  the  mane  and  tail.  With  these  the  hair  should  be  clipped 
first,  so  as  to  get  direct  application.  Any  sores  or  chafed  surfaces  on  the 
body  will  quickly  heal  over  when  dusted  with  Conkey's  Healing  Powder. 
Healing  Powder  should  always  be  used  under  saddles,  collars,  etc.,  to  pre- 
vent galling  and  chafing. 

EYES  Inflammation  and  temporary  disorders  of  the  eye  should  be 
treated  with  Conkey's  Eye  Remedy  sprayed  or  annointed  by 
means  of  a  clean  feather,  a  camel's  hair  brush  or  piece  of  sterile  cotton. 
Exclude  light  from  the  eyes  as  far  as  possible  during  the  attack,  if  necessary 
hanging  a  dark  cloth  over  the  head.  Sometimes  there  are  parasites  in  the 
eye  (Filaria  Papillosa)  which  show  as  floating  threads  in  the  aqueous  humor 
of  the  anterior  chamber  of  the  eye,  which  can  be  removed  by  a  surgical 


DISEASES  OF  HORSES ; 95 

operation.  Cataract  or  general  cloudiness  or  specking  of  the  lens  can  be 
relieved  by  removal  of  the  lens;  but  as  this  leaves  imperfect  vision,  the 
operation  is  hardly  worth  while. 

Where  the  attacks  are  periodic  with  symptoms  of  inflammation,  tearing, 
and  a  cloudy  or  pearly  color  of  the  eyes  with  extreme  sensitiveness  to 
light,  the  disease  is  moon-blindness;  and  is  incurable  after  six  to  eight 
attacks.  General  treatment  as  already  given  under  moon-blindness  will 
lessen  the  frequency  of  the  attacks,  and  postpone  the  bad  day  of  incurable 
blindness.  Follow  directions  carefully. 

EXOSTOSIS  Any   bony   bunch   or   outgrowth   from   the   bone    should   be 
treated    with    Conkey's    Absorbent,    applied    as    directed    for 
Spavin,  Ringbone,  Sidebone,  Splint,  etc. 

FEET  Watch  the  feet  all  the  time;  for  small  causes  lead  to  serious  trouble 
with  Contracted  feet.  Thrush  in  clefts  of  the  feet,  Corns,  Quittor, 
Sandcrack,  Canker,  Speedycut,  Split  Hoof,  etc.  Dressing  with  Conkey's 
Hoof  Remedy  will  keep  the  feet  from  drying  out  unduly,  as  they  are  liable 
to  do  when  horses  are  worked  on  hard,  dry  roads  or  stand  on  hard  floors  in 
stables.  Watch  the  growth  of  horn,  for  uneven  growth  of  the  hoof  brings 
about  a  change  in  balance — causing  change  of  action,  so  that  very  serious 
troubles  such  as  splint,  spavin,  curb,  etc.,  are  liable  to  follow.  Many 
injuries  to  the  foot  are  preventable,  and  whether  preventable  or  not,  are 
simplified  when  given  immediate  treatment,  as  in  the  case  of  corns,  punc- 
ture, nail  wrongly  driven  in  the  hoof,  etc.  Unsanitary  conditions  under-foot 
are  a  prime  cause  of  disease.  Clean  up  regularly  and  disinfect  with 
Nox-i-cide  Dip  and  Disinfectant,  or  any  reliable  disinfectant.  Such  diseases 
as  Thrush,  Canker,  etc.,  are  usually  the  result  of  neglect  of  sanitary  condi- 
tion. Keep  the  filth  out  of  the  stall,  and  see  that  the  floor  properly  drains. 
Keep  the  feet  clean,  then  with  a  brush  apply  Conkey's  Hoof  Remedy  regu- 
larly. Put  some  on  the  coronary  band  as  well  as  on  the  hoof  proper;  and 
if  the  foot  needs  a  pack  stuff  with  bran  and  Conkey's  Hoof  Remedy,  which 
makes  the  best  possible  hoof  packing.  Or,  you  can  use  Nox-i-cide  with 
bran,  which  also  makes  an  antiseptic  dressing. 

FEVER  Where  the  temperature  rises  above  normal,  as  the  result  of 
some  exposure,  or  some  fault  of  digestion  or  derangement  of 
bowels  or  bladder,  so  that  the  system  poisons  are  absorbed  instead  of  passing 
from  the  body,  the  best  treatment  is  rest,  careful  diet,  and  for  medicine, 
Conkey's  Distemper  and  Fever  Remedy  in  doses  as  directed.  Keep  the 
animal  in  a  comfortable  stall,  if  possible  a  box  stall,  with  the  temperature 
as  near  60  or  65  degrees  Fahrenheit  as  possible — free  from  draughts  but 
with  plenty  of  fresh  air  for  breathing.  He  will  not  have  much  appetite, 
but  make  the  ration  as  attractive  as  possible,  giving  such  food  as  grass,  bran 
mash,  carrots,  etc.  Give  the  horse  plenty  of  fresh  pure  water  of  an  agree- 
able temperature.  Conkey's  Stock  Tonic  in  the  feed  will  increase  appetite 
and  also  tone  up  the  body  functions. 

FISTULA  A  fistula  is  a  swelling  containing  tube-like  channels  through 
which  the  pus  or  matter  discharges.  Usually  they  are  located 
on  the  neck  and  withers.  Fistula  of  the  foot  is  called  Quittor,  which  see. 
Fistula  is  generally  due  to  a  bruise  or  other  injury  of  the  withers  from  a 
blow,  pressure  of  the  harness  or  catching  the  neck  on  a  beam,  bruising  the 
ligaments  and  sometimes  the  bony  structure,  as  at  the  withers.  The  promi- 
nence of  the  withers  makes  them  liable  to  accident  of  this  sort.  There  is 
inflammation  of  the  bursae  or  lubricating  sacs,  as  in  Bursitis.  A  painful,  soft 
swelling  develops  on  one  or  both  sides  of  the  withers,  filled  with  blood- 


96 CONKEY'S  STOCK  BOOK 

V 

tinged  watery  fluid,  not  like  the  pus  of  an  ordinary  abscess.  If  the  matter 
burrows,  it  may  result  in  disease  of  the  shoulder  blade  or  the  cartilage  or 
spines  of  the  vertebrae.  The  danger  from  fistula  is  increased  the  deeper 
it  goes,  just  as  in  Poll  Evil.  For  successful  treatment  the  fistula  must  be 
"bottomed,"  that  is,  probed  to  the  bottom,  and  thoroughly  drained,  as  in 
the  case  of  any  deep  abscess. 

Treatment      Hot  or  cold  water  fomentations  will  help  the  condition,  but 
as  soon  as  possible  get  Conkey's  Poll  Evil  Remedy  and  use 
as  directed  on  package.     If  taken  at  an  early  stage,  simple  treatment  with 
Conkey's  Pain  Lotion  will  often  effect  a  cure. 

FLIES  Protection  from  flies  is  not  only  humane,  but  practical  sense  in 
caring  for  your  valuable  property.  A  horse  tormented  by  flies 
loses  flesh,  chafes  and  spoils  in  spirit,  wears  out  his  shoes  by  stamping, 
kicks  and  stamps  out  floors,  and  sometimes  cracks  a  hoof.  In  addition, 
the  flies  lay  eggs  on  the  horse's  body,  whence  they  are  licked  off  and  find 
lodgment  in  the  animal's  stomach  and  so  we  find  the  common  ailment 
called  "bots  in  the  stomach,"  which  sometimes  cause  serious  digestive 
trouble.  Prevention  of  these  various  evils  is  easy  with  the  use  of  Conkey's 
Fly  Knocker,  which  if  sprayed  frequently  on  the  animal  will  keep  the  flies 
from  alighting,  or  it  can  be  used  to  kill  the  grub  already  deposited  on  the 
body.  Sprayed  on  walls,  it  helps  to  keep  flies  out  of  the  stable.  Sprayed 
on  manure  heaps,  it  kills  the  -pests  at  their  breeding  place,  and  so  settles 
the  fly  problem  for  a  whole  neighborhood,  and  promotes  not  only  the 
comfort  but  the  health  of  the  neighborhood,  as  flies  are  known  to  be  the 
carriers  of  typhoid  and  many  other  germ  diseases. 

FOUNDER —  This  is  severe  inflammation  of  the  sensitive  parts  of  the 
LAMINITIS  foot,  the  Laminae,  or  leaf-like  structures  which  surround 
the  end  and  sides  of  the  coffin-bone  and  are  enclosed  within 
the  horny  hoof.  When  these  sensitive  laminae  are  congested  they  press 
upon  the  hard  walls  of  the  hoof  and  the  pain  is  intense;  and  especially 
when  the  horse  is  made  to  move  or  stand.  Horses  with  flat  feet,  weak 
heels  or  those  suffering  from  any  lameness  are  most  liable  to  this  sudden 
inflammation  of  the  feet,  which  may  be  brought  on  by  any  one  of  a  variety 
of  causes,  such  as  sudden  cooling  off,  drinking  too  much  cold  water,  over- 
eating, especially  eating  new  wheat  and  barley,  new  pats  and  new  hay, 
when  already  in  overfat  condition;  overdriving,  bad  shoeing  or  any  constant 
strain  on  the  feet  may  cause  founder. 

Symptoms  Attacks  are  sudden;  the  horse  seems  afraid  to  put  any  weight 
on  the  feet  affected.  In  a  bad  attack  it  is  hard  to  get  the 
horse  to  move  at  all.  There  is  fever  and  a  quick,  full  strong  pulse,  excited 
breathing  and  distended  nostrils.  The  hoofs  are  hot  to  the  touch,  and  if 
tapped  with  a  hammer  the  animal  groans  with  pain. 

Treatment  The  advice  sometimes  given  to  "run  the  horses  hard"  seems 
to  us  unwarranted  and  cruel.  Get  the  horse  off  his  feet,  which 
will  relieve  the  pain  considerably,  then  as  quickly  and  gently  as  possible 
take  off  the  shoes  and  foment  the  feet  for  one  half  hour  with  hot  water 
applications,  changing  then  to  cold  applications  and  continuing  this  treat- 
ment for  several  hours.  Then  apply  Conkey's  Pain  Lotion  liberally,  and 
poultice,  using  a  bandage  or  a  poultice  boot.  Meanwhile  give  Conkey's 
Distemper  and  Fever  Remedy  for  internal  treatment,  as  directed  on  pack- 
ages. Blanketing  the  animal  will  benefit  by  inducing  perspiration. 


DISEASES  OF  HORSES 97 

If  in  two  days  the  condition  is  not  improved,  that  is,  if  fever  and  sore- 
ness seem  to  be  increasing,  the  sole  of  the  foot  should  be  thinned  and  an 
opening  made  to  let  out  any  pus,  then  dress  with  Pain  Lotion  and  replace 
the  bandage  or  poultice.  After  the  inflammation  is  all  out,  say  in  ten  days 
or  two  weeks,  apply  Conkey's  Absorbent  to  the  pastern.  This  will  stimu- 
late activity  and  prevent  the  wasting  away  of  the  soft  structures,  and  thus 
avoid  danger  of  contraction  of  the  feet,  as  in  Chronic  Founder.  Also  use 
Conkey's  Hoof  Remedy  regularly  to  keep  the  hoof  in  healthy  condition  and 
prevent  the  unsightly  deformities  so  often  exhibited  as  the  after  results 
of  Founder. 

GALLS  Saddle  and  Collar  Galls  are  most  common,  but  galls  may  come 
wherever  there  is  chafing  from  dirty  or  badly  fitting  harness. 
Sometimes  defective  conformation  causes  them,  and  this  requires  that  the 
saddle  or  collar  be  altered  to  fit  the  animal  for  which  it  is  wanted.  Some- 
times this  means  only  a  little  change  in  the  padding;  but  even  if  necessary 
to  re-make  the  saddle  or  collar  this  should  be  carefully  attended  to  in  order 
to  insure  the  full  usefulness  of  the  animal.  After  the  sore,  chafed  spot  is 
once  formed  it  is  easily  liable  to  infection,  so  that  dirty,  neglected  harness 
often  leads  to  serious  trouble.  Trouble  usually  starts  with  a  puffy  swelling; 
then  the  hair  comes  out,  finally  there  is  an  open  sore. 

Treatment  is  very  simple.  Conkey's  Healing  Powder  sprinkled  on  the  surface 
twice  a  day  will  speedily  cure  even  a  bad  case,  for  it  works 
rapidly.  If  the  sore  has  been  neglected  a  long  time  or  other  treatment 
has  failed  to  heal  it,  so  that  it  has  worked  deeper,  it  should  first  be  dressed 
with  Conkey's  Pain  Lotion,  which  will  keep  the  tissues  soft,  while  healing. 
Results  are  not  so  quick  as  with  the  Healing  Powder,  but  in  the  case  of  a 
deep  sore  it  is  of  course  not  safe  to  heal  too  quickly  from  the  outside, 
but  to  give  the  inner  affected  tissue  plenty  of  time  to  heal  from  the  bottom 
up  before  closing  the  surface. 

Prevention  consists  in  fitting  the  collar  or  saddle  to  the  horse  that  wears 
it,  dusting  the  skin  with  Conkey's  Healing  Powder  wherever 
there  is  liability  of  chafing,  cleaning  all  dirt  from  collars,  etc.,  and  wiping 
with  a  damp  cloth  and  a  few  drops  of  Conkey's  Nox-i-cide  Dip  and  Disin- 
fectant, which  will  keep  the  harness  soft  and  free  from  the  hard  dirt  ridges, 
so  apt  to  cause  chafing  and  pretty  sure  to  be  the  source  of  germ  infection. 

GLANDERS  These  incurable  diseases  are  invariably  due  to  contagion 
AND  FARCY  from  other  affected  animals,  and  are  in  fact  so  highly  infec- 
tious that  it  is  not  lawful  to  treat  any  animal  suffering  with 
Glanders  or  Farcy,  the  law  requiring  that  the  horse  be  destroyed  as  soon 
as  proof  of  the  disease  is  established  by  re-action  to  the  test  with  mallein. 
The  general  symptoms  are  hard  swelling  of  the  glands  under  the  jaw, 
which  appear  to  be  fixed  to  the  side  of  the  jaw.  There  is  no  discharge  from 
the  swelling  but  there  is  a  discharge  from  the  nostril,  (usually  the  left 
nostril)  the  result  of  an  ulcerous  condition  of  the  lining  membrane  of  the 
nasal  passage.  This  discharge  should  not  be  confused  with  that  in  simple 
catarrh,  strangles,  or  influenza,  these  latter  being  more  constant.  The 
discharge  has  no  odor,  is  glutinous,  and  in  acute  stages  is  straw  color.  When 
pustular  eruptions  appear  on  the  skin  the  disease  is  called  Farcy.  In  acute 
stages  of  Farcy  the  glands  of  the  leg  ulcerate,  and  the  limb  suddenly  swells 
up  to  enormous  proportions.  Glanders  and  Farcy  are  really  the  same  dis- 
ease, Glanders  affecting  especially  the  membrane  of  the  nose  and  air- 
passages  of  the  horse,  while  in  Farcy  the  nodules  (Farcy  Buds)  are  on 
the  surface. 


CONKEY'S  STOCK  BOOK 


Treatment  is  not  warrantable,  although  iodine  is  undoubtedly  helpful. 
Where  Glanders  is  suspected  from  discharges  that  would 
indicate  internal  lesions,  or  where  the  condition  is  shown  by  external 
lesion's,  as  in  the  case  of  Farcy,  the  law  requires  the  mallein  test,  and  if 
there  is  temperature  re-action  to  the  injection  of  mallein,  the  animal  must 
be  destroyed,  its  carcass  and  all  woodwork  in  contact  with  the  discharges 
must  be  burned,  and  the  whole  quarters  thoroughly  disinfected.  Nothing 
is  better  for  the  purpose  than  a  thorough  washing  of  the  infected  quarters 
with  a  strong  solution  of  Nox-i-cide  Dip  and  Disinfectant. 

If  healthy  animals  are  exposed,  they  must  be  injected  under  the  skin 
with  mallein,  which  serves  as  a  protection. 

GREASE  HEEL       This  disease  is  very  troublesome.     It  has  some  similar- 
ity to  Scratches,  being  an  inflammation  of  the  skin  of 

the  heel,  from  exposure  to  cold  and  wet,  or  standing  in  liquid  manure,  or  it 
may  be  from  general  neglect  and  wrong  treatment  of  an  eczema  condition 
of  the  skin.  The  condition  shows  as  inflammation  in  patches,  the  skin 
affected  has  a  moist,  greasy  feel;  sometimes  there  is  an  ulcerated  condition 
with  more  or  less  foul  discharge.  In  addition  to  this  inflammation  of  the 
heel  there  may  be  a  swelling  of  the  leg,  resulting  in  scabby  sores. 

Treatment,  paint  with  Conkey's  Nox-i-cide  Dip  and  Disinfectant,  full 
,~t^-  sStrength,. -several  times,  then  bathe  carefully  with  a  solution 
x>f,  tjji£  same,  using  ,2;teaspoonfuls  in  one  pint  of  water.  This  will  usually 
c.ure  quickly,  but  if  the  condition  does  not  improve  rapidly,  dust  on  a  little 
ok  Cprikey's;  Healing.  Powder.  For  internal  treatment  put  the  horse  on 
tGptnJcey's  -;$to'ck  Tonic,  mixed  with  the  regular  feed.  Animals  in  good 
bipod  are  not,  liable  to  this  disease;  and  we  advise,  as  general  preventive 
measure,  the  use  of  the  special  veterinary  salt  mixture  elsewhere  recom- 
mended as  a  general  conditioner;  namely,  9  parts  common  barrel  salt,  1 
part  Conkey's  Stock  Tonic,  mixed  thoroughly  and  kept  in  a  dry  place,  where 
the  horse  can  help  himself  as  needed.  Used  in  this  way,  there  is  no  danger 
of  the  animal  overdosing;  he  will  take  it  as  needed,  and  by  doctoring  him- 
self, save  many  threatened  disorders. 

HALTER  This  stable  vice  can  be  cured  as  follows:  put  an  old  saddle 
PULLING  on  the  horse;  then  take  about  twelve  feet  of  half-inch  rope, 
pass  this  around  the  rump  under  the  tail,  bring  the  ends 
forward  through  the  line  rings  of  the  saddle  and  then  through  the  ring  of 
the  halter  under  the  chin  and  tie  the  ends  of  the  rope  as  a  halter  strap 
would  be  tied. 

HARD  HOOF        Hard  or  drying  hoofs  can  be  easily  prevented  by  regular 
use  of  Conkey's  Hoof  Remedy,  used  according  to  simple 
directions  on  package. 

HARNESS  AND  Conkey's  Healing  Powder  prevents  and  cures.  Read 
COLLAR  GALLS  treatment  under  Galls. 

HEAVES  This  common  and  troublesome  disease  is  easily  known  by  the 
quick,  labored  breathing,  sharp,  short  cough,  and  the  catch  in 
"the  flank  with  each  expulsion  of  the  air  in  breathing.  In  its  first  stages 
the  "heaving"  and  coughing  are  merely  nervous  symptoms,  and  the  real 
trouble  is  with  the  digestion.  When  a  horse  develops  "heaves"  usually  the 
feeding  system  is  at  fault.  Feeding  clover  hay,  feeding  inferior  or  musty 
or  damaged  hay,  or  too  much  roughage  (that  is,  too  much  bulky,  innutri- 
tious  feed),  any  of  these  are  liable  to  cause  Heaves.  Feed  more  grain  and 
less  hay  if  your  horse  inclines  to  Heaves.  Other  probable  causes  are  bad 


DISEASES   OF  HORSES 99 

ventilation  of  the  stable  or  a  musty  atmosphere.  It  is  sometimes  called 
hereditary  because  a  round-chested  horse  is  inclined  to  Heaves;  and  if  a 
round  chest  is  inherited,  susceptibility  to  this  disorder  is  also  "inherited." 
It  is  said  that  change  from  a  high  level  to  a  low  level  will  bring  on  the 
disease  in  some  horses. 

Treatment  This  has  long  been  considered  a  difficult  disorder  to  treat 
successfully.  Usually  the  difficulty  in  treating  is  due  to  the 
fact  that  the  horse  is  simply  medicated  for  the  Heaves,  and  nothing  is  done 
to  remedy  the  condition  which  caused  the  trouble  in  the  first  place,  such  as 
wrong  feeding,  or  bad  or  dusty  air.  There  is  no  use  to  treat  symptoms  and 
absolutely  neglect  the  cause.  Remove  the  cause,  then  treat  with  Conkey's 
Heave  Relief  according  to  plain  directions  on  package.  We  guarantee 
satisfaction.  It  is  a  waste  of  time  to  treat  a  horse  with  heaves  unless  you 
follow  the  below  feeding  directions.  Conkey's  Heave  Relief  does  not 
contain  any  cheap  liquid  or  filler  but  is  all  pure  drug  prescription.  The 
treatment  is  scientific,  and  goes  at  once  to  the  seat  of  the  trouble,  toning 
the  weakened  organs. 

In  a  case  of  long  standing  where  the  horse  is  run  down,  use  Conkey's 
Stock  Tonic  to  build  up  the  general  condition.  This  is  tonic,  alterative 
treatment,  which  cures  indigestion,  gets  the  full  value  out  of  feed,  increases 
the  appetite,  expels  worms,  and  rids  the  body  of  the  systemic  poisons  which 
accumulate  so  rapidly  when  there  is  any  fault  with  the  breathing. 

In  feeding  a  horse  with  heaves  follow  these  general  rules:  Feed  the 
best  quality,  but  in  the  smallest  quantity,  so  as  to  give  the  digestion  as  little 
as  possible  to  do.  Always  water  before  feeding,  or  the  undigested  food 
will  be  washed  out  of  the  stomach.  Do  not  exercise  the  horse  too  soon 
after  feeding.  Limit  the  horse  to  a  small  quantity  of  best  hay  once  a 
day;  and  for  other  feed  give  carrots,  potatoes,  turnips,  chopped  and  mixed 
corn  or  oats.  Dark  molasses  can  be  used  with  this  to  great  advantage. 

Prevention  Heaves  usually  affects  unthrifty,  run-dov/n  animals;  and  can 
thus  be  prevented  by  occasional  treatment  with  Conkey's  Stock 
Tonic,  mixed  with  the  regular  feed  as  directed.  Or,  we  suggest  permanent 
use  of  the  special  veterinary  salt  described  before  for  general  preventive 
treatment,  using  1  part  Conkey's  Stock  Tonic  to  9  parts  common  barrel  salt, 
mixing  thoroughly  and  keeping  it  where  the  horse  can  help  himself  just 
as  he  wants  it.  There  will  be  no  danger  from  overdosing,  but  the  horse 
will  doctor  himself  as  he  needs  it.  This  will  insure  general  thriving  condi- 
tion. This  formula  makes  a  most  efficient  stock  salt,  absolutely  effective  as 
a  conditioner  and  at  the  low  cost  of  less  than  2^  cents  a  pound.  One 
pound  will  usually  last  a  horse  about  two  weeks. 

HIDE  We  say  a  horse  is  hidebound  when  the  skin  is  harsh  and  "tight" 

BOUND  and  the  coat  staring.  The  condition  shows  poor  nutrition.  The 
horse  may  be  eating  well  but  the  food  is  not  properly  digested. 
Lack  of  air  or  of  salt  sometimes  cause  this  "hide-bound"  condition.  Con- 
key's  Stock  Tonic  in  the  feed  three  times  a  day  is  the  best  treatment.  As  the 
appetite  improves  increase  the  feed.  Groom  well  and  look  to  general  sani- 
tary conditions.  When  the  animal  shows  good  normal  condition,  you  can 
drop  the  Stock  Tonic  treatment  in  the  feed,  but  we  advise  regular  use  of  the 
veterinary  salt  mixture  already  alluded  to,  as  follows:  90  Ibs.  common  barrel 
salt,  10  Ibs.  Conkey's  Stock  Tonic,  mixed  thoroughly  and  kept  in  a  dry  place, 
where  the  horse  can  help  himself  as  needed.  There  is  no  danger  of  the 
horse  overdosing  when  allowed  to  get  at  this  just  when  he  wants  it.  This 
stock  salt  is  effective  as  a  general  preventive.  It  is  very  cheap,  costing 
when  thus  home  mixed,  less  than  2^2  cents  a  pound,  1  pound  being  sufficient 
for  each  animal  for  two  weeks. 


100 CONKEY'S   STOCK  BOOK 

INDIGESTION        Sometimes  the  trouble  is  with  the  teeth,  which  do  not 
perform  the  first  process  in  digestion.     It  may  be  the 

horse  is  a  "bolter"  and  swallows  his  feed  without  proper  chewing.  Worms 
are  another  common  cause  of  symptoms  of  indigestion.  The  food  may  be 
digested  perfectly"  but  the  worms  absorb  most  of  it  and  the  horse  gets 
little  benefit.  The  symptoms  vary  and  according  to  the  symptoms  we  call 
the  disease  anaemia  (poor  blood),  colic,  diarrhea,  dysentery,  gastritis,  heaves, 
hide-bound,  thin  flesh,  etc. 

Treatment  calls  first  for  a  purgative,  mild  or  brisk,  as  the  case  may 
require;  then  tonic,  alterative  treatment  with  Conkey's  Stock 
Tonic  mixed  with  the  regular  feed  as  directed.  Treat  any  condition  showing 
rough,  dry,  unthrifty  coat,  dejected  appearance,  grain  passed  whole,  etc., 
with  Conkey's  Stock  Tonic.  As  preventative  treatment  give  all  animals  a 
course  of  Stock  Tonic  occasionally;  or  use  continually  the  special  mixture 
already  suggested  as  follows:  90  Ibs.  common  barrel  salt,  10  Ibs.  Conkey's 
Stock  Tonic,  mix  thoroughly  and  place  in  a  dry  place,  where  each  animal 
can  help  itself.  There  will  then  be  no  danger  of  any  animal  taking  an 
overdose;  but  each  will  help  itself  as  needed.  This  is  a  prime  conditioner 
and  one  convenient  to  use,  as  each  animal  doctors  itself.  It  can  be  cheaply 
mixed  at  home  according  to  above  directions.  We  guarantee  full  satisfac- 
tion with  this  formula.  Try  it  and  compare  results  with  any  commercial 
salt  now  sold  for  five  to  ten  times  the  price.  This  treatment  will  cost 
only  a  cent  a  week  for  each  head  of  live-stock,  as  a  pound  of  the  conditioner 
will  easily  last  a  horse  or  cow  two  weeks. 

INFLAMMATION      Inflammation  of  any  sort  is  best  treated  with  Conkey's 
Pain     Lotion,    applied    liberally    as    directed.      This 

remedy  can  be  used  externally,  as  a  dressing  or  simply  rubbed  in,  or  can 
be  sprayed  into  the  mouth,  or  injected  into  a  deep  cut  or  wound.  It  is 
absolutely  safe  to  use. 

INFLUENZA — PINK  Diseases  of  this  nature  seem  to  depend  on  at- 
EYE — DISTEMPER  mospheric  influences  and  may  come  from  any 

OR  STRANGLES  sudden    check    to    the 

function  of  the  skin  or 

kidneys,  as  from  chill,  etc.  Spring  and  fall 
changes  in  the  weather  usually  bring  these 
troubles;  and  one  animal  may  infect  another. 
Young  animals  seem  most  liable  to  suffer.  One 
attack  is  said  to  make  the  subject  immune;  that 
is  many  claim  if  an  animal  has  had  the  disease 
once,  he  will  not  get  it  again.  It  is  at  least  true 
that  the  animal  once  attacked  is  unlikely  to  have  Strangles 

it  again. 

Symptoms       Temperature  is  high  and  there  is  a  hard,  painful  swelling  under 
the  jaws,  between  the  branches  of  the  jaw-bone.    The  breathing 
is  much  obstructed.     This  swelling  is  really  an  abscess;  and  as  it  softens, 
pus  will  break  out,  or  it  may  require  lancing. 

Treatment  Keep  the  animal  well  bedded  with  clean,  dry  straw;  and  keep 
the  box-stall  comfortably  warm,  free  from  drafts,  but  with 
plenty  of  ventilation.  The  quarters  should  be  kept  in  a  sanitary  condition 
by  the  use  of  a  liberal  supply  of  Nox-i-cide  solution  (one-half  pint  Conkey's 
Nox-i-cide  Dip  and  Disinfectant  to  each  gallon  of  water)  to  prevent  con- 
tagion. Do  not  "quick  purge,"  but  feed  soft  laxative  foods  such  as  gruels, 
mashes,  steamed  oats,  grass,  roots,  especially  boiled  carrots;  also  cold 


DISEASES   OF   HORSES ^_ 101 

milk  and  linseed  tea.  Molasses  in  the  mash  will  be  helpful.  The  animal 
will  have  little  appetite,  and  should  be  tempted.  Give  plenty  of  cool  water 
for  drinking,  to  which  add  night  and  morning  one-fourth  ounce  of  potassium 
chlorate.  Three  times  a  day  give  one-half  dram  quinine  sulphate  and  one 
tablet  Conkey's  Distemper  Remedy,  thrown  back  in  the  throat  or  crushed  in 
a  little  water  and  put  on  the  back  of  the  tongue  with  a  long-handled  spoon. 

Good  nursing  is  as  important  as  good  medical  treatment,  and  especially 
is  this  true  with  distemper  or  strangles.  The  foregoing  directions  should 
be  followed  with  care  and  regularity.  In  special  cases,  where  there  is  much 
prostration,  give  Conkey's  Horse  Tonic  as  directed  on  package,  and  if  the 
horse  does  not  eat  naturally,  give  him  stimulants  combining  nutrients,  every 
two  hours;  for  instance,  six  ounces  of  brandy  stirred  up  with  eggs  and 
milk.  Fumigate  the  stable  with  Nox-i-cide  solution  and  give  the  patient  in- 
halations, using  the  nose  bag  or  a  bucket  of  steaming  hot  water  with  a 
teaspoonful  of  Conkey's  Pain  Lotion  to  a  quart  of  hot  water. 

ITCH  Proper  use  of  Conkey's  Nox-i-cide  Dip  and  Disinfectant  in  the 
cleaning  water  will  prevent  itch,  whether  due  to  mange  mites, 
follicular  mange,  (due  to  a  vegetable  parasite)  lice,  nervous  eczema,  or 
other  causes.  Nox-i-cide  Dip  and  Disinfectant  allays  irritation,  soothes, 
heals  and  is  thoroughly  antiseptic.  In  treating  itch  of  any  sort,  it  is  always 
wise  to  treat  the  general  condition  as  well  as  to  treat  locally.  Build  up  the 
body  functions,  clean  the  blood,  tone  and  invigorate  the  animal.  You  can 
do  this  with  Conkey's  Stock  Tonic,  used  as  directed.  Never  neglect  a  case 
of  itch;  for  it  will  invariably  bring  a  horse  down  to  poor,  unthriving  condi- 
tion. Where  the  itching  is  intense  and  immediate  relief  is  necessary,  apply 
Conkey's  Pain  Lotion. 

LAMENESS  Many  and  various  kinds  of  lameness  afflict  the  horse,  due 
to  faulty  conformation  or  to  accidents  or  neglect.  Some- 
times the  seat  of  the  trouble  is  hard  to  locate  and  we  call  the  case  "mysteri- 
ous lameness."  The  veterinarian  must  find  the  cause,  or  the  treatment  is 
guess  work.  A  great  many  cases  of  lameness  are  due  to  poor  blacksmithing 
— it  always  pays  to  patronize  a  good  horse-shoer.  Lameness  is  most  serious 
in  the  hind  feet.  Lameness  behind  can  be  told  by  a  dropping  of  the  head 
when  the  lame  leg  comes  to  the  ground,  whereas  in  the  case  of  a  forefoot, 
the  horse  lifts  the  head.  Clean  regularly  to  keep  the  foot  sanitary,  exercise 
regularly  to  keep  the  hoof  level,  and  so  prevent  strains  from  altered  axis; 
examine  the  feet  regularly  to  insure  against  foreign  substance,  and  to  detect 
and  treat  bruises,  nail-pricks,  corns,  etc.,  dress  the  hoofs  regularly  with 
Conkey's  Hoof  Remedy  to  preserve  the  natural  elasticity  of  the  hoofs  and 
keep  them  from  drying  out  when  the  horse  is  not  exercised.  All  of  these 
are  necessary  to  insure  the  owner  of  a  horse  against  sudden  disability 
of  his  animal  from  serious  lameness. 

Treatment  Where  the  lameness  is  due  to  soreness  or  strain,  rub  freely 
and  often  with  Conkey's  Pain  Lotion,  or  apply  as  a  dressing. 
If  trouble  is  deeper,  affecting  the  bone  or  producing  a  "bunch" 
or  gathering  of  abnormal  secretions,  or  if  a  counter  irritant  is  needed,  use 
Conkey's  Absorbent.  Conkey's  Absorbent  will  even  relieve  Navicular  dis- 
ease, for  which  most  veterinarians  resort  to  nerve  cutting.  Note  the  differ- 
ence in  the  treatment,  Pain  Lotion  is  to  be  rubbed  on  freely  and  often,  if 
necessary  bandaging  the  part  with  a  liberal  dressing.  But  Conkey's  Absorb- 
ent is  stronger  treatment;  in  fact  it  takes  the  place  of  the  usual  violent 
blistering.  Do  not  rub  the  Absorbent  in,  as  it  acts  by  absorbing  without 
blistering  or  leaving  a  scar.  Where  you  wish  to  treat  by  actual  blister,  use 


102 CONKEY'S  STOCK  BOOK 

Conkey's  Blister,  according  to  directions.  Actual  blistering  is  not  by  any 
means  as  necessary  as  is  commonly  supposed.  Try  the  non-blister  way  and 
keep  your  horse  from  scar  or  blemish. 

LAMPAS  This  is  an  inflammation  and  swelling  of  the  fleshy  bars  of  the 
roof  of  the  mouth,  back  of  the  upper  incisors.  It  is  sometimes 
spelled  "Lampers"  and  was  so  named  on  account  of  the  old-style  of  burning 
with  a  "lamp"  or  hot  iron.  It  is  a  natural  condition  in  colts  when  the 
permanent  teeth  are  coming  in,  and  usually  requires  little  or  no  attention. 
In  fact  it  may  be  classed  as  one  of  the  "imaginary  diseases"  along  with 
wolf  teeth  and  wolf-in-the-tail.  The  condition  will  soon  change  of  itself, 
but  the  animal  can  be  made  more  comfortable  by  the  following: 

Treatment  Put  the  animal  on  scalded  oats,  boiled  roots,  mashes,  etc.,  for 
a  few  days,  using  Conkey's  Stock  Tonic  with  the  feed  to  tone 
up  the  general  condition  and  keep  the  system  open.  This  soft  feed  will 
be  easy  on  the  swollen  gums.  A  common  and  very  good  treatment  is  to 
apply  to  the  gums,  three  times  a  day,  alum  solution,  using  one  ounce  of  alum 
to  one  quart  of  water.  We  advise  making  a  few  incisions  about  half  an  inch 
back  of  the  teeth,  and  applying  liberally  Conkey's  Pain  Lotion,  which  is 
antiphlogistic,  and  quickly  relieves  the  inflamed  condition.  On  no  account 
allow  anyone  to  burn  your  horse's  mouth  for  Lampas. 

LEUCHORREA       This  is  a  whitish  discharge  due  to  inflammation  of  the 
mucous    membrane    lining    the    genital    organs    of    the 
mare. 

Treatment       is  simple,  but  must  be  persistent.    Give  an  injection,  or  douche, 
once  or  twice  a  day,  using  one  dram  of  permanganate  of  pot- 
ash dissolved  in  one  quart  of  water.     Use  water  that  has  been  freshly  boiled, 
and  cooled,  each  time  you  make  this  solution.     Mix  according  to  directions. 
Another  treatment,  more  expensive  but  especially  effective,  is  Conkey's 
Horse  Tonic  to  be  given  as  a  drench  or  in  the  feed.     Conkey's  Horse  Tonic 
is  a  pure  root  compound,  especially  fitted  for  disorders  of   the   generative 
system,  the  nervous  system,  or  any  out-of-health  condition  of  brood  mares. 

LICE       These  are  commonly  found  on  the  forelegs,  especially  on  hairy- 
legged  horses,  but  they  may  come  on  any  part  of  the  body.     Poul- 
try lice  are  very  liable  to  attack  horses  if  given  the  opportunity. 

Treatment  Rub  the  horse  briskly  with  a  brush  dipped  in  Nox-i-cide  Dip 
and  Disinfectant  solution,  (see  directions).  Rub  the  horse  dry, 
then  blanket  if  the  season  requires  it  so  that  the  animal  will  not  catch  cold. 
Conkey's  Lice  Powder,  commonly  used  for  poultry,  can  be  used  on  horses 
also,  rubbed  or  sifted  into  the  coat,  or  blown  from  a  lice-powder  bellows. 

LYMPHANGITIS-WEED       This  is  a  swelling,  or  "stocking  up"  of  one 

or  both  hind  legs,  very  seldom  a  foreleg.     It 

starts  up  suddenly,  beginning  in  the  glands  under  the  thigh  or  forearm, 
and  spreading  down  the  leg,  sometimes  extending  even  below  the  knee  or 
hock.  There  is  local  heat,  great  pain  and  lameness  so  that  the  animal 
often  stands  on  three  legs.  It  is  said  that  horses  of  sluggish  or  Lymphatic 
temperament  are  most  liable  to  the  disease,  thus  it  is  common  with  draft 
horses,  especially  after  some  sudden  change  in  work  or  habits;  it  is  often 
called  Monday  Morning  Disease,  because  attacks  are  common  after  the 
rest  day  Sunday.  It  used  to  be  thought  due  to  over-feeding,  but  modern 


DISEASES  OF   HORSES 103 

veterinary  medicine  treats  it  rather  as  a  local  affection.  If  neglected  the 
lymphatic  glands  up  in  the  groin  may  develop  suppuration,  and  the  horse 
then  dies  of  blood  poison.  A  number  of  attacks  leave  the  leg  permanently 
swollen,  and  the  condition  is  then  called  Chronic  Weed. 

Treatment  Rest  the  animal  and  apply  hot  fomentations  to  the  leg,  using 
water  hot  as  the  hand  can  bear,  then  rub  in  freely  Conkey's 
Pain  Lotion  and  bandage  with  a  woolen  cloth.  Do  this  every  few  hours; 
or  if  you  keep  up  the  hot  fomentation  one  hour  at  a  time,  then  bandage 
with  Conkey's  Pain  Lotion,  treatment  three  times  a  day  will  be  sufficient. 
Meanwhile  give  the  horse  a  mild  physic  and  put  on  regular  sick  diet, 
(mashes,  green  fodder,  etc.)  and  avoid  giving  any  grain.  Mix  with  the 
feed  Conkey's  Stock  Tonic  according  to  directions.  With  this  treatment 
it  will  be  unnecessary  to  bleed  the  animal,  which  is  often  extremely  risky 
business.  For  a  chronic,  obstinate  case  of  stocking  we  advise  a  flannel 
bandage  (cut  bias)  put  on  over  oakum  padding  every  night,  with  night  and 
morning  treatment,  bathing  the  leg  in  hot  and  cold  water,  alternating. 
Then  massage  with  Conkey's  Pain  Lotion.  A  little  walking  exercise  will 
benefit. 

MALLENDERS  This    is    a    scaly    condition    of    the    skin    known    as 

AND  SALLENDERS      Mallenders  when  the  back  of  the  knee  is  affected, 
and    Sallenders    when    the    skin    on    the    hocks    is 
affected. 

Treatment  is  both  local  and  internal  as  follows:  Apply  Conkey's  Nox-i- 
cide  Dip  and  Disinfectant  solution,  two  teaspoonfuls  in  a  pint 
of  warm  water;  or  smear  the  part  with  Conkey's  Healing  Powder  1  part  to 
3  parts  lard,  made  up  into  an  ointment.  Then  put  the  horse  on  laxative  feed 
and  avoid  overfeeding.  Mix  Conkey's  Stock  Tonic  with  the  feed  to  keep  the 
system  open  or  use  the  regular  home-made  stock  salt  mixture  made  up 
from  9  parts  common  salt  and  1  part  Conkey's  Stock  Tonic.  This  medi- 
cated salt  can  be  safely  left  in  a  dry  place  where  the  horse  can  help  himself 
just  as  he  needs  it.  He  will  then  not  overdose. 

MAMMITIS  This  is  inflammation  of  the  udder.  Treat  by  hot  water 
applications  twice  a  day  and  rubbing  with  Conkey's  Pain 
Lotion.  Strip  away  the  milk  often.  Sometimes  it  is  necessary  to  irrigate 
the  udder  with  a  1  per  cent  boric  solution,  used  luke  warm.  To  reduce  fever, 
give  Conkey's  Laxative  Tonic;  or  give  daily  ^  oz.  saltpeter  to  aid  in 
reducing  fever. 

MANGE       The  horse  is  constantly  rubbing  and  scratching,  so  that  the  skin 
becomes   inflamed   and   sore   in  patches   and   the  hair  falls   out. 
This  trouble  is  due  to  the  mange  mite. 

Treatment  Separate  the  affected  animal  or  animals  and  thoroughly  clean 
up  and  disinfect  the  quarters  with  Conkey's  Nox-i-cide  Dip 
and  Disinfectant  according  to  directions.  Thoroughly  clean  all  halters,  head- 
pieces, blankets,  etc.,  and  burn  any  straw  or  bedding  that  may  carry  the 
infection.  Treat  the  mangy  horse  with  a  thorough  rubbing  with  Conkey's 
Nox-i-cide  Dip  and  Disinfectant,  2  tablespoonfuls  to  1  quart  of  water. 
Repeat  every  three  days  until  the  trouble  is  entirely  cured.  Compare  also 
treatment  under  Eczema,  Itch,  etc. 


104 CONKEY'S  STOCK  BOOK 

MARES  DYING       Preventive    treatment:      Keep    the    breeding    mare    at 

AT  TIME  OF  steady  light  work  right  up  to  the  time  of  foaling,  but 

FOALING  under  no  circumstances  overwork  her  or  abuse  her  with 

harsh  treatment  of  any  sort.     Do  not  feed  too  much 

coarse  bulky  feed  but  give  her  the  best  hay,  and  a  nice  grain  and  bran  ration, 
throughout  the  whole  period  of  gestation.  Keep  the  system  open  by 
occasional  tonic  treatment  with  Conkey's  Stock  Tonic  mixed  with  the  regu- 
lar feed,  or  use  the  veterinary  salt  already  urged,  made  up  of  9  parts  com- 
mon barrel  salt  and  1  part  Conkey's  Stock  Tonic,  mixed  thoroughly  and 
left  where  she  can  help  herself  anytime.  Examine  all  hay  carefully  and 
feed  none  that  is  moldy  or  musty.  Occasional  doses  of  Conkey's  Horse 
Tonic  in  the  later  months  will  be  very  beneficial,  and  this  same  Horse  Tonic 
is  excellent  for  bringing  the  mare  back  to  normal  condition  after  foaling. 

Losing  mares  and  colts  is  expensive  business.  Usually  it  is  entirely 
preventable  by  proper  management,  and  the  few  suggestions  given  above 
cover  the  main  points  to  be  considered. 

MENINGITIS  This  is  sometimes  confused  with  Azoturia  or  stiffness 

(SPINAL)  in  the  muscles  or  legs,  muscular  spasm,  etc.,  with  loss 

of  sensation.     Often  there  is  paralysis  in  whole  or  part, 

affecting  the  throat.  If  the  horse  is  not  able  to  swallow,  treatment  is  hope- 
less. Treatment  in  general  is  cold  applications  to  the  spine  in  the  lumbar 
region,  or  in  severe  cases  a  counter  irritant,  such  as  mustard  plaster  or 
strong  blister.  For  this  we  advise  Conkey's  Blister,  rubbed  over  the  spine 
lightly  as  directed  on  packages.  The  paralyzed  muscles  will  need  a  stimu- 
lating liniment,  such  as  Conkey's  Warming  Liniment,  which  every  stock- 
owner  should  keep  on  hand. 

If  there  is  much  paralysis  it  will  be  necessary  to  get  the  horse  off 
its  feet  into  a  sling,  and  the  bowels  and  bladder  will  have  to  be  emptied 
regularly  by  enema  and  catheter,  but  at  this  serious  stage  the  case  would 
undoubtedly  be  in  the  hands  of  a  veterinarian.  When  the  acute  symptoms 
lessen  give  the  horse  a  tonic  stimulant  such  as  Conkey's  Horse  Tonic, 
which  can  be  mixed  with  water  as  a  drench,  or  given  with  a  syringe. 

MILK  FLOW —  Dry  off  the  mare  by  cutting  off  all  corn,  all  graz- 

HOW  TO  STOP  IT        ing,    limiting    the    amount    of    drinking    water,    and 
keeping   her    on    hay    only.      Each    day    strip    away 
part  of  the  milk  and  rub  the  bag  with  camphorated  oil. 

MOON  Discussed  under  Blindness,  which  read.     Note  that  Moon 

BLINDNESS        Blindness    (Periodic   Opthalmia)    can   be   prevented   in   its 
early  stages  but  in  later  stages  is  incurable. 

MOUTH  SORES          Examine   the  mouth   frequently   to   see  if   any   teeth 
need  attention,  also  to  see  if  the  bit  is  comfortable. 

If  any  sore  patches  are  found  treat  these  with  Conkey's  Healing  Powder, 
lightly  dusted  on,  or  use  Conkey's  Nox-i-cide  Dip  and  Disinfectant  solution,, 
*/2  teaspoonful  to  a  cup  of  water  and  wash  out  the  mouth  with  a  soft  cloth.. 
In  this  strength  the  solution  is  excellent  antiseptic  treatment  and  if  a  little: 
of  it  should  be  swallowed  will  prove  beneficial  rather  than  otherwise. 

NASAL         The  symptom  is  a  mucous  discharge  from  the  nostril.    Compare 

GLEET         under  Colds,  Catarrh,  Distemper,  etc.     If  the  discharge  is  from 

one  nostril  only,  look  carefully  for  a  diseased  upper  molar,  as. 

this   may   be   the   cause   of   the    trouble.      Note    symptoms   of   Glanders   and 


DISEASES  OF  HORSES 105 

be  sure  the  case  is  only  Nasal  Gleet  and  not  a  case  of  Glanders.  General 
directions  for  Nasal  Gleet  are  as  follows. 

Treatment  Spray  the  nostrils  with  Conkey's  Pain  Lotion,  using  an 
atomizer,  or  apply  with  a  small  sponge  or  cotton  ball  stuffed 
up  the  nostril.  Rub  the  Pain  Lotion  all  over  the  outside,  clear  up  to  the 
eyes.  Give  the  horse  Conkey's  Stock  Tonic  in  the  feed,  which  will  act  as 
a  tonic  and  conditioner.  Grooming  and  other  extra  care  at  this  time  will 
pay,  helping  the  animal  to  get  quickly  back  to  good  normal  condition. 

NAVEL  AND  This  disease  is  due  to  infection  of  the  navel  at  birth, 

JOINT  DISEASE        or  before  the  part  is  thoroughly  healed.     It  is  abso- 
lutely preventable  by  proper  precautions  at  the  time 

of  the  mare's  foaling.  The  symptoms  are  soreness  and  inflammation  at  the 
navel,  swelling  of  the  joints,  and  lameness.  Often  the  symptoms  are  mis- 
taken for  those  of  accident,  the  owner  supposing  the  colt  has  been  kicked 
by  the  mare  and  thus  injured. 

Treatment  is  preventive.  Provide  a  thoroughly  clean  place  for  the  mare 
for  foaling,  having  it  thoroughly  disinfected  with  Conkey's 
Nox-i-cide  Dip  and  Disinfectant.  If  possible  to  whitewash  the  quarters 
this  is  advised.  Have  a  solution  of  Nox-i-cide  Dip  and  Disinfectant,  two 
teaspoonfuls  in  a  pint  of  water,  ready  to  use  with  plenty  of  small  pieces 
of  clean  cheesecloth  or  muslin,  soaked  in  the  same  strength  solution.  When 
one  of  these  is  used  for  sponging  off  it  should  be  thrown  away  in  a  pile 
to  be  burned  later,  and  not  saved  for  a  second  using. 

At  birth  of  the  foal,  immediately  wet  the  stump  of  the  cord  with  a 
solution  of  Conkey's  Nox-i-cide  Dip  and  Disinfectant,  4  teaspoonfuls  to  a 
pint  of  water.  Repeat  this  application  two  or  three  times  a  day,  dusting 
with  Conkey's  Healing  Powder  until  the  cord  is  shriveled  up  and  the  place  is 
entirely  healed.  A  standing  attitude  makes  foaling  easier  for  the  mare, 
and  in  this  position  the  cord  is  broken  naturally  and  there  is  less  liability  of 
hemorrhage.  However,  if  the  mare  is  lying  down  and  does  not  rise  up  after 
foaling  and  thus  break  the  cord,  it  will  have  to  be  cut:  first  tie  the  cord  2 
inches  from  the  body  with  a  piece  of  tape  soaked  in  the  Nox-i-cide  solution, 
and  then  cut  it  a  few  inches  from  this  ligature,  say  about  four  inches  from 
the  body.  Treat  the  stump  as  described  above  and  keep  up  treatment  several 
times  a  day  until  the  stump  dries  and  shrivels  off. 

This  solution,  or  one  similar  to  it,  should  be  used  on  the  raw  navel 
of  every  animal  born  under  domesticated  conditions.  This  one  simple  pre- 
caution will  save  thousands  and  thousands  of  valuable  colts,  calves,  etc., 
every  year.  This  is  not  too  much  trouble  to  insure  the  young  animal  from 
navel  infection.  A  live  colt  or  calf  is  better  than  a  dead  one,  and  there  is 
a  strong  chance  of  the  owner  having  a  dead  one  on  his  hands  before  long 
when  such  simple,  safe  precautionary  measures  as  the  above  are  neglected. 

Before  the  colt  sucks,  sponge  off  the  udder  of  the  mare  and  her  hinder 
parts  with  Conkey's  Nox-i-cide  Dip  and  Disinfectant  solution,  2  tea- 
spoonfuls  in  a  pint  of  water.  Twice  a  day  for  ten  days  wash  the  udder  with 
this  solution  and  your  colt  will  probably  come  through  without  the  common 
troubles  with  scours,  etc. 

Even  mares  foaling  on  clean  grass  should  have  attention  as  suggested 
above,  and  in  every  case  the  navel  should  be  treated  and  the  mare's  udder 
and  quarters  should  be  washed  with  the  antiseptic  solution  of  Nox-i-cide. 

PIN  WORMS       Inject  into  the  rectum  three  nights  a  week  y*  gallon   of 

Conkey's   Nox-i-cide  Dip  and  Disinfectant  solution,  using 

one-half  gallon  warm  water  and  2  teaspoonfuls  Nox-i-cide  Dip  and  Disin- 


106 CONKEY'S   STOCK   BOOK 

fectant.  Use  an  ordinary  hose  and  funnel.  This  will  get  rid  of  the  worms 
in  the  rectum,  but  as  the  horse  will  probably  have  other  stomach  and  intes- 
tinal parasites,  treat  with  Conkey's  Worm  Remedy. 

PINK  EYE      Compare  treatment  under  Influenza,   Pinkeye,  Distemper  or 
Strangles. 

PNEUMONIA  OR       Neglected   colds   easily   run   into  pneumonia.     There 

LUNG  FEVER  is  high  fever,  difficult  breathing,  short,  painful  cough, 

and  the   eyes   are   highly   injected    (the   blood-vessels 

standing  out  prominently  on  the  eye-ball,  and  changing  from  red  to  a  purple- 
gray  color).  The  animal  stands  in  a  listless  manner,  with  countenance  dis- 
tressed. When  the  ear  is  placed  to  the  chest  a  dry-rubbing  sound  is  heard. 

Treatment  Put  the  sick  horse  in  comfortable  quarters,  if  possible  a  box 
stall.  Have  plenty  of  fresh  air  but  no  draft,  and  blanket  if 
the  weather  is  at  all  cold.  There  will  be  little  appetite,  but  put  the  animal 
on  such  sick  diet  as  mashes,  cooked  roots,  moistened  hay,  etc.,  mixing  Con- 
key's  Stock  Tonic  with  the  feed  as  directed.  The  animal's  strength  must 
be  kept  up  and  the  Stock  Tonic  will  increase  the  appetite,  in  addition  to 
having  tonic  effect.  It  will  also  insure  digestion  of  the  food  taken,  and 
will  keep  the  system  open.  If  the  animal  will  not  eat,  give  eggs  and  milk  to 
tempt  the  appetite.  Rub  the  throat  and  chest  with  Conkey's  Pain  Lotion. 
Rub  the  legs  until  they  are  warm,  using  Conkey's  Warming  Liniment, 
rubbing  in  a  little  dry  mustard  to  produce  warmth,  then  bandage  over 
with  woolen  bandages.  These  will  need  to  be  taken  off  once  or  twice  a 
day  and  the  legs  hand-rubbed  before  replacing  them.  Do  not  rub  the 
chest  with  powerful  blisters,  but  if  hot  applications  are  needed  you  can 
use  mustard  paste,  putting  it  on  the  chest  and  also  around  back  of  the 
shoulder  blades  and  down  to  the  middle  of  the  body,  below  the  chest. 
Go  lightly  over  the  thin  skin  back  of  the  elbow.  Wash  this  paste  off  in  half 
an  hour.  Keep  the  horse  blanketed.  Inhalation  treatment  with  a  pail  of 
steaming  water,  or  a  nose  bag,  will  be  useful.  You  can  use  Conkey's  Pain 
Lotion,  Conkey's  Pi-no  or  Conkey's  Nox-i-cide  Dip  and  Disinfectant  for 
steaming  the  nostrils,  all  of  which  are  powerful  disinfectants  and  germicides. 
Directions  for  use  of  each  on  the  package. 

POLL  EVIL  This  is  a  painful  swelling  on  top  of  the  head,  i.  e.,  the  poll, 
which  may  come  from  a  blow  or  bruise  from  low  doorways, 
or  from  beams  which  the  horse  strikes  when  tossing  its  head,  or  from 
pressure  of  tight  over-drawn  checks.  Poll  evil  is  in  reality  an  abscess  on 
the  top  of  the  head,  and  is  liable  to  be  serious  because  of  its  location  at  a 
high  point,  since  the  abscess  will  tend  to  deepen  and  burrow,  and  also 
because  of  the  important  bloodvessels  at  that  part  which  may  be  injured 
in  ordinary  treatment. 

Treatment  Poll  Evil  is  easy  to  cure  if  treated  when  it  first  appears,  about 
all  that  is  necessary  being  to  give  hot  or  cold  applications  to 
prevent  the  formation  of  pus,  using  a  solution  of  Nox-i-cide  Dip  and  Disin- 
fectant (1  tablespoonful  to  1  quart  of  hot  or  cold  water).  The  horse  should 
be  watched  as  to  diet,  and  limited  to  laxative,  non-heating  feeds. 

However,  most  cases  are  not  treated  until  the  swelling  has  spread  and 
pus  is  formed  and  commencing  to  burrow.  The  longer  neglected,  the 
deeper  the  abscess  works,  getting  down  beneath  the  muscles,  in  time  affect- 
ing the  bones.  To  treat,  get  Conkey's  Poll  Evil  Remedy.  Make  two  open- 
ings in  the  swelling,  one  at  the  bottom  to  drain  out  the  pus,  the  other  at 


DISEASES  OF  HORSES 107 

the  top  for  medication.  These  must  both  be  kept  open,  and  not  allowed 
to  scab  over;  and  the  abscess  must  be  kept  moist,  so  that  it  will  heal  slowly, 
from  the  bottom  out.  The  abscess  will  have  to  be  probed  to  the  bottom  and 
all  loose  tissue  cleaned  out,  working  gently,  as  directed  on  the  package  of 
Conkey's  Poll  Evil  Remedy.  Follow  directions  for  washing  out  the  abscess 
with  the  antiseptic  solution,  then  dress  with  the  Poll  Evil  Remedy,  repeating 
the  operation  each  day,  alternating  with  the  special  preparations  included 
in  the  package  as  directed.  This  treatment  heals  perfectly  and  without  the 
cruel  blistering  and  cutting  so  often  thought  necessary.  With  Conkey's 
Poll  Evil  Treatment  ^  there  is  so  little  pain  that  the  horse  in  most  cases 
will  stand  quietly  eating  its  grain,  apples  or  similar  tempting  food,  without 
interfering  in  any  way  with  the  operation.  With  a  very  nervous  animal  it 
may  be  necessary  to  use  the  lip  twitch,  however. 

PROUD   FLESH      Apply   Conkey's  Healing  Powder  three  times  a  day. 

QUARTER  Quarter  Crack  is  a  narrow  fissure  in  the  horn  of  the  hoof, 
CRACK  usually  on  the  inside  quarter  of  a  fore  foot.  It  is  the  same 

as  a  sand-crack,  and  differs  from  a  toe-crack  simply  in  being 
located  in  the  quarter.  It  is  caused  by  drying  of  the  hoof,  and  alternate 
changes  from  wet  to  dry  conditions.  Hard,  dry  floors  will  cause  it  if 
proper  attention  is  not  given  to  .dressing  the  hoof  regularly  with  a  good 
dressing  (Conkey's  Hoof  Remedy).  The  fissure  usually  commences  at  the 
coronary  band  and  grows  deeper  and  longer  if  neglected. 

Treatment  Wash  the  hoof  clean  and  examine  it  carefully  for  pebbles,  nail, 
etc.  Apply  Conkey's  Hoof  Remedy  with  a  brush,  well  up 
around  the  coronary  band  and  over  the  heel.  Treat  every  second  day. 
Conkey's  Absorbent  applied  to  the  coronary  band,  rubbed  lightly  to  act 
as  a  blister,  will  stimulate  the  growth  of  healthy  horn,  but  the  Hoof  Remedy 
should  be  applied  over  all  the  hoof,  every  second  day,  as  suggested.  If  the 
fissure  has  been  neglected  so  that  the  quarter  is  badly  cracked,  clamp  the 
edges  of  the  crack  together,  first  cleaning  out  the  crack  (Nox-i-cide  solution 
will  disinfect  and  clean  it  thoroughly);  then  paint  the  edge  with  Conkey's 
Hoof  Remedy.  These  clamps  will  keep  the  edges  of  the  crack  fixed  and 
immovable  and  the  healthy  growth  of  new  horn  excited  by  the  Hoof  Remedy 
and  Absorbent  treatment  will  fill  in  the  crack  completely. 

QUIDDING        Have  a  dentist  examine  the  horse's  mouth  for  a  diseased, 
split  or  sharp  molar  tooth  and  treat  if  necessary.     While 
the  mouth  is  sore,  put  the  horse  on  soft  feed  and  give  Conkey's  Stock  Tonic 
to  guard  against  indigestion  from  poor  chewing. 

QUITTOR      This  is  a  swelling  around  the  coronary  band,  with  intense  heat 
and  pain,  and  pus  formation.     It  is  really  an  abscess  of  the 
foot  (see  Abs'ceTss1),  due  to  some  outside  injury,  such  as  a  bruise,  sharp  nail 
prick,  gravel  in-2ftE$  foot  or  neglected  corn. 

Treatment  jJPqultf^e  with  linseed  to  bring  the  swelling  to  a  head  if  the 
"  ..atxljce.ss  has  not  opened.  Drain  out  the  pus,  remove  dead  tissue 
and  clean, ^dut^t^gropening  with  Nox-i-cide  solution,  2  teaspoonfuls  Conkey's 
Nox-i-cio^  ^pip  ;arvl . Disinfectant  in  a  pint  of  soft  water.  Plug  with  oakum 
saturatedyp  fte.vjS^mb'.  strength  solution;  .or  you  can  use  Conkey's  Pain 
Lotion. ^  Th,e,imrj!Qr|ar4t"lliing  is  to  drain  out  all  the  pus  and  keep  the  cavity 
antiseptically  dressed.  Be  sure  not  to  injure  the  coronary  band  when  drain- 
ing and  removing  dead  tissue  as  it  supplies  the  horny  growth. 


108 


CONKEY'S  STOCK  BOOK 


RHEUMATISM    Caused   by    exposure   to    cold    and    damp,    or   by    certain 

poisons  in  the  system.     The  symptoms  are  stiffness  and 

painful  movement,  with  lameness  shifting  from  one  joint  or  leg  to  another. 

The  joints  are  tender  and  swollen  and  the  muscle  affected  is  hard  and  tense. 


Treatment  Rub  freely  with  Conkey's  Pain  Lotion  and  rest  the  part 
thoroughly,  if  necessary  putting  the  horse  in  a  sling.  Give  a 
physic  to  carry  off  any  systemic  poison.  Put  the  horse  on  soft  food,  with 
green  food  once  a  day,  and  bran  mash  at  least  twice  a  week.  Mix  with 
the  food  Conkey's  Stock  Tonic  in  amount  directed  on  packages.  For  medi- 
cine give  three  times  a  day  y2  ounce  sodium  salicylate  in  solution.  Keep 
up  a  thorough  rubbing  with  Conkey's  Pain  Lotion  and  apply  hot  flannel 
bandages  between  treatment.  If  in  the  region  of  the  loins  a  good  way  to 
apply  the  necessary  heat  is  by  covering  the  part  with  a  thick  pad  of  flannel 
or  a  blanket,  and  ironing  with  a  fairly  hot  iron,  or  use  hot  salt  bags. 

RINGBONE  This  is  a  bony  ring 
or  enlargement  on  the 
coronet,  a  deposit  from  the  pastern 
bone  due  to  inflammation  at  the  ar- 
ticular surface.  If  the  deposit  is  from 
the  upper  surface  of  the  pastern  bone, 
namely  the  pastern  joint,  it  is  called 
high  ringbone;  if  from  the  lower  ar- 
ticular surface  (affecting  the  coffin 
joint)  it  is  called  low  ringbone.  Ring- 
bone usually  comes  from  faulty  con- 
formation or  from  wrong  shoeing 
which  throws  the  whole  action  out, 
making  the  horse  liable  to  injury  from 
hard  work  or  fast  driving.  In  early 
stages  frequent  rubbing  with  Conkey's 
Pain  Lotion  will  take  out  all  lame- 
ness. If  well  advanced  use  Conkey's 
Absorbent,  which  absorbs  the  deposit  without  the  pain  of  a  blister  and 
leaves  no  unsightly  sore  to  be  healed  up  later.  A  bad  case  will  require  com- 
plete rest  during  treatment.  Full  directions  for  use  of  Conkey's  Absorbent 
for  treating  Ringbone  come  with  the  package. 


Ringbone 


Bones  of  the  foot 
(After  Chauveau) 


RINGWORM         This  is  an  itching  skin  disease  due  to  parasite   (trycho- 
phyto    tonsurans)    which    causes    the    hair   to    fall    out    in 
ring  after  ring,  leaving  circular  patches  of  bare  skin,  of  a  scurfy,   stubbly 
appearance   and   constantly   enlarging. 

Treatment       Wash   the   part   thoroughly,    then   apply    Conkey's    Nox-i-cide 
Dip  and  Disinfectant  as  directed  on  packages. 


ROARING —  This   is   a   noisy   difficulty  of  breathing  after  exertion 

THICK  WIND —     and  is  due  to  paralysis  of  the  muscles  of  one  side  of  the 
WHISTLING  larynx,   or   to    a   thickening   of   the   larynx   membrane. 

It  is  considered  incurable  but  symptoms  may  be  less- 
ened by  the  operation  called  tracheotomy.  Consult  a  good  veterinarian. 
Frequently  it  results  from  neglected  Distemper,  for  which  see  treatment 


DISEASES  OF  HORSES 109 

with    Conkey's    Fever    Remedy    (under    Influenza,    Pinkeye,    Distemper    or 
Strangles). 

Treatment  is  not  successful  except  in  early  stages,  when  we  advise 
for  Roaring  Conkey's  Horse  Tonic  once  a  day,  and  for  external  treatment 
applications  of  Conkey's  Absorbent,  painted  over  the  throat 
from  ear  to  ear,  repeated  according  to  directions  until  four  applications 
have  been  made.  Do  not  feed  any  clover  hay  or  any  musty,  badly  cured 
fodder. 

SCALDS  Burns  or  scalds  from  hot  water  are  usually  inexcusable  and 
due  to  cruel  carelessness  in  giving  hot  water  applications.  Treat 
with  Conkey's  Nox-i-cide  Dip  and  Disinfectant  solution,  1  teaspoonful  to 
1  pint  of  warm  water,  to  draw  out  the  smart  and  sting,  then  apply  immedi- 
ately Conkey's  Pain  Lotion.  Dust  the  part  thickly  with  flour  or  starch  and 
cover  with  cotton  wool. 

SCRATCHES  This  is  a  diseased,  inflamed  condition  of  the  skin  of  the 
fetlock.  It  is  similar  to  Cracked  Heel,  and  if  neglected 
will  run  into  Grease  Heel  for  which  see  special  treatments.  It  may  be  due 
to  blood  condition,  and  is  very  common  in  spring,  but  often  follows  neglect 
to  clean  off  mud  and  dirt,  after  the  horse  has  been  working  in  sloppy 
weather. 

Treatment  For  the  general  condition  put  the  horse  on  Stock  Tonic 
mixed  with  the  feed  as  directed.  For  external  treatment,  clean 
the  part  carefully  with  a  brush.  If  necessary  to  use  water  for  cleansing, 
put  a  few  drops  of  Conkey's  Nox-i-cide  Dip  and  Disinfectant  in  a  cup  of 
warm  water,  and  after  sponging,  dry  the  skin  carefully.  Then  proceed  as 
follows:  Poultice  with  Conkey's  Hoof  Remedy  mixed  with  bran  and  con- 
tinue poulticing  several  days  if  necessary  to  reduce  the  heat  and  inflamma- 
tion. Then  clean  the  part  with  Nox-i-cide  solution  (1  teaspoonful  Conkey's 
Npx-i-cide  Dip  and  Disinfectant  to  a  pint  of  warm  water),  dry  thoroughly 
with  a  soft  cloth  then  dust  on  Conkey's  Healing  Powder.  This  will  heal 
quickly.  Meanwhile  keep  up  the  Stock  Tonic  Treatment  for  one  month, 
to  put  the  horse  in  good  healthy  condition. 

SEEDY         This  is  a  condition  of  the  hoof  in  which  there  is  a  powder-filled 
TOE  cavity  between  the  two  layers  of  horn  of  the  hoof,  sometimes 

extending  from  the  sole  to  the  coronet.     The  trouble  is  due  to 
a  horn  parasite  and  responds  to  the  following: 

Treatment       Cut   away  enough  horn   to   expose  the   cavity,   then   fill   with 
Conkey's  Hoof  Remedy.     Use  the  Hoof  Remedy  for  regular 
dressing  of  the  hoofs  and  this  condition  will  be  prevented  entirely. 

SHEATH  Washing  the  sheath  every  2  or  3  weeks  with  Conkey's  Nox-i- 
cide  Dip  and  Disinfectant  solution,  1  teaspoonful  to  1  pint  of 
warm  water,  will  correct  any  tendency  to  diseased  condition  and  entirely 
prevent  what  is  known  as  foul  sheath.  Do  not  use  harsh  soap  in  the  water. 
Nox-i-cide  Dip  and  Disinfectant  will  clean  the  part  perfectly  and  quickly 
and  beside  will  act  as  an  antiseptic  application.  Do  not  use  lard,  vaseline 
or  any  greasy  mixture  of  any  kind,  for  grease  is  a  culture  bed  for  dangerous 
germs.  Antiseptic  cleansing  is  the  safe  and  practically  the  only  treatment. 


110  CONKEY'S  STOCK  BOOK 

SHIPPING     Horses   which   have   been    shipped   are   very  liable   to   fever. 
FEVER  Put   them   on   laxative   feed   and   treat   with    Conkey's    Fever 

Remedy,  following  general  directions  as  given  under  Dis- 
temper. Conkey's  Stock  Tonic  with  the  feed  will  be  very  useful  just  at  this 
time  to  put  the  horse  into  fine  general  condition. 

SHOULDER 

SLIP  Apply  Conkey's   Pain  Lotion,  rubbing  it  in  freely. 

SIDEBONES  This  is  the  name  for 
the  hardening  of  the 
cartilages  of  the  foot  on  each  side  of 
the  bone  of  the  foot  (the  coffinbone) 
due  to  an  earthy  or  bony  deposit  in 
the  structure  of  the  cartilage.  That  is, 
it  is  an  ossification  of  those  flexible 
cartilage  pieces  which  in  the  natural 
foot  allow  the  soft  structures  of  the 
foot  to  expand  when  it  strikes  the 
ground  (and  conversely  when  the  foot 
is  raised  from  the  ground).  This  hard- 
ening reduces  elasticity,  causes  de- 
fective  action,  and  in  time  lameness. 

Treatment  Firing  is  useless  for  this  disease  although  commonly  resorted 
to.  Soon  as  any  lameness  or  heat  is  detected  apply  Conkey's 
Pain  Lotion  freely,  to  take  out  the  inflammation.  If  necessary  keep  this  up 
a  day  or  so;  then  apply  Conkey's  Absorbent,  as  directed  on  packages.  If 
necessary  to  send  for  these  Conkey  remedies,  you  can  use  the  time  to 
advantage  by  treating  with  cold  water  bandages,  or  simply  soaking  the 
feet  in  cold  water  frequently.  This  will  ease  the  pain,  and  will  also  pave 
the  way  for  Conkey  treatment.  The  cold  water  may  in  fact  relieve  the 
horse  so  that  he  will  seem  "cured,"  but  the  symptoms  will  return  as  soon 
as  he  is  put  to  work  again  if  the  treatment  is  not  given  also. 

SKIN  For  any  skin  affection  use  Conkey's  Nox-i-cide  Dip  and  Dis- 

DISEASE         infectant  mixed  with  water  as  directed.     Read  treatment  for 
Eczema,  Mange,  Itch,  Ringworm. 

SORE      Spray  with  Conkey's  Eye  Remedy  as  directed  on  packages.     Read 
EYES       treatment  under  Eyes,  also  under  Blindness. 

SORE  Treat  all  cases  of  sore  or  tender  mouth  with  Conkey's  Healing 

MOUTH       Powder,  dusted  on  lightly  with  a  ball  of  cotton  batting. 

SORES  Whether  simple  or  serious,  treat  all  sores  with  some  antiseptic 
soon  as  discovered.  Keep  Conkey's  Nox-i-cide  Dip  and  Disin- 
fectant handy  for  this  purpose.  This  will  prevent  serious  developments.  If 
sore  is  bad,  dust  with  Conkey's  Healing  Powder  which  will  heal  quickly; 
if  a  deep  sore,  use  Conkey's  Pain  Lotion,  which^will  keep  the  tissue  soft 
and  heal  from  the  inside  first.  If  a  very  deep-seated  sore,  or  a  pus  cavity, 
thoroughly  clean  first  with  Nox-i-cide  solution  as  directed;  if  of  the  nature 
of  an  abscess,  use  Conkey's  Poll  Evil  Remedy. 


DISEASES   OF  HORSES 


111 


SPAVIN  Bog  Spavin  and  Blood 
Spavin,  have  already  been 
treated.  We  here  consider  Bone 
Spavin,  which  is  a  bony  deposit  in 
front  and  on  the  side  of  the  hock,  due 
to  inflammation,  which  tends  to  unite 
and  stiffen  the  movable  joint.  If  ne- 
glected, this  deposit  or  growth  does  re- 
unite the  parts  of  the  joint  and  it  be- 
comes one  bone  substance.  Hence 
the  great  difficulty  in  treating  Bone 
Spavin  when  it  has  been  neglected. 
The  trouble  is  due  in  the  first  place 
to  inflammation  in  the  part  from  some 
accident  or  over-exertion,  in  animals 
with  some  fault  in  conformation, 
which  makes  them  liable  to  strain  the  part  and  thus  bring  on  inflammation. 


Sound  hock 


Spavined         Cured  spavin 


Symptoms       Hard   bony    swellings    on    front    and    inner    side    of    the    hock, 
lameness  when  the  horse  first  starts  to  work,  with  wearing  of 
the  toe.     In  hidden  or  "occult  spavin"  the  bony  deposit  is  on  the  inner  and 
lower  part  of  the  hock. 

Treatment  is  the  same  in  all  cases.  Take  out  the  inflammation  of  the 
joint  with  Conkey's  Pain  Lotion.  Put  on  a  high-heeled  shoe 
to  correct  the  faulty  foot  axis,  then  apply  Conkey's  Absorbent  according 
to  directions.  Do  not  blister  any  ordinary  case  as  Conkey's  Absorbent  will 
work  in  the  majority  of  cases  without  blistering  to  the  extent  of  taking  the 
hair  off  or  leaving  a  scar.  In  very  old  cases  it  may  be  necessary  to  apply 
Conkey's  Blister  which  should  be  well  rubbed  in. 

SPLINT  This  is  a  common 
affection  of  horses, 
being  a  small  bony  deposit 
on  the  cannon  bone,  usually 
of  a  foreleg,  and  showing  as 
a  distinct  swelling  on  the 
leg,  between  the  knee  (or 
the  hock)  and  the  fetlock. 
Horses  of  certain  conforma- 
.  tion  are  very  liable  to  Splint, 
hence  it  is  sometimes  called 
an  hereditary  disease.  Often 
it  comes  from  overwork 
when  young.  Lack  of  lime 
salts  in  the  feed  may  cause  it. 


Symptoms  are  the  nut-like  tumors  described,  usually  not  painful  but 
always  unsightly  and  always  making  the  horse  liable  to  sudden 
lameness  at  any  time.  When  the  splint  is  situated  halfway  between  the 
knee  and  the  fetlock  the  horse  usually  works  out  of  it  on  being  exercised, 
but  when  near  the  knee-joint,  which  is  more  common,  or  where  it  inter- 
feres with  a  tendon  or  joint,  the  lameness  increases  with  exercise  or 
"warming  up." 


Treatment       Apply  Conkey's  Absorbent  according  to  directions. 


112 CONKEY'S  STOCK  BOOK 

SPRAINS  Apply  Conkey's  Pain  Lotion,  rubbing  the  part  freely.  This 
treatment  should  be  kept  up  until  all  heat  disappears.  If  the 
pain  does  not  also  disappear,  then  change  at  this  point  to  Conkey's  Absorb- 
ent, which  will  be  effective.  Do  not  apply  the  Absorbent  until  you  have  all 
heat  from  the  part.  The  horse  must  be  allowed  perfect  rest.  Keep  the 
system  open  by  giving  laxative  feed,  or  mix  Conkey's  Stock  Tonic  with 
the  regular  feed  to  insure  proper  digestion. 

STAGGERS        Frequently  the  cause  is  overfeeding  and  indigestion.     Give 
a    brisk   physic,    then    correct    the    trouble    by    limiting    the 
ration  and  mixing  Conkey's  Stock  Tonic  with  the  feed  according  to  direc- 
tions. 

STOCKING      See  treatment  for  Lymphangitis,  Weed. 

STRANGLES       See  treatment  for  Distemper,  Pink  Eye,  Strangles,  Influ- 
enza. 

STRINGHALT      A  form  of  Chorea,  which  see. 

STUMBLING       Examine  the  feet  to  see  if  the  fault  is  with  the  shoes,  or 
if  the  hoofs  need  shaping  up.     Give  exercise  to  keep  the 
hoofs  in  even  development.     Apply  Conkey's  Hoof  Remedy  as  directed,  to 
keep  the  hoofs  in  healthful,  pliable  condition. 

Stumbling  is  sometimes  due  to  worms   (see  page   114).     Another  com- 
mon cause  is  bad  eyesight. 

SUNSTROKE  In  hot  weather  a  horse  should  be  allowed  water  fre- 
quently as  wanted;  and  the  head  should  be  protected 
when  the  animal  is  worked  out  in  the  sun.  Sunstroke  produces  a  conges- 
tion of  the  brain,  and  the  horse  will  stop,  stagger,  then  fall  to  the  ground 
unconscious.  Temperature  will  run  very  high. 

Treatment  Get  off  the  harness  quickly  and  prop  the  animal  in  a  com- 
fortable position  in  the  shade,  on  his  brisket.  Apply  cold 
water  to  the  head,  or  if  possible  use  a  bag  of  ice;  but  keep  the  head  cool 
and  sponge  or  spray  the  whole  body  with  cold  water.  If  able  to  drink 
let  the  horse  take  a  few  swallows  of  cool  but  not  cold  water  at  frequent 
intervals.  Give  a  stimulant  of  4  ounces  of  whisky  in  a  little  cold  water. 
As  the  horse  gets  better  keep  up  some  sort  of  tonic  treatment,  preferably 
the  use  of  Conkey's  Horse  Tonic  in  the  dose  directed  on  packages,  or  use 
Conkey's  Stock  Tonic  mixed  in  the  feed  as  directed. 

Prevention      A   horse   in   good   condition   does    not   easily   fall   a  victim   of 
sunstroke.     Keep  the  bowels  and  kidneys  acting  freely  by  the 
use  of  Conkey's  Stock  Tonic  in  the  feed  during  hot  weather,  feed  lightly  and 
exercise  regularly  and  you  need  have  no  fear  of  sunstroke. 

SWEENY  This  is  a  wasting,  shrinking,  literally  a  starving  of  the  muscles, 
especially  shoulder  muscles,  due  to  injury  to  the  point  of  the 
shoulder  from  a  tight  collar,  or  from  hard  pulling,  especially  when  the  horse 
is  not  in  condition  for  the  strain.  There  is  a  distinct  depression  over  the 
shoulder  blade,  sometimes  lameness,  and  stumbling. 

Treatment  A  little  exercise  is  good  for  the  horse  but  do  not  work  him 
for  a  time.  Fill  out  the  wasted  muscle  by  daily  hand  rubbing 
with  Conkey's  Pain  Lotion,  rubbed  in  well,  trying  all  the  time  to  loosen 
up  the  skin.  After  one  week  change  the  treatment  to  Conkey's  Absorbent, 
applied  according  to  directions.  Then  return  to  the  Pain  Lotion-  If  neces- 
sary, repeat  the  Absorbent  treatment.  This  treatment  is  very  successful. 


DISEASES  OF   HORSES 113 

TEETH  Have  the  teeth  examined  once  a  year  at  least.  If  there  are 
any  sharp,  uneven  molar  teeth,  they  should  be  smoothed  by 
filing  the  outer  edge  of  the  upper  teeth  and  the  inside  of  lower  teeth.  If 
a  tooth  is  decayed  have  it  pulled  out.  The  condition  of  the  teeth  affects 
the  whole  general  health.  The  teeth  must  do  their  part  in  masticating 
properly  as  the  first  process  in  digestion. 

THIN  FLESH  General  unthrifty  condition  calls  for  Conkey's  Stock 
Tonic  in  the  regular  feed  as  directed.  This  insures  full 
digestion  of  the  ration  given,  tones  the  organs  to  full  performance  of  their 
respective  functions  and  increases  the  contractile  power  of  the  walls  of  the 
bloodvessels,  thus  increasing  circulation.  After  a  few  weeks  omit  the  Stock 
Tonic  in  the  feed  but  keep  before  the  animal  all  the  time  a  veterinary  salt 
made  up  as  follows:  9  parts  common  barrel  salt,  1  part  Conkey's  Stock 
Tonic,  mixed  thoroughly  and  kept  dry.  With  this  treatment,  unless  afflicted 
with  some  fatal  wasting  disease,  the  horse  will  flesh  up  nicely  and  keep  in 
fine  condition.  Feed  the  horse  according  to  the  work  he  has  to  do.  Read 
carefully  the  section  on  rations  for  horses. 

THOROUGHPIN  ^   This  is  a  common  but  not  serious  trouble — it  is  more 
a  blemish  than  an  ailment.     There  is  a  distension  or 

puffing  of  the  upper  and  back  part  of  the  hock  as  a  result  of  some  injury 
to  the  hock  bone,  causing  an  excess  of  synovial  fluid  in  the  bursal  sacs  of 
the  hock.  This  distension  passes  clear  through  the  hock,  hence  the  name 
Thoroughpin.  It  is  soft  and  fluctuating,  that  is  when  the  puff  or  swelling 
is  pressed  on  one  side  of  the  hock  the  liquid  contents  of  the  puff  are  forced 
through  the  hock  and  bulge  out  on  the  opposite  side.  This  trouble  is  most 
likely  to  affect  young  horses  with  upright  hocks. 

Symptoms      There  is  no  inflammation,  no  lameness,  or  only  rarely,  when 
the  horse  has  been  much  overexercised. 

Treatment       In   early   stages   alternate   application   of  hot  and   cold  water 
bandages    will    reduce    the    swelling.      Ordinary    blisters    will 
reduce  it  somewhat,  but  the  logical  remedy  is  Conkey's  Absorbent.     Follow 
directions  carefully  and  in  bad  cases  repeat  every  two  or  three  days. 

THROAT  Never  neglect  this  symptom  for  it  may  run  into  a  dangerous 

SORENESS  disease,  hard  and  expensive  to  cure,  sometimes  incurable. 
Best  treatment  is  spraying  with  Conkey's  Pain  Lotion,  and 
also  rubbing  the  throat  outside  from  ear  to  ear  with  Warming  Liniment. 
Spray  and  steam  with  Conkey's  Pain  Lotion  or  Conkey's  Pi-no,  used  as  an 
inhalant,  as  described  in  Bronchitis.  To  every  gallon  of  water  the  horse 
will  drink  add  2  drams  potassium  chlorate.  The  usual  hygienic  rules  should 
be  followed  as  to  food,  ventilation  and  attention  to  the  bowels. 

THRUSH  IN  This  is  an  offensive  diseased  condition  of  the  cleft  of 

CLEFTS  OF  FEET    the  foot-pad  or  frog,  with  foul  discharge  of  pus  and 

more  or  less  destruction  of  the  horn  substance.    It  is 

usually  due  to  bad  stable  management — in  fact,  is  generally  considered  a  sign 
of  neglect,  as  standing  in  dirty,  wet  or  overheated  stables  will  cause  it.  It  is 
unknown  in  clean  stables  where  Conkey's  Nox-i-cide  Dip  and  Disinfectant  is 
used  as  directed,  all  manure  removed,  the  urine  drained  away,  and  the  feet 
regularly  cleaned  of  foreign  substances.  The  hind  feet  of  mares,  and  the 
fore  feet  of  horses  are  most  commonly  affected.  We  do  not  mean  to  assert 
that  thrush  is  always  due  to  uncleanliness,  but  it  certainly  is  in  the  majority 
of  cases.  Other  causes  may  be  working  on  rough  ground,  change  from  dry 
to  wet  conditions,  muddy  streets,  scratches,  navicular  disease,  or  contracted 
feet. 


114 


CONKEY'S   STOCK   BOOK 


Treatment  Clean  up  the  stables.  Then  clean  the  feet  of  the  horse  and 
stand  the  animal  in  a  tub  of  disinfectant  solution,  using  Con- 
key's  Nox-i-cide  Dip  and  Disinfectant,  mixed  with  water  according  to  direc- 
tions. Let  the  feet  soak  in  this  for  half  an  hour,  then  pack  with  Conkey's 
Healing  Powder  and  stuff  cotton  or  tow  into  the  frog.  Repeat  this  dressing 
every  three  days  and  it  will  cure  the  case  nicely.  Conkey's  Nox-i-cide  Dip 
and  Disinfectant  mixed  with  bran  also  makes  a  good  hoof  pack  and  will 
cure  Thrush,  but  this  treatment  should  be  given  daily. 

TUMORS  These  hard  swellings  or  lumps  have  various  causes.  Most  cases 
can  be  removed  with  Conkey's  Absorbent,  applied  as  directed. 
If,  however,  the  tumor  remains  hard  it  should  be  cut  out  by  a  veterinary 
surgeon.  Tumors  can  be  burned  out  (with  caustic  or  firing  iron)  but  on 
the  whole  this  is  not  so  good  practice  as  to  have  the  veterinarian  cut  them 
out. 

WARTS  These  are  really  little  tumors,  immediately  under  or  in  the 
skin,  but  usually  not  attached  to  the  underlying  structure,  hence 
they  can  often  be  pinched  off  with  the  thumb  and  finger;  cut  off;  or  strangu- 
lated with  a  cord  tied  tight  around  the  base  and  allowed  to  stay  on  until 
the  wart  sloughs  off;  but  in  this  case  it  is  necessary  to  apply  a  little 
chloride  of  antimony  every  two  days  until  the  base  is  a  little  lower  than 
the  other  skin  surface,  then  treat  with  zinc  ointment  every  two  days,  or 
better  yet,  Conkey's  Healing  Powder.  It  is  claimed  by  good  authorities  that 
cold  pressed  castor  oil  applied  daily  will  drive  them  away.  We  have  no 
scientiijc  explanation  as  to  this,  but  in  practice  it  seems  to  work  very  well 
for  certain  kinds  of  warts,  especially  if  the  wart  is  not  large  and  has  a 
broad  base.  Our  own  treatment  is  to  simply  touch  the  top  of  the  wart  with 
Conkey's  Nox-i-cide  Dip  and  Disinfectant  full  strength,  three  times  a  day 
for  a  few  days,  when  the  warts  disappear. 


WINDGALLS— 
WIND  PUFFS 


These  are  puffy 
enlargements  on 
the  inside  or 
outside  of  the  fetlock  joint,  usually 
on  a  hind  leg.  A  Windgall  is  real- 
ly a  dropsical  condition  of  the 
bursae,  or  the  tendon  of  the  joint. 
The  condition  does  not  always 
need  treatment  as  there  is  no 
discomfort  or  interference  with 
usefulness.  Old  windgalls  some- 
times cause  stiffness,  however.  The 
best  treatment  is  rest,  cold  water 
bandages  for  a  few  days,  or  free 
rubbing  with  Conkey's  Pain  Lo- 
tion, then  application  of  Conkey's 
Absorbent  according  to  directions. 


CUTS 


2,3-inlSments 
from  injury 


Windgall 

and 

splint 


Cured 
splint 


- 
and    sometimes   very   sen- 

ous.  Get  rid  of  barbed 
wire  as  rapidly  as  possible  as  its  use  is  dangerous.  Keep  on  hand  Conkey's 
Npx-i-cide  Dip  and  Disinfectant,  Conkey's  Pain  Lotion  and  Conkey's  Heal- 
ing Powder  and  use  according  to  the  nature  of  the  cut  as  described  under 
Wounds.  The  first  necessity  is  antiseptic  treatment  to  prevent  infection. 
Often  this  is  all  that  is  necessary,  but  never  neglect  any  open  cut  on  an 


DISEASES  OF  HORSES 


115 


Intestinal  worms  of  the  horse 


animal's  body.  Use  what  you  have  on  hand,  for  delay  is  dangerous.  But 
prepare  for  emergencies  by  having  on  hand  the  above  three  indispensables 
for  first  aid  to  the  injured. 

WORMS  The  horse  is  a  host  for  many 
parasites  of  the  stomach  and  in- 
testines, which  enter  the  body  along  with 
impure  food  and  water  or  while  grazing  on 
undrained  or  marshy  pasture.  Of  these  the 
Large  Round  Worms  in  the  small  intestine 
and  the  Small  Threadworms  in  the  large  in- 
testine and  rectum  give  most  trouble.  Be- 
sides these  there  are  three  species  of  tape- 
worm found  in  the  intestines,  sometimes 
reaching  as  much  as  20  to  30  feet  in  length. 
Worms  are  always  unprofitable  for  the  live- 
stock owner.  They  often  cause  very  serious 
disorders,  and  in  every  case  are  a  drain  on 
the  vitality  of  the  animal.  It  is  always  ex- 
pensive to  feed  worms. 

Symptoms  General  unthrifty  condition; 
dysentery;  colicky  pains;  appe- 
tite depraved;  rubbing  the  tail  or  mane; 
pouting  of  the  anus,  itching  rectum  and  fre- 
quent signs  of  the  parasites  in  the  manure 
discharge  are  common  symptoms.  Lifting 
the  upper  lip  is  also  considered  a  symptom. 
Usually  there  is  a  ravenous  appetite,  a  pot- 
belly, but  the  animal  fails  to  thrive  in  spite 
of  the  best  feed  and  general  good  care.  How  can  it  thrive?  The  length 
of  the  small  intestine  is  about  60  feet,  the  large  intestine  30  feet  more.  The 
embryos  taken  in  through  the  mouth  develop  rapidly,  reproduce  themselves, 
and  soon  the  whole  length  of  the  bowel  is  crowded  with  blood  sucking 
parasites.  It  is  absolutely  necessary  to  get  rid  of  the  worms. 

Treatment  If  the  condition  has  been  neglected  to  the  point  of  the  above 
symptoms,  it  will  be  necessary  to  give  active  vermicide  treat- 
ment at  once,  using  Conkey's  Worm  Remedy.  Then  put  the  horse  on  regu- 
lar Stock  Tonic  treatment,  using  l/2  tablespoonful  with  the  regular  feed 
twice  a  day.  The  horse  will  pick  up  rapidly  for  Stock  Tonic  increases  the 
appetite  for  the  ration,  insures  full  digestion  of  the  food  taken,  tones  up  the 
body  organs  and  acts  directly  on  the  blood  vessels,  thus  increasing  circu- 
lation. 

Prevention  Here  again  prevention  is  easiest  and  cheapest.  Do  not  let 
the  worms  get  a  good  start,  but  use  a  home-made  medicated 
stock  salt  all  the  time  and  let  each  animal  treat  itself.  The  best  stock  salt 
as  well  as  the  cheapest,  is  easily  made  from  90  pounds  of  common  barrel 
salt  and  10  pounds  of  Conkey's  Stock  Tonic.  Mix  this  thoroughly  and  keep 
in  a  dry  place  where  the  horse  can  help  himself. 

YEAST  This    is    a    successful,    popular    treatment    for    sterility 

TREATMENT       leuchorrea    and    Epizootic    Abortion,    and    while    familial 
to    most    stockmen    it    is    included    here    convenient    for 
ready  reference.     Of  course,  where  sterility  is  due  to  poor  condition,  or  to 
some  deformity,  the  yeast  treatment  would  not  benefit.     Its  success  is  due 


116 


CONKEY'S  STOCK  BOOK 


to  the  fact  that  it  corrects  the  unnatural  acidity  of  the  secretions,  which  is 
the  common  cause  of  failure  to  breed  when  the  mare  is  otherwise  healthy. 

Mix  to  a  paste  with  a  little  warm  water  one  cake  of  compressed  yeast 
and  allow  to  stand  in  a  moderately  warm  room  for  twelve  hours;  then  add 
a  pint  of  warm  water  and  allow  to  stand  as  before;  then  strain  through 
cheesecloth.  The  mixture  will  now  be  ready  for  use  and  should  be  injected 
in  the  vagina  by  means  of  a  syringe  or  hose  and  funnel  after  flushing  out 
the  passage  with  warm  water.  Use  when  mare  is  seen  to  be  in  heat  and 
have  her  bred  when  period  of  heat  is  about  over.  Try  the  same  treatment 
for  barren  cows  and  sows. 


20 


Diagram  showing  Points  of  the  Horse  and  location  of  common  injuries  and  diseases. 

A— Thoroughpin     B— Curb     C— Bog  and  Blood  Spavin     D— Bone  Spavin      E— Splint 
F— Windgall       G-Capped  Elbow       H— Poll  Evil 


1.  Muzzle 

2.  Crest 

3.  Withers 

4.  Loin 

5.  Hip 

6.  Croup 

7.  Thigh 


8.  Quarter 

9.  Gaskin  or  lower  thigh 

10.  Hock 

11.  Stifle 

12.  Flank 

13.  Tendons 

14.  Fetlock 


15.  Pastern 

16.  Heel 

17.  Cannon 

18.  Knee 

19.  Fore  arm 

20.  Shoulder 

21.  Throat  latch 


DAIRY   HERD 


117 


CATTLE 
I.    The  Dairy  Herd 

TTTHEN  you  come  to  the  dairy  you  come  to  the  highest  principle  of 

l/l/     livestock  farming. 

V  Y  In  the  dairy,  most  of  all,  you  realize  that  raising  livestock  is  a 
"manufacturing  business,"  with  dairy  animals  for  machinery,  improved,  and 
unimproved,  and  feed  for  the  raw  material.  Good  sense,  on  the  dairy  farm 
as  in  the  factory,  is: 

1.  Securing  the  best  raw  material  the  cheapest  way, 

2.  Selecting,  caring  for,  mending,  improving  machinery, 

3.  Stopping  unnecessary  waste, 

4.  Getting  the  best  market  for  products. 

RAW  MATERIAL          This  whole  subject  is  too  big  for  subhead  discus- 
sion.    We  will  make  many  general  statements  in 

relation  with  other  topics,  but  the  details  have  been  taken  up  carefully  under 
the  section  Feed  and  Feeding. 


THE  COW 

"MACHINERY" 


How  is  your  dairy  equipped  with  dairy  machinery? 
We  don't  mean  have  you  a  Babcock  tester  or  a  cream 
separator,  or  one  of  the  new-fangled  milking  machines 

that  make  a  cow  think  she's  being  renovated  with  a  vacuum  cleaner.  Get 
down  first  of  all  to  the  cow.  Is  she  improved  or  unimproved  to  begin  with? 
if  improved,  is  she  a  good  specimen  of  her  kind  or  breed,  or  do  you  keep 
her  because  of  her  high  sounding  lable?  Or  is  she  just  a  common  ungraded 
scrub  junk,  full  of  loose  bolts  and  screws,  slow  to  work,  wasteful  of  raw 
material,  poor  and  uncertain  as  to  final  product?  Or,  if  good  to  begin  with, 
do  you  keep  her  "oiled"  up  in  slick  running  order,  considering  the  wear  and 
tear  on  high  grade  machines  when  run  with  a  high  pressure  motor  for 
heavy  factory  output. 


CONKEY'S  STOCK  BOOK 


STOP  THAT  Stop  that  waste.  Dairying  is  a  business  —  not  guesswork. 
WASTE  All  profit  in  dairying  is  based  on  knowledge  of  the  indi- 

vidual cow. 

As  a  business  proposition  the  rule  in  dairying  is  to  find  out  and  get 
rid  of  the  unprofitable  cow. 

"GONE  AND  Iowa  has  —  just  that!  Iowa,  the  second  largest  dairy  state 
DONE  IT"  (New  York  is  first)  has  just  found  out  by  actual  tests  that 
her  farmers  have  been  patiently  milking  500,000  unprofitable 
cows.  This  means  that  in  labor  alone  there  has  been  a  useless  expense  of  a 
year  and  a  quarter's  time  for  something  like  10,000  men.  Iowa's  gone  an 
done  it  sure!  But  it's  pretty  much  the  same  over  all  this  country.  We  just 
happen  to  pick  up  these  figures  from  Iowa. 

ALL  WRONG   It  proves  we  were  all  wrong  in  what  we  said  above;  fact 
is,    in    most    cases    dairying    is    guesswork  —  not    business. 
Might  just  as  well  make  it  pay.     Pay  or  not,  the  dairy  man  can  take 
his  choice. 

CHOOSING         To  begin  with,   there  are  two   items   (shall   we   say  just 
YOUR   COWS       one  item?)—  a  good  individual  from  a  good  dairy  breed. 
Breed    isn't    enough,    for    cows    are    in    this    respect    like 
humans  —  it's  the  individual  that  counts. 

Great  strides  in  the  betterment  of  the  various  breeds  have  been  made 
by  breeders  and  stock  farmers  of  this  country,  starting  with  types  already 
originated  in  other  countries;  chiefly  in  England,  Scotland,  Holland,  and 
Switzerland,  as  shown  by  the  names  of  present  well  known  breeds.  These 
they  have  developed  or  occasionally  changed  to  meet  special  purposes. 
At  first  development  was  mainly  with  a  view  to  beef,  but  with  the  passing 
of  the  old  cattle  king  days  and  the  coming  of  expensive  feeding  methods, 
we  are  bound  to  give  more  and  more  attention  to  the  dairy  types.  It  is 
proved  that  a  pound  of  dry  feed  produces  on  the  average  a  pound  of  milk; 
but  it  takes  fully  ten  times  that  amount  to  produce  a  pound  of  beef;  (and 
it  is  interesting  to  note  that  beef  requires  a  third  more  in  ration  than  a 
corresponding  gain  in  mutton,  and  twice  as  much  as  a  pound  of  pork).  With 
our  modern  need  for  concentrating  the  industry,  and  for  more  economical 
feeding  methods,  we  have  a  corresponding  increase  of  attention  to  dairy 
cattle  as  representing  the  profitable  industry. 

THE  SHOW  RING     From  the  best  known  breeds  select  your  kind,  suit- 

TEST  ing  your  own   taste   and    suiting  also   conditions    of 

pasturage,   roughage,   etc.,  with   which   you   have    to 

deal.  A  good  milk  cow  sells  for  as  much  as  a  good  horse  used  to;  and  a 
good  horse  sells  for  as  much  as  two  of  the  kind  did  a  few  years  ago. 
Prepare  to  pay  for  what  you  get.  It  is  easy  to  find  six  cows  that  will 
yield  as  much  as  twelve  average,  untested  cows  would.  Judge  the  .  cow 
you  buy  as  would  a  judge  in  the  show  ring.  Look  for  (1)  dairy  tempera- 
ment, (2)  feeding  capacity,  (3)  constitution,  (4)  milk  organs,  (-5)  quality, 
(6)  pelvic  region. 

THE  DAIRY  In  general  appearance  dairy  cattle  are  noticeably  different 
TYPE  from  beef  stock  . 

Instead  of  the  blocky,  rectangular  outline,  straight  back 

and  belly  lines,  look  for  the  well  marked  "wedge-shape,"  with  less  thickness 
of  body,  narrower  thighs  and  back,  full  and  heavy  behind,  with  ample  udder. 
In  judging  for  dairy  conformation  the  udder  counts  25  points.  Fleshiness  is 


DAIRY   HERD 


119 


distinctly  objectionable  in  the  true  dairy  type.  Narrow  in  the  fore  quarters 
but  wide  in  the  hind  part,  it  is  easy  to  understand  how  the  dairy  cow  can 
produce  as  much  as  she  does;  with  her  great  development  in  the  lung  and 
digestive  regions,  which  account  for  the  biggest  part  of  the  "wedge,"  we 
have  a  capital  machine  for  turning  grass  into  gold,  i.  e.,  good  milk  and 
butter. 


Explanation— 1,  muzzle;  2,  forehead; 
3,  neck;  4,  withers;  5,  back;  6,  loins; 
7,  hip;  8,  pelvic  arch;  9,  rump;  10, 
pinbone;  11,  shoulder;  12,  chest;  13, 
heart  girth;  14,  side;  15,  belly;  16, 
flank;  17,  milk  well;  18,  milk  vein; 
19,  fore  udder;  20,  udder;  21,  teats; 
22,  hind  udder;  23,  thigh. 


A  MILK  Long  years  of  careful  selection  and  breeding  are  back  of  this 
MACHINE  milk  machine.  Every  effort  has  been  made  to  improve  the 
breeds  along  the  lines  of  early  maturity,  length  of  .milking 
period,  amount  and  quality  of  milk,  and  to  discourage  a  tendency  to  flesh. 
Thus  from  the  natural  animal,  with  a  milking  period  extending  only  over 
the  pasturage  season,  we  have  created  one  with  an  almost  continual  flow — 
6  or  7  quarts  a  day  for  300  days  being  a  good  present  average.  This  means 
about  4,000  Ibs.  milk  yield  annually,  and  many  herds  average  5,000  Ibs. 
annually.  Individual  records  are  often  very  much  higher;  and  it  is  common 
for  a  good  dairy  cow  to  give  ten  times  her  own  weight  in  milk  each  year. 
Even  a  fairly  good  dairy  cow  today  makes  a  butter  yield  equal  to  that  of 
three  average  cows  a  few  years  ago. 

IMPROVED  At  present  only  a  small  portion  of  actual  dairy  cows 

DAIRY  BREEDS     in   the   United    States   are   pure   breeds,   being   simple 

crosses  of  inferior  stock  with  pure.     There  is  plenty  of 

room  for  improvement  ahead.  The  case  of  Iowa,  above  alluded  to,  is  not 
remarkable  in  the  least,  for  dairy  farmers  all  over  the  country  are  barely 
waking  up  to  the  advantages  of  purer  stock  and  selected  individual  workers 
of  the  given  breed.  More  and  more  we  are  realizing  the  need  for  the  indi- 
vidual test;  for  it  is  possible  to  find  a  lazy,  inefficient,  and  yet  handsome, 
specimen  of  any  breed.  In  no  other  business  is  the  saying  truer  "that  hand- 
some is  that  handsome  does'."  A  good  dairy  cow  today  should  give  at  least 
5,000  Ibs.  of  milk  yearly;  or  on  a  butter  basis,  1/4  Ib.  per  day.  So  when  you 
set  out  to  buy  a  cow,  get  one  with  patent  insides  and  all  the  "wedge-shape" 
latest  improvements. 

Suit  yourself  as  to  breed,  of  course  narrowing  your  choice  down  to 
those  breeds  that  suit  your  purpose  best.  For  butter  fat  select  the  Jersey, 
or  the  Guernsey,  for  instance;  and  for  milk  the  Holstein.  But  every  breed 
has  its  special  points,  which  you  should  study  carefully. 

THE  JERSEY  Today,  in  point  of  popularity,  the  Jersey  ranks  first. 
A  sort  of  public  sentiment  has  been  built  up  about  her 
dainty  person,  docile  temper  and  good  manners.  Back  of  all  her  beauty 
is  undeniable  butter.  Her  tests  of  milk  yield  show  the  highest  average  of 
5.61%  butter-fat.  Indeed,  the  breed  was  developed  for  butter  production 
chiefly  and  in  quantity  of  milk  flow  is  outclassed  by  some  others,  especially 


120 


CONKEY'S  STOCK  BOOK 


the  Guernsey  and  Holstein.  The  Jersey  is  perhaps  the  purest  of  all  breeds. 
No  other  has  been  so  protected  from  crosses  and  infusion  of  less  aristo- 
cratic blood.  Early  in  the  history  of  the  type,  breeders  realized  they  must 
closely  safeguard  the  fine  points  they  had  gained.  In  the  island  of  Jersey, 
the  breed's  original  home,  laws  were  passed  prohibiting  the  importing  into 
the  island  of  cattle  from  other  lands,  except  as  beef  for  immediate  slaughter. 
The  Jersey  in  the  United  States  dates  back  to  the  first  importation  in  1853; 
and  its  popularity  was  quickly  established.  There  has  been  a  little  objection 
to  the  Jersey  cow  on  account  of  small  size  and  general  tendency  to  delicacy, 
making  a  little  more  care  necessary  in  housing  and  management,  but  still 
her  milk  pail  fills  to  the  brim,  and  still  her  butter  test  holds  its  mark.  And 
to  look  at  her  fine  skin  of  soft  cream  color,  or  tawny  white,  sometimes  with 
shades  of  red  or  steel  gray,  who  could  fail  to  give  her  all  the  praise 
enthusiastic  breeders  sing  for  their  "Queen  of  Dairy  Cows?" 

To  January  31,  1911,  the  tests  of  780  Jersey  cows  for  year's  periods, 
authenticated  by  representatives  of  State  Experiment  Stations,  have  been 
accepted  by  the  American  Jersey  Cattle  Club.  These  tests  average  7844  Ibs. 
7  oz.  milk,  421  Ibs.  3  oz.  butter-fat,  the  average  percentage  of  fat  being  5.403. 


A  Fine  Type  of  Jersey 

Divided    into    eight    classes    according    to    age,    the    averages    are    as 
follows: 

1.  Cows  under  two  years — Average,  6059  Ibs.  milk,  324  Ibs.  14  oz.  fat. 

2.  Cows  two  years  and  under  two  and  one-half  years — Average,  6847 
Ibs.  15  oz.  milk,  349  Ibs.  9  oz.  fat. 

3.  Cows   two    and    one-half   years    and   under    three    years — Average, 
7180  Ibs.  2  oz.  milk,  386  Ibs.  14  oz.  fat. 

4.  Cows   three  years   and   under   three  and   one-half  years — Average, 
7311  Ibs.  4  oz.  milk  394  Ibs.  2  oz.  fat. 

5.  Cows   three    and    one-half   years   and   under   four   years — Average, 
7630  Ibs.  milk,  408  Ibs.  12  oz.  fat. 

6.  Cows  four  years  and  under  four  and  one-half  year? — Average,  7993 
Ibs.  14  oz.  milk,  442  Ibs,  8  oz.  fat. 


DAIRY  HERD 1?1 

7.  Cows  four  and  one-half  years  and  under  five  years — Average,  8753 
Ibs.  5  oz.  milk,  469  Ibs.  8  oz.  fat. 

8.  Cows  five  years  and  over — Average,  9285  Ibs.  3  oz.  milk,  495  Ibs. 
3  oz.  fat. 

How  does  your  Jersey  compare? 

THE  HOLSTEIN       In  point  of  numbers  recorded  the  Holstein  leads  and 
has  for  several  years  past.     In  actual  milk  flow  the 

Holstein  easily  comes  first,  40  to  60  Ibs.  daily  being  a  common  average, 

running  7,500  to  8,000  Ibs.  a  year.     In  per  cent,  of  butter-fat  the  Holstein 

ranks  after  all  other  breeds,  practically  in  this  order: 

Jersey    5.61%  butter-fat 

Guernsey    5.12%  butter-fat 

Ayreshire    3.58%  butter-fat 

Shorthorn  3.47%  butter-fat 

Holstein    3.46%  butter-fat 

But  in  average  total  yield  the  Holstein  holds  the  world's  record,  with 

Colanth  4th's  Johanna's  yield  of  998.26  Ibs.  butter-fat. 


Missouri  Chief  Josephine— A  College  Educated  Cow  who  is  making  Holstein  history 

The  Holstein  is  a  large  sized,  short  horned,  lowland  breed  native  to  the 
low,  fertile  lands  of  Europe  on  the  North  Sea.  Friesland,  Holland,  famous 
for  its  butter  production,  is  the  central  home  of  the  Holstein,  which  breed 
is  often  known  as  the  Holstein-Friesland.  From  here  some  10,000  head  of 
foundation  stock  have  been  distributed  through  the  farms  all  over  America. 
As  an  all-round  dairy  type  this  breed,  the  result  of  two  thousand  years 
of  conservative  development  in  Friesland,  is  by  some  considered  superior 
to  any  other  breed,  on  account  of: — 

1.  Size,  strength  and  general  vitality; 

2.  Capacity  for  full   utilization  of  rough   feed; 

3.  Large    milk    yield; 

4.  Prepotency  when  used  to  grade  up  scrubs; 

5.  Ready    marketability    of    carcass   for   beef. 


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CONKEY'S  STOCK  BOOK 


The  high  percent  of  solids  and  comparatively  low  butter-fat,  cause 
many  to  urge  Holstein  milk  as  especially  valuable  as  a  perfect  food  for 
invalids  or  children,  of  good  substance  and  easily  digested. 

The  Holstein  reaches  full  height  at  two  and  a  half  years,  full  breadth 
and  maturity  at  five.  In  Holland  it  is  never  allowed  to  live  beyond  seven 
years,  and  is  then  fattened  for  market.  Because  it  can  thus  be  finished 
as  beef  the  breed  is  exceedingly  popular  in  the  United  States.  Holstein 
calves  are  large  at  birth,  grow  rapidly  and  can  be  fattened  quickly  for 
veal.  The  breed  is  excellent  for  grading  up  scrubs.  They  make  good  use 
of  some  quite  inferior  feed  stuffs  and  are  noticeable  for  a  general  hardi- 
ness and  vitality  under  various  conditions.  To  reach  their  greatest  use- 
fulness, the  Holstein,  like  all  good  cattle,  must  be  grown  right  on  from 
calf  to  finish  and  not  allowed  to  get  stunted. 


CHEATING       "The    stingy   feeder   cheats    himself   as   well    as   the   cow" 
THE  COW          is  homely  philosophy.  -  If  you  have   Holsteins,   which  are 
a  large  breed,  provide  plenty  of  "raw  material"  for  your 
factory  product. 

SOME  HOLSTEIN      De  Kol  Creamelle,  one  of  the  Holstein  champions, 
TOP-LINERS  gave  26,684  pounds  of  milk  in  a  year.     In  1907  the 

World's  champion  butter  cow,  Colantha  4th's  Jo- 
hanna, gave  998^4  Ibs.  of  butter-fat  in  27,432  pounds  of  milk.  A  new  record 
for  the  Holstein  is  Missouri  Chief  Josephine  on  the  farm  of  the  College 
of  Agriculture  in  the  University  of  Missouri.  Her  record  for  six  months 
(1910)  is  17,000.8  Ibs. -which  is  1,458 
Ibs.  better  than  the  record  of  Colantha 
4th's  Johanna.  Her  year  record  is 
26,825  Ibs.  of  milk.  Her  butter  test  is 
4.1  percent.  She,  gives  more  milk  in 
two  months  than  most  cows  give  in 
a  year.  She  produces  just  about  her 
own  weight  in  milk  every  fortnight. 
It  costs  about  77  cents  per  day  to  fire 
her  furnace  with  good  wet  feed,  alfalfa 
and  corn  silage.  But  she  earns  over 
$4.00  per  day  on  this  ration.  She's 
only  a  dumb  creature,  but  she  is 
worth  as  much  to  the  world  as  the 
average  electrician  or  mechanic. 

In  color  Holsteins  are  black  and 
white — not  mixed,  but  colors  sharply 
defined,  black  spots  on  a  white  ground. 
In  this  new  champion  Josephine, 
white  predominates,  but  head  and 
neck  are  spotted,  with  a  few  dabs  of  black  on  sides  and  tail.  Pure  bred 
Holsteins  have  always  pure  white  feet  and  white  tassel  on  the  tail. 


De  Kol,  Queen  La  Polka  2nd,  (Holstein)    She 
gave  3,376  Ibs.  milk  in  30  days. 


THE   GUERNSEY    The    Guernsey,    formerly    called    the    Alderney,    is    a 
close  cousin  to  the  Jersey  and  comes  from  the  islands 

of  Guernsey  and  Alderney,  in  that  same  group  of  English  isles  of  which 
Jersey  is  the  largest.  The  Guernsey  resembles  the  Jersey  in  shape  and 
form,  though  somewhat  larger  and  coarser,  and  in  color  tending  to  yellow- 
ish, brownish,  or  reddish  fawn,  with  white.  Its  hoofs  are  amber,  and 


DAIRY   HERD 123 

a  rich  yellow  secretion  is  a  characteristic  of  the  Guernsey,  on  which 
breeders  lay  stress  in  judging  points.  Yeksa  Sunbeam,  who  made  14,920.80 
Ibs.  milk  yield  at  nine  years  old,  is  the  Guernsey  champion,  with  5.75% 
butter-fat,  a  very  high  performance.  There  have  been  many  high  indi- 
vidual Guernsey  records,  though  fewer  official  tests  than  for  the  Jersey 
or  Holstein.  A  good  average  for  butter-fat  for  this  breed  is  5.12%.  The 
fat  globules  are  very  large,  and  of  rich  yellow  color;  which  makes  the 
Guernsey  very  popular  for  butter.  Like  the  Jerseys,  they  are  considered 
somewhat  delicate,  suited  to  the  mild  climate  of  their  native  isles.  The 
temperament  of  both  bulls  and  cows  of  this  breed  have  been  developed  and 
handled  on  the  Island  in  a  manner  that  would  indicate  gentleness  and 
quietude.  This  even  temperament  has  been  very  conducive  to  the  adapt- 
ability of  the  breed  to  the  various  climates  and  conditions  of  the  world  at 
large.  The  only  hindrance  to  their  widespread  introduction  has  been  the 
fact  that  for  the  last  few  years  there  have  not  been  enough  animals  to 
supply  the  demand.  At  the  present  time  they  are  largely  on  private  estates 
and  places  where  high-class  dairy  products  are  demanded,  and  few,  if  any, 
breeding  Guernseys  from  the  speculative  standpoint. 

The  American  Guernsey  Herd  Register  requires  of  all  cows  entered 
that  they  must  produce  from  two  years  old,  or  before,  not  less  than  6,000 
Ibs.  of  milk,  and  this  is  scaled  up  to  a  minimum  of  10,000  Ibs.  of  milk  for 
cows  five  years  old  and  over.  The  butter-fat  record  for  the  year  must  have 
a  minimum  of  250.5  Ibs.  at  2  years  old,  and  at  5  years  a  minimum  of  350  Ibs. 
The  American  Guernsey  Cattle  Club  was  organized  in  1877.  It  has  pub- 
lished 21  volumes  of  the  Herd  Register  and  has  recorded,  up  to  March  6, 
1911,  18,722  males  and  34,758  females,  a  total  of  53,480. 

The  Guernsey  breed  was  the  first  to  establish  an  Advance  Register  of 
the  basis  of  yearly  production  of  butter-fat.  At  present  the  highest  milk 
record  is  18,458.80  Ibs.,  and  several  cows  have  made  butter-fa't  equivalent 
to  more  than  1,000  Ibs.  of  butter  in  a  year.  The  average  for  1,200  records 
is  8,074.28  Ibs.  milk;  410.44  Ibs.  butter-fat.  _  ...  £&* 

How  do  your  Guernseys  compare? 

THE  AYRESHIRE    Ayreshires,    from    the    country    of    Ayr,    southwest 
Scotland,  may  well  be  considered  next.     Though  not 

yet  so  popular  as  the  Jersey,  Holstein  and  Guernsey,  the  Ayreshire  is  rapidly 
growing  in  popular  favor.  This  is  the  youngest  of  the  thoroughbred  dairy 
breeds.  The  average  milk  yield  stands  up  well  in  comparison  with  all  other 
dairy  breeds;  but  there  are  no  sensational  individual  performances,  although 
of  late  the  Ayreshire  has  materially  advanced  in  individual  yield,  both  of 
milk  and  butter.  The  Ayreshire  is  a  mixed  breed:  In  color  it  includes  red, 
brown  and  white,  sometimes  combining  all  three  colors,  and  easily  reverts 
to  white,  which  was  the  color  of  the  native,  wild  original.  Perhaps 
the  most  favored  color  is  dark  red,  with  about  one  third  pure  white  in 
splashes,  and  face  white  clear  down  over  the  mouth.  One  thing  about  the' 
Ayreshire  is  its  general  excellence,  as  distinct  from  spectacular  individual 
performances.  The  udder  development  is  good,  extending  well  up  behind 
and  coming  far  forward.  In  the  Pan-American  test  (1901)  the  five  Ayre- 
shires ranked  second,  right  next  to  the  Holstein,  in  milk  production, 
though  lower  (4th  place)  in  butter  test.  Ayreshires  are  rough,  rugged, 
good  practical  animals,  bearing  up  well  under  rather  hard  conditions.  In 
fact,  in  England,  they  have  been  called  the  poor  man's  cow.  They  certainly 
are  producing  cows  and  the  general  average  is  high.  There  is  always  good 
net  profit  in  an  Ayreshire  herd. 


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CONKEY'S   STOCK   BOOK 


The  Ayreshire  is  early  maturing.  While  distinctly  wedge-shaped,  they 
tend  to  flesh  more  than  the  more  refined  dairy  breeds  and  dress  out  a  good 
percent  when  wanted  by  the  butcher,  being  heavy  in  the  best  paying  parts. 
They  are  "grand,  big  cows"  say  the  breeders;  with  good  udders  that  milk 
all  away,  good  teats,  great  tortuous  veins;  they  are  cows  "that  handle  well, 
milk  well,  and  test  well." 

The  American  Ayreshire  Register  requires  a  minimum  of  8,500  Ibs, 
of  milk  for  cows  over  five  years  old.  Here  are  a  few  records,  each  being 
the  highest  in  its  class: 


A  Fine  Type  of  Ayreshire  (Croftjane  Dinah) 


Class 

Name 

Lbs.  Milk 

Lbs.  Fat 

Lbs. 
Butter 

Two  Year  Old    .    .    . 

Hazel  of  Sand  Hill 

11,078 

627.13 

732 

Three  Year  Old    .... 
Four  Year  Old  

Matie  of  Sand  Hill   .    .    . 
Bessie  of  Rosemont 

13,897 
14,102 

593.16 

578.57 

692 

675 

Mature  Cow  

Rena  Ross 

15,072 

643.71 

751 

A  new  record  for  the  Ayreshire  is  that  of  Netherhall  Brownie  IX, 
(owned  by  J.  W.  Clise,  Washington),  who  has  just  completed  her  official 
test  with  18,110  Ibs.  of  milk  and  820.91  Ibs.  butterfat  (958  Ibs.  butter).  She 
is  now  the  World's  Champion  Ayreshire  cow.  Is  it  any  wonder  the 
popularity  of  the  Ayreshire  breed  is  continually  growing? 

How  is  your  Ayreshire  doing? 

THE  DUTCH    The   Dutch    Belted   breed,   though   few   in   number   in   the 

BELTED  United  States,  or  even  their  home  in  Holland,  are  worth 

considering  on   account  of   their  peculiar   marking  with   a 

white   belt,    or   blanket,    on    a    black   body,     This    picturesque    breed    was 


DAIRY   HERD 125 

developed  by,  and  for  many  years  reserved  to,  the  nobility  of  Holland.  It 
has  some  dairy  importance;  in  the  Pan-American  Dairy  test  in  1901  ranking 
eighth  in  the  contest  of  ten,  though  in  butter-fat  its  rank  was  at  the 
bottom.  In  beef  it  is  hardly  superior  to  the  dairy  breeds.  It  lacks  in  size 
and  while  thriving  on  abundant  feed  and  care  it  does  not  tend  to  produce 
great  flesh.  Its  picturesque  quality  is  one  of  the  strongest  claims  for  atten- 
tion. Like  the  Highland  cattle  in  connection  with  breeds  of  the  beef  type, 
the  Dutch  Belted  has  been  employed  for  purposes  of  contrast.  They  were 
first  imported  to  this  country  in  1838;  but  while  now  scattered  from  New 
York  to  California,  they  are  not  found  in  numbers;  and  on  account  of  their 
scarcity,  there  are  almost  no  Dutch  Belted  steers  on  the  market. 

"NONE  OTHER  GENUINE"  The  Dutch  Belted  do  very  well  for 
THE  POOR  MAN'S  COW  novelty  or  beauty.  But  it  takes  the 

Kerry,   from   the   mountains   of   western 

Ireland,  to  live  up  to  the  real  definition  of  a  "poor  man's  cow."  Kerry  are 
small,  in  color  black,  red  or  roan.  But  whatever  the  color,  they  fill  the 
milk  pail  and  make  it  worth  while  to  churn  for  butter.  When  at  last 
they  come  to  the  block  they  may  not  show  much  beef,  but  what  they  have 
is  of  excellent  quality.  The  breed  has  a  positive  genius  for  grazing,  and 
gets  along  with  the  least  possible  care.  What  would  the  Irish  laborer  do 
without  this  cow?  It  is  true  the  Kerry  is  slow  maturing;  but  this  fault 
is  undoubtedly  due  to  the  hard  conditions  under  which  it  has  been  bred. 
Well  cared  for  in  this  country,  Kerry  cows  sometimes  produce  calves  at 
three  years;  but  in  Ireland  the  sixth  or  seventh  year  is  the  average. 

THE  DAIRY  MAN  Come  now  to  another  practical  consideration.  It  is, 
perhaps,  just  as  necessary  to  develop  dairy  men  as  it 
is  to  develop  dairy  cows. 

Two  milkers  of  a  herd  show,  one,  full  pails  and  contented  animals;  the 
other  scant  pails,  fretting,  impatient  cows,  and  sores  developing  on  the  sensi- 
tive udders.  Is  anything  very  serious  the  matter? 

Talk  about  dairy  temperament  in  the  show  ring!  Better  apply  the 
test  to  the  new  hired  hand.  Gentle  handling,  proper  stabling,  punctual  and 
sufficient  feeding,  are  prime  characteristics  in  the  profitable  type  of  man 
to  care  for  dairy  cows. 

On  these  depend  that  CLEANLINESS,  COMFORT,  CONTENT- 
MENT which  are  the  chief  requisites  for  a  profitable  dairy  herd. 

Don't  spoil  your  good  breed  by  a  bad  type  dairy  man. 

CLEANLINESS  Cleanliness  means,  beside  general  order  of  things,  proper 
care  of  the  manure,  in  which  some  say  a  fourth  of  dairy 
profit  is  to  be  found.  Cleanliness  includes  white-washing  once  a  year,  and 
brushing  down  cobwebs,  especially  from  the  windows.  Light  shows  up  the 
dirt — makes  it  easier  to  keep  the  barn  clean.  A  dark  stable  is  almost 
always  dusty  and  dirty.  A  barn  should  be  light  as  a  dwelling.  Cleanliness 
means  spraying  a  good  disinfectant  at  regular  intervals,  such  as  Nox-i-cide 
Dip  and  Disinfectant,  which  mixes  with  water  and  is  therefore  cheap. 
Nox-i-cide  Dip  and  Disinfectant  is  an  ideal  stable  disinfectant,  as  it  destroys 
odors,  prevents  flies  from  breeding,  and  destroys  all  germs.  But  see  page  9. 

COMFORT     Comfort  means  at  all  times  adequate  protection:  in  summer, 
from  buzzing,  nerve  tormenting,  milk-reducing,  flesh-shrivel- 
ing flies;  in  winter  safety  from  exposure,  especially  to  chilling  winds.     Try 
this  experiment.     Leave  the  best  cow  out  in  the  cold  winds,  and  see  for 


126 CONKEY'S  STOCK  BOOK 

yourself  how  exposure  will  take  the  milk  out  of  her  faster  than  she  can 
put  it  in.  In  summer  make  the  fly  spray  test:  Spray  Conkey's  Fly  Knocker 
about  the  barn  or  stable,  and  spray  cows  just  before  milking  or  while  out 
on  the  pasture.  Instead  of  giving  most  of  her  energy  to  tail  lashing,  Brown 
Betsy  or  Lilly  Lass  will  chew  her  cud  with  vigor,  in  the  spaces  between  quiet 
grazing,  and  you  can  be  sure  of  her  full  milk  production. 

22  POUNDS  OFF!      Missouri     Chief     Josephine,     the     Holstein     record 
breaker,  is  always  fully  protected  from  flies.     On  one 

occasion  when  this  care  was  omitted  she  decreased  tweuty-two  pounds  a 
day  in  milk  production.  Cheaper  to  fight  flies  for  your  herd  in  summer  than 
to  lose  out  on  your  milk  contracts.  One  enthusiast  writes  that  "Conkey's 
Fly  Knocker  is  worth  the  cost  in  one  milking." 

MORE  CALVES     There  never  was  a  time  in  the  history  of  dairying  when 
milk  cows  were  so  scarce  as  now.     The  great  need  of 

our  dairy  sections  is  to  raise  more  calves  and  buy  fewer  and  to  breed  for 
dairy  points  from  pure  bred  sires  whose  dams  show  good  performance, 
and  whose  grand-dams,  even,  were  "some  punkins"  at  the  milkpail.  When 
breeding  for  dairy  cows,  you  are  breeding  for  storage  and  reservoirs. 
Weed  out  all  that  fail  individually  to  meet  the  requirements,  no  matter  how 
pure  the  blood. 

MILK  SUBSTITUTES  Dairies  which  need  all  their  milk  supply  for  their 

FOR  CALVES  contracts  must  use   substitutes  for  feeding  calves. 

They  can  frequently  buy  skim  milk,  which  with  hay 

and  grain  makes  the  best  substitute  for  whole  milk  for  calves.  It  gives 
an  average  daily  gain  of  ll/2  Ibs.,  or  about  300  Ibs.  at  5  months.  Another 
milk  substitute,  somewhat  sensational  but  standing  up  to  actual  test,  is 
bean  soup,— the  navy  beans  boiled  until  soft,  then  squeezed  through  a 
colander  and  made  into  a  salty  soup.  With  this,  some  shorts,  blood  meal 
and  cottonseed  meal,  and  the  ration  will  be  found  very  cheap.  Feed  about 
three  quarts  to  a  calf.  Clover  hay  and  corn  fodder  make  good  forage  for 
growing  calves. 

THAT  YOUNG  HEIFER     Breed  her  at  about  21  months,  so  that  she  will 

drop  her  first  calf  at  2*/2   years.     During  that 

time  feed  extra  well;  for  you  see  she  is  still  an  immature,  growing  animal, 
and  you  can't  afford  to  check  her  development  for  that  of  the  first  calf. 
Gentle  manipulation  of  the  udder  at  regular  times  will  tend  to  increase  its 
development,  hence  future  capacity.  Then  when  the  calf  comes  be  sure 
to  turn  the  young  heifer  over  to  the  best,  most  rapid,  most  skilful  milker, 
as  the  manner  of  milking  will  increase  the  milk  supply.  Do  not  breed  her 
again  until  six  months  after. first  calving.  Try  to  keep  up  her  milk  flow  by 
skilful  management  in  milking  and  care  and  water  and  feed;  for  you  must 
establish  right  now  the  milk  habit.  She  should  keep  up  a  good  flow  up 
to  2 'months  of  the  time  of  her  next  calving;  and  if  her  butter  record  for 
the  whole  time  is  something  between  200  and  250  Ibs.  you  can  call  it  satis- 
factory. If  less  than  that, — to  the  butcher,  for  he  needs  her  more  than 
you  do  in  the  dairy.  Also,  if  she  goes  dry  before  the  limit  set  in  this  first 
test,  don't  waste  time  with  her  but  finish  her  quicklv  for  beef.  After  this 
second  calving  the  young  heifer  can  be  bred  immediately,  as  is  the  usual 
custom  with  dairymen.  With  mature  cows  the  best  results  are  obtained 
by  requiring  them  to  freshen  each  year,  permitting, each  cow  to  go  dry  for 


DAIRY  HERD 127 

6  weeks  to  2  months  a  year.  Of  course  there  are  instances  of  cows  keeping 
a  good  flow  for  2  or  even  3  years  without  calving  but  this  is  hardly  a  profit- 
able plan. 

THE  CALVING  SEASON     Distribute  the  calving  season,  letting  most  of 

the   cows  calve  in  the   fall;   then  you'll  have 
plenty  of  winter  milk  at  the  season  when  milk  brings  most  money. 

THE  DAIRY  BULL     Absolutely  he  is  the  best  animal  you  can  find  for 
the  biggest  sum  you   can  appropriate  to  that  pur- 
pose.    When  you  want  to  economize  go  without  neckties,  or  even  socks, 
but  don't  economize  in  the  matter  of  your  dairy  bull. 

A  good  one,  pure  bred,  with  a  record  in  the  family,  especially  on  the 
maternal  side,  for  milk-pail  performance,  will  grade  up  your  herd  in  short 
order,  even  if  ordinary  to  start  with.  But  there  is  an  even  better  test — 
the  record  of  his  daughters.  If  he  gets  good  daughters  keep  him,  as  long 
as  he  is  serviceable.  Do  not  sell  a  good  bull  simply  to  get  new  blood.  Keep 
him  right  up  to  condition,  with  not  too  much  fattening  feed,  but  a  good 
ration  of  ground  roots,  wheat  bran,  gluten  meal,  oil  meal,  silage  and  clover 
hay.  Give  him  5  to  6  Ibs.  grain  per  1,000  Ibs.  live  weight,  for  daily  ration. 
Keep  him  well  exercised.  Keep  him  .fit  and  fancy.  ,Turn  over  to  page  47 
under  Feeds  and  Feeding  and  also-  read  what  is  said  about  Conkey's 
Stock  Tonic  if  you- want  to  help  your  fulL  blood  animal  to  perfect  per- 
formance in  breeding.  This  is  a  most  vital  subject,  the  basis  of  pure 
blood  in  your  whole  herd.  You  can't  afford  to  lose  time  by  failure  in 
even  one  generation.  You  want  to  get  each  .time  a  gojod  share  of  what 
you  breed  for.  Don't  trust  simply  to  nature's  go-easy  method,  hit  or  miss, 
— a  sort  of  survival  of  the  fittest.  At  sq,  much  per  head  you  can't  afford 
any  unfit.  There  are  tried  and  trusty  rules  for  making  a  good  dairy  calf. 
Results  are  just  as  practically  certain  as  your  wife's  best  recipe  for  ginger 
cookies. 

THE  DAIRY  RATION     In  general  a  good  cow  eats  more  than  a  poor 

cow.     The  capacity  for  feeding  is  a  pretty  good 

gauge  of  production.  Look  for  large  capacity,  and  then  feed  full  up  to 
capacity.  Most  farmers  don't  feed  enough.  When  you  feed  a  cow  the 
first  50  to  60%  of  capacity  goes  for  maintenance.  When  you  cut  off  from 
full  capacity  you  simply  cut  off  your  own  profit;  for  the  cow  takes  care  of 
her  own  body  first.  It's  the  over-and-abovc  •maintenance  ration  that  goes 
to  milk  production.  You  will  find  page  35  in  its  own  section  the  general  dis- 
cussion of  feeding,  but  it  is  well  to  state  again  that  on  the  factory  basis  you 
must  supply  your  cows  with  feed  in  proportion  to  production.  Give  them 
all  the  roughage  they  will  eat  up  clean.  When  it  comes  to  concentrates,  that 
is  grain,  a  good  rule  is  to  feed  each  cow  every  day  as  many  pounds  as  she 
shows  pounds  of  butter-fat  in  her  weekly  performance. 

F.  W.  WOLL'S  Here  are  some  specimen  rations  selected  from  F.  W. 
RATIONS  Woll,  arranged  for  different  parts  of  the  country.  With 

good  individuals  they'll  give  good  milk  production.  You 
can  select  according  to  local  conditions,  and  vary  to  suit  the  individual 
cow. 

1.  All  she'll  eat  of  cornstalk,  with  20  Ibs.  hay,  3  Ibs.  wheat  bran,  2  Ibs. 
oil  meal. 

2.  All  she'll  eat  of  stover;  with  20  Ibs.  roots,  3  Ibs.  oats,  3  Ibs.  bran 
and  3  Ibs.  gluten  feed. 


128 CONKEY'S  STOCK  BOOK 

3.  All  she'll  eat  of  clover  hay,  35  Ibs.  corn  silage,  2  Ibs.  bran. 

4.  All  she'll  eat  of  corn  fodder,  40  Ibs.  corn  silage,  2  Ibs.  shorts,  2  Ibs. 
dried  brewer's  grains,  2  Ibs.  oil  meal. 

5.  Or  with  alfalfa,  say  20  Ibs.  alfalfa  hay,  4  Ibs.  oats,  2  Ibs.  cornmeal. 
Just  why  these  are  satisfactory  milk  rations  you  will  readily  see  when 

you  read  over  the  general  section  on  Feeds  and  Feeding. 

A  POINTER  Never  throw  down  feed  immediately  before  milking;  or 
ON  FEEDING  you'll  get  a  crop  of  floating  straws,  seed,  dust,  etc.,  with 
the  milk,  especially  if  you  are  milking  into  a  common  un- 
suitable style  of  milk  pail  with  top  wide-flaring  so  as  to  catch  all  the  filth 
that's  going.  To  avoid  this  a  good  plan  is  to  follow  some  such  dairy 
program  as  given  by  the  Cornell  Experiment  Station  for  winter  manage- 
ment, as  follows:  1,  milking;  2,  feeding  grain;  3,  feed  silage;  4,  clean 
gutters;  5,  water  stock;  6,  feeding  hay;  7  grooming;  8,  turn  out  in  the. 
barnyard  when  pleasant  (best  time  is  2  hours  early  in  afternoon);  9,  water 
stock;  10,  clean  stables;  11,  feed  grain;  12,  milking;  13,  feed  silage;  14,  ar- 
range bedding.  When  a  man  has  followed  this  daily  program  it  is  with 
a  clear  conscience  he  can  put  the  pin  in  the  barn  door  for  the  night. 

MORE  HOME-  One  great  need  for  profitable  dairy  farming  is  more  suc- 
GROWN  FEED  culent  feeds  and  especially  more  home-grown  feeds,  in- 
creasing forage  crops  and  reducing  pastures.  This  means 
more  careful  rotation  of  crops,  and  increasing  use  of  the  silo.  Many 
dairymen  today  do  almost  entirely  without  pasture,  even  in  summer  sea- 
son,  but  rely  on  soiling,  raising  plenty  of  good  forage  crops  which  can  be 
cut  and  carried  to  the  barn  for  the  animals.  Double  crops  and  silos  are 
the  aim  of  thousands  of  ambitious  farmers,  reducing  acreage,  but  making 
possible  a  larger  dairy,  with  small  risk  from  droughts.  But  the  whole 
big  subject  of  feeding  dairy  cows  can  only  be  touched  on  here.  A  fuller 
account  is  aimed  at  page  35  under  Feeds  and  Feeding. 

DOUBLE-BARRELED  The  aim  is  to  increase  the  amount  of  production 
PROFIT  and  lessen  the  cost  of  producing.  A  reduction 

of  10  percent  in  cost  means  a  bigger  profit  than 

an  advance  of,  say,  2  cents  a  pound  in  butter.  Feed  that  is  home-grown 
costs  less  than  what  you  buy,  and  is  better  for  both  cow  and  owner. 

GETTING  FOOD    The  great  thing  to  remember  with  cows  is  to  keep  up 

OUT  OF  FEED        their   appetites    so   they   will   relish   and   make   use    ot 

their  feeds.     If  it  is  not  palatable,  a  feed  is  just  that 

much  less  digestable.  They  may  eat  it;  but  there  is  a  larger  proportion 
of  the  substance  untouched  in  digestion.  It  makes  not  milk  or  flesh,  but 
manure.  Another  point  in  digestion  is  this:  more  than  one-half  the  live 
weight  of  animals  is  water;  and  85  percent  of  the  milk  yield  is  water,  01 
course.  Now  water  is  the  universal  solvent, — the  substance  by  means  of 
which  all  animals  and  plants  make  nourishing  use  of  the  elements  they 
absorb.  So,  for  complete  digestion,  furnish  the  animals  with  plenty  of 
water.  And  for  milk  production,  remember  what  a  high  percent  of  water 
there  is  in  milk,  and  take  deep  thought  of  the  old  milkman's  joke  about 
"watering  the  milk  before  it  comes  from  the  cow."  A  6  gallon  milker 
needs  just  twice  as  much  water  as  a  3  gallon  milker.  Some  dairymen 
say  a  cow  needs  about  2  Ibs.  of  water  and  1  Ib.  of  feed  to  each  pound  of 
milk  produced.  At  the  time  Missouri  Chief  Josephine  was  giving  100  Ibs. 
of  milk  per  day  she  drank  fully  31  gallons  of  water — warm  water  of 


DAIRY  HERD 129 

course,  so  as  not  to  chill  her  internal  organs  and  so  cut  down  milk  pro- 
duction. You've  noticed,  haven't  you,  that  a  cow  will  drink  a  good  deal 
more  water  when  it  is  comfortably  warm,  and  always  before  her? 

HELP  THE  The  dairy  animal  is  one  with  large  drains  upon  her 

DAIRY  BEAUTY  powers.  Every  year  conditions  for  dairy  herds  be- 
TO  DO  HER  BEST  come  more  and  more  unnatural.  Best  care  and  feed- 
ing are  the  first  need  for  the  dairy  herd;  but  an  oc- 
casional tonic  is  actually  demanded.  Conkey's  Stock  Tonic  should  be 
given — a  half  tablespoonful  in  the  feed  twice  a  day — not  continuously  but 
from  time  to  time,  as  a  tonic  and  alterant.  If  ailing,  a  dairy  cow  should 
have  one  full  tablespoonful  once  a  day.  It  will  tone  up  the  capillaries  of 
the  system,  increase  the  intestinal  secretions,  rid  the  digestive  tract  of 
worms.  Its  action  on  the  circulation,  through  tightening  the  walls  of  the 
blood  vessels,  is  another  important  factor  and  helps  to  counteract  the  bad 
effects  of  little  exercise,  from  which  the  dairy  animal  is  almost  sure  to 
suffer. 

THE  MILK  PAIL  TEST    It's  cheaper  to  raise  your  dairy  calf  than  to  buy 

a  satisfactory  cow.     If  a  cow  is  extra  good  she 

usually  is  not  for  sale — not  if  her  owner  knows  it.  When  you  have  selected 
your  dairy  cow  watch  her,  with  an  encouraging  but  suspicious  eye.  She 
may  be  fooling  you.  She  may  have  all  the  good  dairy  conformation  and 
show  a  good  appetite,  and  still  fail  at  the  milk  pail. 

"PROVING"  Know  what  each  cow  is  doing.  If  you  don't  know  what  each 
A  COW  cow  is  doing,  you  don't  know  what  you  are  doing.  Only 

actual  figures  for  weighing  and  testing  will  show  you. 

HOW  A   COW         Weigh  each  cow's  milk  for  three  days  each  month  and 

"MAKES   GOOD"    multiply  the  sum  by  10  to  give  the  monthly  average. 

Put  it  down  in  black  and  white  every  month  for  the 

full  twelve  months  in  the  year.  Add  the  total.  If  it  shows  less  than  5,000 
Ibs.  for  a  year's  work,  and  you've  given  good  care,  then  that  cow  is  a 
swindler,  imposing  on  you  for  her  daily  feed.  In  all  fairness,  if  she  is  a  cow 
of  good  type  and  receiving  good  care — in  short,  if  she  is  a  "good  cow" — she 
ought  to  show  6,000  Ibs.  of  milk  at  the  end  of  the  year,  which  is  2,800  quarts. 
She  should  also  show  a  test  average  of  3.5  to  4  per  cent  butter-fat. 

WEIGHT  There  you  are — weight  and  test.  Both  are  needed.  Some 
VS.  TEST  farmers  think  they  have  a  good  cow,  just  because  she  has  a 
good  yield.  The  barns  are  full  of  cows  that  test  3%;  but  it 
takes  just  twice  as  much  3%  milk  to  make  a  pound  of  butter  as  it  does  6% 
milk.  Another  thing,  don't  figure  a  milk  yield  on  anything  but  a  yearly 
basis.  Your  feed  bill  and  operating  expenses  are  on  a  yearly  basis,  aren't 
they?  Keep  a  cheerful  but  suspicious  eye  on  the  milk  sheet.  Some  cows, 
like  humans,  are  "four  flushers."  Don't  be  fooled  by  a  big  show  of  produc- 
tion that  doesn't  hold  out.  Get  rid  of  Bossy  if  she  milks  heavily  for  just 
five  or  six  months  and  then  goes  dry  in  spite  of  care  and  feed. 

Weighing  milk  keeps  you  right  in  touch  with  the  herd's  condition.  If 
there  is  any  shrinkage  you  can  find  out  at  once  just  where  the  trouble  is — 
whether  with  the  milkers  or  with  the  feed,  or  with  an  individual  cow. 
Your  milk  sheet  is  the  surest  gauge  of  your  feeding  system  and  what  it's 
doing  for  you. 


130 


CONKEY'S  STOCK   BOOK 


JUST   A  Any  old  record,  ink  or  lead  pencil,  a  regular  form 

CALENDAR — SURE      blank  if  you  have  it   (and  you  can  get  a  pad  free 

just  by  asking  the  G.  E.  Conkey  Company  for  it). 

But  keep  a  record,  even  if  you  have  to  use  a  plain  sheet.  One  practical 
dairyman  uses  a  calendar  pad  for  each  cow;  and  after  milking  jots  down 
the  result,  until  he  can  make  his  estimate.  These  figures  don't  get  away 
from  him,  and  you  can  just  bet  his  dairy  pays! 

For,  after  all,  while  there  are 
many  and  various  breeds — all  told 
about  100 — the  real  question  is  not 
a  choice  of  breeds  but  choice  of 
cows:  and  there  are  just  two  kinds 
of  cows:  (1)  the  profitable  and  (2) 
the  unprofitable. 

Which    kind    are    you    feeding 


now: 


r? 


If    it's    a    fair    question,    which 
kind  is  your  "choice?" 

Does  your  record  show? 

Stick  to  the  scales  and  the  Babcock  test! 


Which  is  the  Better  Milker? 


II.     Running  a  Dairy  for  Profit 

Looks  like  a  man  would  be  excused  for  saying  that  if  there  is  any  busi- 
ness in  heaven  the  dairymen's  would  be  one  of  the  few  allowed. 

It's  certainly  pleasant  to  think  about — a  herd  of  healthy,  happy,  "tested" 
cows  (in  heaven  of  course  they'd  all  be  Missouri  Chief  Josephines,  Yeksa 
Sunbeams,  Colantha  4th  Johannas,  etc.)  in  a  clean  cemented  stable,  com- 
fortable and  well  bedded.  Stalls,  light,  ventilation,  everything  first-class 
and  better  yet  than  that.  Food,  water,  everything  abundant  and  of  the  best, 
you  bet  you.  No  stifling  dust  or  odor  in  the  barn  itself.  Milking  utensils 
bright  as  a  new-minted  dollar  and  a  good  deal  more  sanitary.  You  can 
see  those  milk  pails  if  you  shut  your  eyes;  all  clean  from  hot  water  brush- 
ing— no  soap,  but  perfect  rinsing  in  a  pure  water  supply;  sterilized — abso- 
lutely germless;  small  topped,  and  even  that  opening  partly  covered  from 
floating  dust,  fodder,  seed,  etc.  You  smell  nothing  but  that  good  fragrant 
cow  odor  that  comes  with  the  good  milk  cow's  quick  breathing  and  soft 
heaving  flanks. 

THE  MILKERS  You  see  the  milking  squad — a  sound,  clean  set  of  men — 
get  into  their  white  milking  suits  and  start  to  work, 
with  absolutely  clean,  dry  hands.  Like  as  not  you'll 

want  to  rush  into  a  white  milking  suit  yourself,  but  the  foreman  somewhere 
says  not;  there's  to  be  no  rushing — just  quiet,  gentle  doing  all  the  time — no 

well-bred  gentlewoman  of  the  land  is  so  upset  and 
ruffled  by  any  noisy,  bustling,  rowdy  behavior  as 
these    pure-bred    milk     cows.       It's     the     gentle 
handler  gets  the  milk;  for  the  cow  responds  to 
the  coaxing  fingers  just  as  she  would  do  to  her 
own  sucking  calf.     You  see  each  milker  go  over 
the  body  of  the  animal  with  damp  cloth  to  gather 
any  dirt  or  dust  from  the  hide,  so  that  it  may  not 
fall  into  the  milk  pail.    With  a  separate  clean  wet 
A  practical  milking  stool  with       cloth   he   brushes   the   udders   carefully,   and   sees 
platform,  so  milk  pail  can-         that   they   are   perfectly    clean.      He    discards    the 
not  upset.  first   stream   from   each   of  the  four  teats  into  a 


RUNNING  A  DAIRY 131 

separate  milk  vessel.  Then  milks  quietly,  cleanly,  down  to  the  last  and 
richest  drops. 

HANDLING  Then  you  see  the  proper  handling  of  the  dairy  product.  It 
MILK  isn't  allowed  to  stand  open  in  the  barn,  however  sanitary 

and  clean.  Warm  milk  develops  bacteria  of  all  kinds 
rapidly  when  at  a  temperature  of  from  70  degrees  to  100  degrees;  but  very 
slowly  when  50  degrees.  At  Cornell  experiment  station  an  open  milk  pail, 
under  better  than  average  clean  conditions,  absorbed  5,000,000  germs  in 
seven  minutes.  The  milk  in  the  ideal  dairy  is  taken  to  a  sanitary  room  for 
handling  and  is  cooled  promptly,  that  is,  within  15  minutes,  to  45  degrees 
'or  lower.  Then  carefully  it  is  packed,  sealed  for  protection  in  transit,  and 
carried  still  at  a  low  temperature,  to  its  final  market  in  less  than  twenty- 
six  hours. 

That  would  be  milk  fit  to  offer  an  ideal  market. 

And  no  milk  less  fit  should  be  offered  in  any  market. 

The  market  demand  is  for  just  such  milk;  and  it  will  pay  in  turn  any 
dairyman's  prices.  A  quality  market  calls  for  quality  milk.  It  pays  quality 
prices. 

There's  always  a  chance  for  the  product  just  a  leetle  mite  better  than 
the  market's  best;  and  it  doesn't  grudge  the  difference  tacked  on  for  the 
product.  There  is  a  top  price  waiting  for  every  pint  of  clean  milk.  Clean 
milk  means  clean  milkers,  clean  cows,  clean  utensils,  clean  atmosphere. 

CLEAN  MILK  Milk  is  just  as  clean  as  the  dirtiest  thing  it  comes  in 
contact  with  from  cow's  body  to  consumer. 

Does  that  hit  your  dairy  in  any  detail  of  milk  management?  It  doesn't 
concern  us  here,  but  we  may  as  well  take  a  chance  at  another  big  truth — 
that  the  biggest  cause  for  contamination  is  after  the  city  housewife  gets 
the  product  and  leaves  it  around  in  open  vessels,  or  in  various  unsuitable 
atmospheres,  or  pours  it  out  for  her  household  in  far  from  germ-free 
"clean"  receptacles. 

But  never  mind  the  city  housewife!     She'll  get  hers. 

SAFE  MILK  Safe  milk  is  milk  handled  with  every  sanitary  precaution 
to  guard  against  filth  and  germs,  but  it  goes  back  a  step 
farther — the  milk  must  come  from  disease-free  herds.  Tuberculosis  is  not 
always  told  by  inspection,  and  the  only  safe  rule,  whether  called  for  by  the 
local  law  or  not,  is  to  have  each  cow  in  your  dairy  tested  every  year  or 
two,  and  more  often  if  needed. 


The  Evolution  of  a  Milk  Pail 

PROFITABLE  A  gallon  of  milk  usually  weighs  about  8  Ibs.  9^  ounces. 
MILK  Profitable  milk  is  milk  produced  from  cows  averaging  at 

least  4,000  Ibs.  of  3.5  percent  milk  annually  from  a  ration 
economically  "balanced"  (see  page  Feeds  and  Feeding)  on  the  principle 
of  largest  producable  output  on  lowest  possible  raw-material. 

Makes  a  good  many  syllables,  but  it  means  just  what  we  said  before — 
look  for  the  double-barrel  profits;  make  sure  you're  not  a  waster 

(1)  Of  the  money  invested  in  raw  material,  feed; 


132 CONKEY'S  STOCK  BOOK 

(2)  Of  the  money  invested  in  dairy  cows; 

(3)  Of  the  marketable  product,  whether  milk  or  butter,  on  account  of 
lack  of  care  in  getting  it  to  consumer. 

Fit  these  few  suggestions  on  dairying  to  your  own  management,  and 
you'll  deserve  and  win  one  of  those  comfortable  little  fortunes  so  common 
nowadays  from  dairying. 

III.    Dual-Purpose  Breeds 

Some  very  pretty  things  have  been  hoped  and  some  very  ugly  things 
have  been  said  of  the  dual-purpose  cow. 

Is  the  idea  right  or  wrong,  anyhow?     We  may,  or  may  not,  agree. 

But  this  much  is  certain:  Even  the  most  profitable  dairy  breed  must 
produce  some  veal  for  the  butcher  and  come  to  the  block  herself  at  the 
end.  Our  dairy  steers  we  must  fatten  and  put  in  tolerable  flesh  for  market. 

YANKEE  "IDEE!"     It's  a  good  American  idea  anyway,  if  it  does  ask  a 
good  deal  of  the  cow. 

THE  DUAL-  A  dual-purpose  animal  lacks  the  width  and  smoothness 

PURPOSE  TYPE    of  the  beef  type,  has  more  neck,  more  leg,  narrower 

withers  and  puts  on  less  flesh  than  does  the  beef;  but 

it  is  smoother  (meat  more  even),  less  angular  and  tends  more  to  flesh  than 
does  the  dairy  type.  During  the  milking  period  the  dual-purpose  animal 
often  loses  flesh  to  a  noticeable  degree;  but  after  drying  off  it  tends  to 
regain  its  beef  losses.  But,  of  the  so-called  dual-purpose  breeds,  we  classify 
each  individual  specimen  according  to  whether  it  tends  more  to  beef  or  to 
the  dairy  type.  Given  a  dual-purpose  breed,  for  instance,  Red  Poll,  Short- 
horn, Devon,  .Brown  Swiss,  etc.,  it  becomes  a  matter  of  judging  whether 
the  individual  tends  to  (1)  beef  or  (2)  dairy  type. 

THE  SHORTHORN      We've  had  a  deal  to  say  about  this  breed  already, 
where  it  belongs  according  to  breeding  science — 

high  up  among  beef  breeds.  But  here  she  comes  the  Shorthorn  of  milking 
strain,  and  heads  the  list  for  the  man  who  has  a  small  farm  and  wants  a 
thoroughly  practical  cow.  Hence  we  distinguish  between  the  fat  Shorthorn, 
that  is  beef  animal,  and  the  dairy  Shorthorn,  which  certainly,  if  actions 
count,  behaves  pretty  much  like  an  ideal  dual-purpose  cow.  Short  horns 
have  made  some  high  tests.  They  are  extremely  popular  because  so  adapt- 
able to  various  conditions;  but  they  should  not  be  selected  for  hard  winter 
climates  if  expected  to  be  out  on  range. 

THE  RED  POLLED     The  Red  Polled  is  a  breed  rather  inclined  to  beef, 
as  will  be  seen  on  page  138,  but  they  have  long  been 

familiar  in  this  country  as  a  dual-purpose  breed.  In  fact  "Muley"  (or  polled) 
cows  of  a  red  color  have  been  common  in  the  United  States  ever  since 
Colonial  times.  Their  original  home  was  in  the  eastern  part  of  England. 
In  some  respects  they  are  our  truest  form  of  dual-purpose  animal.  Their 
milk  flow  is  fairly  full  during  lactation;  and  then  on  drying  off  they  easily 
fatten.  In  most  of  the  dairy  or  beef  points  they  easily  rank  very  fair, 
which  for  a  dual-purpose  animal  means  very  good  indeed.  They  have 
rather  less  dairy  temperament  than  the  Shorthorns.  In  milk  production 
at  the  Pan-American  test  (1901)  they  took  fifth  place  among  the  contestants. 


DUAL-PURPOSE  BREEDS 133 

They  test  about  3.5  percent  butter-fat,  with  higher  performance  of  indi- 
vidual stars.  Red  Polls  are  useful  for  crossing  or  grading,  and  are  very 
prepotent  for  their  red  color,  the  polled  head.  This  is  important,  for 
the  polled  head  is  an  improvement  when  grading  a  horned  herd.  It  is 
especially  important  as  a  beef  consideration,  as  is  shown  by  the  strong 
preference  for  hornless  cattle — perhaps  as  there  is  less  liability  to  accident 
in  shipping. 

THE  DEVON  The  Devon  breed  is  one  of  the  oldest.  Its  home  is  Devon 
or  the  neighboring  county  of  Somerset,  England.  It  prob- 
ably comes  from  a  small  type  breed  of  ancient  Britain.  Devons  were  first 
introduced  into  America  in  1817,  and  have  grown  very  popular  as  active 
grazers  on  range  or  pasture.  Their  meat  quality  is  good,  though  they  are 
small  in  size.  From  the  dairy  view,  they  have  considerable  credit  in  butter- 
fat,  and  most  individuals  come  up  to  the  test.  There  are  practically  no 
remarkable  individual  performances  in  this  breed.  The  Devon  is  beautiful 
to  look  at — deerlike,  refined.  Its  color  is  a  bright  red,  with  occasionally 
white  on  the  udder.  There  are  two  types,  the  North  and  the  South  Devon. 
Both  are  popular  and  widely  distributed;  but  the  day  of  Devon  glory  seems 
to  be  waning,  for  they  are  not  nearly  so  well  thought  of  as  in  former  days. 

BROWN  SWISS  Swiss  cattle  are  also  of  two  kinds:  the  well  known 
Brown  Swiss,  and  the  Switzerland — an  even  more  popu- 
lar variety  called  Simmenthal,  or  spotted  kine.  Only  the  Brown  Schwyzer 
have  been  bred  and  imported  into  this  country.  These  Brown  Swiss  are  a 
hardy  type,  good  Alpine  climbers;  in  their  own  country  browzing  at  the 
high  altitude  grazing  line  during  the  summer,  in  winter  descending  to  the 
sheltered  valleys  and  lowlands,  and  requiring  comfortable  quarters.  They 
are  very  ancient  cattle,  without  a  doubt;  but  in  this  country  date  only  from 
1869.  Since  then  systematic  attention  has  been  given  to  their  breeding  and 
importation,  but  they  have  not  yet  become  popular.  In  form,  Brown  Swiss 
suggest  the  beef  type,  yet  they  are  slow  maturing.  Cows  reach  1300  Ibs. 
to  1400  Ibs.  at  maturity;  males  run  1500  to  2000.  The  udder  is  generally 
of  good  size,  with  teats  and  milk  veins  prominent.  In  the  Pan-American 
Dairy  Test  referred  to  (1901)  they  ranked  third.  The  percent  of  butter-fat 
is  only  fair,  being  3.30  on  the  average,  but  is  excellent  for  cheese  making, 
and  has  sent  the  fame  of  Swiss  cheeses  around  the  world.  They  are  adapt- 
able to  mountain  conditions,  but  have  never  been  really  tried  out  on  our 
western  ranges.  Of  good  animal  vigor,  the  breed  is  excellent  for  giving 
new  hardiness  to  a  herd.  It  would  be  just  the  cross  to  use  with  a  grade 
dairy  herd — say  of  Guernsey  or  Jersey  characteristics — to  raise  the  beef 
value. 

RAISING  VEAL  Whether  or  not  we  believe  in  dual-purpose,  there  is, 
AND  BABY  BEEF  as  explained  in  the  beginning,  a  beef  view  to  every 
cow;  and  any  dairy  region  must  to  some  extent  con- 
cern itself  with  raising  marketable  calves.  For  baby  beef,  i.  e.,  early  ma- 
tured beef,  quickly  forced  and  fattened,  there  is  a  plain  advantage  in  timing 
calves  for  fall,  when  with  skim  milk  and  grain  and  a  little  proper  roughage, 
they  can  get  through  the  winter  nicely  until  pastures  are  ready  in  the  spring. 
On  the  other  hand,  a  calf  brought  up  on  milk  and  grass  during  the  favorable 
summer  season,  is  pretty  sure  to  have  a  setback  when  put  into  winter 
quarters.  When  not  wanted  for  baby  beef,  it  is  just  as  well  to  have  the 
calves  in  the  spring,  as  is  usually  preferred  by  dairymen.  But  with  warm 
barns  and  ample  dairy  ration,  the  fall  calf  brings  full  winter  milk  supply, 
and  that's  a  big  advantage.  Compare  what  was  said  on  this  head  page  127. 


134 CONKEY'S  STOCK   BOOK 

under  Dairy.  Raising  of  baby  beef  is  something  of  a  specialty.  As  already 
indicated,  it  takes  a  good  breed  and  "good  grade  of  good  breed"  to  come 
out  with  baby  beef,  forcing  the  calves  right  along  to  "maturity"  or  market 
beef  at  the  age  of  one  or  two  years.  It's  clearly  a  problem  for  feeding. 
The  whole  system  is  carefully  outlined  in  the  important  section  on  Feeds 
and  Feeding. 

THE  PROBLEM     Briefly,  the  problem  is — How  to  cheat  nature  out  of 

STATED  four  years;  for  nature,  old  slow-gait  spendthrift,  wants 

five   years   to   develop   a    1000   Ib.   steer.     To  get   that 

weight  in  one  year  you  must  feed  way  beyond  the  normal  requirement; 
and  at  the  same  time  keep  the  animal's  health  and  vigor  for  continued 
growing.  It  is  for  just  such  conditions  that  we  advise  the  more  or  less 
regular  use  of  Conkey's  Stock  Tonic  in  the  daily  ration.  This  Stock  Tonic 
is  not  in  any  sense  a  food;  but  it  is  a  tonic,  corrective,  alterant  and  bracer, 
which  will  keep  the  organs  in  good  function  during  the  forcing  process. 
In  addition,  the  tonic  is  treated  with  certain  condimental  and  other  "salts" 
to  savor  the  feed,  helping  the  natural  appetite  so  that  the  forcing  ration 
will  be  accepted  and  digested.  But  read  careful  directions,  page  ,  and 
also  the  paragraph  on  appetite  in  the  section  on  Feeds  and  Feeding. 

It  is  a  profitable  thing  to  master,  this  feeding  for  baby  beef.  Heifers 
fattened  for  beef  at  one  to  two  years  bring  as  much  per  pound  as  steers. 
Besides,  there  is  the  extra  short  feeding  period  for  both  heifers  and  steers, 
as  against  the  three  years'  feeding  period  for  full  grown  beef  cattle.  The 
stockman  saves  feed  stuff  and  gets  more  turnovers  for  his  capital  invested. 
Every  dollar  in  baby  beef  keeps  busy  season  after  season.  Needless  to 
say  it  is  this  nimble  exercise  of  turning  it  over  that  gives  growth  to  a 
dollar. 

IV.    Beef  Breeds 

Good-bye,  Cattle  King! 

Guess  it's  better  for  all  of  us  the  old  extravagant  days  of  the 
frontier  range  are  gone  forever,  the  land  now  cut  up  in  improved  allot- 
ments, and  the  beef  herds  gathered  in  smaller  compass.  There's  a  chance 
for  more  of  us  in  the  business,  and  a  better  show  for  the  dollars.  We 
may  lose  something  in  long  horn  and  cowboy  equipment;  but  we  can 
still  get  that,  when  we  want  it,  in  moving  picture  shows  and  Eastern 
melodrama. 

This  is  the  day  of  concentration  of  time,  energy  and  money:  more 
cattle  in  smaller  space;  more  beef  per  head  of  cattle;  quicker,  better  finish 
for  market;  more  expensive  feed  and  more  of  it;  but  bigger,  better,  safer 
profits. 

Any  kind  of  cattle,  with  any  kind  of  horns,  and  any  length  of  leg,  were 
utilized  under  the  old  system  of  raising  beef  for  market.  But  today  the 
market  demand  is  higher.  A  steer  must  grow  right  along  and  be  quick 
about  it.  We  need  the  money.  He  must  have  plenty  of  good  high-price 
cuts,  and  not  so  much  cheap  neck,  etc.  He  shouldn't  walk  on  stilts — these 
long  leg  bones  increase  the  percent  of  waste  as  "butcher's  offal." 


BEEF   BREEDS 


135 


In  the  old  days  it  took  five  or  six  years  to 
grow  a  steer  to  all  the  growth  he  would  get 
and  in  the  end  the  quality  of  the  meat  cuts  was 
only  fair.  There  was  no  uniformity  in  the 
animals  on  which  the  buyer  could  base  his  esti- 
mate. Pasture  was  cheap,  and  there  was  prac- 
tically no  care  of  stock,  and  but  small  expense 
for  the  few  cowboys  and  foremen  needed.  Any 
sort  of  accident  might  happen — disease,  drought 
or  storm — and  now  way  to  guard  against  it. 
On  overcrowded  ranges  you  saw  cattle  die 
by  the  hundreds.  In  time  of  drought  on  the 
plains  they  went  down  by  the  thousand.  The 
disasters  of  1884  were  the  limit  of  such  specu- 
lative endurance;  moreover  the  growing  sheep 
industry  helped  to  overcrowd  the  ranges;  and 
a  new  system  of  cattle  raising  began  in  this  country. 


Spanish  ancestor  of  long:horn  cattle 
of  Western  plain 


WHAT  WAS  Better  stock,  better  care  and  attention;  more  sys- 

THE  NEW  SYSTEM?   tematic  feeding;   better  market  condition;  better 
market    prices — these    points    make    up    the    new 
system. 

Of  course,  beef  is  higher — why  shouldn't  it  be? 

Of  course,  more  is  needed,  just  about  a  third  more  is  an  absolute  neces- 
sity for  scant  home  consumption.  The  number  of  beef  cattle  in  proportion  to 
population  is  continually  decreasing — decreasing  is  a  slow-gaited  word — 
jumping  down  the  track  is  more  nearly  expressive. 

Fact  is,  we  are  far  short  of  our  own  needs.     Yet  the   United   States 
ranks  second  in  its  possession  of  cattle— we  own  71,000,000  of  the  430,000,000 
which  make  the  world  figure.     Our  population  is  99,000,000. 
No  wonder  there's  not  enough  beef  to  go  around! 

If  you  are  thinking  of  going  into  the  beef  business,  take  a  long  look 
around  at  the  beef  breeds  now  developed,  and  you'll  certainly  find  some 
wonderful  "critters." 

To  begin  with,  a  beef  animal 
should  have  just  as  little  leg  as  is 
consistent  with  getting  around  for 
health  and  convenience.  You  know 
how  it  is  with  sheep;  and  that  it's 
the  low  set  mutton  maker  that 
dresses  out  to  best  advantage. 
With  beef,  too,  you  find  a  low 
broad  deep-hung  body,  smooth  and 
evenly  covered,  not  meaty  in 
patches.  The  outline  is  rectangu- 
lar or  "blocky."  The  back  is 
broad,  with  back  and  ribs  espe- 
cially well  covered;  short  neck,  for 
this  neck  meat  is  cheap  and  the  less  you  have  to  raise  the  better.  That 
blocky,  rectangular  outline  is  the  main  thing,  the  "parallelogram  shape" 
with  back  and  belly  lines  in  straight  parallel. 

SIZE      Size  is  not  so  important  as  quality  and  finish.    This  is  a  type  more 
economical  to  produce  for  the  feeder  and  with  less  waste  to  the 
butcher.     In  fact,  we  are  all  satisfied;  for  it  means  better  meat  for  the 
consumer. 


136     CQNKEY'S  STOCK  BOOK 

SHAPE     Shape  is  the  important  thing.     A  compact  square  shape,  in  fact, 
a  block  is  the  thing  to  look  for;  ribs  well  sprung,  loins  wide  and 
deep,  thighs  plump  and  meaty;  in  short,  room  for  choice  cuts.    It  must  not 
be  leggy. 

QUALITY     Quality  counts.     Look  for  fine  bone,  smooth  joints,  delicate 
horns  (if  any),  delicate  ears;  chief  of  all,  a  hide  that  is  fairly 
thick  and  protective,  but  with  hair  fine  and  silky.     Hair,  you  know,  is  gen- 
erally taken  to  indicate  quality. 

BEEF   BREEDS       The   cattle   that   come   up   to   these   requirements    are 
chiefly  the  Shorthorn  or  Durham,  our  old  dual-purpose 
friend,  and  the  Hereford,  Galloway,  Devon  and  Aberdeen-Angus. 

WHICH  Suit  yourself  which  is  best,  i.  e.,  best  for  you.  It  would  be  a 
IS  BEST?  waste  of  time  to  claim  for  any  one  of  these  fine  types  relative 
superiority.  For  early  maturing  qualities  and  general  good 
beefing  the  Aberdeen-Angus  takes  the  lead,  according  to  some  thinking. 
You  know  it  was  the  Angus  breeds  that  topped  the  show  at  the  1910  Inter- 
national in  Chicago.  But  the  highest  priced  steer  ever  sold  in  this  country 
was  a  Hereford;  while  the  grand  champion  prize  in  individual  steer  classes 
at  the  International  1907  went  to  a  prize  Shorthorn,  and  the  same  breed 
took  the  reserve  championship  a  year  later. 

When  you've  narrowed  down  to  a  few  breeds,  better  give  up  trying  to 
get  it  down  any  farther. 

Every  breeder  or  owner  has  his  favorite  best  breed,  just  as  he  has 
belief  in  his  favorite  best  automobile.  It  is  hard  to  estimate  popularity,  but 
if  the  Herd  Registers  are  the  test,  then  the  Shorthorn  must  be  the  most 
popular  of  all  the  beef  cattle  breeds. 

SHORTHORNS  Shorthorns  were  first  imported  in  1790;  some  claim  a  few 
years  earlier  even.  But  their  real  popularity  dates  from 
about  1835,  when  very  large  importations  were  made;  and  the  stock  was 
generally  distributed.  Shorthorns  are  of  good  beef  type  and  mature  at  30 
months,  being  fully  grown  at  four  years.  While  of  medium  hardiness  and 
grazing  ability,  they  do  very  well  under  all  conditions  of  range  and  climate. 
They  are  good  milkers,  as  we  have  seen  in  the  description  under  dual- 
purpose  cattle.  The  home  of  the  Shorthorn  was  originally  the  counties  of 
York,  Durham  and  Northumberland  in  Northeast  England.  In  fact,  they 
were  often  called  Durhams.  In  color  they  are  red,  or  red  with  white,  some- 
times roan,  sometimes  all  white.  In  the  red  or  roan  they  are  often  variously 
shaded.  As  with  all  dual-purpose  cattle,  there  are  fat  Shorthorns  and  dairy 
Shorthorns,  favoring  distinctly  one  type  or  the  other. 

HEREFORD  The  Hereford  is  certainly  a  kingly  breed,  profitable  for  beef 
production  and  next  to  the  Shorthorn  in  popularity  when 
the  Herd  Registers  are  taken  as  the  basis.  The  Hereford  was  developed 
in  England  as  far  back  as  1627.  The  Hereford  has  made  more  improvements 
over  here  than  any  of  the  beef  breeds,  with  the  possible  exception  of  the 
Galloway.  Breeders  have  especially  set  themselves  the  task  of  correcting 
the  throatiness  or  dewlap  and  also  have  greatly  improved  the  rump  and 
thighs  for  market.  Herefords  are  big  cattle,  the  males  running  2500  Ibs. 
mature,  the  cows  1500.  In  addition  they  weigh  heavy  for  size,  and  show 
up  well  in  thick  marbled  cuts  of  meat.  They  mature  very  early.  They 
actually  are  the  best  of  all  breeds  for  "baby  beef."  But  they  often  fail  in 


BEEF   BREEDS 137 

milk  and  their  calves  have  to  be  "nursed."  This  is  hardly  a  serious  fault, 
however,  in  face  of  their  other  good  qualities;  and  especially  as  rhany 
believe  skim-milk  fed  calves  are  better  anyway  for  quick  fattening,  as 
their  early  handling  and  training  stand  them  in  good  stead.  "Baby  beef" 
is  a  specialty,  not  only  of  the  grower  but  of  the  breed.  It  always  requires 
pure  beef  breeds,  and  good  grades  of  breed.  When  you  get  hold  of  a  little 
Hereford  steer  that  is  carefully  bred,  it  doesn't  take  him  very  long  to 
become  literally  a  "living  block  of  beef."  Herefords  are  red  in  color,  with 
white  face,  white  mark  from  throat  along  lower  part  of  the  body,  and  white 
tip  on  tail.  The  breed  is  a  hardy  one;  more  so  than  the  Shorthorn,  and  also 
good  rustlers  on  range. 


Champion  Angus  Cow— The  kind  that  makes  juicy  beef 

ABERDEEN-ANGUS     The  Aberdeen-Angus  probably  ranks  third  in  popu- 
larity,   if   we    still    estimate   by   the    Register;    but 

what  happened  at  1910  International  may  make  new  history  for  beef  breeds. 
Anyway,  if  you  consider  the  strictly  hornless*  beef  cattle,  the  Aberdeen- 
Angus,  is  positively  first.  The  Angus  comes  from  a  damp  and  cold  climate 
and  is  accustomed  to  a  hilly  or  mountainous  country.  Their  original  home 
was  the  highlands  of  Northeastern  Scotland,  the  county  of  Aberdeen.  The 
Angus  is  a  good  grazer,  as  would  be  expected  from  his  history  and  place 
of  origin.  In  quality  of  beef  they  rank  with  the  Galloways,  the  best  of  all. 
In  fact,  they  resemble  the  Galloway  in  many  points,  though  better  milkers. 
They  have  been  bred  principally  for  meat  since  their  introduction  to  this 
country  in  1873,  although  in  Scotland  they  are  encouraged  as  milkers.  The 
Angus  is  smaller  than  either  Shorthorn  or  Hereford;  but  for  size  is  heavier 
than  any  other  breed.  The  rise  in  popularity  has  been  great  since  the 
introduction  of-  the  breed  in  this  country,  as  they  have  been  found  very 
useful  in  crossing.  In  fact,  the  Angus  is  very  prepotent  and  when  used  as 
a  cross  73%  to  90%  of  the  offspring  are  characteristically  black  and  horn- 
less. This  hornless  feature  gives  them  an  advantage  with  buyers,  as  all 
hornless  cattle  are  considered  better  purchases  live  weight,  as  thev  suffer 
less  injury  in  shipping. 


138 CONKEY'S  STOCK  BOOK 

GALLOWAY  The  Galloway  is  also  hornless  like  the  Angus.  Also  like 
the  good  Scotch  breed  they  are  famed  for  excellent  beef, 
and  for  good  Scotch  hardiness  on  range  with  considering  rustling  ability. 
In  size  it  is  even  smaller  than  the  Angus.  Galloways  likewise  have  remark- 
able vigor  in  breeding,  and  Galloway  bulls  can  be  relied  on  for  95%  to  full 
100%  transmission  of  type.  This  is  so,  even  when  crossed  with  common 
cattle,  even  those  that  are  horned  or  indifferent  in  the  matter  of  color.  In 
time  past  the  Galloway  has  been  criticised  for  flatness  of  rib,  that  is,  lack 
of  spring  to  the  barrel.  Another  criticism  was  a  lack  of  readiness  to 
respond  at  once  to  generous  keep.  These  faults  have  been  very  much 
reduced  the  past  quarter  century  by  careful  breeding,  so  that  the  Galloway 
now  takes  high  rank  unchallenged.  It  is  true  they  are  still  slow  to  mature, 
and  slow  to  fatten,  and  still  a  little  flat  in  the  rib.  But  their  bodies  are 
long,  close  to  the  ground,  and  they  have  good  rumps  and  hindquarters. 
This  breed  is  hornless,  not  even  having  any  marks  or  "scurs,"  as  the 
Scotchmen  call  them.  The  head  is  rather  more  flat  than  peaked,  and  the 


Devon  Sussex       .  Galloway 

ears  are  well  back  and  point  straight  up.  The  most  noticeable  point  in 
appearance  is  the  beautiful  long,  wavy  black  hair,  which  makes  the  char- 
acteristic and  valuable  Galloway  hide.  Black  has  been  thought  to  show 
greater  hardiness  in  the  breed,  and  breeders  have  tried  to  fix  this  black 
color  in  the  Galloway.  White  is  now  considered  a  disqualification,  though 
brown  or  reddish  tint  in  the  hair  is  thought  rather  favorable;  in  fact,  is 
considered  a  mark  of  pure  blood.  Galloway  hides  are  popular  as  they 
deserve,  and  expensive  as  they  are  popular.  Some  even  compare  them 
favorably  with  the  famous  buffalo,  for  use  in  robes,  rugs,  etc.  As  said 
above,  the  breed  is  not  over  strong  in  milking,  but  Galloway  cows  can 
usually  take  care  of  their  own  calves.  The  best  known  herds  are  now  in 
Indiana,  Illinois,  Missouri,  Iowa  and  Minnesota.  The  breed  came  to  us 
originally  over  the  northern  frontier  in  Michigan  (1870)  through  Scotch 
settlers  in  Canada. 

DEVON  The  Devon  breed,  while  one  of  the  earliest  brought  to  this 
country,  since  we  find  them  in  the  old  colonies,  have  never 
reached  the  popularity  they  deserve  as  beef  animals.  Maybe  this  is  because 
they  do  not  come  up  to  modern  weights  for  beef  cattle,  and  are  not  so  easy 
to  fatten.  They  certainly  make  good  beef,  what  there  is  of  it.  The  slim 
and  beautiful  horns  of  the  bright  red  Devon  cow  (often  she  is  called 
"Ruby")  are  fine  in  the  landscape,  but  as  said  before,  buyers  of  beef  are 
always  influenced  against  horned  cattle.  The  Devon  has  a  good  record  as 
a  milker,  for  which  compare  page  —  under  Dual-Purpose. 

RED  POLL    The  Red  Poll  (crossed  to  some  extent  with  Shorthorns  and 

West  Highland  cattle)  was  introduced  in  the  United  States 

from   the   east  coast  of   England   in   1879,   and   is  very  useful  for   grading 

native    stock   for   better   beef   type.      In    size    Red    Polls    are    smaller   than 


BEEF   BREEDS 139 

Shorthorns.  They  mature  early  and  graze  well.  They  might  claim  attention 
for  dual-purpose,  as  they  produce  a  good  quantity  of  milk.  In  color  they 
are  bright  red,  with  white  tip  on  tail  and  udder.  See  also  under  Dual- 
Purpose. 

POLLED  DURHAM     Polled    Durhams    are    another    cross    breed,    being 
Shorthorn  stock  bred  hornless,  the  result  of  special 

attention  in  Western  Ohio.  They  are  essentially  the  same  as  Shorthorns, 
their  pure  sires,  though  improving  in  milking  qualities.  As  beef  producers 
they  rank  well.  They  are  a  very  practical  type,  and  are  now  distributed 
pretty  thoroughly  from  the  Mississippi  to  the  far  west,  and  are  increasing 
in  popularity. 

SUSSEX     Another  breed  distributed  in  our  central  valley  is  the   Sussex, 

imported  in  1884  but  hardly  yet  established  as  popular,  although 

we  find  them  in   Indiana,  Tennessee,  Oklahoma  and  Texas.     The   Sussex 


Aberdeen  Angus  Hereford  Shorthorn 

are  a  large  beef  breed,  in  form  much  like  the  Hereford,  but  in  color  red. 
Thus  they  have  the  blocky,  well  sprung,  capacious  body  of  a  true  beef  type. 
Unfortunately  they  are  horned,  which  is  against  them  for  shipping.  In 
their  original  Sussex  home  in  England  the  breed  was  much  used  for  draft 
and  farm  purposes.  They  are  early  maturing,  though  not  as  early  as  the 
Hereford;  but  in  grazing  qualities  they  equal  that  breed.  They  would 
certainly  do  well  in  the  Mississippi  Valley;  and  enterprising  stockmen  are 
uniting  to  increase  their  popularity  there.  The  Sussex  would  be  valuable 
for  crossing  on  ordinary  grade  cattle  for  beef  purposes.  They  dress  out 
at  an  unusually  high  percent.  The  following  is  averaged  from  Prof. 
Henry's  table: 

1  year weight    1452   Ibs ' drsssed   65.42% 

2  year weight    1837    Ibs dressed    68.18% 

3  year weight    2064    Ibs dressed    67.98% 

WEST   HIGHLAND    A  very  interesting  breed  is  the  West  Highland.     It- 
self  a  picturesque   type — hair   long  and   shaggy,   in 

color  maybe  brindle,  with  horns  widespread — the  West  Highland  can  easily 
be  credited  with  being  the  descendant  of  the  ancient  wild  herds  of  Great 
Britain.  This  breed  still  has  a  wonderful  hardiness,  and  can  make  a  living 
on  a  range  so  bare  and  poor  that  any  other  would  surely  starve.  They 
almost  surpass  the  Galloway  in  this  respect.  The  milk  yield  is  small,  but 
they  grow  excellent  beef.  The  animals  are  small,  averaging  900  Ibs.  for  the 
cows,  and  1200  for  steers.  They  are  hardly  suitable  for  grading  up  native 
stock;  but  a  great  many  have  been  imported  from  the  Scottish  West  High- 
lands simply  for  the  purpose  of  lending  contrast  to  our  better  known  breeds. 


140 CONKEY'S  STOCK  BOOK 

WHAT  Buyers  nowadays  discriminate  sharply  against  cattle 

BUYERS  WANT  with  horns,  on  account  of  danger  in  shipping.  Good 
advice  is  to  dehorn  your  breeds  or  select  the  hornless 
variety. 

Buyers,  too,  look  for  that  "finish  and  glisten — that  roll  to  the  hide" 
which  goes  only  with  good  quality. 

Buyers  look  to  uniform  fleshing,  no  bare  spots,  but  good  even  meaty 
covering  to  the  frame,  quickly  told  by  the  hand  as  it  runs  over  the  animal's 
back. 

A  low,  blocky  animal  that  matures  quickly  and  sells  for  high-priced 
meat  is  the  profitable  beef  type. 

An  unprofitable  feeder  has  legs  too  long,  back  too  sharp,  lines  not 
straight  and  blocky,  and  is  thinly  or  unevenly  covered  with  flesh. 

MARKET  Beef  Cattle— 900-1600  Ibs.    Prime  if  1200  to  1600  Ibs.    Baby 

CLASSES     beef  800-1000  Ibs.  one  to  two  years  of  age. 

Texas    and    Western    Range— Good    condition    and    finish. 
Usually  bought  as  "feeders"  and  finished  in  the  corn  belt. 

Butcher's  Stock — Culls  of  beef  cattle  from  feeders.  Tolerably  fat  cows, 
heifers  and  bulls  which  are  not  in  best  market  condition,  though  given  equal 
"finishing"  feed  as  high  grade  beef  animals. 

Cutters  and  Canners — Thinner  culls  from  beef  animals.  Never  choice, 
but  grade  from  inferior  to  good.  Includes  "bologna"  bulls. 

Stockers  and  Feeders — Calves,  yearlings,  two-year-olds,  called  feeders 
if  to  be  shipped  for  finishing.  900  to  1000  Ibs.  Stockers  are  18  months  or 
more,  weighing  450  to  900  Ibs. 

Veal  Calves — Graded  for  age,  weight  and  condition,  80  to  160  Ibs. 

In  all  the  foregoing,  quality  and  market  finish  are  the  first  essentials; 
but  size,  appearance  and  conformation  are  considered. 

Beware  of  the  danger  of  short  feeding.  In  the  spring  of  the  year  it 
often  pays  to  rush  the  short-fed  cattle  to  market  before  the  run  on  south- 
western grass-fed  cattle  begins.  But  as  a  rule  an  animal  fed  six  months 
will  carry  twice  as  much  fat  as  an  animal  fed  two  months,  and  will  bring 
from  75%  to  100%  more  money. 

The  whole  big  subject  of  feeding  has  to  be  worked  down  to  a  science. 
Turn  to  and  read  carefully  the  section  on  Feeds  and  Feeding,  page  20. 


West  Highland  Cow 


DISEASES  OF  CATTLE 141 

Common  Diseases  of  Cattle 

ABORTION  This  is  one  of  the  most  serious  dangers  the  stockman 
has  to  guard  against — the  cause  of  his  heaviest  losses.  "Slink- 
ing of  calves"  usually  spreads  to  the  whole  herd,  unless  properly  treated. 
The  stockman  must  be  prepared  for  this  danger  and  save  this  loss  (1)  of 
calves,  (2)  of  time  and  expense  for  resultless  breeding,  (3)  milk  flow,  for 
there  is  always  a  set-back,  (4)  danger  to  the  cow  and  loss  of  her  immediate 
value  as  a  breeder,  (5)  danger  to  the  whole  herd  through  infection. 

There  are  two  causes  of  cattle  abortion,  accidents  and  contagion.  Acci- 
dents are  such  as  come  from  slippery  or  sloping  floors,  gutters  too  deep, 
fright,  chasing  by  dogs,  railway  journeys,  smutty  or  rusty  fodder,  causing 
poisoning  from  ergot;  wrong  feed,  causing  indigestion.  Contagious  abor- 
tion is  a  germ  disease  and  spreads  from  cow  to  cow  in  the  herd,  or  the 
bull  may  carry  the  infection.  The  tendency  is  for  the  aborted  cows  to 
become  immune  but  they  still  spread  contagion  to  other  animals. 

Symptoms      If  in  the  first  three  months  of  gestation,  there  is  a  bloody  or 
mucous  discharge.     If  in  later  months,  straining,  uneasiness, 
swelling,  hot  and  sore  udders,  milk  in  udders,  etc. 

Treatment  Separate  the  affected  cow  from  the  others.  Burn  the 
offspring  and  afterbirth.  Be  on  the  safe  side  and  treat 
all  cases  as  if  they  were  contagious.''  Disinfect  thoroughly  with  a  strong 
solution  cf  Conkey's  Nox-i-cide  Dip  and  Disinfectant,  ^  pint  to  a  gallon 
of  water,  to  kill  all  germs  on  the  premises,  and  repeat  this  thorough 
disinfecting  10  days  later.  Wash  the  external  parts  of  the  affected  cow  with 
soap  and  water,  then  rinse  off  with  the  Nox-i-cide  solution,  1  part  Nox-i-cide 
Dip  and  Disinfectant  to  50  parts  water  (that  is,  5  tablespoonfuls  to  2  gallons 
of  water).  Use  from  3  to  4  pints  of  the  same  strength  solution  as  an  injec- 
tion and  keep  this  treatment  up  every  day  until  the  vaginal  discharge  stops 
and  the  appearance  of  the  lining  membrane  is  normal.  Give  a  hypo- 
dermic injection,  under  the  skin  in  the  neck  every  10  days,  using  2  drams 
of  a  3  per  cent,  carbolic  solution  (made  up  by  a  druggist  with  glycerine 
and  distilled  water).  All  authorities  agree  that  this  is  both  a^  preventive 
and  a  cure  for  abortion.  This  is  not  a  serum  and  note  this  fact:  as  yet  there 
is  no  true  "serum"  treatment  in  America,  although  experiments  are  being 
tried  with  serum  in  Denmark. 

Exercise  care  in  giving  the  hypodermic.*  Make  sure  that  the  hands 
are  thoroughly  clean  and  that  the  skin  where  the  needle  is  inserted  is 
thoroughly  clean  and  free  from  germs,  by  washing  with  Nox-i-cide  Dip 
and  Disinfectant  solution,  2  tablespoonfuls  to  a  pint  of  water.  The  syringe 
must  be  sterilized  also,  or  an  abscess  may  result  from  germ  infection. 

Prevention      Frequently  this  trouble  cap  be  avoided  by  the  following  pre- 
ventive measures: 

Disinfect  thoroughly  with  strong  Nox-i-cide  solution  (l/2  part  Nox-i- 
cide  Dip  and  Disinfectant  to  1  gallon  of  water).  With  Nox-i-cide  solution 
(4  tablespoonfuls  to  2  gallons  of  water)  wash  the  external  parts  of  all  cows 
in  the  herd  whether  known  to  be  infected  or  not;  and  every  ten  days  give 
the  carbolic  injection,  or  mix  carbolic  acid  with  the  soft  feed,  using  2 
drams  of  acid  well  diluted  with  water.  This  should  be  given  each  pregnant 
cow  every  other  night  during  every  other  fortnight,  from  the  beginning  of 
the  third  month  to  the  end  of  the  sixth  or  seventh  month.  Also  flush  out 
the  sheath  of  the  bull  with  the  Nox-i-cide  solution,  half  the  strength  of 


142 CONKEY'S  STOCK  BOOK 

above,  after  each  service.     Germs  of  contagious  abortion  can  live  fully  7 
months  in  a  stable,  and  at  least  twice  that  in  the  vagina  of  the  cow. 

A  course  of  Conkey's  Stock  Tonic  given  strictly  according  to  directions 
will  put  more  resistance  in  your  stock  and  act  as  a  general  preventive  of 
abortion.  Stock  Tonic  will  correct  faults  of  digestion  and  thus  prevent  the 
danger  of  abortion  from  that  cause. 

ANAEMIA  Symptoms  are  pale,  bloodless  condition  of  the  mucous  mem- 
brane; tongue  soft;  weak  debilitated  condition,  fast  breath- 
ing; usually  the  hair  is  harsh  and  dry.  This  trouble  may  follow  some  other 
disease  or  may  come  from  poor  food,  foul  stables,  bad  ventilation  or  any- 
thing that  will  rob  the  blood  of  vital  elements.  Lice  or  other  parasites  may 
cause  it. 

Treatment  Correct  the  cause  of  the  disease.  See  that  the  animal  has 
good  feed  and  mix  with  the  regular  feed  Conkey's  Stock 
Tonic  according  to  directions.  This  is  tonic,  alterative  treatment,  helping 
all  vital  organs  to  do  their  work  and  increasing  the  blood  supply.  If  lice 
are  found,  treat  with  Nox-i-cide  Dip  and  Disinfectant  according  to  direc- 
tions, or  use  Conkey's  Lice  Powder. 

ANTHRAX  OR        A  malignant,   extremely  contagious   blood   disease   due 

CHARBON  to  a  bacillus,  which  thrives  in  rich,  moist  soils  which 

have  become  infected  from  animals  that  have  died  from 

anthrax.     It  affects  overfed  cattle,  sheep,  horses,  and  sometimes  hogs.     The 
disease  is  dangerous  to  man  also,  though  much  less  fatal. 

Symptoms  The  animal  goes  down  suddenly  with  fever,  loss  of  appetite, 
quick  breathing,  rapid  but  feeble  pulse;  swellings  appear, 
sometimes  hot  and  painful  at  the  start  but  becoming  cold  and  painless. 
Sometimes  there  are  eruptions,  boils,  etc.  on  the  body;  hemorrhage  of 
bowels  and  bladder,  etc.,  also  blood  from  nostril  and  mouth.  The  swellings 
do  not  crepitate,  or  crackle,  when  touched  (which  is  one  difference  between 
Anthrax  and  Black  Leg).  Post  mortem  examination  will  show  the  spleen 
enlarged,  which  is  another  difference  between  this  disease  and  the  very 
similar  one  called  Black  Leg. 

Treatment  Not  practical,  on  account  of  the  extreme  danger  to  attendants 
or  to  other  animals  in  the  neighborhood,  as  infection  can 
come  through  flies,  mosquitoes,  etc.,  or  contact  with  the  diseased  body,  or 
breathing  air  in  its  neighborhood.  Prevention  is  the  only  treatment,  and 
consists  of  burning  the  anthrax  carcass  or  burying  it  in  quicklime,  removing 
the  herd  from  the  dangerous  pasture,  draining  the  pasture;  thorough 
disinfecting  of  the  herd  with  Nox-i-cide  Dip  and  Disinfectant  solution  (2 
tablespoonfuls  to  a  gallon  of  water),  also  thorough  disinfection  and  white- 
washing of  the  premises.  Since  the  very  fat,  overfed  animals  are  the  ones 
that  succumb  quickest  to  the  disease  on  account  of  the  excess  of  waste 
matter  in  the  blood,  it  is  necessary  to  guard  against  bad  blood  by  the  use  of 
Conkey's  Stock  Tonic  when  animals  are  fed  heavily.  This  keeps  up  digestive 
power,  stimulates  the  walls  of  the  blood  vessels,  increasing  circulation  and 
cleansing  the  blood  from  waste  and  impurities  and  giving  the  animal  healthy 
resistance  to  blood  disorders. 

BLACK  LEG          Black  Leg  is  similar  to  Anthrax,  but  affects  young  ani- 
mals only.     There  is  no  enlargement  of  the  spleen  as  in 
Anthrax,  but  there  are  swellings  under  the  skin  on  thighs,  neck,  shoulders, 


DISEASES  OF   CATTLE 


143 


breast,  hock  joints,  flank  or  rump;  and  when  these  are  pressed  they  give 
out  a  peculiar  crackling  sound  on  account  of  the  gas  accumulated  by  the 
diseased  condition  of  the  blood.  Death  comes  quickly  and  after  death  the 
diseased  place  shows  a  dark  color,  although  the  blood  is  not  dark.  This 
black  color  gives  the  name  Black  Leg  or  Black  Quarter. 


Treatment  is  not  practical,  because  of  the  danger  from  infection  as  in 
the  case  of  Anthrax,  but  the  same  preventive  measures 
described  under  Anthrax  can  be  applied  to  this  disease,  disinfecting  with 
Conkey's  Nox-i-cide  Dip  and  Disinfectant,  changing  pasture,  etc.  Separate 
the  well  animals  from  the  sick,  give  each  a  6  ounce  dose  of  Epsom  salts 
to  clear  the  system,  and  feed  on  easily  digested  food  for  at  least  two 
weeks,  with  Conkey's  Stock  Tonic  mixed  with  the  feed  to  insure  proper 
working  of  bowels  and  bladder  and  to  rid  the  body  of  all  impurities 
generated.  Disinfect  the  whole  premises  thoroughly,  remembering  that 
there  is  extreme  danger  in  the  dust  itself,  which  often  harbors  infection. 
Considerable  success  has  followed  vaccine  treatment,  and  many  state  colleges 
or  experimental  stations  send  out  Black  Leg  vaccine  direct  to  stockmen  on 
application.  They  offer  to  do  this  at  a  nominal  charge  for  the  actual  cost 
of  preparing  the  vaccine.  It  can  also  be  had  from  the  U.  S.  Department  of 
Agriculture,  Washington,  D.  C.  Address  Chief  of  the  Bureau  of  Animal 
Industry. 

BLOAT  OR     This    is    an    accumulation 
HOVEN  of  gas  in  the  first  stom- 

ach or  paunch.  The 
cause  is  usually  a  sudden  change  of  food, 
especially  an  agreeable  change,  such  as 
from  dry  to  green  fodder.  Too  much 
grain,  or  indigestion  from  any  cause 
may  produce  bloat.  But  the  most  corn- 
man  cause  is  grazing  on  wet  grass,  al- 
falfa or  clover,  in  warm  weather,  when 
fermentation  takes  place  quickly. 

Symptoms  Swelling  of  the  left  side, 
over  the  paunch.  Restless- 
ness, anxiety;  the  animal  stops  feeding, 
breathes  hard  with  nostrils  distended. 
Relief  must  come  quickly  or  the  animal  will  die  from  rupture. 


Treatment  Act  quickly.  A 
stream  of  cold  water 
thrown  on  the  left  flank  will  often 
start  muscular  contraction,  expell- 
ing the  gas  naturally.  Rubbing  the 
left  side  vigorously  will  sometimes 
serve  the  same  purpose.  But  if 
the  swelling  is  very  great  and  gets 
worse,  the  quickest  and  best  way  is  to  use  the  trocar  and  canula  (a  stylet 
or  dagger  in  a  hollow  tube  sheath,  see  cut).  Plunge  this  instrument  into 
the  upper  part  of  the  swelling  between  the  last  rib  and  the 
angle  of  the  haunch,  about  a  hand's  breadth  down  from  the 


Trocar  and  canula 


144 CONKEY'S  STOCK  BOOR 

transverse  lumbar  process  (see  point  marked  with  cross  in  the 
cut)  over  the  paunch  or  rumen.  When  you  pull  out  the.  trocar  this  leaves 
the  hollow  canula  in  place,  through  which  the  gas  can  escape.  Many 
farmers  use  a  long  thin-bladed  knife  instead  of  the  trocar,  but  unless  the 
cut  is  held  open  with  a  quill  it  will  close  as  soon  as  some  of  the  gas  has 
escaped  and  the  skin  relaxes.  Remember,  if  you  have  no  trocar  and  canula 
handy,  in  an  emergency  you  can  use  a  knife  for  the  trocar  and  the  long 
spout  of  the  oil-can  from  the  mower  for  the  canula,  of  course,  cleaning 
and  sterilizing  both  by  dipping  in  a  strong  Nox-i-cide  solution.  For  medi- 
cal treatment,  give  a  pound  of  Epsom  salts,  or  2  ounces  of  turpentine 
in  1  pint  of  raw  linseed  oil,  or  2  ounces  hyposulphite  of  soda  and  1  ounce 
aromatic  spirits  of  ammonia  in  1  quart  of  water,  any  of  which  will  prevent 
further  fermentation.  Remember  prompt  action  is  what  saves  cattle  when 
bloated.  After  the  acute  symptoms  have  been  relieved  put  the  cattle  on 
regular  Stock  Tonic  treatment. 

BLOODY  Usually  caused  by  some  accident  or  injury  to  the  udder,  bruis- 
MILK  ing,  or  chilling  from  resting  on  a  cold  floor.  Sometimes  the 

cause  is  tuberculosis. 

Symptoms      Sometimes    the    milk    is    streaked    with    blood,    sometimes    it 
shows  a  sediment  of  blood  after  standing. 

Treatment  If  not  tubercular  (that  is  if  the  cow  does  not  respond  to  the 
tuberculin  test),  treat  as  follows:  Milk  carefully,  then  bathe  the 
udder  in  cold  water  and  apply  Conkey's  Bag  Remedy,  rubbing  it  in  gently. 
Keep  the  cow  for  a  while  on  feed  in  which  Conkey's  Stock  Tonic  has  been 
mixed  according  to  directions.  Have  plenty  of  bedding  in  the  stall  so  that 
the  udder  will  not  be  chilled  or  bruised  when  the  cow  is  lying  down,  and  see 
that  the  cow  next  to  her  cannot  step  on  the  udder,  as  this  is  a  frequent 
cause  of  injury. 

CASTRATING  This  operation  is  best  performed  between  the  second  and 
fourth  weeks.  Conkey's  Nox-i-cide  Dip  and  Disinfectant 
in  a  2  per  cent,  solution,  1  tablespoonful  to  1  quart  of  water,  should  be  used 
to  sterilize  the  knife,  and  also  to  wash  the  scrotum  before  cutting.  After 
the  operation  dust  on  Conkey's  Healing  Powder  according  to  directions. 
If  in  fly  season  protect  the  calf  by  spraying  it  with  Conkey's  Fly  Knocker 
or  keep  the  calf  in  a  dark  stable  until  the  wound  has  healed  over.  Care- 
fully wash  and  sterilize  the  knife  after  each  operation. 

CATARRH —  A  common  ailment,  from  change  of  weather  or  any 
COLD,  etc.  depressing  condition.  Especially  liable  to  happen  after 

calving. 

Symptoms  Usually  starts  with  a  chill,  followed  by  fever  and  general 
indications  of  cold — a  rough,  dry  nose  is  followed  by  a  watery 
secretion,  later  turning  into  a  thick  mucous  discharge.  Almost  always  there 
is  some  digestive  disorder;  the  animal  loses  appetite  and  suffers  with  consti- 
pation or  looseness  of  the  bowels.  Eyes  are  swollen  and  inflamed  and  very 
painful. 

Treatment  If  possible  separate  from  the  rest  of  the  herd  and  in  any  case 
use  extra  care  in  disinfecting,  using  Conkey's  Nox-i-cide  Dip 
and  Disinfectant  according  to  directions.  If  constipated,  clean  out  the  system 
with  Epsom  salts,  dose  8  ounces  to  1  pound.  Put  the  cow  on  easily  digested 
feed,  and  use  Conkey's  Stock  Tonic  with  each  feed,  to  tone  up  the  system 


DISEASES  OF  CATTLE 145 

and  keep  it  open.  Give  internally  three  times  a  day  1  tablet  of  Conkey's 
Fever  Remedy  as  directed.  Treat  the  eyes  with  Conkey's  Eye  Remedy.  If 
there  is  a  discharge  from  the  nose,  or  any  difficulty  with  breathing,  Pi-no 
used  as  an  inhalant  from  steaming  hot  water  solution  will  relieve  the 
condition. 

Prevention      Disinfect   thoroughly   with    Nox-i-cide   Dip   and    Disinfectant 
to  prevent  the  spread  of  the  disorder. 

CONSTIPATION      With  newborn  calves  this  may  be  the  result  of  failing 

IN  CALVES  to  dry  off  the  cow  before  calving,  so  that  the  colostrum 

(first  secretion  in  the  udder  for  the  offspring)  does  not 

have  a  chance  to  form.  This  colostrum  is  the  laxative  supplied  by  nature 
to  empty  the  bowels  of  the  new-born.  Where  the  calf  is  constipated  we 
recommend  2  to  4  tablespoonfuls  of  castor  oil,  with  an  injection  up  the 
rectum,  using  1  pint  of  warm  water  and  1  teaspoonful  Nox-i-cide  Dip  and 
Disinfectant  stirred  or  shaken  to  an  emulsion.  If  the  calf  is  brought  up  by 
hand,  be  sure  the  milk  is  not  too  rich  or  from  a  cow  too  far  along  in 
lactation;  or,  where  skim  milk  is  used,  do  not  add  calf  meal  or  other  grain 
too  early,  as  the  salivary  and  pancreatic  ferments  necessary  for  digesting 
starch  are  not  developed  at  first.  Feed  the  milk  at  blood  heat,  never  cold, 
as  cold  milk  is  a  very  common  cause  of  trouble. 

COUGH        Never  neglect  the   symptoms   of  coughing.     When  the  cough 

is    from    tuberculosis    no    treatment    is    worth    while    since    the 

animal  is  unfit  for  breeding  purposes  and  neither  its  flesh  nor  milk  would 

be  fit  for  human  food.    When  simply  the  result  of  a  cold  or  sore  throat,  treat 

as  follows: 

Treatment  Spray  or  swab  the  throat  with  Pi-no,  mixing  with  water, 
according  to  directions  on  package.  Rub  the  throat  on  the 
outside,  from  ear  to  ear,  with  Conkey's  Warming  Liniment.  This  prepara- 
tion is  penetrating  and  will  allay  the  pain  and  soon  heal  the  soreness. 
Treat  twice  a  day,  or  if  a  very  bad  case  treat  oftener,  since  treatment 
greatly  relieves  the  animal's  suffering.  In  this  case,  also  Conkey's  Pi-no 
used  in  a  bucket  of  steaming  hot  water,  or  in  a  nose  bag,  as  an  inhalant, 
will  relieve  the  condition.  Where  there  are  ulcers  or  sores  in  the  mouth 
always  separate  the  animal.  Cough  (pneumonia)  is  often  associated  with 
navel  infection.  There  is  no  excuse  for  navel  infection  as  it  is  entirely 
preventable  by  simple  precautions  at  birth,  wetting  the  navel  with  1-1000 
solution  of  corrosive  sublimate  twice  a  day  until  the  cord  shrivels  up  and 
drops  off,  leaving  no  raw  spot,  or  Conkey's  Nox-i-cide  Dip  and  Disinfectant 
can  be  used.  Before  the  calf  is  allowed  to  suck,  wash  the  cow's  udder  with 
a  solution  of  1  teaspoonful  Nox-i-cide  Dip  and  Disinfectant  to  1  pint  of 
water,  as  otherwise  the  calf  is  liable  to  infection. 

COWPOX  This  is  an  acute  contagious  disease,  the  first  symptom  of 
which  is  slight  fever,  then  tenderness  and  inflammation  of  the 
teats.  Small  lumps  like  shot  form  under  the  skin,  then  soften  into  small 
pustules,  which  break  and  yellow  matter  runs  from  them.  This  discharge 
dries  into  scales  or  scabs.  The  teats  are  very  sensitive  and  painful  and  the 
cow  suffers  greatly  when  being  milked.  The  disease  is  spread  by  the 
milker's  hands. 

Treatment       Separate  the  cow  from  the  rest  of  the  herd,  as  the  discharge 

is  very  contagious.     Milk  her  last  of  all,  so  as  to  avoid  danger 

of  infecting  the  others  when  milking.     If  possible,  use  a  milking  tube,  steril- 


146 CONKEY'S  STOCK  BOOK 

izing  the  tube  before  using,  and  also  afterwards  in  a  solution  of  Conkey's 
Nox-i-cide  Dip  and  Disinfectant,  1  teaspoonful  to  1  pint  of  water  and  wash 
the  hands  of  the  milker  in  the  same  strength  solution  before  and  after 
milking  the  cow  affected.  Twice  a  day  wash  the  udder  with  this  solution 
and  gently  dry  by  patting  it  with  cheesecloth  or  dabbing  with  cotton 
batting.  Apply  Conkey's  Bag  Remedy  to  all  large  lumps  or  sores;  or  you 
can  use  y2  ounce  hyposulphite  soda  disolved  in  1  pint  of  water.  If  the  scabs 
are  very  bad  it  may  be  necessary  to  soak  them  in  a  warm  solution  of  Nox- 
i-cide  in  order  to  remove  them,  and  then  apply  Conkey's  Pain  Lotion. 

Prevention  Be  sure  to  milk  the  affected  cow  last  and  wash  the  hands 
thoroughly  after  milking.  Disinfect  the  quarters  thoroughly 
with  Nox-i-cide  Dip  and  Disinfectant  as  directed  on  package,  and  be  sure 
to  pour  a  little  Nox-i-cide  solution  on  a  cloth  and  wipe  off  the  udders 
and  teats  of  all  other  cows  before  milking.  This  will  save  any  chance 
of  the  disease  spreading  to  the  rest  of  the  herd. 

DEHORNING  Dehorning  is  not  a  dangerous  operation  if  care  is  taken 
to  disinfect  the  wound,  and  remove  all  horn  dust.  A 
common  saw  can  be  used  but  the  regular  dehorning  instruments  sold  for 
the  purpose  are  easier  both  for  the  operator  and  cattle.  Be  sure  to  cut 
close.  Dust  the  wound  with  Conkey's  Healing  Powder  and  it  will  heal 
over  quickly. 

Prevention  Horns  can  be  prevented  from  growing  simply  by  touching 
the  horn  spots  of  young  calves  with  a  stick  of  caustic  potash, 
during  first  week,  before  the  horns  have  a  chance  to  appear.  Use  tin  foil  to 
protect  the  hands  from  the  caustic  pencil,  and  moisten  the  point  of  the  pencil 
in  water  before  applying.  Do  not  get  the  caustic  too  wet  or  it  will  run 
down  into  the  eyes.  When  not  in  use  keep  the  caustic  potash  in  a  bottle, 
well  corked. 

DEPRAVED       Cattle  sometimes  lick  and  chew  stumps,  fence  boards  and 
APPETITE         even  filth,  and  their  coats  show  rough  and  staring.     Usually 
the    cause    is    some    fault    of    feeding    and    should    be    cor- 
rected as  follows: 

Treatment  Examine  the  ration  and  see  if  it  gives  sufficient  variety.  Be 
sure  that  cows  have  access  to  salt.  See  page  46  on  mixing 
stock  salt.  If  the  fault  is  not  with  the  feed  the  cows  need  tonic  treatment 
and  should  have  Conkey's  Stock  Tonic  mixed  with  the  regular  feed  as  per 
directions  on  package. 

EYES  SORE        Sore,  inflamed  eyes   are  best  treated  with   Conkey's   Eye 
Remedy  applied  as  directed.     If  inflammation  is  very  bad, 
treat  frequently.    This  is  very  soothing  and  healing.     Have  barn  well  lighted, 
but  avoid  light  directly  in  the  eyes  of  any  animal. 

FOOT  ROT —  Caused  by  exposure  to  filthy  floors  or  litter.  The  symp- 
FOUL  FOOT  toms  are  lameness,  then  swelling  of  the  foot  and  leg 
above  the  hoof,  which  comes  to  a  head  and  breaks  at 
the  top  of  the  cleft  of  the  hoof  and  discharges  a  fetid,  cheesy  pus.  Some- 
times there  is  proud-flesh  and  the  horn  or  claw  separates  from  the  hoof. 


DISEASES  OF   CATTLE 147 

Treatment  Wash  the  hoof  clean  in  a  solution  of  Conkey's  Nox-i-cide 
Dip  and  Disinfectant,  2  teaspoonfuls  in  a  pint  of  water.  Cut 
away  all  loose  horn,  then  apply  a  dressing  of  bran  or  flour  mixed  with  the 
Nox-i-cide  Dip  and  Disinfectant,  1  tablespoonful  to  5  of  water  makes  a  good 
proportion  for  this  dressing.  Pack  this  well  into  the  hoof  and  bandage 
well,  or  put  the  foot  in  a  poultice  boot  (see  cut,  page  17).  Be  sure  to 
keep  the  cattle  on  dry  clean  floors.  During  treatment  keep  the  diet  cool- 
ing and  laxative.  It  is  best  to  use  Cpnkey's  Stock  Tonic  in  the  feed  to 
keep  the  system  open. 

GARGET —  This    may    result    from    injury,    overfeeding   or    infection 

CAKED  BAG  through  the  teat  opening,  or  directly  from  the  blood 
circulation.  Prompt  treatment  is  necessary  since  the 
condition  may  become  chronic,  destroying  the  usefulness  of  the  cow.  (It 
does  not  pay  to  fuss  with  chronic  garget).  The  trouble  is  common  with 
cows  just  fresh,,  the  congested  state  of  the  udder  making  it  sensitive  to 
cold  or  other  injury  when  the  cow  is  lying  on  a  chilly,  wet  or  hard  floor. 
The  milk  stagnates,  coagulates,  and  decomposition  sets  in.  Sometimes 
pus  or  tumor-tissue  forms,  and  often  the  milk-gland  tissue  in  a  part  or  a 
whole  of  the  udder  is  permanently  injured 

Treatment  Separate  the  sick  cow  as  there  is  danger  of  infection.  First 
relieve  the  feverish  condition  by  a  dose  of  salts  (1  pound  of 
Epsom  salts  in  3  pints  of  water),  about  one  ounce  ginger  added  would  be 
beneficial.  Give  this  dose  once  a  week  for  three  or  four  weeks  as  necessary. 
Foment  the  udder  three  times  a  day  with  hot  water,  dry  gently  with  soft 
cloth  or  cotton  and  apply  Conkey's  Bag  Relief,  gently  rubbing  it  in  as  the 
friction  is  also  beneficial.  Strip  the  milk  away  as  often  as  possible,  if 
necessary  using  a  sterilized  milking  tube  (see  cut,  page  155).  Make  the 
cow  comfortable  with  plenty  of  clean  dry  bedding.  Lighten  the  grain  feed, 
and  give  Conkey's  Stock  Tonic  in  the  feed  as  directed.  See  that  the  cow 
is  not  exposed  to  wet  or  chilling  weather.  If  there  are  other  complications 
so  that  the  case  does  not  immediately  respond  to  above  treatment,  write 
us  full  description  and  we  will  advise  you  further.  Such  consultation  and 
advice  is  free. 

Prevention  Disinfect  the  hands  thoroughly  in  Nox-i-cide  Dip  and  Disin- 
fectant solution  after  handling  a  cow  with  garget,  or  your 
hands  may  spread  the  infection.  Look  sharply  to  stable  conditions  and  if 
there  has  been  an  outbreak  of  garget  in  the  herd  go  over  the  whole 
premises  carefully,  cleaning  and  disinfecting  with  Nox-i-cide  Dip  and 
Disinfectant  as  directed.  If  possible  whitewash  also.  Keep  the  cows  from 
wading  in  any  filth  or  stagnant  water. 

GLANDULAR       When    these   appear   on    udder,    neck,    etc.,   they    can    be 
SWELLING  quickly  treated  with  Conkey's  Pain  Lotion.    This  prepara- 

tion is  more  than  a  soothing  lotion;  it  is  an  emolient  and 
when  applied  externally  is  absorbed  by  the  tissues  and  quickly  heals  them, 
or  you  can  use  Conkey's  Absorbent,  painting  the  lump  as  directed  on 
package.  If  the  animal  is  out  of  condition  in  any  way,  treat  with  Conkey's 
Stock  Tonic. 

HEAT  Failure  to  come  in  heat  should  be  treated  first  by  Conkey's  Stock 
Tonic,  which  is  a  special  tonic  for  cows  and  builds  up  the  health 
quickly.  Increase  the  natural  vigor  of  the  animal  and  all  natural  functions 
follow.  If  the  trouble  is  not  due  to  low  condition,  and  the  animal  still  fails 
to  come  in  heat,  mix  sulphate  of  iron,  4  ounces,  powdered  cantharides,  2 
drams,  and  make  this  quantity  up  into  24  even  doses.  Give  one  dose  twice 
a  day  in  bran  mash  until  effective. 


148 CONKEY'S  STOCK  BOOK 

INDIGESTION         Loss  of  appetite,  dull,  unthriving  condition  should  be 
met  promptly.     Indigestion  from  any  cause  strikes  at 
the  basis  of  health,  and  vigor,  and  profit  in  livestock. 

Treatment  If  there  is  any  fault  with  the  feed  correct  it.  The  ration  may 
not  be  properly  balanced  or  it  may  be  disagreeing  with  the 
cattle.  Trouble  may  come  from  irregular  feeding.  Find  out  the  cause 
and  correct  it.  Having  corrected  the  ration,  mix  with  it  Conkey's  Stock 
Tonic  as  a  tonic  and  conditioner.  Begin  with  y2  tablespoonful  three  times  a 
day,  gradually  increasing  the  dose  to  1  tablespoonful.  This  will  tone  up 
the  weakened  digestive  organs,  enable  the  animals  to  fully  digest  the 
nutrients  in  the  feed  and  get  all  possible  benefit  from  them.  Cattle 
under  heavy  feeding  for  milk  or  beef  production  need  help  for  digestion 
or  functional  disturbance  is  pretty  sure  to  follow.  A  cow  suffering  from 
indigestion  is  in  just  the  right  low  condition  to  succumb  to  any  other  disease 
that  may  come  near  her.  Good  digestion  is  necessary  to  keep  up  the  body's 
power  of  resistance.  Under  natural  conditions  no  tonic  is  needed.  Under 
unnatural  condition,  i.  e.,  heavy  strain  for  production,  assistance  is  absolutely 
necessary.  Even  vigorous  animals  need  occasional  tonic  treatment.  Hence 
the  need  for  a  conditioner.  There  has  been  much  criticism  of  stock  "foods," 
but  no  scientific  man  has  ever  assailed  the  principle  back  of  Conkey's  Stock 
Tonic,  which  is  not  a  food  but  a  medicine.  It  is  safe  for  general  use  because 
it  combines  various  vegetable  tonics,  and  leaves  no  deposit  in  the  system. 
It  includes  also  vermifuge  properties,  since  internal  parasites  are  a  common 
cause  of  indigestion  and  all  farm  animals  need  occasional  vermifuge  treat- 
ment. Its  effect  on  the  system  is  slightly  laxative,  which  is  necessary  for 
animals  under  heavy  feeding  and  light  exercise.  As  a  general  tonic  for 
heavy  milking  cows  it  can't  be  beat. 

Prevention  Occasional  treatment  with  Stock  Tonic  is  advised  for  all 
farm  animals,  as  alterative,  tonic  treatment.  As  a  general 
preventive  of  disorders  we  advise  the  continuous  use  with  all  farm  animals 
of  a  mixture  as  follows:  90  pounds  common  barrel  salt,  10  pounds  Conkey's 
Stock  Tonic,  mix  thoroughly,  keep  dry  and  let  animals  help  themselves  to 
it  as  there  will  then  be  no  danger  of  overdosing.  This  should  be  before  all 
the  animals  all  the  time.  It  makes  the  best  possible  stock  salt  at  a  cost  of 
less  than  2*4  cents  per  pound.  It  will  keep  them  free  from  intestinal  para- 
sites, will  increase  appetite  and  exert  a  mild  tonic  effect. 

LAMENESS  If  caused  by  inflammation  between  the  claws  of  the  hoof 
treat  with  Conkey's  Nox-i-cide  Dip  and  Disinfectant  as 
directed  for  Foul-foot  and  Foot-rot.  Often  when  foul  foot  affects  a  fore 
foot  it  is  mistaken  for  shoulder  lameness  on  account  of  the  swelling  of  the 
leg.  Where  soreness  is  present  in  the  shoulder  apply  Conkey's  Pain  Lotion 
rubbing  it  in  well  and  liberally.  A  soft  hemp  rope  soaked  in  Nox-i-cide  Dip 
and  Disinfectant  solution  will  clean  out  and  disinfect  the  cleft  if  drawn 
back  and  forth  between  the  claws  of  the  hoof. 

LEUCHORREA —    The   symptom   is   a  white,   mucous,   vaginal   discharge. 
WHITES  Usually  it  is  best  to  isolate  the  cow.     Treat  as  follows: 

Treatment  Flush  out  the  vagina  once  a  day  with  a  gallon  of  luke-warm 
water  with  2^  tablespoonfuls  Nox-i-cide  Dip  and  Disinfectant. 
Treat  daily  for  ten  days,  then  if  symptom  continues  treat  every  other  day 
until  the  discharge  stops  entirely.  Give  internally  Conkey's  Stock  Tonic, 
either  mixing  the  dose  with  molasses  and  putting  it  on  the  back  of  the 
tongue,  or  adding  it  to  the  regular  feed  as  directed  on  packages.  The 


DISEASES  OF  CATTLE 149 

condition  described  shows  a  functional  weakness,  and  tonic  treatment  is 
necessary  to  build  up  the  bodily  vigor. 

LICE         The  lice  that  affect  cattle  are  blood-suckers,  with  narrow  heads 
and  long  trunk-like  sucking  tubes.     They  leave  the  cattle  when 
turned  on  grass,  but  the  nits  remain  in  the  stable  so  that  thorough  cleaning 
and  disinfecting  of  the  premises  is  necessary  to  get  rid  of  these  pests. 

Treatment  Conkey's  Nox-i-cide  Dip  and  Disinfectant,  mixed  with  60  to 
75  parts  water,  should  be  sprayed  or  applied  with  a  brush  as 
convenient.  Begin  at  the  head  and  work  back  over  the  animal,  as  the  lice 
will  try  to  get  out  of  the  way  of  the  mixture  and  especially  try  to  hide 
away  in  the  ears.  Go  over  the  whole  animal  thoroughly  and  get  at  every 
part  with  the  Nox-i-cide  Dip  and  Disinfectant.  It  will  certainly  kill  the 
lice,  but  the  nits  will  hatch  in  10  days  and  the  animal  should  then  be 
sprayed  again.  In  cold  weather  the  mixture  should  be  made  with  warm 
water  so  as  to  avoid  chilling,  and  the  animal  should  be  dried  in  the  sun- 
shine or  a  blanket  put  over  it  until  thoroughly  dried  off.  Instead  of 
Nox-i-cide  Dip  and  Disinfectant,  Conkey's  Lice  Powder  can  be  used,  sifting 
it  over  the  body  thoroughly  and  rubbing  it  in  so  as  to  get  to  every  part. 
With  the  powder  there  is  no  danger  of  chilling,  but  powder  is  more  trouble- 
some to  apply  over  a  large  surface  than  Nox-i-cide  Dip  and  Disinfectant. 
Treatment  includes  going  over  the  barn  or  stable  thoroughly,  cleaning  and 
disinfecting,  and  if  possible  whitewashing  it. 

LUMPY  JAW  This  is  a  tumor-like  growth,  usually  on  the  jaw  but 
sometimes  on  the  tongue  (wooden-tongue),  or  it  may 
affect  the  lungs.  It  is  due  to  bacterial  infection  from  the  ray  fungus,  which 
exists  naturally  on  spears  of  oats,  awns  of  barley,  thorns,  etc.  If  the  sensi- 
tive membrane  of  the  mouth  is  cut  by  a  bit  of  sharp  forage,  or  if  there 
is  a  scratch  or  sore  of  any  sort  in  the  mouth,  or  a  bad  tooth,  the  animal  is 
easily  infected  by  this  ray  fungus  (in  fact,  inoculated)  and  symptoms  of 
lump  jaw  may  quickly  follow.  At  first  there  is  a  lump  on  the  jaw  bone,  or 
just  back  of  the  angle  of  the  jaw,  and  in  the  early  stages,  while  the  bunch 
is  soft  and  not  attached  to  the  bone  itself,  it  is  quite  easy  to  cure.  If 
neglected  the  lump  continues  to  grow  and  when  broken  discharges  thick, 
yellow  matter.  This  discharge  is  contagious  and  if  any  of  it  drops  on  the 
food  or  the  pasture  other  cattle  are  likely  to  be  affected.  We  know  of 
instances  where  three  generations  kept  on  the  same  pasture  developed  lump 
jaw.  It  usually  starts  with  young  cattle  and  in  the  last  half  of  the  year, 
when  sharp  grain  and  hay  is  fed  and  mouth-sores  are  more  common. 

Treatment  As  soon  as  the  lump  is  discovered  apply  Conkey's  Absorbent 
as  directed,  first  cutting  away  the  hair.  If  the  lump  is  small 
this  will  absorb  it.  If  the  lump  is  large,  this  treatment  will  soften  it  so 
that  it  can  be  opened  and  cleaned  out,  and  the  tumor  ©r  abscess  then 
packed  with  gauze  or  oakum  saturated  in  Conkey's  Absorbent.  Or  you  can 
dress  these  fistulous  tracts  with  a  lotion  made  by  dissolving  copper  sulphate 
(blue  vitrol)  10  grains  to  one  ounce  of  pure  water.  To  hasten  recovery 
internal  treatment  can  be  given  as  follows,  with  due  attention  to  the  special 
caution:  Give  potassium  iodide,  2  to  3  drams  daily,  until  the  animal  shows 
signs  of  scurf,  loses  appetite,  droops,  etc.  Then  stop  for  a  few  days,  then 
commence  again.  Among  veterinarians  iodide  of  potash  is  considered  a 
specific  for  this  disease.  It  is  successful  in  3  out  of  4  cases,  but  if  no  im- 
provement follows  after  four  or  five  weeks  the  treatment  should  be  given 
up  entirely.  This  drug  should  be  used  with  full  knowledge  that  it  causes 


150 CONKEY'S  STOCK  BOOK 

emaciation,  lessens  the  milk  flow,  and  may  cause  abortion.  The  drug  is 
fairly  expensive,  but  it  is  estimated  that  1  pound  iodide  of  potash  in  1  quart 
of  water  will  be  enough  for  a  test  of  two  month's  treatment,  giving  y2  ounce 
of  this  solution  each  night  and  morning.  It  can  be  put  in  the  drinking  water 
or  given  as  a  drench  if  care  is  taken  to  prevent  strangling. 

Prevention      Use    Conkey's    Nox-i-cide    Dip    and    Disinfectant    liberally    to 
kill  all  germs.     Lump  Jaw  is  very  contagious.     It  will  easily 
spread  to  the  whole  herd,  or  infect  the  stable  or  pasture,  thus  endangering 
animals  that  may  occupy  them  later. 

MANGE  AND  This  is  due  usually  to  skin  parasites,  but  itching  may 
ITCH  come  from  nervous  eczema.  The  irritated  condition  of 

the  skin  and  constant  itching  result  in  sore  patches  and  loss  of  hair,  and 
expose  the  animal  to  insect  pests. 

Treatment  Apply  Conkey's  Dip  and  Disinfectant,  using  1  part  to  60  or 
75  of  water.  Rub  well  into  the  skin  with  a  stiff  brush  or  use 
a  sprayer.  This  will  allay  the  intolerable  itching  immediately  and  will  cure 
the  disease  by  killing  the  germs.  If  the  trouble  is  nervous  eczema,  treat 
the  general  condition,  building  up  the  body  and  cleaning  the  blood  with 
Conkey's  Stock  Tonic  mixed  with  the  regular  feed  as  directed.  Mangy 
cattle  always  show  unthrifty  appearance,  and  a  course  of  Conkey's  Stock 
Tonic  to  improve  the  condition  should  always  be  a  part  of  the  treatment. 

MILK  FEVER        Usually  the  best  cow  in  the  herd  is  the  one  attacked, 
for    milk    fever    affects    well-fed,    heavy    milkers,    and 

especially  those  that  have  already  calved  several  times.  Symptoms  usually 
start  within  two  days  after  calving: 

Symptoms  Uneasiness,  stamping  the  hind  legs,  muscles  twitching,  stag- 
gering, then  the  hind  legs  drag  and  finally  the  cow  goes  down 
in  the  characteristic  attitude  shown  in  the  picture,  with  her  head  turned  to 
the  side,  and  a  peculiar  arch  of  the  neck.  The  animal  seems  to  be  in  a 
stupor  and  does  not  respond  even 
when  the  ball  of  the  eye  is  touched. 
The  tongue  seems  paralyzed.  The 
movements  of  the  digestive  or- 
gans apparently  cease,  and  there  is 
no  dung  Dr  urine.  The  pulse 
ranges  fr^m  60  degrees  to  150;  the 
temperature  may  be  below  nor- 
mal or  as  high  as  105  F.  When 
the  cow  is  not  treated  death  usually 
comes  in  a  few  days,  and  under  the  old  treatment  fully  nine  cases  in  every 
ten  were  lost.  The  new  treatment  is  considered  one  of  the  most  brilliant 
discoveries  in  modern  veterinary  knowledge  for  with  it  nine  cases  in  every 
ten  are  successful.  Just  why  it  cures  scientists  do  not  understand  as  yet. 
But  the  following  is  the  successful  treatment: 

Treatment  Get  a  milking  tube,  a  bulb  and  six  feet  of  rubber  tubing  con- 
nected with  a  filtering  chamber  filled  with  sterile  cotton,  or 
use  a  tank  of  compressed  oxygen.  Strip  the  udder  of  milk,  wash  it  thor- 
oughly with  a  warm,  antiseptic  solution  of  Nox-i-cide  Dip  and  Disinfectant, 
two  teaspoonfuls  to  a  pint  of  warm  soft  water,  and  also  sterilize  the  milking 


DISEASES   OF  CATTLE 151 

tube  and  the  hands  of  the  operator  in  some  of  this  same  strength  solution. 
Treat  each  teat  by  inserting  the  sterile  milking  'tube  and  slowly  inflate 
until  the  air  bubbles  out.  The  above  regular  appliances  can  be  bought 
for  the  purpose  but  in  an  emergency  a  satisfactory  practical  substitute 
is  a  bicycle  pump  connected  with  what  is  known  as  a  wash  bottle,  which 
is  nothing  more  than  a  tightly  stoppered  bottle,  fitted  with  a  long 
and  a  short  glass  tube,  containing  a  strong  Nox-i-cide  solution,  say  1 
ounce  of  Nox-i-cide  Dip  and  Disinfectant  to  5  ounces  of  water,  or  about 
2  tablespoonfuls  to  a  glass  of  water.  The  air  is  sterilized  by  being  pumped 
through  this  solution,  since  it  enters  the  wash-bottle  by  a  tube  running  below 
the  surface  of  the  antiseptic  solution,  and  is  forced  through  this  wash  before 
it  can  escape  by  the  short  tube.  When  the  quarter  being  treated  is  fully 
distended,  carefully  withdraw  the  milking  tube,  pinching  the  teat  to  prevent 
the  gas  or  air  from  escaping,  and  tie  the  end  of  the  teat  with  a  strip  of 
Y-2.  inch  muslin  or  tape.  These  tapes  should  not  be  left  on  long  enough  to 
destroy  circulation  but  should  come  off  in  an  hour  or  so.  Keep  the  cow 
upright,  and  not  on  her  side;  if  necessary  proo  with  bolsters  of  chaff  or 
straw.  Do  not  rub  the  udder  or  attempt  to  milk  it;  leave  it  alone  for 
18  to  24  hours.  In  most  cases  the  cow  regains  consciousness  soon  after  the 
operation,  rises  and  commences  eating.  She  should  then  be  fed  very  care- 
fully, light,  easily  digested  food,  with  Conkey's  Stock  Tonic  mixed  with  it 
according  to  directions.  For  several  days  she  should  be  milked  very  lightly, 
or  milk  fever  conditions  may  come  back. 

Prevention  Do  not  let  a  cow  that  is  due  to  calve  get  into  over-fat  con- 
dition. Especially  if  it  is  her  third  calf,  watch  out.  Have  Con- 
key's  Stock  Tonic  on  hand  and  during  the  last  six  weeks  before  calving 
give  the  doses  regularly  as  directed.  This  is  the  best  possible  treatment 
for  preventing  the  various  troubles  so  common  at  calving.  Conkey's  Stock 
Tonic  keeps  the  organs  active  and  the  system  open.  It  gives  the  cow 
vigor  and  makes  her  calf  more  sturdy.  During  the  last  weeks  keep  all 
grain  out  of  the  ration,  but  give  bran  every  day.  Let  the  cow  exercise  freely, 
A  little  extra  care  just  at  this  critical  time  will  often  save  heavy  losses  later. 

MILKING          Bloody   milk   treat   as   suggested  ^\  -^ 

TROUBLES       under  that   head.     Leaking  milk  \Aj 

from  the  teat  is  simplest  treated       \r\    ^^ 
by  putting  on  rubber  bands  1   inch  up  from  the  f2\ 

end  of  the  teat,  tight  enough  to  close  the  teat  but  \J/ 

rot   too   tight   for   circulation.     These   ban^s    can          - 
easily  be  removed  when  milking.  \j   Q 

Hard    milking    is    usually    corrected    by    teat        ^-.v    /\ 
dilators  or  plugs,  but  as  a  last  resort  get  a  veter- 
inarian to  slit  the  teat,  using  a  bistuory,  properly 
sterilized  for  the  operation. 

Ropy  or  stringy  milk  is  often  traced  to  bac-          Bacterium  lacti  viscosus, 
teria  from  bad  water.     Sometimes  it  is  caused  by        whlch  cause  stnn*y  milk 
indigestion,  in  which  case  physic  the  cow,  change 

the  feed  and  give  */2  ounce  granular  hyposulphite  of  soda  in  the  feed  or 
drinking  water,  night  and  morning.  Look  after  the  water  supply,  as  it  may 
cause  infection.  Disinfect  the  cow  stable  with  Conkey's  Nox-i-cide  Dip 
and  Disinfectant.  Clean  up,  and  if  possible  whitewash,  and  get  more  sun- 
light into  the  stable.  Keep  the  udder  washed  clean,  using  Conkey's  Nox-i- 
side  Dip  and  Disinfectant  in  the  wash  water. 

Shrinking  of  the  milk  flow  is  usually  due  to  faulty  feeding.     Read  care- 
fully pages  35-40.    To  insure  full  value  from  feed,  mix  with  it  Conkey's  Stock 


152 CONKEY'S  STOCK  BOOK 

Tonic  according  to  directions.  Increase  the  drinking  water  allowance  and  be 
sure  it  is  of  comfortable  temperature  for  drinking.  Do  not  let  your  cows 
fret,  for  any  nervous,  excited  condition  acts  directly  on  the  milk  secretion. 
Keep  your  cows  contented  and  happy.  Keep  them  warm  in  winter,  provide 
shade  for  them  in  summer,  spray  them  with  Conkey's  Fly  Knocker  during 
the  fly  pest  season,  and  they  will  make  full  use  of  their  feed  in  a  profitable 
milk-flow. 

NAVEL  ILL          This  is  a  common  disease  of  calves,  as  also  of  colts.     It 
is  due  to  germ  infection  of  the  navel  cord  and  may  occur 
at  birth  or  anytime  before  the  navel  is  perfectly  healed. 

Symptoms       Soreness  and  inflammation  at  the  navel;  swelling  of  the  joints; 
lameness,   sometimes   paralysis   of  the  forelegs   or  hind   legs; 
the    young   animal    is    puny,    fails    to    thrive,    and    usually    indigestion    and 
scours  follow. 

Prevention  Proper  treatment  is  prevention,  for  this  trouble  is  preventable 
always.  Before  the  cow  calves,  see  that  her  stall  is  clean  and 
thoroughly  disinfected,  using  Conkey's  Nox-i-cide  Dip  and  Disinfectant  in 
a  solution  of  one  part  to  fifty  of  water.  Wet  the  navel  for  a  week  or  ten 
days  with  Nox-i-cide  solution,  two  teaspoonfuls  in  a  pint  of  soft  water,  or 
1  to  1,000  solution  of  corrosive  sublimate. 

PARALYSIS  This  is  sometimes  very  difficult  to  treat  and  a  good  veter- 
OF  THE  inarian  should  be  called  as  there  may  be  complications. 

BOWELS  Obstinate  constipation,  acute  indigestion,  such  as  impaction 

of   the    rumen,    or   worms    are    some    common    causes;    but 
there  are  many  others.     It  may  affect  either  calves  or  grown  animals. 

Symptoms       The  animal  goes  down  and  cannot  get  up,  or  can  rise  only 
in  part.     Usually  it  is  the  hind  part  that  is  affected. 

Treatment  The  first  thing  is  to  give  a  brisk  physic,  such  as  Ep- 
som salts,  and  inject  1  oz.  of  glycerine  up  the  rectum. 
Then  every  four  hours  give  warm  flaxseed  tea  and  thin  oatmeal  gruel 
containing  stimulants.  Give  this  in  large  quantities,  as  much  as  the 
animal  will  drink.  For  the  stimulant,  give  2  ounces  of  whiskey  and 
y?.  teaspoonful  of  fluid  extract  of  nux  voniica.  Increase  the  dose  of  nux 
vomica  each  day  until  the  animal  gets  up  of  its  own  accord  or  until  the 
muscles  twitch  involuntarily.  Then  go  back  to  the  original  dose  and  con- 
tinue as  necessary.  The  urine  should  be  drawn  if  the  animal  cannot  pass  it. 

Prevention  Paralysis  due  to  digestive  disorders  can  be  prevented  by  the 
use  of  Conkey's  Stock  Tonic  occasionally,  mixed  with  the 
regular  feed,  according  to  directions.  This  treatment  tones  all  the  organs 
and  keeps  the  system  open.  Conkey's  Stock  Tonic  is  especially  advised  for 
all  dairy  animals.  It  wards  off  many  troubles  to  which  heavy  milkers  are 
liable. 

RINGWORM  This  is  a  skin  disease  due  to  a  parasite  which  works  in 
the  hair  follicles,  causing  bald  spots.  It  is  especially  com- 
mon in  winter  and  spring.  It  usually  attacks  the  face  but  may  appear  on 
any  part  of  the  body,  as  round  bare  patches  covered  with  white  or  grayish 
scales  and  ringed  around  the  edge  with  bristly,  diseased  hairs,  which  in  turn 
fall  out,  so  that  the  rings  or  spots  are  sometimes  2  or  3  inches  in  diameter. 
This  trouble  is  contagious. 


DISEASES  OF  CATTLE 153 

Treatment  Scrub  the  affected  parts  well  with  Conkey's  Nox-i-cide  Dip 
and  Disinfectant  solution,  two  teaspoonfuls  in  a  pint  of  water; 
then  apply  an  ointment  made  by  mixing  1  part  Conkey's  Absorbent  with 
two  parts  lard.  Put  this  on  every  two  days  until  all  scabs  are  gone.  It  is 
better  to  shave  the  hairs  from  the  edge  of  the  spot  or  pull  them  out  with 
pincers,  then  apply  the  ointment.  Clean  up  the  quarters  and  disinfect 
thoroughly  with  Conkey's  Nox-i-cide  Dip  and  Disinfectant  to  prevent  the 
spread  of  the  disease. 

Prevention  Extra  care  in  cleaning,  disinfecting,  etc.,  will  entirely  prevent 
any  trouble  with  ring  worm.  The  use  of  Conkey's  Nox-i-cide 
Dip  and  Disinfectant  in  the  cleaning  water  when  animals  are  groomed  will 
prevent  any  development  of  such  skin  disorders  as  ring  worm,  mange,  itch, 
etc. 

SCOURS  This  is  a  frequent  trouble  with  calves,  but  it  also  affects 
grown  cattle.  With  calves  the  trouble  may  be  inherited,  or 
from  navel  infection  or,  what  is  most  common,  some  fault  of  feeding.  With 
grown  cattle  the  trouble  is  usually  due  to  some  simple  error  in  feeding,  such 
as  giving  too  much  salt  after  depriving  them  of  it  for  a  long  time,  or  it  may 
also  come  from  any  irritant  in  the  bowels.  Calf  scours  is  a  common  ail- 
ment of  calves  brought  up  by  hand  and  usually  starts  sometime  in  the  first 
month.  The  scouring  is  a  symptom  rather  than  the  disease  itself,  the  real 
trouble  being  the  irritated  condition  of  the  intestines  from  bad  digestion. 
The  diarrhea  is  thin  and  watery,  and  may  be  white,  greenish  or  mixed 
with  bloody  mucous. 

Treatment  At  the  first  sign  give  a  dose  of  castor  oil,  1  to  2  ounces  in 
milk,  dose  according  to  the  age  of  the  calf.  This  is  always 
the  first  step  in  checking  the  trouble.  Then  3  times  a  day  give  one  tea- 
spoonful  subnitrate  of  bismuth.  Examine  the  feed,  for  the  trouble  is  there. 
If  skim  milk  is  fed  add  1  ounce  of  lime  water  to  every  pint  of  milk.  Be 
sure  that  all  milk  fed  the  calves  is  at  blood  heat  temperature,  for  cold 
milk  is  often  the  cause  of  scouring.  If  the  calves  are  fed  whole  milk,  be 
sure  it  is  not  too  rich,  and  not  from  a  cow  too  far  along  in  lactation.  Feed 
often  and  only  a  moderate  amount  at  a  time.  Be  very  sure  that  all  utensils 
are  thoroughly  clean.  A  little  Nox-i-cide  Dip  and  Disinfectant  in  the  wash 
water  will  disinfect  them  thoroughly.  Do  not  add  grain  or  calf  meal  of 
any  sort  too  soon,  as  the  digestive  juices  are  not  ready  for  grain  in  the  first 
few  weeks.  When  grain  is  added,  avoid  using  screened  oats,  as  the  hulls 
are  irritating.  A  little  blood  meal  fed  with  corn  meal,  makes  a  good 
substitute.  Soon  as  the  bowel  movements  check  give  the  calves  J4  table- 
spoonful  Conkey's  Stock  Tonic  as  directed  and  continue  treatment  for  about 
two  weeks  or  until  the  animal  gets  a  good  start. 

White  scours,  appearing  the  first  or  second  day  after  birth,  with  great 
weakness  and  dulness  of  the  calf,  is  a  contagious  disease  and  usually  is 
quickly  fatal.  It  is  due  to  navel  infection  and  the  treatment  is  therefore 
preventive  as  follows:  Let  the  cow  calve  in  a  separate  clean  stable,  or 
disinfect  the  quarters  very  thoroughly  with  Conkey's  Nox-i-cide  Dip  and 
Disinfectant,  %  pint  to  each  gallon  of  water.  Some  of  the  same  strength 
solution  should  be  used  to  wash  off  the  hind  quarters  of  the  cow  and  at 
birth  the  cord  should  be  tied  with  sterile  string  or  tape  (sterilize  by  soaking 
in  a  cup  of  water  with  1  teaspoonful  of  Nox-i-cide  Dip  and  Disinfectant) 
and  for  a  week  or  ten  days,  until  it  heals,  the  stump  should  be  wet  each 
day  with  this  Nox-i-cide  solution. 


154 CQNlKEY'S  STOCK  BOOK 

SLOBBERING          First  examine  the  teeth  and  tongue.     A  split,  sharp  or 
diseased  tooth  may  cause  the  irritation.     Or  the  tongue 

may  show  enlargement  and  irritation,  the  so-called  "wooden-tongue;"  it 
may  show  the  skin  stripped  off  in  places.  If  the  teeth  are  diseased,  give 
them  attention.  If  the  tongue  is  affected,  treat  the  places  with  tincture 
of  iodine  once  daily,  after  first  cauterizing  with  lunar  caustic.  Then  give 
one  dram  iodid  of  potash  twice  a  day,  noting  the  caution  given  under 
treatment  for  Lump  Jaw.  If  neither  teeth  nor  tongue  are  at  fault,  treat 
for  stomach  derangement,  and  give  Conkey's  Stock  Tonic  in  the  feed 
according  to  directions. 

SORE  For  this  symptom,  swab  the  mouth  with  Conkey's  Nox-i-cide 

MOUTH  Dip  and  Disinfectant  solution,  y2  teaspoonful  to  a  cup  of  water. 
If  the  tongue  shows  symptoms  of  "wooden  tongue"  (a  rounded, 
hard  swelling)  due  to  actinomycosis,  that  is  infection  from  ray  fungus,  (see 
Lump  Jaw),  treat  as  described  above,  using  tincture  of  iodine,  and  night 
and  morning  a  dram  of  iodid  of  potash  in  the  drinking  water  for  ten  days. 
Note  the  cautions  as  to  the  use  of  iodid  of  potash,  page  149  under  Lump 
Jaw. 

SORES  Treat  all  such  places  with  Co'nkey's  Healing  Powder.  If  there 
are  lumps  or  bunches  filled  with  pus,  first  open  and  let  this 
matter  out,  then  swab  with  Nox-i-cide  solution,  1  teaspoonful  of  Conkey's 
Nox-i-cide  Dip  and  Disinfectant  to  a  cup  of  water.  Treat  once  a  day  until 
thoroughly  healed.  Never  neglect  sores  as  they  are  liable  to  infection  with 
disease  germs  or  maggots  and  frequently  cause  very  serious  trouble. 

STERILITY  In  a  very  large  proportion  of  cases  this  trouble  can  be 
successfully  treated  in  cows  as  follows:  First,  before  breed- 
ing, make  sure  that  the  animal  is  in  good  muscular  condition,  not  too  fat, 
but  not  too  lean;  that  is,  see  that  the  cow  has  proper  vitality.  To  insure 
this  vitality  we  advise  systematic  treatment  with  Conkey's  Stock  Tonic, 
mixing  it  with  the  regular  feed  as  directed.  It  will  make  the  animal  thrifty, 
if  the  trouble  has  been  faulty  digestion,  as  it  will  insure  digestion,  and  it  will 
produce  a  healthy  appetite  if  the  animal  has  been  off  feed  or  run  down  in 
any  way.  In  short,  first  make  sure  that  the  animal  is  in  good  breeding  con- 
dition. If  she  still  fails  to  breed  then  use  the  simple  yeast  or  soda  treat- 
ment, to  correct  unnatural  acidity  of  the  womb.  This  treatment  is  very 
successful  as  follows:  Two  or  three  times  a  week  flush  out  the  vagina  with 
a  gallon  of  luke-warm  water,  containing  Y-2.  oz.  sodium  bicarbonate  (or  use 
the  yeast  treatment  described  on  page  116.  An  hour  before  service  have 
a  veterinarian  or  other  competent  operator  open  the  neck  of  the  womb  and 
again  inject  the  soda  solution.  If  the  cow  fails  to  conceive,  repeat  above 
treatment. 

SWELLING  Reduce  ordinary  swellings  with  Conkey's  Absorbent,  rub- 
bing it  in  freely.  Or,  Conkey's  Warming  Liniment  could  be 
used  to  advantage,  but  if  a  stubborn  case,  use  Conkey's  Absorbent.  Soft 
dropsical  swellings  sometimes  appear  on  different  parts  of  the  body  and  are 
a  symptom,  sometimes  of  tuberculosis,  sometimes  of  general  debility  and 
run-down  condition.  If  the  trouble  is  not  tuberculosis,  but  due  to  bloodless- 
ness  and  general  poor  condition,  put  the  animal  on  generous  nutritious  feed 
and  mix  with  the  feed  Conkey's  Stock  Tonic  according  to  directions.  This 
treatment  will  build  up  the  animal  from  the  inside  out,  which  is  far  more 
scientific  than  trying  to  treat  from  the  outside  in. 


DISEASES   OF   CATTLE 155 

TEATS  Closed  or  obstructed  teats  usually  need  the  attention  of  a  vet- 
erinarian or  other  attendant  competent  to  slit  the  teat  in  four 
different  directions,  using  a  regular  instrument  for  the  purpose,  the  teat 
bistuory  (see  cut)  sterilized  in 
Nox-i-cide  solution,  1  teaspoonful 
Conkey's  Nox-i-cide  Dip  and  Dis- 
infectant to  a  cup  of  water.  Per- 
form this  operation  of  cutting 
while  the  cow  is  in  milk,  then  to 
keep  the  opening  from  closing 
strip  away  a  little  of  the  milk  fre- 

quently<  1.    Teat  bistoury       2.    Milking  tube 

Deranged       teats       sometimes 

need  only  the  use  of  a  sterilized  milking  tube  (see  cut)  to  draw  off  the  milk, 
the  derangement  disappearing  in  time.  In  such  cases,  or  where  the  teat 
seems  to  be  shrinking,  use  Conkey's  Bag  Relief,  rubbing  it  into  the  affected 
quarter.  In  some  cases  special  dosing  with  one  dram  of  iodid  of  potash  two 
times  a  day,  in  bran  mash,  will  correct  the  condition  in  from  two  to  four 
weeks,  but  if  not,  there  is  no  use  to  continue  the  treatment. 

Leaking  or  punctured  teats  can  be  closed  by  painting  the  leak  with 
successive  coats  of  flexible  collodion.  Or  the  edges  of  the  hole  are  cut  or 
scarified,  then  drawn  together  like  the  edges  of  an  ordinary  wound  and 
stitched,  when  of  course,  they  heal  over. 

Sores  on  the  end  of  the  teat  can  be  cured  by  dusting  on  Conkey's 
Healing  Powder.  This  is  a  bad  place  to  heal  a  sore  so  use  the  powder 
persistently.  Some  times  such  places  are  treated  by  burning  with  nitrate 
of  silver,  two  or  three  times  a  week. 

TUBERCULOSIS    General  unthriftiness,  with  or  without  cough,  may  indi- 
cate    tuberculosis.       All      such      animals      should     be 

tested.  A  "test"  sometimes  goes  wrong — we  all  know  that — but  short  of 
cutting  the  suspected  animal  open,  testing  is  the  only  means  we  have  for 
determining  this  condition.  In  testing  for  tuberculosis,  be  sure  that  the 
cow  is  otherwise  in  normal  condition,  or  the  test  will  mean  nothing.  If  a 
second  test  is  made,  do  not  attempt  it  too  soon  after  the  first,  for  the 
animal  will  fail  to  re-act,  even  though  tubercular.  Treatment  for  tubercu- 
losis is  not  practical,  as  no  product  of  the  animal  affected  would  be  safe 
for  human  food. 

Prevention  Prevention  is  entirely  possible.     The  presence  or  the  fear 

of  tuberculosis — and  the  fear  of  it  is  always  with  the 
cattle  owner — calls  for  good  sanitary  precautions — plenty  of  fresh  air  in 
the  stables,  regular  removal  of  all  filth  or  dust  accumulations,  and  thorough 
disinfecting  with  Conkey's  Nox-i-cide  Dip  and  Disinfectant,  the  combi- 
nation general  purpose  article.  Tuberculosis  is  one  of  the  numerous  dis- 
eases which  are  easily  preventable  but  well  nigh  incurable  if  once  they 
get  a  headway.  Cows  are  especially  liable  to  tuberculosis  on  account  of 
the  functional  strain  on  them  for  heavy  milk  production.  It  is  the  heavy 
milkers  that  seem  most  liable,  and  it  is  noticed  that  those  with  narrow 
chests,  long  legs,  long  neck,  and  ears  and  horns  set  close  together  seem 
to  be  the  easiest  victims.  As  indicated  above,  close,  badly-aired  stables 
greatly  increase  the  danger. 


156 CONKEY'S   STOCK   BOOK 

WARBLES  These  are  bots  or  tumors,  that  is  small  lumps  under  the 
skin,  usually  along  the  back.  They  are  caused  by  the  larvae 
or  grub  of  the  bot-fly,  which  in  summer  season  stings  the  animal  on  the 
back  and  deposits  an  egg  at  each  sting.  By  early  spring,  these  grub  have 
developed  into  sizeable  worms.  Each  lump  or  tumor  has  a  hole  in  its 
center,  through  which  the  bot  or  warble  may  be  seen. 

Treatment  As  soon  as  you  find  these  lumps  or  tumors,  press  the  grub  out 
with  the  fingers,  then  apply  a  salve  made  up  of  three  parts 
lard  and  one  part  Conkey's  Nox-i-cide  Dip  and  Disinfectant.  If  more 
convenient,  spraying  with  Nox-i-cide  solution,  one  part  to  100  of  water  will 
prove  effective.  Be  sure  to  press  out  the  grub,  for  if  killed  but  left  in  the 
tumor  they  are  liable  to  fester,  and  in  any  case  destroy  the  value  of  the 
hide. 

Prevention      Spray   cattle  in   fly   time   with    Conkey's   Fly   Knocker.     This 
will  keep  the  bot  or  gad  fly  from  alighting  on  the  animals. 

Caution  Some  salves,  anti-parasite  mixtures,  etc.,  advertised  for  this 
purpose  are  in  the  nature  of  mercurial  ointments,  or  contain 
other  poisonous  matter.  While  effective  for  killing  the  grubs,  they  are 
very  dangerous,  as  the  cows  are  liable  to  lick  each  other's  backs.  We 
guarantee  Conkey's  Nox-i-cide  Dip  and  Disinfectant  and  Conkey's  Fly 
Knocker  not  to  injure  the  animal  in  any  way  and  that  the  above  treatment 
will  rid  the  hide  of  these  destructive  pests. 

WARTS  These  may  appear  on  any  part  of  the  body,  and  where  they  can 
be  clipped,  that  is  the  simplest  treatment,  but  touch  each  spot 
with  nitrate  of  silver  and  then  applying  Conkey's  Healing  Salve  until 
thoroughly  healed  or  mix  up  an  ointment  from  common  lard,  3  parts  and  1 
part  Nox-i-cide  Dip  and  Disinfectant.  Where  the  wart  has  a  neck,  a  good 
plan  is  to  strangle  the  wart  by  tying  a  thread  or  cord  around  it  as  close 
as  possible  to  the  base.  When  the  wart  sloughs  off  apply  a  little  solution 
of  chloride  of  antimony,  every  third  day  until  the  sore  part  is  a  little  lower 
than  the  skin.  Heal  with  Conkey's  Healing  Powder  as  directed.  Warts 
on  the  teat  can  usually  be  treated  very  simply  by  rubbing  with  castor  oil 
once  or  twice  a  day.  Olive  oil  is  also  good.  If  necessary  to  clip  warts  on 
the  udder,  treat  only  a  few  at  a  time  to  avoid  too  much  irritation  and  inflam- 
mation. 


SHEEP   RAISING 


157 


SHEEP 

^"T>HE  United  States  will  soon  be  the  greatest  wool  producing  country 

in  the  world. 

-^-  She  already  grows  more  than  300,000,000  pounds  a  year,  fleece  and 

pulled;  and  imports  about  as  much  again  for  her  own  use. 

300,000,000    pounds!      And    yet    not    enough.      Twenty    years    ago    we 
thought  70,000,000  pounds  something  to  brag  of. 

She  exports  a  little,  but  lets  other  countries  supply  the  great  world 
market.     Why  does  she  do  it? 

WHO  WEARS     Did  you  ever  stop  to  think  that  after  all,  of  all  the  people 
CLOTHES?  in  this  world,  only  one-third  are  fully  clothed?     And  of 

that  one-third  which  we  speak  of  as  civilized  and  fully 
clothed,  there  are  varying  classes,  but  chiefly  two  classes:  one  class  which 
has  all  it  needs,  and  another  class,  which  we.  called  the  "other  half,"  which 
doesn't  have  all  it  needs.  Have  you  all  'you  need,  say  in  the  matter  of 
clothes?  Could  you  use  more  wool  at  present?  Do  you  think  the  sheep 
industry  can  keep  up  with  the  world's  needed  supply? 

WHAT  Wool,  wool,  wool!    We  must  have  it — more  of  it — and  more 

WE  NEED     grades   and  varieties   of  it.     Bigger   flocks!      Better   care   of 
sheep  and  fleece!     More  intelligent  breeding!     Who  knows 
but  we  may  develop  before  long  with  this  easily  modeled  animal  entirely 
new  breeds  for  new  and  special  purposes? 

THE  WORLD'S     Why  look  to  Europe  and  Australia  for  the  world's  big 
MARKET  wool  supply?     Why  look  to   England  for  the  lustrous 

Leicester  wool  our  manufacturers  of  dress  goods  are 
needing?  Why  pay  high  prices  to  France  for  French  Merino?  Why  let 
the  old  world,  with  the  highest  priced  land  in  existence,  give  us  object 
lessons  in  profitable  sheep  raising? 


158 CONKEY'S  STOCK  BOOK 

MADE  IN  We  have  in  America  today — made  in  America — the  best  sheep 
AMERICA  of  its  kind  in  all  the  world — the  American  Merino. 

A  LITTLE  The  sheep  in  America  has  back  of  it  as  long  a  history  as  the 
HISTORY  United  States  themselves;  and  back  of  that,  2000  years  back, 
if  you  will  go  that  far,  the  painstaking  care  of  kings,  and 
breeders  wiser  than  kings.  In  fact,  you  can't  go  back  so  far  in  history 
that  you  do  not  find  man  there  with  his  sheep.  They  are  the  oldest  of 
domestic  animals.  Even  primitive  man  found  them  useful.  Among  all 
races  we  find  them  as  an  early  standard  of  wealth.  The  sheep  is  the 
"animal  with  the  golden  hoofs,"  the  giver  of  the  "golden  fleece."  It  was 
man's  most  precious  early  possession,  and  the  highest  thing  he  could  offer 
in  sacrificial  worship. 

Sheep  were  the  first  civilizers,  by  their  very  timidity  helping  to  quell 
the  brute  in  savage  human  nature — requiring  to  be  led,  not  driven — loving 
the  gentle  shepherd  and  depending  upon  him  wholly. 

This  timid  animal  proved  hardy  by  nature,  however,  and  adapted  itself 
to  suit  man's  changing  conditions.  In  the  absence  of  shelter  it  grew  wool 
for  protection,  which  man  could  shear  in  mild  season.  If  given  little  for 
feed  it  fed  itself,  "rustling"  on  free  range.  If  given  plenty  it  turned  that 
plenty  into  juicy  flesh  to  satisfy  man's  lusty  hunger.  Preferring  a  tem- 
perate climate,  it  suited  itself  to  the  shepherd's  nomadic  nature  and  adapted 
itself  to  every  climate  and  every  livable  altitude.  With  the  coming  of 
empires  and  civilized  markets  the  shepherd's  sheep  kept  pace,  adapting 
themselves  to  fill  his  various  needs  and  luxuries. 

MUTTON          Today   then   we   have   two   great   tendencies    of   sheep,   two 

OR   WOOL?     great  classes:    the   (1)   mutton,  and  the   (2)   wool  varieties. 

Moreover,    every    mutton    breed    produces    also    some 

valuable  wool,  and  every  wool  breed  some  mutton.  While  tending,  for 
special  excellence,  one  way  or  the  other,  the  sheep  is  a  practical  sort  of 
creature  and  always  results  in  a  "dual-purpose." 

BREEDING  Now  the  world  has  need  of  many  and  various  kinds  of 
CAN  DO  IT  wool.  Sheep  respond  to  every  effort  of  the  breeder  and 
today  there  is  wool  of  a  kind  to  suit  every  different  demand 
for  manufacture.  There  are  long-wooled  breeds,  there  are  medium-wooled 
breeds  and  fine-wooled  breeds,  with  every  imaginable  cross  and  mixture. 
If  manufacturers  want  any  different  kind,  let  them  say  so  any  day  and  in 
a  very  few  sheep  generations  the  breeders  will  "deliver  the  goods"  accord- 
ing to  order. 

So  much  for  science  and  so  much  for  the  plastic  nature  of  the  sheep 
in  breeding. 

LONG-WOOLED  Leicesters,  Lincolns  and  Cotswolds  are  the  chief  of 
BREEDS  the  long-wooled  breeds. 

LEICESTERS  The  long-wooled  breeds  are  the  most  varied,  and  have  the 
greatest  average  value.  They  are  usually  hornless,  white- 
faced  animals,  somewhat  coarse  in  flesh  and  sluggish  in  movement.  They 
are  mostly  of  English  origin,  where  the  breeder  Bakewell  did  much  good 
work  to  develop  them  in  the  last  half  of  the  18th  century.  Of  the  long- 
wooled  breeds  the  Leicesters  were  the  first  to  show  results  from  intelligent 
breeding.  They  are  still  largely  used  for  grading  up  flocks.  Leicesters 


SHEEP  RAISING 


159 


are  hornless  and  have  curly  lustrous  wool  7  inches  to  8  inches  long.  Their 
bodies  are  small,  well  shaped,  thick  and  deep,  soon  grown  and  easy  to 
fatten  for  market. 


LINCOLNS  From  these  the  Lincolns  are  distinguished  by  greater  size 
and  weight,  with  wool  even  longer.  Sometimes  strands 
measure  all  of  21  inches.  Lincolns  are  much  used  in  this  country,  in  the 
northwest  especially,  for  crossing.  They  are  just  about  the  longest  legged, 
longest  carcassed  and  longest  wooled  sheep  known.  These  exaggerated 
characteristics  make  them  so  useful  in  crossing. 


Leicester,  Cotswold,  Lincoln— The  chief  Long  Wool  Breeds 

COTSWOLDS   Cotswolds  have  good  fleece,  but  not  so  long  and  not  so 
heavy    as    the    Lincoln    pelt.      The    flowing    forelock    is    a 
prominent  mark  of  the  breed.     Cotswolds   have  wonderful   hardihood. 

MEDIUM-WOOLED     The  various  Downs  are  the  medium-wooled  breeds, 
BREEDS  also  Shropshire,  Dorset  horned,  etc. 


\—s 

Medium  Wool— Oxford 


Fine  Wool— Merino 


Medium  Wool— Southdown 


SHROPSHIRE-        Medium-wooled  breeds  are  for  the  most  part  hornless 

DORSET-DOWN     and  dark  faced,  though  the  Dorset  Horned  sheep  are 

of  the  medium-wool  class.     Southdown  and  Shropshire 

are  good  examples  of  medium-wool  breeds.  The  Southdown  was  developed 
by  selection  until  a  fine  short-wooled  type  was  developed,  with  close- 
grained  tender  flesh,  making  the  type  good  for  mutton.  The  only  thing 
against  them  is  that  they  are  small.  Shropshires  are  larger  and  heavier; 
but  in  fleece  are  medium  fine  and  fairly  long.  Shropshires  are  bald  like 
the  Suffolk,  but  are  wool  capped  and  have  fetlocks.  Size  and  fleece 
they  get  from  the  Lincolns  and  Cotswold  cross  in  their  blood  with  South- 
downs.  They  are  our  chief  mutton  breed. 


160         CONKEY'S  STOCK  BOOK 

FINE  WOOLED  BREEDS  Last,  but  in  any  classification  from  the  wool- 
— MERINOS  growing  standpoint,  first  of  all,  come  the 

fine-wooled  varieties,  practically  all  of  them 
some  shape  or  form  of  Merino. 

MERINO  HISTORY      All   of   these   have   been   developed   from   the   old 
•     Spanish   Merino,  a  breed  long  held  in  monopoly 

by  the  wily  kings  and  clergy  of  Spain  in  days  of  Spanish  glory.  It  was 
by  this  breed  that  Spain  for  so  long  controlled  the  fine  wool  trade  of  the 
world.  In  fact  none  were  permitted  to  leave  the  kingdom  until  1765,  when 
300  were  sent  to  Saxony,  founding  there  the  Saxon  Merinos.  The  Eng- 
lish climate  was  a  little  hard  on  Merino  wool;  so  that  the  Merino  there 
deteriorated.  But  from  England  they  were  taken  to  Australia  and  New 
Zealand,  with  what  increase  and  development  the  whole  world  knows. 
Is  it  too  much  to  say  that  it  was  to  these  sheep  Great  Britain  owed  in 
large  part  the  wonderful  development  of  her  penal  colony  into  her  greatest 
colonial  empire?  Australia  today  produces  in  wool  756,690,163  Ibs.,  the. 
mother  country  less  than  134,000,000. 

'  No  wonder  the  Merino  "pulls  the  wool  over  our  eyes:"  although  as 
mutton  the  Merino  is  distinctly  inferior.  Meanwhile,  the  Spanish  Merinos 
sent  to  France  and  carefully  bred  there  on  different  lines,  have  produced 


Fine  Type  of  Rambouillet  Ram 

our  present  day  Rambouillet  or  French  Merino,  regarded  now  as  a  distinct 
breed  and  certainly  excellent  for  mutton  as  well  as  for  its  fine  grade  of 
wool. 

MUTTON  TYPE     In  mutton  breeds  we  look  for  depth,  length  and  regu- 
larity of  form,  with   shoulders  and  hips  well  molded, 

fleece  even.  Of  all  mutton  types  the  Lincoln  is  largest  and  heaviest. 
That  is  why  Lincolns  are  so  valuable  for  grading  a  flock  up  for  mutton. 
This  breed  is  the  earliest  maturing  of  any,  and  yields  a  9  to  11  Ib.  fleece, — 
?  good  investment  for  the  intensive  farmer.  Dorsets,  which  with  Cheviots 


SHEEP   RAISING 161 

and  Suffolks  are  included  among  the  medium  wool  varieties,  are  remark- 
able for  fertility,  and  breed  any  time  of  year.  This  makes  the  Dorset 
excellent  for  raising  winter  lambs  in  time  for  market  just  after  the  holiday 
poultry  season.  This  is  a  profitable  industry  always.  The  winter  season 
is  hard  on  breeding  ewes  and  the  lambs;  but  against  that  is  the  "better 
risk"  to  the  breeder,  in  that  there  is  no  danger  from  stomach  worms 
which  make  a  gamble  of  profit  in  summer  flocks,  unless  the  stockman  is 
exceedingly  careful  in  providing  new  pastures. 

WOOL  TYPE  The  wool  sheep,  that  is  the  Merino  varieties,  are  the 
lightest  of  all  the  improved  breeds;  also  slow  to  fatten, 
and  slow  to  mature.  On  the  other  hand  they  are  good  grazers,  will  "rustle" 
for  themselves  when  necessary,  and  adapt  themselves  to  any  climate.  But 
the  French  Merino,  the  Rambouillet,  as  stated  above,  has  been  differently 
bred  and  so  matures  much  earlier.  It  certainly  is  a  good  breed  both  for 
wool  and  for  mutton. 

THE  AMERICAN   As  early  as  1565  Spanish  sheep  were  introduced  to  this 

INDUSTRY  country  when  Menendez  the  Spanish  explorer  founded 

the  town  of  St.  Augustine  in  Florida,  the  oldest  city 

in  the  United  States.  All  through  Colonial  times  we  find  some  attention 
given  the  sheep  industry.  Sheep  were  imported  into  Jamestown  in  1609, 


A  Fine  Type  of  American  Merino 

when  the  settlement  was  only  two  years  old;  but  on  account  of  wolves  and 
other  causes  the  flocks  did  not  thrive  and  there  were  not  more  than  three 
thousand  all  told  a  half  century  later.  The  Dutch,  in  New  York  colony, 
made  importations  as  early  as  1625.  William  Penn  introduced  them  in  his 
colony  of  Pennsylvania  along  in  1683;  and  Pennsylvania  early  encouraged 
the  industry  by  fairs.  The  Swedes,  in  New  Jersey,  brought  sheep  with 
them;  and  as  early  as  1700  their  flocks  were  plentifully  sprinkled  through 
that  colony. 

But  .worse  than  wolves,  worse  than  the  hardships  of  Colonial   settle- 
ments in  winter,  were  the  jealous  taxes  levied  so  unjustly  by  the  Mother 


162 CONKEY'S  STOCK  BOOK 

Country,  England.  The  colonists  were  first  of  all  aiming  to  get  mutton 
from  their  sheep.  They  could  not  get  any  pure  stock  at  first,  and  only 
mixed  varieties  were  brought  in;  but  these  gave  a  very  satisfactory  quality 
of  meat,  and  along  with  it  a  very  fair  wool  production.  Soon  the  colonists 
were  anxious  to  weave  their  own  shearings.  But  the  anger  of  the  Mother 
Country  crashed  down  upon  them  at  this  display  of  rivalry  with  the  looms 
of  old  England.  England  wanted  a  monopoly  of  all  the  trade  from  her 
colonies;  and,  like  a  blood-sucking  parasite,  she  fastened  on  wool  manu- 
facturing. Hard  laws  were  passed,  unjust  restrictions.  It  was  no  wonder 
that  the  spirit  of  rebellion  found  so  many  united  for  it.  In  1776  the  colon- 
ists with  one  heart  and  purpose  pushed  forward  to  success  against  all 
obstacles  the  American  Revolution. 

THE  START  Meanwhile  on  the  western  slope,  undisturbed  by  his- 

IN  CALIFORNIA      tory-making    east    of    the    Alleghanies,    the    Spanish 

priests  quietly  established  their  long  chain  of  missions 

or  church  settlements  for  the  making  of  "good"  Indians  out  of  "bad" 
Indians;  set  out  their  vineyards  and  spread  their  countless  flocks  over  the 
ranges.  The  first  Spanish  sheep  were  introduced  in  1773  and  soon  seventeen 
establishments  were  in  operation  for  sheep  husbandry — all  the  property  of 
the  missions — extending  in  a  line  from  San  Diego  as  far  north  as  San  Fran- 


Telling  a  "good  mouth"—!  to  4  years 

cisco,  with  a  total  of  no  less  than  1,003,970  sheep.  In  addition  to  this  we 
can  estimate  that  fully  as  many  sheep  were  owned  by  individual  "rancheros," 
chiefly  Spanish  grandees  who  had  cast  their  lot  with  the  new  country.  This 
is  a  part  of  history  we  hear  little  of  in  the  school  books.  But  quietly, 
steadily,  the  Pacific  settlements  were  making  progress,  with  the  "good" 
Indians  to  help  them  and  only  the  "bad"  Indians  (i.  e.,  unconverted  by 
missions)  to  oppose  their  mastery  of  that  country's  rich  resources. 

NOT  "ALL  WOOL"     Humphreys,    United    States    Minister   to    Spain,    in 
1802  brought  home  from  that  country  200  Spanish 

Merinos.  These  and  other  importations  immediately  following  were  all 
of  the  finest  Spanish  flocks.  Before  long  3,850  head  of  Spanish  Merinos 
could  be  counted  among  the  enterprising  New  England  and  New  York 
breeders;  and  the  famous  Spanish  Merino  was  successfully  transplanted  to 
our  Eastern  states.  Up  to  1870  Merinos  made  up  four-fifths  of  the  sheep 
raised  in  this  country.  A  tendency  to  mutton  development  has  set  in,  how- 
ever, for  with  growing  cities  more  and  more  mutton  is  needed.  Thus 
today  we  find  that  East  of  the  Mississippi  the  coarse  wool,  or  medium  wool, 
mutton  breeds  come  up  to  the  market  requirements.  The  profitable  plan 
in  the  Eastern  section  is  to  market  wethers  at  an  early  age  and  to  fatten 
the  old  ewes  for  mutton  just  as  soon  as  they  have  passed  their  first  useful- 
ness for  breeding.  With  the  East  growing  mainly  for  mutton  and  for 
home  consumption,  there  is  practically  no  competition  with  the  Western 
rangers,  who  look  for  wool  rather  than  finest  quality  of  mutton.  In  the 
southwest  Merinos  still  hold  their  own  because  of  their  "rustling"  ability 


SHEEP  RAISING 


163 


But  in  the  northwest  the  rangers  practice  crossing  continually,  in  order 
to  maintain  a  general  purpose  medium  fine  wool  sheep,  shearing  7  to  8  Ibs., 
and  still  with  good  mutton  qualities.  In  breeding  back  and  forth  as  is 
necessary,  they  alternate  Lincolns  and  Cotswold  rams  with  Merinos. 
Lincolns  and  Cotswold  breeds  are  large  of  body,  somewhat  coarse  in 
wool;  but  they  keep  the  stock  from  getting  too  fine  for  mutton  purposes. 
Care  must  be  exercised,  however,  to  see  that  the  wool  does  not  get  too 
coarse  for  best  market  production.  The  western  ranchers  never  sacrifice 
good  wool  for  mutton. 

Today  wool  is  firm,  close  to  30c  per  Ib.  in  the  middle  west.  The  tariff 
protection  (1910)  is  lie  and  12c.  Our  last  yearly  statistics  showed  328,110,- 
749  Ibs.  output,  with  demand  much  larger.  The  market  for  mutton  and 
lamb  increases  all  the  time,  and  is  bound  to  keep  growing  so  long  as  we 
have  growing  cities. 

MINUS  Sheep  raising  in  the  United  States  flourishes  mainly  in 

THE  CORNBELT  the  middle  and  far  west,  leaving  out  the  cornbelt.    The 

1900  census  showed  62,000,000  head  with  55%  of  these 

on  western  ranges.    Montana  leads  with  6,000,000;  Wyoming,  New  Mexico, 


Shropshire  Ram  and  Ewe 

Ohio,  Utah,  Idaho,  Oregon,  California,  rank  in  the  order  named.  Roughly 
the  order  of  growth  may  be  judged  from  the  Union  Stock  Yards  receipts 
at  Chicago  for  different  years  as  follows: 

1885  1,000,000 

1890  2,000,000 

1900  3,500,000 

1902    4,500  000  (Value  $19,000,000) 

A   conservative    estimate   for   present    production    would    be    18,500,000 
head  annually,  with  a  carcass  value  of,  on  the  average,  $4.25. 

FARM  OR  RANGE     This  is  the  sheep  situation.     When  it  comes  down  to 

the  individual  problem  of  management  a  man  must 

consider  whether  his  sheep  are  to  be  put  on  farms  or  left  to  range  as  in 


164 CONKEY'S   STOCK   BOOK 

our  great  western  sections.  But  even  in  the  west  conditions  are  changing 
and  the  great  herds  of  60,000  and  up  are  rapidly  giving  way  before  general 
farming.  Sheep  thrive  on  scant  herbage,  and  do  well  in  cutdocr  conditions. 
Such  countries  as  South  America,  especially  Argentine,  Australia,  New 
Zealand  and  our  own  Western  America  are  well  adapted  to  sheep  raising. 
It  is  still  common  in  the  west  tc  meet  enormous  flocks  cf  "rustlers."  One 
herder  with  dcgs  will  often  have  in  charge  1,800  to  3,COO  sheep.  In  this  way 
expenses  are  small,  while  probable  profits  are  enormous.  But  the  game  is 
a  gamble  in  one  sense:  devastation  can  easily  overtake  such  a  flock  from 
pestilence,  drought  or  storm.  State  laws  are  growing  in  force  so  there  is 
less  danger  of  the  first  sort.  Proper  dipping  will  guard  the  flock  from  para- 
sites or  disease.  But  drought  and  storm  are  beyond  any  ranchman's  control. 
He  simply  takes  his  chances.  Sometimes  when  the  summer  has  been  dry 
and  the  stockman  knows  it  will  be  hard  to  find  all-winter  range  he  can  still 
ship  east  and  have  his  flock  fattened  for  market.  These  are  the  "feeders"  W2 
find  so  often  in  the  cornbelt;  but  they  are  transient,  and  don't  show  up  in 
the.  census,  although  they  are  there  and  the  cornbelt  growers  of  fattening 
grain  are  "there"  with  resulting  profits. 

ON  THE  FARM     The  whole  problem  is  a  different  one  for  the  sheep  man 
on  the  established  farm.     If  you  want  to  see  some  really 

tremendous  profits  just  give  these  professional  "rustlers,"  i.  e.,  sheep,  half 
a  show  on  fertile  farms  as  our  British  and  European  cousins  have  been 
doing.  In  fact  you  have  no  business  with  a  good  fertile  farm  unless  you 
see  the  business  advantage  in  adding  a  flock  of  sheep  to  make  those  acres 
more  productive. 

ALWAYS  The    sheep   industry   is   not   like   some   other   live-stock 

TWO  PROFITS      industries.      With    sheep    you    just    naturally    can't    get 

away    from    some    sort    of    "dual-purpose."      You    can't 

grow  wool  without  some  mutton;  and  you  can't  grow  good  mutton  without 
a  pretty  good  growth  of  fleece.  The  fleece  shows  the  good  natural  well- 
nourished  condition  of  the  animal.  Of  course  this  excess  of  condition  will 
tend  to  show  more  as  wool  or  mutton  according  to  the  breed's  character- 
istics. But  the  general  truth  is  clear. 

SHEEP  The  sheep  industry  calls  for  a  trifling  outlay  if  you 

GOOD  SECURITY      begin   en   a   small   scale.      Profts   are   pretty   certain. 

Banks   in    the    northwest    have    always    looked    upon 

sheep  raising  as  good  security.  Many  a  western  sheep  fortune  has  come 
from  a  flock  bought  at  the  start  with  borrowed  money.  Sheep  are  hardy 
by  nature;  good  at  roughing  it;  breed  easily  so  there  is  quick  increase. 
Their  wants  are  few,  easy  to  understand;  their  ailments  largely  preventable, 
because  mostly  of  a  parasitic  nature. 

AGAIN,  WHY?  Ohio  and  Michigan  are  famed  for  their  sheep.  But  it's 
mostly  far  east  or  far  west  you  find  them,  with  very  few 
in  the  thriving  cornbelt,  except  as  transient  feeders.  Why's  that?  You 
won't  find  the  answer  anywhere  in  this  book;  but  old  sheepmen  shut  their 
eyes  and  say  it's  a  good  business  to  grow  into,  rather  than  to  go  into,  feet 
first.  But  their  pockets  jingle  while  they  speak.  So  you  better  think  it  over. 

SCAVENGERS?  YEP!  While  its  true  that  sheep  are  "rustlers"  and  can 
AND  THEN  SOME  make  a  living  where  even  a  colt  would  starve, 

they  are  good  for  something  more  than  clearing 

weeds  and  brush-land.  Make  a  start  with  a  few  sheep,  learning  as  you  gr. 
Or  if  you  now  have  a  few,  chiefly  as  scavengers,  on  your  farm,  go  to  it  this 


SHEEP  RAISING _    165 

year  and  see  if  there  isn't  room  for  at  least  100%  more.  You'll  get  fleece, 
lambs  and  mutton  for  your  trouble. 

COST  TO  FEED  One  man  in  the  central  west  got  49  ewes  to  start 

50  sheep  $100  with»  ancl  *  good  ram,  making  a  flock  of  50.     From 

60  lambs    52  these  he  raised  60  lambs,  which  is  a  low  estimate. 

These  60  lambs  he  sold  at  $6.00  per  head,  netting 

Total    $152  f°r  lambs  $360.     From  his  50  sheep  he  sheared  400 

Profit    in    wool  Ibs.  °f  wool,  which  is  a  fair  estimate.    This  he  sold 

400  Ibs.  at23c.$  92  at  tne  then  market  price  of  23c,  netting  for  wool 

60  lambs  $6 360  $92.00.     It  cost  him  for  grain  and  pasture  for  the 

,  flock   of   50   sheep   $100,   grain   for   the   lambs   $52. 

Xotal    $452  His   total   expense    (not  counting  labor)   was  $152. 

Less  feed               152  He  sti11  nad  nis  flock  of  sheep,  and  in  the  bank  an 
extra  $300. 

Profit  $300  (Actual  figures  "E.  K."  in  Indiana  Farmer.) 

HOME  GROWN  FEED—  Here's  another  man  with  a  320  acre  farm,  rais- 
"Side  Issue"  Profit  $677  ing  grain,  with  sheep  just  as  a  "side  issue." 

From  80  ewes  he  clipped  wool  to  the  tune  of 

$120.  From  80  ewes  he  raised  80  lambs,  which  he  fattened  for  market  on 
screenings,  weight  90  Ibs.  at  6c  per  lb.,  the  80  lambs  bringing  $432.  This 
careful  farmer  found  also  evenly  distributed  over  his  farm  the  most  valu- 
able of  all  live-stock  manure,  which  he  estimated  at  25  tons  and  $5  a  ton, 
making  an  increase  to  his  land  of  $125  value.  Friend  E.  K.  didn't  give  his 
flock  any  credit  for  distributing  fertilizer;  but  we  know  he  got  the  benefit 
on  his  land.  There  can't  be  any  real  farming  without  this  valuable  return 
to  the  soil;  and  scientists  all  give  credit  to  sheep  for  giving  back  80%  of 
what  they  get  out  of  it  in  grazing. 

HOW  TO  START   For  the  average  farmer  10  or  a  dozen  ewes  will  be  best 
to   start   with,   purchased    from   good   healthy    nearby 

stock.  Then  he  can  increase  from  year  to  year  until  his  flock  is  of  the 
size  that  he  can  best  handle.  Let  him  combine  with  some  neighbor  to 
market  his  wool  and  lambs — until  such  time  as  he  has  50  or  60  ewes.  The 
wool  and  lambs  from  this  size  flock  can  always  be  marketed  to  advantage. 
To  end  with  success  start  out  with  vigorous  lambs.  Select  good  strong 
mothers  for  the  breeding  flock, — good  milkers  and  such  as  have  a  dense 
fleece  that  will  give  the  breeding  animal  plenty  of  protection.  It  is  well 
not  to  keep  a  breeding  ewe  after  she  is  too  old  to  make  thrifty  gains  in 
return  for  feed  and  care.  In  selecting  ewes,  pick  out  those  that  run 
quickly  and  show  physical  exuberance.  It's  good  to  see  a  young  ewe  that 
gives  an  occasional  leap  up  into  the  air  just  because  she  feels  like  it.  Don't 
sell  her.  She'll  bring  vigorous  offspring.  Never  sell  anyone  your  best — 
the  best  is  only  good  enough  for  you.  Sell  your  poorest.  Look  over  the 
flock  and  cull  the  ewes  showing  poor  teeth  or  marks  of  poor  breeding,  or 
those  you  know  are  not  good  milkers  at  lambing.  Remember  this  is 
where  it's  true  that  most  of  the  labor  in  caring  for  sheep  is  head  \vork,  not 
with  hands. 

GOING  UP!    When   you've    started    right   keep    on   going.      Stick   to   the 
breed  you  selected.     You  can  grade  up,  up.     It  doesn't  take 
long  to  breed   a  flock  to   a  high    standard — mostly   headwork   again,    not 
physical  labor, 


166 CONKEY'S  STOCK  BOOK 

BREED  OUT  Start  with  vigorous  stock.  Then  use  only  the  best  of 
THE  FAULTS  rams.  Put  as  much  value  as  you  can  into  the  ram, — not 
always  a  highly  fitted  prize  winner,  pampered  and  per- 
haps weakened  in  vigor  in  order  to  make  a  good  outside  show.  But  don't 
stop  until  you  can  get  what  you  consider  the  best  ram  in  your  parts  for 
breeding  purposes.  Every  sheep  has  a  fault.  But  when  your  whole  flock 
shows  up  some  uniform  fault  select  the  ram  you  need  and  correct  it. 

Read  page  6  again.  Breeding  is  not  an  "exact  science,"  but  there  is  a 
fair  degree  of  mathematical  certainty  in  it.  So,  breed  in  good  qualities,  and 
breed  out  the  faults  that  cheapen  your  flock. 

RAM  AND  EWES  Good  breeders  estimate  from  30  to  50  ewes  to  each 
ram,  depending  on  individual  quality  and  also  condi- 
tion. No  matter  how  high  the  ram's  individual  quality  he  must  also  be 
in  perfect  physical  condition,  well  fed  and  vigorous.  A  tonic  and  appetizer 
in  the  feed,  like  Conkey's  Stock  Vigor,  is  ideal  for  putting  and  keeping 
the  animal  in  just  the  right  fettle. 

HOW  TO  TELL      He  must  have  a  bold  carriage,  and  in  his  face  a  strong, 

A  GOOD  RAM          "sirey"  look.  Muzzle  and  nose  will  be  broad,  showing 

a  good   breather  and  feeder.     A  short  powerful   neck 

with  deep,  roomy  chest;  back  broad,  strong  looking;  broad  and  deep 
loins,  supporting  plenty  of  best  cut  of  meat;  strong  legs,  not  stilty.  You 
don't  want  to  see  the  landscape  under  your  sheep,  that  space  might  just 
as  well  be  mutton. 

GOOD  LAMBS  Strong  lambs  come  from  care  of  the  winter  flock.  Good 
winter  shelter,  not  too  warm  but  dry  and  out  of  the 
wind,  with  plenty  of  bedding  and  plenty  of  ventilation, — this  sums  up  the 
first  big  factor  in  the  sheepman's  success.  The  second  is  proper  attention 
to  the  ewes  when  lambing. 

LAMBING  As  with  all  farm  animals  the  flock  master  will  watch  the 
breeding  animals;  have  a  record  of  each  (ewes  require  150 
days  gestation)  and  when  time  for  delivering  their  young,  will  separate 
each  animal  and  keep  on  the  alert  to  give  any  necessary  attention.  Loss 
of  lambs  has  been  estimated  to  be  due  mainly  to  cold  (40%)  and  lack  of 
milk  (30%).  Provide  good  shelter  for  the  ewes  at  lambing.  And  in  select- 
ing breeding  ewes  look  for  good  mothers, — not  the  short  pudgy  type  but 
rather  rangy,  good  feeders,  good  milkers,  and  fitted  out  with  a  dense 
fleece,  as  this  will  insure  the  breeding  animals  protection.  For  a  month 
before,  feed  the  ewes  rich  protein  food,  see  section  on  Feeds  and  Feeding, 
especially  pages  50  and  51.  Make  them  take  plenty  of  exercise.  Clover  hay 
and  corn  silage  make  good  roughage.  For  concentrated  food,  oats,  corn 
and  bran  are  better  mixed  than  when  fed  alone.  If  you  must  feed  only  one, 
oats  are  best.  Corn  tends  to  fat,  makes  weak  lambs,  and  little  milk. 

SAVING  LAMBS      If  a   lamb   is   chilled   it   can   be   saved   by  plunging   in 
warm  water,  wiping  dry  with  a  rough  towel  and  put- 
ting in  a  nice  warm  place,  then  giving  it  warm  milk.     For  the  June  market 


SHEEP  RAISING 167 

lambs  are  best  dropped  about  the  middle  of  February  to  March  1st,  when 
the  backbone  of  winter  is  broken.  There  is  less  danger  of  loss  of  lambs 
in  mild  weather  but  of  course  big  profits  come  from  winter  or  "hot-house" 
lambs, — worth  as  high  as  $15.00  in  January,  but  in  May  worth  about  $3.00. 
Dorsets  are  the  star  winter  lamb  performers;  for  they  are  the  most  fertile 
breed  that  we  know,  produce  many  twins  and  will  breed  almost  any  time 
of  the  year;  so  that  the  flock  owner  c?n  meet  any  market.  Have  you  studied 
the  English  system  of  "flushing"  before  breeding?  See  page  51. 

STARTING  LAMBS     Lambs   must  get   a  good   start  with   their   dams   if 
ever  they  are  to  show  big  profit.     Lack  of  milk  is 

one  cause  of  great  loss  of  lambs.  No  after  feeding  will  make  up  if  they  fail 
to  thrive  at  the  start.  Lambs  orphaned  or  "not  owned"  by  their  mothers 
can  be  given  good  foster  mothers;  or  if  necessary  brought  up  by  hand,  on 
cow's  milk  in  a  nursing  bottle. 

DOCKING —  Lambs  are  docked  when  a  few  days  or  a  week  old,  and 
CASTRATING  the  male  lambs  castrated  then,  as  wounds  to  the  tender 
flesh  heal  quickly  without  much  pain  to  the  animal.  The 
knife  used  should  be  dipped  in  a  solution  of  Conkey's  Nox-i-cide  Dip  and 
Disinfectant  to  guard  against  any  infection. 

WEANED  LAMBS  Best  gains  come  where  the  little  lambs  are  accus- 
tomed to  grain  meal  from  the  start,  so  that  wean- 
ing is  easily  accomplished.  Lambs  weaned  in  summer  should  always  have 
untouched  pasture  so  as  to  avoid  infection  from  stomach  worms.  Stomach 
worms  are  sure  to  follow  if  old  sheep  and  young  lambs  both  have  the  same 
pasture.  Read  page  185.  Also  read  carefully  page  50  on  feeding  lambs. 

MARKET  Mutton:  Each  graded  according  to  (1)  quality,  (2)  condition, 
CLASSES  (3)  weight,  and  (4)  form — 

Lambs 

Yearlings 

Wethers 

Ewes 

Bucks 

Stags 

Feeders:     Almost  exclusively  Western;  graded  for  (1)  quality,  (2)  form, 

(3)  condition,  and  (4)  weight — 

Lambs 
Yearlings 
Wethers 
Ewes 

Breeders:     Graded   according   to   (1)    age,    (2)    constitution,    (3)    form, 

(4)  breeding,  (5)  quality,  and  (6)  condition — 

Bucks. 


168 CONKEY'S  STOCK  BOOK 

MARKETING  It  won't  pay  to  send  skinny,  half-fat  lambs  to  market. 
Besides,  it's  easy  to  get  lambs  fat,  and  30  Ibs.  nice  and 
plump,  rightly  "dressed,"  and  with  plenty  of  caul  to  protect  it,  will  show 
bigger  money  than  40  Ibs.  lean  in  flesh,  small  kidneys,  and  with  a  scanty, 
veil-like  caul  for  covering.  So  don't  fail  to  finish  your  lambs  properly  for 
market.  It's  this  extra  care  just  in  the  finishing  that  counts.  For  instance, 
the  rest  of  the  flock  will  do  nicely  through  the  winter  even  if  they  don't 
get  grain  in  their  ration.  But  put  plenty  of  grain-fat  on  your  lambs  if 
they  are  intended  for  that  early  market.  Silage  and  hay  alone  won't  make 
a  lamb  that  tops  the  market.  But  silage  with  alfalfa  or  clover  hay  and 
grain  will  do  it.  Silage  is  useful  for  fattening  some.  But  don't  use  in  too 
large  amount.  Practical  feeders  say  2l/2  Ibs.  per  day  is  the  limit.  It  is 
possible  to  fatten  on  a  cheap  ration  without  grain;  for  instance,  alfalfa, 
turnips  and  oil-meal.  But  read  the  section  on  Feeds  and  Feeding. 

KEEP  YOUR  BEST     Don't  market  your  fine  and  fat  ewe  lamb.     Keep 
her  even  if  you  do  miss  a  good  price.     You'll  be 

glad  you  saved  her  from  the  block  when  she  is  two  years  old  and  you 
begin  to  get  your  reward  in  other  lambkin  duplicates  of  herself.  It  would 
be  different  if  it  were  easy  to  go  out  and  get  good  ewes  for  breeding — but 
you  can't  always  tell  just  what  you  are  getting.  Always  look  over  the 
flock  before  winter  comes,  and  cull  out  the  old  fat  sheep  and  let  the 
butcher  have  them  while  their  weight  is  up.  Always  keep  your  best. 

The  Wool  Side  of  Sheep 

A  PERFECT  A  perfect  fleece!  It  is  a  certificate  of  health  and  an  adver- 
FLEECE  tisement  of  the  sheepman's  good  care  and  management. 

Even    growth   means    even    management.      And    the    sheep 
isn't  the  only  one  who  gains  or  loses! 

A  SHEEP'S  He  keeps  it  every  day;  and  whatever  the  record,  he  can 
DIARY  never  erase  it.  He  uses  it  chiefly  to  tell  his  troubles,  setting 

down  every  hardship,  every  period  of  suffering,  every  blight 
of  season  or  disease.  Anyone  who  knows  can  read  it,  and  the  expert  wool- 
buyer  always  knows  the  language.  See  him  test  the  wool  of  your  sheep, 
passing  his  hand  over  it  for  closeness  and  evenness,  stretching  a  lock  and 
looking  to  see  it  "break."  No  need  to  look  under  the  microscope.  The 
story  is  told;  and  if  there  are  weak  spots  in  the  fibre  of  the  wool,  the 
fleece  is  put  aside  as  worthless  or  given  only  a  poor  grade.  That  "break" 
has  told  the  story. 

"BREAKS"  ARE      Each  fibre  of  wool  is  the  sheep's  diary.     As  it  grows 

WEAK  SPOTS         out  of  the  skin  it  registers  the  animal's  condition.     In 

its  actual   structure  it  changes  with  health  or  disease.' 

A  "break"  or  weak  spot  shows  hardship.  Going  without  water  for  several 
days  in  hot  dry  weather  will  every  time  show  this  "break"  in  the  staple. 

Your  sheep's  back  isn't  all  one  grade  of  wool — far  from  it.  It  must 
be  sorted.  Only  the  wool  from  the  center  sides  is  really  first  choice;  at 
the  top  and  back  it  is  coarser,  grading  back  to  the  breach,  where  it  is  very 
much  inferior  though  better  than  the  fleece  on  belly  and  brisket.  The  leg 
wool  is  often  useless.  Study  the  diagrams  carefully. 


SHEEP   RAISING 


Look  well   to  the  fleece  of  the   ram  with  which  you  cross  your   flock. 
The  wool-buyer  running  his  hand  over  the  fleece  will  detect  every  difference. 


HEAD 


J.EG 


Grades  of  Fleece—  (1)  As  roughly  graded  on  the  hoof.     (2)  As  carefully  graded  on  the 
wool-sorters'  diagram. 

Evenness  of  size  and  appearance  is  mostly  a  matter  of  feeding;  but 
careful  sorting  of  the  flock  before  marketing  will  help  to  make  this  better, 
more  "uniform"  appearance.  You  can  do  this  if  you  make  a  single  file 
lane  or  alley,  with  a  shunting  gate;  so  that  you  can  easily  pass  the  animals 
along  into  one  compartment  or  another,  according  as  you  wish  to  examine 
them.  Climate  affects  the  fleece.  Very  hard  winters  make  the  wool  coarse 
and  more  irregular,  with  a  short  undergrowth.  Constant  wetting  dries 
out  the  "yolk,"  and  the  wool  lacks  life  and  lustre.  Wash  the  sheep  one 
week  cr  two  before  shearing.  It  will  then  be  clean  but  regain  sufficient 
"yolk"  for  good  market  condition.  Best  not  shear  the  little  lamb,  though 
some  do  it.  Better  let  it  have  its  full  unshorn  fleece  to  temper  its  first 
winter.  Besides,  the  fleece  of  the  yearling  is  always  the  best. 


(DA  lock  of  wool,  (2,  3)  sharp  hooks  which  give  Healthy  and  unhealthy  fibres  of  wool, 

strength  and  density  to  the   spun  and  woven  Notice  the  tell-tale  "break." 

thread,  (4)  kink  or  tw;st  in  fibre,  which  makes 
possible  a  long,  strong  thread. 

Fleece  is  frequently  injured  by  the  kind  of  preparations  used  in  dipping. 
Some  old-fashioned  "safe"  dips  are  exceedingly  dangerous.  Read  carefully 
page  173  about  Dips  and  Dipping.  Conkey's  Nox-i-cide  Dip  and  Disinfectant, 
see  page  207,  cures  scabs  and  exterminates  the  sheep  tick,  does  not  curl, 
burn  or  stain  the  wool,  as  do  lime,  arsenic  and  tobacco  preparations. 

Fleeces  have  always  been  a  large  part  of  the  merchandising  of  the 
world.  It  is  *hp  spiral  fibre  or  twist  that  gives  the  wool  its  wonderful 


170  CONKEY'S  STOCK  BOOK 

value.  And  the  finer  the  wool  the  more  it  is  serrated,  that  is,  furnished 
with  little  hooks  or  points;  in  Saxony  wool  there  are  as  many  as  2,800  of 
these  little  hooks  (see  illustration)  to  one  inch,  in  fine  Southdown  wool 
2,000,  in  Leicester  1,800,  etc.  The  twist  is  necessary  in  spinning  a  thread. 
The  fine,  almost  innumerable  little  hooks  on  the  scales  help  to  make  a 
dense  firm  fabric.  In  the  finished  cloth  this  smooth  matted  surface  must 
be  roughened  or  given  a  velvety  nap  by  passing  over  it  burs  or  teasels, 
exactly  as  in  ancient  times  they  used  the  burs  of  the  plant  called  "fuller's 
teazel."  Wool  may  be  spun  into  thread  so  fine  that  one  pound  of  the 
finest  would  spin  out  100  miles. 

Of  course,  Merino  wool  is  the  finest;  and  the  different  breeds  of 
Merino  vary.  The  life  or  glisten  also  varies.  In  general  the  long  and 
lustrous  wooled  varieties,  Lincolns,  Leicesters,  etc.,  have  not  the  kink  for 
spinning  or  the  numerous  clinging  hooks  which  make  the  different  Merinos 
so  valuable  for  fine  weaving.  All  varieties  are  needed,  as  there  are  different 
classes  of  demand  in  manufacture.  It  is  just  a  question  for  each  grower 
which  breed  is  best  suited  to  his  conditions  and  to  his  available  market. 

England  likes  to  furnish  us  with  her  lustrous  wools.  France  charges 
us  high  prices  for  the  exquisitely  fine  dress  goods  she  makes  from  her 
fine  French  Merinos.  Both  of  these  countries  find  wool  growing  a  profit- 
able industry  on  land  which  is  the  highest  priced  per  acre  of  any  in  exist- 
ence. In  fact  over  all  Europe  sheep  are  the  very  basis  of  successful 
agriculture. 

Why  are  there  then  in  the  United  States  so  many  sheepless  farmers? 

Right  Care  of  Sheep 

Watch  health  conditions  at  every  turn.  As  we  have  seen,  ill  health 
affects  even  the  wool  of  the  sheep.  These  animals  are  hardy,  but  when 
real  misfortune  comes  they  succumb  to  it  quickly. 

FRESH  AIR  In  the  matter  of  care,  the  first  big  thing  to  take  note  of 
is  that  sheep  need  fresh  air.  No  other  kind  of  air  will  do. 
Better  no  house  at  all  than  one  that  is  close  and  stuffy,  where  parasites 
breed  until  the  fleece  falls  out,  and  colds  and  catarrh  result  from  the 
smothering  heat  of  crowded  bodies. 

Sheep  will  not  stand  overcrowding.  In  winter  shelter  there  should 
be  about  12  sq.  ft.  for  each  sheep. 

The  sheepfold  must  be  ventilated,  but  must  also  be  free  from  any 
draught. 

Why  do  sheep  need  more  air  than  other  livestock? 

WINTER  In  the  first  place  they  are  descended  from  mountain  and  free 
SHELTER  range  ancestors,  and  their  bodies  are  constructed  for  this 
activity,  which  takes  full  breathing.  Then,  although  so  hardy, 
they  have  weaker  constitutions  than  any  other  farm  animal;  so  that  any 
interference  with  the  lungs  and  breathing  quickly  leads  to  other  disorders. 
One  of  the  most  critical  times  for  the  sheep  farmer  is  when  his  flocks  are 
brought  in  from  the  fields  and  put  into  winter  shelter.  Some  farmers 
forget  that,  winter  or  summer,  sheep  must  have  plentiful  fresh  air.  Better 
a  rough  shed  than  a  house,  if  the  house  isn't  properly  ventilated.  Whether 
a  shed  or  a  house,  the  important  thing  is  to  have  it  always  dry,  out  of 
the  wind,  and  plentifully  bedded. 


CARE  OF  SHEEP 171 

DRY  COLD  Cold  doesn't  matter — not  to  a  sheep  in  his  winter  woolens! 
IS  SAFE  Cold  is  what  stimulates  the  fleece  to  grow.  But  there  must 

be  no  moisture,  and  no  draught.  Windows  should  be  close 
up  to  the  eaves  to  guard  against  draughts.  A  good  plan  is  to  run  the  shed 
north  and  south  with  windows  at  each  end,  thus  avoiding  east  and  west 
exposures.  When  the  wind  blows  from  the  north  make  that  end  tight, 
and  open  the  shed  at  the  south  end  for  ventilation;  and  when  it  blows 
from  the  south,  vice  versa.  Have  the  roof  sound,  or  rain  and  snow  will 
soak  the  fleece.  Ordinary  snowfall  the  sheep  can  easily  shake  off  from 
the  outer  fleece,  so  that  it  never  wets  the  skin.  But  if  the  whole  shaggy 
suit  of  wool  is  matted  and  wet  there  is  nothing  for  it  but  to  let  the  heavy 
fleece  slowly  dry  on  them.  You  can  imagine  just  how  this  feels — or  if 
you  have  no  imagination  just  put  on  several  heavy  woolen  suits  and  jump 
in  an  ice  bath  in  freezing  weather,  then  stand  outdoors  while  you  "dry  off." 
Breeds  with  long  open  wools,  parting  clear  to  the  skin  along  the  line  of 
the  back,  should  never  be  exposed  to  snow,  or  wet  conditions.  Then  too 
a  wet  fleece  loses  its  "yolk"  or  "oily  substance."  The  wet,  cold  animals 
crowd  up  together,  heating  and  matting  the  fleece,  pressing  it  into  "felt," 
destroying  its  weaving  value.  It  becomes  "cotted,"  as  we  call  it. 

SEPARATE  PENS     And  while  making  that  winter  shelter,  just  separate 
it  into  convenient  pens  or  apartments,  with  movable 

gates.  You'll  find  plenty  of  reasons  for  doing  so  when  you  make  ready  to 
feed  and  want  to  work  in  one  pen  without  bother  and  without  damaging 
the  fleece  with  falling  chaff,  etc.  Then  later  on  you'll  want  to  separate  the 
breeding  ewes  from  those  to  be  fattened.  Or  you'll  want  to  separate  the 
lambs  according  to  ages,  or  pen  off  a  part  of  your  flock  for  a  buyer  or 
butcher.  Penning  has  many  advantages. 

FEED  RACKS      Racks  for  feeding  save  time  and  trouble.     Also  put  up 
a  permanent  trough  for  salt  and  preparations  to  hinder 
internal  parasites,  such  as  the  excellent  formula  given  on  page  46. 

Don't  feed  too  frequently  in  the  same  place,  as  the  breath  will  spoil 
the  food,  making  it  unpalatable.  It  is  necessary  to  use  Conkey's  Nox-i-cide 
Dip  and  Disinfectant  regularly  to  disinfect  all  racks  and  troughs  used  in 
feeding  sheep  if  you  expect  to  keep  the  flock  from  contagion.  More  about 

disinfecting  on  page  125. 

r 

THE  FLOOR  Feeding  racks  for  sheep  on  farms  should  be  carefully  con- 
PLAN  structed.  Many  sheepmen  favor  a  long  shed  plan  for  a 

sheep-house  with  racks  in  the  center  where  all  can  get  at 
them.  This  plan  gives  a  good  area  and  is  cheaper  to  build  than  the  square 
or  round  barn  type.  If  you  want  double  capacity,  make  it  double  deck — 
sinking  the  first  floor  about  three  feet  below  the  surface  of  the  ground, 
raising  the  second  floor  about  four  feet  above  the  ground,  thus  giving 
room  for  a  man  to  stand  upright  in  the  lower  part.  Make  runways  to 
each  floor  for  the  sheep.  You  will  find  this  plan  highly  satisfactory  in 
practice.  Sheep  don't  need  costly  housing.  A  light  structure  with  plenty 
of  floor  space  will  always  answer.  Of  course  a  square  building  gives  more 
floor  space  than  a  long  narrow  building.  The  octagon  and  round  style' 
give  most  of  all.  Round  buildings  are  expensive.  But  did  you  ever 
investigate  an  octagon*  style  and  see  how  .strong-  and  cheap  it  is  for 
building?  '**  >  *;*- 

' 


172  CONKEY'S  STOCK   BOOK 

THE  GOOD  Sheep  are  easily  frightened,  in  fact,  are  very  high  strung 
SHEPHERD  animals.  The  good  shepherd  keeps  them  contented.  This 
is  the  only  way  to  get  maximum  production  from  the  flock. 
Frequently  a  great  cause  for  discontent  on  farms  is  irregular  feeding — 
this  is  true  of  all  animals.  Any  animal  can  easily  fret  off  more  than  the 
delayed  meal  can  put  on.  Besides,  this  isn't  fair  treatment. 

WATER      Be  sure  to  give  the  sheep  water  that  is  fresh  and  clean.     Give 
plenty.     They   will  thrive   if  watered   only   once  a  day;   but  the 
gain  is  way  out  of  proportion   if  they   have   free   access   to  water  and   can 
get  it  anytime. 

If  watered  from  troughs,  don't  let  these  become  icy;  but  after  sheep 
are  through  drinking  turn  each  trough  over.  If  sheep  are  allowed  to  drink 
icy  water  their  bodies  soon  become  chilled.  This  lowers  the  natural  vigor 
and  takes  more  feed  to  warm  up.  Sheep  are  easy  victims  to  chilled 
stomachs.  Ewes  often  lose  their  lambs  from  this  one  cause. 

SALT  Keep  salt  before  the  flock.  It  is  about  as  necessary  as  food.  Too 
little  in  the  blood  shows  relaxation.  If  where  the  sheep  can  help 
themselves  anytime  they  won't  overeat  it.  Salt  helps  to  keep  down  internal 
parasites.  Better  attention  to  salting  would  cut  down  about  half  the  present 
trouble  with  these  pests. 

Read  page  46  for  a  good  formula  for  a  home  made  medicated  stock  salt 
that  is  an  ideal  conditioner  for  sheep.  It  is  easy  to  make  and  costs  less 
than  2*/2  cents  a  pound.  This  simple  conditioner  will  practically  insure  the 
flock  from  internal  parasites. 

PARASITES  Parasites,  both  internal  and  external,  favor  sheep.  They 
are  the  big  enemy  to  sheepmen's  profits.  Under  diseases 
we  discuss  this  big  subject  fully.  Here  is  a  special  caution:  Treat  the 
collie  at  regular  intervals  for  intestinal  worms  or  he  will  pass  this  infesta- 
tion over  to  your  flock  and  soon  they  will  be  having  Gid  or  Staggers. 
Conkey's  Worm  Drops  are  the  specific  dog  worm  remedy.  A  collie  dog 
with  worms  is  the  worst  natural  enemy  to  your  sheep.  Treatment  must 
be  regular,  every  two  months,  and  of  course  the  dog  must  be  tied  up  away 
from  the  flock  during  the  treatment. 

DISINFECTING  Remember,  for  all  disease,  the  old  warning  is  the  best 
advice — Prevention:  Disinfect  their  quarters,  using 
Conkey's  Nox-i-cide  Dip  and  Disinfectant.  Sprinkle  all  corners  or  hedge 
bottoms  where  they  gather  in  hot  weather.  This  will  sweeten  the  ground, 
and  tend  to  keep  healthy  their  hoofs. 

DIPPING  In  most  of  the  Western  States  the  use  of  a  dip  is  enforced. 
Sheep  are  not  admitted  to  national  range  unless  certified  free 
from  disease,  or  dipped  according  to  legal  requirement.  It  is  believed 
that  combined  efforts  like  this  will  practically  stamp  out  the  terrible  scab 
disease.  In  Montana,  if  animals  with  contagious  diseases,  such  as  lip 
or  leg  ulceration,  etc.,  are  net  promptly  treated  after  due  notice,  they  are 
taken  up  by  the  state,  and  the  state  veterinarian  treats  them  at  the  cost  of 
the  owner.  Loss  from  sheep  scab  is  great  only  where  treatment  is  neglected. 
It  is  easily  cured  at  the  simple  cost  of  Conkey's  Nox-i-cide  Dip  and  Disin- 
fectant, used  as  directed. 


CARE  OF  SHEEP 173 

Dipping,  twice  a  year  is  possible,  is  really  indispensable  to  the  health 
and  comfort  of  the  flock.  The  improved  condition  of  the  fleece  will  alone 
repay  every  dollar  spent  in  dipping  when  Conkey's  Nox-i-cide  Dip  and 
Disinfectant  is  the  liquid  used.  But  dipping  does  even  more  than  this  for 
sheep.  Where  the  dip  is  an  antiseptic,  such  as  Conkey's  Nox-i-cide  Dip 
and  Disinfectant  is,  it  does  a  good  deal  more  than  merely  clean  the  skin, 
cure  scab,  remove  the  scab  mite,  ticks,  lice  and  fungoid  parasites  of  the 
wool.  It  opens  the  pores,  and  helps  the  body  get  rid  of  the  poisons  in 
the  blood.  It  increases  the  general  health  as  well  as  bodily  comfort  of  the 
animal.  It  improves  the  wool.  Not  all  dips  can  be  safely  used,  as  .some 
will  injure  the  wool  on  account  of  their  acrid  nature,  or  if,  not  harmful  in 
this  point  will  stain  it  and  thus  spoil  its  market  value.  Of  course  avoid 
dangerous  lime  and  sulphur  mixtures,  or  those  with  arsenic  in  them  which 
will  injure  the  sheep  if  they  chance  to  get  any  in  their  mouths  while  dipping; 
and  which  are  almost  sure  to  injure  the  lambs  if  the  ewes  are  not  thor- 
oughly dry  before  the  lambs  have  access  to  them.  This  applies  to  tobacco 
dips  also,  and  besides  tobacco  dips  spoil  the  wool. 

THE  DIPPING    A  convenient  size  for  the  dip  trough  for  a  small  flock 
TROUGH  is  12  ft.,  with  slanting  sides,  so  that  bottom  of  trough  is 

about  8  inches,  while  the  top  is  thirty,  deep  enough  to 
keep  the  whole  animal  under  except  the  head.  Keep  the  dip  at  a  tempera- 
ture of  100-110  degrees.  Of  course  when  fresh  water  is  added  for  tempera- 
ture the  right  proportion  of  the  Dip  and  Disinfectant  must  also  be  added. 
From  the  trough  the  sheep  goes  to  a  detaining  pen  with  sloping  floor 
running  back  to  the  trough,  so  that  all  liquid  draining  from  the  animal 
will  run  back  to  the  dip  vat. 

NO  HARM  TO  With  Conkey's  Nox-i-cide  Dip  and  Disinfectant  there 

LAMB  OR  SHEEP  is  no  danger  to  nursing  lambs,  as  the  mixture  will  not 
even  nauseate  the  animals.  If  the  sheep  itself  swal- 
lows a  mouthful  or  two,  so  much  the  better,  for  its  properties  are  also 
antiseptic  and  will  help  to  kill  internal  germs  and  heal  any  diseased  places. 
It  will  set  up  coughing  and  sneezing  if  a  little  gets  into  the  nostrils  and 
so  help  to  dislodge  the  bot-fly.  Used  after  shearing  Conkey's  Nox-i-cide 
Dip  and  Disinfectant  will  heal  any  cuts.  After  shearing  is  the  time  some 
farmers  dip;  as  it  is  far  more  economical  than  when  the  whole  heavy  fleece 
must  be  soaked  up  in  the  dip  liquid.  Shorn  sheep  with  any  cuts  in  the  skin 
from  shearing  are  exposed  to  blow-flies,  arid  consequent  serious  trouble 
Conkey's  Nox-i-cide  Dip  and  Disinfectant  heals  such  places. 

FLIES  In  summer,  flies  are  the  terrible  sheep  enemy,  especially  summer 
blow-flies.  Much  can  be  done  to  lessen  trouble  by  proper  care 
of  the  rumps,  cleaning  and  clipping  the  filthy  locks  and  treating  with  the 
same  disinfectant  solution.  Dipping  every  six  to  eight  weeks  during  the 
season  will  act  as  a  fly  preventive.  Or  the  Fly  Knocker  can  be  used  on 
face  and  hindquarters,  which  are  most  liable  to  attack.  Some  sheepmen 
plough  up  the  earth  so  the  animals  can  grovel  their  noses  for  safety, 
which  seems  to  be  their  instinctive  means  of  protection.  Daubing  the 
sheep's  nose  with  common  tar,  is  a  good  practice;  especially  if  the  tar  is 
softened  up  with  Conkey's  Fly  Knocker,  which  destroys  any  eggs  in  the 
nostril  and  will  keep  the  bot-fly  from  alighting  again.  The  sheep  muzzles 
should  be  smeared  every  second  or  third  day  with  this  preparation.  See 
more  about  these  bots  or  gid  flies  on  page  180  under  Diseases. 


174 __ CQNKEY'S  STOCK  BOOK 

FENCING  In  summer  make  sure  that  you  have  the  farm  well  fenced. 
Fencing  is  necessary  because  sheep  don't  get  on  well  with 
other  farm  animals,  and  should  never  come  in  contact  with  hogs  in  par- 
ticular. Use  woven  wire,  not  barbed.  Barbed  wire  damages  the  fleece 
and  frequently  wounds  the  animals,  making  them  more  liable  to  infection. 
Besides,  barbed  wire  doesn't  keep  out  dogs.  What  you  want  is  a  dog- 
proof  fence — the  better  returns  at  lambing  season  will  pay  for  it  time  and 
time  over.  Dogs  run  and  chase  the  sheep,  and  the  flock  frets  off  its 
gains  in  fleece  and  flesh  fast  as  you  can  put  it  on.  You  don't  always 
know  when  this  is  going  on.  Watch  the  dogs  at  night.  Sheep  never  bleat 
out  their  troubles  except  in  hunger  or  loneliness.  You  might  never  know 
the  dogs  were  chasing  and  running  them,  but  up  and  down,  up  and  down, 
all  night  long  they  may  go,  frightened  and  wounded,  but  fleeing  in  silence. 
Breeding  ewes  badly  frightened  rarely  ever  recover  entirely. 

KEEPS  Another  reason  fencing  pays  for  itself,  is  because  you 

PASTURE  FRESH     can  do  with  less  acreage;  always  keeping  some  pas- 
ture   untouched   for   lambs   at   weaning.      Change    of 

pasture  is  good  for  sheep.  If  you  have  to  do  with  one  pasture,  then  divide 
that,  letting  the  sheep  graze  two  weeks  in  each  half.  This  keeps  it  fairly 
fresh,  whereas  the  other  way  the  flinty  hoofs  would  soon  pound  out  every 
living  blade.  More  fencing  and  better  will  in  time  lead  to  more  sheep  in 
the  country — and  better.  At  present  in  the  leading  agricultural  states  of 
the  United  States  there  are  not  over  25  sheep  to  each  1000  acres.  Great 
Britain  has  300  to  every  square  mile.  No  wonder  the  farm  economists  are 
preaching  more  sheep  to  American  farmers. 

MORE  SHEEP!     Even   with   intensive    farming  you   can   give   the    sheep 
some   show   of   range.     Utilize   the  fence   corners.     Let 

them  into  the  weed  lot  and  brush  lot.  They  will  make  good  mutton,  and 
in  the  meantime  help  you  to  clear  the  land.  Let  them  into  the  stubble  field, 
where  they  can  pick  up  the  scattered  grain  that  would  otherwise  go  to 
waste.  Every  little  helps  in  the  problem  of  thrifty  farming.  Sheep  con- 
sume classes  of  feed  that  other  livestock  neglect  entirely.  The  sheep  is  a 
natural  optimist  and  will  pick  up  a  plunk  of  wood  or  bit  of  bark,  chew  it 
with  relish  and  say  grace  for  it. 

A  sheep  never  dies  in  debt  to  its  owner — says  the  wise  old  proverb! 
Go  to  it,  sheepless  farmers! 


CARE   OF   SHEEP 


175 


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176 CONKEY'S  STOCK  BOOK 

Common  Diseases  of  Sheep 

ABORTION  Next  to  the  cow,  the  ewe  is  most  liable  to  this  trouble,  al- 
though with  proper  care  from  the  flockmaster  most  cases 
can  be  prevented.  Abortion  in  ewes  is  commonly  caused  by  some  one  of 
the  following:  Pasturing  on  frosty  herbage  in  wet,  cold  weather;  overload- 
ing the  stomach  with  coarse,  innutritious  fodder;  eating  such  food  as  rag- 
weed, frozen  turnip  leaves,  beet  leaves;  ergoted  grain  or  hay,  smutty  corn 
or  oats,  etc.;  jostling  or  hustling  by  the  flock;  chasing  by  dogs.  The  careful 
shepherd  will  be  on  his  guard  against  all  such  dangers.  Treat  the  same 
as  with  cattle,  page  141,  using  about  one-fourth  the  amount  of  carbolic 
acid  for  the  hypodermic  injection. 

ANAEMIA —      This  disease  attacks  lambs  usually.     See  description  under 
PAPER  SKIN    Hoose,  Husk,  Paper  Skin,  etc. 

BLOAT  The  symptoms  are  swelling  of  the  abdomen,  with  skin  tense  like 
a  drum.  The  left  side,  over  the  paunch  or  rumen,  is  most  affected. 
The  animal  stops  eating  and  shows  dulness,  pain  and  suffocation.  The 
trouble  is  due  to  gas  distending  the  paunch,  which  is  full  of  fermenting 
food.  The  attack  may  follow  drinking  a  great  quantity  of  water  immediately 
after  eating,  or  feeding  on  frozen  forage,  wet  pasture,  such  as  corn,  clover, 
rape,  etc.,  with  the  dew  on  it.  It  may  come  from  overeating  any  succulent 
feed,  to  which  they  have  not  been  accustomed.  •  Usually  the  whole  flock  is 
affected  at  the  same  time.  Relief  must  be  prompt  or  they  will  suffocate. 

Treatment  Same  as  for  Cattle,  page  143,  but  first  clip  away  the  wool,  then 
plunge  the  trocar  into  the  paunch  of  each  animal,  midway 
between  hip  and  last  rib,  about  three  inches  from  the  backbone.  When  the 
trocar  is  pulled  out,  the  canula,  being  a  hollow  tube,  will  let  the  gas  out 
immediately.  When  the  gas  has  escaped  take  out  the  canula  and  the  wound 
will  close  together.  Of  course  the  instrument  should  be  clean  ready  for 
emergency;  and  it  is  better  to  oil  it  before  plunging  into  the  animal.  If  the 
trocar  and  canula  are  not  handy  use  a  clean  knife,  dipping  it  in  Conkey's 
Nox-i-cide  Dip  and  Disinfectant  solution  (l/2  tablespoonful  to  1  pint  of 
water),  and  insert  a  large  quill  to  keep  the  passage  open  after  the  knife 
is  pulled  out  After  this  give  each  animal  a  tablespoonful  of  baking  soda  in 
l/2  pint  of  warm  water,  which  will  stop  further  fermentation.  Then  treat 
the  animal  to  bring  back  to  condition,  with  a  drench  as  follows: 

3  oz.  sodium  sulphate. 

1   teaspconful  of  Conkey's  Stock  Tonic. 

1  pint  warm  water. 

Sometimes  bloat  can  be  relieved  by  driving  the  whole  flock  into  a 
stream,  or  by  dashing  cold  water  over  the  side,  thus  starting  contraction 
so  that  the  gas  will  be  expelled  naturally.  In  any  treatment,  give  the  doses 
indicated  above,  to  step  further  fermentation  and  to  bring  the  flock  back 
to  condition. 

CATARRH — COLD     This  is  a  common  trouble  in  spring  or  fall,  but  may 
IN  THE  HEAD  occur  any  time  on  exposure  to  cold  winds  or  rains. 

Usually    it    occurs    after   washing    or    shearing.      The 
symptoms  are  snuffing',  sneezing,  coughing. 

Treatment       Put  the  s^eep  in  dry,  v  arm,  clean  quarters  and  mix  with  the 

feed    Conkey's    Stock    TOVM'C    according    to    directions.      If   the 

discharge  from  the  nose  interferes  with  breathing,  wash  the  noses  with  a 


DISEASES  OF  SHEEP 


177 


warm  solution  of  Conkey's  Nox-i-cide  Dip  and  Disinfectant,  using  1  part 
to  50  parts  warm  water. 

FLUKE  DISEASE —      This  is  a  disease  of  the  liver,  but  is  not  so  common 

LIVER  ROT  in    this    country    as    in    England;    but    may    occur 

wherever  sheep  are  on  damp,  swampy  pasture.     At 

first  there  is  bloating,  which  may  be  mistaken  for  fat  condition.  But  if  you 
rub  the  small  of  the  back  or  press  against  the  ribs  you  will  hear  a  crackling 
sound  as  the  flabby  tissue  slips  beneath  the  hand.  Flukes  do  not  attack 
sheep  on  high,  dry  land;  for  the  reason  that  the  fluke  embryo  passes  its  first 
stage  in  a  certain  species  of  snail  found  only  in  wet  places.  Should  these 
snails  be  destroyed  by  frogs,  carp,  etc.,  this  cuts  down  the  danger  from 
fluke  disease.  It  is  not  known  just  how  the  fluke  makes  its  way  into  the 
liver  of  the  sheep,  but  it  lodges  there  and  in  time  destroys  the  substance 
of  the  organ.  WHEN  THE  SYMPTOMS  OF  FLUKE  DISEASE  AP- 
PEAR IT  IS  ALREADY  TOO  LATE  TO  GIVE  ANY  TREATMENT. 
In  fact,  at  first  the  flukes  seem  to  stimulate  the  action  of  the  liver  and  the 
sheep  shows  extra  good  condition.  In  the  course  of  a  month  or  two  it 
loses  rapidly,  however,  and  the  wool  becomes  harsh  and  dry  and  finally 
drops  out.  The  animal  loses  appetite  or  shows  depraved  appetite.  The  bowels 
may  show  diarrhea  or  constipation  symptoms. 

Prevention  is  the  only  treatment,  namely,  keep  the  flock  on  high  dry  land, 
or  if  this  is  not  possible,  kill  the  flukes  before  they  get  past 
the  stomach.  The  very  best  prevention  treatment  is  with  the  following 
anti-parasite  mixture,  which  is  the  same  as  the  Conkey  formula  for  a  medi- 
cated stock  salt,  namely: 

9  pounds  common  barrel  salt, 

1  pound  Conkey's  Stock  Tonic, 

mixed  thoroughly  and  kept  in  a  dry  place,  where  the  sheep  can  help  them- 
selves as  wanted.  Keep  all  other  salt  away  from  the  stock;  as  this  medicated 
salt  will  be  all  they  need  for  any  purpose.  The  cheapest  way  to  prepare 
the  above  is  to  use  2  five  pound  packages  of  Conkey's  Stock  Tonic  to  90  Ibs. 
common  barrel  salt.  This  will  give  100  Ibs.  of  veterinary  salt  at  a  total  cost 
of  less  than  2l/2o.  a  pound.  A  pound  of  this  mixture  will  be  sufficient  for  four 
or  five  sheep  for  one  fortnight.  There  is  no  danger  of  the  animals  over- 
dosing, so  long  as  this  Stock  Tonic  salt  is  before  them  all  the  time,  and 
they  can  help  themselves  just  when  they  want  it. 

FOOT-ROT  The  first  symptom  is 
a  lameness  in  one 
foot,  and  if  neglected  this  spreads  to 
the  others.  Trouble  starts  as  a  red, 
moist  spot  in  the  cleft  above  the 
hoofs,  but  quickly  works  in  the  hern 
and  soon  there  is  a  thin,  foul  dis- 
charge. The  foot  spreads  above  the 
hoofs  and  feels  hot  and  tender  to  the 
touch.  If  neglected  the  hoof  be- 
comes wholly  diseased  and  falls  away. 
The  discharge  from  the  foot  will 
carry  the  disease  to  other  animals 
running  on  the  same  ground.  Foot-rot  at  different  stages 

Treatment      Wet  marshy  ground  us- 
ually starts   the  trouble;  and    the  first    thing    is  to    drain    wet 
pastures.     Don't  feed  on  wet,  muddy  lands.     Pare  down  the  hoof,  taking  off 


178 __. CONKEY'S  STOCK  BOOK 

all  overgrowth,  then  stand  the  sheep  in  a  four  inch  deep  solution  of  Nox-i- 
cide  Dip  and  Disinfectant,  1  quart  to  12  of  water.  Fill  all  cracks  with  a 
paste  dressing — flour  and  Nox-i-cide  Dip  and  Disinfectant,  using  1  table- 
spoonful  of  Nox-i-cide  Dip  and  Disinfectant  to  five  of  water.  If  cutting  has 
been  very  deep,  it  is  well  to  bandage.  Dressing  the  hoof  with  Conkey's 
Hoof  Remedy  will  hasten  development  of  healthy  new  horn. 

GARGET —  There  are  two  forms  of  this  disorder,  known  as 

INFLAMED  UDDER      simple  and  malignant.     In  simple  garget  the  udder 

is   swollen  tense,   and  feels   hot   and   hard   to   the 

touch.  Pus  or  blood  appears  in  the  milk.  The  cause  may  be  (1)  too  much 
grain  in  the  feed  of  the  ewe  immediately  after  lambing;  (2)  banking  up  of 
the  milk  from  slack  nursing  or  loss  of  the  lamb;  (3)  catching  cold,  usually 
from  lying  on  chilled  ground;  (4)  irritation  and  soreness  from  the  lamb's 
constant  bunting  of  the  ewe. 

Treatment  for  Simple  Garget — Give  Epsom  salts  to  relieve  the  feverish 
symptoms,  using  5  oz.  to  1  pint  of  water.  Bathe  the  bag  with  warm  water, 
dry  gently,  then  rub  well  with  Conkey's  Bag  Relief,  to  soften  it  and  reduce 
the  inflammation.  Then  keep  the  udder  milked  clean. 

In  malignant  garget  the  udder  is  swollen,  but  instead  of  being  hard 
and  tense  feels  soft.  It  is  red  or  purplish  from  congestion.  The  ewe  shows 
general  symptoms  of  fever,  dulness,  no  appetite,  and  loss  of  flesh.  In  time 
the  gland  tissue  of  the  udder  dies  and  sloughs  off. 

Treatment  for  Malignant  Garget — There  is  no  cure  for  a  true  case  of 
malignant  garget.  Separate  the  ewe  from  the  rest  of  the  flock  and  disinfect 
thoroughly  with  Conkey's  Nox-i-cide  Dip  and  Disinfectant,  2  teaspoonfuls 
in  a  pint  of  warm  water.  This  will  keep  the  disease  from  spreading.  As 
soon  as  the  part  is  dead  it  should  be  cut  away  without  waiting  for  natural 
sloughing.  To  heal  dress  with  the  Dip  or  Disinfectant  or  sprinkle  Conkey's 
Healing  Powder  over  the  cut  surface.  The  Healing  Powder  has  astringent 
properties,  and  hence  is  valuable  for  all  surgery  cases. 

GID — STURDY —  The  symptoms  are  swaying,  reeling,  moving  around  in 
STAGGERS —  a  circle  or  running  straight  forward  with  head  up,  or 

TURN  SICK  other    peculiar,    unconscious    and    irresponsible    move- 

ments several  times  a  day.     At  first  the  symptom  may 

be  only  dulness  and  clumsy  moving  around.  These  symptoms  usually  dis- 
appear and  return  again  in  four  to 
six  months,  although  death  may 
come  in  a  few  days  or  a  week.  The 
cause  of  the  various  symptoms  is 
disturbance  of  the  brain  due  to  the 
presence  of  Gid  bladder  worms. 
These  worms  are  developed  from 
the  eggs  of  the  dog  tape-worm, 
and  get  into  the  pasture  or  water 
from  the  droppings  of  the  sheep  Gid  worm  (tenia  coenurus) 

dog  affected  with  tape-worm.    From 

the  stomach  these  embryos  make  their  way  to  the  brain  or  spinal  cord. 
The  first  symptoms  seem  to  disappear  soon  as  the  embryos  find  a  permanent 
resting  place  in  the  brain.  But  in  the  course  of  four  to  six  months  they 
encyst  themselves  (that  is,  form  bladder-like  sacks)  and  it  is  the  pressure 
from  these  cysts  that  affects  the  brain  and  causes  the  peculiar  unbalanced 
actions. 

Treatment      for  Gid  is  preventive:     The  chief   thing  is   to  prevent   infec- 
tion of  the  pasture,  etc.,  by  tape-worms.     At  regular  intervals, 
all  sheep  dogs  should  be  tied  up  away  from  the  flock  and  purged  for  tape 


DISEASES  OF  SHEEP 179 

worms,  using  Conkey's  Special  Dog  Worm  Remedy.  A  practical  plan  is  to 
butcher  the  sheep  for  market  before  they  lose  condition,  since  the  mere 
presence  of  the  gid-worms  at  that  stage  does  not  affect  the  marketableness 
of  the  flesh.  In  this  case,  however,  take  special  care  to  destroy  the  brain 
and  spinal  cord  of  the  butchered  animals;  for  if  the  dogs  eat  these  infected 
parts  the  tape-worms  will  develop  again  and  the  whole  trouble  will  go  on 
in  an  endless  chain. 

GRASS  This  disease  should  be  carefully  distinguished  from  Gid,  just 

STAGGERS  described.  In  grass  staggers  the  animal  has  a  staggering  gait, 
and  the  actions  are  restless  and  delirious.  Sometimes  there  is 
drowsiness.  The  disease  develops  slowly,  the  first  symptom  being  loss  of 
condition,  no  appetite,  fever  and  constipation;  the  eyes  staring,  the  nose  dry 
and  hot.  The  cause  is  wrong  feeding,  due  to  one  of  the  following:  (1) 
innutritious  feed,  mostly  roughage;  (2)  sudden  change  in  feeding;  (3)  food 
too  rich,  especially  too  much  concentrate  or  grain;  for  instance,  feeding 
millet  hay  when  heavily  seeded  may  cause  this  sickness. 

Treatment      Purge    the    animal,   then   mix   with   the    feed    Conkey's    Stock 
Tonic  as  directed.     This  will  bring  back  the  appetite,  act  as  a 
tonic,  and  also  correct  the  trouble  with  digestion.     A  little  oil  meal  added 
to  the  feed  will  greatly  benefit  the  sheep. 

The  following  is  a  good  formula  for  treating  Grass  Staggers,  but  is  more 
trouble  to  give,  and  also  more  expensive: 

One-half  pint  linseed  tea  to  each  animal  with  2  teaspoon- 
fuls  of  this  mixture:  \l/2  oz.  aromatic  spirits  of  ammonia,  l/2 
dram  fluid  extract  of  nux  vomica,  2l/2  oz.  alcohol. 

This   should  be  given  twice  a  day  until  appetite  returns.     Then   feed 
carefully,  giving  a  little  oil  meal. 

GRUB  IN         During  July  and  August  the  gad- 
THE  HEAD     fly  is  abroad  in  the  land,  seeking 
its  chance  to  deposit  its  egg  in  the 
nostril  of  the  sheep.    The  sheep  fear  this  pest,  and 
during    the    egg    laying    season    will    huddle    to- 
gether, their  noses  pressed  into  each  other's  fleece 
or  buried   in  the   ground  or  between  their  fore- 
legs.    When  a  sheep  is  "struck"  or   stung  by  a 
gad-fly   it   leaps   frantically,   shakes   its   head   and 
seems  to  be  trying  to  rub  the  egg  from  the  nos-      Diagram  showing  location  of 
tril.     The  sting  subsides  and  the  sheep  shows  no       grub  in  the  head  and  where  to 
further  symptoms  until  the  following  spring,  by      Jhemine  the  SkuU  t£>  remove 
which  time  the  larvae  are  developed  and  begin  to 
burrow,    working    their    way    up    into    the    nose 

cavities,  and  hollow  folds  and  sometimes  reaching  even  the  brain.  The 
symptom  at  this  stage  is  a  bloody  discharge  from  the  nose  and  sneezing. 
Often  sneezing  will  dislodge  the  grub  and  there  will  be  no  further  trouble, 
unless  the  sheep  has  been  "struck"  several  times  in  one  fly  season.  If  the 
grub  succeeds  in  making  its  way  to  the  brain  instant  death  results. 

Treatment  If  the  animal  is  valuable  the  grub  can  be  removed  by  the 
operation  of  trepanning  the  skull,  and  the  larvae  cleaned  out. 
See  diagram  cut.  But  the  only  cheap  and  practical  treatment  is  preventive 
as  follows:  During  fly  season  smear  the  nose  of  each  sheep  every  few 
days  with  a  mixture  of  tar  and  Conkey's  Fly  Knocker.  The  Fly  Knocker 


ISO CONKEY'S  STOCK  BOOK 

can  be  used  alone,  but  the  tar  daubed  on  the  nose  will  remain  longer,  thus 
be  more  convenient. 

The  flies  will  not  strike  the  sheep  so  treated.  Other  suggestions  for  pre- 
vention are  to  plow  up  the  pasture  so  as  to  give  the  sheep  soft  ground 
which  to  burrow  their  noses.  Or,  provide  a  dark  shed  for  the  sheep  to  run 
under  during  the  fly  season.  Conkey's  Stock  Tonic  mixed  with  the  feed,  or 
added  to  the  salt  for  the  flock,  1  part  to  9  parts  salt,  will  help  the  sheep  over 
this  trying  season  when  they  are  apt  to  lose  condition.  Put  this  salt 
mixture  in  a  trough  covered  with  a  board  in  which  you  have  made  holes  just 
large  enough  for  the  sheep  to  get  the  salt;%nd  keep  the  holes  smeared  with 
pine  tar  and  Conkey's  Fly  Knocker.  Wlreflrthe  sheep  go  to  the  salt  trough 
they  will  daub  their  own  noses  and  save  you  the  trouble  of  applying. 

HOOSE— HUSK—  This  common  dis- 

PAPERSKIN—         ease  affects  lambs 

LUNGWORM  mostly  under  one 

year     old.        The 

symptoms  are  spasmodic,  suffocating 
cough,  with  a  running  discharge  from 
the  nose.  Breathing  is  very  difficult, 
so  that  the  blood  loses  vitality.  The 
lamb  becomes  dull,  loses  flesh,  and  the 
eyes  and  lips  appear  bloodless.  The 
skin  becomes  harsh,  dry  and  paperlike, 
hence  the  name  "paperskin".  The 
wool  is  dry  and  easily  pulled  out.  The  Lung  worm  (strongylus  filaria) 

trr>nK1^  ic  rln^  tr>  th^  Inner  ixrnrrn    o  r>ar         These  small  white  worms  gather  in  clusters 
trou ble  is  clue  to  the  lung-worm,  a  par-      and  are  almost  invisible  in  t£e  frothy  mucous 

asite  which  finds  its  way  into  the  bron-      of  the  throat  and  lungs. 

chial  tubes  and  lungs,  where  it  is  found 

in  clusters  of  small,  threadlike  worms,  almost  indistinguishable  in  the  frothy 

mucous. 

Treatment  Medical  treatment  is  difficult,  because  of  the  location  of  these 
worms;  as  it  is  hard  for  a  medicine  taken  into  the  stomach  to 
act  directly  on  the  air  passages.  Sometimes  the  worm  can  be  dislodged  by 
giving  each  lamb  1  teaspoonful  of  turpentine  in  milk  before  the  regular  morn- 
ing feed,  keeping  up  this  treatment  for  one  week.  This  saturates  the  system, 
and  the  fumes  are  given  off  in  the  lungs.  Another  good  treatment  is  to  put 
the  lambs  in  a  closed  room  and  fumigate  them  with  sulphur  and  alcohol  in  a 
deep  pan,  set  in  a  tub  of  water.  Give  the  lambs  nutritious,  easily  digested 
food,  such  as  linseed  meal,  oatmeal  and  bran,  with  Conkey's  Stock  Tonic 
mixed  in  the  feed  according  to  directions.  This  will  insure  full  digestion  of 
the  feed,  and  also  act  as  a  tonic  and  alterative  for  the  system.  This  treat- 
ment will  be  found  very  successful. 

Prevention  Feed  the  lambs  on  bare  lots,  and  away  from  the  old  sheep. 
When  lambs  are  fed  on  lots  where  old  sheep  have  been  grazing 
and  coughing  up  the  worms,  the  lambs  are  pretty  sure  to  become  infested. 
Also  take  care  that  the  water  is  not  infected.  During  the  coughing  spasm 
many  of  the  worms  are  dislodged,  and  if  these  fall  into  the  drinking  water 
the  lambs  are  easily  infected.  Also,  for  the  whole  flock,  use  the  anti-parasite 
mixture  as  follows,  putting  it  where  the  animals  can  help  themselves.  This 
anti-parasite  mixture  is  the  same  as  our  general  formula  for  veterinary  salt, 
as  follows: 

90  Ibs.  common  barrel  salt, 

10  Ibs.  Conkey's  Stock  Tonic  (2  packages,  $1.00  size), 


DISEASES   OF   SHEEP          181 

Mix  thoroughly  and  keep  in  a  dry  place,  where  the  sheep  can  help 
themselves.  The  cost  is  less  than  2l/2c  a  pound;  so  that  this  stock  salt  is 
cheap  as  well  as  effective.  Estimate  one  pound  of  the  mixture  a  week  for 
every  eight  or  ten  sheep  or  lambs.  Lambs  that  have  lost  condition,  should 
be  built  up  by  good  feed,  and  the  full  strength  Stock  Tonic,  according  to 
directions  on  packages. 

MAGGOTS  Any  open  wounds  or  sores  on  sheep  are  liable  to  become  in- 
fested with  maggots.  Treat  all  such  places  with  Conkey's 
Healing  Powder,  and  get  them  quickly  cured  as  a  preventive.  When  maggots 
are  already  found  in  a  sore,  paint  the  part  with  sulphur  and  benzoated  lard, 
half  and  half,  or  oil  of  tar,  or  use  simply  a  solution  of  Conkey's  Nox-i-cide 
Dip  and  Disinfectant,  2  tablespoonfuls  of  the  Nox-i-cide  Dip  and  Disin- 
fectant to  a  pint  of  water. 

MALIGNANT  In  this  disease  the  symptoms  are  running  at  the  nose, 
CATARRHAL  swollen  eyelids,  sometimes  matter  gluing  the  eyelids.  The 
FEVER  sheep  breathes  rapidly,  coughs,  loses  appetite,  and  the 

digestion  is  all  out  of  order.     The  symptom  may  be  loose- 
ness or  constipation  of  the  bowels. 

Treatment  Separate  the  sick  animals  at  once,  and  disinfect  the  quarters 
thoroughly  with  Conkey's  Dip  and  Disinfectant  according  to 
directions  for  mixing  with  water.  For  individual  treatment,  swab  or  spray 
the  nose  and  mouth  with  Conkey's  Pain  Lotion.  Put  the  sheep  in  a  dry, 
clean,  airy  shed,  and  mellow  them  up  with  a  few  meals  of  warm  bran  and 
linseed  mash.  Keep  the  whole  flock  on  nourishing  feed.  Twice  a  day  mix 
with  the  feed  Conkey's  Stock  Tonic,  1  tablespoonful  to  every  five  sheep,  as 
directed.  This  treatment  will  very  quickly  correct  the  digestive  disturb- 
ance and  tone  the  whole  system  to  fine,  healthful  condition. 

NODULAR  This  disease  is  named  from  the  tumors  or  nodules  found  in  the 
DISEASE  walls  of  the  intestines.  It  is  what  sheepmen  know  as  "knotty 
guts."  In  each  of  these  tumors  or  nodules  is  found  a  larval 
worm.  The  symptoms  of  nodular  disease  are  poor  condition,  dulness,  weak- 
ness, paleness  of  eyes  and  lips,  and  dried-up  wool.  Nodular  disease  is 
sometimes  hard  to  distinguish  from  stomach  worms. 

Treatment  Remove  the  flock  from  the  infested  pasture  to  high  dry  land, 
where  no  sheep  have  been  for  at  least  eight  months  previous. 
See  that  there  is  plenty  of  water,  and  that  it  is  pure.  Keep  before  the  flock 
all  the  time  the  anti-parasite  mixture  described  above,  namely,  the  veter- 
inary salt  made  up  as  follows:  9  parts  common  barrel  salt,  1  part  Conkey's 
Stock  Tonic,  mixed  thoroughly  and  kept  in  a  dry  place.  Feed  the  flock 
liberally  to  build  up  good  condition.  The  medicated  salt  will  usually  be  all 
that  is  necessary,  but  for  the  first  week  or  ten  days  we  advise  using  the  full- 
strength  Stock  Vigor  mixed  with  the  feed  according  to  directions  on  pack- 
ages. This  will  act  as  tonic  treatment,  and  quickly  bring  the  sheep  around 
to  good  condition.  A  small  quantity  of  Conkey's  Nox-i-cide  Dip  and  Dis- 
infectant in  the  drinking  water,  say  a  good  half-cupful  to  1  pail  of  water,  will 
be  very  beneficial  for  internal  treatment,  and  should  be  given  first  before 
moving  the  flock  to  new  pasture,  and  repeated  every  few  days  after  the 
flock  has  been  moved. 


182 


CONKEY'S  STOCK  BOOK 


Prevention  This  is  another  case  where  the  easiest  and  safest  way  is  to 
prevent  infection.  The  anti-parasite  mixture  described  above, 
which  can  be  mixed  up  at  home  cheaply,  using  common  barrel  salt,  will 
act  as  a  preventive,  if  kept  before  the  sheep  all  the  time,  so  that  they  can 
help  themselves.  This  mixture  is  very  cheap,  costing  only  2l/2c.  a  pound. 
Ninety  pounds  of  salt  and  ten  pounds  of  Conkey's  Stock  Tonic,  costing  less 
than  $2.50  for  the  hundred  pounds,  will  be  enough  to  last  a  flock  of  50  sheep 
for  fully  four  months. 

SCAB  This  is  the 
scourge  of  the 
sheep  industry,  which 
annually  costs  sheep 
owners  thousands  and 
thousands  of  dollars. 
Scab  is  very  conta- 
gious. It  is  caused  by 
an  itching,  mangy,  skin 
parasite,  a  kind  of  mite, 
just  big  enough  to  be 
seen  by  the  naked  eye. 
The  bite  of  this  mange 
mite  or  scab  mite 
raises  itching  blisters 
on  the  skin  and  with 
constant  irritation  and 
scratching  of  the  sheep 
the  skin  becomes  much 
inflamed,  the  blisters 
break  and  form  yellow- 
brown  scabs  which 
give  the  name  to  the 
disease.  The  scabby 

skin  cracks  and  ulcerates  and  the  wool  falls  out  in  bunches.  Usually  the 
back  and  sides,  rump  and  shoulders  are  the  worst  affected  parts.  The 
picture,  copied  from  a  photograph,  shows  the  actual  work  of  scab  mites.  In 
most  sheep  states  the  laws  are  very  strict  for  treating  scab  in  sheep,  on 
account  of  the  contagion.  It  is  known  that  old  buildings,  posts,  or  even 
tufts  of  wool  on  bushes  or  range,  will  harbor  these  mites  and  start  the 
infection  in  a  healthy  flock. 

Treatment  Dipping  is  the  only  remedy.  There  are  various  kinds  of 
dips;  and  while  all  of  them  kill  the  scab  mite,  many  are  ex- 
tremely dangerous,  if  allowed  to  get  into  the  mouth,  eyes  or  nose.  Such 
poisonous  dips  not  only  endanger  the  sheep,  but  since  they  burn,  curl  and 
stain  the  wool,  they  are  absolutely  unfit  to  use  for  dipping  purposes.  It 
has  long  been  a  scientific  problem  to  find  a  dip  solution  that  would  actually 
kill  the  scab  mite,  and  at  the  same  time  be  safe  for  the  sheep.  Where  the 
fleece  has  already  been  destroyed  by  the  disease,  the  poisonous  dips  (such  as 
arsenic,  lime  and  sulphur,  tobacco,  etc.),  are  still  unsafe  to  use  on  account 
of  the  chance  of  the  sheep's  getting  the  dip  in  the  mouth,  nose  or  eyes,  or 
the  danger  of  lambs  nursing.  We  positively  guarantee  Conkey's  Nox-i-cide 
Dip  and  Disinfectant  to  be  safe,  non-poisonous,  non-corrosive,  and  that  it 
does  not  even  stain  the  wool.  It  does  kill  the  scab  mites.  But  as  with  e-very 
dip,  a  second  treatment  10  days  later  is  necessary  to  kill  the  nits  which  Ijatch 
out.  The  female  scab  mite  lays  its  eggs  (usually  ten  eggs)  under  the-.scab 
and  these  hatch  out  and  mature  in  about  15  days.  Thus  it  is  easy  to  see 


Drawing  from  actual  photograph  of  scabby  sheep.    2.  Common 
scab  mites  (psoroptes  communis).    These  insects  are  larger 
than  the  head  mite  and  are  easily  seen  by  the  naked  eye. 


DISEASES   OF   SHEEP 183 

how  quickly  even  one  mite  could  start  the  infection;  as  in  three  months' 
time  a  single  mite  can  produce  almost  one  million.  Scab  is  easily  cured  by 
the  use  of  Conkey's  Nox-i-cide  Dip  and  Disinfectant.  If  possible  dip  twice 
a  year,  as  the  dip  is  a  general  benefit  to  the  health  and  condition,  cleaning 
the  skin,  healing  any  sore  as  well  as  killing  the  scab  mites,  and  also  ridding 
the  sheep  of  ticks.  Conkey's  Nox-i-cide  Dip  and  Disinfectant  actually 
improves  the  wool.  Lambs  can  nurse  the  ewes  immediately  after  dipping. 
If  any  of  the  Dip  liquid  gets  into  the  mouth  it  is  beneficial  rather  than 
harmful;  as  it  will  help  to  rid  the  stomach  and  intestines  of  worms.  If  a 
little  gets  up  the  nostril  it  will  cause  sneezing,  and  so  help  to  dislodge  grub 
in  the  head.  In  dipping,  use  a  trough  and  let  each  animal  be  held  in  the 
solution  for  two  minutes,  and  let  the  head  be  ducked  under  at  least  once. 
When  the  sheep  is  taken  out  of  the  dip  stand  it  on  a  board  platform 
sloping  back  into  the  dip  trough,  so  that  the  liquid  can  be  squeezed  out,  and 
will  not  be  wasted.  The  temperature  of  the  dip  liquid  should  be  100  to  110 
degrees.  Conkey's  Nox-i-cide  Dip  and  Disinfectant  mixes  with  warm  water 
in  the  proportion  of  1  part  to  about  67  of  water.  This  makes  it  cheap,  which 
is  another  important  essential  for  practical  treatment.  Where  sheep  are 
affected  with  Foot-rot,  they  can  be  prepared  for  special  treatment,  see 
paragraph  before,  and  the  dipping  for  scab  and  treatment  for  foot-rot  can 
be  performed  at  one  operation  and  handling  of  the  flock. 

SCOURS      A  foul  smelling  loose  discharge,  with  much  soiling  of  the  tail, 
*    hips  and  legs,  characterizes  this  disease.    The  animal  loses  appe- 
tite; but  shows  a  pot  belly,  with  evident  pain  in  the  abdomen,  as  it  is  rest- 
less and  switches  the  tail  constantly.     Weakness  and  lean  condition  follow. 

Treatment  The  treatment  is  according  to  the  age  of  the  animal.  If  a  suckling 
then  the  trouble  is  (1)  from  wrong  feed  or  care  of  the  ewe  or 
(2)  from  navel  infection.  Of  course,  if  this  latter  trouble,  the  only  treatment 
is  prevention — careful  disinfection  of  the  lambing  quarters  before  lambing, 
and  immediate  washing  of  the  stump  of  the  cord  of  the  newborn  lamb  with 
Nox-i-cide  Dip  and  Disinfectant  solution;  or  in  absence  of  this  a  5%  solution 
of  carbolic  acid.  Then  paint  with  iodine.  If  the  trouble  is  with  the  ewe, 
give  first  a  mild  laxative,  and  then  mix  Conkey's  Stock  Tonic  with  the  feed 
according  to  directions.  This  will  act  as  the  necessary  alterant.  It  will  also 
tone  up  the  general  system.  If  the  scouring  lamb  is  already  weaned,  the 
cause  must  be  overfeeding,  or  too  sudden  changes  in  the  way  of  feeding, 
or  a  feed  ration  out  of  proper  balance.  (See  page  50.)  Again,  the  trouble 
may  come  from  cold,  damp  quarters.  First,  give  2  teaspoonfuls  of  castor  oil 
with  two  to  three  drops  of  Nox-i-cide  Dip  and  Disinfectant.  Keep  the  sick 
animals  on  gruels  instead  of  whole  grain  and  dry  fodder  for  a  few  days  and 
give  1  teaspoonful  of  Conkey's  Stock  Tonic  at  each  feeding.  After  the 
animal  is  on  regular  feed,  use  Conkey's  Stock  Tonic  with  the  feed  accord- 
ing to  directions. 

SHEEP  Intense  itching,  followed  by  rough  thickened  skin,  black  and 
LICE  scabby,  with  short  dry  twisted  wool,  indicates  lice.  The  cure  is 
dipping,  using  a  solution  of  Conkey's  Nox-i-cide  Dip  and  Disin- 
fectant (1  gallon  to  67  gallons  of  water).  Give  special  attention  to  the  head, 
and  keep  the  sheep  immersed  a  full  minute.  If  the  dip  liquid  is  squeezed  out 
of  the  fleece  and  allowed  to  drain  back  into  the  dip  tank,  68  gallons  will  be 
enough  for  70  head. 


184 CQNKEY'S  STOCK  BOOK 

SHEEP  These  ticks  stay  in  the  wool,  only  getting  down  to  the  skin  occa- 
TICKS  sionally  to  suck  blood.  So  long  as  they  cling  to  the  wool  they 
do  not  bother  the  animal;  but  if  neglected  they  multiply  until 
there  is  a  continual  itching  and  biting,  keeping  the  sheep  in  torment.  Lambs 
are  the  worst  sufferers.  The  only  treatment  is  dipping,  using  Conkey's 
Nox-i-cide  Dip  and  Disinfectant  in  a  solution  (1  gallon  to  67  gallons  of 
water);  hold  in  this  dip  a  little  over  two  minutes,  then  stand  the  animal 
on  dripping  board  while  you  squeeze  the  dip  from  the  wool.  In  this  way 
each  sheep  will  use  up  l/2  gallon  of  the  mixture.  Usually  it  is  necessary  to 
dip  a  second  time,  two  or  three  weeks  from  the  first,  to  destroy  nits.  Give 
the  sheds  or  pastures  rest  for  a  week  or  so.  Clean  up  the  old  quarters  and 
disinfect  with  Nox-i-cide  Dip  and  Disinfectant  thoroughly. 

SORE  This  condition  is  distinct  from  the  true  foot  and  mouth  disease, 
MOUTH  being  simply  ulceration.  It  is  not  contagious;  but  the  germs 
remain  in  pastures  or  sheds,  and  wherever  the  mouth  is  torn  or 
scratched  by  the  forage,  these  germs  enter  and  inflammation  sets  in.  In 
the  same  way,  if  the  feet  are  cut  by  brambles,  the  germs  enter  and  the 
animal  goes  lame. 

Treatment      Remove  the  scabs  and  wash  the  sores  twice  daily  with  Nox-i- 
cide     Dip     and     Disinfectant     solution,     1     teaspoonful     to     a 
pint  of  warm  water,  1  part  to  100  parts  water.     Clean  up  all  lots  and  sheds, 
and  disinfect.    This  will  prevent  further  infection. 

STOMACH  These  worms  cause  a  great  deal  of  trouble  to  sheep,  and  loss 
WORMS  of  profit  to  owners.  They  are  usually  found  in  the  fourth 
stomach  where  they  gorge  themselves  with  the  blood  of  the 
sheep,  and  cause  an  unthrifty,  dull,  lean  and  weak  condition.  The  skin  is 
pale.  Sometimes  a  loose,  painless  puffing  or  swelling  shows  under  the 
jaws.  The  animal  has  diarrhea  and  great  thirst,  but  may  or  may  not  relish 
food. 

Treatment  is  difficult  with  any  medicine;  but  the  following  has  been  suc- 
cessful: a  solution  of  Nox-i-cide  Dip  and  Disinfectant,  1  tea- 
spoonful  in  a  pint  of  water,  shaken  up  to  a  milky  fluid  or  emulsion,  given 
every  other  day  for  three  days  in  doses  as  follows:  Lambs,  four  to  six 
tablespoonfuls;  sheep,  eight  to  ten.  Dose  should  be  on  the  empty  stomach, 
and  no  feed  or  water  allowed  for  three  hours  after.  This  medicine  will 
have  to  be  given  as  a  drench  to  each  animal  separately,  or  if  this  is  imprac- 
tical, try  as  easier  method,  mixing  with  the  feed  Conkey's  Worm  Remedy  in 
its  pure  state,  allowing  1  tablespoonful  to  5  sheep.  Treat  the  infested  pasture 
by  burning  it  over  in  the  fall  or  spring.  To  be  safe,  infected  pasture  should 
not  be  used  by  cattle  or  sheep  for  a  year  unless  thus  burned  over.  Old 
sheep  can  resist  stomach  worms  much  better  than  young  lambs.  Sucking 
lambs  first  get  infected  by  sucking  at  the  foul  locks  of  the  dam.  Later 
they  pick  up  the  eggs  while  grazing  on  the  same  pasture  with  the  ewes. 
The  best  plan  is  to  treat  the  ewes  all  winter,  giving  daily  access  to  Stock 
Vigor  mixed  dry  with  barrel  salt,  1  part  to  9  parts  of  salt,  which  will  act 
as  an  anti-parasite,  and  keep  the  animals  otherwise  in  fine  condition.  At 
all  times,  whether  in  feed  lot  or  pasture,  keep  the  Stock  Tonic  Salt  where  all 
the  sheep  can  get  at  it.  When  they  can  get  it  just  as  they  want  it,  there 
will  be  no  danger  of  their  taking  too  much  any  time.  Mixed  in  this  pro- 
portion, 10  Ibs.  of  Stock  Tonic  to  90  Ibs.  of  barrel  salt,  you  have  an  effective, 
home-made,  cheap,  veterinary  salt,  costing  you  less  than  2y2  cents  a  pound. 
Estimate  1  pound  per  head  for  60  days.  The  cost  is  nothing  in  comparison 
—you  practically  insure  your  flock. 


DISEASES  OF  SHEEP 185 

TAPE  WORMS  Unthriftiness  is  the  chief  sign  of  tape  worms,  with  con- 
tinued and  increasing  loss  of  condition.  Sometimes  the 
gait  is  unsteady  from  weakness.  Sometimes  the  flanks  are  distended  with 
gas;  while  the  appetite  is  keen,  the  animal  continually  craving  for  food  and 
water.  But  the  chief  symptom  is  the  actual  finding  of  segments  or  joints 
of  the  tape  worm  in  the  droppings.  The  worms  are  of  two  kinds — the 
fringed  tape  worm  taking  up  its  place  in  the  bile-duct  and  the  broad  tape 
worm  attaching  itself  to  the  intestines. 

Treatment  There  is  no  positive  way  to  reach  the  fringed  tape  worm  in  the 
bile  duct.  The  broad  tape  worm  in  the  intestines  succumbs 
to  the  following  treatment:  Withhold  all  food  for  twenty-four  hours,  then 
give  one-half  to  one  dram  of  extract  of  male  fern  in  two  to  four  ounces  of 
castor  oil.  Do  not  use  the  infected  pasture  for  either  sheep  or  cattle.  How- 
ever, if  the  tape  worms  are  of  the  fringed  species,  the  same  pasture  will 
do  for  horses  and  cattle,  as  the  fringed  species  will  not  attack  them,  but  in 
time  die  out.  Be  sure  to  feed  the  flock  well,  give  plenty  of  drinking  water, 
have  salt  where  they  can  get  it,  and  wherever  possible  move  them  fre- 
quently from  pasture  to  pasture.  This  is  another  case  where  an  anti-parasite 
mixture,  such  as  already  described,  using  common  barrel  salt  thoroughly 
mixed  with  Conkey's  Stock  Tonic  in  proportion  of  1  part  Stock  Tonic 
to  9  parts  common  salt,  will  cost  practically  nothing — not  over  a  cent  and  a 
quarter  a  month  for  a  sheep,  but  will  practically  guarantee  you  against 
serious  losses  from  tape  worms  or  other  numerous  parasites  of  stomach 
and  intestines.  It  is  also  plain,  that  where  this  mixture  is  constantly  before 
the  animals,  so  that  they  get  it  with  regularity  (for  they  will  help  themselves 
to  a  little  each  day  if  it  is  always  where  they  can  get  it),  it  will  actually 
destroy  the  fringed  tape  worm  above  referred  to  before  it  has  a  chance  to 
get  to  the  bile  duct,  where  no  method  of  treatment  can  be  sure  of  reaching 
it.  The  common  sense  plan  is  to  treat  these  parasites  before  they  get  past 
the  stomach  or  intestines.  Then  you  have  got  them! 

% 

WOOL-EATING  Sheep  do  not  have  many  vices,  but  this  is  one  of  them. 
It  is  caused  by  some  defect  in  the  feed,  and  is  especially 
common  in  winter.  It  will  be  necessary  to  separate  the  wool  eaters  from 
the  flock,  but  the  whole  flock  should  have  change  in  feed,  giving  a  little  corn 
if  possible.  Mix  Conkey's  Stock  Tonic  with  the  ground  feed,  1  teaspoonful 
to  each  sheep.  Sometimes  in  lambs  the  habit  is  formed  from  sucking  at 
the  clotted  wool  tags  around  the  udder  of  the  dam.  It  is  plain  that 
attention  to  these,  trimming  them  away  from  the  udder,  will  prevent  the 
habit. 


186 


CONKEY'S  STOCK  BOOK 


SWINE 

WITHOUT  doubt  this  country  is  the  greatest  country  for  swine  grow- 
ing in  the  world. 
The  Mississippi  Valley  or  the  corn  belt,  where  grain  and  pastur- 
age   conditions    are    favorable,    represents    the    very    center    of    the    indus- 
try today.     The   South,  with  its  abundant  corn  and  many   suitable  forage 
crops,  could  do  much  more  than  it  is  doing,  but  at  present  the  twelve  states 
of  the  corn  belt,  with  Iowa  far  in  the  lead,  head  the  world  for  product  and 
values.      Estimating   approximately   80,000,000   swine   in    America,   90%    are 
in  the  United  States,  contributing  a  wealth  (figures  of  1908)  of  $339,030,000. 

Moreover,  the  greater  part  of  all  these  are  raised  for  home  consumption. 
Surplus  products,  such  as  bacon,  ham,  salt  pork,  live  hogs,  lard  compounds, 
fresh  pork,  canned  pork  and  lard  oil,  are  exported  annually  to  an  extent 
way  up  in  the  millions.  But  the  amount  for  home  consumption  is  fully 
four  times  as  great  as  all  this. 

One  curious  fact  is,  we  butcher  annually  10%  more  than  the  total  num- 
ber raised.  Can  you  figure  this?  It  looks  like  a  puzzle  or  some  such  fool- 
ism;  but  this  statement  simply  means  that  the  increase  in  production  is  so 
enormous  that  each  year  we  seemingly  kill  more  than  we  raise  because  the 
new  litters  so  quickly  replace  the  butchered  stock. 

IOWA  In  1908  production,  Iowa  led  with  8,413,000  swine  raised.  Illinois 
LEADS  came  next,  4,672,000;  and  Nebraska,  Missouri,  Indiana,  Texas, 
Kansas,  Ohio,  Wisconsin,  Georgia,  Tennessee  and  Michigan  fol- 
lowed in  the  order  named.  Meanwhile  the  world's  swine  markets  are 
Chicago,  Kansas  City,  St.  Joseph,  Indianapolis  and  Milwaukee,  in  the  order 
named. 

HOW   IT'S      The  history  of  this  industry  in  America  is  one  of  wonderful 
GROWN  interest.     Wonderful,  not  only  in  the  growth  of  the  industry, 

but  for  the  marvelous  improvement  of  type  by  careful  breed- 
ing.    It  is  fair  to  say  that  more  improvement  has  been  made  by  breeder? 


SWINE   RAISING 187 

with  this  animal  than  with  any  other  on  the  farm.  This  progress  dates 
from  about  1865,  and  shows  a  revolution  in  standards;  so  that  instead  of 
the  old  mammoth,  slow-maturing  swine  of  older  days  we  have  the  vigorous 
modern  animal  175  to  400  Ibs.,  and  running  to  flesh  rather  than  lard;  and 
which,  with  generous  feeding  reaches  its  maximum  weight  before  15  months; 
thus  making  a  short  and  thrifty  feeding  animal.  Moreover,  breeders  have 
carefully  developed  the  valuable  parts  of  the  animal  and  lessened  develop- 
ment of  the  parts  less  valuable  in  the  market. 

9  FT.  VS.  16  FT.       It's  a  long  and  interesting  story  of  development  from 

DIGESTIVE  the  wild  boar  to  the  improved  hog,  1911  model.     The 

MACHINERY  total  length  of  the  digestive  tract  of  the  wild  boar,  for 

instance,  is  9  ft.;  that  of  the  best  modern  domesticated 

hog,  16  ft.  The  9  ft.  were  enough  for  one  self-supporting  animal.  But  the 
16  ft.  tract  supports  not  only  the  hog,  but  helps  support  you  and  me  also. 
Automobiles  are  not  the  only  "machines"  which  have  to  be  up-to-date 
models. 

GOING  Naturally  prolific,  in  fact,  leading  all  domestic  animals  in  this 
SOME  respect,  swine  are  easily  a  profitable  investment  for  the  wide- 
awake farmer  or  stockman.  Sows  in  different  sections  have  been 
known  to  average  16  in  the  litter,  occasionally  running  even  20  or  over. 
But  more  desirable  broods  usually  result  from  litters  of  7  to  10  on  the 
average.  As  a  rule  pigs  do  well  in  big  families  rather  than  in  very  small 
litters — they  are  lusty  and  thrifty,  with  plenty  of  appetite.  On  the  very 
low  average  of  6  to  a  litter,  Coburn,*  the  great  American  authority,  points 
out  that  a  single  sow,  estimating  half  of  each  litter  as  females,  would  have 
produced  at  the  end  of  four  years,  farrowing  twice  yearly,  a  total  of  501 
females  and  501  males.  Do  hogs  pay? 

What  the  farmer  wants  is  pork  and  money.  So  he  looks  to  the  com- 
monsense  usefulness  of  the  hog.  The  animal  to  please  him  must  not  be 
too  delicate  in  body,  too  fine  in  bone,  too  short  of  carcass,  or  with  legs 
too  long.  It  must  have  constitution  first,  and  as  far  as  possible,  fair  im- 
munity from  disease.  Good  looks  count,  if  looks  are  thrown  in  for  nothing. 

Given  such  an  animal  the  farmer  will  treat  him  right — like  an  individual, 
in  a  good  friendly  manner,  and  not  like  a  mere  pork  and  lard  machine. 
Breeding  stock,  surroundings,  climate  and  feed,  each  of  these  must  be  taken 
into  account  as  factors  in  the  problem  of  success  with  swine.  Of  all  farm 
animals  the  hog  is  the  most  plastic  in  the  hands  of  the  commonsense 
breeder. 

THE  "BACON"        Now,  as  regards  market  type,  lard  hogs  still  hold  first 

CONTROVERSY     place  by  an  immense  rrtajority.     Perhaps  this  is  largely 

because  it  is   so  easy  to  make   lard  hogs  with  plenty 

of  corn.  The  bacon  hog,  with  a  requirement  of  healthy  lean  meat  with 
the  fat  firm,  cannot  come  from  a  too-large  ration  of  corn;  and  it  is  claimed 
by  some  that  the  bacon  price  does  not  make  up  the  difference  in  loss  of 
weight.  Certainly  the  lard  hog  has  no  rival  in  the  great  belt  where  corn 
is  the  easiest  and  cheapest  thing  to  feed.  The  bacon  breed  on  this  continent 
represents  a  Canadian  industry  as  a  general  thing,  but  the  bacon  hog  is 
getting  more  attention  now,  and  in  time  we  may  come  to  rival  our  neighbors 
to  the  north-. 

MARKET    Prime  heavy  hogs  350  Ibs.  to  500  Ibs. 

CLASSES    Butchers  180  Ibs.  to  350  Ibs. 

Packers  300  Ibs.  to  500  Ibs.    \    Lard. 

Light  120  Ibs.  to  220  Ibs. 

Pigs  60  Ibs.  to  125  Ibs. 

*Coburns,  "Swine  in  America." 


188 


CONKEY'S  STOCK  BOOK 


Preference  is  for  150  Ibs.  at  10  months.  Just  stop  and  think  of  this  fact: 
Your  hogs  are  ready  for  market  at  the  age  of  10  months,  or  sometimes  one 
year,  at  a  cost,  pound  for  pound,  of 
just  about  one-half  the  feed  for  beef; 
or  compared  with  sheep,  we  find  pound 
for  pound  pork  is  produced  at  about 
two-thirds  the  cost  of  best  mutton. 
The  carcasses  dress  out  at  good  per- 
cents,  75%  to  82%  being  the  usual 
average,  making  an  average  value  per 
carcass  of  $8.75.  There  is  no  waste 
product,  strictly  speaking.  The  com- 
mon expression  of  packers  that  they 
"use  all  but  the  squeal"  is  literal  truth. 

BEST  BREED     In  the  United  States,  then,  the  breeds  most  popular  are 
those  known  as  "large  hogs": 

Poland  Chinas, 
Chester  Whites, 
Duroc  Jerseys, 
Yorkshires, 
Berkshires   (Modern) 

The  small  Yorkshires  or  Suffolks  and  the  Essex  are  the  small  breeds. 
The  middle  Yorkshires,  Victorias  and  Cheshires  are  known  as  medium 
breeds.  But  it  must  be  understood  that  this  classification  is  for  tendency 
only.  Size  may  vary  according  to  the  section  where  the  breed  is  raised, 
food,  care,  etc.  For  instance,  feed  the  smaller  medium  animals  corn  and 
you  develop  to  a  weight  for  that  individual  animal  which  would  put  it  in 
the  class  with  "large  hogs."  This  then  is  simply  a  general  statement  for 
average  conditions. 

The  "Best"  breed  is  a  matter  of  individual  liking.  It  isn't  quite  true 
to  say  there  is  no  best  breed — as  Coburn  (remember,  he  is  the  American 
authority)  says  there  really  is  a  "best  breed  for  every  man."  That  is,  for 
every  man  there  is  a  breed  with  characteristics,  marketable  or  ornamental, 
making  it  best  for  his  individual  purposes.  Complete  statistics  are  not 
procurable;  but  a  comparison  of  the  various  herd-books  for  registration 
shows  the  popularity  of  breeds  to  be  about  as  indicated  in  the  order  of  the 
general  table  which  follows: 


BREED 

Size 

Color 

Kind 

Poland-China  

Large 

Black  with  dash  of  white  on  face 

Berkshires       
Chester  Whites  
Hampshi'-es  (Am.  Thin-Rine)    . 
(Large)  Yorkshires     
Tarn  worth 

Large 
Large 
Large 
Large 
Large 

of  jowl,  feet,  ankles  and  tail 
Practically  same  as  above 
White  entirely 
Black  with  white  belt 
White  entirely 
Red  Bronze  or  Sandy 

Lard 
Bacon  or  Lard 
Bacon  or  Lard 
Bacon 
Bacon 
Bacon 

Duroc-Jerseys    
Middle  Yorkshires                    .   .   . 
Victoria     
Cheshire    .... 
Small  Yorkshires  (or  Suffolks)  .   . 
Essex     

Large 
Medium 
Medium 
Medium 
Small 
Small 

Red,  Bronze  or  Sandy 
White  entirely 
White  entirely 
White  entirely 
White  entirely 
Black  entirely 

Lard 
Lard 
Lard 
Lard 
Lard 
Lard 

SWINE   RAISING 


189 


HOG  THRIFT  Compared  with  other  farm  animals,  hogs  are  an  easy 
investment.  Compared  with  other  farm  animals  their 
rate  of  increase  is  enormous.  Compared  with  other  farm  animals,  they 
make  the  most  economical  use  of  feed,  pound  for  pound  of  product.  Every 
farmer  should  have  at  least  a  sow  and  pigs.  If  he  owns  cattle  he  should 
have  a  proper  number  of  swine  to  follow  the  cattle.  Don't  waste  anything 
the  hogs  will  eat  with  profit.  The  hog  is  the  poor  man's  friend — the  rich 
man's  benefactor. 

It  seems  pretty  safe  to  say  the  hog  has  paid  off  more  mortgages  than 
any  animal  on  the  farm — man  included. 


Piling  up  Profits 

RIGHT  CARE    But  of  course  the  first  and  most  important  thing  in  rais- 
ing  hogs    successfully    is    to    have    the    right    start — good 
stock.    Then  with  right  stock,  to  give  the  right  kind  of  care. 

Hogs  should  not  be  too  closely  confined,  except  at  the  time  of  fattening. 
They  require  exercise,  as  much  as  any  animal,  to  keep  in  good  condition, 
i.  e.,  able  to  make  thrifty  gains.  One  reason  for  the  great  gains  on  pasturage 
of  swine  is  the  abundant  exercise.  Fall  pigs  are  usually  greatly  handi- 
capped in  development  by  this  lack  of  exercise.  Another  handicap  to  the 
fall  pig  is  water,  for  if  the  water  is  cold  he  will  not  use  as  much  as  is 
necessary  for  best  development.  Without  exercise  pigs  cannot  be  kept  in 
healthy  condition — respiratory  and  digestive  functions  won't  go  on  properly 
without  it.  Give  plenty  of  range. 

In  swine  the  lungs  have  practically  all  the  work  of  respiration,  the  skin 
not  having  any  share  in  that  function.  It  is  true  there  is  a  sort  of  breathing 
"tube"  which  runs  down  through  the  fore  feet,  very  much  as  the  hollow 
bone  in  the  wing  feather  of  the  fowl,  which  helps  in  breathing. 

THE   HOG   PEN     Pens   should   be  arranged   so  they  can  be  cleaned  up 
easily.      Cement   floors   are   good   for   the   outer   pens; 

but  for  sleeping  quarters  well-matched  boards  make  the  best  floor,  thickly 
covered  with  clean  straw.  Leave  the  pigs  on  a  cement  floor  and  they  soon 
become  lame  and  crippled  from  enlarged  joints. 

The  straw  must  be  changed  frequently,  as  for  other  animals.  Be  sure 
all  quarters  are  disinfected  regularly.  Whitewash  as  a  precaution.  On 


190 


CONKEY'S   STOCK  BOOK 


posts  or  any  place  where  the  animals  scratch  themselves,  fasten  old  clothes 
saturated  with  Nox-i-cide  Dip  and  Disinfectant,  as  it  will  rid  the  animals 
of  lice  and  keep  the  skins  healed  of  any  sores  or  wounds,  and  besides  less 
liable  to  mange.  Use  the  Dip  and  Disinfectant  liberally  about  all  premises. 
Better  waste  a  little  than  later  on  lose  a  lot  of  hogs  from  epidemic.  Hog 
hygiene  is  an  important  subject.  Nox-i-cide  Dip  and  Disinfectant  will  insure 
this  proper  sanitation.  See  page  207  for  completer  statement. 


Prize  winning  Yorkshire  Sow 

If  any  of  the  neighbors  think  that  just  anything  is  "good  enough  for  a 
hog,"  you  can  point  to  your  clean  and  disinfected  quarters  and  show  how 
these  "dirty"  animals  respond  to  clean  surroundings  and  good  care.  Keep 
the  hog  pen  clean,  dry,  warm  but  well  ventilated,  and  you  have  settled  a 
big  part  of  the  risk  in  hog  raising. 

THE  HOG  TROUGH     Another  thing— hogs  surely  do  relish  clean  feed. 
A  hog  is  omnivorous — eats  anything.     It's  up  to 

you  to  see  that  what  he  gets  is  good  and  clean.  And  because  he  is  omnivo- 
rous, you  must  see  that  he  gets  regular  change  of  food.  Supplement  the 
grain  ration,  if  you  want  quicker,  more  economical  gains.  Forage  crops 
are  profitable.  A  small  area  if  well  planned  for  rotation  of  crops  will  grow 
all  the  green  feed  hogs  need. 

For  instance,  corn,  grain  and  clover  in  rotation  make  profitable  hog 
pasture.  Of  course  if  you  haven't  seasonable  pasture  you  will  have  to  supply 
the  deficiency  in  the  hog  trough — at  two  to  four  times  the  pasture  cost. 
Read  every  word  on  feeds  and  feeding  of  swine,  page  52  to  55. 

The  pigs  should  be  weaned  at  about  eight  weeks.  Begin  with  the 
heavy  fat  rascals  first,  and  leave  the  less  thrifty  ones  a  while  longer  with 
the  old  sow.  This  will  give  the  smaller  pigs  a  better  start,  and  also  prevent 
the  danger  from  suddenly  drying  off  the  sow.  Slop  should  be  the  principal 
feed;  but  avoid  garbage  which  is  fermenting,  or  for  that  matter  any  decom- 


SWINE  RAISING 


191 


Hog  Trough  made  of  Boiler  Tank. 
Practically  indestructible 


A  covered  Hog  Trough  with  feed 
spout  in  center 


posing  animal  food.  Such  food  is  poisonous  to  any  living  animal.  Don't 
handicap  the  young  stock  at  the  start.  Feed  a  plenty;  not  too  much,  but 
push  the  little  fellows  along.  If  milk  is  to  be  had  cheap.ly,  put  it  in.  Skim 
milk  is  good.  If  sweet,  so  much  the  better.  A  little  bran  in  the  milk  will 
more  than  pay,  as  it  will  give  the  pigs  that  long  sappy  growth,  put  an  extra 
kink  in  the  tail,  and  a  sassy  look  in  the  eye.  In  changing  from  one  kind  of 
feed  to  another  don't  change  too  suddenly.  Especially  go  slow  on  new 
corn.  Hogs  greatly  relish  it,  and  are  pretty  sure  to  eat  more  than  is  good 
for  them  if  not  given  careful  management.  Ever  notice  how  most  hog 
epidemics  come  along  about  the  time  we  begin  feeding  new  corn? 

REGULAR  FEEDS    Be  regular.    Animals  are  creatures  of  habit;  and  good 
or  bad  decide  how  well  they  will  thrive.   Only  regular 
feeding  pays.     Read  more  about  this  in  Feeds  and  Feeding. 

GUARD  HEALTH      Guard   health   at   every   turn.     Healthy   hogs   mean 
healthy  profits.     Give  plenty  of  pure  water,  not  mere 

hog  wallow.  Pigs  need  water  in  addition  to  the  slop.  At  two  months 
estimate  12  Ibs.  of  water  to  100  Ibs.  live  weight.  They  will  require  less  as 
they  grow  older,  decreasing  to  about  4  Ibs.  per  100  Ibs.  live  weight  at,  say, 
eight  months.  It  is  hard  to  estimate  the  mineral  contents  of  water,  feeds, 
etc.,  but  these  are  of  special  importance  for  healthy  hogs.  Remember,  we 
have  bred  them  away  from  rooting  snouts,  to  modern  short  noses.  So  we 
must  supply  the  place  of  mineral  earth  by  giving  free  access  to  ash  (soft 
coal),  charcoal  (charred  corn-cob,  Umh!),  air-slaked  lime,  bone  meal,  etc. 
Give  a  little  salt,  for  they  need  it.  The  best  plan  is  to  mix  up  a  little  of 
Conkey's  veterinary  salt  according  to  the  free  formula  given  elsewhere  in 
this  book.  Keep  this  mixture  before  them  all  the  time  and  they  will  help 
themselves  just  as  they  need  it.  When  it  comes  to  salt,  let  each  hog 
measure  his  own  dose.  It  is  risky  business  putting  salt  in  with  the  slop 
or  regular  feed. 


Individual  Hog  Trough 


Hog  Trough  with  Mud  Platform.    Bar  can  be 
raised  as  Pigs  grow  larger 


192 


CONKEY'S  STOCK  BOOK 


WHOSE  HOG?  Usually  this  is  an  appropriate  question.  Few  hogs  arc 
free  from  lice — just  take  a  look  for  yourself,  back  of  the 
ears,  along  the  neck  and  under  the  breast;  they  are  there  by  right  of 
squatter  sovereignty.  You  may  think  it  is  your  hog,  but  unless  you  get 
up  and  act  for  the  protection  of  your  property,  the  lice  will  keep  on  sucking 
and  multiplying,  and  it  will  be  nobody's  hog  before  long.  A  louse  is  always 
unprofitable,  wherever  you  find  it.  The  louse  isn't  the  only  blood-sucker 
and  robber.  While  the  louse  is  working  on  the  outside,  there  are  hosts  of 
other  parasite  robbers  busily  alive  on  the  inside,  seeing  which  can  make 
most  wages  at  the  trade.  You  will  find  a  good  collection  of  pictures  of 
these  fellows  in  the  rogue's  gallery,  page  204.  You  can  judge  for  yourself 
which  is  the  handsomest — Pin  Worm,  Thread  Worm,  Round  Worm,  Kidney 
Worm,  Tape  Worm,  Trichina  Worm,  etc.,  etc.  But  here  is  one  fact  that 


Prize  winning  Duroc  Jersey  Boar 

covers  them  all,  along  with  all  external  parasites — they  cause  nine-tenths 
of  all  swine  losses,  all  unthriftiness,  all  succumbing  to  cholera,  pneumonia, 
and  such  dreaded  plagues. 


WHAT'S  TO  Fortunately,  this  is  an  easy  question  to  answer.  While 
BE  DONE?  lice  and  worms  are  responsible  for  most  of  the  losses  in 
swine  raising,  these  two  classes  of  parasites  can  be  positively  eliminated 
from  the  livestock  business  with  a  little  commonsense  attention.  But,  one 
at  a  time,  please: 

LICE  You  will  see  the  nits  in  all  stages  of  incubation  matted  on  hairs 
back  of  the  ears,  on  neck,  breast,  etc.  If  you  haven't  a  dipping  tank 
or  wallowing  vat,  go  after  the  lice  with  a  spray  pump,  or  a  sprinkling  can; 
or  even  a  scrub  broom,  dipped  in  Conkey's  Nox-i-cide  Dip  and  Disinfectant 
11  —  to  a  pail  of  water.  Go  over  every  part  of  the  body;  for  the  lice  will 
try  to  hide  away;  and  if  you  leave  any  part  untouched,  they  will  multiply 
rapidly  and  soon  be  swarming  again  over  all  the  animal's  body.  With  the 


SWINE  RAISING 193 

same  mixture  of  Nox-i-cide  Dip  and  Disinfectant  go  over  the  whole  hog 
house,  clean  up  the  pens,  burn  the  infested  bedding,  and  spray  thoroughly 
with  the  Dip  and  Disinfectant,  1  part  to  60  parts  water.  Put  in  fresh 
bedding  and  put  the  clean  hogs  back  in  these  quarters.  In  ten  days  repeat 
the  whole  performance,  to  insure  getting  all  the  nits  that  hatch  in  the 
meantime.  Now  you  have  a  clean  vermin-free  hog-pen.  Keep  things  clean, 
and  don't  let  any  new  specimen  join  the  herd  without  getting  a  course  of 
the  Dip  treatment;  otherwise  you  may  have  all  the  work  to  do  over.  Now 
fix  up  a  scratching  or  rubbing  post,  with  an  old  cloth  on  it,  and  keep  this 
mop  saturated  with  the  Dip;  so  the  hogs  can  attend  to  their  own  future 
treatment.  Every  once  in  a  while  look  each  animal  over  so  as  to  be  safe, 
and  at  the  first  sign  of  lice  commence  the  above  vigorous  treatment. 


A  Fine  Type  of  Poland-China  Hog 

In  summer  the  hog  vat  or  wallowing  vat  will  be  most  convenient.  A 
14-inch  depth  will  make  a  nice  bath  for  the  hogs;  with  a  little  of  Nox-i-cide 
Dip  and  Disinfectant  on  the  surface;  this  will  settle  the  lice  problem,  keep 
the  skin  healthy  and  in  the  pink  of  condition.  'When  the  bath  is  fresh,  the 
hogs  will  drink  a  little  of  it;  which  is  excellent  treatment  for  internal 
parasites.  Such  treatment  with  Conkey's  Dip  and  Disinfectant  means  no 
lice,  no  skin  disease,  fewer  internal  parasites;  and  goes  a  long  way  toward 
insuring  the  herd  against  epidemic  diseases,  including  the  dreaded  cholera. 

WORMS,  WORMS,    If  the  worms  don't  like  your  hog,  that  is,  don't  find 

WORMS!  him   comfortable,   they   will   move.     You   can   serve 

them  with  notice  to  leave  premises  by  a  vermifuge 

dose  of  Conkey's  Stock  Tonic,  put  in  the  regular  feed  for  the  hog.  The 
hog  will  like  Stock  Tonic  treatment,  and  will  thrive  on  it,  because  it  is  an 
appetizer  and  invigorator.  He  will  eat  more;  and  as  Stock  Tonic  insures 
digestion,  he  will  get  more  food  value  put  of  the  rations  and  will  gain 
more.  Meanwhile  the  vermifuge  properties  in  the  Stock  Tonic  will  serve 
notice  on  the  worms,  and  they  will  come  away  by  hundreds.  After  that 


194 


CONKEY'S   STOCK   BOOK 


your  hog  will  get  the  benefit  of  all  food  fed,  and  you  and  the  hog  will  both 
reap   a  profit.     Stop  feeding  worms. 

WINTER  AND    Your  hogs  need  special  protection,  winter  and  summer, 
SUMMER  for  their  coats  are  thin,  and  the  scattered  hairs  hardly 

save  them  from  burning  heat  or  piercing  cold.  They  are 
the  most  sensitive  of  all  animals  to  cold.  How  they  will  "crowd  up"  the 
first  chilly  night — maybe  suffocating  or  trampling  some  of  their  number 
and  certainly  exposing  all  to  cold  or  pneumonia  by  getting  overheated  ana 
then  suddenly  chilled. 

HOW  TROUBLE    Don't  fear  to  keep  things  too  clean.     It  is  a  thing  that 
STARTS  can't  be  done,  you  can  tell  your  easy-going  neighbor. 

One  careless  man  in  the  community  can  start  an  epi- 
demic that  will  clean  out  profits  on  a  dozen  different  farms.     Don't  stand 


Individual  Hog  Cots  for  Brood  Sows 

in  doubt,  but  up  with  the  can  of  Conkey's  Nox-i-cide  Dip  and  Disinfectant, 
pour  a  few  tablespoonfuls  into  a  bucket  of  water  for  diluting,  and  disinfect 
everything  as  a  preventive.  It's  safe  to  be  sure.  Never  trust  another  man's 
hogs.  Take  it  for  granted  every  new  animal  may  be  an  infected  one,  and 
dip  and  disinfect  accordingly.  This  is  the  only  safe  way  against  terrible 
and  sudden  losses.  See  page  218  for  more  about  Dip  and  Disinfectant. 


MAKE  SURE  Great  precaution  should  always  be  taken  with  the  new 
boar  introduced  to  the  herd.  Most  successful  swine 
husbandmen  make  a  practice  of  actually  quarantining  a  new  boar  for  a 
few  weeks  before  making  use  of  him — no  matter  what  the  evident  good 
health  of  the  animal,  or  what  the  guarantee  regarding  his  undiseased 
condition.  If  he  has  been  shipped  in,  traveling  in  a  car,  there  is  danger 
of  infection  en  route  from  various  sources.  Make  sure  on  your  own 
account.  Use  Conkey's  Nox-i-cide  Dip  and  Disinfectant  according  to  direc- 
tions with  every  new  animal. 


SWINE  RAISING 195 

FARROWING  If  there  is  any  one  particular  time  when  it  pays  to  treat 
swine  right  that  time  is  at  the  farrowing.  It  pays  to  give 
this  extra  necessary  attention,  and  let  the  little  fellows  have  the  right  start. 
Separate  the  brood  sows,  so  that  they  will  be  free  from  disturbance.  Sep- 
arate pens  in  the  hog  house  will  do;  but  most  up-to-date  stockmen  favor 
individual  hog  cots,  which  have  the  advantage  of  all  possible  safety  and 
give  each  sow  and  litter  better  chance  to;  thrive.  Then  they  can  be  moved 
easily — a  great  advantage  for  cleanliness,  less  risk  from  contagion,  etc. 
Besides,  movable  cots  make  it  possible  to  regulate  the  amount  of  exercise 
for  each  hog  family;  as  the  cots  can  be  moved  near  or  far  from  the  feeding 
trough  to  suit  conditions.  You  may  have  your,  own  notions  of  hog  archi- 
tecture; but  there  is  nothing  better  in  practice  than  the  movable,  sanitary, 
individual  hog  cots  pictured.  No.  1  has  upright  sides  with  shed  roof. 
No.  2  has  gable  sides  and  is  on  skids,  making  it  easy  to  move.  No.  1  is 
about  the  latest  in  hog  bungalows,  and  would  meet  the  ideals  of  a  breeder 
of  ultra  fastidious  notions.  Notice  the  scantling  around  the  sides,  a  few 
inches  up  from  the  bottom,  which  makes  a  safe  refuge  for  the  pigs  when  that 
mountain  of  sow  flesh  heaves  itself. 

Each  cot  should  be  thoroughly  and  newly  disinfected  in  preparation  for 
the  farrowing.  If  possible  it  should  be  moved  to  new  fresh  ground;  if  not, 
the  old  ground  should  be  limed  and  freshly  turned,  then  covered  with  nice 
clean  straw — not  too  deep  or  the  pigs  may  get  lost  and  smother;  not  too 
long  straw,  as  there  is  danger  of  entangling.  Oat-straw  or  hay,  and  leaves, 
entirely  free  from  strangling  dust,  will  be  excellent.  Should  the  mother 
sow  be  dangerously  heavy  or  clumsy,  better  take  the  piglets  out  of  the 
mother's  pen,  and  only  give  them  back  to  her  for  nursing.  They  will  do 
nicely  in  a  chaff-lined  box  or  barrel  for  a  few  days  until  better  able  to 
rough  it.  Trouble?  Sure  it  is — but  there  is  a  certain  amount  of  trouble 
necessary  sometimes  to  save  big  losses.  The  danger  from  the  old  sow's 
eating  her  pigs  can  be  overcome  by  proper  feeding.  Salt  pork  fed  the  old 
sow  has  usually  prevented  this  trouble.  Some  breeders  sponge  the  little  pigs 
over  with  mucilage,  aloes  and  asafetida.  The  best  way  is  to  save  the 
animal  from  this  depraved  appetite  by  proper  feeding,  keeping  the  bowels 
open  by  means  of  bran,  linseed  meal,  roots,  etc.,  and  by  sufficient  exercise. 
This  is  another  point  in  favor  of  mixing  Conkey's  Stock  Tonic  with  the 
feed  for  the  brood  sow;  it  will  not  only  be  a  tonic  and  alterative,  but  will 
keep  the  bowels  open  and  prevent  abnormal  craving. 

THE  BOAR     Whether  your  stock  is  common  or  well  bred,  you  cannot 
get  the  best  results  unless  yoi>  have  good  pure  bred  males. 

Put  aside  all  hesitancy  on  account  of  cost.     You  won't  see   the   first 
cost  after  you  have  one  well  bred  litter.     But  if  you  can't  afford  the  best 
animal  procurable  in  your  parts  for  sire,  combine  with  other  farmers  in- 
the  same  fix,  in  your  neighborhood,  and  own  a  really  fine  boar  in  common,. 
This  is  plain  hog  sense — not  Socialism.     Even  very  ordinary  stock,  if  you  ; 
happen  to  have  that  kind,  can  be  graded  up  quickly  by  the  use  of  a  strictly: '.' 
high-grade  boar.     At  the  lowest  estimate  every  pig  sired  by  a  pure  bred  ! 


196 CONKEY'S  STOCK   BOOK 

male  is  worth  $1.00  more  than  if  sired  by  a  scrub.  On  this  basis  you  can 
estimate  your  high  grade  animal  earning  in  the  first  fall — with  at  least 
twenty  services,  averaging  six  pigs  to  the  litter — $120.  This  represents 
the  lowest  possible  estimate  of  the  improvement  to  your  original  stock. 

Keep  in  mind  that  a  good  hog  will  respond  to  good  treatment,  because 
he  is  bred  for  that.  The  good  hog  will  be  ready  for  market  in  three-fourths 
the  time  it  takes  to  grow  and  fatten  the  scrub.  Count  this  saving,  when 
you  go  to  purchase  a  high-grade  boar. 

Respect  good  ancestors,  but  select  your  boar  for  good  individual  qualities 
— not  alone  for  his  excellent  breed.  You  use  him  as  an  individual,  and  he 
will  transmit  his  individual  qualities,  sporting  back  to  good  and  bad  qualities 
of  his  dam  and  sire.  In  the  individual,  then,  look  for  masculinity,  strong, 
virile  characteristics;  and  in  addition  make  doubly  sure  that  this  most 
important,  hardest  worked  member  of  your  herd  has  natural  constitution 
and  bodily  vigor.  Avoid  coarseness,  but  get  strength.  You  can  judge  a 
good  deal  by  general  form  and  carriage. 

Sometimes,  however,  a  very  good-seeming  individual  proves  unfit  as  a 
sire.  The  first  trial  is  the  test.  But  if,  after  due  experiment,  the  animal 
proves  unfit,  there  is  nothing  left  but  to  finish  him  for  the  butcher,  and  get 
a  better  boar.  Don't  foist  him  on  any  other  stockman,  for  time  is  valuable 
to  every  man  in  this  business.  Be  square. 

One  important  consideration  is  disposition.  Good  manners  are  profit- 
able, even  in  hogs.  Many  boars  are  extremely  ugly-natured,  fighting  all  the 
time.  Sometimes  this  fault  is  due  to  handling  in  the  part  of  the  attendant 
or  owner.  But  get  rid  of  the  quarrelsome  boar;  he's  a  mighty  unsatisfac- 
tory animal  to  have  around.  On  the  other  hand,  a  certain  amount  of  fret- 
iulness,  restiveness,  etc.,  is  to  be  expected  from  the  vigorous  animal  in 
breeding  season.  He  should  be  given  special  attention.  Note  what  is  said 
about  feeds  and  feeding,  page  54.  Not  properly  managed  at  this  time,  he 
may  be  ruined  in  disposition  and  become  unmanageable. 

A  boar  can  hardly  reach  maturity  before  twelve  months;  and  as  a  sire, 
should  be  considered  in  his  prime  from  one  to  five  years  old.  Do  not  use 
him,  except  for  limited  purposes  of  exercise  and  test,  before  one  year  old, 
or  he  will  be  injured  in  growth  and  cannot  be  counted  on  for  future  vigor- 
ous off-spring.  Patience  is  necessary  sometimes  in  inducing  the  animal 
to  perform  his  first  service.  Only  one  service  should  be  allowed  to  a  sow, 
as  more  will  increase  neither  the  number  nor  the  vigor  of  the  brood, 
opinions  to  the  contrary  notwithstanding. 

THE  SOW  In  the  same  way,  the  sow  should  not  be  used  before  she  has 
a  full  year's  growth.  Make  haste  slowly,  if  you  want  useful- 
ness, strong  pigs  and  full  litters.  Feed  the  brood  sow  throughout  the  112 
days'  gestation  period  with  a  good  balanced  ration  to  provide  bone  and  fat 
forming  material  for  her  little  ones.  Read  page  54  on  feeds  and  feeding. 
Remember  that  any  food  having  some  element  out  of  proportion  to  the 
natural  needs  of  the  animal  body  will  result  in  (1)  waste  of  that  surplus 
element,  of  (2)  in  over  development  of  that  part  of  the  body,  with  corre- 
sponding deficiency  in  another.  The  food  the  sow  gets  before  farrowing 
determines  the  character  of  her  pigs.  Food  high  in  ash  will  make  the  little 
ones  all  frame  and  weak  in  flesh.  Food  high  in  fat  and  low  in  ash — chances 
are  the  pigs  will  be  over  fat  with  no  frame  to  support  them,  and  what  frame 
they  have,  built  at  the  expense  of  the  sow's  bone  material;  so  that  her 
skeleton  will  be  "soft"  and  liable  to  easy  fracture. 

Read  carefully  pages  52-55  on  feeds  and  feeding  and  FEED  A  BAL- 
ANCED RATION, 


SWINE  RAISING 197 

Remember  your  brood  sows  especially  need  exercise.  In  winter  it  will 
be  hard  to  make  them  take  this  through  the  snow.  So  instead  of  letting 
your  hogs  feed  from  the  troughs  and  then  immediately  return  to  their 
comfortable  beds,  keep  them  on  their  feet  by  a  new  system  entirely;  make 
paths  in  the  lot  so  they  can  easily  travel  through  the  snow,  and  then 
scatter  their  food  in  the  paths.  They  will  spend  considerable  time  col- 
lecting it,  and  on  account  of  the  exercise  and  pure  air,  tend  to  much  heartier 
feeding. 

Be  good  to  the  good  sow.  When  she  proves  herself  a  good  mother 
with  nice  litters  of  healthy  offspring,  and  gives  them  plenty  of  nourishment 
the  first  week — for  on  this  right  start  so  much  of  their  future  profitable 
development  will  depend — when  she  does  this,  get  out  your  memorandum 
book  and  pencil  and  count  up  what  she  is  worth  to  you,  according  to 
whether  she  farrows  once  or  twice  yearly.  When  you  see  it  all  down  in 
your  own  figures,  black  and  white,  then  you'll  vote  her  a  little  life  insurance 
and  care  for  her  the  best  you  know  how.  Well  cared  for  in  good  comfort- 
able, disinfected  quarters  (see  page  190  on  Conkey's  Nox-i-cide  Dip  and 
Disinfectant);  free  from  lice  (see  pages  192  and  200,  also  pages  218  and  219 
on  Nox-i-cide  Dip  and  Disinfectant);  thriving  and  well-fed  (see  pages  52 
to  55,  also  pages  193  and  207  on  Conkey's  Stock  Tonic) ;  she  will  keep  up 
her  constitutional  vigor  maybe  ten  years  or  more,  and  will  represent  a  small 
fortune  for  an  appreciative  owner. 


198 CONKEY'S  STOCK  BOOK 

Common  Diseases  of  Swine 

ABORTION  This  is  rarely  a  contagious  disease  with  sows,  but  moldy,  fer- 
mented foods  have  been  known  to  cause  it.  Careful  feeding 
with  wholesome  food  is  a  preventive.  Also  avoid  salting  the  slop  and  in 
every  case  leave  the  salt  where  the  sows  can  help  themselves  as  they  want 
it.  This  is  the  only  safe  way  to  insure  their  getting  what  they  need  and  not 
too  much. 

BARRENNESS  Get  the  sow  in  healthy  condition  by  the  use  of  Stock 
Tonic  in  the  regular  feed.  This  is  tonic,  alterative  treat- 
ment. Do  not  give  any  other  medicine  but  once  a  day  for  2  or  3  weeks 
before  breeding  her  flush  out  the  vagina  with  a  gallon  of  tepid  water,  in 
which  is  dissolved  1  dram  of  permanganate  of  potash.  Use  a  rubber  tube 
and  funnel  for  this  operation.  Mate  the  sow  about  6  or  7  hours  after 
flushing. 

CANKER —  Young   pigs   are   the   worst    sufferers    from   this   trouble, 

SORE  MOUTH  which  usually  comes  in  winter.  First  symptoms  are  loss 
of  appetite  and  running  saliva  at  the  mouth.  The  gums 
are  sore,  sometimes  so  badly  affected  that  the  teeth  drop  out.  The  jaws 
swell,  crack  and  scabs  form  on  mouth  and  snout.  If  the  disease  spreads, 
it  affects  the  nasal  cavities  and  causes  "snuffles."  If  it  spreads  to  the  stom- 
ach and  intestines  it  sets  up  a  very  foul  diarrhea.  The  animals  may  die  in 
one  week  or  linger  for  four  or  five  weeks. 

Treatment  is  pretty  sure  when  followed  as  directed:  first  separate  the 
sick  animals,  clean  up  and  disinfect  thoroughly  with  a  solution 
of  Nox-i-cide  Dip  and  Disinfectant,  1  teaspoonful  to  a  pint  of  water.  With 
a  solution  of  half  this  strength  swab  out  the  mouth,  which  will  get  rid  of  the 
patches  of  dead  and  diseased  tissue.  Instead  of  swabbing,  you  can  cluck 
the  head  into  a  pail  of  water  containing  l/2  cupful  Nox-i-cide  Dip  and  Disin- 
fectant. If  the  mouth  is  very  sore  treat  in  addition  with  Conkey's  Pain 
Lotion,  spraying  or  swabbing.  Repeat  above  treatment  daily  until  cured. 

CATARRHAL  RHINITIS —  The  general  symptoms  are  those  of  cold, 
ACUTE  CHORYZA  with  sensitiveness  to  cold.  Sometimes  chills 

are    a    symptom,    with    inflammation    of    the 

eyes  and  running  at  the  nose.  Usually  there  is  no  appetite  and  the  animal 
is  very  constipated.  The  running  at  the  nose  changes  later  to  a  thick, 
clogging  substance,  making  breathing  difficult,  and  the  animal  snuffles. 
This  disease  is  also  called  "snuffles,"  being  one  of  three  totally  different 
disorders  which  are  given  that  popular  name.  Usually  the  attack  is  over  in 
a  week  or  two,  but  if  neglected  the  animal  may  fall  victim  to  some  disease, 
such  as  bronchitis,  pneumonia,  catarrh,  etc. 

Treatment  Put  the  animal  on  sick  diet  and  see  that  it  has  warm,  clean, 
well  lighted  quarters.  If  possible  get  it  into  the  sunlight  part 
of  the  time.  Give  a  purge,  such  as  1  to  2  oz.  Epsom  salts.  Then  mix  with 
the  feed  Conkey's  Stock  Tonic,  which  will  tone  and  invigorate  the  system, 
and  at  the  same  time  keep  the  bowels  from  clogging.  Prepare  the  milk  or 
slop  for  sick  hogs  with  extra  care  and  warm  slightly.  For  the  nasal  dis- 
charge, also  for  the  sore  throat,  etc.,  a  tablespoonful  of  Conkey's  Nox-i-cide 
Dip  and  Disinfectant  to  a  gallon  of  pure,  clean  water  will  be  found  very 


DISEASES  OF  SWINE 199 

helpful,  and  given  twice  a  day,  or  put  where  the  hog  can  help  himself  any- 
time. If  you  have  a  closed  shed  for  the  hog  try  burning  tar  as  a  fumigant, 
as  this  will  help  to  clear  the  nasal  passages. 

CHOLERA  We  may  as  well  call  Hog  Cholera  and  Swine  Plague  one  and 
the  same  disease.  In  Hog  Cholera  it  is  the  intestines  that 
show  most  affection,  and  in  Swine  Plague  the  lungs.  But  the  general 
symptoms  are  very  similar  and  the  directions  for  controlling  Hog  Cholera 
serve  also  for  Swine  Plague.  In  a  case  where  Hog  Cholera  is  suspected  one 
of  the  dead  animals  should  be  cut  open  and  if  red  spots  and  raised  ulcers 
are  found  on  the  lining  of  the  intestines,  especially  of  the  large  intestines, 
the  case  is  true  cholera.  You  cannot  always  tell  by  general  symptoms, 
although  in  acute  cases  the  hog  has  fever,  is  dull,  wants  to  lie  down  con- 
stantly, shows  gluey,  sticky  discharges  of  the  eyes,  with  a  watery  diarrhea. 
Death  comes  quickly,  usually  in  a  few  days.  All  discharges  of  the  sick  animal 
are  highly  infectious,  especially  the  urine,  although  the  germ  itself  is  so 
small,  it  has  never  been  seen  by  the  most  powerful  microscopes.  As  we 
have  said,  all  discharges  are  infectious  and  will  spread  the  disease  to  other 
animals,  or  pollute  the  ground  so  that  it  cannot  be  safely  used  for  three  or 
four  months.  The  dead  body  is  also  infectious  and  should  be  burned  or 
buried  in  quick  lime.  If  simply  buried  it  may  be  drained  by  the  next  rain- 
storm and  the  deadly  germs  will  pollute  the  first  stream  and  carry  the 
plague.  Tarring  and  feathering  is  too  good  for  the  man  who  simply  dumps 
his  dead  hog  in  a  hole,  or  carts  it  off  to  the  woods.  He  is  an  anarchist  and 
is  waving  a  bloody  flag  over  every  farmer  and  stockman  in  the  community. 

Treatment  You  can  control  Hog  Cholera  by  the  following  treatment:  In 
the  first  place,  throughout  the  hog  quarters  use  Conkey's 
Nox-i-cide  Dip  and  Disinfectant,  which  is  a  perfect  germicide.  Occasionally 
mix  a  little  with  the  slop  feed,  one  pint  to  one  quart  to  a  barrel  of  slop  is 
the  right  proportion.  Keep  all  troughs,  utensils,  etc.,  clean,  using  Nox-i- 
cide  Dip  and  Disinfectant  in  the  wash  water.  Provide  warm  dry  sleeping 
quarters.  See  that  all  water  is  pure.  Improper  feeding,  unsanitary  condi- 
tion of  the  hog  lot,  damp  or  cold  sleeping  quarters,  dirty  drinking  and 
feeding  utensils,  will  predispose  the  herd  to  this  disease,  simply  by  lower- 
ing the  general  vitality  so  that  they  fall  easy  victims.  On  the  other  hand, 
Conkey's  Stock  Tonic  in  the  feed  will  build  up  constitutional  vigor  and  the 
Stock  Tonic  is  a  fortifying  tonic.  It  will  keep  the  organs  and  blood  in 
condition,  hence  give  the  animal  resisting  power.  Keep  the  herd  away 
from  the  public  road  and  have  your  hog  lot  on  a  part  of  the  farm  where 
men  or  animals  from  other  farms  will  not  pass  through  it.  All  new  animals, 
or  stock  exhibited  at  shows,  lairs,  etc.,  should  be  quarantined  away  from 
the  herd  for  at  least  one  month,  so  as  to  make  sure  there  is  no  infection. 

Hogs  that  have  recovered  from  Hog  Cholera  are  immune.  From  such 
hogs  it  is  possible  to  prepare  a  serum  for  innoculating  other  hogs  as  a 
preventive  of  this  disease.  This  work  is  under  government  supervision 
and  the  serum  can  be  obtained  on  application  to  the  nearest  experiment 
station.  Usually  the  first  treatment  when  applied  to  the  whole  herd  immedi- 
ately on  the  outbreak  of  Hog  Cholera  will  make  the  exposed  animals  per- 
manently immune.  If  not  exposed  for  some  weeks,  the  immunity  may, 
and  usually  does,  disappear.  According  to  the  method  of  innoculation, 
the  hog  treated  will  thus  be  immune  from  Hog  Cholera  (1)  for  at  least 
several  weeks,  or  (2)  permanently. 


200 CONKEY'S  STOCK  BOOK 

Warning  Did  you  ever  hear  from  anyone  who  could  sell  you  a  sure 
Hog  Cholera  Medicine?  That  man  is  not  working  in  the 
spirit  of  either  science  or  law.  It  is  actually  proved  that  no  medicine  can 
positively  attack  the  germs  of  Hog  Cholera  or  Swine  Plague.  Our  own 
Stock  Vigor  cannot  itself  kill  the  germ  of  Hog  Cholera,  but  it  will  correct 
the  digestive  trouble  and  fortify  the  animal  to  resist  the  disease.  No 
remedy  on  the  market  can  truthfully  make  a  stronger  claim.  Fortunately 
most  cases  of  Hog  Cholera  are  not  true  cholera.  Conkey's  Stock  Tonic 
is  the  proper  remedy  for  any  of  the  common  outbreaks  of  digestive  dis- 
turbances usually  called  Cholera.  If  you  fear  that  the  case  is  true  Hog 
Cholera  make  a  postmortem  examination  of  the  first  hog  to  die  and  if  the 
button-like  ulcers  are  found  in  the  intestines,  at  once  notify  the  proper 
authorities,  for  no  so-called  Cholera-cure  will  help  you. 

Use    Conkey's    Nox-i-cide    Dip    and    Disinfectant   freely,    and    Conkey's 
Stock  Tonic  in  doses  as  directed  on  packages,  mixed  with  the  regular  feed. 

COTTONSEED  Cotton  meal  is  fine  for  hogs,  but  if  given  in  a  heavier 
POISONING  ration  than  l/^  of  a  pound  a  day  to  50  pounds  live- 
weight,  there  is  pretty  sure  to  be  trouble  from  cotton- 
seed poisoning.  The  animal  will  show  signs  of  "thumping"  (see  Thumps), 
that  is  spasmodic  jerking  of  the  whole  body.  If  the  owner  takes  warning 
and  cuts  off  the  cottonseed  there  is  no  further  trouble.  But  neglect  will 
usually  end  in  death  from  suffocation  in  4  to  10  weeks. 

INDIGESTION      This  may  come  h'om  worms,  or  from  a  sudden  change  in 
quantity   or  manner  of  feeding,   or  from  irregularity  in 

feeding,  or  from  wrong  kinds  of  feed,  especially  too  much  rich  food.  The 
symptoms  are  loss  of  appetite,  bloating,  uneasiness,  sometimes  cramps, 
scouring,  often  coughing  and  thumping  or  jerking  of  the  body.  Often 
there  is  a  depraved  appetite,  the  hogs  eating  such  substances  as  old  plaster, 
rotted  boards,  stone,  dirt,  etc.  Often  they  will  squeal  desperately  for  food 
but  will  not  touch  it  when  offered.  Young  pigs  will  often  show  no  loss  of 
appetite  but  will  fail  to  thrive  in  spite  of  a  plentiful  ration. 

Treatment  Look  for  the  cause  of  trouble  in  the  system  of  feeding.  If 
too  rich  or  too  much  food,  or  too  sudden  a  change,  correct  the 
trouble.  Then  mix  with  the  feed  Conkey's  Stock  Tonic  according  to  direc- 
tions. This  is  tonic  treatment  and  will  bring  the  hogs  around  to  thriving 
condition.  It  will  also  get  rid  of  worms  if  worms  are  the  cause  of  the  trouble 
In  the  case  of  young  pigs  which  are  stunted,  change  from  hard  to  soft  feed. 

LICE  Lice  do  not  come  from  filth, 
but  they  stay  where  filth  is. 
Lice  come  from  the  louse-eggs  which 
you  often  see  fastened  with  a  gummy 
substance  to  the  bristles  of  the  hog — 
sometimes  as  many  as  five  or  six 
eggs  on  a  single  hair.  Look  for  them 
back  of  the  ears,  on  the  neck,  breast, 
etc.,  especially  in  the  spring,  and  it  is 
well  to  keep  a  sharp  lookout  for  them 
all  through  summer.  It  will  not  pay 
to  spend  good  time  and  care  and  feed  Hog  louse  and  eggs  attached  to  bristle 
on  raising  hog  lice,  and  it  is  entirely 
unnecessary  to  put  up  with  them  as  treatment  is  very  effective  as  follows: 


DISEASES  OF  SWINE 201 

Treatment  Dip,  scrub  or  spray  with  Conkey's  Nox-i-cide  Dip  and  Dis- 
infectant according  to  directions  on  package  and  also  as  ad- 
vised page  193  on  Swine.  Repeat  the  operation  in  a  week  or  ten  days  in 
order  to  kill  every  nit.  These  nits  hatch  out  after  the  first  dressing  and 
unless  you  go  after  them  lice  will  soon  be  swarming  over  your  hogs  once 
more.  Nor  is  this  all.  Go  over  every  part  of  the  hog  quarters  and  clean  up 
and  disinfect  thoroughly  with  the  Nox-i-cide  Dip  and  Disinfectant,  using 
a  spray  pump  or  sprinkling  can.  Clean  up  and  whitewash  the  sleeping 
places,  pens  and  houses.  Let  no  new  animal  join  the  herd  until  thoroughly 
examined  and  treated  for  lice.  With  clean  hogs,  clean  quarters  and  regular 
use  of  Nox-i-cide  Dip  and  Disinfectant  you  can  keep  out  of  the  lice  problem. 

KIDNEY  WORMS         This  worm  is 
often    blamed 

for  symptoms  of  paralysis,  but  there 
is  no  proof.  However,  it  does  enough 
mischief  otherwise,  in  time  completely 

destroying  the   substance    of   the   kid-  Kidney  worm 

ney.  Not  much  is  known  of  the  kid- 
ney worm,  although  it  is  very  large,  the  female  measuring  3  ft.  in  some 
cases,  but  usually  much  less.  The  male  is  about  12  inches  long.  The  egg 
is  passed  in  the  urine,  and  its  presence  is  the  only  sure  proof  of  the  worm, 
except  post  mortem  examination.  No  medicine  will  reach  kidney  worms, 
hence  there  is  no  treatment. 

MANGE  This  is  a  common  itching  skin  disease  of  swine,  caused  by 
a  parasite  which  buries  itself  below  the  surface,  irritating  the 
skin  and  forming  blotches  and  pimples,  usually  very  much  inflamed  and 
filled  with  pus.  These  form  into  crusts  and  scabs,  usually  appearing  first 
about  the  eyes  and  ears,  but  quickly  spreading  down  the  neck  to  the  lower 
part  of  the  body.  Sometimes  scabs  completely  cover  the  body.  Itching  is 
intense  and  young  pigs  often  die  from  the  irritation;  in  any  case  there  is 
great  loss  of  flesh.  This  disease  is  contagious  and  will  spread  to  the  whole 
pen  or  yard.  The  animals  will  rub  and  scratch  themselves  on  posts  and 
corners,  thus  helping  to  spread  the  infection. 

Treatment  The  hogs  not  affected  should  be  separated  from  the  others 
and  the  affected  animals  and  the  old  quarters  should  be  put 
through  a  thorough  course  of  Conkey's  Nox-i-cide  Dip  and  Disinfectant 
treatment.  Dipping  in  a  solution  of  Nox-i-cide  Dip  and  Disinfectant  as 
directed  is  the  simplest  treatment,  but  if  the  weather  is  cold  or  the  herd  is 
small  the  best  plan  is  to  scrub  each  animal,  using  an  old  broom  dipped  in 
the  solution  according  to  directions.  In  a  week  or  ten  days  repeat  the  treat- 
ment. Where  the  herd  is  fairly  large  a  spray  pump  will  be  found  convenient 
for  treatment.  With  the  same  solution  of  Nox-i-cide  Dip  and  Disinfectant 
go  over  the  quarters  thoroughly.  Clean  up  thoroughly  and  whitewash. 
This  will  put  the  infected  quarters  in  good  condition.  Saturate  old  clothes 
with  Nox-i-cide  Dip  and  Disinfectant,  using  double  strength,  and  fasten 
these  to  the  rubbing  posts  or  scratching  corners,  so  that  when  the  pigs 
scratch  themselves  they  will  heal  instead  of  irritating  the  part. 

-  There  is  another  kind  of  mange  not  commonly  understood.  The  para- 
site in  this  case  attacks  the  hair  follicles  so  that  we  call  this  "follicular 
mange."  The  parasites  work  deep  down  into  the  roots  of  the  bristles  so 
that  it  is  almost  impossible  to  reach  them  with  an  ordinary  skin  application. 
A  practical  plan  is  to  market  such  affected  animals  before  they  lose  market 
condition.  The  dip  treatment  above  is  the  only  possible  treatment  for  this 


202 CONKEY'S  STOCK  BOOK 

kind  of  mange,  but  it  is  necessary  to  make  many  and  frequent  applications 
of  the  Dip  and  Disinfectant  to  make  sure  of  getting  the  liquid  well  down 
into  the  open  pustules  or  sores. 

MILK  FEVER        This  is  not  so  common  with  sows  as  with  cows.     The 
best  advice  is  to  prevent  all   danger   of  milk  fever  by 

feeding  lightly  just  before  and  after  farrowing,  using  Conkey's  Stock  Tonic 
with  the  feed  to  keep  the  bowels  open.  Also  give  plenty  of  exercise  before 
farrowing. 

PARALYSIS —  The  animal  first  loses  control  of  its  hind  legs  and 

LOSS  OF  POWER     has  to  drag  its  body  along  on  the  front  feet  only. 

But  the  paralysis  steadily  creeps  over  the  whole  body. 

The  animal  feeds  about  as  usual  and  seems  to  feel  otherwise  well,  and 
does  not  lose  condition  until  the  last  stages  of  the  disease.  It  used  to  be 
thought  that  this  trouble  came  from  kidney  worms  but  of  this  there  is  no 
proof.  The  probable  cause  is  wrong  feeding,  especially  too  heavy  feeding 
of  corn. 

Treatment  Instead  of  the  common  practice  of  firing,  sinking  a  red-hot 
iron  %  inch  in  diameter  about  2  inches  deep,  so  as  to  get  past 
the  fat,  into  actual  muscle,  we  advise  simple,  humane  treatment  with  Con- 
key's  Absorbent  used  as  a  counter  irritant,  rubbed  briskly  along  the  spine 
over  the  whole  loin.  In  addition  correct  the  feed,  cutting  off  all  corn  and 
giving  Conkey's  Stock  Tonic  in  the  feed,  which  should  be  light  and  rather 
laxative.  Stock  Tonic  will  correct  the  digestion  and  the  disturbed  circula- 
tion. In  addition,  if  constipation  is  a  bad  symptom,  give  an  injection  of  soap 
or  oil  with  warm  water,  using  a  rubber  tube  and  funnel,  as  elsewhere 
described,, 

RICKETTS  This  usually  shows  in  your  pigs  as  stunted  growth,  lameness 
and  large  joints,  especially  swelling  of  the  hock  and  pastern. 
Sometimes  these  enlargements  appear  on  the  nasal  and  maxillary  bones, 
causing  hard  breathing  and  what  is  called  "bull"  nose  and  "snuffles."  The 
pigs  continue  to  get  lean,  grow  weaker  and  weaker  and  are  easy  marks  for 
such  diseases  as  pneumonia  or  enteritis. 

Treatment  The  whole  trouble  is  with  the  bones,  due  to  wrong  feed  or 
bad  digestion  of  food.  There  is  not  enough  lime  in  the  food 
to  make  the  bony  skeleton  hard  and  solid.  Starch  foods  increase  the  trouble 
but  good  rich  food  high  in  nitrogen  is  especially  needed.  Feed  middlings 
and  bran,  bone  meal,  and  milk  with  lime  water  added.  Mix  with  this  feed 
Conkey's  Stock  Tonic,  according  to  directions.  Clean  up  the  quarters,  let  in 
sunlight  and  fresh  air,  and  force  the  animals  to  exercise. 

SCOURS  Scouring  or  diarrhea  in  pigs  shows  fault  with  the  feed.  The 
feed  may  be  too  much  or  too  rich,  but  usually  the  fault  is  with 
the  quality  of  the  food.  For  instance,  mouldy  feed,  or  fermented  slop  very 
often  causes  diarrhea.  Or,  feeding  from  troughs  that  are  not  kept  sweet 
and  clean  may  cause  scours. 

Treatment      First  find  the  cause  of  the  trouble,  examining  feed  and  the 

feed  troughs.     Use  Conkey's  Nox-i-cide  Dip  and  Disinfectant 

and  thoroughly  clean  out  and  disinfect  all  feeding  utensils,  which  will  kill 

the  germs.    Watch  the  feed  carefully,  making  sure  it  is  sweet  and  clean  and 


DISEASES  OF  SWINE 203 

for  a  time  put  the  pigs  on  milk,  adding  one  ounce  of  lime  water  to  each 
quart.  Then  gradually  add  middlings,  then  cornmeal  and  flaxseed  meal. 

THUMPS  This  is  a  spasmodic  action  of  the  diaphram  in  young  pigs  and 
is  most  common  with  fat  and  thriving  porkers.  Sometimes  it 
starts  suddenly  after  heavy  eating,  but  worms  or  any  digestive  disorder  may 
cause  it.  There  is  spasmodic,  violent  jerking  of  the  body,  similar  to  hic- 
coughs in  human  beings.  The  animal  takes  little  or  no  food  or  exercise  and 
loses  condition.  Sometimes  it  is  permanently  stunted. 

Treatment  The  one  treatment  is  to  restore  good  digestive  order.  This 
means  mixing  Conkey's  Stock  Tonic  in  the  feed,  or  slop,  1 
tablespoon  to  every  8  hogs.  If  worms  are  the  cause,  Conkey's  Worm  Rem- 
edy will  get  rid  of  them.  Stop  feeding  corn  and  feed  instead  light  slop  mixed 
with  milk — for  instance,  middlings,  ground  oats,  barley  meal,  bran,  flaxseed 
meal.  As  they  improve,  add  a  little  corn  meal  and  10  per  cent,  digester 
tankage.  After  complete  recovery  see  that  a  veterinary  salt  is  kept  in  a  dry 
place  where  the  hogs  can  help  themselves  to  it  any  time.  Make  this  veteri- 
nary salt  as  follows:  Common  barrel  salt,  45  Ibs.,  Stock  Vigor,  5  Ibs.,  mix 
thoroughly.  Where  indigestion  is  the  cause  be  sure  to  give  less  food,  more 
charcoal,  or  wood  ashes  and  more  daily  exercise.  Use  Conkey's  Stock 
Tonic  for  treatment  as  it  will  help  digestion,  tone  up  the  organs  and  gradu- 
ally the  hog  can  be  put  back  on  the  heavy  fattening  ration. 

TUBERCULOSIS        Hogs  usually  become  affected  with  tuberculosis  from 
following  infected  cattle  or  from  being  fed  skim  milk 

which  is  infected.  Next  to  cattle,  swine  are  the  most  liable  to  tuberculosis, 
probably  because  they  are  pushed  hard  for  production,  just  as  dairy  cattle 
are,  and  the  constitution  is  weakened.  Do  not  let  your  hogs  follow 
cattle  that  have  not  been  tuberculin  tested,  and  use  no  creamery  by-products 
unless  they  are  positively  sterilized.  Young  stock,  and  stock  not  full  of 
natural  vigor,  are  most  liable  to  get  the  disease.  Sometimes  the  disease 
does  not  show  for  a  considerable  time.  Usually  there  is  a  cough,  especially 
after  drinking  or  exercise  and  most  often  in  the  morning.  There  is  quick 
breathing  and  the  glands  of  the  neck  enlarge,  with  general  digestive  dis- 
turbance and  wasting  away. 

Treatment  Treatment  is  not  practical  on  account  of  the  danger  of  spread- 
ing infection.  But  prevention  is  the  real  wisdom,  that  is:  Keep 
your  stock  vigorous  and  well,  able  to  ward  off  disease  in  general.  Provide 
plenty  of  fresh  air  in  barn  or  stable;  use  plenty  of  Conkey's  Nox-i-cide  Dip 
and  Disinfectant  around  the  hog  quarters,  put  a  little  in  the  swill  feed 
occasionally,  about  a  pint  to  a  quart  per  barrel.  Build  up  constitutional 
vigor  with  occasional  use  of  the  Stock  Tonic  whenever  the  animals  show  any 
sign  of  sickness.  During  fattening  period  it  would  pay  to  use  Stock  Tonic 
regularly  to  insure  proper  digestion.  A  hog  that's  a  hog  will  eat  more  than 
it  can  digest  naturally;  that  is  why  hogs  under  the  strain  of  fattening  for 
the  market  should  always  be  given  Conkey's  Stock  Tonic  to  insure  full  use 
of  the  liberal  feed  given.  Remember  also  that  breeding  animals  are  under 
severe  strains,  hence  are  liable  to  tuberculosis  infection.  Stock  Tonic  is  just 
the  tonic  and  alterative  needed  by  breeding  animals. 

WORM  Young  growing  pigs  are  sometimes  affected  with  lung 

BRONCHITIS          worms.     The  first  signs  of  trouble  are  violent  fits  of 

coughing,  which  may  keep  up  for  weeks.     The  animal 

loses  growth,  in  fact,  often  becomes  permanently  stunted.     Inflammation 


204 


CONKEY'S  STOCK  BOOK 


of  the  bronchial  tubes  is  noticed  and  if  one  of  the  worst  affected  animals  is 
killed  and  the  bronchial  tube  is  opened  lengthwise  you  will  find  a  great 
number  of  small  round  thread  worms  about  1  inch  long. 

Treatment  This  is  a  hard  disease  to  treat  because  it  is  hard  to  get  a 
vermifuge  into  the  head  chambers.  A  teaspoonful  of  turpentine 
in  the  slop  taken  three  times  a  day  has  so  far  given  best  results,  numbing 
the  worms  so  that  it  is  easier  to  dislodge  them  by  coughing.  But  prevention 
is  the  best  advice.  Take  care  not  to  buy  any  young  pigs  affected  with 
worms  and  keep  the  young  stock  from  running  on  low  marshy  ground 
and  drinking  from  pools  in  suspected  pastures.  Treat  all  affected  animals 
with  Conkey's  Stock  Tonic  mixed  with  the  regular  feed,  and  give  occasional 
doses  to  all  animals  as  a  general  preventive  for  it  is  easier  to  keep  the  worms 
from  developing  than  it  is  to  get  them  out  after  they  get  into  the  bronchial 
tube. 


Intestinal  worm  of  the  hog 
(strongylus  dentatus) 


Round  worm.    Most  common  internal 
parasite  of  the  hog 


WORMS  Worms,  worms,  worms!     Few  hog  owners  realize  the  number 

and  kind  that  afflict  swine,  breaking  down  constitutional  vigor 
and  cutting  down  profits.  Just  about  half  the  diseases  of  swine  are  due 
to  worms,  worms,  worms.  Kidney  Worms,  Pin  Worms  (in  the  rectum) 
Long  Thread  Worms  (in  large  intestine),  Round  Worms  (in  intestines), 
Thornheaded  Worms  (in  intestines),  Strongylus  Dentatus  (in  the  intestines), 


Hog  trichina— 1.    Male.      2.    Female  and  young. 

3.    Young  trichina  worms  encysted  in 

muscle  fibre. 


Hog  tapeworm  (adult) 


Spiroptera  Strongyline  and  Sclerostotum  Dentatum  (in  the  intestines),  are  a 
few  only  of  these  disgusting  and  damaging  parasites.  There  is  no  sense  in 
putting  up  with  their  presence,  as  all  but  the  Kidney  Worm  can  be  success- 
fully treated  with  Conkey's  Worm  Remedy  where  active  treatment  must 
be  resorted  to.  In  general,  tonic  treatment  with  Conkey's  Stock  Tonic 
mixed  with  the  regular  food  will  be  all  that  is  necessary  as  the  Stock  Tonic 
includes  vermifuge  properties.  Get  after  the  worms,  the  little  ones,  the 
big  ones,  the  so-called  "harmless"  and  those  known  to  be  positively  danger- 
ous. Get  after  them  all,  for  all  of  them  are  profit  sappers.  Don't  pay  high 
prices  for  feed  and  let  it  go  simply  to  feeding  worms.  Read  carefully  page 
193  on  these  parasites. 


USEFUL  TABLES 


205 


Common  Measures 

60  drops  equal  1  teaspoonful. 
4  teaspoonfuls  equal  1  tablespoonful. 
8  teaspoonfuls  equal  1  ounce. 
4  ounces  equal  1  gill. 
4  gills  equal  1  pint. 

2  pjnts  equal  1  quart. 

4  quarts  equal  i  gallon. 

3  gallons  (about)  equal  1  pailful. 


To  Make  a  1%  Solution 
(1  Part  to  1OO) 

Yt  teaspoonful  to  1  tumbler  of  water. 

1  teaspoonful  to  1  pint  of  water. 
10  teaspoonfuls  to  1  gallon  of  water. 
Yt  tumbler  to  1  pail  of  water. 

1  tumbler  to  6  gallons  of  water. 

1  pint  to  12  gallons  of  water. 


Colt,  1  month  to  5  months     — 

"  5  "  "  9  " 
"  9  "  "18  " 
"  18  "  "  3  years 


Doses 

1*8  adult  dose      — 


X 


Calf,  1  month  to  3  months 
"    3       "       "6       " 
"    6       "       "1  year 
"     1       "       "2     " 


For  horses,  after  3rd  year  give  full  dose;  for  cattle,  full  dose  after  2nd  year.  Full  dose  is 
usually  the  same  for  horses  as  for  cattle;  except  in  case  of  solids,  when  for  cattle  it  is  well  to 
increase  the  dose  1A.  Full  grown  sheep  at  2  years,  takes  about  V*  dose  for  horse  or  cattle.  Full 
grown  pig  at  18  months,  takes  about  1A  dose  for  horse  or  cattle. 


Gestation  Table 


Time 
of  Service 

if 

Cows  283 
Days 

% 

i-l  M 

II 
w 

IN 

it 

Q 

Time 
of  Service 

*. 

.£ 

1° 

Cows  283 
Days 

& 

i—  I  03 
m  >*> 

l& 

w 

cvi 

s  « 

at  £> 

I3 

Jam 

lary    1 
6 

Dt 

c.    6 
11 

Oct.   10 

"     15 

May  30 
June    4 

April  22 
Vl     27 

July         5 
f*       10 

*V£ 

April  13 
15     18 

Dec.     1 
6 

Oct.   24 

"     29 

11 

16 

"     20 

9 

May    2 

"       IS 

"     19 

"     23 

"     11 

Nov.    3 

16 

21 

"     25 

14 

7 

"       20 

"     24 

"     28 

"     16 

"       8 

21 

26 

"     30 

19 

12 

"      25 

"     29 

May    3 

"     21 

"     13 

26 

31 

Nov.    4 

24 

17 

"      30 

July     4 

"       8 

"     26 

"     18 

Feb 

31 

'    io5 

Ja 

n.     5 
10 
15 

"       9 
"     14 

"     19 

Ju 

29 

y    4 
9 

Ju 

22 
27 
ne    1 

Auj 

*-J 

14 

*'      9 

"      14 
"     19 

"     13 

"     18 
"     23 

"     31 
Jan.     5 

"     10 

"     23 
"     28 
Dec.    3 

15 

20 

"     24 

14 

6 

19 

"     24 

"     28 

"     15 

"       8 

20 

25 

"     29 

19 

11 

24 

"     29 

June    2 

"     20 

"     13 

25 

30 

Dec.    4 

24 

16 

29 

Aug.    3 

"       7 

"     25 

"     18 

Mar 

h      2 

Fe 

b.     4 

"       9 

29 

21 

Sep 

.       3 

"       8 

"     12 

"     30 

"     23 

7 

9 

"      14 

A 

g-    3 

26 

8 

"     13 

"     17 

Feb.     4 

"     28 

12 

14 

"     19 

8 

Ju 

y    1 

13 

"     18 

"     22 

"       9 

Jan.     2 

17 

19 

"     24 

13 

*     6 

18 

"     23 

"     27 

"     14 

"       7 

22 

24 

"     29 

18 

11 

23 

"     28 

July     2 

"     19 

"      12 

27 

M 

r.    1 

Jan.     3 

23 

16 

28 

Sept.   2 

"       7 

"     24 

"     17 

Apr 

1         1 

6 

'       8 

28 

21 

Oct 

oberS 

*      7 

"     12 

Mar.    1 

"     22 

6 

11 

'     13 

S€ 

pt.    2 

26 

8 

"     12 

"     17 

"       6 

"     27 

11 

16 

'     18 

^      7 

31 

13 

"     17 

"     22 

"     11 

Feb.     1 

16 

21 

'     23 

12 

A 

g.    5 

18 

"     22 

"     27 

"     16 

6 

21 

26 

'     28 

17 

10 

23 

"     27 

Aug.    1 

"     21 

"     11 

26 

31 

Feb.     2 

22 

15 

28 

Oct.     2 

"       6 

"     26 

"     16 

May 

1 
6 

A 

ril  5 
10 

"       7 
"     12 

Oc 

27 
t.     2 

20 
25 

Nov 

2 

7 

7 

"     12 

"     11 
"     16 

"     31 
April  5 

"     21 
"     26 

11 

15 

"     17 

7 

30 

12 

"     17 

"     21 

10 

Mar.    3 

16 

20 

"     22 

12 

Se 

pt.    4 

17 

"     22 

"     26 

"     15 

"       8 

21 

25 

"     27 

17 

*      9 

22 

"     27 

"     31 

"     20 

"     13 

26 

30 

Mar.    4 

22 

14 

27 

Nov.    1 

Sept.   5 

"     25 

"     18 

31 

M 

y    5 

"       9 

27 

19 

Dec 

2 

"       6 

*    10 

"     30 

"     23 

Jun 

5 

10 

"     14 

N 

v.    1 

24! 

7 

"     11 

"     15 

May    5 

"     28 

10 

15 

"     19 

6 

29   1 

12 

"     16 

"     20 

"     10 

April   2 

15 

20 

"     24 

11 

Oc 

t.     4 

17 

"     21 

"     25 

"     15 

K       7 

20 

25 

"     29 

16 

9           "22 

"     26 

"     30 

"     20 

"     12 

25 

30 

April   3 

21 

14 

27 

Dec.     1 

Oct.     5 

"     25 

"     17 

30 

June    4 

15       8 

26 

19 

31 

5 

9 

"     29 

"     21 

Conkey's  Stock  Remedies 

Every  Conkey   Remedy  MUST 
SATISFY  YOU  or  MONEY  BACK 

Conkey's  Stock  Tonic— For  Cows,  Calves,  Horses,  Sheep  and  Swine.    Formerly 

called  Stock  Vigor.    Vigor  means  Profit!    Prices,  25  Ib.  pail,   $3.50:    12 

Ib.  pail,  $2.00;  5  Ib.  pkg.,  $1.00;  2#  Ib.,  50c;  1  Ib.,  25c. 

Conkey's  Worm  Remedy — A  prompt  and  powerful  remedy  for  stock  badly  in- 
fected.   Price  50c. 
Conkey's  Horse  Tonic — A  stimulating  medicine  for  debilitated  and  exhausted 

conditions.    Put  out  especially  for  fine  bred  horses.     Price  $1.00.    In 

West  and  Canada,  $1.25. 
Conkey's  Heave  Remedy — Corrects   digestive   disturbance  as  well  as  nervous 

derangement.    Tones  organs  back  to  health.    Price  $1.00. 
Conkey's  Colic  Remedy — A  life  saver  and  should  be  on  hand  for  emergency. 

Prices  50c  and  $1.00. 

Conkey's  Fistula  and  Poll  Evil  Remedy— Effective  and  very  humane.  Price  $2.00. 
Conkey's  Eye  Remedy — For  sore,  inflamed  or  weak  eyes.    Price  50c. 
Conkey's  Distemper  and  Cough  Remedy — For  all  cases  of  cough,  cold,  chill 

and  fever,  epizootic,  distemper  or  strangles,  pink  eye,  etc.     50c  and  $1. 
Conkey's  Healing  Powder — A  wonderful  gall  cure.    For  chafes,  sores,  etc.    A 

perfect  dry  dressing  (antiseptic)  for  surgical  cases.    Prices  25c  and  50c. 
Conkey's  Gall  Salve — A  healing  ointment  for  sores,  cuts,  harness  and  saddle 

galls,  chafes,  etc.    Prices  25c  and  50c. 
Conkey's  Warming  Liniment — Useful  for  emergencies.    Excellent  for  man  or 

beast.    Price  50c. 
Conkey's  Pain  Lotion — For  soreness,  throbbing  pains,  inflammation,  cuts,  wounds, 

burns.    Price  50c. 
Conkey's  Hoof  Remedy — Keeps  your  horse's  hoofs  in  nice  shape,  thus  preventing 

accidents.    Prices,  pt,  50c;  qt.,  75c;  %  gal.,  $1.25;  1  gal.,  $2.00. 
Conkey's  Absorbent — Takes  place  of   blistering   and   firing.    Cures   lameness. 

Removes  blemishes.    Price  $1.00. 
Conkey's  Bag  Ointment — A  penetrating,   softening   application   which   soothes 

quickly.    A  remedy  for  many  bag  troubles.    Prices  25c  and  50c. 
Conkey's  Fly  Knocker — Sprayed  on  cows,  horses,  etc.,  keeps  flies  and  other 

pests  away.    Kills  every  fly  it  hits.    Doesn't  taint  the  milk  or  injure  the 

animal  in  any  way.    Prices,  qt.,  35c;  2  qts.,  60c;  1  gal.,  $1.00;  5  gal., 

$4.00.    For  Canada  and  Western  prices  see  page  217. 
Conkey's  Nox-i-cide — Kills  germs,    prevents   disease.      A    dip,    disinfectant, 

spray  and  lice  killer.     Prices,  $1.25  gal.;  l/2  gal.,  75c;  qt.,  50c.     For 

Canada  and  Western  prices  see  page  219. 
Conkey's  Poultry  Remedies— See  list,  page  220. 
Conkey's  Dog  Remedies— See  list,  page  222. 
Conkey's  Special  Remedies— See  list,  page  223. 

"Salt-Em"— See  page  223. 

REMEMBER!     Every  Conkey  Remedy  MUST  SATISFY  YOU 
or  MONEY  BACK. 

The  G.  E.  Conkey  Company 

CLEVELAND    :    U.  S.  A. 


Conkey's  Stock  Tonic 

Formerly  called  Conkey's  Stock  Vigor 

First  and  most  important  of  all  Conkey  prepara- 
tions for  internal  treatment  is  this  one  best  general 
conditioner  for  livestock,  Conkey's  Stock  Tonic. 

This  is  not  a  food  but  a  medicine.  It  does  not  even 
contain  any  filler,  but  is  all  medicine.  You  mix  it  in 
spoonfuls  or  less  with  your  regular  feed  from  your  own 
feed  bins.  This  makes  your  own  stock  food,  at  home 
prices.  All  you  pay  for  in  the  package  is  medicine,  all 
specific  tonic  for  HORSE,  DAIRY  or  BEEF  cattle, 
SHEEP  and  HOGS.  This  tonic  will  condition  your 
stock,  make  them  healthy  and  vigorous  and  enable  them 
to  do  more  for  you.  It  is  tonic,  alterative  treatment, 
improves  the  appetite,  insures  full  digestion,  keeps  the 
system  open;  keeps  the  animals  worm-free. 

There  are  two  uses  for  Conkey's  Stock  Tonic: 
When  any  animal  is  run  down,  off  feed,  listless,  do- 
less,  not  thriving  in  spite  of  feed  and  care,  debilitated  from  some  disease, 
then  use  Conkey's  Stock  Tonic,  in  small  doses  according  to  directions  to 
bring  the  animal  back  to  health.  Or,  for  all  stock  under  strain  of  special 
production,  such  as  DAIRY  COWS  that  are  heavy  feeders  and  milkers; 
"FEEDERS,"  whether  CATTLE,  SHEEP  or  SWINE,  that  are  being  fat- 
tened and  finished  off  for  the  butcher,  all  brood  mares,  freshening  cows, 
ewes,  sows;  all  stud  animals  under  heavy  service;  in  fact  for  ALL  LIVE- 
STOCK, use  Conkey's  Stock  Tonic  to  ease  the  strain  of  heavy  production 
and  keep  the  animals  fine  and  fit. 

The  whole  point  is  this:  Livestock  to  be  profitable  MUST  be  kept  under 
unnatural  conditions.  They  MUST  be  given  expensive  feed,  expensive  care, 
and  in  general  they  MUST  be  under-exercised  and  rather  over-fed  in  order 
to  push  them  to  the  limit  of  healthful  production  and  show  good  profit. 
Every  animal,  to  be  profitable,  must  show  in  the  SHORTEST  POSSIBLE 
TIME  the  MOST  POSSIBLE  MARKETABLE  PRODUCT. 

Now:  The  more  feed  you  get  into  your  cattle  and  swine,  without 
upsetting  their  appetites,  the  MORE  MONEY  you  get  out  of  them.  Now, 
again:  No  use  to  feed  unless  the  stock  can  do  their  part  and  turn  each 
pound  (over  and  above  what  is  called  a  maintenance  ration)  into  some 
product  that  will  mean  YOUR  PROFIT.  Nature  would  keep  digestion  per- 
fect so  long  as  you  feed  moderately  well  and  exercise  a  plenty — but  Na- 
ture's way  won't  make  money  for  you.  It  is  what  you  feed  over  and  above 
"natural  appetite"  that  MAKES  MONEY  for  you.  Your  problem  is  this: 
How  to  feed  for  profit  and  yet  not  upset  natural  functions  and  run  the 
risk  of  loss  from  disease. 

Remember  that  PROFIT  in  livestock  means  a  short  life  but  a  PRO- 
DUCTIVE one.  Keep  in  mind  the  fact  that  in  Holland,  the  home  of  the 
Holsteins,  these  cows  are  not  allowed  to  live  beyond  eight  vigorous,  produc- 
tive years.  Scientific  managers  crowd  each  animal  along,  push  to  the  limit, 
feed  amazingly  but  milk  accordingly  and  after  this  short  term  of  years  finish 
each  record-breaker  off  for  the  butcher  and  spend  their  valuable  time  on 
younger  stock.  This  is  simply  business  management  applied  to  livestock. 

The  difference  between  profit  and  loss  is  mostly  a  matter  of  feeding. 
The  less  an  animal  eats  the  less  it  can  earn  for  you.  The  more  it  eats  the 
more  surplus  it  can  turn  into  profit — provided  it  digests  all  it  eats  and  gets 
the  full  value  out  of  the  feed.  When  you  feed  heavily  for  heavy  production 
you  simply  must  give  your  animals  help  of  some  sort,  or  you  are  sure  to 
have  a  heap  of  trouble  with  indigestion.  We  have  explained  how  a  large 


208 Stock  Tonic  Means  Bigger,  Quicker  Profits 

class  of  dangerous  diseases  can  be  absolutely  prevented  simply  by  killing 
the  germs  which  cause  them.  There  is  another  large  class  of  diseases 
which  come,  one  and  all,  from  imperfect  digestion.  Let  an  animal  be 
overtaxed  in  its  digestive  system,  let  the  vital  organs  be  weakened,  let 
the  system  be  clogged  by  poisons  and  .waste  which  poor  blood  cannot 
flush  out  of  the  body,  and  any  one  of  a  dozen  serious  diseases  is  liable 
to  result.  These  diseases  differ  greatly  in  their  outward  symptoms,  some- 
times the  effect  is  shown  in  one  part  sometimes  in  another.  The  digestive 
system  is  the  basis  of  health  in  the  animal's  body.  The  clogged  system 
becomes  a  hotbed  for  dangerous  germs,  with  heat  and  moisture  making 
just  the  right  conditions  for  rapid,  often  fatal  development. 

Such  diseases  as  Abortion,  Barenness,  failing  to  clean  (Retained  After- 
birth), Milk-Fever,  etc.,  etc.,  so  common  in  dairy  herds,  can  be  practically 
prevented  by  the  use  of  Conkey's  Stock  Tonic. 

Keep  the  digestion  perfect,  keep  the  system  open  if  you  would  avoid 
disease.  Conkey's  Stock  Tonic  insures  full  digestion,  keeps  every  organ 
vigorous,  keeps  the  blood  clean.  It  helps  the  appetite,  makes  a  poor  ration 
more  palatable,  puts  every  bit  of  nutritive  matter  in  form  for  the  body  to 
use  it,  makes  the  least  possible  waste.  It  also  expells  worms,  which  in  the 
treatment  of  livestock  is  very  important  since  worms  alone  cause  many 
digestive  troubles.  Blood  sucking  worms  do  absolutely  no  good  in  your 
animal's  body,  but  sap  its  strength  and  vitality,  waste  expensive  feed  for 
you,  in  time  make  any  animal  fail  to  thrive. 

So  we  say  to  you  that  you  need  Conkey's  Stock  Tonic.  You  need  this 
conditioner  for  your  horses,  for  your  dairy  cows,  for  your  feeding  cattle  and 
for  your  sheep  and  hogs.  You  need  Conkey's  Stock  Tonic  to  make  your 
livestock  pay. 

Get  it,  make  a  test  of  it.  No  risk  about  it.  Ever  Conkey  package 
under  satisfaction  guarantee.  Your  money  back  if  you  are  not  absolutely 
satisfied  with  results. 

Prices— 1  lb.,  25c;  2#  Ibs.,  5Oc;  5  Ibs.,  $1.OO;  12  Ib.  pail,  $2.OO; 
25  lb.  pail,  $3.5O. 


Home-Made  Stock  Salt 

All  animals  need  salt.  The  best  plan  is  to  have  salt  where  the  farm 
animals  can  help  themselves  anytime.  Then  they  will  take  just  what  they 
need,  each  animal  being  guided  by  instinct.  But  •when  salt  is  given  only 
occasionally  they  are  pretty  sure  to  take  more  than  is  good  for  them,  if  they 
can  get  it;  and  scours,  etc.,  will  result.  The  following  is  a  home-made 
medicinal  Stock  Salt  that  for  beneficial  results  cannot  be  beaten  by  any 
formula,  and  for  cheapness  would  put  the  commonly  advertised  stock  salts 
far  in  the  shade,  costing  less  than  2  U'c  per  pound. 

Take  common  barrel  salt  which  costs  less  than  one-half  cent  per  pound. 
Mix  with  one  part  Conkey's  Stock  Tonic  to  nine  parts  salt.  For  instance,  9O 
pounds  salt,  with  1O  pounds  Conkey's  Stock  Tonic  (2  packages  at  $1.OO). 
Mix  thoroughly,  keep  dry,  and  place  where  all  animals  can  help  themselves. 
This  salt  mixture  will  keep  livestock  free  from  worms,  help  digestion  and 
appetite.  It  will  increase  the  thriving,  vigorous  condition  of  all  animals, 
whether  horses,  cattle,  sheep  or  swine.  Let  each  animal  help  itself,  then  each 
will  get  enough  and  none  of  them  will  overeat.  Sheep  and  swine  will  take 
less  than  horses  or  cattle.  Swine  will  take  least  of  all  but  swine  should  have 
salt  where  they  can  get  at  it.  Salt  for  swine  should  never  be  mixed  in  their 
slop  for  there  is  danger  of  poisoning  them  if  they  should  get  too  much. 


Rough  Coat,  Poor  Digestion,  Scouring:  Use  Conkey's  Worm  Remedy 


209 


Conkey's  Worm  Remedy 

This  is  our  specific  remedy  for  worms.  All  domestic 
animals  are  natural  "hosts"  for  worms*  An  animal  may 
keep  alive  and  fairly  comfortable  and  still  be  internally 
a  mass  of  writhing,  bloodsucking  parasites.  But  no  animal 
can  be  really  profitable  to  the  owner  if  it  is  burdened 
with  worms.  The  feed  fed  is  fed  to  the  worms.  They 
attach  themselves  to  the  walls  of  stomach  and  intestine 
and  absorb  the  nutriment  before  the  animal  has  a  chance 
to  get  it.  The  animal  fails  to  thrive  and  has  a  rough, 
staring  coat,  in  spite  of  a  ravenous  appetite.  Often  the 
mature  worms  are  expelled  in  the  dung,  or  dead  fragments 
are  found  in  the  droppings.  The  animal  shows  a  depraved 
appetite,  as  well  as  being  always  hungry,  and  will  east 
rotting  board,  mortar,  filth  or  other  unfit  substances. 
Sometimes  violent  pains  are  caused  by  the  presence  of  worms,  as  in  colic 
of  horses. 

It  is  easy  to  keep  your  stock  worm  free  by  the  right  Stock  Tonic 
treatment  all  the  time.  But  if  this  matter  has  been  neglected  for  some 
time  and  the  animals  are  found  to  be  already  infested,  there  is  only  one 
thing  to  do, — treat  promptly  and  actively  with  a  powerful  worm  killer  and 
expeller — i.  e.  Conkey's  Worm  Remedy.  This  remedy  expells  all  kinds  of 
worms,  and  not  merely  the  "harmless"  ones.  Strictly  speaking  no  worm 
is  "harmless"  for  they  are  profit  sappers  every  one,  although  many  are 
much  less  serious  than  the  dangerous,  ulcerating  kind.  Look  out  for  worms 
and  take  measures  to  rid  your  stock  of  such  parasites  promptly.  Conkey's 
Worm  Remedy  is  an  absolutely  reliable,  guaranteed  treatment.  Satisfy 
yourself  at  our  risk.  Get  a  package  today  if  any  of  your  animals  show 
signs  of  worms.  You  will  be  fully  repaid  for  the  purchase.  Besides,  every 
Conkey  package  sells  on  agreement  of  money  back  if  for  any  reason  you 
are  not  fully  satisfied. 

Price — 50c,  postpaid. 

Conkey's  Horse  Tonic 

Here  is  an  exceedingly  valuable  tonic,  a  vegetable  com- 
pound— one  bottle  is  as  good  as  six  weeks  on  grass. 

For  high  bred  animals  convalescing  from  debilitating 
diseases,  for  mares  after  foaling,  no  medicine  equals  Conkey's 
Horse  Tonic.  It  corrects  digestion,  increases  the  appetite, 
helps  the  action  of  the  natural  acids  and  alkalies  in  the  ail- 
mentary  canal,  helps  every  organ  to  do  its  work.  It  has  a 
special  effect  on  the  nervous  system  and  is  just  the  stimulat- 
ing tonic  necessary  in  any  depressed  condition  or  in  case 
of  exhaustion  from  any  cause.  An  excellent  treatment  for 
race  horses,  for  stud  animals  and  brood  mares. 

Sold  on  the  well  known  Conkey  agreement,  your  money 
bick  if  you  are  not  absolutely  satisfied  with  results. 

Price— $1.OO.    In  West  and  Canada,  $1.5O. 


210 


Don't  Neglect  a  Horse  with  Heaves 


Conkey's  Heave  Remedy 

Any  treatment  which  corrects  digestion  and  strength- 
ens the  nerves,  will  cure  any  mild  or  recent  case  of 
heaves,  provided  the  horse  is  always  properly  watered  and 
fed.  Many  cases  of  heaves  are  easily  and  quickly  cured 
simply  with  Conkey's  Stock  Tonic  treatment  for  indiges- 
tion. 

But,  the  real  test  of  a  Heave  Remedy  is  a  bad  case  of 
chronic  heaves! 

Some  horses  inherit  a  disposition  to  heaves,  asthma 
and  broken  wind,  on  account  of  narrow  chests.  But  most 
cases  are  due  to  eating  clover  hay  or  other  irritating  fod- 
der, such  as  mouldy  or  dusty  hay,  or  to  working  too  soon 
on  a  full  stomach,  which  crowds  the  breathing  organs  so  as 
to  rupture  the  small  cells  in  the  lungs,  and  as  a  result 
the  horse  cannot  expell  the  air  naturally  but  must  "heave" 
in  the  effort  to  do  so.  The  mistake  is  wrong  feeding  in 
the  first  place,  so  that  digestion  is  upset  and  the  whole  digestive  system 
weakened.  The  horse  shows  a  harsh,  staring  coat,  and  the  whole  appear- 
ance is  dejected.  The  nervous  system  is  likewise  affected. 

Conkey's  Heave  Remedy  will  cure  every  symptom  of  Heaves  and  Broken 
Wind,  even  in  the  worst  cases,  provided  the  directions  are  followed  care- 
fully. The  medicine  should  be  given  regularly  as  directed,  and  a  few  simple 
rules  for  feeding  followed  out  absolutely.  For  unless  the  cause  of  the 
disease  is  remedied,  plainly  the  same  symptoms  will  be  repeated.  A  pur- 
gative should  be  given  occasionally  and  the  system  kept  open.  Or,  a  better 
way  is  to  give  the  horse  occasional  treatment  with  Conkey's  Stock  Tonic. 

All  horses  with  any  tendency  to  heaves  should  be  put  on  Stock  Tonic 
treatment,  to  correct  digestion  and  tone  the  vital  organs. 

Conkey's  Heave  Remedy  acts  directly  on  the  weakened  digestive  organs, 
tones  them  up  and  strengthens  them  to  do  their  work.  It  improves  the 
coat  and  the  horse  soon  shows  general  improved  condition,  with  no  sign 
of  heaves. 

Price— $1.OO. 

Conkey's  Colic  Remedy  for  Horses 

Colic  in  horses  is  a  source  of  much  loss.  Colic  comes 
suddenly.  Relief  must  be  quick.  The  horse  will  die  if 
the  medicine  takes  too  long  to  act  or  if  the  right  remedy 
is  not  at  hand  and  you  must  send  away  for  it.  It  is  no 
wonder  that  more  horses  die  from  colic  than  from  any 
other  cause. 

Conkey's  Colic  Remedy  for  Horses  is  lightning  relief 
from  this  sudden  and  dangerous  ailment.  It  will  cure  an 
ordinary  case  in  a  few  moments.  Not  only  the  medicine 
itself  is  right,  and  quick  in  its  action,  but  the  manner  of 
giving  it  is  an  enormous  advantage.  Most  colic  treatments 
call  for  a  drench.  A  drench  is  dangerous  to  give  a  horse 
that  is  frantic  with  pain,  often  it  is  impossible  to  drench 
a  horse,  for  instance  when  out  on  the  road  and  the 
attack  comes  on.  Conkey's  Colic  Remedy  is  easy  and 

convenient  to  give — a  few  drops    on  the  back  of  the  tongue    of  the  suffering 

animal  and  relief  comes  immediately. 


More  Horses  Die  from  Colic  than  from  Any  Other  Cause 211 

Every  owner  or  user  of  horses  should  know  about  this  Conkey  Remedy 
for  Colic  and  should  have  it  on  hand  for  emergency  use.  It  may  save  the 
life  of  a  valuable  animal.  If  colic  is  treated  instantly  with  Conkey's  Colic 
Remedy  as  directed,  there  is  practically  no  danger,  but  if  the  attack  is 
neglected  or  this  Remedy  not  at  hand  to  give  immediately,  the  delay 
very  often  proves  fatal. 

Some  horses  are  especially  liable  to  colic  attacks,  but  often  the  trouble 
is  due  to  wrong  methods  of  watering  or  feeding,  or  to  worms  in  the 
intestines.  Gas  colic  is  the  common  form  of  the  disease,  but  spasmodic 
colic,  or  gripes,  is,  frequent  also,  as  the  result  of  overfeeding  or  watering 
a  horse  when  warm.  Sometimes  inflammation  of  the  bowels  is  mistaken 
for  colic.  The  general  symptoms  are  very  like  gas  or  flatulent  colic  but 
such  a  mistake  is  serious,  for  in  inflammation  of  the  bowels  (enteritis) 
the  treatment  should  be  exactly  opposite  to  colic.  You  will  never  make 
this  mistake,  however,  if  you  note  this  difference,  that  colic  comes  sud- 
denly; but  enteritis  is  gradual  and  the  severe  pain  is  constant. 

If  you  are  a  horse  owner  you  need  Conkey's  Colic  Remedy.  You  run 
a  serious  risk  in  not  having  it  on  hand  -for  emergency.  Remember  it  is 
easy  and  convenient  to  give,  not  a  drench,  and  that  it  brings  relief  quickly. 
Get  it,  and  have  it  on  hand. 

Prices— 5Oc  and  $1.OO. 

Conkey's  Distemper  and  Cough 
Remedy 

Here  is  another  remedy  that  should  be  on  hand  for  emergency  use, 
especially  in  fall  and  winter  when  weather  is  unsettled.  Horses  are  liable 
to  chill  at  such  times,  since  they  are  shedding.  The  atmospheric  conditions 
favor  such  disorders,  as  influenza,  epizootic,  strangles  or  distemper  and  pink- 
eye (cellulitis).  Watch  for  the  first  signs  of  cough,  cold  or  fever.  There  is 
little  danger  in  these  attacks  except  when  the  symptoms  are  neglected,  so 
that  complications  result,  or  the  condition  lingers  and  becomes  chronic. 

There  is  no  excuse  for  neglect.  Conkey's  Distemper  and  Cough  Remedy 
is  given  in  small  doses  and  is  easy  and  convenient  treatment.  It  is  not  a 
drench  or  a  ball,  hence  there  is  no  danger  in  giving  the  Conkey  treatment 
even  when  the  horse's  throat  is  inflamed  or  otherwise  in  irritated  condition. 

For  so-called  "shipping  fever"  Conkey's  Distemper  and  Cough  Remedy 
is  the  best  treatment  known.  Guaranteed  also  for  all  cases  of  cough,  cold, 
chills  and  fever,  influenza,  epizootic,  strangles  (distemper),  pinkeye  (cellu- 
litis), and  for  pneumonia  and  bronchitis.  Directions  for  general  care  and 
feeding  are  included  with  this  treatment;  for  in  all  diseases  of  above  nature 
good  nursing  is  an  important  matter. 

The  important  thing  is  actually  to  have  Conkey's  Distemper  and  Cough 
Remedy  on  hand  for  use  when  wanted.  Meet  any  symptom  of  cough,  cold, 
chills,  etc.,  with  the  treatment  promptly.  Every  package  sold  under 
regular  guarantee.  Money  refunded  on  your  plain  request  to  do  so, 
if  in  any  case  you  are  not  satisfied  with  results. 

This  is  our  general  all  around  guarantee.  You  take  no  risk  on  any 
Conkey  package. 

Price— $1.OO,  postpaid. 


212 Don't  Use  Cruel  Treatments  when  Gentle  Measures  Do  the  Work 

Conkey's  Fistula  and  Poll  Evil 
Remedy 

For  Poll  Evil,  Fistulous  Withers,  or  malignant  or  stubborn  abscesses 
and  sores  on  any  part  of  the  body.  The  poll,  or  top  of  the  head,  and  the 
withers,  on  account  of  their  prominence,  are  especially  liable  to  injury, 
from  accidental  blows  or  pressure  of  any  sort.  A  bruise  at  either  of  these 
points  is  apt  to  develop  an  abscess  or  tube-like  wound.  These  tubes  or 
pipes  tend  to  deepen  and  burrow.  The  pus  cavity  cannot  find  natural  drain- 
age and  the  decomposing  and  diseased  matter  collects,  the  cavity  mean- 
while sinking  deeper  and  deeper.  The  longer  neglected  the  deeper  the  fis- 
tula works,  getting  down  into  the  tissue  and  even  affecting  the  bone.  The 
danger  is  increased  the  deeper  the  fistula  goes.  Usually  the  swelling  at  the 
top  breaks  and  discharges  foul  matter. 

Make  no  mistake  in  treating  a  case  of  abscess,  fistula  or  poll  evil. 
Get  Conkey's  Fistula  and  Poll  Evil  Remedy,  the  humane  yet  thoroughly 
scientific  treatment.  Follow  directions  tor  the  combination,  alternating 
treatment,  and  you  will  be  sure  the  wound  heals  safely  and  scientifically 
from  the  inside  out,  with  no  cruelty  to  the  animal. 

Conkey's  Fistula  and  Poll  Evil  Remedy  is  sold  under  the  usual  Conkey 
guarantee.  This  remedy  must  absolutely  satisfy  you  with  results  or  you 
get  your  money  back. 

Price— $2.OO,  or  $2.25  prepaid. 

Conkey's  Eye  Remedy 

Weak  eyes  should  always  be  treated  with  Conkey's  Eye  Remedy.  If 
neglected  serious  trouble,  or  even  blindness,  may  result.  Look  out  for  such 
symptoms  as  watering  eyes,  swelling  of  the  lids,  changing  color,  and  diffi- 
culty in  seeing.  Conkey's  Eye  Remedy  is  a  soothing,  cooling  application, 
very  grateful  to  the  animal  when  the  eyes  are  inflamed. 

Badly  lighted  and  badly  ventilated  stables  tend  to  cause  eye  weakness. 
The  stable  should  be  well  lighted,  but  the  light  should  never  come  direct 
in  the  animal's  face.  Overhead  feed  racks  are  another  cause  of  trouble, 
on  account  of  dust  and  chaff.  Fumes  from  piles  of  filth  will  injure  the  eyes. 

Conkey's  Eye  Remedy  is  easy,  simple,  effective  treatment  for  any  eye 
trouble  that  can  be  cured  short  of  a  surgical  operation.  Used  with  a 
camels  hair  brush,  with  a  medicine  dropper,  or  simply  swabbed  on  with 
a  piece  of  sterile  cotton.  It  should  always  be  on  hand  on  the  Remedy 
Shelf,  ready  for  emergency.  Sold  on  agreement,  your  money  back  if  it 
does  not  positively  satisfy. 

Price— 5Oc. 

Conkey's  Gall  Salve 

A  salve  is  handy  to  use.  This  preparation  is  highly  antiseptic  and  is 
effective  treatment  for  galls,  chafes,  sores,  cuts,  scratches,  etc.  A  pleasant 
cooling  application  for  any  irritated  surface.  An  all-around,  good,  healing 
salve,  useful  for  many  purposes.  No  danger  of  mercurial  poisoning  from 
the  use  of  this  excellent  and  safe  ointment. 

Prices— 25c  and  5Oc. 


fl.  Dry  Dressing,  Easy  to  Apply,  Prevents  Chafing 213 

Conkey's  Healing  Powder 

Here  is  another  necessity  for  the  Stockman's  Remedy 
Shelf.  Probably  no  article  has  more  general  usefulness 
than  this  wonderful  Healing  Powder.  It  heals  rapidly  and 
completely  galls,  cuts,  wounds,  chafes,  sore  back,  indolent 
and  malignant  ulcers,  scratches,  thrush  and  sore  and  tender 
mouths.  It  is  an  astringent,  an  antiseptic,  a  germicide, 
all  in  one.  Any  sore  or  chafed  spot  is  an  invitation  to 
trouble.  You  know  this,  so  never  neglect  a  cut  or  wound 
or  any  sore  place,  but  dust  immediately  with  Conkey's 
Healing  Powder  and  get  it  healed  quickly,  before  any 
germs  enter  in  or  flies  are  attracted  and  a  festering,  or 
wormy  sore  results.  Simply  dust  on  Conkey's  Healing 
Powder  from  the  sifter-top  can.  This  makes  a  dry  dress- 
ing, easy  to  apply,  and  protects  any  exposed  surface  from 
further  irritation  or  rubbing.  The  dry  powder  absorbs 
perspiration,  kills  any  germs  and  prevents  infection,  as 
well  as  makes  a  smooth,  chafe-proof  surface  under  the  harness. 

It  is  just  as  necessary  to  dust  your  horse  with  Conkey's  Healing 
Powder  as  to  oil  your  mower;  and  for  the  same  reason — to  make  "easy 
running,"  prevent  undue  friction  and  unnecessary  wear  of  parts.  Your 
horse  is  a  flesh  and  blood  machine.  Horse-power  depends  in  large  part 
on  the  horse's  comfort  when  he  settles  into  the  collar.  If  the  collar  is 
poorly  fitting  you  get  less  horsepower,  as  well  as  galls,  chafes  and  sore 
shoulders.  Keep  the  collar  free  from  hardened  ridges  of  dirt  and  sweat. 
Wherever  there  is  any  danger  from  rubbing  or  chafing,  dust  on  Conkey's 
Healing  Powder.  Keep  your  faithful  animal  chafe-free. 

Conkey's  Healing  Powder  is  very  quick  in  results.  Cures  bad  cuts 
and  wounds  in  remarkably  short  time,  so  that  you  do  not  lose  the  service 
of  your  animal.  It  is  the  most  scientific  preparation  for  use  after  surgical 
operations,  such  as  castrating  and  dehorning.  Needed  in  many  emergencies 
as  well  as  for  dozens  of  common  uses.  Keep  Conkey's  Healing  Powder 
on  hand.  Let  it  have  a  regular  place  on  your  Remedy  Shelf. 

Prices— 25c,  also  5Oc,  postpaid. 

Conkey's  Warming  Liniment 

A  first-rate  liniment  certainly  is  a  necessity  to  every  farmer  and  stock- 
man. There  are  dozens  of  common  uses  and  many  emergencies  where 
a  stimulating,  penetrating  liniment  is  wanted  and  wanted  immediately. 

Every  pharmacist  knows  there  are  problems  in  compounding,  render- 
ing and  combining.  It  is  not  enough  to  simply  mix  things  up.  We  have 
spared  no  effort  in  perfecting  Conkey's  Warming  Liniment  and  today  feel 
doubtful  if  any  alteration  could  be  made  in  its  present  manufacture  that 
would  improve  its  usefulness  in  any  degree. 

Removes  soreness,  lameness,  swelling,  stiffness.  Strengthens  muscles; 
excellent  for  sweeny  or  partial  paralysis,  rheumatism,  strains,  sprains. 
Increases  circulation  in  a  part,  relieves  congestion  or  inflammation.  Excel- 
lent for  treatment  of  sore  throat  or  lungs  or  cold  in  chest.  A  warming 
application  for  any  part.  Penetrating,  stimulating,  eases  pain. 

Equally  safe  and  reliable  for  human  use.     Contains  no  poison. 

Price— 5Oc. 


214 


First  Aid  in  Many  Injuries — Conkey's  Pain  Lotion 


Conkey's  Pain  Lotion 

Here  is  another  emergency  article  that  should  be  on  your 
Remedy  Shelf.  For  sudden  sprain  or  lameness;  for  inflam- 
mation of  any  part,  in  a41  accidents,  for  soreness,  pain,  cuts, 
wounds,  dress  the  part  immediately  with  Conkey's  Pain  Lo- 
tion, and  the  patient  will  feel  grateful. 

Note  that  this  preparation  is  not  a  liniment,  not  an  irri- 
tant. Its  action  is  soothing,  not  stimulating.  It  is  cooling, 
quieting,  healing.  It  reduces  pain,  takes  out  inflammation, 
soothes,  heals.  In  addition  to  all  this  it  is  highly  antiseptic, 
making  a  perfect  and  all-sufficient  dressing  for  any  painful 
part.  It  also  has  special  mentholic  properties.  That  is  why 
Conkey's  Pain  Lotion  is  just  the  treatment  for  inflammation 
or  soreness  of  the  throat  or  mouth.  Used  as  an  inhalant  it 
instantly  clears  the  head  passages.  Apply  with  a  spray  or 
atomizer,  or  simply  swab  the  Pain  Lotion  directly  on  the  part. 

Conkey's    Pain    Lotion    is    an    excellent    bag    ointment    for    cows.      It 
soothes   the   inflammation,   reduces   congestion,  heals    sores   and   eruptions. 
Price— 5Oc 

Conkey's  Hoof  Remedy 

A  good  hoof  means  a  good  horse.  Under  natural  conditions,  contact 
with  soft,  moist  earth  keeps  the  hoof  substance  in  elastic  condition  just  as 
Nature  intended. 

But  when  we  start  to  work  the  horse  on  city  paving,  or  hard  dry 
roads  or  let  him  stand  in  the  stable  a  day  or  two,  the  hoof  dries  out.  In 
this  hard  dry  condition  it  is  easily  cracked  or  split.  The  horse  cannot  do 
his  work  unless  his  feet  keep  elastic  and  pliable  as  nature  made  them.  This 
elasticity  is  very  necessary  to  lessen  the  jar  of  the  footfall.  Hard,  dry  feet 
cause  many  foot  troubles,  such  as  split  hoof,  quarter-crack,  seedy  toe  and 
consequent  loss  of  usefulness  to  the  owner  as  well  as  needless  pain  to  the 
horse. 

You  can  keep  the  hoofs  in  good  shape,  no  matter 
what  the  condition  of  the  road  by  daily  use  of  this  Hoof 
Remedy.  Don't  make  the  mistake  of  smearing  axle 
grease  or  linseed  oil  on  the  hoof.  Grease  drives  out 
moisture.  Conkey's  Hoof  Remedy  has  a  lanolin  (wool- 
fat)  base,  which  penetrates  the  horn  substance,  but  does 
not  clog  the  tissues,  as  would  grease  or  ointment.  Used 
with  a  brush  or  rag.  Takes  but  a  moment.  Keeps  the 
hoof  moist.  Makes  the  feet  healthy  and  elastic.  Pre- 
vents Contracted  Feet  and  saves  the  expense  of  bar 
shoes,  and  pads  under  shoes.  Prevents  Split  Hoof,  Bog- 
Spavin,  Quarter  Crack  and  Seedy  Toe.  Saves  all  that 
cost  for  fancy  shoeing  because  it  keeps  the  feet  in  good 
condition  and  counteracts  the  effect  of  road  and  weather.  Mixed  with  bran, 
it  makes  an  excellent  hoof  packing,  or  can  be  used  for  an  antiseptic  poultice 
for  any  part.  It  will  cure  a  bad  case  of  thrush  and  put  the  feet  in  nice  shape. 
Should  be  used  regularly  in  every  stable.  It  prolongs  the  usefulness  and 
increases  the  value  of  your  horse. 

Prices— 1  pint,  5Oc;  1  quart,  75c;  2  quarts,  $1.25;  1  gallon,  $2.OO. 
Write  for  prices  on  larger  quantities. 


Conkey's  Absorbent  Does  Not  Blister  or  Leave  a  Scar 


215 


Conkey's  Absorbent 

This  is  the  great  remedy  for  lameness  from  Spavin,  Ringbone,  or  other 
bony  deposit.  Also  for  Curb,  Splint,  Capped  Hock,  Swollen  Joints,  swollen 
tissue,  filled  tendons,  synovitis,  bursitis,  or  any  inflammatory  thickenings 
near  joints. 

These  serious  troubles  are  caused  by  strain  or  accident  and  strains  or 
accidents  are  usually  due  to  some  fault  of  action.  Faulty  action  nine 
times  in  ten,  comes  from  neglect  of  the  hoof,  as  a  result  of  which  the  whole 
body  is  thrown  out  of  joint.  Elsewhere  we  have  explained  the  value  of 
regular  dressing  of  the  hoofs  with  Conkey's  Hoof  Remedy.  It  is  clear 
that  if  this  simple  treatment  is  adopted  as  a  regular  habit  in  the  stable, 
you  save  the  risk  of  serious  injuries  to  your  horse's  legs.  Most  of  the 
injuries  of  the  class  above  described  are  exceedingly  painful  to  the  horse 
and  interfere  with  his  usefulness.  Spavins  of  various  kinds,  whether  painful 
or  painless,  constitute  unsoundness.  Ringbone,  splint,  sidebone  (which  is 
practically  a  restricted  ringbone)  all  lessen  a  horse's  usefulness  and  may 
utterly  ruin  his  value.  The  longer  these  conditions  are  neglected  the  worse 
they  become;  and  all  the  time  the  horse  is  more  liable  to  other  strains  and 
accidents.  In  fact,  these  serious  troubles  usually  have  very  slight  begin- 
nings. Often  if  the  first  strain  or  swelling  or  slight  lameness  is  promptly 
treated,  and  the  fault  of  the  hoof  corrected  so  as  to  restore  proper  action, 
the  trouble  is  cured  quickly  and  permanently.  For  just  such  attention  Con- 
key's  Pain  Lotion  should  be  on  hand,  A  little  of  it  promptly  used  saves 
dollars  of  future  treatment. 

For  any  persistent  lameness,  or  any  swelling,  thickening, 
or  bone  enlargement  treat  at  once  with  Conkey's  Absorbent. 
Conkey's  Absorbent  will  not  in  every  case  entirely  re- 
move the  bony  enlargement.  It  will  reduce  the  enlargement, 
and  in  all  but  very  old  and  obstinate  cases  it  will  actually 
remove  the  growth,  by  absorption  and  dispersion.  But  you 
can  take  the  package  on  this  guarantee.  No  matter  how  old 
or  how  bad  the  case,  or  how  long  neglected,  if  Conkey's 
Absorbent  treatment  according  to  directions  does  not  remedy 
the  trouble  to  your  entire  satisfaction  you  can  get  your 
money  back  in  full,  from  the  dealer  or  direct  from  The 
Conkey  Company. 

Conkey's  Absorbent  is,  easy  to  apply.  More  important 
than  this,  it  is  easy  treatment  on  the  animal.  It  does  not 
blister,  or  leave  any  tell-tale  blemish.  Its  action  is  the  mild- 
est known  for  growths  and  lameness  from  Spavin,  Curb, 
Splint,  Ringbone,  Sidebone,  etc.  Why  subject  your  horse  to  cruel  firing 
and  blistering  when  Conkey's  Absorbent  treatment  remedies  the  trouble 
without  pain  or  ugly  scars? 

Conkey's  Absorbent  is  also  useful  to  have  on  hand  for  removing  puffs 
and  bunches,  leaving  the  part  smooth  and  perfect  to  the  touch  and  sight. 
Get  Conkey's  Absorbent  and  it  will  improve  the  appearance  of  your  stock, 
which  will  increase  their  market  value. 

Have  it  always  on  hand  for  emergency  and  treat  every  lameness, 
bunch  or  enlargement  soon  as  it  appears.  Don't  try  to  get  along  without 
Conkey's  Absorbent.  Don't  try  tp  save  the  price  of  the  package,  and  risk 
the  value  of  your  horse. 

Price— $1.0O. 


216 A  Good  Cow  Must  Have  a  Good  Udder 

Conkey's  Bag  Ointment 

A  remarkably  efficient  bag  ointment,  which  soothes  and  softens.  Cool- 
ing, penetrating.  Excellent  for  treating  any  sore  or  inflamed  condition, 
such  as  Garget  or  Caked  Udder,  Bunches  in  Bag,  Sore,  Cracked  or  Injured 
Teats.  Conkey's  Bag  Ointment  allays  inflammation,  reduces  congestion, 
heals  sores  and  eruptions.  It  is  also  a  perfect  antiseptic  dressing  for  any 
part. 

Prices— 25c  and  50c. 


Useful  Cattle  Instruments* 

Teat  Dilator — In  case  of  leaky  teat  use  dilator  till  the  wound  or  leak  can 
be  cured.  Price,  $1.00  postpaid. 

Bistoury — For  slitting  teats  of  a  hard  milker,  to  enlarge  the  canal.  Price, 
$1.50  postpaid. 

Teat  Expander — Made  of  metal,  nickle-plated;  to  be  used  with  or  without 
the  bistoury.  Price,  50c. 

Milking  Tubes — For  sore  and  obstructed  teats,  or  for  hard  milking  cows, 
these  tubes  are  a  real  necessity.  Made  in  three  sizes,  and  any  size 
can  be  had  either  plated  or  in  solid  coin  silver,  as  follows:  2-inch 
size,  25c;  solid  silver,  40c;  3-inch  size,  30c;  solid  silver,  50c;  4-inch  size, 
35c;  solid  silver,  60c. 

Hard  Milker  Outfit — Includes  Teat  Bistoury;  Teat  Opener;  Milking  Tube; 
Teat  Expander;  1  cake  Animal  Soap.  Packed  in  handy  wooden  case. 
Price,  $3.00  postpaid. 

Trocar  and  Canula — For  treating  bloat  or  hoven.  Plunge  instrument  into 
the  body  at  heighth  of  swelling  over  the  rumen  (midway  between 
ribs  and  hip,  a  hand  breadth  from  the  backbone).  Remove  trocar 
but  leave  canula  or  tube  in  position  until  all  gas  has  escaped.  Full 
directions  with  instrument.  Price,  $1.50  postpaid. 

Milk  Fever  Outfits — With  this  outfit  on  hand  no  dairyman  need  fear  fatal 
results  from  Parturient  Apoplexy,  commonly  called  Milk  Fever. 
Price  of  outfit  complete,  with  fulLdirections,  $3.00,  prepaid. 

Fever  Thermometer — Every  stock  owner  should  have  a  good  clinical  ther- 
mometer, which  can  be  inserted  up  the  rectum  or  in  the  vulvar,  and 
held  in  place  for  two  or  three  minutes.  These  temperature  tests  are 
often  the  best  means  of  diagnosing  the  trouble.  Page  12,  we  have 
given  some  general  rules  for  understanding  temperature  readings, 
also  a  table  for  normal  temperatures.  In  addition  to  these  there  are 
other  useful  rules  with  which  the  stockman  can  easily  acquaint  himself 
and  thus  have  a  pretty  solid  basis  for  favorable  or  unfavorable  prog- 
nosis of  any  given  case.  The  thermometer  listed  here  is  considered 
the  best  on  the  market.  It  is  fully  reliable.  Price,  $2.00. 

Tuberculin  Test  Outfit — Full  directions  -included,  also  tuberculin  sufficient 
to  test  ten  cows.  Price,  complete,  $5.00.  Tuberculin  alone  (in  vial, 
sufficient  for  ten  cows)  price,  $1.50  per  vial. 

*We  do  not  make  Cattle  Instruments,  but  handle  this  reliable  line  for  convenience  of  our  patrons. 


You  Know  It  Pays! 


217 


Conkey's  Fly  Knocker 

This  is  a  specialty  for  the  fly  season.  It  is  a  neces- 
sity to  every  dairyman  as  it  keeps  flies  off  and  enables 
the  cows  to  turn  all  their  energy  into  milk  or  butterfat. 

Cows  can't  fight  flies  and  make  money  for  you. 
They  fret  off  more  than  their  feed  can  produce  in 
energy,  flesh  or  milk.  It  is  common  sense  and  busi- 
ness economy  to  spray  them  with  Conkey's  Fly 
Knocker  so  that  they  can  do  their  best.  No  use 
to  lose  out  on  your  milk  contracts  and  let  your  cows 
fall  off  in  milk  just  because  the  flies  have  arrived. 
Conkey's  Fly  Knocker  more  than  pays  for  itself  every 
time.  In  addition  to  savinig  milk,  it  saves  trouble  and 
annoyance  in  handling  the  herd,  saves  the  milker's 
time,  and  saves  torment  to  the  dumb  beasts.  Positively 
is  not  poisonous.  The  odor  will  not  taint  the  milk. 
Good  lasting  qualities  when  used  according  to  direc- 
tions. Protects  cattle  from  gad  flies,  buffalo  flies,  screw< 
worms  or  any  blow  fly.  Prevents  lice  and  grub.  Easy 
to  use  with  cloth  or  sprayer. 

Horses  should  not  be  allowed  to  fret  and  spoil  in 
spirit  because  of  tormenting  flies.  Conkey's  Fly 
Knocker  will  not  injure  the  horse's  coat  but  will  keep 
the  torturing  flies  away.  Saves  feet,  saves  flesh,  saves 
spirit.  Saves  shoes  from  being  stamped  off.  Sprayed 
on  your  horse  before  taking  him  for  a  drive,  it  pre- 
vents the  danger  from  accident  or  running  away. 
Blacksmiths  cannot  afford  to  do  without  Fly  Knocker 
because  it  saves  time  in  shoeing,  saves  trouble  and  ex- 
pense of  a  shoo-fly  boy,  and  prevents  danger  of  acci- 
dent. 

Dealers  say  "Best  fly  dope  we  ever  handled." 
Customers  say  "Nothing  else  will  do  what  Conkey's 
Fly  Knocker  does."  We  say,  let  every  man  try  it  on 
our  guarantee  money  back  if  he  wants  it.  Let  every 
dairyman,  horseman,  blacksmith,  judge  Conkey's  Fly 
Knocker  for  himself. 

Prices— lqt.,35c;  2qt.,6Oc;  lgal.,$l.OO;  5 gal., 
(jacketed)  $4.OO.  Expressage  extra.  Western  and 
Canada  prices:  qt.,  5Oc;  2  qt.,  75c;  1  gal.,  $1.25; 
5  gal.,  $5.0O.  Express  extra. 

Sprayers:  Our  own  brand,  the  Conkey  Perfect 
Sprayer.  Price,  50c. 

Best  and  most  economical  way  to  use  Fly  Knocker 
is  with  the  sprayer. 


Dairy  cows  can  be  pushed  hard  for  production  when  you  use  Conkey's 
Stock  Tonic.     See  page  2O7. 


218 


Clean,  Sanitary  Quarters 


donkey's  Nox-i-cide 


If  there  is  any  one  thing  which  absolutely 
you  must  have,  it  is  a  good  all-around  dip  and 
disinfectant. 

For  perfect  usefulness,   such   an  article 
should  be  a  combination 
Dip, 

Disinfectant, 
Spray, 
Lice  Killer. 

Most  diseases  are  preventable,  even  those 
for  which  there  is  no  cure.  The  worst  diseases 
the  stock  owner  has  to  contend  with  are  the  con- 
tagious germ  diseases,  of  which  there  are  many. 
These  diseases  break  out  suddenly,  and  rapidly 

spread  through  the  herd,  sweeping  away  the  stock-owner's  profits,  killing 
outright  or  leaving  the  animals  weakened,  sometimes  permanently  injured. 
Now  if  you  have  the  right  sort  of  dip  and  disinfectant,  it  will  kill  the  germs 
of  disease.  But  an  all  around  dip  and  disinfectant  must  do  more  than  kill 
germs.  As  explained  in  the  text  of  this  book,  page  8,  to  meet  all  practical 
purposes  a  good  disinfectant  must  be  an  antiseptic,  a  germicide,  a  parasiti- 
cide and  an  insecticide  all  in  one.  It  must  be  non-explosive,  non-corrosive, 
non-poisonous.  In  other  words,  it  must  be  safe.  It  must  also  be  easy 
and  pleasant  to  use,  or  the  average  person  will  put  off  using  it — often  too 
late. 

This  is  the  scientific  test  of  a  good  dip  and  disinfectant.  But  there  is 
a  practical  test:  It  must  be  cheap.  It  must  be  cheap  so  that  you  can  use 
it  often  and  use  a  lot.  Take  a  pencil  and  figure  out  how  cheap  Conkey's 
Nox-i-cide  is.  Every  gallon  mixes  with  water,  1  to  100  parts.  You  can 
even  afford  to  waste  a  little,  rather  than  skimp  on  using  enough.  Keeps 
everything  clean.  Keeps  the  quarters  sanitary.  Insures  your  investment 
against  loss  from  contagious  disease.  Rids  the  flock  of  parasites  of  every 
sort.  Conkey's  Nox-i-cide  is  not  a  cure-all,  but  it  wipes  out"  all  danger 
from  a  long  list  of  diseases,  simply  by  preventing  the  first  start. 

Besides  this,  a  good  many  disorders  will  cure  themselves  if  you  keep 
conditions  germ-free.  Cuts,  wounds,  scratches  can  be  quickly  healed  by 
disinfectant.  Cure  all  such  places  in  the  first  place,  and  they  will  not 
develop  into  festering  or  wormy  sores.  There  is  another  large  class  of 
disorders  for  which  Conkey's  Nox-i-cide  is  the  remedy.  Parasites  are 
the  serious  menace  to  livestock.  Parasites,  both  internal  and  external,  are 
the  one  biggest  cause  of  unprofitable  stock.  Ticks,  lice,  fleas,  mites,  grub, 
parasites  of  many  sorts  attack  the  hide  or  seek  entrance  in  body-openings, 
such  as  mouth,  nose,  vulva,  and  serious  trouble  results.  Conkey's  Nox-i-cide 
is  sure  and  positive  riddance  of  all  such  pests. 

Sheep  and  swine  are  especially  troubled  with  internal  parasites.  This 
disinfectant  is  not  only  safe  for  external  use,  but  a  little  of  it  in  the  slop 
for  hogs,  or  snuffed  up  the  nose  when  the  sheep  is  dipped,  is  very  beneficial, 
as  it  helps  to  get  rid  of  these  internal  parasites. 

Dipping  is  a  necessity  if  you  would  keep  your  flock  in  health.  All 
animals  thrive  better  when  the  skin  is  clean.  Conkey's  Nox-i-cide  not 


Save  Loss,  Insure  Profits 219 

only  makes  a  healthy  skin,  it  makes  better  texture  of  hair  or  wool.  Some 
dips  burn,  stain  or  kink  the  wool,  take  the  life  out  of  it,  and  lower  its  market 
value.  Such  dips  ruin  the  strength  of  fibre  and  spoil  it  for  dyeing.  Conkey's 
Nox-i-cide  has  none  of  these  faults.  The  wool-factor  pays  a  higher  price 
for  the  shearing  from  Conkey-dipped  sheep. 

Some  dips  kill  scabmites  on  sheep,  but  not  ticks  and  lice.  Conkey's 
Nox-i-cide  kills  all  these  parasites.  Some  dips  cause  loss  of  little  lambs 
from  nursing  their  dams  after  dipping.  This  dip  does  not  even  nauseate 
them.  Animals  are  easily  poisoned  by  absorption  through  the  skin.  Many 
cases  of  mercurial  poisoning  are  on  record,  simply  from  the  application  of 
mercurial  ointments.  Conkey's  Nox-i-cide  is  positively  non-poisonous. 

Conkey's  Nox-i-cide  is  a  real  necessity.  It  pays  for  itself.  It  kills  lice, 
ticks,  mites,  even  the  minute  organisms  that  cause  mange,  itch,  ringworm 
and  eczema.  For  all  purposes  of  dipping  and  disinfecting  and  for  external 
dressing  of  any  part,  there  is  nothing  like  Conkey's  Nox-i-cide.  It  heals 
sores,  cuts,  gafls,  and  prevents  infection.  It  will  cure  thrush,  grease-heel 
and  scratches  when  used  as  directed.  It  will  also  stamp  out  contagious 
abortion  if  used  as  directed,  page  141,  when  this  trouble  enters  a  flock 
or  herd. 

Germs  of  many  diseases  keep  alive  for  months  unless  the  quarters  are 
thoroughly  cleaned  and  sprayed  or  washed  with  a  solution  of  Conkey's 
Nox-i-cide.  It  should  be  sprinkled  in  runs  and  yards  to  sweeten  the 
ground.  It  should  be  used  in  the  wash  water  to  keep  utensils  germ-free 
as  well  as  what  we  call  clean.  It  should  be  used  often,  it  should  be  used 
with  regularity.  It  is  even  economy  to  waste  a  little  rather  than  run  the 
risk  of  losing  a  lot  of  your  due  profit  on  account  of  preventable  disease. 

Remember  that  Conkey's  Nox-i-cide  is  cheap.  Every  gallon  makes  100 
gallons  of  ready-to-use  disinfectant.  It  is  pleasant  to  use,  no  danger  of 
explosion  or  corrosion  or  poison  to  the  user  or  to  the  stock.  You  need  it. 
It  is  a  necessity  on  every  Remedy  Shelf. 

The  price  is  right.  $1.25  gallon.  75c  half  gallon.  50c  quart.  Express 
extra.  Western  and  Canada  prices:  $1.50  gallon.  90c  half  gallon. 
60c  quart.  Express  extra. 


USE   CONKEY'S   PERFECT   SPRAYER 

For  spraying  any  Liquid  Disinfectant  t 

or   Insecticide.      It   saves  waste. 


The  best  that  can  be  sold  for  the  price 

There  is  as  much  difference  in  sprayers  as  in  cows.  You  can't  go  by  looks,  you 
must  go  by  test.  This  sprayer  is  made  of  good  tin  and  has  good  serviceable  leather 
washer.  It  is  made  well  and  does  good  work.  It  stands  the  test.  You  can  buy  a 
cheaper  article,  but  not  nearly  so  good  at  near  the  price.  Positively  the  best  spray 
pump  manufactured,  that  can  be  sold  for  the  price. 

Sprays  up  or  down.  Price,  5O  Cents    :    By  Mail,  75  Cents 


220 For  Good  Advice  on  Any 

Conkey's  Poultry  Remedies 

We  believe  in  treating  each  distinct  disease  with  a  definite, 
specific  remedy. 

Another  great  secret  of  curing  disease  is  to  apply  the  remedy  in 
the  earlier  stages.  We  have  put  up  our  remedies  in  such  convenient 
form  that  they  can  be  given  at  once  and  with  the  least  inconvenience. 
They  are  reasonable  in  price,  so  that  any  poultryman  can  afford  to 
keep  them  on  hand,  ready  for  use  at  the  logical  moment  without 
waiting  to  send  for  them.  Money  back  if  any  remedy  ever  fails  you. 


Free  Advice  on  Any  Poultry  Problems 

If  you  have  not  had  a  copy  of  donkey's  50c  Poultry  Book, 
80  p.,  write  for  it. 

Full  of  good  working  ideas.  Mailed  FREE  on  receipt  of 
4c  postage. 

Information  furnished  cheerfully.  Advice  on  any  poultry 
difficulties  FREE. 


Conkey's  Roup  Remedy  is  used  in  every  civilized  country  of  the  world  and 
is  absolutely  guaranteed  for  this  most  terrible  poultry  disease,  if 
given  in  anything  like  a  reasonable  time.  Use  it  as  a  preventive  also. 
Prices,  50c  and  $1.00  postpaid. 

Conkey's  Bronchitis  Remedy — Bronchitis  is  often  mistaken  for  Roup,  though 
it  is  a  distinct  disease  and  requires  different  treatment.  This  remedy 
does  away  with  lime  fumes  and  other  hurtful  treatments.  It  is  meet- 
ing with  great  favor  and  is  sold  on  satisfaction  guarantee.  Price, 
50c  postpaid. 

Conkey's  Cholera  Remedy — All  diseases  of  the  digestive  organs  are  com- 
monly called  "Cholera."  Actual  Asiatic  Cholera,  which  is  seldom 
seen  in  this  country,  is  incurable.  This  remedy  will  cure  all  cases 
of  so-called  Cholera,  such  as  Indigestion,  Bowel  Trouble,  Diarrhoea, 
Dysentery,  etc.  Price,  25c  and  50c,  postpaid. 

Conkey's  Gape  Remedy — Gapes  are  caused  by  gape  worms  in  the  windpipe. 
This  remedy  saves  thousands  of  little  chicks  each  season.  It  will 
save  yours  if  given  in  reasonable  time.  Price  50c;  65c  postpaid. 

Conkey's  Chicken  Pox  Remedy — Chicken  Pox  is  a  disgusting  disease.  It 
goes  by  different  names  in  different  localities.  In  the  south  it  is 
called  Sore  Head.  In  other  places,  it  is  termed  Pian,  Warts  and 
Pigeon  Pox.  It  is  the  smallpox  of  the  poultry  yard.  This  remedy 
will  wipe  it  out  every  time.  Price,  50c;  60c  postpaid. 


Poultry  Troubles,  Write  to  Conkey 221 

Conkey's  Limber  Neck  Remedy — Limber  Neck  is  caused  by  the  fowls 
eating  some  sort  of  decayed  animal  flesh  which  is  full  of  ptomaines. 
It  is  really  a  ptomaine  poisoning.  A  dead  rat  under  the  barn  may 
cause  it.  It  is  a  very  fatal  disease  if  not  attended  to  at  the  start. 
This  remedy  cures  it,  if  given  in  prompt  and  reasonable  time.  It  is 
one  of  the  remedies,  which  should  be  right  at  hand.  When  you  need 
it,  often  it  is  too  late  to  send  for  it.  Price,  50c;  60c  postpaid. 

Conkey's  White  Diarrhea  Remedy — The  new  Conkey  discovery,  a  remedy 
also  a  preventive  for  fatal  white  diarrhea  in  little  chicks.  Easy  to 
give  in  the  drinking  water.  Cures  even  bad  cases.  Have  it  on  hand 
early  to  insure  the  hatch.  It  is  chick  insurance.  Price,  50c  postpaid. 

Conkey's  Black  Head  Remedy — A  special  remedy  for  Blackhead  (Entero- 
hepatitis)  in  turkeys.  Guaranteed  results.  Price,  50c  postpaid. 

Conkey's  Poultry  Worm  Remedy — Rids  the  fowl  of  all  the  hurtful  worms 
as  well  as  the  so-called  harmless  worms.  Leaves  the  fowl  in  a 
healthy,  vigorous  state,  with  no  drain  on  its  system.  Price,  50c 
postpaid. 

Conkey's  Poultry  Laxative — Takes  the  place  of  Castor  Oil,  Epsom  Salts, 
Aloes,  etc.,  so  often  recommended  by  some,  and  denounced  by  others. 
All  doubts  are  removed  by  using  this  remedy.  Has  no  harmful  effect 
on  the  fowl,  is  a  laxative,  or  a  purgative,  according  to  the  dose, 
and  can  be  depended  upon  every  time.  Price,  25c  postpaid. 

Conkey's  Poultry  Tonic — For  birds  run  down,  off  feed,  and  out  of  condition, 
is  a  valuable  health  restorer.  Price,  25c;  30c  postpaid.  This  is  a 
general  tonic,  distinct  from  our  special  Laying  Tonic. 

Conkey's  Rheumatic  Remedy — Rheumatism  in  fowls  is  similar  to  rheumatism 
in  human  beings.  This  remedy  cures  the  lameness  and  restores  your 
fowls  to  usefulness  and  profit.  Price,  50c;  60c  postpaid. 

Conkey's  Scaly  Leg  Remedy — Scaly  Leg  is  caused  by  a  parasite  working 
underneath  the  scales  of  feet  and  legs.  It  spoils  a  fowl  and  gives  it 
a  very  bad  appearance.  This  remedy  kills  the  parasite  and  removes 
the  blemishes.  It  is  also  much  used  to  dress  the  legs  of  show  birds 
for  exhibition.  Price,  50c;  60c  postpaid. 

Conkey's  Laying  Tonic — This  article  actually  promotes  egg  production, 
without  injuring  or  straining  the  fowl  in  the  least.  It  is  not  a  food, 
which  you  can  buy  cheaper  at  home,  but  it  is  a  tonic  medicine  which 
induces  the  perfect  assimilation  of  the  food,  increases  the  appetite, 
keeps  the  egg  producing  organs  in  a  vigorous  state,  promotes  egg 
production  and  gives  the  necessary  health  to  accomplish  it.  It  is  not 
a  stimulant,  but  a  natural  tonic  which  keeps  the  vigor  of  the  fowl 
normal,  under  the  strain  of  heavy  egg  laying.  Prices,  V/2  Ibs.,  25c; 
Zl/4  Ibs.,  50c;  7  Ibs.,  $1.00;  25  Ib.  pail,  $3.00.  Expressage  extra. 

Conkey's  Healing  Salve — This  article  is  one  of  the  best  salves  known  and 
is  as  good  for  you  as  for  your  fowls.  It  heals  everything  on  man, 
beast,  or  fowl.  Price,  25c  and  50c,  postpaid. 

Conkey's  Flea  Salve — For  the  southern  Stick-tight  or  Hen  Flea.  This  kills 
and  removes  them  at  once  without  injury  to  the  fowls  and  is  proving 
of  great  value  in  exterminating  this  pest.  Price,  25c  or  30c  postpaid. 

Conkey's  Lice  Powder — This  is  a  new  powder,  discovered  since  January, 
1907.  It  is  perfectly  harmless  to  the  fowl  and  kills  the  lice  dead  on 
the  spot.  They  do  not  drop  off,  crawl  away  and  revive,  to  bother 
you  again,  but  they  are  wiped  out  entirely.  Prices,  5  oz.  Pkg.  lOc; 


222 Conkey's  Dog  Remedies 

15  oz.  Pkg.  25c;  48  oz.  Pkg.  SOc;  100  oz.  Pkg.  $1.00.    Add  Ic  per  oz. 
for  postage,  or  expressage  extra. 

Conkey's  Lice  Liquid— The  only  thing  for  Mites.  It  kills  them  in  the  cracks, 
crevices  and  holes  of  poultry  house,  roosts  and  hiding  places.  It 
keeps  your  fowls  free  of  one  of  their  greatest  pests.  Prices,  1  Quart 
35c;  2  Quarts,  60c;  1  Gallon,  $1.00;  5  Gallons  (jacketed),  $4.00.  Ex- 
pressage extra. 

Conkey's  Head  Lice  Ointment — This  article  will  destroy  the  head  louse, 
which  annually  kills  thousands  of  little  chicks.  It  has  an  agreeable 
odor,  is  perfectly  harmless  to  the  chick,  and  kills  the  head  louse  the 
moment  it  touches  him.  It  is  a  very  valuable  ointment.  Prices,  1  oz. 
Box  (good  for  100  applications),  lOc  postpaid,  3  oz.  Box  (good  for 
300  applications)  25c,  postpaid. 

Conkey's  Sulphur  Candles — Four  ounces  of  sulphur  in  each  candle,  and 
supplied  with  a  protecting  tin  basin  in  which  to  burn  it.  Easy  to 
light,  safe  to  use,  and  deadly  to  all  germ  and  insect  life.  Moisten  the 
air,  burn  the  candles  and  they  will  neutralize  all  germ  infection. 
Packed  neatly,  one  dozen  in  a  box,  or  will  sell  them  singly.  Prices, 
each  lOc,  three  for  25c,  $1.00  per  doz.  By  mail,  5c  extra  each. 
All  of  Conkey's  Remedies  are  guaranteed  to  satisfy  the  user  or  his 

money  will  be  returned  without  a  question. 

Full  description  of  these  and  all  other  known  diseases  of  poultry  in  the 

famous    Conkey   Poultry   Book,   SOc;   80  pages.     This   book  is   a   complete 

manual  of  practical  information  on  housing,  management,  feed  and  general 

care.     Sent  free  for  4c  postage  and  name  of  any  dealer. 

Conkey's  Dog  Remedies 

WE  make  a  limited  line  of  Dog  Remedies ;  but  this  includes  the 
most  frequently  needed  preparations,  and  every  article  put  out 
can  be  relied  on  for  the  work  it  is  claimed  to  do. 

Conkey's  Distemper  Remedy  for  Dogs — A  boon  to  dog  lovers.  Has  given 
entire  satisfaction  even  in  extreme  cases.  Price,  SOc;  60c  postpaid. 

Conkey's  Dog  Tonic — For  dogs  run  down,  off  feed  or  poorly  fed,  in  fact, 
debilitated  from  any  cause  or  recovering  from  disease.  Brings  them 
quickly  to  condition.  Price,  SOc;  65c  prepaid. 

Conkey's  Mange  Remedy  for  Dogs,  Cats  and  other  animals  subject  to  this 
loathsome  disease.  This  remedy  is  an  absolute  cure  if  directions 
are  followed  closely.  An  excellent  blood  purifier.  Price  SOc,  or 
65c  prepaid. 

Conkey's  Worm  Drops  for  Dogs — Remove  worms  without  injury  to  grown 
dogs  or  young  puppies,  even  the  finest  bred  dogs.  A  dependable 
remedy  for  this  common  ailment.  Price,  SOc,  or  65c  prepaid. 

Conkey's  Pi-no — We  call  attention  here  to  the  special  use  of  this  disin- 
fectant for  the  dog's  bath  and  also  to  rid  the  animal  of  fleas.  Pi-no 
is  a  thorough  antiseptic,  parasiticide,  insecticide  and  germicide.  Pleas- 
ant to  use.  Keeps  the  skin  in  healthy  fine  condition  and  cures 
any  cuts,  sores  or  surface  wounds  quickly.  An  excellent  all-around 
article  for  dogs.  Prices,  7  oz.,  25c;  pint  can,  SOc;  quart,  75c;  half 
gallon,  $1.00;  gallon,  $1.50;  5  gallons,  $6.50. 


Conkey's    "Salt-em" 223 

The  New  Medicated  Stock  Salt-- 
Conkey's  "  Salt-Em" 

All  animals  need  salt.  But  when  salt  is  given  only  occasionally, 
they  are  pretty  sure  to  take  more  than  is  good  for  them  if  they  get  a 
chance  at  it,  and  scours,  etc.,  will  result.  We  have  studied  this  special 
need  of  farm  animals  and  have  made  up  a  new  preparation  for  horses, 
cattle,  sheep  and  swine,  which  takes  the  place  of  salt,  and  combines 
the  best  suited  medical  elements,  so  that  the  preparation  as  a  whole 
can  be  given  as  a  daily  tonic,  digestive,  and  worm  remedy,  as  well  as 
a  simple  appetizer.  To  indicate  its  method  of  use,  we  have  called  this 
'new  Conkey  article  "SALT-EM." 

Left  before  stock  all  the  time  it  fills  their  entire  need  for  salt,  and 
gives  in  addition  a  quick,  easy  way  of  treating  common  diseases.  The 
animals  will  not  overdose  when  they  can  help  themselves  any  time. 
What  they  do  is  to  take  the  medication  just  as  they  need  it,  guided  by 
instinct,  so  that  it  acts  as  a  sort  of  automatic  guard  on  the  general 
health  condition.  For  instance,  an  animal  inclined  to  get  "off  feed" 
will  doctor  itself  with  "SALT-EM''  if  given  the  opportunity.  An  animal 
troubled  with  worms  will  of  its  own  accord  lick  up  "SALT-EM"  if  the 
medication  is  where  the  animal  can  get  at  it. 

"SALT-EM"  left  before  animals  all  the  time  acts  as  a  general  reg- 
ulator and  preventive.  It  increases  digestion,  hence  cuts  down  feed 
waste.  It  restores  tone  and  function  to  overtaxed  organs.  As  a  worm 
medicine  alone,  "SALT-EM"  would  prove  invaluable  to  any  stock  owner. 
These  facts  indicate  the  general  nature  of  the  article,  but  write  for 
folder  giving  complete  information. 

"SALT-EM"  is  sold  on  our  regular  guarantee.  Any  stock  owner 
can  try  it  out  in  his  own  feed  shed,  with  the  certainty  that  the  test 
will  cost  him  nothing  if  in  the  end  he  is  not  more  than  satisfied. 

But  "SALT-EM"  will  satisfy!  Its  results  will  astonish  as  well  as 
please  you. 

Prices — 100  pounds,   $5;    40  pounds,  $2.25;    10  pounds,  75  cents. 


INDEX 


Abortion    141,  176,  198 

Abscess     83 

Advice   Free 2,  220 

Anaemia    142,  176 

Anthrax    142 

Appetite    Deranged    83 

Asthma     83 

Azoturia     13,  83 

Balking    78 

Barb-wire  Cuts    84 

Barrenness    84,  198 

Beef    Cattle    40-45,134-140 

Bit  Sores    85 

Bites  of  Insects 85 

Black   Leg    142 

Blindness    85 

Bloat    143,  176 

Blood  Out  of  Order  (See  also  Anaemia)  .  .  85 

Blood    Spavin    85 

Bloody   Milk    144 

Bog  Spavin    86 

Bone  Spavin  (See  Spavin) Ill 

Bots    86 

Breeds  and   Breeding 5-7,  205 

Broken   Knee   87 

Broken   Wind    83 

Bronchitis     87 

Bruised  Knee    87 

Bull    Nose    202 

Caked  Bag   147 

Canker    Foot    Disease 95 

Capped  Elbow    88 

Capped  Hock    88 

Capped  Knee     88 

Castrating     88,   144,  167 

Cataract  of  Eye 95 

Catarrh    (Cold)    88,   144,   176,  198 

Catarrhal  Fever    181 

Catarrhal    Rhinitis    198 

Cattle,   117-156;    Diseases,   141-156;   Feeding 

35-45 

Cattle  Instruments 216 

Charbon    142 

Cholera,  Hog   199,  200 

Chorea     89 

Choryza,    Acute    198 

Cold     144,   171,  176 

Colic    89 

Collar    Boil    89 

Collar  Galls    98 

Condition   Run   Down 90 

Congestion    of    Lungs 91 

Conkey's  Absorbent    206,  215 

Conkey's  Bag   Ointment    206,  216 

Conkey's  Blister    104 

Conkey's  Colic  Remedy   206,  210 

Conkey's  Disinfectant .206,  218 

Conkey's     Distemper      Fever     and     Cough 

Remedy    206,  211 

Conkey's  Dog    Remedies    , 222 

Conkey's  Eye    Remedy    206,  212 

Conkey's  Fistula   and   Poll    Evil    Remedy.  . 

'    206,  212 

Conkey's  Fly  Knocker    206,  217 

Conkey's  Gall   Salve    206,  212 

Conkey's  Healing    Powder    206,  213 

Conkey's  Heave    Remedy    206,  210 

Conkey's  Hoof  Remedy    206,  214 

Conkey's  Horse  Tonic   206,  209 

Conkey's  Lice   Powder    221 

Conkey's  Nox-icide  Dip  and  Disinfectant  9,  218 

Conkey's  Pain   Lotion    206,  214 

Conkey's  Perfect     Sprayer     219 

Conkey's  Poultry   Remedies    220 

Conkey's   Special    Remedies    223 

Conkey's  Stock  Tonic    206.  207 

Conkey's  Veterinary    Salt    54 

Conkey's  Warming    Liniment    206,  213 

Conkey's  Worm    Remedy    206,  209 


Constipation  In  Calves,  145;  In  Cows,  152; 

In    Horses    91 

Corns 91,  95 

Cottonseed   Poisoning    200 

Cough     91,  145 

Cowpox    145 

Cracked  Heels 92 

Cribbing     92 

Curb    92,  95 

Dairy   Herd    117-132 

Dehorning     146 

Depraved    Appetite    146 

Diarrhea     92 

Digestive   Disorders    93 

Dipping     172 

Diseases,  General  Signs  of,  12;  Cattle,  141- 
156;  Horses,  83-116;  Sheep,  176-185; 

Swine     198-204 

Disinfecting 8,  11,  94,  172,  189 

Dislocation     94 

Distemper   92,  94,  100,  211,  222 

Drenching    15,  16 

Dual    Purpose    Breeds 132-134 

Dysentery 93 

Eczema    , 94 

Enteritis      93 

Exostosis    95 

Eyes    94,   110,   146,  212 

Farcy     97 

Feeds  and  Feeding,  20-55;  Economy  in 
Home  Grown,  128;  For  Sick  Animals, 
14;  Pastures,  19,  53,  174;  Table  of  Ele- 
ments, 29-30;  Beef  Steer,  31,  34,  40-45; 
Dairy  Cow,  31,  34,  35-40,  127-129; 
Horse,  31,  45-49;  Sheep,  31,  34,  49-52, 

171;    Swine    31,  34,  52-55,  190 

Feet    of    Horse 73,  74,  95,  214 

Fever     95 

Filaria    Papillosa    94 

Fistula     95,  212 

Flies,    Danger    from 18,  72,  96,  173 

Fly  Knocker    217 

Fluke  Disease    177 

Follicular    Mange    201 

Foot    Rot    146,  1 77 

Foul    Foot    146 

Founder    96 

Free   Advice    2,  220 

Free    Poultry    Book 222,  225 

Galls    97 

Garget    147,  178 

Gestation    Table    205 

Gid     178 

Glanders    97 

Glandular   Swelling 147 

Grass   Staggers    179 

Grease    Heel    98 

Grub    in    Head 179 

Halter    Pulling    98 

Hard    Hoof    98 

Harness   Galls 98 

Heat,  Failure  to  Come  in 147 

Heaves    98,  99,  210 

Hide   Bound    99 

Hog  Cholera    199 

Hogs,  186-204;  Diseases,  198-204;  Feed- 
ing   52-55 

Hoofs     73-75,  214 

Hoose  in   Sheep 176,  180 

Horses,  56-116;  Diseases,  83-116;  Feed- 
ing   45-49 

Hoven    143 

Husk   in    Sheep 176,  180 

Indigestion      100,   148,  200,  207 

Inflammation     100 

Influenza     100 

Itch    101,  150 

Joint    Disease    1  °5 

kidney    Worm    192,  201,  202 


INDEX— Continued 


Lameness     101,   148,  215 

Laminitis     96 

I.ampas     102 

Leuchorrea     1  02,    115,   148 

Lice    102,   149,   183,   192,   200,  201 

Liver   Rot    177 

Livestock:  Plea  for,  3-4;  General  Man- 
agement, 7-20;  Care  When  Sick 14 

Loss    of    Power 202 

Lumpy   Jaw    149,   150 

Lung    Fever     106 

Lungworm      1 80 

Lymphangitis    102,   103 

Maggots     181 

Mallenders      103 

Mammitis      103 

Mange    103,   150,  201 

Manure:  Care  and  Value  of,  18;  Fertiliz- 
ing Elements  in 29 

Medicine    for    Animals 15-16 

Meningitis     104 

Milk:     Care  of,   131;  Tests 121,   129 

Milk    Fever    1 50,  202 

Moon   Blindness    104 

Mouth    Sores     104 

Mules     81 

Nasal    Gleet    104,   105 

Nature   vs.    Science 24 

Navel    and    joint    Disease 105,   152 

Nodular    Disease    181 

Paper  Skin    176,   180 

Paralysis,  202;   Of   Bowels 152 

Parasiticides     9 

Parasites,  External:  Lice,  102,  149,  183, 
192,  200;  Maggots,  181;  Mange,  103, 

150,   201;    Scab,    182;    Warbles 156 

Parasites,  Internal:  Bots,  86;  Flukes, 
177;  Grub  in  Head,  179;  Kidney  Worms, 
192,  201,  202;  Lungworm,  180;  Stomach 
Worms,  184;  Worm  Bronchitis,  203; 

Worms 115,    193,  204,  207-209 

Pastures     19,   1 74 

Pink   Eye    100,   106,  211 

Pneumonia      106 

Poll    Evil    106,  212 

Poultices     16 

Proud    Flesh    107 

Pulse    12 

Quarter    Crack    107 

Quidding     107 

Quittor     95,   107 

Rations:  Beef  Cattle,  41,  42;  Dairy  Cows, 
38-40,  127;  Horses,  45-49;  Sheep,  49, 

51;    Swine    55 

Rheumatism     1 08 

Rickets    202 

Ringbone    1 08,   2 1 5 

Ringworm    108,   152 

Roaring     108 

Run   Down   Condition 90 

Saddle    Mange    94 

Sallenders      103 

Salt,    Medicated    46,52,54,208 

Salt,   Value    of 42,   172,  208 

Sandcrack    95 

Scab   in    Sheep 182 


Scalds      109 

Science    in    Feeding 21-30 

Science    in    Breeding 5-7 

Scours    153,   183,  202 

Scratches     109 

S-edy    Toe    10!> 

Sheep,     157-185;     Diseases,     176-185;     Feed- 
ing      49-52 

Shipping    Fever     110 

Sidebones    110 

Silo     36 

Skin    Disease    110 

Slinking     141 

Slobbering    154 

Snuffles     202 

Sore    Eyes    110 

Sore   Mouth    110,    154,   184,   198 

Sores    110,   154 

Spavin    (Bone)    95,    111,215 

For   Bog  and  Blood   Spavin,  see   p.   86. 

Splint    95,   111,  215 

Split    Hoof    95,  214 

Sprains     112,  213,  214 

St.    Yitus    Dai-.cj 89 

Staggers    112,   178 

Sterility     115,   154 

Stock  Salt,  Formula  for 46 

See  also  pages  42,  52,  54,  208. 

Stocking     112 

Stomach  Worms   184 

Strangles     100,   112 

Stringhalt     89,   112 

Stumbling    112 

Sturdy    (Gid)     178 

Sunstroke     112 

Sweeny     112 

Swelling     154 

Swine,     186-204;     Disease,     198-204;     Feed- 
ing     52-55 

Tables  for   Feeding    29,     30 

Tables  for   Breeding     7,  205 

Teats,   Derangements    of    151,    155,  216 

Teeth    46,  72,  113 

Ticks    184 

Thick   Wind    108-109 

Thin    Flesh    113 

Thoroughpin     113 

Throat  Soreness    113 

Thrush     95,   113,   114 

Thumps    203 

Tuberculosis     53,    155,  203 

Tumors     114,  215 

Turn   Sick   178 

Warbles     156 

Warts    114,   156 

Weed   in    Horses    103 

Whistling    108 

White    Scours    153 

Whites    ( Leuchorrhoea)     148 

Windgalls    114 

Wind   Puffs    114 

Wire   Cuts    114 

Wool   Eating    185 

Worm   Bronchitis    203 

Worms    115,   193,   204,  207-209 

Yeast   Treatment    115 


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PRIE 


HORSES 
CATTL 
SHEEP 
S  W  I  N 


INDEX 


Advice   free 

American  Standard  of  perfection. . 

Animal  foods    ^ . 

Apoplexy    

Bagging  down   

Balanced  rations    

Blackhead    47,  68 

Body  lice 53,  54,  55,  69 

Bowel    trouble    41,  66 


Page 
64 
16 
19 
60 
46 
19 


Breeding    ration 


28 


Breeds    15,  16 

Bronchitis    37,  65 

Broken   legs    64 

Bruises     62 

Building      3,  15 

Bumble  foot   61 

Burns     62 

Canker     35,  36 

Carbohydrates    in    feed     18 

Catarrh    35,  45 

Chickenpox      57,  66 

Chicks 25 

Cholera     25,  39-43,  66 

Closed  house 6 

Cold    32-37,  65 

Colony   house    6 

Congestion   of    brain    61 

Congestion     of     lungs 37 

Conkey's    Dog    Remedies    72 

Conkey's  Poultry  Remedies    64 

Conkey's     Stock    Remedies     

Conkey's   Fumigating  Candles    ....  72 

Continuous  house 

Curtain"  front    6,  8 

Cuts 62 

Depluming  mite   57 

Diarrhoea    25,  41-43,  66,  68 

Dip  and  Disinfectant   79 

Diphtheria     

Diseases    and   treatment    32-80 

Diseases  of  the  digestive  organs...  39 

Diseases  of  liver    46 

Diseases  of  the  respiratory  organs,  32 

Disinfectant      71,  79,  80 

Dog   Remedies    72 

Double-decked   house    14 

Drainage    

Droppings  board    10 

Dropsy     59 

Ducks     16,  28-31 

Dystentery     41 

Egg   eating    63 

Eggs  bloody    49 

Egg-bound 49 

Eggs   diminutive    

Eggs,    How    to    produce    50 

Eggs    for   hatching    24 

Eggs,   two  in  one    

Eggs    with    odors    50 

Eggs    without'    shells    49 

Exercise   

Fattening     27 

Favus   

Feather  eating   63 

Feeding    17-22,  30 

Fireless    brooder     23,  24 

Fits     61 

Flea     salve      70 

Fly    Knocker    78 


Page 

Free    advice     64 

Fresh    air    house 11 

Frosted    comb     60 

Fumigating  candles    72 

Gapes    38, 67 

Gastritis     45 

Geese    16,  31 

Head  lice    25,53,69 

Head  swollen   37 

Hen  fleas   or   sticktights    57 

Home-made  stock  salt   75 

Housing     4, 30 

Incubation    23-25 

Indigestion    41 

Infectious   leukemia    58 

Inflammation  of  oviduct   48 

Influenza    37 

Laxative     69 

Laying   tonic    70 

Leg  weakness   60 

Lice    25,53-57,  69-70 

Limber    neck    51,  66 

Lungs,  congestion  of   37 

Marketing      27 

Mating      24 

Mites    54,  56,  70 

Mould  (aspergillosis)    51 

Moulting    , 62 

Nests    10 

Nox-i-cide    71 

Obstructions  in  throat   45 

Open  front  house    6 

Parasites    52 

Pigeons    35 

Pi-no     .- 80 

Pip    35 

Pneumonia    38 

Poisoning     51 

Prevention  of  disease 63 

Prolapsus  of  oviduct    48 

Proteids    in    feeds    18 

Poultry   Remedies    64 

Rheumatism    60,  68 

Roosts    10 

Round   worms    52 

Roup     32,  65 

Scaly     leg     53,  67 

Scientific  endorsement   75 

Scratching    shed    14 

Sprayers 80 

Sprouted    oats    22 

Standard   poultry   house    12 

Stick-tights    57 

Stock  Remedies   73 

Stock   Vigor    74 

Sulphur   candles    72 

Tables  and  measures  65 

Tape    worm     53 

Tolman   fresh  air  house    11 

Tuberculosis    36 

Turkeys      17,  26-28,  35,  68 

Trap    nests     ' 10 

Vent  gleet 48 

Ventilation    4 

White  diarrhoea    25,  42,  68 

White  comb    58 

Wind  puff 62 

Worm    drops    73 

Worm  remedies 68,  77 


CONKEY'S 

POULTRY  BOOK 

A   HANDY  BOOK  of   REFER- 
ENCE on  POULTRY  RAISING 


25th  Edition 


Published  by 

THE   G.  E.  CONKEY  COMPANY 

Manufacturing         Chemists 
CLEVELAND,     OHIO,     U.     S  .     A. 

COPYRIGHTED,    1912,    by  THE  G.   E.   CONKEY  COMPANY 


CONKEY'S  POULTRY  BOOK  is  now  in  its  25th  edition- 
close  to  three  million  copies.     It  has  been   very  carefully 
revised,  and  can  be  relied  upon  for  up-to-date  information 
on  all  poultry  subjects.     A  plain,  common-sense  Poultry  Book — for 
practical  poultry  raisers. 

If  you  like  this  book — tell  your  dealer. 

If  it  gives  you  any  good  working  ideas  for  the  practical 
management  of  your  flock,  tell  some  other  poultryman  about  it. 

If  it  does  not  solve  your  problems — whether  on  Housing,  Feeding, 
Management  or  Treatment  of  Diseases,  write  The  G.  E.  Conkey  Co. 
for  special  advice  on  the  subject.  There  is  absolutely  no  charge  for 
such  service.  Your  letter  will  have  prompt  attention  and  the  best 
information  we  can  give  you.  Address,  Free  Information  Depart- 
ment, The  G.  E.  Conkey  Co.,  Cleveland,  O. 


Don't 

Worry! 

Conkey 

Will  Cure 

Me 


OULTRY  raising  is  about  as 
old  as  the  hills,  but  only 
within  the  past  generation  have 
the  full  possibilities  of  the 
industry  been  realized.  No  one  can 
predict  the  future.  Observation  and 
reading  are  doing  much  to  post  the 
public  on  facts  regarding  it  and  there 
seems  to  be  no  limit  in  sight— all  that  we  know  is  ^that  poultry  rr.ising  is 
now  one  of  the  most  profitabte  industries  and  that  it  is  rapidly  advancing. 
Capital  is  finding  its  way  to  investment  in  poultry  raising,  and  into  the 
manufacture  of  correct  appliances  for  its  further  advancement.  Poultry 
culture  has  the  confidence  of  the  general  public  and,  while  many  will  always 
fail  from  lack  of  application  and  proper  regard  for  necessary  cond:tions, 
these  failures  will  be  in  no  greater  proportion  than  may  be  found  in  any 
industry  that  tempts  the  unworthy  and  the  unfit  by  its  promise  of  unusual 
profits.  The  course  of  any  line  of  human  endeavor  is  marked  by  the  wrecl:s 
of  those  who  fail,  and!  who  would  fail  in  any  venture  where  study  and  ap- 
plication are  required.  To  the  man  who  is  willing  to  give  it  his  earnest  at- 
tention, his  zeal  and  application,  it  offers  the  inducement  of  a  healthy  and 
pleasant  occupation  and  the  very  best  chance  for  money  making. 

WHERE  TO  START 

In  selecting  a  site  for  a  poultry  plant,  you  are  not  obliged  to  choose 
high  priced  land.  If  you  can  select  well  drained,  well  watered,  gravelly  soil, 
it  would  be  desirable.  If  this  land  is  somewhat  wooded  so  much  the  better, 
as  shade  is  a  valuable  factor  in  poultry  raising,  and  must  be  supplied  if 
there  is  no  natural  shade.  If  you  can  choose  a  plot  where  the  ground 
slopes  to  the  south,  or  southeast,  it  will  provide  the  sun  radiation  so  neces- 
sary for  natural  warmth  and  sanitation.  Avoid  a  clay  soil. 

In  laying  out  your  plan  for  a  house,  *ee  that  it  fronts  a  little  east  of 
direct  south.  The  direct  south  would  be  right  were  it  to  be  continual  sum- 
mer, but,  when  winter  comes,  you  will  need  all  the  sun  radiation  you  can 
find,  and  the  slight  turn  to  the  east  will  provide  it  when  it  will  do  the  most 
good.  This  position  will  shelter  the  front  of  the  building  from  the  west  and 
northwest  winds.  If  you  have  some  good  meadow  land  it  will  be  of  great 
value,  for  thereon  you  can  grow  clover,  or  it  will  produce  corn  and  other 
cereals.  It  has  been  found  that  clover  can  be  made  the  base  of  profitable 
feeding,  and  a  poultry  farm  so  situated  that  it  may  produce  an  abundance 
of  green  food  is  well  selected. 

Before  you  start  to  build,  consider  carefully  the  question  of  drainage. 
The  surface  water  should  run  from  the  house — not  towards  it — and  you 
must  be  careful  that  moisture  cannot  collect  underneath  the  house  to  seep  up 
through  the  floor.  If  water  can  collect  under  the  house,  you  cannot  well  dry 
it,  even  with  ventilation  beneath.  Cess  pools  under  the  house  will  endanger 
the  health  of  fowls. 

3 


BUILDINGS 


Illustration   No.   1. 


Various  locations  may  require  different  kinds  of  buildings,  and  condi- 
tions of  climate  should  be  properly  considered.  It  is  impossible  for  us  to 
state  which  exact  variety  of  house  is  the  best  for  you,  without  knowing  just 
how  you  are  located  and  all  the  points  which  enter  into  the  subject.  A  house 
should  be  selected  with  due  regard  to  its  natural  conditions,  and  all  that  we 
can  do  is  to  give  you  valuable  ideas  about  the  housing  of  fowls,  and  the 
various  kinds  of  buildings,  and  let  you  select  to  suit  your  needs. 

The  poultry  house  does  not  need  to  be  in  any  way  fancy,  either  in  fit- 
tings or  design,  but  there  are  a  few  certain  rules  which  cannot  be  over- 
looked if  you  are  to  expect  success. 

VENTILATION — The  fowl  uses  up  more  oxygen  from  the  air  than 

any  other  breathing  creature  according  to  size.     It  has  not  sweat  glands, 

never  sweats,  and  gives  off  all  moisture  by  the  breath. 

Now  let  us  see  if  we  cannot  meet  the  requirements  of  nature  in  a  house 

for  our  fowls.    They  must  have  plenty  of  pure,  fresh  air  in  order  for  them 

to  obtain  their  natural,  and  neces- 
sary amount  of  oxygen.  We  can 
understand  that  moisture  coming 
from  the  breath,  directly  into  the 
cooler  air,  without  having  a  chance 
to  slowly  evaporate  as  it  would  in 
coming  through  a  coat  of  hair  or 
feathers,  will  condense  very  quickly. 
This  is  why  it  is  so  necessary  to  have 
perfect  ventilation  to  carry  off  this 

moisture  or  the  house  will  become  damp  and,  in  cold  weather,  a  hoar  frost 

will  form  on  the  inside  walls. 

DAMPNESS    must    be    avoided    to>   keep    the    fowls    healthy.     The 

warmer  the  air  in  a  house  the  more  moisture  it  will  hold  and,  when  this 

comes  in  contact  with  a  cooler  surface  it  condenses  in  the   form  of  hoar 

frost  in  winter,  and  makes  the  air  soggy  and  damp  in  summer,  and  it  is 

common  to  say  that  the  house  sweats.     The  remedies  for  these  conditions 

are,  first  be   sure  that  you  have  a  dry  floor,   and  the  second  is   diffusive 

ventilation  to  dry  out  the  moisture  in  the  air  as  fast  as  it  appears. 

DRAINAGE — If  circumstances  compel  you  to  build  on  ground  that  is 

not  naturally  dry,  you  should  make   it  so  by  building  up  your  ground  as 

shown  in  illustration   No.   1.     Carry     ^ 

your  foundation  walls  up  to  a  height^ 

of  eighteen  inches,  or  more,  if  neces- 
sary, above  the  level  of  the  ground, 

and  fill  in  a  foot  of  this  with  small 

stones,    coarse    gravel    and    cinders, 

and   the    remaining   six   inches   with 

sand  or  dry,  sandy  loam.    Then  slope 

up  on  the  outside  to  the  ^  bottom  of 

the    sills,    as    shown    in    illustration, 

and  you  will  turn  away  the  surface 

water    and   keep    your    floor    dry   if 

the  ground  is  not  entirely  too  wet 

about  it.  Illustration   No.   2. 

SUNLIGHT— The  next  import- 
ant thing  to  consider   is   sunlight.     It  not  only  maKes   the   house   cheerful, 
but  it  provides   a  natural  sanitation  which  tends  to  prevent   disease,  aids 


in  curing  it,  and  gives  fowls  light  to  see  grain  scattered  in  litter.  Have 
just  the  right  amount  of  glass  surface,  as  too  much  glass  makes  a  house 
too  warm  in  the  day  time  and  too  cold  at  night.  Glass  is  a  ready  con- 
ductor of  heat  and  lets  warmth  out  as  quickly  as  it  will  admit  it.  Glass 
construction  is  also  expensive.  Do  not  allow  more  than  one  square  foot 
of  glass  surface  to  twelve  square  feet  of  floor  space  and  see  that  the  windows 
are  correctly  placed.  Set  the  windows  high  and  up  and  down,  not  side- 
ways and  low.  When  they  are  high  the  sunlight  passes  over  nearly  the 
whole  floor  every  day,  drying  and  purifying  the  whole  interior. 

If  you  will  look  at  illustration  No.  2  you  will  see  that  the  sun  is  at  its 
lowest  point  from  the  middle  of  September  to  the  middle  of  March,  and 
that  is  the  time  when  it  is  the  most  beneficial  as  it  covers  the  coldest  time 
of  the  year.  Notice  the  lines  showing  the  extreme  distance  that  the  sun 
would  reach  with  the  tops  of  the  windows  at  4}4,  6l/£  and  8  feet  from  the 
groufTd.  With  the  top  of  the  window  at  4l/2  feet,  the  sunlight  would  never 
reach  further  back  than  10  feet  ll/2  inches.  At  6l/2  feet,  it  would  reach  14l/2 
feet,  while  at  8  feet,  it  would  strike  the  back  wall  of  a  sixteen  foot  house, 
§4  foot  above  the  floor.  If  lights  of  glass  in  window  are  too  small,  the 
sash  seriously  obstructs  the  light,  while  if  lights  are  too  large  the  glass  will 
prove  expensive  on  account  of  breakage.  The  proper  medium  between  the 
two  extremes  is  a  size  of  8  by  10  inches  in  a  12-light  sash,  using  two  of 
these  windows  for  a  house  of  10x12  feet.  Single  sash  is  cheaper  and  also 
handier,  as  it  can  be  hinged  and  hooked  to  the  ceiling,  or  slid  sideways  when 
opened,  instead  of  being  raised  and  lowered  as  with  ordinary  sash. 

BUILDING  THE  HOUSE 

In  planning  your  poultry  houses,  it  is  advisable  to  consider  their  loca- 
tion with  reference  to  the  economy  of  time  and  labor  involved  in  attending 
to  the  flocks.  It  would,  of  course,  be  foolish  economy  to  save  steps  at 
the  expense  of  thorough  care  of  the  fowls,  but  many  plants  involve  useless 
time  and  labor  and,  in  the  course  of  a  year,  the  loss  amounts  to  a  con- 
siderable item.  Convenience  of  operating  is  a  wise  forethought. 

Poultry  houses  may  be  briefly  classed  as  follows:  Continuous  houses 
and  colony  houses,  and  either  of  these  may  be  made  in  three  styles — open, 
closed,  and  curtain  front,  and  may  also  include  all  the  intermediate  styles 
that  may  come  under  these  classifications,  to  meet  the  various  ideas  of  differ- 
ent people  and  to  meet  different  conditions,  but  the  above  classification  is 
correct  for  all  practical  purposes  and  they  will  all  come  under  these  several 
heads. 


Illustration  No.   3. 
The  old  style  long  poultry  house. 

THE  CONTINUOUS  HOUSE— The  continuous  house  means  several 
houses  under  one  roof,  with  partition  walls,  the  wall  of  one  house  forming 
the  wall  of  the  next.  The  advantages  of  this  style  are  cheap  building, 


and  saving  time  and  labor  in  caring  for  the  fowls.     Its  disadvantages  are 

in  the  difficulty  of  keeping  free 
from  vermin  and  the  danger  of 
contagion  in  case  of  sickness. 
Many  poultrymen  claim  that  the 
advantages  and  drawbacks  balance 
each  other  and  that  the  extra  care 
involved  equals  the  labor  of  the 
colony  house  plan. 

THE  COLONY  HOUSE— 

With  the  colony  house,  each  house 
is  separate  and  distinct  and  each 
is  really  a  poultry  plant  in  itself. 
Such  houses  may  be  separated 


Illustration    No.    4. 
The   old-fashioned  colony  house. 


at  distances  to  suit  the  poultryman,  according  to  the  amount  of  traveling  he 
cares  to  put  into  the  labor  of  attending  the  flocks.  If  open  range  is  allowed 
advantage  is  taken  of  the  instinct  of  the  fowl  to  return  to  its  own  home  to 
roost.  The  colony  house  gives  a  better  chance  for  protection  against  disease 
though  it  involves  extra  labor  on  account  of  the  distances  at  which  the 
houses  are  separated. 

THE  CLOSED  HOUSE— The  closed  house  represents  the  older 
method  of  housing  the  poultry.  It  has  many  advocates  today  and,  whatever 
the  internal  improvements  may  be,  the  ventilation  must  always  depend  upon 
opening  and  closing  of  doors  and  windows  after  the  manner  of  years  gone 
by. 

THE  OPEN  FRONT  HOUSE  is  a  popular  modern  idea  and  its 
advocates  claim  much  for  it.  The  house  is  made  with  unusual  depth  and 
with  perfectly  tight  walls,  except  at  the  front,  which  is  low  and  entirely  open, 
without  curtains  or  windows.  While  this  allows  absolute  ventilation,  it 
avoids  drafts  on  the  same  principle  that  it  is  difficult  to  blow  into  a  bottle 
that  is  tight _at  every  point  except  the  opening.  The  sloping  front  and  back 
allow  the  birds  to  roost  well  up  in  the  peak,  where  the  heat  from  their 
bodies  keeps  them  warm.'  This  is,  perhaps,  an  extreme,  and  you  will  find 
it  modified  in  the  Curtain  Front  House. 

THE  CURTAIN  FRONT  HOUSE— The  curtain-front  house  is  com- 
ing into  favor  every  day.  It  will  doubtless  be  in  universal  use  before  a 
great  while,  as  it  solves  the  problem  of  ventilation  without  drafts.  It  is  a 
rather  curious  fact  that  a  frame  covered  with  muslin  will  afford  a  better 
protection  against  cold  than  a  sash  of  the  same  size  with  panes  of  glass.  It 
has  been  proved  an  excellent  plan  in  every  case  where  it  has  been  properly 
tried.  It  allows  the  air  to  filter  through  the  mesh  of  the  cloth  in  a  wny 
that  keeps  the  air  in  the  house  dry  and  provides  sufficient  oxygen  for  the 
fowis.  At  the  same  time  it  breaks  up  the  currents  of  air,  and  prevents 
drafts  by  mixing  the  air  thoroughly  before  it  can  reach  the  fowls.  It 
will,  however,  produce  shade  where  glass  will  not,  and  will  prevent  sua  radia- 
tion unless  you  also  have  glass  windows  to  use  in  winter  days  when  the  sun 
is  shining.  Many  poultrymen  provide  for  this  by  having  the  cloth  covered 
frame  so  that  it  can  be  hinged  and  hooked  to  the  ceiling,  while  the  sash  and 
glass  can  be  slid  from  .one  side  to  cover  the  openings  when  the  covered 
frames  are  elevated.  In  southern  climates,  where  the  windows  can  be  left 
open  on  a  winter's  day,  no  sash  or  glass  will  be  needed  and,  even  as  far 
north  as  the  state  of  New  York,  there  are  many  poultrymen  who  claim  that 
no  glass  is  needed  at  any  time  or  in  any  climate. 

At  the  Michigan  State  Experiment  Station,  when  the  thermometer  regis- 
tered tventy  degrees  below  zero,  for  many  days  at  a  time  these  curtained 


windows  afforded  ample  protection  and  the  fowls  kept  on  laying  without 
the  least  interruption  or  falling  off.  On  the  coldest  nights,  however,  an 
extra  curtain  was  hung  in  front  of  the  roosts.  It  was  a  most  severe  test 
of  the  value  of  cloth  as  against  glass,  in  a  very  cold  climate,  and  the  fact 
that  the  fowls  were  comfortable,  had  no  frost  bitten  combs,  and  kept  actively 
laying,  proves  tjie  great  value  of  the  idea. 

It  may  be  well  to  mention  ^  right  here  that  where  roost  curtains  are 
used,  the  too  careful  poultryman  is  apt  to  use  them  when  they  do  more  harm 
than  good.  Never  use  the  roost  curtains  unless  the  weather  is  colder  than 
twenty  degrees  above  zero. 

The  only  warmth  needed  in  a  poultry  house  is  that  given  forth  by  the 
fowls'  bodies;  therefore  the  higher  you  build  your  house  the  colder  it  will 
be.  A  low  house  is  much  easier  warmed  than  a  high  one.  If  you  will 
make  it  as  low  as  you  can  and  still  give  you  room  so  that  you  will  not 
bump  your  head,  you  will  have  plenty  of  air  space  for  as  many  fowls  as 
you  have  floor  space  for,  on  the  rule  of  five  to  six  square  feet  of  floor  per 
fowl.  You  will  find  the  continuous  house  warmer  than  the  colony  house, 
as  cold  walls  radiate  heat  rapidly. 

ROOF — The  cheapest  form  of  house  to  build  is  the  square  one,  and  the 
nearer  it  is  square  the  warmer  it  will  be,  but  there  is  the  valuable  factor  of 
sun  radiation  to  be  taken  into  consideration,  and  we  would  advise  that  the 
depth  of  the  house  be  not  more  than  fourteen  feet  and  twelve  would  be 
better.  The  sanitary  rays  of  the  sun  are  of  much  more  value  than  the  slight 
difference  in  temperature  and  cost. 

The  cost  of  a  poultry  house  is  influenced  by  the  shape  of  its  roof.  We 
would  advise  the  single  span,  shed  roof  as  the  easiest  to  build  and  the  most 
advantageous.  It  gives  the  highest  point  at  the  front,  or  south,  and  the 
best  shelter  at  the  back.  It  sheds  all  water  at  the  back  and  keeps  the  front 
dry  and  cheery.  It  also  allows  the  arrangement  of  the  windows  to  be  such 
as  to  throw  the  sunlight  back  into  the  house.  If  it  slopes  towards  the 
north,  a  tarred  paper,  or  prepared  roofiing,  will  last  much  longer  as  it  is 
not  exposed  to  the  vertical  rays  of  the  sun,  and  this  also  makes  the  house 
much  cooler  in  summer. 

FAULTY  CONSTRUCTION — In  illustration  No.  5  you  will  notice 
some  examples  of  faulty  construction.  No.  1  has  the  windows  too  low  and 

set  horizontally;  it  will  Af- 
ford but  little  sun  radiation. 
The  front  of  No.  2  is  not 
perpendicular  and  will  always 
be  a  source  of  annoyance.  In 
No.  3  the  ridge  roof  will 

cause    a    drip    to    the    front, 

/P=\ -A         1\  ^v      while  the  glass  surface  is  too 

|  RJffl  I  •    X -^  great    for    the    size    of    the 

M   *i  IBS  RF3  BBS  RHll  nollse;  ft  w*^  be  to°  warm  in 

LJ-J  M^J^nrajO-JM-AJiJ  summer  and  too  cold  in  win- 

ter.    No.  4  will  have  no  s^. 
Illustration  No.  5— Don't  build  like  this.  radiation,    the    slope    of    the 

roof  to  the  south  win  make 

it  unbearably  warm  in  summer,  and  the  high  north  wall  will  make  it  cold 
in  winter.  There  is  not  a  grain  of  good  judgment  _in_  any  one  of  these 
houses  and  we  show  them  that  you  may  avoid  any  building  not  justified  by 
common  sense  and  ordinary  philosophy. 

FLOOR  SPACE— From  5  to  6  square  feet  of  floor  space,  and  from  30 
to  36  cubic  feet  of  air  space,  for  each  fowl,  is  about  the  right  basis  of 


Illustration     No. 


measurement  in  planning  a  poultry  house.  A  house  15x12x7  feet  high  in 
front,  and  five  feet  high  at  the  back,  with  a  single  span  roof,  will  have  180 
square  feet  of  floor  space  and  1,080  cubic  feet  of  air  space,  which  allows  a 
flock  of  thirty  fowls  ample  accommodation. 

Look  out  for  dampness,  as  it  is  fatal  to  profits.  The  warmer  the  air 
in  the  house  the  more  moisture  it  will  hold  and,  when  this  comes  in  contact 
with  a  cooler  surface  it  condenses  in  the  form  of  hoar  frost  in  winter,  and 
makes  the  air  soggy  and  damp  in  summer,  and  it  is  common  to  say  that  the 
house  sweats.  The  remedies  for  these  conditions  are,  first  be  sure  that  you 
have  a  dry  floor,  and  the  second  is  diffusive  ventilation  to  dry  out  the  mois- 
ture in  the  air  as  fast  as  it  appears. 

EXPERIMENT  WITH  CURTAIN  FRONT— Illustration  No.  6 
shows  how  an  experiment  was  tried  on  the  Lone  Oak  Poultry  Farm  at  Read- 
ing, Mass.,  with  muslin  curtains.  They  were  troubled  by  moisture  condensing 
on  the  walls  and  roof  at  night,  and  then  dripping  on  the  floor  during  the 
day.  They  made  light  frames  one-fourth  the  size  of  each  window  and 
covered  them  with  one  thickness  of  ordinary  muslin.  Where  the  window 

was  dropped  one- fourth  and  the 
curtain  set  in,  as  in  Figure  No.  1, 
Illustration  No.  6,  it  resulted  in 
a  slight  draft.  When  they  used 
the  muslin  at  top  and  bottom,  as 
in  Figure  No.  2,  it  created  consid- 
erable draft,  but  where  used  in 
the  whole  half  of  the  window,  as 
in  Figure  No.  3,  they  found  that 
it  gave  excellent  ventilation,  with- 
out draft,  and  the  condensation  of 
moisture  ceased.  This,  however, 
does  not  present  the  full  curtain  front  idea,  being  only  an  illustration  of 
the  principle  in  a  small  way. 

CURTAIN  FRONT— It  is  difficult  to  predict  where  the  curtain  front 
house  is  going  to  stop.  We  know  that  curtain  front  poultry  houses,  open 
entirely  during  the  day,  even  in  cold  weather,  and  closed  only  by  curtains 
during  the  cold  nights,  are  being  tried  farther  and  farther  north,  without 
any  falling  off  of  egg  laying,  and  with  the  excellent  result  of  hardier  and 
more  active  fowls  and  a  lower  percentage  of  sickness  than  was  ever  before 
known.  That  there  is  a  limit  to  this  experiment  no  one  will  deny,  but  it 
has  not  yet  been  reached  and  every  step  so  far  has  been  of  benefit  to  the 
fowls  and  greater  profit  to  the  industry. 

To  keep  the  house  cool  in  summer  and  warm  in  winter  is  a  matter  of 
great  importance.  It  solves  the  great  problem  in  all-year-round  egg  pro- 
duction, for  you  are  simply  imitating  conditions  under  which  the  hen  complies 
with  nature  in  the  most  productive,  natural  season.  The  difference  in  temper- 
ature and  sunshine  are  the  main  reasons  why  more  eggs  are  produced  in  one 
season  than  in  another.  Thus  your  housing  has  much  to  do  with  continuous 
egg  production. 

It  is  our  intention  first  to  explain  the  various  general  principles  and 
features  of  poultry  house  construction,  so  that  you  may  get  a  fair  idea  of 
the  problem  to  be  tackled.  It  is  no  use  going  into  the  details  of  building 
until  you  have  a  clear  idea  of  what  you  are  building  for.  All  this  pre- 
liminary talk  will  familiarize  you  with  the  subject  and  give  you  a  foundation 
for  intelligent  choice  for  your  own  particular  needs.  You  are  not  building 
for  a  man  in  Greenland — you  are  building  for  yourself,  on  your  own  land, 
and  according  to  your  own  bank  account. 

8 


INTERIOR  OF  HOUSE 

There  are  some  general  principles  that  should  be  followed  as  the  re- 
sult of  the  experience  of  others,  and  this  experience  is  a  capital  in  your  busi- 
ness which  costs  you  nothing  and  which  you  cannot  afford  to  neglect.  Any 
devices  that  save  labor,  protect  against  vermin,  promote  the  health  of  youi 
fowls  and  add  to  your  profits,  should  have  your  keenest  investigation.  Some 
of  them  may  appear  to  be  small  matters,  but  they  have  cost  others  much 
thought  and  worry. 

FLOORS — Have  the  floors  of  your  house  clear — that  is  have  no  fix- 
tures on  the  floor  level.  Roosts,  feeding  troughs  and  drinking  founts 
should  be  on  platforms  elevated  from  the  floor,  as  it  will  be  very  much 
easier  to  keep  the  floor  clean  if  it  is  free  from  fixtures  of  all  kinds. 

The  kind  of  floor  rests  with  you  as  a  simple  problem  of  cost.  If  you 
wish  the  very  best,  a  cement  floor  is  the  most  sanitary  and  lasting,  though 
its  first  cost  is  high.  If  you  wish  the  next  best,  we  would  advise  the  board 
floor,  as  it  can  be  easily  cleaned.  The  earthen  floor  remains  to  those  who 
feel  that  they  cannot  afford  the  others  mentioned.  While  it  is  much  used, 
it  has  the  disadvantage  of  absorbing  the  droppings  of  the  fowls  and  will 
require  digging  out  and  renewing  at  more  or  less  frequent  intervals.  The 
process  of  laying  board  and  cement  floors  will  be  found  under  different 
headings. 

EARTHEN  FLOORS — Fill  in  up  to  the  sills  with  small  stone,  or 
coarse  gravel,  pound  it  down  well  and  cover  with  earth  and,  if  you  mix  the 
earth  with  coal  ashes,  it  will  make  a  good,  hard  floor  after  being  well  tamped 
down.  This  raises  your  floor  so  that  surface  water  will  run  away  from  it. 
If  the  ground  is,  unfortunately,  in  a  hollow,  it  will  be  well  to  raise  your 
sills  much  more  than  eight  inches  and,  in  some  cases,  eighteen  inches  would 
be  little  enough. 

BOARD  FLOORS — In  laying  a  board  floor,  allow  for  an  eight-inch 
space  beneath  it,  with  openings  for  ventilation  and  for  the  cat  to  get  in  and 
out  to  drive  out  rats  and  other  marauders.  Have  floor  tight  and  level. 

CEMENT  FLOORS  AND  FOUNDATIONS— Concrete  is  not  as 
expensive  as  stone,  where  the  stone  is  laid  in  mortar  and  pointed  up,  and 
is  much  more  satisfactory.  It  is  equally  as  rat  proof,  less  liable  to  heave  by 
frost  or  moisture,  and  is  easier  to  make.  For  such  a  light  building  as  a 
poultry  house,  the  foundation  walls  need  not  be  more  than  eight  inches 
thick,  but  they  should  extend  below  the  frost  Jine  so  that  they  will  not  be 
disturbed.  To  make  a  grout  (cement)  wall,  you  must  make  a  frame  or  mold 
to  hold  the  soft  material  until  it  has  set  or  hardened.  First  drive  a  stake 
where  each  corner  of  the  building  will  come.  You  can  then  stretch  a  cord 
to  stakes  driven  two  feet  beyond  each  corner  in  all  directions.  Other  lines 
may  be  stretched  from  stakes  eight  inches  inside  the  corner  posts,  to  mark 
the  inside  limit  of  the  wall.  The  trench  must  be  dug  enough  wider  to 
permit  of  driving  stakes  for  the  retaining  frame,  and  such  stakes  must  be 
driven  on  the  outside  surfaces  of  the  retaining  frame  so  that  the  mold  will 
have  an  inside  surface  that  will  make  the  wall  smooth  on  both  faces.  The 
wooden  frame  should  be  perfectly  level  on  the  top  so  that  your  building  will 
also  set  level. 

The  best  Portland  Cement  is  the  cheapest,  and  use  only  clean,  sharp 
sand.  Mix  one  part  of  cement  to  four  parts  of  sand  when  dry.  To  this 
add  five  parts  of  clean  gravel  or  fine  cracked  stone.  First  mix  thoroughly 
when  dry,  and  then  mix  with  water  until  every  particle  of  cement  is  evenly 

9 


mixed  throughout  the  mass.  The  whole  secret  of  good  solid  work  is  in  the 
quality  of  cement  and  sand,  and  in  the  most  thorough  mixing.  When  in 
a  soft  condition  it  should  be  thrown  into  the  frame  and  well  tamped.  It 
will  require  a  day  or  two  for  the  wall  to  set,  when  the  frame  can  be  re- 
moved and  the  trench  filled  in  with  earth. 

The  cement  floor  is  drier  than  any  other  and,  as  it  is  more  durable, 
great  care  should  be  taken  in  laying  it.  Your  floor  should  have  a  properly 
drained  foundation,  which  is  provided  for  by  filling  in  with  fine  stone  to 
within  two  inches  of  the  top  of  the  foundation  walls,  and  over  this  should 
be  spread  the  same  kind  of  grout  used  in  the  foundation  walls.  Then  lay 
your  sills  on  the  foundation  walls  perfectly  level.  On  top  of  the  floor  lay 
a  dressing  of  one  part  of  cement  and  four  parts  of  sand.  This  should  be 
troweled  perfectly  smooth  and  level,  and  should  be  well  flushed  up  against 
the  sills  to  prevent  the  entrance  of  moisture  between  the  sills  and  founda- 
tion. Some  prefer  to  embed  the  sills  in  the  top  of  the  wall,  making  wall 
flush  with  top  of  sill. 

ROOSTS — Roosts  should  be  made  of  2x3  stuff  set  edgeways  with  cor- 
ners slightly  rounded.  Many  patent  roosts  have  oil  cup  attachment  to  pre- 
vent mites  from  crawling  on  the  fowls  at  night,  but  while  they  are  excellent, 
they  are  not  absolutely  necessary,  as  the  poultryman  can  keep  the  houses 
entirely  free  from  mites  and  other  vermin  by  using  the  proper  exterminators 
and  attending  to  them  frequently. 

DROPPINGS  BOARD— 
One  of  the  greatest  necessities 
is  a  droppings  board  under  the 
roosts.  It  should  be  made  eas- 
ily removable  for  cleaning  and 
is  one  of  the  best  safeguards 
for  sanitation.  The  usual  way 
of  arranging  the  roosts  is  to 
have  them  close  to  the  north 
wall,  and  at  about  half  the 
height  of  the  wall.  Below  the 
roosts  is  the  movable  droppings 
board  and  below  the  droppings 
board  are  the  nests. 

NESTS— These  should  be 
easily  movable  and  rest  on  the 
floor.  The  entrance  should  face 
the  rear  of  the  house  which 
will  prevent  the  fowls  from 
throwing  litter  into  the  nests 

while    scratching,    and    it    will    also  help  to  keep  the  nests  dark  and    prevent 

the    egg    eating  habit. 

TRAP  NESTS — Trap  nests  are  different  in  construction  from  ordinary 
nests.  They  should  be  located  along  the  side  wall.  One  trap  nest  for  every 
five  hens  will  be  plenty. :  Trap  nests  are  not  easily  removable  so  will  require 
extra  care  to  keep  them  clean.  These  nests  differ  from  ordinary  nests  in 
having  no  way  of  escape  for  the  hen  after  she  once  enters  the  nest.  There 
are  many  styles  of  trap  nest  on  the  market.  The  poultryman  can  take  his 
choice — the  simplest  being  the  most  practical — or  he  can  make  his  trap  nests 
at  home  at  small  cost.  Of  course  there  is  some  extra  labor  connected  with 
the  trap-nest  system.  The  nests  must  be  visited  at  frequent  intervals  during 
the  day  and  the  laying  hens  liberated.  But  in  these  days  the  trap  nest  is  a 
necessity.  It  weeds  out  the  non-layers  and  the  lazy  layers,  or  rather  it  gives 


VESTS  IN  REAR 
Illustration  No.  7. 


10 


the  poultryman  a  chance  to  do  this— for  with  his  trap  nests  to  show  what  each 
hen  is  doing  he  can  tell  which  fowls  are  money  makers,  and  which  are  merely 
boarders  and  loafers.  Laying  qualities  will  vary  greatly,  even  with  hens  of 
the  same  strain  and  under  the  same  good  treatment.  Keep  the  hens  having  the 
best  trap  nest  records.  Watch  the  winter  trap  nest  records  especially.  Keep 
these  profitable  birds  for  breeding. 

One  of  the  greatest  helps  of  the  trap  nest  system  is  that  it  makes  it 
possible  for  the  poultry  man  to  identify  each  egg,  know  just  which  hen 
laid  it  and  by  her  record  decide  whether  it  should  be  kept  for  hatching. 
It  isn't  always  the  good  looking  hen  that  lays  the  egg  and  frequently  some  of 
the  best  layers  are  sacrificed  at  the  end  of  the  season,  while  good  looking  but 
poorly  performing  fowls  are  kept  over  for  breeding.  Then  the  poultryman 
wonders  why  it  is  that  his  stock  grows  more  and  more  shiftless  about  laying. 
The  man  with  the  trap  nest  knows — not  only  what  each  hen  is  doing  but 
what  he  himself  is  doing  by  his  system  of  working. 


THE  FRESH  AIR  HOUSE 


The  Tolman  Twentieth  Century  Fresh  Air  House  is  probably  the  most 
popular  of  the  extreme  type  in  this  house  and  the  steady  increase  in  the 
number  used  each  year  indicates  they  are  giving  general  satisfaction.  With 
this  house  the  south  end  is  run  wide  open  summer  and  winter,  storm  or 
shine.  It  can  be  used  in  the  coldest  sections  of  the  United  States  and  many 
parts  of  Canada,  but  in  bleak  and  extremely  cold  locations  where  the  temper- 
ature goes  to  zero  and  frequently  below  it  would  be  well  to  arrange  a  coarse 
muslin  curtain  to  drop  in  front  of  the  roost  platform  at  night  during  the 
most  severe  weather.  There  are  several  strong  points  in  favor  of  this  house, 
the  chief  one  being  that  it  promotes  health,  vigor,  a  good  egg  yield  with 
increased  fertility  and  solves  the  question  of  perfect  ventilation.  Breatli- 
ing  a  greater  amount  of  oxygen,  creates  a  better  circulation  of  blood  and 
the  fowls  are  kept  in  the  best  physical  condition  all  the  time.  _  The  peculiar 
construction  of  the  house  and  position  of  the  roosts  makes  it  comfortable 
for  the  fowls  at  night  and  prevents  any  danger  of  their  roosting  in  a  draft. 
Owing  to  the  good  ventilation  the  house  is  dry  and  free  from  frost  at  all 
times. 

This  fresh  air  house  is  a 
very  simple  one  to  construct, 
being  a  plain  hip-roofed 
building  with  a  long  pitch  of 
the  roof  to  the  front  or  south. 
For  the  roof,  east,  west  and 
north  sides,  inch  boards 
shingled  are  recommended, 
however,  any  material  suit- 
able for  poultry  house  con- 
struction can  be  used  so  long 
as  the  walls  are  perfectly 
tight.  When  a  small  house  is 
built  it  should  be  eight  feet 
wide  by  fourteen  deep,  four 
feet  high  in  front,  five  feet  at  rear,  and  about  seven  feet  at  the  peak  of 
roof.  The  originator  favors  a  size  somewhat  larger  than  this  to  meet  the 
requirements  for  all  kinds  of  weather  and  locations  with  a  capacity  for 
from  65  to  80  layers.  This  house  should  be  fourteen  feet  wide  by  twenty- 

11 


Illustration  No.  8. 
The  Fresh  Air  House. 


one  feet  deep,  six  feet  high  on  the  north  and  four  and  one-half  on  the 
south.  The  highest  part  of  the  roof  should  be  ten  feet  from  the  ground. 
In  either  size  house  a  full  size  window  should  be  placed  in  the  middle  of  the 
west  side  and  the  door  in  the  center  of  the  east  side  opposite.  In  operating 
this  house  in  the  summer  both  the  door  and  the  window  are  removed  and 
replaced  with  wire  netting.  The  south  front  which  is  always  open  is  covered 
with  one  inch  mesh  wire  netting  and  a  gate  in  this  gives  the  fowls  access 
to  the  yard.  A  double  boarded  floor  is  recommended  and  roosts  and  drop- 
pings board  should  be  built  along  the  north  wall  as  in  other  houses  we 
describe.  In  such  a  deep,  narrow  house  the  roosts  will  extend  farther  out 
towards  the  front  than  is  usual  and  for  this  reason  we  would  place  the 
nests  along  the  west  wall,  keeping  them  up  from  the  floor. 


A  STANDARD  POULTRY  HOUSE 


Another  very  practical  house  is  the  Standard  Poultry  House.  We  give 
it  this  name  because  it  is  equally  serviceable  for  the  farmer  or  for  the  regular 
poultryman.  The  poultryman's  experience  in  the  business  may  justify  him 
in  paying  out  more  money  for  poultry  house  construction  than  the  farmer, 
or  the  amateur,  may  care  to  invest;  so  we  describe  different  ways  of  making 
floors,  etc.,  that  a  choice  may  be  taken  in  the  matter  of  cost. 

The  design  we  give  is  subject  to  as  many  additional  pens  as  may  be 
desired,  though  the  length  given,  32  feet,  allows  for  two  pens  accommo- 
dating from  35  to  40  fowls 
each.  The  house  will  be  12x 
32,  or  12x16  for  each  pen. 
Considering  the  height  of 
seven  feet  in  front,  the  depth 
of  twelve  feet  is  sufficient,  as 
we  require  the  sunlight  to 
reach  back  as  far  as  possible. 
For  the  cheaper  construc- 
tion, this  house  should  rest  on 
cement  piers  or,  where  they 
are  not  available,  on  posts 
driven  into  the  ground.  There 
should  be  twelve  of  these 


Illustration    No.    9. 
Standard   Poultry   House. 

at  the  middle  of  each  end, 
and  three  at  front  and  rear 
at  equal  distances  between 
the  corners.  Remember  that 
the  number  of  piers  men- 
tioned provides  for  the 
whole  building  of  two  com- 
partments. These  piers 
should  extend  below  the 
frost  line  and,  at  least  eight 
inches  above  the  ground. 
The  sills  resting  on  these 
piers  should  be  of  4  x  4 
scantling,  while  all  the  rest 
of  the  frame  can  be  of  2x4 
stuff,  except  the  rafters 
which  should  be  2x5. 


piers,  one  at  each  corner,  one 


Illustration  No.    10. 
End   View   of   Standard   Poultry  House. 

12 


WALLS — The  walls  of  this  house,  on  every  side  except  the  south,  are 
made  of  one  inch  thickness  of  matched  pine  lumber,  and  it  is  best  to  put 
the  planed  side  inside,  as  it  improves  the  appearance  and  is  more  easily 
whitewashed.  The  outside,  except  the  south,  is  covered  with  a  thickness  of 
good  roofing,  and  should  be  painted  some  light  color  that  is  more  attractive 
than  the  original  color  of  the  roofing,  and  it  also  adds  to  the  durability, 
which  counts  in  poultry  house  construction.  The  only  part  that  is  double 
boarded  is  the  portion  that  is  directly  back  of  and  above  the  roost  platform 
and  as  far  as  it  extends  forward.  An  air  space  is  formed  between  the  stud- 
ding and  the  outside  boarding  and,  if  you  will  leave  a  little  opening  at  the  top 
and  bottom  of  the  inner  boarding,  the  warm  air  of  the  house  interior  will 
circulate  through  the  space  and 
will  keep  it  warmer  than  if  the 
air  were  dead.  The  circulation 
mentioned  will  keep  the  inside 
plate  warm  and  will  prevent  con- 
densation of  moisture  to  a  won- 
derful degree. 

FRONT— The  front  of  this 
house  is  made  of  one  thickness 
only  of  ordinary  cove  siding  and 
is  without  paper,  making  a  loose 
construction.  This  kind  of  a  wall 
warms  up  the  inside  air  when  the 
sun  is  shining  and  the  warmth 
does  not  readily  pass  out  because 
the  other  three  sides  are  free 
from  draft.  It  may  seem  a  little 
strange  that  if  a  window  is  left 
open  in  the  front  of  a  street  car 
vestibule,  the  motorman  who  sits 
directly  opposite  will  notice  but 
little  wind,  if  he  keeps  the  door  closed  behind  him.  If  your  three  walls  and 
top  are  tight,  the  air  can  only  come  in  gradually  at  the  front  and  can, 
therefore,  change  the  temperature  but  very  slowly.  The  principle  is  the  same 
in  either  case. 

In  making  the  frame  work,  the  studding  is  placed  four  feet  apart  and 
the  rafters  two  feet  apart  from  centers.  The  boards  are  laid  horizontally. 
Nearly  the  whole  front  is  filled  with  window  and  other  openings,  and  is  of 
cheap  and  easy  construction.  This  house  provides  fresh  air  in  abundance 
without  drafts,  and  will  insure  all  reasonable  dryness.  It  is  as  warm  as  it 
can  be,  while  securing  ventilation  and  freedom  from  dampness,  without  hav- 
ing artificial  heat,  or  heat  from  overcrowding  the  fowls. 

The  well  ventilated  house  allows  the  moisture  to  pass  away  without  con- 
densing on  the  walls,  and  is  much  warmer  than  a  tightly  closed  house,  as 
moisture  makes  a  house  cold  by  evaporation,  as  you  would  cool  a  room  by 
sprinkling  the  floor. 

The  house  should  have  an  abundance  of  sunlight  for  several  reasons : 
Fowls  do  not  like  dark  places  except  when  sitting  or  laying  or  else  when 
•they  are  sick,  and  the  light  is  necessary  for  sanitation.  If  the  windows  are 
placed  near  together,  as  shown  in  illustration,  both  pens  will  receive  the 
light  from  both  windows  providing  that  the  front  portion  of  the  inside  par- 
tition is  of  wire  netting.  There  will  be  ample  room  for  door  in  partition, 
thus  avoiding  draft  in  the  continuous  houses. 

WINDOWS — The  windows  should  measure  about  3x5  feet  and  can 
be  fitted  with  8x10  glass.  They  are  stationary  and  should  be  screened  with 

13 


Illustration    No.    11. 
Ground   Plan   of   Standard   Poultry  House. 


a  wire  netting  on  the  inside  to  protect  the  glass  should  the  fowls  attempt 
to  fly  through  the  window.  Each  apartment  is  also  covered  with  a  muslin- 
covered  frame  10  feet  by  3  feet  4  inches,  that  can  be  raised  or  lowered  as 
required.  The  bottom  of  the  opening  is  3  feet  4  inches  from  the  floor.  As 
all  openings  come  nearly  to  the  top  of  the  roof,  they  will  provide  for  the 
escape  of  warm  and  foul  air  in  hot  weather. 

SCRATCHING  SHED— You  will  note  that  this  house  is  a  scratching 
shed  over  the  whole  area,  as  all  roosts  and  fixtures  are  raised  from  the 
floor  on  platforms,  leaving  a  clear  space  for  the  litter  in  which  the  fowls 
exercise. 

THE  DOUBLE-DECKED  HOUSE 

The  next  house  that  we  illustrate  seems,  at  first  glance,  to  be  a  small 
affair,  but  it  is  really  a  case  of  making  the  most  of  a  given  space,  and  will 
accommodate  forty  fowls  in  each  pen,  or  eighty  for  the  double  house,  at  a 
cost  that  should  not  exceed  fifty  cents  per  hen  for  building.  There  are  a 
great  many  features  of  this  house  that  will  appeal  to  the  practical  poultryman 

and  it  would  be  wise  to  investi- 
•gate  its  merits  before  fully  de- 
ciding upon  your  method  of 
building. 

This  is  really  a  two-story 
house,  having  its  scratching 
shed  on  the  lower  floor.  If 
you  will  take  the  measurements 
from  the  bottom  of  the  door 
to  the  roof,  you  will  notice  that 
the  full  height  of  the  ordinary 
house  is  provided  for  upon  the 
upper  floor,  7  feet  in  front  and 
5  feet  at  back.  One  difficulty 
of  a  scratching  shed  is  the  fact 
Illustration  No.  12.  that  a  fowl  always  scratches 

The   Double-decked   Poultry   House.  with    its    head    to    the    light,    SO 

that  the  litter  will  always  be  found  piled  up  in  the  darkest  corner  where  it 
is  the  hardest  to  get  at.  The  utility  of  this  form  is  that  the  rooms  are  en- 
tirely independent,  and  there  is  nothing  to  prevent  having  tight  windows  at 
opposite  points  on  the  lower  floor.  The  temperature  is  not  such  an  im- 
portant part  as  upon  the  upper  floor.  The  lower  compartment  also  pro- 
vides an  ideal  place  for  a  dust  bath,  thus  avoiding  dust  in  the  roosting  and 
living  quarters.  There  is  no  reason  why  the  upper  floor  should  not  also 
be  used  as  a  scratching  floor,  which  will  allow  more  square  feet  per  fowl 
than  is  usually  provided  for. 

This  house  is  much  used  in  the  west;  it  admits  of  all  modern  improve- 
ments and  conveniences,  and  we  can  see  no  reason  why  it  should  not  become 
popular  in  any  location  and  climate.  Besides  all  this,  the  house  is  ^  really 
much  handsomer  than  the  usual  squatty,  shed-like  structure,  is  a  saving  in 
labor  and  money,  and  is  of  compact  cheap  construction. 

The  elevation  of  the  house  as  shown  in  illustration  No.  12  is  ten  feet 
at  front  and  eight  feet  at  back,  but  it  can  easily  be  made  higher  if  more 
height  is  desired  on  the  lower  floor.  It  is  ten  feet  deep  by  twenty-four 
feet  long,  providing  two  rooms  (upper  and  lower)  to  each  pen  10  x  12  feet, 
making  480  square  feet  of  floor  space  under  a  roof  one-half  the  size  usually 
necessary  for  the  same  accommodation.  There  is  a  labor  saving  in  cleaning 
and  the  house  can  be  extended  by  as  many  pens  as  may  be  desired. 

The  original  idea  of  this  house  was  to  have  a  dirt  floor  on  the  lower 


story,  bui  we  would  preier  a  board  or  cement  floor  lor  samtar>  reasons. 
No  matter  how  carefully  you  may  rake  or  scrape  a  dirt  floor,  a  portion  of 
the  filth  always  soaks  into  the  ground,  and  it  is  next  to  impossible  to  get 
rid  of  it.  The  accumulation  eventually  becomes  dangerous  to  the  health  of 
the  fowls  and  we  consider  the  extra  cost  of  a  floor  a  very  wise  investment. 

Note  some  other  excellent  ideas  in  this  illustration.  The  roosting  room 
has  splendid  ventilation  and  the  use  of  curtained  frames  provides  all  air 
needed  without  drafts.  For  very  cold  climates  roost  curtains  can  also  be 
provided  as  described  for  other  houses. 

The  projecting  roof  on  front  makes  a  good  rain  protector  and  keeps  the 
water  from  the  lower  story.  Front  curtains  are  9f  6"x3' — the  full  width  of 
the  cloth,  and  the  openings  could  be  made  still  larger,  as  required.  Common 
unbleached  muslin  makes  an  excellent  curtain.  The  interior  can  be  arranged 
as  described  for  the  standard  house,  with  elevated  roosts,  feeding  troughs, 
drinking  founts,  etc.  If  deemed  advisable,  curtains  can  also  be  provided  for 
the  lower  floor  for  use  in  colder  weather,  and  could  be  hooked  to  the  ceiling 
when  not  required. 

This  house  will  cover  eighty  head  of  grown  fowls  nicely,  and  if  cleaned 
regularly,  as  any  house  should  be,  and  the  inside  whitewashed  once  in  six 
months,  it  will  provide  for  all  the  requirements  of  the  careful  poultryman 
and  keep  his  fowls  in  absolute  health,  activity,  and  comfort.  See  illustra- 
tions Nos.  10  and  11,  Standard  Poultry  House,  for  interior  plans. 

In  the  houses  which  we  have  illustrated,  all  the  principles  of  correct 
housing  have  been  fully  set  forth.  We  might  go  ahead  and  show  plans  for  a 
dozen  shapes  and  styles  and  be  no  better  advisers  to  you  than  we  have  been 
here.  Construct  your  houses  in  any  manner  suitable  to  your  exact  case, 
let  the  houses  be  continuous,  or  colony  style,  but  keep  in  mind  the  great 
ideas  of  DRY  FLOORS,  ABUNDANT  VENTILATION,  NO  DRAFTS, 
and  you  cannot  go  astray,  always  providing  you  do  not  overcrowd.  Build 
large  enough  to  accommodate  the  full  number  of  fowls  you  expect  to  keep. 

SELECTION  OF  BREEDS 

This  subject  may  well  be  considered  the  foundation  to  success  or  failure 
in  the  poultry  business  and  it  should  receive  your  careful  thought.  You  are 
going  into  the  business  for  profit, ,  so  do  not  be  content  with  scrub  stock  foi 
it  makes  a  poor  investment.  We  do  not  mean  that  you  should  purchase 
"fancy  fowls"  or  "show  birds",  but  endeavor  to  obtain  thoroughbred  fowls 
or  eggs  from  thoroughbreds. 

The  poultry  business  is  no  exception  to  the  rule  that  if  you  desire  pay- 
ing results,  you  must  have  a  foundation  for  success,  and  no  man  can  suc- 
ceed who  builds  with  poor  stock.  It  costs 
no  more  to  feed  and  care  for  a  standard 
fowl  than  a  mongrel,  and  you  cannot  realize 
high  class  results  from  the  latter.  From 
such  attempts  have  come  some  of  the  fail- 
ures recorded  against  the  industry.  You 
would  not  try  to  run  a  dairy  without  the 
very  best  grade  of  stock,  nor  would  you  ex- 
pect the  best  crops  without  planting  the 
best  seed  obtainable.  This  is  the  point  on 
which  many  poultrymen  fail,  so  make  it  a 
point  to  start  right.  Select  a  breed  that  is 

making  a  good  showing  for  your  particular  Illustration  No.  13. 

purpose ;  and  have  your  stock  of  some  re-    Barred  Plymouth  Rock — American, 
liable  strain.  Make  sure  that  the  birds  are  healthy  and  vigorous  individuals. 

In  every  line  you  will  find  a  man  who  has  a  hobby.     Watch  out  for 

1$ 


Illustration    No.    14. 
Cochin — Asiatic. 


him.  He  is  a  good  talker,  believes  in  himself  and  his  hobby,  and  is  forever 
seeking  converts  to  his  wonderful  ideas.  Follow  the  advice  and  methods  of 
the  man  whose  ideas  are  paying  him  and  whose  experience  is  showing  in 
actual  dollars  and  cents.  It  is  a  case  where  money  talks  and  outweighs  fads 
and  fancies.  Experience  is  often  an  expensive  teacher,  so  let  the  knowledge 
)t  tne  man  who  is  winning  be  a  help,  and  take  the  short  road  to  profit. 
It  is  generally  more  profitable  to  keep  but 
one  breed  of  fowls,  and  much  care  should 
be  exercised  and  investigation  made  regard- 
ing the  stock  for  the  climate  and  location, 
instead  of  going  into  the  business  blindly. 

DIFFERENT  BREEDS--The  space 
in  this  little  book  will  not  allow  us  to  fully 
describe  all  the  different  breeds  of  fowls. 
Every  poultryman  should  procure  a  copy  of 
"THE  AMERICAN  STANDARD  OF 
PERFECTION,"  which  gives  the  weight,] 
shape,  markings,  and  color  of  each  breed 
for  male  and  female,  as  well  as  all  points 
for  judging  value.  This  book,  which  is 
published  by  the  American  Poultry  Associa- 
tion, is  the  guide  for  all  poultry  judges  in 
the  awarding  of  prizes.  It  is  revised  every 

five  years  and  sells  for  the  uniform  price  of  $1.50.  The  most  popular  breeds 
JUiSt  ?°o  seem  t°  be.  the  Leghorns,  Wyandottes,  Plymouth  Rocks,  Rhode 
Island  Reds  and  Orpingtons.  But  we  must  not  infer  from  this  that  there 
are  not  other  breeds  with  qualities  equally  good.  According  to  The  Standard 
of  Perfection,  the  different  classes  of  fowls  may  be  noted  as  follows  • 

AMERICAN    CLASS— Plymouth    Rocks,    Wyandottes,    Javas,'  Domi- 
niques,  Rhode  Island  Reds,  Buckeyes. 

ASIATIC  CLASS— Brahmas,  Cochins,  Langshans. 

MEDITERRANEAN   CLASS— Leghorns,   Minorcas,    Spanish,   Anda- 
lusians,  Anconas. 

ENGLISH  CLASS— Dorkings,  Redcaps, 
Orpingtons. 

POLISH  CLASS— Polish. 

DUTCH  CLASS— Hamburgs. 

FRENCH  CLASS— Houdans,  Creve- 
coeurs,  La  Fleche,  Favorelles. 

GAME  AND  GAME  BANTAM 
CLASS — Games  and  Game  Bantams. 

ORIENTAL  GAME  AND  BAN- 
TAM CLASS— Indians,  Sumatras,  Ma- 
lays, Malay  Bantams. 

ORNAMENTAL    BANTAM    CLASS 

— Sebrights,  Rose  Comb,  Booted,  Brahma, 
Cochin,  Japanese,   Polish. 
MISCELLANEOUS  CLASS— Silkies,  Sultans,  Frizzles. 
In  the  Standard  of  Perfection  the  above  classes  are  again  subdivided  into 
the  several  different  varieties  of  each  particular  breed,  but  our  space  allows 
us  only  to  mention  them  in  a  casual  way. 

DUCK   CLASS— Pekin,   Aylesbury,   Rouen,   Cayuga,   Call,   East   India, 
Crested,  Muscovy,  Indian  Runner,  Swedish. 

GEESE  CLASS— Toulouse,  Embden,  African,  Chinese,  Wild  or  Cana- 
dian, Egyptian. 

16 


Illustration  No.    15. 
Orpington— English. 


TURKEY  CLASS— Bronze,  Narragansett,  Buff,  Slate,  White,  Black 
and  Bourbon  Red. 

FEEDS  AND  FEEDING 

must  depend  very  much  upon  three  points:  The  kind  of  machine  you  use, 
the  quality  and  quantity  of  raw  material  which  goes  into  the  machine,  and 
the  kind  of  a  man  you  have  to  run  it  In  this  connection  the  domestic 

fowl  may  be  compared  to  the  machine. 
The  feed  is  the  raw  material  which  goes 
into  the  machine  and  it  must  be  balanced 
correctly  to  produce  eggs  or  meat — which- 
ever you  are  trying  to  obtain.  The  man 
in  charge  should  know  his  business,  not 
only  to  correctly  feed  the  machine,  but  to 
properly  care  for  it,  repair  it,  and  keep  it 
in  working  order.  It  sounds  easy,  but  every 
poultryman  knows  it  is  a  problem  worthy 
of  much  study  and  attention. 

The  first  thing  is  to  realize  a  few  facts 
regarding  the   domesticating   and   training 
of  what  was  originally  a  wild  fowl  in  the 
Illustration  No.  16.  jungles   of   India.      Nature   made   her   lay 

Leghorn-Mediterranean.  but  twdve   eggg   a   vear>   an(j   then    Qnly   jn 

proper  season.  We  have  trained  her  to  lay  160  eggs  a  year  and  at  all  seasons 
and,  while  many  people  who  do  not  know,  tell  you  to  follow  nature,  don't 
attempt  it,  for  it  is  a  hindrance  to  the  poultryman  instead  of  a  help.  In 
this  day  of  advancement  a  poultryman  must  follow  science  instead  of 
nature.  It  is  dead  against  the  nature  of  a  fowl  to  lay  an  egg  in  winter,  and 
that  is  when  we  demand  them  because  we  can  secure  high  prices  then.  We 
must  have  our  feeds  very  much  better,  and  easier  to  assimilate,  than  nature 
contemplated,  and  we  must  give  more  warmth  and  care  than  nature  pro- 
vided. We  are  demanding  very  unnatural  results  under  very  unnatural  con- 
ditions and  must  make  up  the  difference. 

A  certain  percentage  of  the  failures  that  poultrymen  have  met  with  is 
directly  due  to  the  matter  of  feeding  and  an  entire  flock  can  be  ruined  in  a 
very  short  time  by  improper  and  careless  feeding. 

To  maintain  perfect  health  and  vigor  in  your  fowls  you  must  consider 
for  what  purpose  you  are  feeding,  and  give  them  a  balanced  ration,  which 
means  a  supply  of  food  containing  every  element  necessary  to  properly 
supply  all  that  you  demand  and  at  the  same  time  insuring  the  health  of  the 
fowl  under  forced  confinement  and  unnatural  conditions.  You  should  un- 
derstand the  value  of  foods  and  supply  them  intelligently. 

We  might  go  into  the  question  of  special  feeding  for  different  purposes; 
feeding  the  little  chicks;  feeding  for  broilers;  for  roasters,  etc.,  etc.,  all 
of  which  require  special  consideration.  But,  in  the  limits  of  this  little  book, 
we  can  only  touch  the  subject  lightly  here  and  there  and  give  you  a  fair 
idea  as  to  general  requirements.  While  we  will  do  our  best  to  give  such 
hints  as  our  space  will  permit,  we  wish  to  impress  you  with  the  fact  that 
there  is  a  deep  study  coming  to  the  man  who  wishes  to  succeed ;  that  it  is 
not  guess-work  or  hap-hazard  chance,  but  a  subject  for  thought  and  serious 
attention  of  the  man  who  has  his  money  invested. 

In  poultry  journal  items,  and  in  scientific  treatises  on  feeding,  an  ordi- 
nary man  runs  up  against  a  lot  of  terms  which  he  does  not  usually  under- 
stand, and,  even  when  he  becomes  familiar  with  them  by  seeing  them  often, 


he  still  fails  to  fully  grasp  their  meaning  and  application.  We  will 
endeavor  to  explain  a  few  of  them  in  the  simplest  possible  manner. 

PROTEIDS— Proteids  are  the  foods  which  renew  the  waste  of  the 
fowl.  In  any  animal  there  is  a  continuous  process  of  waste  which  must 
be  as  continuously  renewed.  In  the  fowl  there  is  not  only  the  natural  wear 
of  the  body,  and  the  natural  excretions  of  moisture,  etc.,  but  there  is  manu- 
factured and  voided  each  day,  an  egg  of  the  average  weight  of  one  and 
three  fourths  ounces,  which  would  equal  three  pounds  in  human  beings  of 
average  weight  could  they  be  forced  to  do  a  like  stunt. 

The  elements  of  food  which  build  up  the 
young  chick  in  bone,  flesh  (not  fat)  and  feath- 
ers, and  which  supply  the  tremendous  waste  in 
the  grown  fowl,  are  called  proteids,  and  life 
cannot  begin  or  continue  without  them.  Pro- 
tein does  not  come  alone  in  any  one  food,  but 
is  mixed  with  other  elements.  The  following 
list  of  foods  are  very  high  in  proteids  and  are, 
therefore,  called  protein  foods:  Cottonseed 
Meal,  Flax  Meal,  Linseed  Meal,  Gluten  Meal, 
Brewers'  Dried  Grains,  Malt  Sprouts,  Wheat 
Middlings,  Bran,  etc.  Now:  because  of  their 
high  protein  value,  these  various  foods  are 
rich  and  they  must  not  be  fed  as  liberally  as 
you  would  ordinary  ground  grains.  The  fowl 

can  take  up  into  its  system  a  certain  amount  of  protein.  If  you  feed  more 
it  is  wasted,  and  what  is  worse,  taxes  digestion  and  bowel  trouble  is  sure  to 
follow.  Many  formulas  recommended  by  common  authorities  are  far  too 
strong  in  oil  meals.  Include  protein  feeds,  but  watch  the  limit  carefully. 
Protein  is  always  an  expensive  food  element,  so  do  not  waste  it. 


CHICK  FEED  — Mixture 
of  1  part  each,  by  weight,  of 
Corn,  Wheat,  Hulled  Oats 
or  Pin  Head  Oat  Meal,  and 
Kaffir  Corn,  cracked,  screen- 
ed, and  sized  suitable  for 
chicks.  To  this  add  1  part 
of  Millet  Seed,  ^  part  Grit 
(chick  size),  and  1A  part 
Charcoal  (chick  size).  We 
would  also  recommend  any 
of  the  high-grade  chick 
feeds  on  the  market. 


CARBOHYDRATES— These  can  be  called  the  fuel  of  the  body  as 
they  furnish  the  heat.  It  is  necessary  to  keep  the  body  warm  besides  build- 
ing it  up.  We  burn  coal  to  keep  a  living  room  at  seventy  degrees  of  tem- 
perature and  carbohydrates  must  be  fed  to  keep  the  fowl  s  temperature  at  its 
normal  point,  (which  is  above  fever  heat  in  man),  or  the  fowl  becomes 
chilled  and  dies.  Carbohydrates  furnish  the  steam  to  warm  the  egg  factory 
and  the  strength  with  which  to  manufacture  the  proteids  into  eggs  and  new 
material.  Carbohydrates  also  produce  fat  and  make  a  fowl  lazy  and  inactive 
unless  the  fowl  can  be  made  to  exercise.  Exercise  consumes  the  carbohy- 
drates in  the  blood,  leaving  the  blood  rich  in 
protein  to  make  the  egg  and  to  build  up,  and 
keep  up,  the  wearing  parts.  Carbohydrates  are 
the  starchy  foods,  such  as  Corn,  Cornmeal, 
Cob  Meal,  Hominy  Meal,  Ground  Oats,  Bar- 
ley, Buckwheat,  etc.  You  will  find  it  pays  best 
to  feed  a  variety  of  grains,  mixing  them  or 
feeding  one  or  two  at  one  meal  and  a  differ- 
ent kind  the  next.  The  body  gets  fuller  food 
value  when  there  is  this  variety.  Vary  from 
time  to  time,  but  never  make  sudden  changes. 
For  instance,  on  a  cold  night  a  good  idea  is  to 
feed  all  whole  corn,  but  in  milder  weather  mix 
oats  with  it. 


GROWING  FEED— Equal 
parts  Wheat,  Cracked  Corn, 
Kaffir  Corn,  and  Hulled  Oats. 
Use  no  Oats  with  hulls  nor 
Barley  or  Buckwheat  until 
chicks  are  at  least  two 
months  old.  Use  Beef 
Scraps  in  hopper  or  in 
mash  feed,  Ground  Green 
Bone,  or  Blood  in  mash. 


18 


MASH  FEED — By  weight 
as  follows:  2  parts  Bran,  1 
part  Ground  Oats,  1  part 
Corn  Meal,  1  part  Middlings, 
y2  part  Gluten  Meal  (if  ob- 
tainable. To  this  mash  can 
be  added  cooked  vegetables, 
or  steamed  Alfalfa  or  Clover, 
but  not  to  exceed  %  of  the 
whole  mash;  Beef  Scrap  12% 
to  15%  of  the  mash,  but 
omit  if  Beef  Scrap  is  al- 
ready fed  from  the  hopper. 


ANIMAL  FOODS  are  full  of  protein  and 
take  the  place  of  bugs,  worms,  etc.,  that  the 
fowl  finds  in  her  natural  season  for  laying. 
They  are  Milk,  Beef  Scrap,  Blood  Meal,  Green 
Bone  ,etc.  Such  foods  (rich  in  protein)  are 
positively  necessary,  but  take  care  not  to  over- 
feed. A  good  plan  is  to  feed  beef  scrap  in  a 
hopper,  letting  the  fowls  help  themselves,  just 
as  they  pick  up  bugs  for  themselves  in  sum- 
mer. Many  prefer  to  include  animal  food  in 
the  mash  feed.  Milk  in  its  various  forms  is 
often  fed  this  way.  Of  course  milk  is  one 
of  the  best  animal  foods.  In  feeding  green 
bone,  be  careful  not  to  feed  too  much,  or  bowel 
trouble  will  surely  follow. 

GREEN    FOODS— These    take    in    all 

kinds  of  fruits,  vegetables  and  growing  grasses  and  grain.  Alfalfa  Meal, 
Clover  Meal,  Sprouted  Oats,  Cabbage,  Beets,  etc.  All  fowls  should  have  some 
green  food  daily,  to  get  the  best  results.  One  of  the  most  valuable  of  green 
foods  is  sprouted  oats,  for  which  read  special  section.  Like  the  others 
green  foods  help  furnish  the  domestic  fowl  with  its  properly  balanced  food 
supply  according  to  the  needs  of  nature. 

BALANCED  RATIONS— A  balanced  ration  is  one  so  made  that  it 
furnishes  just  what  the  fowl  needs.  Balanced  rations  are  selected  and 
compounded  from  the  foregoing  according  to  knowledge  of  what  is  re- 
quired, at  various  seasons,  to  produce  eggs  and  meat  in  addition  to  maintain- 
ing normal  health  and  vigor.  We  must  take  into  consideration  that  we  de- 
mand vastly  more  from  the  fowl  than  nature  ever  did;  that  we  twist  the 
seasons  so  that  the  fowl  will  lay  in  winter,  and  that  we  have  to  supply  food 
to  meet  these  requirements  over  and  above  what  nature  would  provide  when 
the  fowl  was  idle.  We  are  giving  a  few  formulas  for  feeds  and,  while  they 
are  excellent  in  themselves,  they  should  be  frequently  varied.  Ingredients 
of  equal  value  should  be  substituted  as  often  as  possible.  Fowls  cannot 
thrive  on  a  continuous  diet,  but,  like  ourselves,  require  a  change.  Their 
appetites  flag  on  one  line  of  food  and  your  profits  grow  correspondingly  less. 

OTHER  FEEDING  POINTS— It  is  not  only  what  to  feed,  but  how 
much  and  how  often,  that  determines  success.  A  laying  hen  should  have  at 
least  six  ounces  of  food  per  day,  which  seems  an  enormous  quantity  in  pro- 
portion to  her  weight,  until  we  consider  the  great  drain  upon  her. 

Beginners  are  very  apt  to  forget  some  of  the  essentials  of  poultry  feed- 
ing, the  lack  of  which  causes  serious  complica- 
tions and  disorders.  Grit,  Oyster  Shell,  Mor- 
tar, Charcoal,  Green  Cut  Bone  (or  other  ani- 
mal food,  and  pure  fresh  water,  are  the  very 
items  which  should  never  be  forgotten.  It  is 
a  wise  idea  always  to  have  such  food  before 
the  fowls.  We  might  make  one  exception  to 
the  above  and  that  is  not  to  feed  too  much 
Green  Cut  Bone,  but  alternate  it  with  other 
animal  foods  from  time  to  time.  One  pound 
of  Green  Cut  Bone  to  20  fowls  is  enough  at 
any  one  feed.  More  will  cause  bowel  trouble. 
The  whole  secret  in  feeding  Green  Cut  Bone 
is  in  small  amounts  often,  not  large  feeds  just 
Once  in  a  while. 


SCRATCHING  FEED— 
Mixture  of  Wheat,  Oats, 
Corn  (Whole  or  Cracked), 
Barley,  Kaffir  Corn,  Buck- 
wheat, and  Millet  Seed. 

Sunflower  Seed  can  be 
added.  Cut  out  Buckwheat 
in  summer. 


19 


EXERCISE — Exercise  is  as  necessary  as  food,  and  fowls  cannot  thrive 
without  it.  Make  them  work  for  their  living.  Unless  the  fowls  have  free 
range,  it  is  wise  to  feed  all  grain  by  scattering  it  in  a  six  inch  litter  of 
straw,  cut  alfalfa,  leaves,  or  anything  that  will  make  them  work  by 
scratching. 

Remember  that  their  food  will  do  them  little  good  if  they  are  troubled 
with  lice.  Lice  will  take  away  their  vitality  and  their  flesh  faster  than  food 
can  put  them  back.  Watch  out  for  lice,  and  fight  them  at  all  times  with  the 
best  lice  killers  that  you  can  procure.  A  general  idea  of  what  should  be 
done,  mixed  with  a  little  good,  common  sense,  is  the  best  rule  known. 

Conkey's  Lice  Preparations  will  soon  put  the  parasites  out  of  business 
and  a  little  of  Conkey's  Roup  Cure,  occasionally  placed  in  the  drinking 
water,  will  tone  up  the  birds  and  prevent  colds  and  other  troubles. 

FEEDING  THE  CHICKS 

Young  chicks  should  be  given  no  food  whatever,  for  the  first  48  hours 
after  hatching.  The  very  last  process  of  incubation  is  the  absorption  of  the 
remaining  portion  of  the  yolk  of  the  egg.  This  absorption  is  Nature's  way 
of  feeding  the  chick  at  the  start,  and  it  should  not  be  interfered  with  by 
giving  them  other  food.  A  little  fine  grit,  or  coarse  sand,  should  be  within 
their  reach  when  they  are  first  placed  in  the  brooder  and  this  should  be 
kept  constantly  before  them.  They  should  also  have  plenty  of  cool  fresh 
water.  This  should  be  given  them  in  founts  made  for  the  purpose,  which  will 
not  allow  the  chicks  to  become  wet  and  chilled. 

The  chicks  should  never  be  fed  sloppy  food,  even  if  you  have  to  con- 
fine yourself  to  the  feeding  of  dry  mixed  grains.  Chicks  are  usually  fond 
of  a  mash  feed  and  are  inclined  to  stuff  themselves  with  it  if  allowed  to  do 
so.  Where  this  is  given  avoid  feeding  too  much  at  a  time  and  never  give 
more  than  they  will  clean  up,  as  it  sours  and  sickens  them.  There  can  be 
no  objection  to  the  use  of  a  light  mash  feed  once  a  day,  but  it  should  not 
be  given  oftener  unless  you  are  forcing  chicks  for  broilers.  Chicks  that  are 
to  be  raised  to  a  useful  maturity  should  be  fed  principally  on  dry  grains, 
such  as  any  good  "chick  feed."  Many  successful  poultry  raisers  keep  dry 
wheat  bran  before  the  chicks  from  the  time  they  are  hatched  and  this  largely 
takes  the  place  of  a  mash  feed. 

Under  natural  conditions,  the  hen  will  lead  her  brood,  scratching  a  little 
here  and  there,  and  the  chicks,  in  turn,  picking  up  a  grain  at  a  time,  will  ob- 
tain a  balanced  ration  of  all  dry  feed.  If  we  follow  the  mother  hen  as  to 
method  of  feeding  we  are  not  likely  to  make  much  of  a  mistake.  Ex- 
haustive experiment  has  been  made  along  this  line  and  different  people  hold 
different  views,  but  the  majority  of  opinion  is  greatly  in  favor  of  the  dry 
method  as  a  means  of  preserving  the  chicks  against  diseases  of  the  digestive 
organs,  most  often  termed  Cholera.  The  dry  feed  should  be  made  up  of  dry 
grains,  properly  proportioned,  and  ground  or  crushed  to  the  right  size. 
Feed  the  little  chicks  four  or  five  times  a  day,  but  give  them  only  such  a 
quantity  as  will  keep  them  active.  The  brooder  floor  should  be  covered 
with  a  light  litter  of  cut  clover,  hay,  or  straw  or  scratching  material.  Exer- 
cise is  just  as  necessary  for  chicks  as  it  is  for  fowls  and  unless  they  have 
free  range  all  grains  given  them  should  be  scattered  in  the  litter  or  raked 
into  the  earth  in  the  run,  so  the  chicks  will  be  kept  busy  scratching  for  most 
of  the  day. 

When  the  chicks  are  one  week  old,  begin  to  give  them  a  little  green 
food  and  increase  gradually  as  they  grow  older.  Onion  tops,  clover  leaves, 

20 


lettuce,  cabbage  chopped  fine,  and  grass  or  tops  from  sprouted  oats  cut  into 
short  lengths,  less  than  J/2  inch,  are  all  excellent  for  the  purpose. 

The  use  of  animal  food  in  some  form  is  of  considerable  help  in  the 
proper  development  of  the  chick.  Beef  scrap,  lean  meat,  finely  ground 
green  bone,  blood  meal,  bone  meal  and  milk  in  its  various  forms  are  used 
in  various  ways  in  feeding  the  chicks.  Milk  can  be  used  liberally  without 
harm,  but  the  other  articles  mentioned  must  be  fed  with  some  caution. 
When  feeding  fresh  bone  or  meat  make  sure  that  it  is  perfectly  fresh  and 
sweet  and  when  beef  scrap  is  used  it  should  be  of  the  best  quality.  Animal 
foods  should  not  be  given  until  after  the  first  week  and  then  only  in  small 
quantities  at  first.  Beef  scrap  is  one  of  the  most  popular  forms  of  animal 
food  in  use  and  many  poultry  raisers  allow  their  chicks  free  access  to  hop- 
pers filled  with  this  material.  A  too  liberal  use  of  the  more  concentrated 
forms  of  animal  foods  is  likely  to  cause  bowel  trouble,  and  this  must  be 
guarded  against.  The  right  sort  of  feeding  is  the  secret  of  raising  chicks 
and  should  be  attended  to  carefully  and  not  wastefully.  Keep  the  chicks 
just  hungry  enough  to  be  willing  to  work  for  what  they  get.  A  careless 
feeder  not  only  wastes  the  food,  but  will  ruin  the  flock.  Irregular  care  of 
little  chicks  leads  to  failure.  One  hour's  chill,  caused  by  a  lowering  of 
temperature  in  the  brooder,  may  bring  the  setback  which  cannot  be  made  up 
for  quite  a  while,  if  ever,  Continuous  care  is  the  secret  of  success,  and 
systematic  observation  of  conditions  is  necessary  at  all  times.  It  does  not 
do  to  give  excellent  care  for  ten  hours,  and  then  forget  what  should  be 
done  at  the  eleventh  hour. 

FEEDING  FOR  BROILERS 

Where  chicks  are  raised  for  broilers  they  should  be  fed  very  much  the 
same  as  other  chicks  for  the  first  two  weeks,  but  after  that  time  such  a 
method  of  feeding  must  be  used  as  will  produce  a  plump  carcass  weighing 
from  one  and  one-half  to  two  pounds  in  the  shortest  possible  time.  Heavy 
feeding  is  necessary  to  fatten  the  chicks  quickly  and  the  digestive  apparatus 
can  be  taxed  to  the  limit  for  this  process  does  not  have  to  be  carried  on  for 
any  length  of  time.  At  the  beginning  of  the  third  week  a  mash  feed  should 
be  given  once  a  day  and  the  fourth  week  add  one  more  feed  of  this  material. 
When  the  chicks  are  a  month  old,  three  moderate  feeds  of  mash  should  be 
given  each  day,  finishing  up  the  meal  with  a  little  grain  scattered  in  the  litter 
to  induce  exercise.  To  get  the  best  results  the  chicks  should  be  fed  four 
or  five  times  a  day  and  at  such  times  when  the  mash  is  not  used  a  mixture 
of  whole  and  cracked  grains  of  a  suitable  size,  as  well  as  some  green  food, 
should  be  given.  During  the  last  two  weeks  of  feeding  the  bulk  of  the 
food  given  should  be  mash.  In  feeding  broilers  the  mash  used  is  somewhat 
different  from  that  ordinarily  given  to  chicks,  being  more  fattening.  A 
mixture  of  five  parts  corn  meal,  four  parts  wheat  bran  and  six  parts  ground 
oats  (without  hulls)  should  give  good  results.  If  oats  without  the  hulls  aje 
not  obtainable,  substitute  middlings  of  about  half  the  quantity.  Oats  with 
the  hulls  should  never  be  used"  for  small  chicks.  Iri  feeding  the  mash 
moisten  the  ground  grains  just  enough  to  make  a  crumbly  mass,  for  sloppy 
foods  must  never  be  used.  A  little  bone  meal  and  ground  charcoal  and  a 
very  little  salt  will  be  found  excellent  m  the  mash.  Animal  food  should 
be  given  broilers  same  as  other  chicks  and  green  foods  supplied  daily. 
Broilers  should  not  be  given  free  range  or  the  use  of  large  yards,  but  they 
cannot  be  kept  in  healthy  condition  or  successfully  grown  if  they  are  over- 
crowded. If  conditions  are  favorable  the  broiler  should  be  ready  for  the 
market  in  eight  to  ten  weeks. 

21 


SPROUTED  OATS 

Since  the  value  of  sprouted  oats  for  use  as  a  green  food  for  poultry  has 
become  generally  known,  it  has  steadily  grown  in  favor.  They  are  greatly 
relished  by  the  fowls,  are  inexpensive  and  can  be  fed  to  chicks  as  well  as 
fowls.  When  chicks  are  small  only  the  finely  chopped  tops  or  blades  should 
be  used.  The  process  of  sprouting  the  oats  is  a  simple  one,  but  there  are 
several  facts  in  regard  to  it  that  are  well  worth  knowing.  For  sprouting 
purposes  new,  heavy  oats  should  be  used.  Trays  should  be  started  at  such 
intervals  as  will  keep  the  supply  constant.  The  amount  started  at  one  time 
would  vary  with  the  size  of  the  flock,  but  should  not  be  more  than  will 
be  used  in  three  to  five  days.  If  the  oats  are  kept  too  wet  after  they  are 
partly  grown,  or  if  not  used  after  a  certain  time,  they  will  become  sour 
and  rapidly  rot.  Just  what  quantity  of  sprouted  oats  should  be  used  for  a 
given  number  of  fowls  would  vary  some  with  conditions.  A  strip  or  sec- 
tion containing  sixty  square  inches  is  a  safe  amount  to  use  for  one  hundred 
hens,  but  more  can  be  used  if  it  does  not  cause  looseness  of  the  bowels. 
During  the  summer  oats  can  be  sprouted  out  of  doors,  but  in  cold  weather 
they  must  be  kept  inside  where  the  temperature  is  high  enough  to  keep  them 
growing,  and  the  warmer  they  are  kept  the  faster  will  be  their  growth.  A 
warm  cellar  makes  a  very  desirable  place.  The  use  of  trays  for  sprout- 
ing the  oats  has  been  found  to  give  the  best  results  and  they  should  be  made 
only  large  enough  to  hold  oats  for  three  to  five  days'  feeding.  About  four 
trays  will  then  be  necessary  to  supply  the  fowls  with  oats  at  such  a  time  as 
they  are  most  suitable  for  feeding.  For  one  hundred  fowls  make  four  trays 
about  fifteen  by  twenty  inches.  The  sides  and  ends  should  be  one  inch 
boards  six  inches  wide.  Cover  the  bottom  of  this  tray  with  lath  previously 
soaked  in  water  to  prevent  splitting  and  bulging  and  have  them  just  close 
enough  to  keep  oats  from  going  through  the  cracks.  Nail  a  piece  of  lath 
flat  ways  across  either  end  on  the  bottom  of  the  tray.  This  permits  drain- 
age, but  does  not  dry  out  the  oats  too  rapidly.  Make  a  sash  to  cover  each 
tray,  fitting  it  with  glass  or  oiled  muslin.  This  sash  is  for  admiting  light 
and  holding  the  warmth  and  moisture.  Five  pints  of  oats  should  be  evenly 
spread  over  a  tray  of  the  size  mentioned  above  and  thoroughly  sprinkled 
with  warm  water.  Carefully  cover  the  entire  surface  of  the  oats 
with  two  to  four  thicknesses  of  burlap  and  again  sprinkle.  This  sprinkling 
process  should  then  be  repeated  once  a  day,  or  oftener  if  the  temperature  is 
high.  Do  not  disturb  the  oats  after  they  are  placed  in  the  trays.  They  will 
sprout  evenly  if  kept  wet  and  warm  and  stirring  will  break  the  tender 
sprouts.  After  the  sprouts  are  about  an  inch  high,  remove  the  burlap  and 
cover  tray  with  sash.  Keep  the  sash  on  till  oats  are  about  three  inches 
high,  when  it  can  be  left  off  for  good.  Begin  feeding  when  sprouts  are 
about  four  inches  high.  Some  judgment  must  be  used  in  the  treatment  to 
suit  the  varying  conditions.  To  remove  from  tray,  cut  down  through 
sprouts  and  roots  and  peel  the  oats  from  the  lath  bottom.  If  each  tray  is 
refilled  as  soon  as'  emptied  there  will  be  a  constant  supply  of  the  oats,  pro- 
viding the  proper  number  of  trays  are  in  use. 

When  we  consider  the  food  value  of  the  sprouted  oats  and  the  fact 
that  a  feed  for  one  hundred  fowls  can  be  produced  from  one  pint  of  oats 
at  cost  of  less  than  one  cent,  it  can  be  readily  seen  why  this  form  of  green 
food  is  so  universally  recommended. 

22 


INCUBATORS  AND  BROODERS 

Nothing  has  played  so  important  a  part  in  raising  the  poultry  business, 
from  a  simple  pastime  to  a  great  industry,  as  the  incubator  and  brooder. 
In  the  value  of  its  output  the  poultry  industry  is  second  to  none  in  the 
world.  During  the  experimental  years,  results  were  far  from  promising 
or  satisfactory,  but  today  there  are  a  large  number  of  excellent  machines  in 
the  field,  which  work  mechanically,  require  practically  no  attention,  and 
which  bring  to  life  a  high  percentage  of  the  fertile  eggs  intrusted  to  their 
care. 

A  perfect  incubator  has,  first,  a  perfect  radiation  of  heat,  controlled  by 
an  active  thermostat  that  will  regulate  the  slightest  change  of  temperature 
in  the  egg  chamber ;  second,  the  necessary  amount  of  ventilation.  Each  manu- 
facturer has  his  own  way  of  controlling  these  matters  and  there  are  many 
reliable  makes  it  would  be  safe  to  choose. 

No  poultryman  can  hope  to  succeed  in  building  up  a  large  business,  in 
any  way  satisfactory  or  profitable,  without  an  incubator  and  brooder  of  some 
standard  make.  They  are  absolute  necessities  in  the  present  day. 

Some  people  make  the  great  mistake  of  buying  a  good  incubator,  ex- 
pecting to  make  a  brooder  of  their  own,  or  to  provide  some  scheme  to  get 
along  without  one.  We  advise  most  strongly  against  this  error !  It  is  a 
comparatively  easy  matter  to  hatch  chicks,  but  to  raise  them  is  the  problem 
and  one  great  help  in  this  is  a  high  grade  brooder. 

The  brooder  is  made  in  two  patterns — the  indoor  and  outdoor.  Those 
arranged  for  indoor  use  are,  as  a  rule,  the  more  successful  though  the 
outdoor  brooders  answer  admirably. 

Absolute  cleanliness  in  brooders  is  a  positive  necessity,  as  right  there 
is  laid  the  foundation  of  the  future  health  of  the  chick.  Filthiness  and 
disease  generally  go  together. 

A  brooder  should  be  roomy  and  well  supplied  with  heat,  always  from 
overhead.  Provision  should  be  made  so  that  chicks  do  not  crowd,  as  they 
are  very  apt  to  do  if  the  temperature  is  not  right.  If  too  cold  they  will  at 
once  huddle  together  and  many  may  be  smothered.  One  of  the  greatest 
mistakes  made  by  poultrymen  is  trying  to  keep  too  many  together.  As  they 
grow  older  they  should  be  separated — fifty  chicks  in  any  compartment  being 
enough — and  as  they  mature,  even  a  smaller  number  is  better. 

FIRELESS  BROODERS — All  the  heat  that  is  needed  in  a  poultry 
house  can  be  obtained  from  the  fowls'  bodies  if  the  house  is  correctly  designed 
and  built.  The  same  principle  is  now  used  in  the  fireless  brooder  for  little 
chicks,  which  is  a  well-ventilated,  padded  box  that  holds  and  evenly  dis- 
tributes the  heat  from  the  bodies  of  many  chicks  together. 

It  is  a  very  important  item  that  the  heat  be  so  distributed  that  the 
same  temperature  is  kept  up  in  the  various  parts  of  the  brooder  and  that 
the  ventilation  is  well  distributed.  Fresh  air  and  equal  heat  are  the  serious 
problems. 

In  mild  weather  fireless  brooders  can  be  used  out  of  doors,  but  equable 
temperature  is  a  necessity  for,  should  chicks  run  from  an  inner  temperature 
of  80  or  90  degrees  to  an  outside  air  at  freezing  point,  you  could  look  for 
colds,  roup,  bowel  troubles,  and  death.  The  logical  place  for  the  fireless 
brooder  is  in  a  room  or  brooder  house  where  the  temperature  outside  the 
brooder  can  be  maintained  steadily  at  a  point  above  freezing.  Some  claim 
that  much  greater  extremes  are  all  right,  but  we  would  accept  such  state- 
ments with  caution. 

23 


HOME-MADE  FIRELESS  BROODER— A  home-made,  fireless 
brooder  may  be  constructed  as  follows  and  it  will  answer  all  practical  pur- 
poses: Take  */2  inch  or  1  inch  lumber  and  make  a  box  11  inches  high  and 
20  inches  square.  Rip  the  box  5  inches  from  the  top  and  6  inches  from 
the  bottom,  and  hinge  on  one  side  so  that  they  will  close  as  they  were 
before  being  ripped.  In  each  end  of  the  top  bore  three  1  inch  holes  and, 
from  the  two  center  holes  (one  on  each  end)  have  tin  tubes  running  from 
holes  to  points  4  inches  from  center.  Leave  other  holes  as  they  are. 
These  holes  are  for  ventilation  and  the  tubes  from  two  of  the  holes  will 
convey  the  air  to  and  from  center  of  brooder,  while  the  other  four  will 
ventilate  the  outer  edges.  Make  a  frame  to  fit  into  bottom  part  and  set  on 
cleats  so  as  to  come  flush  with  point  where  bottom  and  top  of  box  join. 
Tack  porous  cloth  to  this  frame,  either  canvas  or  muslin,  and  let  it  sag  in 
the  center  to  within  2  inches  of  bottom  of  box.  On  top  of  this  canvas  or 
muslin  put  pads  of  cotton  batting,  say  a  layer  about  2  inches  thick.  Have 
this  layer  of  padding  such  that  you  can  gradually  lessen  it  as  the  chicks 
grow.  Remove  it  entirely  at  3  or  4  weeks  if  weather  is  mild.  Later  you  can 
remove  the  cloth  entirely.  The  bottom  part  of  this  box  line  with  felt  on  sides 
and  always  have  a  warm  litter  of  finely  cut  straw  or  clover  in  the  bottom. 
Leave  an  opening  in  front  of  the  box  3l/2  inches  square  for  chicks  to  go 
out  and  in.  If  nights  are  very  cold  it  may  be  well  to  partly  bank  up  opening 
with  litter  so  as  to  keep  out  some  of  the  cold,  though  the  opening  should  not 
be  closed  entirely  as  it  also  provides  ventilation.  This  brooder  will  be  found 
all  right.  As  many  as  fifty  chicks  may  be  kept  in  the  brooder  for  one  week, 
twenty-five  for  three  weeks,  and  twenty  until  they  weigh  \l/2  pounds  each. 
There  are  also  many  styles  of  fireless  brooders  on  the  market  that  may  be 
bought  reasonably  and  save  the  trouble  of  making. 

MATING — No  matter  how  well  situated  your  poultry  farm  may  be, 
or  how  good  its  buildings,  or  how  excellent  your  incubators  and  brooders, 
success  cannot  be  obtained  unless  you  can  secure  strong  and  fertile  eggs. 
The  first  consideration  must  be  the  health  of  your  stock.  The  male  birds 
must  be  kept  in  vigorous  health  and  the  number  of  females  with  which  they 
are  permitted  to  run  must  be  limited.  With  the  American  and  English 
breeds,  one  male  to  each  ten  females,  with  the  Mediterranean,  one  male  to 
each  fifteen  females,  and  with  the  Asiatic,  one  male  to  six  or  eight  females, 
are  about  the  right  proportions. 

SELECTION  OF  EGGS — Care  should  be  exercised  in  selecting  eggs 
for  hatching.  There  is  a  great  difference  in  eggs  and,  although  it  is  not 
generally  known,  it  is  possible  to  arrive  at  some  idea  of  their  hatching 
qualities  before  they  are  placed  in  the  incubator.  An  egg  which  will  produce 


Fresh  Egg  Dead  Germ  Egg  at  7  Days  Air  Cell  at 

Hatching  Time 
Illustration  No*  17 

24 


a  fine,  ^iroag  chicken  will  iiavt  a  shell  ol  even  texture.  If,  by  holding  it 
between  your  eyes  and  a  good,  strong  light,  the  shell  appears  to  be  porous 
or  patchy,  or  if  you  detect  a  ridge  or  thickness  encircling  the  egg,  usually 
at  the  center,  discard  it.  Again,  the  air  cell  in  a  fresh  egg  is  always  small. 
As  the  egg  becomes  older  this  air  cell  increases  in  size.  A  few  practical 
tests  will  teach  you  the  difference,  so  that  you  can  surely  and  quickly  make 
the  proper  selection. 

INCUBATION — Keep  the  temperature  in  your  incubator  at  103  degrees 
and,  after  the  selected  eggs  have  been  kept  therein  for  seven  days,  they 
should  be  tested  by  holding  them  in  front  of  a  strong  light,  concentrating 
the  light  so  that  it  will  pass  through  the  shell.  All  eggs  which  appear  per- 
fectly clear  are  unfertile  and  should  be  discarded.  These  discarded  eggs 
can  be  saved  as  they  form  an  excellent  food  for  the  young  chicks  when  hard 
boiled.  A  fertile  egg  at  seven  days  in  the  incubator  will  show  a  dark  spot 
i;rom  which,  as  a  center,  blood  vessels  will  radiate  in  different  directions.  If, 
however,  you  discover  an  egg  containing  a  dark  spot,  around  which  is  a 
dark  circle,  discard  it  also,  as  this  is  a  dead  germ,  killed  by  the  bursting  of 
a  blood  vessel  as  a  result  of  overheat.  The  air  cell  increases  in  size  as 
the  chick  matures  until,  on  the  eighteenth  day,  it  should  occupy  nearly  one- 
third  of  the  egg  space. 

Eggs  should  be  tested  on  the  seventh  and  twelfth  days  and  all  containing 
dead  germs  should  be  removed. 

If  conditions  are  right,  chicks  should  break  the  shell  on  the  nineteenth 
day  and  the  entire  hatch  should  be  over  by  the  twenty-first  day.  After  the 
chicks  begin  to  hatch,  the  machine  shouM  be  kept  closed  until  the  chicks  are 
ready  to  remove  to  the  brooder. 

After  they  are  well  out  of  the  shell,  chicks  should  remain  in  the 
incubator  until  thoroughly  dry  and  they  become  sufficiently  strong  to  be 
removed  to  the  brooder.  This  usually  occupies  about  48  hours. 

LITTLE  CHICKS — To  hatch  the  chick  is  important;  but  to  raise  it  is 
the  problem.  There  are  two  great  enemies — disease  and  parasites.  We  have 
referred  to  the  various  digestive  troubles  which  come  from  wrong  feeding 
and  which  are  generally  grouped  under  the  name  cholera.  These  can  all  be 
successfully  treated  by  CONKEY'S  CHOLERA  REMEDY  in  the  drinking 
water  as  elsewhere  fully  described.  There  is  another  even  more  serious 
trouble  called  White  Diarrhoea.  It  shows  as  a  white  pasty  discharge  and  may 
come  on  any  time  between  the  third  and  the  twenty-first  day  of  the  hatch. 
The  gummy  substance  hardens  and  closes  the  vent.  The  disease  is  very  con - 
tageous  and  the  little  chicks  die  by  thousands  each  season — in  fact  White 
Diarrhoea  carries  off  each  year  from  60  to  75  per  cent  of  all  chicks  hatched. 
This  disease  has  long  baffled  poultrymen.  We  have  only  recently  found  a 
remedy  for  it,  CONKEY'S  WHITE  DIARRHOEA  REMEDY,  which  you 
simply  put  in  the  drinking  water  and  let  the  little  chicks  cure  themselves. 
Even  those  badly  pasted  up  behind  can  be  cured,  but  first  you  must  remove 
the  hard  accumulation.  A  drop  or  two  of  oil  will  soften  it  and  make  the 
operation  easy.  Sometimes  warm  water  is  used,  but  in  this  case  special  care 
must  be  taken  not  to  get  the  chick  wet. 

White  Diarrhoea  is  best  treated  by  preventive  measures  as  explained  under 
diseases.  Conkey's  White  Diarrhoea  remedy  can  be  relied  on.  It  is  always 
easier,  and  cheaper,  to  prevent  than  to  cure. 

Parasites  are  another  great  cause  for  the  heavy  loss  of  little  chicks.  Of 
these  lice  are  the  worst,  and  there  are  three  distinct  kinds  of  lice — head  lice, 
body  lice  and  mites.  The  head  louse  is  the  worst  of  all,  for  two  or  three  of 
these  big  f  eltows  will  fasten  on  head  or  neck  or  under  the  wings  of  the  little 
chick  and  sap  its  life  Fortunately  treatment  is  easy,  if  the  poultryman  will 

25 


simply  apply  CONKEY'S  HEAD  LICE  OINTMENT  as  directed.  The  body 
louse  is  a  different  proposition  and  must  be  treated  with  a  powder.  CON- 
KEY'S  LICE  POWDER  is  guaranteed  effective,  and  at  the  same  time  posi- 
tively will  not  injure  the  health  of  the  chick.  For  mites  it  is  necessary  to 
use  a  liquid,  spraying  it  in  cracks  and  on  roosts,  walls,  etc.,  as  explained 
page  56  on  this  subject.  Because  of  the  different  life  habits  of  these  three 
distinct  kinds  of  pests,  no  one  preparation  can  possibly  answer  for  all  three. 
Poultrymen  are  sometimes  mislead  by  advertisements  on  this  subject. 

Before  we  leave  the  subject  of  the  little  chick  we  wish  to  urge  again 
every  precaution  to  prevent  disease.  It  is  always  cheaper  and  easier  to  pre- 
vent than  to  cure.  Besides  this,  once  let  a  growing  bird  get  in  bad  shape 
the  chances  are  it  will  be  stunted  by  the  setback,  even  though  you  cure  the 
particular  disease. 

TURKEYS 

3  :• 

And  now  we  "talk  turkey !" 

.    The  common  varieties  of  turkeys  in  this  country  are  the  Bronze,  Narra- 
ganset,  Buff,  Slate,  White,  Holland,  Black  and  Bourbon  Red. 

By  far  the  most  popular  seems  to  be  the  Bronze,  which  is  a  cross  of 
the  Black  (the  English  Norfolk  turkey)  with  the  original  wild  bird  of  this 

country.  The  Bronze  turkey  is 
now  the  largest  and  hardiest  of  all 
the  varieties.  Next  to  it  in  size, 
probably  next  to  it  in  popularity 
also,  is  the  Naragansett — also  a 
cross  with  the  American  wild  tur- 
key, but  with  some  Mexican  wild 
turkey  blood  added,  giving  the 
mixture  of  white  in  the  bronze 
and  black  plumage. 

Turkey  raising  is  a  profitable  in- 
dustry. It  is  something  of  a  spe- 
cialty and  requires  a  little  differ- 
ent system  from  that  of  raising 
ordinary  domestic  fowls,  but  the  important  differences  are  few  and  easily 
mastered.  But  the  great  thing  is  to  actually  do  what's  right.  Knowing  and 
doing  are  very  different  matters. 

Turkeys  adapt  themselves  easily  to  various  climates  and  can  be  raised 
successfully  whether  you  live  far  south  in  Texas  or  north  in  Canada,  and 
thrive  equally  well  under  conditions  so  unlike  as  those  found  in  New  England 
and  in  California.  Fact  is  you  can  raise  them  any- where  if  you  (1)  start 
with  the  right  stock  and  (2)  give  the  right  care. 

The  right  stock  is  any  stock  that  is  itself  individually  strong  and  healthy. 
It  must  then  be  kept  so.  Turkey  stock  quickly  shows  bad  effects  from  in- 
breeding. The  only  way  to  keep  up  the  constitutional  vigor  of  the  birds  is 
to  introduce  new  toms,  selecting  always  vigorous  medium  sized  males  and 
mating  each  with  about  five  mature  hen  birds,  making  sure  always  that ^  the 
hens  are  also  strong  and  vigorous.  Some  successful  breeders  consider  eight 
to  twelve  hens  a  good  proportion  to  each  torn.  Pullets  do  not  lay  eggs  so 
large  as  those  laid  by  yearling  and  two  year  old  hens,  and  their  poults  are 
not  so  strong. 

26 


Illustration  No.  18.     Bronze  Turkey. 


The  right  care  means  chiefly  protecting  the  young  poults  from  cold  or 
damp,  especially  from  wet  grass  and  from  insect  vermin.  Timbered  land, 
where  there  is  not  much  underbrush,  is  the  finest  for  raising  young  poults, 
or  pasture  land,  where  the  grass  is  short,  and  there  are  plenty  of  insects  to 
be  picked  up.  A  flock  of  turkeys  would  benefit  any  farm  by  the  amount  of 
worms,  grasshoppers,  etc.,  thus  destroyed.  Right  care  includes  also  giving 
turkeys  good,  free  range.  These  birds  are  still  half  wild  and  they  will  not 
thrive  under  the  conditions  that  are  ordinarily  successful  with  domestic 
fowls.  They  grow  very  nervous  and  restless  when  too  closely  confined.  If 
you  are  in  the  business  for  profit  the  right  way  is  to  give  the  turkeys  plenty 
of  good  range,  where  they  can  get  abundant  natural  food  by  foraging  for 
themselves.  But  at  the  same  time  you  must  give  them  a  nice  grain  feed  every 
-night,  as  this  will  guarantee  their  return  home  to  roost.  Corn  is  the  best 
grain,  but  you  should  add  occasionally  some  wheat,  oats  or  peas,  as  corn 
alone  is  too  fattening.  Since  the  turkeys  will  roost  in  the  open  air,  however, 
they  can  stand  this  rich  grain,  as  it  keeps  them  warm  while  in  the  open.  The 
rule  is  to  feed  a  little  at  a  time,  but  to  feed  often.  A  grain  and  insect  diet 
suits  them  to  a  T.  The  young  poults  will  begin  to  feed  themselves  just  as 
soon  as  they  are  out  of  the  shell.  In  the  natural  state  they  live  almost  en- 
tirely on  the  insects  and  berries  they  pick  up. 

Pretty  nearly  the  whole  problem  in  turkey  raising  is  to  start  right  with 
the  poults.  For  while  the  grown  birds  are  extremely  hardy,  the  poults  are 
the  tenderest  of  all  poultry  to  care  for.  Watch  them  carefully  up  to  the 
time  when  they  get  their  first  plumage  and  "throw  the  red",  that  is  show 
their  combs.  After  that  they  are  easy  to  manage  with  the  two  main  cautions 
already  stated. 

The  young  poult  should  be  fed  the  first  two  weeks  a  crumbly  mixture 
of  bread  and  milk  and  pot  cheese,  or  curd — about  one-fourth  should  be  the 
cheese.  Add  to  this  a  litte  chopped  onion.  Two  or  three  times  a  day  give 
the  little  poults  all  of  this  they  will  eat  up  clean  and  at  least  once  a  day 
give  them  some  finely  cracked  corn,  mixed  with  wheat  and  oatmeal,  equal 
parts  by  weight.  After  the  second  week,  increase  this  grain  ration,  and 
also  give  more  of  the  pot  cheese,  cutting  down  the  bread  and  milk  in  the 
ration.  Pot  cheese  is  considered  better  than  beef  scrap  for  turkeys,  although, 
of  course,  beef  scrap  is  a  valuable  article  for  them.  Of  course,  as  they 
grow  older,  you  gradually  give  coarser  grain  and  finally  the  whole  grain. 

Grit  and  charcoal  should  be  before  them  all  the  time — this  is  always 
necessary  with  any  kind  of  poultry. 

Water  must  be  where  they  can  help  themselves,  but  it  should  be  in  a 
fount  such  as  will  protect  the  young  poults  from  getting  wet.  Turkeys 
should  always  have  a  good  supply  of  water. 

TO  FATTEN  FOR  MARKET— Give  the  turkeys  free  range,  if  pos- 
sible, else  they  will  "worry".  At  night,  give  them  all  "the  whole  corn  they 
will  eat.  In  the  morning,  give  them  a  mixture  as  follows :  Six  parts  corn- 
meal,  three  parts  middlings,  one  part  meat  scrap,  mixed  with  sour  skim 
milk.  Do  not  let  this  get  too  soft  and  sticky,  but  make  a  good  stiff  mix- 
ture. The  last  week  of  the  fattening  for  market  put  the  birds  in  darkened 
coops  and  feed  the  following  "cramming"  ration,  which  you  can  make  up 
into  pellets  and  feed  by  hand  ;  two  parts  cornmeal,  two  parts  ground  oats 
(without  hulls),  one  part  middlings,  one  part  scraps,  mix  to  a  stiff  dough  with 
sour  skim  milk  as  before. 

27 


RATION  FOR  BREEDING  SEASON— Equal  parts  by  weight  oi 
ground  oats,  cornmeal,  wheat  bran,  wheat  middlings,  meat  scrap,  mixed  with 
sour  skim  milk.  Oats  is  the  best  all  around  grain  at  breeding  time. 

During  breeding  season  turkeys  should  always  be  given  free  range  all 
day  and  allowed  to  roost  at  home  in  the  open.  They  like  high  roosts  and 
fresh  air.  Let  them  have  their  way  and  you  will  see  their  big  bodies 
looming  up  on  a  ridge  pole  or  some  high  tree  branch. 

Turkey  hens  lay  from  thirty-five  to  forty  eggs  during  the  season.  Time 
for  incubation  is  twenty-eight  days.  Some  poultrymen  use  hens  for  hatching; 
but  there  is  great  danger  from  lice  unless  extra  care  is  taken.  However, 
by  giving  the  first  clutch  to  sitting  hens  you  can  keep  the  turkeys  laying. 
Dusting  the  nest  and  hen  with  CONKEY'S  LICE  POWDER  at  frequent  in- 
tervals will  settle  that  problem.  Remember  that  lice  will  kill  a  poult  in  very 
short  time. 

Young  poults  thrive  best  on  woodland  range,  where  they  will  not  get 
tangled  in  wet  grass  and  can  pick  up  most  of  their  living.  But  if  con- 
fined, try  to  change  their  runs  from  day  to  day.  Disinfect  thoroughly, 
using  NOX-I-CIDE  to  sweeten  the  ground  and  to  thoroughly  clean  all 
utensils.  . 

DUCKS 

This  is  another  branch  of  the  poultry  industry,  which  has  not  been  fully 
appreciated.  Duck  raising  is  certainly  profitable.  Ducks  are  easier  to  manage 
than  chickens,  have  fewer  diseases  and  mature  more  quickly.  But  it  takes 

good  sense  and  proper  attention  to 
necessary  details  to  make  a  success  of 
the  business. 

Ducks  are  raised  chiefly  for  meat, 
but  their  eggs  are  a  valuable  food 
product  and  with  proper  management 
and  feeding  there  is  not  that  strong 
flavor  which  has  hitherto  been  an 
objection.  Duck  eggs  are  large  and 
they  always  command  from  five  cents 
to  ten  cents  more  per  dozen  in  the 
market.  For  cooking  they  go  about 
one-third  farther.  Ducks  commence 
laying  when  about  five  months  old. 

The    American    Standard    of    Per- 
Illustration No.  19j   Pekin Ducks  fection    recognizes    twelve    varieties: 

The  Aylesbury,  which  is  the  market 

duck  of  England,  a  slaty-white  bird,  good  laying  and  rapid  growing;  the 
Rouen,  brilliantly  colored,  marked  sometimes  like  the  original  Mallard;  the 
Pekin,  which  is  the  favorite  market  duck  of  America,  the  largest  white 
duck  in  the  world,  of  early  maturing  and  good  laying  qualities ;  the  Cayuga, 
strictly  an  American  breed,  originating  around  Lake  Cayuga,  N.  Y.  (black  in 
color);  Crested  White;  Indian  Runner,  called  the  "Leghorn  of  the  Duck  fam- 
ily" because  of  its  heavy  laying,  smaller  than  the  Pekin,  very  early  maturing 
and  growing  more  and  more  popular  in  this  country;  the  Blue  Swedish;  the 
White  Muscovy;  the  Colored  Muscovy,  the  eccentric  duck  that  never 
quacks,  and  also  having  other  little  peculiarities,  insisting  on  building  a 
nest  and  taking  an  extra  week  to  hatch;  the  Gray  Call,  used  principally  as 

2? 


decoys;  the  White  Call;  the  Black 
East  Indian— the  last  three  being 
known  as  the  "bantams  of  the  Duck 
family." 

We  should  here  give  brief  attention 
to  at  least  two  varieties — the  Pekin 
and  the  Indian  Runner,  which  are 
now  the  favorites. 

The  Pekin  duck  was  first  brought 
here  from  China  in  1873.  Pekins  are 
a  large,  early  maturing,  pure  white 
.breed.  They  are  much  liked  for  "green 
duck"  farming,  as  they  easily  weigh 
over  five  pounds  in  ten  weeks.  They 
have  proved  themselves  satisfactory 
in  every  way  and  it  is  safe  to  say 
that  more  Pekins  are  grown  for  mar-  illustration  NO.  20.  Indian  Runner  Ducks, 

ket  than  all  other  breeds  combined.  They  reach  ten  to  twelve  pounds  at 
maturity  and  are  excellent  layers.  Large  plants  in  the  East  market  many 
thousands  annually.  With  Pekins  there  is  an  additional  profit  to  consider 
in  the  feathers,  which  are  pure  white  and  command  nearly  double  price, 
especially  as  they  are  elastic  and  largely  mixed  with  down. 

The  Indian  Runner  meets  the  demand  for  a  small  carcass  and  good 
layers,  especially  winter  laying,  when  most  ducks  shirk.  Indian  Runner 
flocks  have  high  egg  averages,  as  much  as  180  to  190  eggs  per  duck.  No 
wonder  they  are  often  compared  to  Leghorns  as  layers.  The  eggs  of  the 
Indian  Runner  are  about  the  same  size  as  those  of  the  larger  breeds. 
Ducks  are  hardy,  but  the  Indian  Runner  is  perhaps  the  hardiest  of  all. 
They  do  well  under  any  ordinary  conditions  and  if  given  free  range  will 
rustle  a  good  share  of  their  living.  ^  They  feather  early  and  mature  sooner 
than  the  large  varieties.  They  weigh  about  five  and  one-half  pounds  for 
drakes,  and  ducks  one  pound  lighter.  There  are  three  distinct  varieties, 
the  Fawn-and- White,  Brown-and- White  and  White.  The  first  named  is  the 
most  beautiful,  also  the  most  popular,  and  with  their  erect  perpendicular 
carriage  fairly  represent  the  breed.  Thejr  have  long,  flat  heads,  light  fawn  in 
color,  with  straight  green  bill;  white  neck,  back  fawn  or  gray,  fawn  color 
breast,  shanks  and  feet  orange  yellow.  They  are  mighty  good  to  look  at  and 
just  as  good  to  eat. 

DUCK  RAISING — Start  always  with  good  breeds  and  fine,  vigorous 
specimens  of  your  chosen  breed.  The  breeding  stock  should  be  selected  from 
the  early  hatches,  as  ducks  will  lay  about  two  months  before  the  drakes 
are  fit  to  use  for  breeding.  At  the  beginning  of  the  breeding  season  mate  the 
drake  with  from  five  to  eight  ducks.  Later  in  the  season  you  can  increase 
this  number  to  ten  or  twelve.  During  the  breeding  season  water  is  an 
advantage,  but  is  not  really  necessary.  In  raising  ducks  for  market  it.  is 
an  advantage  to  keep  away  from  pools,  etc.,  as  the  ducks  will  fatten  more 
quickly  Young  ducks  can  be  fitted  for  market  as  "green  ducks"  in  nine 
to  eleven  weeks,  weighing  easily  five  to  six  pounds.  You  will  read  many 
glowing  accounts  of  ducks  weighing  up  to  nine  pounds,  but  we  make  the 
general  estimate  lower. 

You  can  easily  tell  the  sex  of  the  young  by  noting  the  long  bill,  neck 
and  body  of  the  drake,  and  the  more  up'right  carriage  of  the  body.  At  two 
months  you  can  easily  tell  the  duck  by  the  coarse  quack,  whereas  the  drake 
has  a  fine  rasping  note.^  As  the  drakes  mature  you  will  note  the  curled  tail 
feathers,  which  are  easily  distinguishable. 

29 


HOUSING— Ducks  can  be  housed  more  cheaply  than  chickens.  The 
only  thing  is  to  keep  them  dry  as  possible.  Cold  and  snow  they  don't  mind 
until  they  ''get  cold  feet."  Cold  feet  stop  egg  production  instantly.  The 
other  important  thing  about  housing  is  to  have  a  rat  proof  floor.  Keep  the 
litter  on  the  floor  reasonably  clean,  as  they  will  "roost"  on  the  floor. 

Water  should  be  where  they  can  get  at  it  day  or  night  for  drinking. 
They  need  plenty  of  water  inside,  but  for  practical  management  the  less  they 
have  to  dabble  and  play  in  the  better,  as  it  uses  up  their  fattening  energies 
and  makes  extra  work  in  tending,  as  they  will  be  sure  to  slop  water  over 
the  floor  and  get  it  unfit  for  their  own  use. 

FEEDING— The  Duck  has  no  crop,  hence  cannot  stand  much  hard 
grain,  but  should  be  given  mash  feed.  Ducks  are  heavy  eaters,  can  be 
crowded' for  market,  but  of  course  there  is  a  limit.  Feed  all  they  will  eat 
up  clean.  Never  leave  stale  food  around  to  become  filthy  and  fermented 
and  thus  a  source  of  disease.  In  a  state  of_  nature  they  would  naturally  feed 
on  watergrass  and  roots  and  low  forms  of  animal  life.  Always  give  them 
some  green  food  unless  they  are  on  range.  Feed  about  as  follows: 

As  with  chickens,  do  not  attempt  to  feed  the  new  hatch  before  36  or 
even  48  hours,  but  let  the  little  birds  fully  absorb  the  yolk.  Then  give  two- 
thirds  part  wheat  bran  to  one-third  part  cornmeal,  moistening  to  a  crumbly 
mass  with  a  little  water  or  milk.  Mix  in  one  raw  egg  with  each  quart,  and 
also  mix  in  a  little  sand  or  fine  grit.  Keep  this  before  them  for  48  hours, 
watching  to  see  that  it  does  not  get  stale,  that  is,  renewing  as  necessary. 
Give  them  clean  water  to  drink  in  a  fountain  such  that  they  can  wet  their 
bills  and  heads  but  can't  get  their  bodies  in  the  drinking  water. 

At  one  week:  Give  three  parts  wheat  bran,  two  parts  cornmeal,  with 
akout  five  percent  of  beef  scrap.  Keep  changing  above  so  as  to  have  equal 
parts  wheat  bran  and  cornmeal  at  six  weeks,  with  about  fifteen  per  cent  beef 
scrap.  With  this  feeding  the  ducks  will  be  ready  for  market  at  ten  weeks. 
Watch  the  beef  scrap  and  reduce  the  amount  if  the  bowels  seem  affected. 
They  certainly  like  green  feed,  but  much  will  tend  to  make  the  skin  yellow, 
and  the  market  demands  white.  Wheat  is  fine  for  giving  this  white  skin 
and  beside  it  makes  good  strong  bones. 

The  feeding  trough  should  be  plenty  long  so  all  can  feed  at  once.  Feed 
just  as  much  as  they  will  eat  up  clean  in  15  or  20  minutes  is  a  good  prac- 
tical rule  to  follow.  Let  us  repeat  again,  never  leave  food  around  in  trough 
or  yard  to  become  'foul  and  cause  disease. 

Breeding  stock  are  best  given  free  range  during  the  day,  starting  them 
out  after  a  scant  breakfast  so  that  they  will  be  sure  to  exercise  well  in 
foraging.  For  this  morning  feed  give  largely  bran  with  a  little  cornmeal. 
Feed  about  the  same  at  evening.  A  good  formula  is  as  follows:  Three 
parts  wheat  bran,  one  part  low  grade  flour,  one  part  cornmeal.  Add  about 
five  per  cent  beef  scrap,  three  per  cent  grit.  Provide  them  with  finely  shredded 
corn  fodder,  or  clover  or  oat  fodder. 

Laying  stock  will  make  good  returns  on  the  following  ration:  Equal 
parts  cornmeal,  wheat  bran  and  low  grade  flour.  To  this  add  one-fourth  the 
bulk  of  cooked  vegetables  such  as  potatoes,  turnips,  etc.  Mix  in  beef  scrap, 
about  twelve  per  cent.  Mix  with  a  little  cold  water  to  a  crumbly  feed.  An- 
other laying  ration  is  as  follows:  Three  parts  cornmeal,  two  parts  wheat 
bran,  one  part  red  dog  or  other  low  grade  flour,  one  part  cut  alfalfa  clover 
or  cut  vegetables,  one  part  beef  scrap.  Mix  to  a  crumbly  mass  with  milk 
or  cold  water.  Either  of  these  can  be  used  twice  a  day  with  a  lunch  feed 
of  a  little  corn,  wheat  and  oats  at  noon.  Of  course,  keep  grit  and  ground 
oyster  shell  before  them  all  the  time.  Also  plenty  of  water,  as  ducks  wash 
down  their  food  with  water. 

Usually  the  flocks  are  brought  in  from  range  the  last  of  November  or 

30 


early  in  December,  then  put  on  laying  ration  and  commence  egg  production 
in  about  three  weeks  after  housing.  As  would  be  expected,  the  first  eggs  are 
more  liable  to  be  infertile.  For  hatching,  the  eggs  should  not  be  trusted  to 
the  ducks,  as  they  are  inclined  to  be  unreliable.  Where  most  convenient 
hens  can  be  used  for  hatching  and  brooding,  but  on  a  large  scale  the  best 
way  of  course  is  to  use  incubators  and  brooders.  Eggs  will  require  28  days 
for  hatching. 

GEESE 

There  are  many  places  on  the  average  farm  that  are  not  suitable  for 
cultivation  or  for  the  raising  of  chickens,  that  could  be  profitably  utilized  for 
a  goose  pasture.  Low,  swampy  places  can  be  used  provided  there  is  also 
some  high  ground. 

Goose  culture  requires  less  capital  than  any  other  branch  of  the  poultry 
business,  as  very  little  housing  is  necessary  and  they  are  turned  onto  the 
land  very  much  like  cattle.  A  rough  shelter  free  from  extreme  drafts  should 
be  provided  and  a  deep  litter  kept  on  the  ground  inside.  The  quarters  should 
be  kept  reasonably  clean,  for  although  they  will  stand  more  filth  and  neglect 
than  chickens  it  is  not  the  proper  way  to  care  for  them  and  good  results 
cannot  be  obtained  without  considering  the  health  of  the  flock. 

Mating  usually  takes  place  some  time  in  February  and  after  the  fowls 
have  been  penned  together  for  a  week  or  ten  days  it  is  not  necessary  to 
keep  the  various  pens  separate.  Once  the  family  ties  are  firmly  established 
they  will  be  lived  up  to  during  the  entire  season.  Two  or  three  females  are 
all  that  should  be  mated  to  a  male. 

Geese  are  long-lived  and  ten-year-old  birds  are  quite  common.  Fe- 
males of  three  years  or  over  are  the  best  for  breeding  purposes  and  their 
usefulness  continues  throughout  their  entire  life.  Young  ganders  are  more 
desirable  for  breeders  because  of  their  activity.  Old  ganders  also  get  quar- 
relsome with  age. 

There  is  a  difference  of  opinion  as  to  which  is  the  best  breed  of  geese, 
but  the  Toulouse,  Embden  and  African  are  the  most  popular  for  general 

purposes. 

A  goose  will  lay  from  twelve  to  twenty  eggs  before  becoming  broody, 

but  twelve  is   about  the  right  number   for  a   setting   for   the   best   results. 

Twenty-eight  days  are  necessary  for 

incubation. 

If    goslings    are     well     hatched 

little  difficulty  will  be  experienced  in 

raising    them.      They    can    be    given 

about  the  same  feed  as  little  chicks, 

with   the   exception   that  green    food 

such  as   fine  cut  grass   or  vegetable 

matter  should  be  given  several  times 

a  day  after  the  first  day. 

The    old    goose    should   be    kept 

in  a  coop  and  the  goslings  allowed  to 

run  about.    After  a  month  they  can 

be   let   out   to   range   and   very   little 

attention  will  be  necessary.    They  are 

very  light  eaters  and  if  the  pasture  is 

good  only  a  little  other  food  will  be  illustration  NO.  21. 

needed.    A  good  mash  feed  for  them 

is    made    by    mixing    two    parts    of 

bran  with  one  of  cornmeal.    A  vari- 
ety of  vegetables  such  as  beets,  potatoes,  turnips,  cabbage,  etc.,  should  be 

given  them. 

31 


Because  of  their  rapid  growth  and  the  small  quantity  of  grain  they  con- 
sume geese  will  be  found  one  of  the  most  profitable  kind  of  =tock  that  can 
be  kept  on  the  farm. 

POULTRY  DISEASES 

The  diseases  of  poultry  are  much  the  same  as  those  of  the  human  family. 
Not  only  that,  but  the  causes  are  about  the  same.  They  can  be  traced  to 
unsanitary  conditions,  improper  feeding,  impure  drinking  water,  or  exposure. 

The  continuous  feeding  of  strong  carbonaceous  foods,  or  feeding  too 
much  of  one  kind  of  food,_  or  a  lack  of  animal  food,  or  green  foods  in  the 
winter,  and  then  in  the  spring  eating  too  heavily  of  grass,  etc.,  all  contribute 
to  poultry  disease.  Impure  water  is  also  a  frequent  factor.  To  the  above 
causes  may  often  be  traced  Indigestion,  Crop-bound  and  Cholera.  If  fowls 
are  forced  to  roost  in  crowded  quarters,  they  are  chilled  when  they  go  out 
in  the  morning  and  colds  ensue  which,  in  turn,  cause  Roup,  the  scourge  of 
the  poultry  yard.  Another  source  of  disease  is  lice — the  greatest  of  all 
causes  of  trouble.  They  soon  deplete  the  vitality  of  the  fowls,  making  them 
susceptible  to  colds  and  other  forms  of  disease.  This  is  particularly  notice- 
able at  moulting  time. 

It  would  be  folly  for  us  to  go  on  and  tell  you  how  to  cure  disease  before 
stating  that  very  much  can  be  done  in  the  way  of  prevention.  It  is  so 
much  easier  to  prevent  than  it  is  to  cure  that  we  call  your  attention  to  our 
article  on  NOX-I-CIDE,  the  fo*  of  germ  life,  on  page  71  of  this  book. 

Diseases  of  the  Respiratory  Organs 

ROUP 

Nearly  every  poultryman  has  had  experience  with  this  most  dreaded 
disease.  The  ravages  of  Roup  often  amount  to  an  epidemic.  In  such  cases 
it  is  cften  termed  "Cholera"  for,  among  the  larger  number  of  poultry  raisers, 
any  dangerous  disease  is  called  "Cholera"  when,  in  truth,  there  is  but  one 
similarity  between  the  two  diseases  which  is  that  either  is  pretty  sure  to 
terminate  fatally  if  left  to  itself^  While  Roup  may  occur  at  any  season  of 
the  year,  it  is  most  common  during  the  late  fall  months,  early  winter,  and 
the  frosty  days  of  spring. 

CAUSE— Roup  generally  gets  its 
sstart  with  a  cold  which  may  be  con- 
tracted in  various  ways,  such  as  ex- 
posure to  cold  rains  or  disagreeable 
weather ;  by  drafts  of  air  blowing  direct- 
ly on  the  roosts;  through  improperly 
constructed  or  poorly  maintained  houses ; 
or  the  evils  of  overcrowding.  Where 
fowls  or  young  chicks  are  allowed  to 
overcrowd  at  night  they  become  heated 
and  then,  when  they  go  out  in  the  chill 
of  the  morning,  they  catch  a  cold  which 
soon  develops  into  Roup.  This  disease 
is  also  hastened  by  accumulations  of 
filth  in  and  about  the  poultry  houses,  as 
this  condition  promotes  all  classes  of 
disease.  Lack  of  proper  ventilation  is 
another  great  cause  of  Roup  The  foul 

32 


Illustration    No.    20. 
Fowl  with  Roup, 


air  cannot  escape  and  the  moisture  from  the  breathing  of  the  birds  condenses 
on  walls,  etc.,  then  freezes  or  "frosts"  as  already  described. 

According  to  scientific  authorities,  there  are  varied  groups  of  diseases 
commonly  known  as  Roup.  It  is  very  likely  that  Roup  cannot  originate  from 
a  cold  without  its  specific  germ  being  present.  But  for  all  practical  purposes, 
and  for  all  logical  prevention,  treatment  and  cure,  they  can  be  considered 
identical  until  such  time  as  their  development  advances  to  a  point  where 
they  may  readily  be  identified  by  the  ordinary  poultryman. 

Many  people  who  have  houses  constructed  on  the  most  approved  plans, 
and  whose  fowls  are  given  the  best  possible  attention,  have  trouble  with 
Roup  among  their  fowls  and  are  unable  to  trace  the  cause. 

Roup  is  one  of  the  most  infectious  diseases  and  can  be  communicated  in 
various  ways.  One  of  the  most  common  is  by  new  stock  from  infected  yards, 
or  by  the  use  of  some  infected  coop  or  utensil.  It  is  frequently  contracted  in 
the  show-room  from  other  birds,  or  from  infection  clinging  to  appliances  of 
various  sorts. 

When  the  infected  matter  from  the  diseased  fowl  dries,  the  germs  may 
be  carried  and  scattered  by  the  wind  and  thus  spread  the  disease.  Poultry- 
men  do  not  always  think  of  this  and  are  unable  to  understand  its  occurrence 
in  their  flock,  or  its  transmission  from  one  portion  of  the  flock  to  another. 
Many  times  fowls  will  have  the  Roup  without  any  indication  of  a  preliminary 
cold.  This  is  explained  by  the  fact  that  Roup  is  a  germ  disease ;  these  germs 
live  on  and  within  the  mucous  membrane  of  the  throat  and  head  passages; 
the  infected  fowls  are  continually  throwing  off  these  germs  and,  as  they 
dry,  they  are  carried  in  the  air  and  may  lodge  in  the  nostrils  when  the  fowl 
breathes,  or  they  may  lodge  in  the  eye  and  multiply  from  that  point,  which 
explains  the  frequent  watering  of  the  eye  and  the  absence  of  every  other 
well-known  symptom  so  common  to  this  disease. 

SYMPTOMS — Unless  contracted  from  the  dry  germs  in  the  air,  as 
mentioned  above,  the  first  symptom  is  that  of  a  slight  cold,  the  bird  sneez- 
ing, gasping,  or  wheezing,  and  repeatedly  rubbing  its  head  on  its  plumage. 
The  fowl  loses  appetite  and  shows  a  disposition  to  keep  away  from  its 
fellows.  You  will  likely  notice  it  moping  in  some  dark  corner  with 
ruffled  feathers.  There  is  a  watery  discharge  from  the  nostrils  and  the 
corners  of  the  eyes,  and  soon  the  nostrils  become  closed.  Development 
is  more  or  less  rapid.  The  upper  parts  of  the  mouth  and  throat  may  fill 
with  a  hard,  cheesy  matter  of  very  offensive  odor  (the  "roup  smell");  the 
head  and  eyes  are  usually  swollen,  and  the  comb  turns  dark;  there  is  high 
fever,  the  bird  becomes  emaciated  and  listless  and  in  many  instances, 
unconscious.  Altogether  the  roupy  bird  presents  a  most  miserable  appear- 
ance, and  it  is  not  long  before  it  dies.  > 

TREATMENT— The  first  thing  to  do  is  to  separate  the  sick  from  the 
healthy  fowls.  The  logical  plan  is  to  remove  the  healthy  fowls  as  the  old 
quarters  have  been  contaminated  to  a  greater  or  less  extent.  Inasmuch  as 
this  is  usually  impracticable,  remove  the  sick  birds  to  clean,  dry  quarters. 
The  old  quarters  should  then  be  thoroughly  disinfected  with  a  solution  of 
CONKEY'S  NOX-I-CIDE  according  to  directions.  Then,  in  all  the  drinking 
water,  place  CONKEY'S  ROUP  REM'EDY  for  a  week,  excluding  all  other 
water.  This  should  at  once  check  the  progress  of  the  disease  among  the 
balance  of  the  flock. 

Roup  is  characterized  by  considerable  fever  which  induces  thirst  and 
causes  the  bird  to  seek  relief  in  excessive  drinking.  With  CONKEY'S 
ROUP  REMEDY  in  the  drinking 'water  as  directed,  the  fowl  takes  its  own 
medicine  without  any  effort  on  your  part.  A  measureful  in  the  drinking 


water  and  the  fowls  cure  themselves.    The  measure  referred  to  comes  in 
the  package  and  holds  about  as  much  as  a  lady's  thimble. 

If  the  disease  has  become  so  advanced  that  the  fowls  cannot  see  to 
drink,  or  the  head  passages  so  choked  that  the  bird  swallows  with 
difficulty,  you  can  use  a  warm  solution  of  the  remedy  and  duck  the 
fowl's  head  beneath  the  surface  for  a  moment.  Its  struggles  to  breathe 
will  carry  the  fluid  directly  to  the  seat  of  the  disease.  Of  course,  take 
care  not  to  strangle;  and  in  cold  weather  do  not  attempt  this  operation 
unless  you  can  properly  care  for  the  fowls  afterwards  in  a  warm  room, 
to  prevent  catching  cold. 

CONKEY'S  ROUP  REMEDY  is  a  carefully  compounded  prepara- 
tion. Coming  in  contact  with  the  membranes  of  the  throat  and  mouth, 
the  seat  of  the  disease,  it  kills  the  germs  which  are  so 
rapidly  multiplying.  It  is  quickly  taken  up  by  the  system 
and  being  a  strong  tonic,  builds  up  the  system,  and  assists 
nature  in  every  possible  manner  to  throw  off  the  disease. 

OUR  GUARANTEE— So  positive  are  we  of  the  cura- 
tive powers  of  this  remedy  that  we  sell  it  to  you  with  the 
understanding  that  if  it  should  fail  to  please  you  YOUR 
MONEY  WILL  BE  REFUNDED.  This  will  be  done 
cheerfully!  Any  poultryman  can  tell  you  of  our  standing 
and  ability  to  do  just  what  we  say. 

WORTHLESS    IMITATIONS— Every  successful  firm 

_ will  have  its  "trailers"  and  we  are  no  exception  to  this  rule. 

Illustration  There  have  sprung  up,  here  and  there,  a  number  of  imita- 
No.  21.  tors  of  Conkey's  remedy.  Not  only  have  these  people  and 
firms  tried  to  imitate  the  contents  of  our  package,  but 
have  put  their  goods  up  in  the  same  kind  of  boxes  and  have  imitated  our 
label  until  we  have  been  compelled  to  change  our  label  to  the  style  of 
our  illustration  No.  21  on  this  page.  They  are  not  affecting  our  business 
to  any  extent,  the  name  of  CONKEY  is  too  well  established.  We  men- 
tion this  for  the  purpose  of  protecting  the  beginner  or  the  one  who  has 
not  heretofore  used  our  goods.  When  you  order  insist  on  CONKEY'S. 
If  your  dealer  cannot  supply  you,  send  the  order  direct  to  us  and  you 
will  receive  the  goods  by  return  mail.  (See  CONKEY'S  ROUP 
REMEDY,  page  65.) 

PREVENTION— Much  can  be  done  in  the  way  of  prevention.  The 
freqent  spraying  of  CONKEY'S  NOX-I-CIDE  in  and  around  the  houses, 
etc.,  and  the  washing  of  utensils  with  a  solution^  of  the  NOX-I-CIDE  will 
be  found  very  beneficial.  It  will  prevent  other  diseases  as  well.  If  at  least 
once  a  week  CONKEY'S  ROUP  REMEDY  is  placed  in  the  drinking  water 
according  to  the  directions  for  prevention,  it  will  be  found  valuable  for 
warding  off  Roup  in  all  its  forms. 

PRECAUTION— ROUP  COMES  SUDDENLY  AND  UNEXPECT- 
EDLY AND  DOES  ITS  DAMAGE  QUICKLY.  Do  not  wait  until  your 
flock  is  down,  and  then  have  to  wait  again  until  you  can  send  and  procure 
the  remedy,  but  order  CONKEY'S  ROUP  REMEDY  now  and  have  it  right 
at  hand.  It  is  AN  EXCELLENT  INSURANCE  against  the  ravages  of  the 
worst  disease  known  to  poultrymen.  If  at  the  first  appearance  of  this  dis- 
ease the  remedy  can  be  given  at  once  your  fowls  will  be  restored  to  health 
in  short  time  and  without  spreading  it  to  the  others.  There  need  be  no  cause 
for  alarm  if  you  are  provided  for  the  emergency.  It  is  only  when  the  disease 
becomes  deep-seated,  and  your  yards  have  become  thoroughly  infected,  that 
there  is  great  danger. 

34 


COLD  AND  ROUP  IN  TURKEYS  AND  CANKER 
IN  PIGEONS 

•The  most  effective  treatment  of  these  ailments  will  be  found  in  CON- 
KEY'S  ROUP  REMEDY.  No  one  who  raises  Turkeys  or  Pigeons  can 
afford  to  be  without  it.  See  page  36  on  Canker. 

CATARRH 

This  is  an  aggravated  form  of  cold — an  inflammation  of  the  mucous 
membrane.  Some  make  quite  a  distinction,  technically,  between  Catarrh 
and  Roup,  but  we  class  them  under  the  same  heading.  Certainly  the  method 
of  treatment  applies  equally  well  to  either.  CONKEY'S  ROUP  REMEDY 
will  do  the  work  and  do  it  quickly. 

DIPHTHERIA  OR  DIPHTHERITIC  ROUP 

There  is  a  great  difference  of  opinion  as  to  whether  this  disease  is  a 
result  of  Roup  or  of  a  specific  germ  of  its  own.  We  might  enter  into  a 
lengthy  discussion  of  this  matter  and  give  you  the  results  of  our  most  careful 
study  and  observation,  but  it  would  represent  nothing  of  practical  value  to 
the  poultryman,  and  this  book  is  written  for  practical  purposes  only. 

SYMPTOMS — This  form  of  disease  is  marked  by  acute  inflammation 
of  the  mucous  membrane  of  the  head  passages,  that  is,  the  mouth,  throat, 
nasal  passages  and  eyes.  The  mouth  and  throat  are  covered  with  yellow- 
ish gray  patches  which  form  a  coating  so  thick  and  of  such  strength,  as  to 
seem  like  a  new  membrane.  The  word  Diphtheria  means  soft  leather, 
and  it  is  an  excellent  description  of  the  false  membrane  appearing  in  this 
disease.  When  this  matter  is  removed  or  torn  away,  a  raw  bleeding  sur- 
face is  left.  "While  the  germ  is  not  the  same,  this  disease  resembles  human 
diphtheria,  and  it  is  said,  there  have  been  instances  of  the  contraction  of 
a  light  form  of  diphtheria  by  children  from  fowls  so  suffering,  and  that 
fowls  have  been  also  known  to  have  contracted  human  diphtheria.  It  will, 
therefore,  be  understood  to  be  exceedingly  contagious  and  dangerous. 
It  not  only  attacks  chickens,  but  Turkeys,  Pigeons,  Ducks,  and  many 
other  fowls.  Its  early  symptoms  are  the  same  as  Catarrh  and  Roup. 

TREATMENT— In  very  many  cases  of  this  nature,  CONKEY'S  ROUP 
REMEDY  has  been  found  most  excellent.  "It  is  a  very  dangerous  disease 
and  its  prevention  should  be  sought  by  the  liberal  use  of  CONKEY'S  NOX- 
I-CIDE.  It  may  be  used  in  the  same  manner  as  described  for  prevention 
of  Roup. 

PIP  • 

Pip  is  a  hardening  of  the  mucous  membrane  of  the  mouth,  particularly 
of  the  tip  of  the  tongue.  It  is  caused  by  constant  forced  breathing  through 
the  mouth  through  the  presence  of  Roup,  Cold,  etc.,  which  have  closed  the 
nasal  passages.  The  only  possible  cure  is  by  removing  the  cause— that  is 
by  treating  as  described  for  Roup  or  whatever  disease  causes  it.  DO 
NOT  REMOVE  THE  HARDENED  TIP  ON  END  OF  TONGUE— it  is 
a  part  of  the  tongue.  Apply  daily  to  the  hardened  tip  a  little  of  CONKEY'S 
HEALING  SALVE  and  give  the  ROUP  REMEDY  according  to  directions. 

35 


CANKER 

This  is  an  ulcerative  catarrh  of  the  mouth,  which  is  often  found  in 
connection  with  a  bad  case  of  roup  or  chicken  pox  (sorehead).  It  is  a 
common  disease  of  pigeons,  in  some  forms  resembling  Aspergillosis, 
described  on  page  51. 

CAUSE — Neglected  cold  or  roup;  in  pigeons  a  common  cause  is  too 
constant  feeding  of  corn,  or  use  of  dusty  or  musty  grain  or  litter.  See 
Aspergillosis,  often  taken  for  canker. 

SYMPTOMS — Difficulty  in  swallowing,  with  attempts  to  swallow  as 
though  there  were  some  grain  or  other  substance  lodged  in  the  throat. 
The  nerk  sometimes  has  the  appearance  of  being  stiff.  White  spots 
^<->near  on  the  membrane  of  the  mouth.  In  some  cases  there  are  cheesy 
growths  about  the  mouth,  side  of  tongue,  base  of  bill,  and  at  times  this 
formation  extends  to  the  windpipe. 

TREATMENT — When  given  according  to  directions,  CONKEY'S 
ROUP  REMEDY  is  the  most  valuable  remedy  known  for  this  disease. 

.TUBERCULOSIS 

Fortunately  for  the  poultryman,  this  disease  is  not  very  common.  Its 
symptoms  are  so  much  the  same  as  those  of  Consumption,  and  trie  treatment 
is  so  nearly  identical  that  we  will  treat  them  as  one  in  this  article. 

SYMPTOMS — Lack  9f  life,  emaciation  with  indications  of  indigestion 
but  there  is  in  Tuberculosis  a  decided  rise  in  temperature  and,  during  the 
last  stages,  violent  diarrhoea.  It  is  not  possible  to  outline  the  symptoms  so 
surely  that  you  can  absolutely  rely  upon  them  in  diagnosing  the  disease.  It 
is  a  germ  ^  disease,  and  a  bacteriologist  only  could  give  a  definite  opinion 
after  examination,  but  this  is  not  possible  or  practical  for  many  poultrymen. 
A  post  mortem  examination  will  usually  reveal  tubercules  and  nodules 
throughout  the  liver  and  covering  many  of  the  internal  membranes.  When, 
(however,  you  find  any  of  the  fowls  "going  light,"  as  it  is  called,  that  is 
showing  rapid  and  extreme  emaciation,  with  the  above  symptoms,  take  no 
cnances,  but  kill  them  at  once. 

(As  the  majority  of  cases  of  Going  Light  result  from  Tuberculosis,  we 
have  used  the  term  in  this  connection,  but  there  are  also  cases  of  Going  Light 
from  othen  causes.  Sometimes  fowls  with  voracious  appetites  will  go  light 
through  a  specific  germ  for  which  no  remedy  is  known  and  others  will 
go  light  from  indigestion  which  is  not  difficult  of  treatment,  and  such  cases 
without  evidence  of  other  symptoms,  can  be  treated  as  for  Indigestion.) 

CAUSE — As  stated  before,  Tuberculosis  is  a  germ  disease  and  is  highly 
contagious.  It  is  usually  communicated  through  contact  with  birds  which 
have  it.  Some  maintain  that  it  can  be  contracted  from  human  beings,  or 
from  cattle  that  are  suffering  from  Tuberculosis.  In  any  event  it  is  best 
to  provide  against  such  a  possibility.  There  is  no  question  but  that 
strong,  vigorous  stock  are  seldom  troubled  with  it,  and  that  maintaining 
a  high  standard  of  health  is  the  best  known  safeguard. 

TREATMENT— Kill  all  which  show  any  symptoms  and  burn  and 
bury  the  ashes.  Remove  the  balance  of  the  flock  to  new  quarters  and, 
with  a  sprayer  or  sprinkling  can,  disinfect  everything  that  the  fowls  have 
come  in  contact  with,  using  a  solution  of  CONKEY'S  NOX-I-CIDE,  two 
parts  NOX-I-CIDE  to  one  hundred  of  water.  Go  over  houses,  runs,  roosts, 
utensils,  EVERYTHING,  once  a  day  for  a  while.  Fowls  can  then  go  back 
to  old  quarters.  CONKEY'S  POULTRY  TONIC  should  be  given  in  their 
daily  mash.  If  this  were  g;ven  occasionally  as  a  tonic,  there  would  be  but 
little  cause  for  alarm  over  this  trouble 

36 


INFLUENZA 

Influenza,  "Epizootic,"  or  Grippe  is  a  contagious,  catarrhal  disease  dis- 
tinct from  Roup,  although  it  often  appears  with  Roup.  Its  common  form 
is  like  a  Roupy  cold  and  has  the  Roupy  smell,  with  or  without  Diarrhoea. 
It  may  well  be  classed  as  Roup  for  all  practical  purposes,  as  the  cause, 
symptoms,  and  treatment  are  the  same. 

SWELLED  HEAD 

Swelled  Head  is  generally  an  after-effect  of  Roup  and  its  kindred 
diseases;  but  fowls  may  be  found  with  hot  and  swollen  heads  without 
having  had  any  severe  case  of  Roup  or  Cold. 

SYMPTOMS — Swelling  of  head  with  more  or  less  closing  of  eyes, 
etc. 

TREATMENT — Same  as  for  Roup.  Sometimes  it  may  be  necessary 
to  lance  in  order  to  remove  the  pus,  while  hot  applications  of  one  meas- 
ureful  of  Roup  Remedy  to  one  quart  of  water  will  help  to  clear  away 
the  pus. 

In  any  case  of  Roup  and  the  diseases  that  may  be  classed  with  it, 
there  is  a  liability  of  the  fowl  dying  from  starvation  when  the  disease 
advances  to  a  point  where  it  is  difficult  for  the  bird  to  swallqw.  A  good, 
strong  beef  broth  will  often  tempt  an  affected  fowl,  but,  if  not,  make  it 
take  several  teaspopnfuls  three  times  a  day,  and  it  will  be  found  so 
strengthening  that  it  will  often  save  a  valuable  bird  when  other  food 
entirely  fails. 

BRONCHITIS 

Bronchitis  is  caused  by  a  cold,  by  sudden  changes  in  temperature,  by 
damp  quarters,  etc.,  and  is  often  mistaken  for  Roup.  It  is  also  frequently 
caused  by  breathing  particles  of  dust,  lime,  or  other  foreign  substance. 
Unlike  Roup,  Bronchitis  is  an  inflammation  of  the  membranes  of  the 
bronchial  tubes,  instead  of  the  nostril  and  head  passages.  Filthy  quarters 
and  the  breathing  of  foul  air  should  be  especially  avoided  in  such  cases. 

SYMPTOMS — Loss  of  appetite,  and  quick  breathing  and  coughing. 
A  peculiar  whistling  sound  may  accompany  the  breathing,  which  changes 
to  a  decided  rattling  in  later  stages.  Bronchitis  should  not  be  confounded 
with  Roup,  which  is  indicated  by  running  at  the  eyes,  nose,  etc.  The 
two  diseases  require  entirely  distinct  remedies  and  treatment. 

TREATMENT— Give  CONKEY'S  BRONCHITIS  REMEDY  ac- 
cording to  directions  and  as  early  as  possible. 

CONGESTION  OF  THE  LUNGS 

This  is  caused  by  the  sudden  chilling  of  the  surface  of  the  fowls' 
bodies  and  is  due  to  exposure  of  various  kinds.  It  is  more  frequently 
found  in  brooder  chicks  and  fowls  in  run-down  condition,  when  their 
strength  is  not  up  to  standard  and  their  bodies  are  not  in  condition  to 
protect  them  from  the  cold. 

SYMPTOMS— Stupor  and  lack  of  life,  accompanied  by  difficult  and 
rapid  breathing.  The  comb  may  turn  dark  and  blood-tinged  mucus  may 
be  discharged  from  the  mouth.  The  disease  appears  without  much  warn- 
ing and  may  quickly  cause  death. 

TREATMENT— Owing  to  the  fact  that  this  disease  is  so  quickly 
fatal,  there  is  nothing  that  can  be  done  to  cure  it.  The  prevention  should 
be  given  all  your  thought.  See  that  all  fowls,  and  especially  moulting  fowls, 

37 


are  given  dry,  warm  quarters  and  provided  with  plenty  of  food,  properly 
proportioned.  Moulting  fowls  should  have  all  the  animal-  food  that  they 
will  eat.  CONKEY'S  POULTRY  TONIC  in  the  mash  will  be  found  of 
great  value  as  a  preventive. 

PNEUMONIA 

This    may    result    from    Congestion    of    the    Lungs    and    should    be 
treated  in  the  same  manner. 

GAPES 

Perhaps  no  subject  among  the  diseases  of  poultry  has  excited  more 
interest  or  caused  more  argument  than  Gapes.    It  is  one  of  the  most  common 

diseases,  though  it  has  baffled  the  best 
treatment  for  years.  This  was  be- 
cause the  ailment  was  not  thoroughly 
understood  and,  again,  because  the 
trouble  was  in  the  windpipe — a  dif- 
ficult place  to  reach  with  ordinary 
remedies.  It  was  not  until  very  lately 
that  an  effective  remedy  was  found. 


CAUSE— The  Gape  Worm  (Syn- 
gamus  Trachealis)  a  parasite  affect- 
ing poultry,  usually  confines  itself  to 
young  chicks.  The  chick  acquires 
the  gape  worm  either  through  in- 
fected drinking  water,  or  from  eat- 
ing angle  worms,  or  from  picking 
gape  worms  from  the  ground,  etc., 
Illustration  No.  22.  where  other  chicks  have  coughed 

Chicken  with  Gapes.  them  up.    Gape  worms  are,  originally, 

a  parsite  of  the  common  earth  worm  and  these  earth  worms,  in  an  affected 
area,  carry  the  embryos  in  their  bodies.  The  best  way  is  for  the  poultryman 
to  keep  all  little  chicks  off  such  "gapy  ground." 

During  the  time  that  the  gape  worms  are  drawing 
their  sustenance  from  the  chick,'  the  chick  itself  is  los- 
ing its  vitality  and  strength,  just  at  the  time  when  this  is 
most  needed  to  produce  a  strong,  healthy  fowl.  If  the  gape 
worms  gather  to  any  great  extent  in  the  windpipe  as  they 
mature,  the  windpipe  becomes  filled  with  their  bodies  and 
the  chick  chokes  to  death.  Of  course,  many  chicks  have 
the  Gapes  and  do  not  die,  but  this  is  probably  due  more 
to  the  lack  of  number  of  worms  than  to  anything  else. 
Gape  Worms  do  not  multiply  in  the  windpipe  as  the  eggs, 
or  embryos,  go  to  the  ground  before  hatching,  and  it  is 
only  the  acquired  worms  that  bother  the  chicks. 

SYMPTOMS— This    disease    first    shows    as    a    slight 
cough ;  then,  as  the  irritation  becomes  more  acute,  and  the 
worms  grow  larger,  it  causes  the  gaping  which  gives  the 
disease  its  name.    This  is  usually  accompanied  by  more  or 
less  sneezing,  difficulty  in  swallowing,  breathing,  etc.     In- 
asmuch as  the  symptoms  of  this  disease  are  very  much 
like  those  of  Bronchitis  and   Pneumonia,  you  should  be 
Trachea  showing    absolutely  certain  of  the  presence  of  Gapes  before  start- 
Gape  Worm, 

38 


Illustration 
No.   23. 


ing  to  treat  the  fowls.  This  is  best  learned  by  examining  the  dead  birds. 
After  ^opening  the  windpipe  with  a  sharp  knife,  cutting  lengthwise,  examine 
its  lining  and  see  if  you  can  detect  any  worms  there.  A  magnifying  glass 
will  be  found  helpful.  In  little  chicks,  the  diagnosis  is  not  usually  difficult, 
as  the  constant  gaping  is  almost  a  sure  indication,  but  older  fowls  may  gape 
because  of  some  obstruction  or  from  various  other  causes.  Besides  this,  in 
Pneumonia  or  Bronchitis  there  is  a  rise  in  temperature,  which  is  not  true  of 
Gapes  in  its  earlier  stages. 

TREATMENT— We  advise  that  the  chicks  be  removed  to  new  ground, 
where  absolute  cleanliness,  both  of  quarters  and  utensils  for  drinking  and 
feeding,  can  be  looked  after.  Do  not  feed  on  the  ground,  but  on  boards 
or  in  shallow  dishes,  and  thoroughly  scald  these  after  each  feeding.  Keep 
the  quarters  fully  disinfected  with  CONKEY'S  NOX-I-CIDE.  If  you 
cannot  move  your  chicks  to  new  ground,  make  a  flooring  of  matched  boards 
surrounded  by  wire  netting/  , Place  sand,  or  clean  dry  earth,  on  this  and 

Proceed  as  above,  changing  the  soil  on  the  boards  once  or  twice  a  week, 
n  treating  for  Gapes,  do  not  become  impatient.  This  disease  requires  con- 
siderable time  to  wipe  it  out,  and  it  may  be  quite  a  while  before  you  can 
note  any  improvement.  The  chief  thing  is  to  keep  up  the  strength  of 
the  chick  and  bring  the  bird  past  the  danger  period  while  working  for 
the  cure.  Keep  in  mind  that  the  very  nature  of  the  disease  makes  it 
slow  to  yield.  CONKEY'S  GAPE  REMEDY  will  prove  itself  satisfac- 
tory, if  instructions  are  persistently  followed. 

Along  with  this  treatment  other  things  should  be  done.  As  stated 
above,  the  disease  is  introduced  by  the  earth  worm.  As  the  irritation 
becomes  intense  the  fowls  cough  up  the  worms  and  these  are  eagerly 
picked  up  by  others  of  the  flock,  or  the  contamination  is  left  on  the 
ground  and  is  mixed  with  the  soil,  or  is  distributed  over  the  drinking 
vessels,  feed  troughs,  or  other  utensils,  where  it  is  sure  to  cause  infection 
again.  You  may  cure  the  Gapes  as  it  stands,  but  if  you  do  not  wipe  out 
the  cause,  it  will  bother  you  right  along  and  maybe  destroy  some  future 
hatch.  For  these  reasons,  the  most  stringent  measures  must  be  taken  to 
kill  it  root  and  branch.  CONKEY'S  NOX-I-CIDE,  one  part  NOX-I- 
CIDE  to  50  parts  of  water,  should  be  sprayed  or  sprinkled  thoroughly 
over  the  premises  -where  there  may  be  possibility  of  contamination.  All 
utensils  should  be  washed  with  the  solution  and  the  houses,  pens,  coops, 
etc.,  should  be  carefully  sprayed  or  sprinkled  with  it.  In  very  severe 
cases,  where  the  disease  is  of  long  standing,  it  may  be  necessary  to  move 
your  fowls  to  another  section  of  ground  and  not  to  use  the  old  quarters 
for  a  year  or  two.  The  ground  then  should  first  be  well  sprinkled  with 
NOX-I-CIDE,  1  part  NOX-I-CIDE  to  2  of  water,  and  then  plowed  in 
and  sowed  to  some  regular  crop.  If,  however,  as  soon  as  you  discover 
the  disease  among  your  fowls,  you  will  separate  the  sick  birds  and  follow 
closely  the  treatment  we  have  advised,  you  should  be  able  to  remedy  the 
trouble.  CONKEY'S  GAPE  REMEDY,  like  all  of  CONKEY'S  POUL- 
TRY REMEDIES,  is  a  practical  article,  carefully  compounded,  and  can 
be  relied  upon. 

Diseases  of  the  Digestive  Organs 

CHOLERA 

Genuine  Cholera  is  a  disease  but  little  known  and  as  little  understood. 
The  poultryman  calls  all  diseases  of  the  digestive  tract  "Cholera."  He  is 
wrong,  but  the  name  has  become  so  common  that  Bowel  Trouble,  Indigestion, 

39 


Diarrhoea,  Dysentery,  etc;,  commonly  come  wider  that  head  and  we  follow 
the  custom  so  as  to  be  understood.  True  Cholera  is  so  swift  and  fatal  in 
its  results  and  so  contagious,  that  there  could  be  no  mistaking  it.  Genuine 
Asiatic  Cholera  is  seldom,  if  ever,  seen  in  this  country,  and  our  meaning 
for  "Cholera"  is  the  many  diseases  that  resemble  it  and  are  so  termed  by 
common  usage. 

CAUSE— The  cause  of  Cholera  can  usually  be  traced  to  filthy  quarters 
or  to  the  drinking  of  stagnant  water.  It  is  frequently  brought  to  a  flock 
by  the  introduction  of  some  diseased  fowl,  or  contaminated  coop,  or  utensil, 
from  a  yard  infected  with  Cholera.  Improper  feeding,  like  soured  and  sloppy 
mashes,  often  causes  forms  of  Cholera.  The  feeding  of  too  much  of  one 
kind  of  food,  or  the  lack  of  some  kind  of  food  needed,  frequently  causes 
diseases  of  the  digestive  tract,  as  already  warned  in  the  matter  of  green 
bone,  oil  meals,  green  food,  etc. 

SYMPTOMS— A  slight,  watery  diarrhoea  is  usually  the  first  indication. 
The  bird  shows  a  lack  of  life  and  spirit,  and  goes  moping  around  half  asleep 
with  ruffled  feathers.  The  urates,  which  is  that  part  of  the  excrement 
thrown  off  by  the  kidneys,  and  which  in  healthy  fowls  is  white  in  color, 
takes  on  a  bright  yellow  tinge  or,  again,  it  may  turn  green.  This  is  not, 
however,  a  sure  indication  of  Cholera,  for  the  same  symptom  is  noticeable 
in  other  diseases  as  well.  The  droppings  become  nloody  as  the  result  of 
intense  inflammation ;  the  comb  darkens ;  frequently  it  turns  black  and  the 
decline  is  rapid — the  bird  possibly  being  sick  but  a  few  hours — though  the 
length  of  time  varies.  It  attacks  all  kinds  of  dom<St>  fowls  and  carries 
with  it  a  high  fever,  while  birds  become  exceedingly  weak  and  may  topple 
over  at  the  slightest  touch. 

TREATMENT*— The  most  important  aid  in  the  treatment  of  this 
disease  is  a  proper  disinfectant  which  should  be  used  freely  and  regularly. 
CONKEY'S  NOX-I-CIDE  cannot  be  surpassed  for  this  purpose.  One 
gallon  of  NOX-I-CIDE,  when  properly  mixed  with  water,  will  make  101 
gallons  of  ready-to-use  disinfectant.  This  solution  can  be  placed  in  a 
sprinkling  can  and  the  premises  gone  over  by  sprinkling,  or  it  can  be  sprayed 
through  a  regular  sprayer. 

As  soon  as  any  birds  show  an  indication  of  this  trouble  they  should  be 
isolated  from  the  others.  Both  the  old  and  new  quarters  should  be  dis- 
infected carefully  as  above  described.  CONKEY'S  CHOLERA  REMEDY 
should  be  placed  in  the  drinking  water  and  all  other  water  must  be  excluded. 
The  fever  of  the  disease  will  make  the  fowls  drink  eagerly  and  they  will 
take  their  own  medicine.  This  will  at  once  check  the  internal  inflammation, 
kill  all  the  germs  with  which  it  comes  in  contact,  and  assist  nature  in  throwing 
off  the  disease.  CONKEY'S  CHOLERA  REMEDY  should  also  be  given 
to  all  birds  which  may  possibly  have  come  in  contact  with  the  disease,  and 
they  should  be  deprived  of  all  water  except  that  in  which  the  remedy  has 
been  placed,  for  at  least  a  week.  As  soon  as  any  fowl  dies  it  should  be 
burned  and  the  ashes  and  remains  buried  at  a  distance  from  the  poultry 
yards.  The  drinking  water  should  be  frequently  changed,  and  thorough 
disinfection  should  be  kept  up  each  day  and  for  some  time  after  all  traces 
of  the  disease  have  disappeared. 

PREVENTION — Very  much  can  be  done  in  the  way  of  the  prevention 
of  this  disease ;  in  fact,  this  is  by  far  the  most  satisfactory  and  sure  method, 
for  if  once  allowed  to  get  into  a  flock,  it  is  bound  to  cause  considerable 
loss  before  it  can  be  checked.  Great  care  should  be  exercised  in  introducing 
new  fowls.  They  should  be  ^ftiarantined  for  a  weelc  or  two  until  you  are 

40 


satisfied   that  they  have   no   disease  germs   to   communicate.    CONKEY'S 
NOX-I-CIDE  should  be  used  freely  about  the  quarters  at  all  times. 


a-- 


3-- 


Illustration  No.  25. 
Digestive    Organs   of   the   Chicken. 


In  illustration  No.  25  the 
upper  part  of  the  head  has 
been  removed,  leaving  the 
lower  jaw,  and  that  is  turned 
sideways  to  show  the  tongue 
and  openings  to  the  trachea 
and  oesophagus.  All  the  neck, 
•with  the  exception  of  the 
oesophagus,  the  breast  bone, 
the  heart,  and  the  superficial 
muscles,  have  also  been  re- 
moved. 

1,  tongue ;  2,  pharynx,  show- 
ing opening  to  larynx;  3,  up- 
per portion  of  oesophagus;  4, 
crop;  5,  lower  portion  of 
oesophagus;  6,  succentric  ven- 
tricle ;  7,  gizzard ;  8,  origin  of 
the  duodenum;  9,  first  branch 
of  duodenal  flexure;  10,  sec- 
ond branch  of  same;  11,  origin 
of  the  floating  portion  of  small 
intestine ;  12,  small  intestine ; 
13,  free  extremities  of  the 
caeca;  14,  insertion  of  these 
two  organs  into  the  intestinal 
tube;  15,  rectum;  16,  cloaca; 
17,  anus;  18,  mesentery;  19, 
left  lobe  of  the  liver;  20,  right 
lobe;  21,  gall  bladder;  22,  in- 
sertion of  the  pancreatic  and 
biliary  ducts;  23,  pancreas; 
24,  lung;  25,  ovary;  26,  ovi- 
duct. 


INDIGESTION,  BOWEL  TROUBLE,  DIAR- 
RHOEA, DYSENTERY,  ETC. 

These  disorders  are  usually  termed  "Cholera,"  but,  fortuately  for  the 
poultryman,  they  are  of  a  far  less  serious  nature  and  readily  yield  to 
treatment  if  taken  in  time.  It  is  of  the  utmost  importance  that  these 
troubles  be  promptly  and  properly  attended  to  for,  if  they  are  allowed  to 
run,  they  are  generally  fatal  and  carry  off  a  large  number  of  the  flock. 

These  diseases  of  the  digestive  organs  are  especially  noticeable  in  little 
chicks  and  are  particularly  prevalent  during  warm  weather.  They  are 
also  evident  in  fowls  of  all  ages  and  are  one  of  the  greatest  drawbacks  to  the 
successful  raising  of  poultry. 

CAUSE— Most  of  these  troubles  can  be  traced  right  back  to  improper 
feeding.  Too  much  carbonaceous  food  is  given,  or  the  diet  is  held  too 
strictly  to  one  thing,  or  to  one  class  of  food.  Often  it  is  due  to  a  lack  of 
grit.  Many  people  try  to  get  along  without  this  vital  necessity.  Grit,  first, 
last,  and  all  the  time,  is  a  wise  motto  to  live  up  to.  Again,  these,  troubles  are 


41 


caused  by  the  fowls  eating  sour  or  decayed  food,  which  they  pick  up  for 
themselves.  This  may  be  as  good  a  place  as  another  to  speak  about  sour 
food. 

SOUR  MILK  IS  EXCELLENT  FOR  FOWLS  BECAUSE  THE 
SOURNESS  IS  DUE  TO  THE  PRESENCE  OF  LACTIC  ACID, 
WHICH  IS  NOT  ONLY  GOOD  FOR  FOWLS,  BUT  FOR  HUMAN 
BEINGS  ALSO.  BUT  A  MASH  WHICH  HAS  TURNED  SOUR 
IS  ENTIRELY  ANOTHER  MATTER,  AS  ITS  SOURNESS  IS  DUE 
TO  PUTRIFACTION  AND  IS  DEATH  TO  ALMOST  ANY  ANI- 
MAL OTHER  THAN  A  HOG.  It  is  not  even  good  for  hogs!  Little 
points  of  general  information  like  the  foregoing,  spell  success  for  the 
poultryman  and  farmer  and  lead  to  the  goal  of  profit  and  satisfaction. 

All  feed  should  be  of  good  quality,  properly  balanced. 

A  common  cause  is  found  in  the  close  confinement  and  lack  of  green 
food  in  winter,  and  the  consequent  over-eating  of  grass,  etc.,  when  fowls 
are  turned  loose  in  the  spring.  They  should  be  fed  green  food  freely 
during  the  winter  months.  See  page  19. 

Drinking  water  that  is  impure  or  stagnant  is  a  common  cause  of 
digestive  troubles.  A  good  supply  of  fresh  drinking  water  should -be  kept 
in  suitable  vessels  before  the  fowls  at  all  times.  This  water  should  be 
changed  frequently, — in  summer  to  keep  it  cool  and  in  winter  to  prevent 
freezing.  Place  it  so  as  to  keep  out  filth,  and  in  the  shade. 

Sanitary  quarters  will  help  to  prevent-  this,  and  also  many  other 
troubles.  CONKEY'S  NOX-I-CIDE  should  be  sprayed  about  the  build- 
ings, runs,  yards,  etc.,  frequently,  and  should  be  used  for  disinfecting 
the  drinking  vessels  and  feeding  utensils. 

If  birds  are  exposed  to  dampness,  or  are  permitted  to  live  in  cold, 
damp  quarters,  they  are  almost  sure  to  have  bowel  trouble. 

TREATMENT — Keep  all  water  from  the  fowls  except  that  in  which 
CONKEY'S  CHOLERA  REMEDY  has  been  placed.  Discontinue  heavy 
mashes  and  provide  only  a  limited  amount  of  clean,  pure  food.  If  too 
much  carbonaceous  food  has  been  given,  see  that  a  balanced  ration  takes 
its  place.  Sick  birds  should  be  placed  in  dry,  comfortable  quarters,  plenty 
of  grit  should  be  provided,  and  birds  should  be  free  from  lice,  and  kept 
free  by  the  use  of  CONKEY'S  LICE  PREPARATIONS.  A  large  pro- 
portion of  the  diseases  of  fowls  is  caused  by  these  pests,  and  no  bird  can 
throw  off  disease  if  its  vitality  is  being  sapped  by  parasites.  The  prem- 
ises, including  houses,  utensils,  runs,  etc.,  should  be  thoroughly  disinfected 
with  CONKEY'S  NOX-I-CIDE,  one  part  NOX-I-CIDE  to  100  parts  of 
water.  Fowls  that  die  should  be  completely  burned,  or  saturated  with 
a  strong  solution  of  NOX-I-CIDE,  and  buried. 

WHITE   DIARRHOEA  (Tiphlitis  Coccidiosa) 

There  are  various  theories  as  to  what  this  disease  really  is.-  A  new 
theory  is  that  it  is  a  bacillary  disease  due  to  a  parasitic  organism  very 
much  like  the  typhoid  fever  bacillus.  The  commonly  accepted  belief  is 
that  it  is  a  germ  disease  which  attacks  the  caeca  or  blind  intestine.  A 
post  mortem  examination  will  always  reveal  the  presence  of  Coccidium 
tennelum,  a  parasite  belonging  to  the  Spprozoa  of  the  division  Pro- 
tozoa, the  lowest  division  of  animal  life.  This  same  germ  attacks  turkeys, 
ducks  and  pigeons.  When  this  disease  prevails  it  usually  kills  a  large 
percentage,  sometimes  destroying  an  entire  hatch.  It  is  accompanied  by 
a  white,  pasty,  fecal  discharge,  which  pastes -up  the  feathers  and  closes 
the  vent.  There  is  also  a  disease  which  is  a  contraction  of  the  vent  which 
Comes  with  or  without  White  Diarrhoea,  and  is  always  fatal. 

CAUSE — The  presence  of  the  germ  (or  baccilus)  as  above.  While  this 

42 


disease  may  readily  be  transmitted  from  the  droppings  of  affected  fowls,  th« 
primary  cause  must  be  sought  back  to  the  eggs  used  for  hatching. 

PREVENTION— Hatching  eggs  should  always  be  antiseptically  cleaned 
by  wiping  in  95%  alcohol.  (Or  use  3%  NOX-I-CIDE  solution  as  de- 
scribed page  68.)  If  an  incubator  is  used,  it  should  be  washed  with  a  solu- 
tion of  CONKEY'S  NOX-I-CIDE,  1  part  to  40  of  water,  and  exposed  to  the 
sun.  The  egg  tray  should  be  scalded  and  washed  with  the  same  solution 
and,  if  there  is  burlap  in  the  nursery  or  elsewhere,  it  should  be  renewed. 
The  same  precautions  should  be  taken  with  the  brooders.  The  soil  to  which 
the  chicks  have  access  should  be  well  disinfected  with  NOX-I-CIDE  solu- 
tion, dug  up  often,  and  exposed  to  the  purifying  effect  of  sun  and  air. 

If  a  hen  is  used  for  hatching,  give  her  CONKEY'S  WHITE  DIAR- 
RHOEA REMEDY  as  a  preventive  of  the  chicks  contracting  it  from, 
her  through  her  droppings.  Also,  give  .it  to  laying  hens,  as  the  germ 
coccidea  has  been  found  in  the  white  of  the  egg  and  in  the  shell,  which  has 
been  taken  up  in  the  passage  of  the  egg  through  the  cloaca  of  the  hen. 
This,  of  course,  applies  to  poultry  yards  where  the  disease  may  have  been 
more  or  less  prevalent. 

While  we  do  not  agree  with  some  that  the  cause  of  White  Diarrhoea 
is  wholly  from  the  unabsorbed  yolk  in  the  digestive  tract  of  the  chick,  we 
do  most  strongly  advise  that  little  chicks  be  not  fed  for  the  first  48  hours 
after  hatching.  This  gives  the  yolk  time  to  be  fully  absorbed  and  saves  the 
chick  from  what  would  be  another  favoring  condition  for  White  Diarrhoea. 

TREATMENT— Give  CONKEY'S  WHITE  DIARRHOEA  REMEDY 
according  to  directions  in  the  drinking  water.  This  treatment  is  effective 
and  very  easy. 

CONSTIPATION 

This  is  caused  by  a  lack  of  exercise  and  proper  food,  or  by  worms; 
and  in  the  case  of  chicks  a  common  cause  is  obstruction  of  the  vent. 
Often  chicks  are  given  too  much  cornmeal  and  other  heavy  food  and 
not  enough  green  food  and  bulky  material.  Enlarge  the  runs  if  possible; 
give  an  increased  amount  of  bran  in  the  mash,  also  putting  in  the  mash 
a  large  percentage  of  cut  alfalfa  or  cut  clover,  and  give  them  the  sweep- 
ings from  the  hay  mow  to  pick  over.  For  medicine  give  CONKEY'S 
POULTRY  LAXATIVE,  either  as  a  laxative,  or  as  a  cathartic  dose  as 
needed,  according  to  directions. 

CROP  BOUND 

This  trouble  is  usually  caused  by  improper  feeding.  Too  much  grain 
in  the  crop  will  distend  it  and  impair  its  functions.  It  may  be  the  result 
of  the  fowl  eating  a  mass  of  dry  grass,  or  wire  grass,  or  indigestible  chaff, 
etc.,  which  forms  into  a  hard  ball  and  cannot  pass  beyond  the  crop.  The 
contents  of  the  crop  ferment  and  the  bird  is  liable  to  starve  with  its  crop  full. 

SYMPTOMS— The  symptoms  are  usually  easy  to  discover  as  the  crop 
is  Lard  and  greatly  distended.  In  some  cases,  an  ill  smelling  liquid  will 
run  from  mouth  and  nostrils.  The  comb  is  pale,  the  beak  is  open  as  the 
pressure  on  the  trachea  makes  it  difficult  to  breathe,  its  feathers  are  ruffled, 
and  the  bird  has  a  general  appearance  of  dejection. 

TREATMENT — Pour  a  little  sweet  oil  into  the  fowl's  mouth  and  force 
it  to  swallow.  Grasp  the  legs  with  one  hand  and,  with  the  other,  beginning 

4.1? 


at  the  top  of  the  crop,  gently  press  and  work  the  contents  of  the  crop,  and 
endeavor  to  loosen  up  a  small  quantity  of  the  .matter  that  may  thus  be  set 
free.  Supply  oil  often  while  working,  so  that  the  contents  of  the  crop  may 
be  kept  as  moist  as  possible.  As  soon  as  the  crop  is  emptied,  put  % 
teaspoonful  of  baking  soda  in  a  quart  of  water  and  keep  it  before  the 
fowl.  Do  not  feed  anything  for  a  day  and  then  very  sparingly  and  care- 
fully of  soft  foods  until  recovery. 

Where  the  above  process  proves  ineffectual,  more  heroic  measures  must 
be  taken.  Prepare  a  solution  of  five  drops  of  carbolic  acid  to  an  ounce  of 
water,  or  ,  if  you  have  it,  CONKEY'S  NOX-I-CIDE  instead  of  carbolic  acid, 
as  this  is  safer.  After  picking  the  feathers,  or  clipping  them,  with  scissors, 
from  a  point  near  the  top  of  the  crop,  leaving  the  skin  bare,  make  an  inci- 
sion an  inch  long  (no  longer)  lengthwise  of  the  neck  and  cutting  through  the 
outer  skin.  Now  press  this  skin  to  one  side  so  that  when  it  is  released  the 
next  incision  will  not  be  directly  behind  it,  and  make  a  half  inch  opening 
rather  high  up  in  the  crop,  so  that  the  food  will  not  press  it  open  when  heal- 
ing, as  it  would  tend  to  do  at  the  lower  part.  If  the  mass  inside  is  hard  and 
compact  it  may  be  necessary  to  cut  into  it  with  scissors.  Your  hands,  and 
all  tools  and  instruments  used,  should  be  dipped  into  the  disinfecting  solu- 
tion of  NOX-I-CIDE  or  carbolic  acid.  You  may  use  tweezers,  toothpicks, 
or  anything  with  which  you  can  carefully  loosen  the  contents  of  the  crop, 
and  you  must  be  careful  that  no  portion  of  the  crop's  contents  finds  its  way 
between  the  crop  and  the  skin.  Do  not  try  to  hurry,  but  patiently  take  every- 
thing out  of  the  crop,  inserting  the  little  finger  to  feel  that  the  lower 
opening  to  the  gizzard  is  not  obstructed.  The  wound  should  be  washed  with 
the  solution  and  both  incisions  should  be  sewed  with  white  silk  that  has 
also  been  dipped  in  the  solution.  Now  take  two  single  stitches  in  the  cut  in 
the  crop,  leaving  ends  long  enough  to  hang  out  of  the  wound  an  inch.  Then 
take  three  stitches  in  the  skin,  being  careful  not  to  include  the  crop  in  tying 
the  knot.  After  five  or  six  days  cut  the  stitches  and  carefully  draw  them 
out.  This  operation  is  not  serious  and  the  bird  is  soon  well. 

Feed  the  bird  nothing  for  at  least  twenty-four  hours;  then  give  small 
quantities  of  milk  for  two  or  three  days.  Mashes  can  be  given  after  four 
of  five  days  for  a  time  and  then  give  regular  foods.  It  would  also  be  well  to 
put  a  few  drops  of  CONKEY'S  NOX-I-CIDE  into  each  quart  of  drinking 
water,  as  this  will  prevent  infection.  CONKEY'S  POULTRY  TONIC,  ac- 
cording to  directions,  will  be  found  excellent  in  restoring  strength  to  the 
fowl  after  mash  feeding  is  commenced. 

GOING  LIGHT  (ASTHENIA) 

Going  Light  is  a  baffling  ailment.  It  gets  its  name  from  the  rapid 
loss  of  flesh.  Sometimes  it  is  a  germ  disease  of  the  small  intestines. 
Sometimes  it  is  due  to  unsanitary  quarters,  lack  of  sunshine,  etc.  Mites 
or  lice  may  cause  it;  or  indigestion  from  improper  feeding,  etc. 

SYMPTOMS — Combs  and  wattles  turn  pale;  voracious  appetite; 
loss  of  flesh;  and  slight  constipation. 

TREATMENT — First  make  a  most  thorough  disinfection  of  the 
premises  and  all  utensils,  such  as  founts,  troughs,  coops,  and  houses.  The 
first  remedy  indicated  is  a  disinfection  of  the  intestinal  tracts,  for  which 
give  CONKEY'S  CHOLERA  REMEDY  as  directed,  or  a  little  of 
CONKEY'S  NOX-I-CIDE  in  the  drinking  water— not  so  strong  that 
they  will  not  drink  it,  15  drops  to  a  gallon  of  water  is  about  right.  Then 
give  CONKEY'S  POULTRY  TONIC  according  to  directions  to  build 
up  the  system  and  restore  the  strength. 

44 


Leghorn  chicks  frequently  go  light  from  a  too  rapid  growth  of  wing 
feathers,  which  should  be  clipped  so  as  to  stop  the  drain  on  the  body.  Young 
pigeons  may  go  light  from  rapid  growth  of  tail  feathers  and  these  should  be 
plucked  out  with  a  quick  jerk  for  the  same  reason. 

Going  Light  is  often  not  so  much  of  a  disease  in  itself  as  it  is  a  symptom 
of  some  other  disease  such  as  Tuberculosis,  Infe-ctious  Leukaemia,  Asper- 
gilfosis,  Mould,  or  any  disease  where  the  blood  becomes  impoverished. 

CATARRH  OF  THE  CROP 

This  is  an  inflammation  of  the  membranes  of  the  crop  caused  by  over- 
eating due  to  irregular  or  careless  feeding,  by  eating  foreign  and  irritating 
substances,  by  worms  which  collect  in  the  crop,  or  by  eating  poisonous  sub- 
stances. 

SYMPTOMS— Loss  of  appetite  and  debility.  Fowls  try  to  eject  the 
contents  of  the  crop  and  may  belch  as  would  a  human  being  with  indigestion. 
The  crop  is  distended  and  feels  soft,  being  filled  with  foul  gas  or  liquid. 

TREATMENT — Hold  the  fowl  head  down  and  press  the  contents  of 
the  crop  gently  out  of  the  mouth.  Dissolve  one  grain  of  sallicylic  acid  in 
an  ounce  of  water  and  give  three  teaspoonfuls  at  once.  Do  not  give  any 
food  for  from  20  to  24  hours;  then  give  small  quantities  of  simple,  easily 
digested  food,  in  which  has  been  mixed  CONKEY'S  POULTRY  TONIC 
according  to  directions.  To  prevent  such  troubles  do  not  over-feed,  and  feed 
regularly.  Mashes  should  be  in  such  quantity  as  will  all  be  eaten  up  in  fif- 
teen to  twenty  minutes.  Grains  should  be  given  in  litter  to  make  the  fowls 
work. 

GASTRITIS 

This  is  inflammation  of  the  stomach  which  lies  between  the  crop  and 
the  gizzard,  due  to  eating  mouldy  or  poisonous  substances,  to  the  feeding 
of  foreign  and  indigestible  matter,  or  to  constant  over-feeding,  or  to 
lack  of  grit. 

SYMPTOMS — Inflammation  of  the  crop,  or  intermittent  diarrhoea 
and  constipation.  There  is  a  loss  of  appetite  and  general  debility,  together 
with  increased  temperature. 

TREATMENT— Give  birds  more  range  and  a  change  in  diet.  Give 
boiled  rice  water  to  drink.  Add  l/$  teaspoonful  baking  soda  to  each 
quart  of  drinking  water.  If  birds  are  constipated,  give  CONKEY'S 
POULTRY  LAXATIVE  according  to  directions,  continuing  if  necessary. 
Under-feed,  giving  crumbly  soft  mashes  mixed  with  water  that  has  been 
poured  hot  over  clover.  Also  give  some  meat  food. 

OBSTRUCTION  IN  THE  THROAT 

A  fowl  will  sometimes  attempt  to  swallow  a  piece  of  food  which,  be- 
cause of  its  shape  or  size,  will  lodge  in  the  throat.  Unless  removed  at  once, 
inflammation  and  consequent  swelling  will  result  and  without  immediate  relief 
death  will  follow. 

SYMPTOMS — Frequent  attempts  to  swallow,  and  often  a  hard  sub- 
stance can  be  felt  from  the  outside. 

TREATMENT— Give  a  small  quantity  of  sweet  oil  and  work  the  sub- 
stance out  at  the  mouth  by  easy  pressure  and  movement 

45 


BAGGING  DOWN 

This  is  caused  by  feeding  too  freely  of  corn  and  other  carbonaceous 
foods,  and  results  in  irritation,  inflammation,  and  loss  of  feathers,  of  the 
posterior  part  of  the  body,  by  its  hanging  down. 

TREATMENT— Change  the  diet,  giving  feeds  containing  largely  pro- 
tein, supply  liberal  quantities  of  green  foods,  and  make  fowls  scratch  for  all 
grains  in  deep  litter,  thus  compelling  exercise. 

DISEASES  OF  THE  LIVER 

The  liver  in  fowls,  as  in  hu- 
man beings,  is  one  of  the  larg- 
est organs  of  the  body  and  one 
of  the  most  important.  It  pre- 
pares the  bile  which  plays  such 
an  important  part  in  digestion 
and  it  has  much  to  do  with  the 
chemical  changes  in  the  blood. 
The  principal  diseases  are  Con- 
gestion of  the  Liver — Inflam- 
mation of  the  Liver,  called 
Hepatitis — Atrophy,  or  wasting 
of  the  Liver — and  Fatty  De- 
generation of  the  Liver.  For 
our  purpose,  all  of  these  may 
be  classed  under  the  head  of 
liver  troubles,  as  many  of  the 
symptoms  are  practically  iden- 
tical and  the  method  of  treat- 
ment is  very  much  the  same. 

CAUSE — The  main  cause  of 
Liver  Trouble  is  found  in  the 
lack  of  exercise  and  improper 
feeding.  Foods  which  are  too 
rich,  or  too  heavy  in  their  proportions  of  starch  and  fat-producing  elements, 
may  have  been  fed.  This  is  frequently  occasioned  'by  the  scraps  from  the 
table  and  kitchen  which  contain  so  mueh  bread,  potatoes,  etc.  If  scraps  are 
fed,  and  they  can  be  used  to  great  advantage,  they  should  be  perfectly  mixed 
with  other  foods,  so  that  the  whole  presents  a  balanced  ration. 

These  troubles  are  also  caused  by  the  presence  of  parasites  in  the  liver, 
those  characterizing  Chicken  Cholera,  Tuberculosis,  and  Blackhead  (the  lat- 
ter is  found  in  Turkeys)  being  the  most  common.  These  cause  various  de- 
rangements— inflammation,  and  finally  death  of  the  tissues. 

SYMPTOMS — The  great  trouble  in  overcoming  Liver  Troubles  is  that 
the  symptoms  are  often  misleading  and  are  slow  to  appear,  the  result  being 
that  when  they  are  discovered  it  is  often  too  late  to  apply  an  effective  rem- 
edy. The  Fancier,  or  careful  poultryman,  who  watches  his  flock  closely,  is 
able  to  detect  these  symptoms,  but  with  the  ordinary  market  poultryman,  the 
disease  is  liable  to  be  well  advanced  before  the  need  of  a  remedy  becomes 
apparent. 

The  comb  and  wattles  usually  show  a  lack  of  color,  gradually  changing 
to  dark  red  or  purple ;  there  is  a  loss  of  appetite  and  the  bird  is  sluggish. 
In  Jaundice  the  skin  takes  on  a  yellowish  hue,  and  this  is  also  indicated  in  the 
comb  and  wattles.  The  disease  is  commonly  attended  by  a  diarrhoea  watery 


Illustration    No.    26. 
Diseased   Liver. 


46 


and  dark  in  color,  and  gradually  changing  to  a  yellow  cast.     There  is  much 
loss  in  weight  and  the  bird  becomes  poor. 

TREATMENT — Give  free  and  open  range  if  possible  and  see  that  birds 
have  plenty  of  exercise.  Give  as  a  purgative  one  rounded  teaspoonful  of 
CONKEY'S  POULTRY  LAXATIVE  to  each  two  quarts  of  mash  feed  for 
two  days,  then  discontinue  for  two  days  and  repeat.  If  this  remedy  cannot 
be  given  in  the  feed,  mix  the  LAXATIVE  with  a  little  sugar  syrup  and  roll 
into  pills,  giving  each  fowl  one  the  first  day  and  repeat  the  second  day  if 
necessary.  Change  the  diet,  providing  a  supply  of  clover,  or  other  green 
food,  especially  in  the  mashes.  Discard  cornmeal,  bread,  potatoes,  and  all 
starchy ,  foods  as  much  as  possible,  and  substitute  foods  which  are  high  in 
protein,  such  as  wheat,  ground  peas,  oats,  etc.  Raw  beef  or  green  cut  bone 
will  be  found  very  beneficial.  CONKEY'S  POULTRY  TONIC  given  ac- 
cording* to  directions  will  be  found  excellent  for  bringing  the  birds  back  to 
proper  condition. 

BLACKHEAD 

(Infectious  Entero-Hepatitis.) 

This  is  a  parasitic  disease  which  attacks  the  caeca,  sympathetically  affects 
the  liver  and  is  confined  principally  to  turkeys. 
The  Caeca  is  a  sort  of  blind  double-intestine  and, 
much  like  the  vermiform  appendix  in  human 
beings.  Its  use  is  not  fully  understood.  We  do 
know,  however,  from  dissection,  its  exact  form 
in  both  normal  and  diseased  condition. 

CAUSE — The  disease  is  caused  by  a  parasite 
(Amoeba  meleagridis)  which  is  taken  into  the 
digestive  system  with  the  food'  or  drink.  It  at- 
tacks the  mucous  membrane  of  the  caeca  and 
brings  on  intense  inflammation.  The  micro-para- 
sites find  their  way  from  the  diseased,  caeca  into 
the  liver,  which  brings  this  disease  under  the  head 
of  Liver  Trouble. 

SYMPTOMS— General  Weakness,  loss  of  ap- 
petite, and  an  almost  constant  diarrhoea.  As  the 
disease  progresses,  the  head  becomes  discolored, 
turning  quite  dark,  which  gives  the  disease  its 
name. 


Caeca  of  Cacea  of 

Healthy  Diseased 

Turkey.  Turkey. 

Illustratioft  No.   23. 


TREATMENT— This  must  be  largely  preven- 
tive. CONKEY'S  POULTRY  TONIC  in  the 
mash  food,  and  CONKEY'S  CHOLERA  REME- 
DY in  the  drinking  water,  have  been  found  ef- 
fective. We  have,  however,  a  special  BLACKHEAD  REMEDY.  While 
we  do  not  guarantee  this  remedy  to  cure  all  cases,  it  has  proven  so  thoroughly 
efficacious  in  so  many  instances,  that  we  feel  compelled  to  put  it  on  the 
market  for  those  who  wish  to  take  advantage  of  it.  (See  Special  Remedies, 
page  68. 

Where  the  disease  has  reached  its  height  heroic  measures  must  be  adopt- 
ed. Remove  all  affected  birds  and  disinfect  the  premises,  utensils,  houses, 
etc.,  with  CONKEY'S  NOX-I-CIDE.  Give  the  preventives  to  those  not  at- 
tacked and  give  CONKEY'S  SPECIAL  BLACKHEAD  REMEDY  to  the 
affected  fowls  which  you  have  separated.  Keep  up  constant  disinfection. 


47 


The   germs  are  thrown  off  from  the  bowels  and,  as   the    diarrhoea   is 
severe,  the  danger  of  infection  is  very  great. 

Blackhead  is  one  of  the  most  fatal  poultry  diseases  to  attack  a  riock, 
(usually  turkeys)  and  no  one  can  guarantee  a  cure  after  the  disease  is  once 
thoroughly  established. 

Diseases  of  the  Urinary  and  Reproducing  Organs 

INFLAMMATION  OF  THE  OVIDUCT 

This  is  caused  by  fowls  laying  eggs  too  often  or  eggs  too  large.  It  is 
also  caused  by  internal  disorders  of  the  oviduct,  such  as  Egg  Bound, 
breaking  of  the  egg  in  the  oviduct,  etc.  These  last  mentioned  may  be  caused 
by  an  overplus  of  fat  from  improper  methods  of  feeding. 

SYMPTOMS— The  fowl  strains  repeatedly  as  if  attempting  to  lay  and, 
if  it  does  lay,  the  eggs  may  be  spotted  with  blood.  The  straining  often  leads 
to  ruptured  blood  vessels  which  cause  death.  The  vent  is  inflamed,  the  tem- 
perature first  increases,  but  later  decreases  as  the  fowl  loses  strength,  and 
finally  dies  of  exhaustion. 

TREATMENT— The  diet  should  contain  a  large  share  of  green  food, 
and  all  grains,  or  maslies,  should  be  cooling.  Do  not  give  stimulating  or 
condimental  foods.  The  birds  should  be  separated  from  the  flock  and  be 
given  a  quiet  place.  A  pinch  of  baking  soda  together  with  a  dose  of 
CpNKEY'S  POULTRY  LAXATIVE,  will  be  fotnd  helpful.  If  you 
think  that  the  egg  is  lodged  in  the  passage,  insert  an  oiled  finger  and 
proceed  as  in  Egg  Bound,  but  every  movement  should  be  slow  and 
patient,  as  the  inflammation  is  intense.  Dust  out  with  CONKEY'S 
HEALING  POWDER. 

PROLAPSUS  OF  THE  OVIDUCT  i 

This  is  confined  mostly  to  old  hens,  and  is  due  to  over-stimulating  food, 
straining,  especially  when  passing  large  eggs,  and  may  also  be  due  to  con- 
stipation. It  is  frequently  one  of  the  results  of  Inflammation  of  the.  Oviduct. 

SYMPTOMS— There  is  generally  a  protrusion  from  the  vent  of  a 
idark-red  or  violet-colored  mass,  which  becomes  highly  inflamed,  and  which 
is  liable  to  invite  Gangrene,  in  which  case  death  is  inevitable. 

TREATMENT — Determine  at  once  whether  or  not  there  is  an  egg  in 
the  passage.  If  so  treat  as  for  Egg  Bound.  If  it  is  not  due  to  this  trouble, 
then  bathe  the  parts  in  a  weak  solution  of  CONKEY'S  NOX-I-CIDE  and, 
when  dry,  apply  CONKEY'S  HEALING  POWDER,  and  gently  press  the 
protrusion  back  into  place.  Then  follow  treatment  as  outlined  for  Inflamma- 
tion of  the  Oviduct.  In  addition  to  this,  give  the  fowl  five  drops  of 
Fluid  Extract  of  Ergot. 

VENT  GLEET 

Cloacitis,  or  Vent  Gleet,  is  a  contagious  catarrh  of  the  cloaca,  or 
lower  portion  of  bowel  and  is  usually  transmitted  from  fowl  to  fowl  in 
the  act  of  copulation. 

SYMPTOMS — It  is  first  indicated  by  frequent  passages  of  excrement, 
the  bird  often  trying  to  pass  matter  when  there  is  nothing  there.  The  mem- 

48 


branes  are  red,  dry  and  swollen.    A  thin,  watery  discharge  appears,  which 
becomes  white  later  on  and  is  very  offensive. 

TREATMENT— Separate  the  sick  birds  from  balance  of  the  flock. 
Make  a  warm  solution  of  1  teaspoonful  of  NOX-I-CIDE  in  2  quarts  of 
warm  water,  and  for  15  or  20  minutes  immerse  the  lower  portion  of  the 
fowl's  body,  including  the  vent,  in  this  solution.  Dry  and  put  in  a  warm 
room  to  prevent  catching  cold.  Repeat  each  day  if  necessary,  and  apply 
CONKEY'S  HEALING  POWDER  or  CONKEY'S  PAIN  LOTION 
to  the  vent. 

EGG  BOUND 

This  is  more  likely  to  happen  with  older  fowls,  especially  during  the 
latter  part  of  winter,  and  may  be  traced  to  over-fat  condition. 

SYMPTOMS — The  symptoms  are  unmistakable  as  the  bird  becomes 
listless  and  makes  frequent  attempts  to  expel  the  egg.  If  the  bird  is 
examined,  the  egg  may  be  felt  as  a  hard  substance. 

TREATMENT — In  ordinary  cases,  inject  a  small  quantity  of  sweet 
oil  into  the  vent  and  then,  by  gentle  pressure,  assist  the  passage  of  the 
egg.  When  this  is  accomplished,  reduce  the  feed  and  give  green  food  in 
abundance,  withholding  all  carbohydrates  or  fat-producing  foods.  If  this 
does  not  bring  the  desired  result,  and  the  egg  is  not  ejected,  immerse  the 
posterior  portion  of  the  fowl  in  warm  water  for  about  half  an  hour. 
Inject  oil  as  before  and  endeavor  to  assist  the  egg's  movement  by  using 
a  gentle  pressure.  If  this  fails,  it  is  best  to  insert  an  oiled  finger,  break- 
ing the  egg,  thus  allowing  its  contents  to  escape,  and  then  remove  the 
particles  of  shell  with  the  finger.  If,  during  this  treatment  for  Egg 
Bound,  Fluid  Extract  of  Ergot  is  given,  five  drops  to  a  dose  two  or  three 
times  a  day,  it  will  be  found  helpful.  If  it  happens  that  through  the 
fowl's  attempt  to  expel  the  egg,  the  oviduct  is  ruptured,  and  the  egg 
breaks  through  into  the  abdominal  cavity,  it  will  lead  to  death.  If  this 
is  found  to  be  the  case,  by  all  means  kill  the  fowl. 

BLOODY  EGGS 

Sometimes  there  may  be  found  clots  of  blood  within  an  egg.  These  are 
due  to  internal  hemorrhages  and  can  usually  be  counteracted  by  feeding 
plenty  of  green  food,  and  discontinuing  condimental  foods,  and  giving  less 
animal  food;  the  object  being  to  allay  inflammation  which  may  have  pro- 
duced the  hemorrhage. 

EGGS  WITHOUT  SHELLS 

These  are  usually  accounted  for  by  a  lack  of  shell-making  material  in 
the  ration  of  the  fowls.  They  may  also  be  traced  to  the  inflammation  of  that 
part  of  the  oviduct  where  the  shell  is  formed.  This  trouble  leads  to  more 
or  less  irritation  and  should  be  corrected  at  once.  This  can  be  done  by  pro- 
viding plenty  of  crushed  oyster  shells,  mortar,  granulated  or  broken  dry 
bone,  wheat  bran,  etc.  We  do  not  advise  the  use  of  egg  shells  as  this  may 
lead  to  the  egg-eating  habit 

DOUBLE  YOLKED  EGGS 

These  are  often  found,  and  the  egg  containing  double  yolks  is  usually 
larger  than  the  normal  egg  and,  for  this  reason,  may  cause  some  difficulty. 
As  a  rule,  there  is  no  cause  for  concern.  Eggs  of  this  kind  should  not  be 
incubated,  as  they  will  usually  produce  freaks. 

49 


DIMINUTIVE  EGGS 

An  examination  of  these  will  usually  show  an  absence  of  a  yolk.  The 
albuminous  part  of  the  egg  is  present,  but  irritation  in  the  oviduct  has  inter- 
fered with  the  proper  union  of  the  yolk  and  albumen:  The  albuminous 
matter,  reaching  the  shell-forming  part  of  the  organ,  is  provided  with  the 
proper  covering  and  the  incomplete  egg  is  laid.  When  you  discover  a  hen 
having  this  tendency,  separate  her  from  the  others.  As  the  trouble  is  due  to 
inflammation  of  the  oviduct,  follow  treatment  suggested  under  that  heading. 

EGGS  WITH  ODORS 

When  such  foods  as  onions,  fish,  and  even  garlic,  are  fed  in  small  quan- 
tities, they  may  prove  beneficial,  but  when  layers  have  access  to  such  strong 
foods  they  often  taint  the  eggs.  It  is  on  the  same  principle  that  celery  is 
used  in  fattening  food  for  ducks,  to  give  the  flesh  a  celery  flavor.  Avoid 
such  strong  foods  where  you  are  producing  eggs  for  special  market. 

TWO  EGGS  IN  ONE 

Hens  will  occasionally  lay  an  egg  .which  contains  within  itself  another 
egg  with  its  proper  shell  covering.  The  inner  egg,  however,  usually  corre- 
sponds with  our  description  of  diminutive  eggs — that  is  it  contains  no  yolk. 
The  small  egg  is  formed  and  an  attempt  is  made  to  lay  it.  Instead  of  pass- 
ing out,  a  counter  movement  forces  it  back  into  the  oviduct,  where  it  proba- 
bly comes  in  contact  with  the  albumen  and  yolk  of  another  egg  on  its  way 
to  the  uterus  to  be  covered  with  a  shell,  and  the  double  egg  is  expelled. 
This  condition,  if  continuous,  is  abnormal,  and  is  an  indication  of  the  fact 
that  the  fowls  are  being  too  much  forced  for  egg  production. 

HOW  TO  PRODUCE  EGGS 

Hens  for  breeding,  and  fancy  stock,  should  never  be  forced!  Utility 
stock  should  be  made  to  pay  all  that  it  can  and  pushed  to  the  limit  of 
healthful  production.  Is  it  not  better  to  feed  fowls  for  a  maximum  egg 
yield  for  two  years  and  then  replace  them  with  new  stock,  rather  than 
to  feed  them  for  four  years  for  a  continuous  minimum  egg  yield? 

Horses  are  fed  to  draw  the  heaviest  loads ;  cows  are  fed  to  give  the  most 
milk,  so  why  not  feed  your  fowls  to  produce  the  greatest  profit  ?  Some  peo- 
ple say,  "Why,  it  is  not  natural !"  Neither  is  laying  more  than  twelve  eggs  a 
year  natural,  and  it  is  most  decidedly  unnatural  for  a  hen  to  lay  an  egg  in 
cold  weather !  Stick  to  nature  and  you  will  go  bankrupt  in  the  poultry  rais- 
ing business ! 

It  has  taken  years  of  careful  study  and  experiment  to  perfect  CON- 
KEY'S  LAYING  TONIC,  an  article  that  does  not  injure  the  hen,  but 
which  does  tone  and  invigorate,  improving  the  digestive  system,  strength- 
ening the  egg-producing  organs  and  in  general  putting  the  fowl  in  that 
constitutional  condition  which  is  the  secret  of  spring  and  summer  laying. 
Most  fowls  need  a  tonic  right  after  the  molt.  Often  they  do  not  fully 
recover  condition  before  the  coming  of  winter.  The  system  is  low,  the 
circulation  sluggish,  in  fact,  all  conditions  exactly  opposite  to  summer 
vigor! 

CONKEY'S  LAYING  TONIC  insures  perfect  digestion  and  tones  the 
egg-producing  organs.  By  keeping  the  health  at  the  maximum  point  it 
prepares  the  proteids  for  egg  production  and  invites  summer  activity  in  the 
winter  season.  It  assists  in  the  maintenance  of  heat  without  fat,  thereby 
inducing  egg  laying  by  natural  methods  and  without  forcing.  It  assimilates 
the  carbohydrates — the  heating  foods — with  the  rich  blood  that  serves  to 
convey  the  protein,  thereby  overcoming  the  greatest  problem  against  nature — 

50 


the  problem  of  furnishing  winter  heat  without  winter  sluggishness.  All  this 
is  the  secret  of  winter  eggs,,  and  it  is  worth  finding  out.  See  CONKEY'S 
LAYING  TONIC,  page  70. 

POISONING 

Through  careless  distribution  of  insect  killers,  salt  brine,  salt  meat,  lye, 
fertilizers,  copperas,  phosphorus  from  matches,  rough  on  rats,  paint  left  in 
old  cans,  Paris  green,  etc.,  many  fowls  meet  death  annually.  It  is  necessary  to 
use  the  utmost  precaution  to  prevent  fowls  from  obtaining  access  to  them. 

SYMPTOMS — Trembling,  convulsions,  and  drowsiness.  The  fowls  seek, 
a  dark  place  and  draw  their  heads  into  the  body.  As  a  rule,  the  cause  of  the 
trouble  is  discovered  too  late  to  permit  treatment. 

TREATMENT — If  the  case  is  discovered  immediately,  try  to  empty 
the  crop.  If  you  know  or  suspect  the  nature  of  the  poison,  an  antidote 
for  same  should  be  given.  Where  poison  is  due  to  salt,  lye,  or  fertilizers 
which  contain  nitrate  of  soda,  give  as  drinks  strong  coffee,  brandy,  or 
flaxseed  tea,  slippery  elm  or  similar  mucilaginous  liquid.  Where  poison- 
ing is  due  to  copper,  zinc,  or  lead,  give  white  of  egg  in  liberal  quantities. 
For  phosphorous  give  magnesia  and  afterwards  flax-seed  tea. 

MOULD  (Aspergillosis) 

This  form  of  poisoning  is  occasioned  by  fowls  inhaling,  or  otherwise 
taking  into  their  systems,  mould  which  they  obtain  from  mouldy  food,  or 
from  mouldy  hay,  straw,  vegetables,  etc.  Some  people  believe  that  anything 
is  good  enough  for  poultry  and  buy  musty,  burned  wheat,  etc.  It  is  a  costly 
economy  and,  sooner  or  later,  Mould  will  be  the  result. 

.  SYMPTOMS— It  is  indicated  by  lack  of  ambition,  the  fowl  separating 
itself  from  the  others.  The  bird  is  sleepy  and  sits  down  from  lack  of 
strength.  There  is  usually  some  catarrh,  with  rattling  in  the  throat,  diffi- 
cult breathing,  and  temperature  above  normal.  There  is  frequently  a  fungus 
growth  on  the  membranes,  holding  the  mouth  open  and  something  resembling 
canker.  .  *- 

TREATMENT— Practically  nothing  can  be  done.     Birds  dying  from  it 
should  be  burned  and  the  remains  buried.    Prevention  is  the  best  plan,    bee 
that  nothing  of  a  mouldy  nature,  either  as  a  food  or  litter    is  placed  with 
their  reach.     Shake  out  and  air  all  straw  used  for  litter.     Frequent  spraying 
of  premises  with  CONKEY'S  NOX-I-CIDE  will  be  found  of  great  value. 
If  you  wish  to  try  treatment,  give  strong  coffee,  brandy,  or  y2  to 
of  Quinine  several  times  a  day. 

LIMBER  NECK 

This  is  ptomaine  poisoning  and  is  a  very  fatal  disease,  demanding 
immediate  treatment.  It  can  be  easily  cured  in  all  early  stages. 

CAUSE — Limber  Neck  is  caused  by  the  fowls  having  access  to,  and 
eating  from,  putrefying  animal  matter.  If  the  premises  are  diligently 
searched  when  this  disease  first  makes  its  appearance,  some  dead  animal,  or 
fowl  will  be  found  in  a  state  of  decomposition,  upon  which  the  birds  have 
been' feasting.  The  eating  of  maggots  from  such  putrefying  flesh  may  result 
in  the  same  disease.  It  might  also  possibly  be  due  to  intestinal  worms,  but 
that  is  not  frequent. 

SYMPTOMS— The  main  symptom  from  which  the  disease  gets  its 
name  is  the  peculiar  action  of  the  neck,  which  is  so  limber  that  the  bird  can- 

51 


not  hold  its  head  in  position.     The  bird  is  weak  on  its  legs  and  staggers  and 
trips  as  it  attempts  to  walk. 

^  TREATMENT — First  find  and  burn  th6  cause,  burying  deeply  what  re- 
mains in  a  secluded  spot.  Disinfect  the  immediate  location  with  a  solution 
of  CONKEY'S  NOX-I-CIDE.  Separate  the  sick  birds  from  the  others. 
Place  one  heaping  teaspoonful  of  CONKEY'S  LIMBER  NECK  REMEDY 
in  a  quart  of  water  and  stir  until  dissolved.  Then  give  each  bird  one  table- 
spoonful  of  the  solution  three  or  four  times  a  day  according  to  the  severity 
of  the  attack.  Hold  the  bird's  head  back  and  elevate  the  bill  when  giving 
the  medicine. 

If  the  affected  flock  is  too  numerous  to  administer  individual  treatment, 
good  results  may  be  obtained  by  giving  no  other  water  than  that  in  which 
CONKEY'S  LIMBER  NECK  REMEDY,  in  above  proportion,  has  been 
placed,  but  treat  individually  where  possible  for  the  best  results.  The 
fowl  should  begin  to  show  decided  improvement  after  one  day's  treat- 
ment. 


Parasites 

ROUND  WORMS 

Worms  are  not  a  source  of  serious  trouble  among  fowls, 
but  every  poultryman  should  know  what  they  are,  their 
symptoms,  and  the  proper  treatment. 

This  name  is  derived  from  the  form  and  is  used  to  dis- 
tinguish them  from  the  flat  tapeworm.  They  are  white  in 
color,  with  the  head  pointed,  and  their  length  varies  from 
one-half  inch  to  four  and  five  inches.  They  are  not  a  source 
of  great  trouble  unless  present  in  large  numbers,  in  which 
case  their  very  mass  interferes  with  the  passage  of  food  and 
proper  digestion.  Their  presence  also  causes  more  or  less 
irritation,  which  brings  on  diarrhoea,  and  they  take  so  much 
of  the  fowl's  food  for  their  own  sustenance  that  the  fowl 
loses  strength. 

SYMPTOMS^-It  is  difficult  to  outline  symptoms  which 
can  be  taken  as  certain  evidence  of  this  trouble.  Sometimes 
these  worms  pass  through  the  intestines  and  are  thrown  off 
in  the  excrement,  in  which  case  they  can  be  detected.  A  slight 
diarrhoea  and  general  symptoms  of  indigestion  are  usually 
present,  together  with  a  wasting  away  in  spite  of  a  vigorous 
appetite.  When  dressing  fowls  for  market,  be  on  the  look- 
out for  these  worms  and,  if  detected,  note  the  fowls  showing 
symptoms  and  give  them  treatment.  Worms  often  cause 
staggering  and  this  symptom  is  called  Staggers  by  many  as 
a  special  disease. 

TREATMENT— We  have  a  special  remedy  for  worms 
which  is  excellent  if  given  according  to  directions.  The 
trouble  is  not  common  enough  for  dealers  generally  to 
keep  this  remedy  in  stock,  but  we  will  mail  it  to  those 
who  send  to  us  for  it.  See  CONKEY'S  SPECIAL 
REMEDIES,  page  68, 

5? 


SCALY  LEG 

This  disease  is  caused  by  a  parasite  working  in  and 
underneath  the  scales  of  the  feet  and  legs.  The  scales  are 
loosened  and  elevated  by  a  powderous  substance  accumu- 
lating beneath  them,  which  gradually  spreads  from  the  toes, 
up  the  legs  until  the  feet  and  legs  are  much  larger  than  in 
normal  condition,  often  making  it  difficult  for  the  bird  to 
walk.  Scaley  Leg  is  contagious  and  while  not  fatal,  it  is 
injurious  to  the  bird  and  lowers  its  sale  value,  as  well  as  its 
usefulness.  Never  set  a  hen  having  Scaly  Leg — cure  her 
first.  The  disease  is  more  contagious  among  fowls  which 
are  poorly  cared  for,  but  the  very  best  cared  for  may 
contract  it. 

TREATMENT— CONKEY'S     SCALY    LEG     REM- 
EDY   combines    a   wash    and    an    ointment   which    comes 
in   the   same   package.      Place  two   tablespoon  fuls   of   the  niustration   No.    31 
liquid   in   each  pint   of   warm  water   and  stand  the   bird         Scaly  Leg. 

in  this  until  the  scales  are  thoroughly  softened.  Then 
rub  off  scales  gently  with  blunt  stick,  dry  the  legs,  and 
apply  the  ointment  daily  for  three  or  four  days  and,  if 
necessary,  use  warm  liquid  once  more  to  soften  scales. 
(Then  again  apply  the  ointment.  It  is  wise  to  dip  legs 
of  all  your  fowls  as  above,  two  or  three  times,  even 
if  but  few  are  troubled,  as  it  is  contagious  and  this 
may  save  the  balance  of  your  flock  from  the  disease. 
The  houses  should  be  thoroughly  cleaned  and  then 
sprayed  with  a  solution  of  CONKEY'S  NOX-I-CIDE, 
one  tumblerful  to  a  pail  of  water. 

TAPE  WORM 

The  name  is  derived  from  the  great  length  of  these 
worms  and  their  thinness — resembling  a  piece  of  tape. 

SYMPTOMS — The  symptoms  are  much  the  same  as 
with  the  round  worm.  Frequently,  however,  sections 
of  the  worms  may  be  noticed  in  the  droppings.  Fowls 
mope  around  from  no  apparent  cause,  and  their  plumage 
is  rough  and  loses  brilliancy.  They  become  dull  and 
•listless  and  show  no  disposition  to  work.  There  is 
usually  diarrhoea,  and  the  birds  grow  weak  and  thin. 

TREATMENT— All  droppings  should  be  burned  im- 
mediately and  premises  disinfected  with  CONKEY'S 
NOX-I-CIDE.  Follow  suggestions  for  round  worms 
"IRftftJ^  remedy.  See  CONKEY'S  SPECIAL 

Illustration    No.   30.      REMEDIES,  page  68. 

LICE. 

The  word  "Lice"  explains  more  disease,  more  poor  egg  records,  more  loss 
to  the  poultryman,  than  all  other  causes  combined.  If  a  fowl  is  not  doing 
well,  and  is  in  any  respect  below  standard,  the  very  first  thing  that  should  be 
done  is  to  LOOK  FOR  LICE.  If  this  book  accomplishes  nothing  more  than 

53 


to  impress  this  emphatically  upon  the  mind  of  every  reader,  it  will  have  ful- 
filled a  mission  the  benefit  of  which  cannot  be  estimated,  and  will  have 
resulted  in  saving  many  poultrymen  a  large  amount  of  money,  not  to  men- 
tion worry  and  disappointment. 

Many  people  maintain  that  lice  can  spring  spontaneously  from  filth  alone. 
This  is  not  true.  Lice  can  generate  only  from  parent  stock  and  these,  in 
some  manner,  must  be  introduced  into  a  flock  before  lice  can  be  present. 
The  ways  of  introduction,  however,  are  so  numerous,  that  it  is  almost  uni- 
versally true  that  where  the  fowl  is,  there  also  will  be  found  the  louse. 

There  are  many  kinds  of  lice  that  attack  the  domestic  fowl  and  we 
might  enter  into  a  technical  description  of  their  nature,  habits  and  classifica- 
tion, but  this  would  be  a  waste  of  time  from  a  practical  standpoint.  For 
our  purpose  we  can  consider  them  under  three  classes,  as  their  habits  run 
in  three  directions,  and  it  takes  three  different  preparations  to  exterminate 
them  all.  NEVER  PUT  FAITH  IN  A  CLAIM  THAT  ANY  ONE 
PREPARATION  WILL  EXTERMINATE  THEM  ALL  WITHOUT  IN- 
JURING THE  FOWL.  We  will  call  the  three  classes,  Body  Lice,  Head 
Lice,  and  Mites. 


Body  Louse. 
Lipeurus   Variabilis. 
Illustration  No.  32. 


Head  Louse. 
Menopon    Biseriatum. 


Mite. 
Dermanyssus  Gallinae. 


BODY  LICE— Body  Lice  are  to  be  found  on  all  parts  of  the  fowl's 
body,  but  more  generally  around  the  vent  and  wherever  the  fluffy  feathers 
are  located.  They  usually  remain  on  the  fowl's  body  and  multiply  very  rap- 
idly. It  is  'estimated  that  in  eight  weeks'  time,  one  louse  can  have  produced, 
from  itself  and  offspring,  125,000  lice.  While  this  species  do  not  suck  the 
fowl's  blood,  they  live  on  the  roots  of  the  feathers  and  by  attacking  the 
scales  of  the  skin.  This  results  in  extreme  irritation  and  constant  fretful- 
ness  of  the  birds. 

HEAD  LICE— These  lice  are  of  the  family  "pediculidae"  which  are  true 
blood  suckers,  and  have  long  bills  with  which  to  puncture  the  skin  and  blood 
vessels  underneath.  They  fasten  on  the  heads  and  throats  of  little  chicks, 
leaving  the  head  of  the  mother  hen  as  soon  as  the  chicks  are  hatched.  They 
quickly  sap  the  vitality  of  young  chicks,  and  thousands  upon  thousands  die 
yearly  from  this  cause  alone.  Brooder  chicks  are  not  exempt  unless  the  ut- 
most care  is,  taken  to  keep  the  brooder  free  from  lice. 

MITES— These  pests  are  the  worst  of  all,  if  it  is  possible  to  make  com- 
parisons. Unlike  the  body  lice,  they  remain  on  the  fowl's  body  only  at  night. 
During  the  day  they  hide  in  the  cracks  and  crevices  of  the  roosts,  dropping* 
boards,  walls  of  the  houses,  etc.,  or  any  spot  where  they  can  conceal  them- 
selves Where  the  roost  comes  in  contact  with  the  side  of  the  building,  they 
find  a  convenient  lodgment.  You  may  notice  an  accumulation  there  which 
has"  every  appearance  of  a  handful  of  dust.  It  may  escape  your  serious  notice 

54 


for  a  time,  until  you  discover  that  it  moves  and  is  a  mass  of  living  organ- 
isms— a  countless  body  of  mites  waiting  for  roosting  time.  What  a  reception 
for  the  flock,  which  has  spent  much  of  the  day  in  a  vain  effort  to  rid  them- 
selves of  the  body  lice  by  diligent  picking  and  scratching,  to  have  this  army 
of  Mites  quickly  spread  themselves  over  their  bodies,  to  bite,  or  bore,  through 
the  skin,  suck  their  blood,  deprive  tlem  of  rest,  and  sap  the  best  of  their 
vitality ! 

CAUSE — As  stated  above,  lice  do  not  spring  up  themselves,  though  the 
main  cause  of  their  increase  is  carelessness  and  filth. .  Where  you  find  a  flock 
poorly  housed  in  damp,  mouldy,  ill-smelling  quarters,  and  lacking  in  the  con- 
stant care  and  attention  they  are  entitled  to,  there  you  will  find  lice  in  count- 
less numbers.  The  very  rapidity  of  the  increase  of  these  pests  explains  how 
necessary  it  is  to  everlastingly  fight  them,  with  absolutely  proper  prepara- 
tions for  killing  them,  and  by  keeping  the  house  and  surroundings  scrupu- 
lously clean.  By  keeping  your  fowls  hard  at  work  and  in  vigorous  health 
you  will  avoid  a  great  portion  of  this  trouble,  as  lice  are  not  nearly  as  apt 
to  infest  the  thrifty,  healthy  fowl  as  the  bird  which  is  depleted  in  health  and 
strength.  Always  provide  suitable  and  sanitary  quarters  if  you  wish  the 
most  from  your  flock. 

SYMPTOMS— Fowls  troubled  with  lice  show  a  decided  restlessness. 
They  are  continually  picking,  scratching  or  dusting  themselves.  Their 
plumage  becomes  ragged  and  torn  from  constant  picking,  and  faces,  skin, 
and  combs  become  pale.  They  grow  listless,  thin,  and  finally  become  but 
skin  and  bones.  The  egg  record  grows  less  and  less  until  there  is  nothing 
to  record.  Frequently  a  dead  fowl  is  found  under  the  roost  Sitting  hens 
leave  the  nests  frequently,  and  often  forsake  them,  as  they  grow  sick  and 
are  forced  to  give  up  in  self-defence.  Little  chicks  have  bowel  trouble  and 
drop  off,  or  slowly  droop  and  die.  It  is  impossible  to  name  all  the  symptoms. 
Many  put  the  symptoms  down  as  those  of  cholera  and  other  diseases,  and 
"doctor"  their  flocks  accordingly.  They  are  unwilling  that  anyone  should 
even  suggest  the  presence  of  lice  in  their  flocks,  when  these  pests  ar<%  per- 
haps, the  only  menace  that  stands  between  them  and  success. 

TREATMENT— The  first  thing  to  do  is  to  clean  up  and  to  remove  all 
filth  and  uncleanliness  from  in  and  about  the  poultry  houses,  and  to  make 
the  quarters  neat  and  sanitary— AND  KEEP  THEM  SO.  Don't  allow  drop- 
pings to  accumulate,  and  it  is  best  to  remove  them  daily.  Droppings  boards 
under  the  roosts  are  an  absolute  necessity,  as  they  can  be  kept  clean  with  but 
very  little  labor.  This  will  put  you  in  position  to  most  effectually  use  the 
proper  remedies  for  overcoming  lice.  Provide  the  fowls  an  ample  dust  bath 
of  clean,  fresh  earth,  (not  road  dust  as  is  generally  recommended)  and  they 
will  soon  make  dust  of  it.  To  this  should  be  added  a  liberal  sprinkling  of 
CONKEY'S  LICE  POWDER. 

TO  KILL  BODY  LICE— For  successfully  fighting  body  lice,  a  gooc 
powder  is  the  most  practical  treatment.  Fowls  should  be  grasped  by  the 
legs  and  held  head  downward,  while  CONKEY'S  LICE  POWDER, 
which  is  the  best  combination  of  lice-killing  agents  known,  should  be 
thoroughly  dusted  into  the  feathers,  and  should  be  well  rubbed  into  the 
skin,  especially  among  the  fluffy  feathers. 

The  problem  has  been  to  find  a  good  lice  powder  that  at  the  same 
time  would  not  be  injurious  to  the  fowl.  CONKEY'S  LICE  POWDER 
IS  ABSOLUTELY  HARMLESS  to  the  fowl,  and  it  does  rid  the  fowls 
of  lice.  It  acts  in  two  ways,  both  by  odor  and  by  contact.  Lousy  fowls 
should  be  dusted  thoroughly  every  ten  days,  or  two  weeks,  particularly 
during  hot  weather,  as  the  nits  will  hatch  after  the  old  lice  are  killed  and 

53 


even  though  you  kill  every  louse  and  nit  on  a  towl,  it  a  single  one  manages 
later  on  to  find  lodgment  on  the  fowl's  body,  its  great  capacity  for  increase 
will  soon  cover  the  fowl  and  its  mates  again  with  lice.  Sitting  hens  should 
be  dusted  with  CONKEY'S  LICE  POWDER  several  times  as  directed,  and 
all  nests  should  be  freely  dusted. 

(One  point  to  remember  is  that  with  many  lice  preparations  there 
is  danger  of  injuring  the  fowl  or  tainting  the  eggs.  CONKEY'S 
LICE  POWDER  is  free  from  this  objection  and  can  be  safely  used 
for  dusting  setting"  hens  or  in  nests.) 

TO  KILL  HEAD  LICE — Head  lice  are  a  constant  menace  to  the  health 
of  the  adult  fowls,  and  a  greater  factor  in  the  destruction  of  little  chicks 
than  all  other  causes  combined.  They  fasten  themselves  on  the  heads  of  the 
older  fowls  and  suck  the  blood  from  a  position  just  over  the  brain.  Soon  as 
the  chicks  are  hatched,  they  catch  these  head  lice  from  the  old  hen,  or  from 
the  carelessly-kept  brooder,  and  the  lice  immediately  begin  sucking  their  life 
blood.  Unless  these  head  lice  are  destroyed  at  once,  they  become  death  war- 
rants for  a  large  portion  of  the  hatch. 

You  must  look  very  closely  for  them,  as  they  get  clear  down  to  the  base 
of  the  feathers  and  may  be  mistaken  for  pin  feathers.  Their  enormous  size 
readily  explains  their  death-dealing  power  to  little  chicks.  Chicks  raised  in 
brooders  are  frequently  troubled,  so  examine  your  chicks  carefully.  CON- 
KEY'S  HEAD  LICE  OINTMENT  is  a  clean,  non-poisonous,  nicely  per- 
fumed ointment,  which  is  perfectly  harmless  to  little  chicks  and  deadly 
to  these  murderous  lice.  A  little  is  all  that  is  needed,  and  saving  one  chick 
will  pay  you  for  all  you  would  use  on  a  hundred.  Do  not  try  to  raise  chicks 
without  it.  It  is  also  good  for  lice  on  children  should  they  happen  to  catch 
them. 

TO  KILL  MITES— For  the  destruction  of  the  much-dreaded  mite,  a 
liquid  is  far  superior  to  a  powder,  as  it  can  be  sprayed  directly  into  their  liv- 
ing places  where  a  powder  cannot  reach.  CONKEY'S  LICE  LIQUID  is  cor- 
rectly compounded,  is  always  the  same,  and  is  guaranteed  to  do  its  work 
quickly,  effectively,  and  in  a  manner  entirely  satisfactory  to  you.  This  liquid 
should  be  painted  on  the  roosts,  sprayed  over  the  droppings  boards,  nest 
boxes,  and  all  parts  of  the  building  where  there  is  any  possibility  of  Mites 
finding  a  hiding  place.  Care  should  be  taken  to  paint  the  under  sides  of 
roosts,  and  to  fill  all  cracks  and  crevices  with  the  liquid.  Not  only  will  this 
kill  the  M'ites  with  which  it  comes  in  contact,  but  its  fumes  will  get  into 
the  feathers  of  the  fowls  when  they  go  to  roost,  and  will  do  excellent  service 
in  helping  kill  the  body  lice.  It  is  a  strong  disinfectant  and  germicide  and 
its  frequent  use  will  assist  materially  in  keeping  down  disease.  It  comes  in 
different  sized  cans,  as  listed  under  the  heading  of  CONKEY'S  POULTRY 
REMEDIES. 

Before  leaving  this  subject,  we  wish  to  outline  a  very  quick,  cheap,  and 
sure  way  to  rid  yourselves  of  these  pests.  In  the  afternoon  take  out  all  litter 
and  burn  it;  then  remove  the  roosts,  nest  boxes,  and  all  apparatus  attached 
to  the  walls,  if  at  all  possible,  and  thoroughly  paint  same  with  CONKEY'S 
LICE  LIQUID.  Into  each  gallon  of  whitewash,  which  should  have  been 
prepared  ready  for  use,  mix  about  a  half  pint  of  CONKEY'S  LICE  LIQUID, 
or  CONKEY'S  NOX-I-CIDE  if  you  have  it  With  this,  thoroughly  spray 
or  paint  every  part  of  the  house.  Don't  leave  a  crack  or  crevice  that  is  not 
thoroughly  soaked  with  this  preparation.  Just  before  the  fowls  go  to  roost, 
sprinkle  each  one  with  CONKEY'S  LICE  POWDER  according  to  directions, 
immediately  putting  the  bird  carefully  on  the  roost  before  it  has  had  time 

56 


to  shake  itself.  After  treating  all  of  them  in  this  manner,  shut  the  house. 
In  an  hour  or  two,  open  the  door  or  curtain  for  a  few  minutes,  as  you  will 
find  the  house  filled  with  the  fumes  from  the  powder,  and  it  will  be  neces- 
sary to  let  in  some  fresh  air  before  closing  the  openings  for  the  night.  We 
have  known  this  plan  to  be  followed  by  those  whose  houses  and  birds  were! 
"alive"  with  lice,  with  the  result  that  the  next  day  not  a  louse  or  mite  could 
be  found  even  after  the  most  rigid  examination.  The  secret  of  keeping  these 
pests  down  lies  in  regularly  going  over  the  fowls  and  houses  carefully. 
Keeping  everlastingly  at  it  is  the  price  of  success. 

THE  DEPLUMING  MITE 

This  parasite  usually  makes  its  appearance  in  the  spring  and  summer 
and  attacks  the  roots  or  base  of  the  feathers,  which  break  off  and  leave  a 
bare  spot.  It  is  quickly  passed  from  one  fowl  to  another  and  rapidly  spreads 
through  an  entire  flock.  The  bare  spots  left  by  the  work  of  these  mites  will 
not  present  an  abnormal  appearance  but,  if  near-by  feathers  are  removed,  the 
mites  can  be  detected  at  their  base,  having  the  appearance  of  fine  dust. 

TREATMENT — All  houses,  roosts,  etc.,  should  be  gone  over  carefully 
with  whitewash,  in  which  has  been  mixed  CONKEY'S  LICE  LIQUID  or 
CONKEY'S  NOX-I-CIDE.  The  fowls  should  be  annointed  every  few  days 
with  CONKEY'S  HEAD  LICE  OINTMENT,  and  this  should  be  persisted 
in.  It  will  be  found  very  effective  to  dip  the  fowls  in  a  one-per-cent  solu- 
tion of  NOX-I-CIDE — y*  tumblerful  to  a  pail  of  water — repeating  the  opera- 
tion in  from  three  to  five  days. 

STICK-TIGHTS  OR  HEN  FLEAS 

The  Stick-tight  is  a  flea  which  is  very  annoying  in  many  of  the  southern 
states.  It  is  sometimes  called  the  Hen  Flea  and  is  a  common  pest  in  warm 
climates.  It  is  generally  found  attached  to  the  comb  and  wattles,  with  its 
head  buried  in  the  flesh.  In  many  cases  these  insects  are  so  crowded  about 
the  eyes  that  the  bird  cannot  see  to  eat.  It  is  impossible  for  the  bird  to  re- 
move them,  and,  they  cling  so  tightly  that  the  poultryman  cannot  pick  them 
off. 

TREATMENT— CONKEY'S  FLEA  SALVE  effectually  destroys  stick- 
tight  fleas  without  harming  the  bird  in  the  least  degree.  You  may  find  them 
on  the  bird  in  the  morning  after  applying,  but  they  will  be  dead  and  can 
easily  be  brushed  off.  You  must  rid  the  premises  of  them  also,  for  they  will 
be  on  the  ground  and  in  the  houses.  Spray  the  ground,  houses,  nests,  and 
roosts  with  a  solution  of  CONKEY'S  NOX-I-CIDEr-one  tumblerful  to  a 
pail  of  water,  and  keep  this  up  two  or  three  times  a  week  until  the  fleas 
have  entirely  disappeared.  Rub  CONKEY'S  FLEA  SALVE  on  the  comb 
and  wattles  where  you  can  see  the  fleas.  It  is  not  necessary  to  have  a  thick 
application,  but  only  enough  to  smear  the  fleas  thoroughly.  This  salve  will 
not  injure  the  fowl's  eyes,  and  one  application  is  usually  sufficient,  though  a 
second  may  be  necessary  in  aggravated  cases,  and  to  kill  the  nits  which  may 
hatch  out.  Fleas  breed  in  dark,  dry  places,  where  the  rain  cannot  reach,  as 
moisture  stops  this  breeding.  Deprive  the  fowls  of  all  shade  where  rain 
cannot  reach. 

Various  Diseases 

CHICKEN  POX— SORE  HEAD 

This  disease  is  known  by  different  names  in  different  localities,  such  as 
Sore  Head— Pigeon  Pox— Warts  and  Plan.  It  is  a  fungus  growth  which 


multiplies  rapidly  and  develops  in  poultry  houses  that  are  not  properly 
cleaned,  especially  where  accumulated  droppings  have  become  wet.  Moisture 
must  be  present  to  produce  the  growth.  Chicken  Pox  is  very  contagious, 
though  not  necessarily  fatal,  and  is  a  very  annoying  and  disgusting  disease, 
which  brings  down  the  general  health  of  fowls  and  opens  the  way  for  other 
diseases.  It  is  often  called  the  Small  Pox  of  the  poultry  yard.  If  allowed 
to  run,  it  leads  to  weakness  and  death. 

CAUSE — It  is  often  introduced  by  new  birds,  though  certain  conditions 
in  a  poultry  house  will  start  the  disease.  It  is  especially  noticeable  in  damp, 
cold  weather,  and  in  houses  which  are  not  kept  clean  and  dry.  It  attacks 
chickens,  turkeys,  pigeons  and  geese,  but  principally  chickens  and  pigeons. 

SYMPTOMS— Scabby  warts  on  the  comb,  lobes,  and  face.  These  are 
yellow  and  rough  and  resemble  the  common  wart.  When  broken  they  dis- 
charge a  thick  yellow  liquid. 

TREATMENT— Isolate  all  affected  birds  and  thoroughly  disinfect  the 
houses,  etc.,  with  a  solution  of  CONKEY'S  NOX-I-CIDE,  one  part  to  fifty  of 
water.  Then  dry  out  by  opening  doors  and  windows.  CONKEY'S  CHICK- 
EN POX  REMEDY  is  a  combination  salve  and  powder  which  come  in  the 
same  package.  Apply  the  salve  daily  to  affected  parts,  and  the  cure  is 
hastened  if  the  warty  growths  are  softened  with  warm  water  and  soap,  and 
the  tops  of  the  warts  are  gently  removed  with  a  blunt  instrument,  before 
.applying  the  salve.  Place  one  teaspoonful  of  the  powder  in  each  quart  of 
soft  feed,  and  give  this  to  the  birds  once  a  day  for  four  days  and  discontinue 
for  three  days.  If  necessary  to  continue  longer,  use  half  the  amount  to  each 
quart  of  feed,  keeping  it  up  for  three  days,  and  so  keep  on,  gradually  re- 
ducing the  amount. 

WHITE  COMB 

Many  confuse  this  ailment  with  Favus,  though  it  is  entirely  distinct. 
It  is  quite  a  mild  disease,  showing  an  apparent  white  powdering  of  the  comb, 
which  looks  like  flour,  or  Plaster  of  Paris.  It  sometimes  extends  over  the 
head  and  down  the  neck,  causing  the  loss  of  feathers. 

CAUSE — It  is  generally  due  to  dirty  quarters,  or  over-crowding  in 
houses,  or  a  lack  of  green  food.  A  frequent  cause  is  a  lack  of  fresh  air,  sun- 
shine, range,  etc.,  and  close  confinement.  This  is  not  of  a  fungoid  origin, 
and  is  not  as  highly  contagious  as  Chicken  Pox  and  Favus. 

TREATMENT — White  Comb  succumbs  to  the  same  treatment  as 
Chicken  Pox  and  Favus,  and  CONKEY'S  CHICKEN  POX  REMEDY  will 
be  found  efficacious. 

INFECTIOUS  LEUKAEMIA: 

This  is  not  an  uncommon  disease,  but  one  which  is  little  understood  or 
suspected  by  the  average  poultryman.  It  is  caused  by  bacteria  which  are 
bred  and  nourished  by  unsanitary  and  foul  conditions  in  brooders,  poultry 
houses,  yards,  etc.  It  is  contagious  and  fatal. 

.  SYMPTOMS — Loss  of  strength,  dullness  and  drowsiness.  The  tempera- 
ture is  two  or  three  degrees  higher  than  normal.  The  effect  of  the  disease  is 
to  increase  the  white  and  decrease  the  red  corpuscles  of  the  blood  and,  as  a 
.consequence,  the  comb,  wattles,  skin,  and  all  visible  mucous  membranes,  such 

58 


as  those  of  the  mouth  and  head  passages,  become  pale.  Death  usually  occurs 
in  from  four  to  five  days,  though  life  may  be  prolonged  for  several  weeks. 

TREATMENT — Poultry  premises  should  have  a  thorough  cleaning  and 
•everything  about  the  place  should  be  thoroughly  disinfected  with  CONKEY'S 
NOX-I-CIDE,  one  part  NOX-I-CIDE  to  100  of  water.  This  must  be  re- 
peated daily  until  the  disease  is  checked,  and  the  utmost  cleanliness  must  be 
observed.  Only  clean,  pure,  wholesome  food  should  be  given,  and  drinking 
water  must  be  frequently  changed,  and  should  be  given  in  fountains  which 
will  keep  out  the  filth  and  droppings  from  the  birds.  CONKEY'S  POUL- 
TRY TONIC  should  be  fed  daily  in  the  mash. 

FAVUS 

This  disease  is  a  growth  of  the  fungus  known  as  "Achorion  Schoneinii." 
This  same  fungus  has  been  known  to  attack  man,  as  well  as  dogs,  cats,  mice, 

rabbits  and  horses.  It  is  easily  acquired  and 
may  attack  the  most  healthy  fowl.  It  is 
highly  contagious. 

CAUSE— This  growth  may  start  in  damp 
and  ill-ventilated  quarters,  or  it  may  be  ac- 
quired by  horses  rubbing  against  infected  trees 
or  posts  and  communicating  it  to  fowls  by 
infection  in  the  stables. 

SYMPTOMS— Small  white  or  gray  spots 
on  the  comb,  round  or  irregular,  from  the 
size  of  a.  pin-head  to  that  of  a  dime.  They 
extend  in  size  and  increase  in  numbers  until 
nearly  all  the  skin  of  the  affected  part  is  cov- 
ered. They  then  form  in  a  thin  scale  or 
crust  on  the  surface  of  the  skin.  This  crust 
thickens  as  the  disease  advances  and  be- 
comes cup-shaped  in  form;  that  is,  raised  on 
the  edges  and  depressed  in  the  centers,  and  it 
will  keep  on  until  the  deposit  may  be  a  quarter 
of  an  inch  in  thickness.  While  confined  to 

Illustration  No.  33.  the  comb  and  head,  Favus  may  be  very  suc- 

cessfully treated  but,  if  allowed  to  run  until 

it  begins  to  appear  in  the  region  of  the  vent,  it  is  difficult  to  cure  and  birds 
may  die  of  debility.  In  handling  cases  of  genuine  Favus,  considerable  care 
should  be  taken.  While  the  fungus  of  Favus  will  not  attack  the  healthy 
human  skin,  a  slight  crack,  cut,  or  abrasion  may  become  infected  and  turn 
into  an  ugly  sore. 

TREATMENT — The  same  treatment  as  in  Chicken  Pox,  which  Favus 
much  resembles,  will  be  found  effective. 

DROPSY 

This  is  due  to  the  accumulation  of  water  or  liquid,  usually  in  the 
abdominal  cavity,  and  can  be  easily  detected  by 'the  distention  and  by 
feeling  the  parts.  The  swelling  will  not  be  hard,  but  will  easily  yield 
to  pressure,  only  to  bulge  out  at  another  point.  Affected  fowls  will  lose 
appetite  and  have  every  symptom  of  general  debility, 

TREATMENT  is  very  unprofitable  and  unsatisfactory. 

59 


FROSTED  COMB 

There  is  no  remedy  for  a  frosted  comb  if  it  is  allowed  to  thaw  and 
become  black.  It  is,  therefore,  necessary  that  active  treatment  should  be 
given  as  soon  as  noticed. 

TREATMENT— Where  snow  can  be  obtained  apply  the  same  with  the 
hand,  holding  it  to  the  comb  until  all  frost  has  been  extracted.  Then 
annoint  the  comb  with  CONKEY'S  HEALING  SALVE,  kneading  it  gently 
while  applying.  If  carefully  attended  to,  only  the  extreme  tips  of  the  comb 
need  be  lost  and  possibly  you  may  be  able  to  save  the  comb  intact. 

LEG  WEAKNESS 

This  is  usually  caused  by  forcing  the  growth  of  the  chick  too  rapidly, 
especially  broilers,  and  not  providing  in  the  ration  sufficient  muscle-producing 
material.  Another  frequent  cause  is  improper  temperature  in  the  brooder. 
Where  there  is  too  much  bottom  heat,  this  trouble  will  be  encountered.  This 
is  also  found  in  cases  of  metallic  poisoning,  birds  losing  entire  control  of 
their  legs. 

SYMPTOMS — The  name  is  a  good  indication  of  the  nature  of  the 
trouble.  The  fowl  walks,  or  stands,  with  difficulty,  and  it  may  sit  down 
while  eating.  This  is  sometimes  taken  for  rheumatism,  but  in  leg  weakness 
the  shank  remains  soft,  while  in  rheumatism  it  dries  up  and  becomes  hard 
and  contracted. 

TREATMENT — If  the  cause  is  improper  heat  in  the  brooder,  change 
it.  If  improper  feeding,  build  up  the  general  health  by  discontinuing  heavy 
carbonaceous  foods,  such  as  cornmeal,  bran,  corn,  etc.,  and  give  wheatbran, 
boiled  beans,  Canadian  peas,  together  with  meat  meal  and  a  goodly  supply 
of  alfalfa  or  clover  ^meal  in  the  mash.  CONKEY'S  POULTRY  TONIC 
should  be  fed  daily  in  mash,  and  rusty  nails,  or  old  iron,  put  in  drinking 
water.  Cut  down  the  food  supply,  as  overfeeding  is  a  most  frequent  cause. 
In  case  of  poisoning,  give  milk,  whites  of  eggs,  or  some  good  emulsion  of 
cod  liver  oil,  daily. 

RHEUMATISM 

This  disease  is  much  the  same  as  in  the  human  family  and,  while  it  is 
not  fatal,  it  keeps  the  fowls  in  a  totally  unprofitable  condition. 

CAUSE — Rheumatism  is  occasioned  by  exposure  to  dampness,  cold 
weather,  or  may  be  due  to  poorly  constructed  houses,  improper  care  and 
feeding,  etc. 

SYMPTOMS — It  is  indicated  by  stiffness  of  the  joints  with  more  or 
less  contraction  of  the  muscles.  Birds  walk  stiffly  and  lame,  and  lack  energy 
and  activity. 

TREATMENT — Provide  dry,  bright  quarters.  A  large  amount  of 
green  food  should  be  given,  particularly  alfalfa  or  clover,  and  very  little 
meat  or  animal  food  should  be  fed.  CONKEY'S  RHEUMATIC  REMEDY 
is  very  effective  in  relieving  the  fowls  from  this  trouble  and  restoring  them 
to  health  and  usefulness. 

APOPLEXY 

Apoplexy  is  the  result  of  a  ruptured  blood  vessel  of  the  brain,  and  the 
pressure  of  the  blood  that  escapes  therefrom. 

60 


CAUSE — It  is  caused  by  violent  exertion,  fright  and  by  great  straining 
while  laying  eggs — hens  being  sometimes  found  dead  on  the  nests.  They 
will  occasionally  be  attacked  while  on  the  roost  and  drop  off,  or  may  sud- 
denly fall  and  die  when  in  the  yard. 

TREATMENT — Very  little,  if  anything,  can  be  done  for  the  cure  of 
this  trouble.  Preventive  treatment  is  the  best  and,  for  this,  see  that  fowls 
have  plenty  of  exercise  and  a  properly  balanced  ration  in  proper  quantities. 
If  you  wish  to  attempt  treatment,  follow  directions  under  "Congestion  of  the 
Brain". 

CONGESTION  OF  THE  BRAIN 

Like  apoplexy,  this  is  not  a  common  disease,  and  yet  some  poultrymen's 
birds  suffer  to  quite  an  extent  from  it  Over-fat  birds  are  the  principal 
victims,  though  exposure  to  extremely  hot  rays  of  the  sun  will  produce  it. 
You  will  usually  find  intestinal  worms  present  in  affected  birds. 

SYMPTOMS — Giddiness,  convulsions,  and  uncertainty  in  walking.  The 
head  is  thrown  backward  and  upward.  Sometimes  the  bird  will  appear 
drowsy  and  stupefied. 

TREATMENT — Provide  a  quiet,  cool,  and  sanitary  place  for  the  bird. 
Apply  very  cold  water  or  ice  to  the  head,  as  it  is  important  to  reduce  the 
temperature.  Give  a  good  dose  of  CONKEY'S  POULTRY  LAXATIVE 
and  repeat  if  necessary.  If  you  see  evidence  of  intestinal  worms  treat  as 
suggested  under  that  heading. 

FITS 

The  cause  of  this  disease  is  more  or  less  guess  work.  It  may  be  due 
to  the  pressure  of  worms  in  the  intestines,  or  to  pressure  on  the  brain.  The 
fowl  will  be  subject  to  convulsions  and  unconsciousness,  but  may  gradually 
recover  and  become  apparently  well. 

TREATMENT — Little  or  nothing  can  be  done  unless  the  trouble  is 
due  to  worms,  in  which  case  treat  as  indicated  under  that  heading.  If  this 
does  not  cure,  it  is  best  to  kill  the  fowl. 

BUMBLE  FOOT 

This  is  no  more  or  less  than  a  stone  bruise,  and  is  generally  caused  by 
the  fowl  jumping  from  the  roost  on  to  some  hard  substance,  thereby  bruising 
the  foot,  although  it  may  be  caused  in  other  ways. 

SYMPTOMS — It  is  indicated  by  a  hard,  calloused  substance  on  the 
bottom  of  the  foot.  This  will  become  inflamed,  causing  much  irritation  and 
suffering.  The  fowl  will  favor  this  foot  while  walking  or  running  and 
rests  the  foot  while  standing. 

TREATMENT — If  you  notice  it  in  its  early  stages,  before  pus  has 
formed  underneath  the  surface,  the  difficulty  may  be  overcome  by  soaking 
the  foot  in  warm  water,  paring  off  the  hard  substance,  and  painting  it  with 
tincture  of  iodine;  but  if  pus  has  formed,  then  an  incision  should  be  made 
into  the  pus  cavity  with  a  sharp  knife  which  has  previously  been  dipped 
in  a  solution  of  NOX-I-CIDE  and  water.  The  hard  substance  should  be 
pared  off,  the  wound  should  be  carefully  washed  with  NOX-I-CIDE 
solution  and,  when  dry,  CONKEY'S  HEALING  POWDER  should  be 

61 


applied.  The  foot  should  then  be  so  wrapped  up  with  cotton  cloth  as  to 
protect  the  wound  and  keep  out  all  foreign  matter.  The  pen  should  be 
covered  with  fresh,  clean  straw  to  prevent  further  injury.  It  is  well  to  dress 
the  wound  once  a  day  for  several  days,  until  it  is  fairly  well  healed.  Study 
the  original  cause  of  this  trouble  and  remedy  it. 

WIND  PUFF  (AIR  BLISTER) 

This  appears  mostly  in  little  chicks.  Its  cause  is  an  open  question.  It 
may  be  recognized  by  a  puffing  up  of  the  skin,  air  being  present  underneath. 
Puncture  the  skin  with  a  needle,  or  sharp,  thin  knife,  and  if  this  does  not 
effect  a  cure,  cut  out  a  small  piece  of  the  skin  and  apply  CONKEY'S 
HEALING  POWDER  to  the  surface. 

CUTS,  BRUISES,  BURNS,  ETC 

Birds  are  liable  to  these  accidents  and  it  is  well  to  attend  to  them 
immediately,  as  such  wounds  permit  the  entrance  of  bacteria  to  the  system, 
which  might  prove  fatal. 

TREATMENT— Wash  the  affected  part  with  a  solution  of  CON- 
KEY'S  NOX-I-CIDE,  two  teaspoonfuls  to  a  quart  of  warm  water.  Allow 
to  dry  and  then  apply  CONKEY'S  HEALING  POWDER.  Repeat  every 
other  day  until  cured.  If  you  have  not  the  NOX-I-CIDE,  use  Castile  soap 
and  warm  water,  applying  CONKEY'S  HEALING  POWDER  as  above. 
You  will  not  only  prevent  complications,  but  you  will  be  surprised  at  the 
speedy  recovery.  Fowls  should  be  separated  and  placed  in  coop  containing 
litter  of  clean,  dry  straw,  or  similar  material,  so  that  foreign  matter  cannot 
enter  into  the  sores. 

BROKEN  LEGS 

Fractures  sometimes  occur  even  in  the  best-regulated  poultry  yards.  ^  If 
a  little  chick,  or  growing  fowl,  is  the  sufferer,  it  may  be  cured  by  bringing 
the  broken  parts  together  and  winding  around  the  leg  a  piece  of  clean 
cotton  cloth.  Use  toothpicks,  or  larger  pieces  of  wood,  for  splints  or 
supports,  and  bandage  these  between  the  layers  of  cloth.  A  half  dozen 
winding  will  be  enough.  Sew  firmly  to  the  bandage  and  allow  them  to 
remain  until  the  leg  is  healed.  It  will  take  but  a  short  time.  It  is  not 
wise  to  try  this  with  heavy  fowls,  or  to  treat  broken  bones  other  than  those 
of  the  legs.  If  there  is  an  abrasion  of  the  surface,  it  would  be  well  to 
wash  it  with  a  weak  solution  of  CONKEY'S  NOX-I-CIDE  before  dressing. 

MOLTING 

Molting  is  shedding  the  feathers.  This  is  a  natural  function  which 
should  occur  annually.  It  is  a  very  trying  period  on  the  bird,  and  every- 
thing possible  should  be  done  to  lessen  the  suffering  and  to  shorten  the 
period.  Some  advocate  feeding  nothing  for  a  week  or  ten  days,  thus 
forcing -the  feathers  to  be  dropped  quickly;  then,  after  the  feathers  have 
been  dropped,  to  feed  heavily,  especially  with  animal  foods,  and  those 
containing  a  high  percentage  of  protein. 

We  think  it  best  to  underfeed  slightly  and  to  give  simple  foods.  See 
that  a  liberal  supply  of  green  food,  such  as  clover  or  alfalfa,  is  given.  Give 
warm  mashes  in  the  morning,  putting  in  a  teaspoonful  of  CONKEY'S  POUL- 
TRY TONIC  to  each  quart  and  making  the  mash  crumbly.  Feed  grain 
in  the  litter  and  make  the  fowls  work.  It  will  be  found  of  great  value  to 
put  in  each  mash  a  quantity  of  linseed  meal.  A  plentiful  supply  of  beef 


scrap,  or  similar  animal  food,  should  be  kept  before  the  fowls,  especially 
after  the  feathers  have  been  dropped  and  new  ones  begin  to  come  in.  This 
is  of  the  greatest  importance.  Keep  the  fowls  free  from  lice  and  provide 
them  with  clean,  dry,  and  sanitary  quarters.  Remember  that  the  fowls' 
vitality  is  low  at  this  period,  and  they  are  therefore  peculiarly  susceptible 
to  disease.  CONKEY'S  POULTRY  TONIC  will  keep  up  the  strength  and 
protect  your  flock. 

Injurious  Habits  and  Vices 

EGG  EATING 

While  this  is  more  of  a  habit  than  a  disease,  it  is  often  caused  by  a 
physical  longing  for  oyster  shell,  or  other  lime-containing,  shell-making 
material,  and  the  absence  of  sufficient  animal  food  in  the  diet.  It  is  a  most 
annoying  and  expensive  habit  and  a  difficult  one  ir>  break.  No  sooner  is 
there  an  egg  laid  than  it  is  eagerly  eaten,  and  r*^  fowl  quickly  teaches 
the  others  until  a  number  in  the  flock  may  be  seen  tc  rush  for  an  egg  as 
soon  as  it  is  deposited  in  the  nest. 

TREATMENT— One  of  the  best  methods  is  to  make  a  F«.nall  incision 
in  either  end  of  an  egg  and  allow  the  contents  to  run  out.  Then  make  a 
mixture  of  soft  soap  and  red  pepper  and  refill  the  egg,  closing  the  ends 
with  court  plaster  and  placing  a  number  in  the  nests  where  the  fowls  can 
get  at  them.  If  these  are  eaten,  fill  others.  It  should  not  take  long  to 
sicken  the  fowls  of  the  habit.  If  you  will  see  that  fowls  are  kept  busy,  that 
shell-making  material  is  provided,  such  as  oyster  shell,  mortar,  bone  etc., 
and  that  the  nests  are  dark  and  well  supplied  with  straw,  you  will  have  but 
little  trouble  from  this  cause.  Remember  to  darken  nests  as  much  as 
practicable,  have  china  nest  eggs,  and  always  collect  freshly-laid  eggs  as 
quickly  as  possible.  BEAR  IN  MIND  THAT  THERE  IS  A  DIFFER- 
ENCE BETWEEN  SHELL-MAKING  MATERIAL  AND  GRIT.  THE 
FOWLS  NEED  BOTH  AND  NO  ONE  SUBSTANCE  WILL  ANSWER 
FOR  BOTH  PURPOSES. 

FEATHER  EATING 

This  is  a  bad  habit  and  is  usually  caused  by  a  desire  for  meat  or  insect 
food,  giving  too  much  carbonaceous  food,  and  a  lack  of  exercise.  Rarely 
does  this  habit  develop  among  fowls  that  have  free  range,  or  that  are  fed 
balanced  rations. 

TREATMENT— Give  the  fowls  more  range  if  possible.  Spade  up 
the  yard,  bury  the  grain  food  in  the  loose  earth  and  make  the  fowls  work 
for  it.  When  grain  is  fed  in  the  evening,  scatter  the  same  in  the  litter.  In 
winter  feed  grain  in  deep  litter.  Provide  plenty  of  animal  food.  Never 
feed  enough  to  make  fowls  lazy.  Keep  them  busy — thinking  of  something 
else. 

PREVENTION  OF  DISEASE 

"An  ounce  of  prevention  is  worth  a  pound  of  cure"  is  a  saying 
that  has  proved  its  truth  by  years  of  demonstration.  Most  of  the  diseases 
of  poultry  can  be  traced  to  carelessness  or  to  unsanitary  and  dirty  quarters. 
While  the  housing,  feeding,  etc.,  must  be  given  due  attention,  cleanliness  is 
of  paramount  importance. 

Disease  germs  are  found  wherever  filth  and  dirt  abound.  Even  though 
the  droppings  of  the  fowls  are  frequently  removed,  it  is  not  all  that  should 

63 


be  done  to  render  the  premises  sanitary.  A  liquid  disinfectant  should  always 
be  kept  on  hand /and,  while  absolutely  effective,  it  must  be  perfectly  harmless 
to  the  stock.  This  should  be  sprayed  in  and  about  the  houses,  pens,  barns, 
etc.,  AFTER  A  THOROUGH  CLEANING  HAS  TAKEN  PLACE.  A 
disinfectant  is  not  a  labor-saver  for  a  lazy  man,  but  a  money-maker  for  the 
industrious  and  careful  man.  IT  IS  NOT  INTENDED  TO  COVER  UP 
FILTH,  and  will  not  take  the  place  of  the  shovel  and  the  hoe,  but  it  will 
deodorize,  kill  the  germs,  and  make  everything  sweet  and  wholesome  after 
the  filth  has  been  removed. 

The  germ  theory  of  disease  has  ceased  to  be  a  theory — it  has  proved 
itself  to  be  a  fact!  Once  the  germ  is  introduced,  disease  will  continue 
until  the  germs  have  been  exterminated.  Nothing  equals  a  proper  disin- 
fectant. Realizing  the  necessity  of  an  article  that  could  be  absolutely  relied 
upon,  and  would  be  so  inexpensive  that  the  cost  would  cut  but  little  figure, 
and  that  would  be  easy  to  apply,  we  have  placed  on  the  market^CONKEY'S 
NOX-I-CIDE,  a  soluble  deodorant  and  germ  destroyer  that  is  unequaled, 
anywhere,  for  strength  and  efficiency.  It  is  of  the  greatest  value  for  dis- 
infecting poultry  houses,  runs,  brooders,  dog  kennels,  stables,  cesspools, 
sinks,  drains,  slop-bowls,  and  for  household  use  and  sick-rooms.  See 
description  on  another  page,  and  send  for  special  booklet  on  CONKEY'S 
NOX-I-CIDE. 

Conkey's  Poultry  Remedies 

The  nature  of  poultry  diseases  has  been  our  study  for  years,  and  our 
researches  have  been  so  thorough  and  practical,  that  we  are  the  acknowledged 
authority  along  that  line,  while  our  remedies  have  become  standard  in  every 
civilized  country  of  the  world.  Many  have  put  out  "cure-alls,"  which  they 
recommend  alike  for  various  classes  of  disease,  while  common  sense  pre- 
scribes a  separate  and  specific  remedy  and  treatment  for  each  particular 
disease.  We  have  not  made  our  investigations  on  general  lines,  but  have 
studied  each  disease  by  itself  and  in  its  proper  relation  to  other  diseases, 
and  on  this  logical  basis  we  have  compounded  our  remedies.  They  do  not 
work  in  a  roundabout  way,  or  in  a  general  manner,  but  each  finds  its  way 
immediately  to  the  seat  of  trouble  to  reach  the  disease  at  once. 

The  greatest  secret  of  curing  disease  is  to  apply  the  remedy  in  the 
earlier  stages,  and  we  have  put  up  our  remedies  in  such  convenient  form 
that  they  can  be  administered  at  once  and  with  the  least  inconvenience. 
They  are  inexpensive  and  should  be  kept  on  hand,  so  that  they  can  be  used 
at  the  logical  moment  without  waiting  to  send  for  them. 

Because  of  the  excellence  of  our  remedies,  we  positively  guarantee  them, 
not  only  to  be  exactly  as  represented,  and  to  do  just  what  we  claim  for 
them,  BUT  TO  PLEASE  YOU  and,  if  they  fail  to  satisfy  you,  for  any 
reason,  we  will  refund  your  money  cheerfully  without  the  least  argument  or 
red  tape. 

FREE  ADVICE 

Many  poultrymen  have  trouble  recognizing  certain  diseases  among  their 
fowls.  We  have  therefore  opened  A  BUREAU  OF  INFORMATION 
which  will  furnish,  ABSOLUTELY  FREE  OF  CHARGE,  advice  regarding 
any  sick  fowls,  with  diagnosis  and  prescription  and  directions  for  general 
care  and  treatment.  WRITE  TO  US  AT  ANY  TIME.  YOUR  WANTS 
WILL  HAVE  PROMPT  ATTENTION  AND  THE  BEST  ADVICE 
THAT  WE  CAN  OFFER. 

04 


COMMON  MEASURES 

(Approximate) 

60  drops  equal  1  teaspoonful. 
4  teaspoonfuls   equal    1    tablespoonful. 
8  teaspoonfuls  equal  1  ounce. 
4  ounces  equal  1  gill. 
4  gills  equal  1  pint. 

2  pints  equal  1  quart. 

4  quarts  equal  1  gallon. 

3  gallons  (about)   equal  1  pailful. 

How  to  Make  a  1%  Solution  (1   Part  to  100). 

y2  teaspoonful  to  1  tumbler  (about  8  oz.)  of  water. 

1  teaspoonful  to  1  pint  of  water. 

8  teaspoonfuls  to  1  gallon  of  water. 
y2  tumbler  to  1  pail  of  water. 

1  tumbler  (8  oz.)  to  6y&  gallons  of  water. 

1  pint  to  12^4  gallons  of  water. 

CONKEY'S  ROUP  REMEDY— This  truly  superior  remedy  is  used 
in  every  civilized  country  of  the  world.  It  is  the  old  stand-by.  Until  it 
was  brought  out  Roup  was  considered  incurable.  Innumerable  trials 
under  every  condition  and  in  every  climate  prove  its 
effectiveness  if  given  in  anything  like  reasonable  time. 
THIS  REMEDY  SHOULD  BE  KEPT  ON  HAND 
so  that  you  do  not  have  to  wait  and  let  your  fowls  die 
before  applying  it.  Fowls  are  many  times  cured  of 
Roup,  even  in  more  advanced  stages,  by  dipping  their 
heads  according  to  special  directions  with  package. 
Even  in  very  bad  cases  if  the  remedy  can  be  made  to 
reach  the  membranes  of  head  and  throat  passages,  it 
will  prove  successful,  providing  that  the  fowl  has 
enough  vitality  left  for  any  foundation.  If  attended  to 
earlier,  you  avoid  the  trouble  of  individual  treatment. 
CONKEY'S  ROUP  REMEDY  is  also  excellent  for 
Turkeys.  We  especially  recommend  it  for  CANKER 
IN  PIGEONS.  If  your  poultry  supply  dealer  or  drug- 
gist cannot  supply  you,  send  to  us  direct.  Prices  50c 
and  $1.00,  post-paid. 

CpNKEY'S  BRONCHITIS  REMEDY  —  Bron- 
chitis is  an  inflammation  of  the  membranes  of  the  bron- 
chial tubes.  Very  often  it  is  confused  with  Roup.  While 
it  often  appears  in  a  flock  where  there  is  Roup,  it  is  a 
distinct  disease  and  calls  for  treatment  with  a  special 
remedy. 

The  careful  discrimination  between  this  disease 
and  genuine  Roup  will  save  you  many  a  fowl  besides* 
the  useless  trouble  of  treating  for  one  disease  when  it 
is  entirely  another.  Price  50c  post-paid. 

65 


CONKEY'S  CHOLERA  REMEDY— When  a  fowl  is  attacked  by 
diseases  of  the  digestive  organs,  there  is  a  loss  of  appetite  and  a  greatly 
increased  thirst;  therefore  we  have  put  out  this  remedy  in  such  a  form 
that  it  must  be  given  in  the  drinking  water.  As  the  fever  creates  a  con- 
tinuous and  violent  desire  i'or  water,  the  logic  of  this  treatment  can  be 
appreciated.  Most  of  the  so-called  cholera  remedies  on 
the  market  are  powders  directed  to  be  given  in  the  food. 
Realizing  the  utter  absurdity  of  trying  to  cure  the  fowl 
in  that  manner,  since  the  sick  bird  loses  its  appetite  for 
food  we  have  put  out  CONKEY'S  CHOLERA  REMEDY 
in  such  a  form  that  the  fowl  will  take  its  own  medi- 
cine. This  preparation  is  entirely  different  from  any- 
thing else  ever  put  out,  and  can  be  absolutely  relied 
upon  as  the  most  dependable  Cholera  Remedy  made. 
It  has  a  soothing,  cooling  effect  on  the  hot  and  in- 
flamed membranes  and  reduces  the  fever  at  once.  For 
the  treatment  of  Cholera,  Indigestion,  Bowel  Trouble, 
Diarrhoea,  and  all  kindred  troubles  in  chicks  or  grown 
fowls,  this  remedy  is  excellent.  CONKEY'S  CHOL- 
ERA REMEDY  is  a  common-sense  insurance  against 
a  great  variety  of  the  troubles  known  to  poultrymen.  It  should  be  kept 
on  hand  by  everyone  who  raises  little  chicks,  as  it  will  be  needed  at  once 
on  appearance  of  indigestion  or  bowel  trouble.  We  guarantee  '  it  to 
satisfy  you.  Prices  25c  and  50c  postpaid. 


CONKEY'S  CHICKEN  POX  (Sorehead)  REMEDY— It  is  a  reli- 
able remedy  for  a  disgusting  and  dangerous  disease.  Chicken  pox  is 
known  in  different  localities  by  entirely  different  names,  being  called  Pian, 
Sore-head,  Warts,  and  Pigeon  Pox.  They  are  all  the  same  contagious 
and  loathsome  disease  and  can  be  cured  if  taken  in  anything  like  proper 
time. 

It  is  very  important  in  treating  this  disease  that  absolute  cleanliness 
should  be  considered  and,  while  we  sell  CONKEY'S 
NOX-I-CIDE  in  separate  packages  and  for  a  separate 
price,  it  should  be  considered  an  important  part  of  the 
treatment  for  Chicken  Pox.  Unless  you  clean  and  disin- 
fect the  house  so  as  to  kill  the  disease  germs,  a  fresh 
outbreak  is  liable  to  occur  at  any  time. 

The  salve  is  applied  to  the  warty  growths  according 
to  directions,  while  the  powder  is  given  in  the  soft  feed 
to  drive  the  disease  from  the  blood.  You  will  find  it  a 
very  successful  treatment  and  will  never  use  another 
after  a  thorough  knowledge  of  its  effectiveness  in  com- 
batting this  annoying  and  nauseating  disease,  which  is 
well  named  the  "Small  Pox"  of  the  poultry  yard. 
Prices  50c  or  55c,  postpaid. 


CONKEY'S  LIMBER  NECK  REMEDY— Limber  neck  may  prove 
to  be  a  very  fatal  disease,  as  it  takes  but  a  little  time  to  terminate  in  death 
if  a  remedy  is  not  at  hand.  We  would  certainly  advise  poultrymen  to  provide 
themselves  with  a  package  of  CONKEY'S  LIMBER  NECK  REMEDY  at 
once,  and  not  to  wait  until  the  disease  is  established  and  they  learn  its  fatal 

"66 


nature  by  costly  experience.  In  the  first  place  it  is  a 
very  easy  matter  for  the  fowls  to  acquire  this  disease. 
It  is  a  ptomaine  poisoning  which  comes  from  the  fowls 
eating  putrefying  flesh.  A  dead  rat  under  the  barn,  or  a 
dead  fowl  in  some  out-of-the-way  corner,  may  cause  this 
deadly  ailment  when  you  are  not  prepared  to  meet  it 
and,  before  you  can  send  and  procure  the  remedy,  many 
of  your  fowls  are  past  saving.  While  Limber  Neck  is 
terribly  fatal  when  no  remedy  is  available,  it  is  a  very 
easy  disease  to  master  when  CONKEY'S  LIMBER 
NECK  REMEDY  is  at  hand,  and  we  are  receiving  en- 
dorsements from  many  poultrymen  who  have  cured 
their  fowls,  though  they  have  believed  this  disease  in- 
curable in  years  past,  because  they  did  not  have  the 
remedy  on  hand.  DON'T  LET  IT  BE  TOO  QUICK 
FOR  YOU,  but  insure  your  flocks  by  having  it  on  your 
shelf.  One  day's  treatment  should  result  in  decided  improvement. 
CONKEY'S  LIMBER  NECK  REMEDY  is  a  special  remedy  for  this 
one  disease  only.  Do  not  be  deceived  by  substitution  of  anything  that 
is  claimed  to  cure  both  this  and  other  diseases.  The  age  of  cure-alls  has 
passed  and  poultrymen  are  realizing  that  each  disease  should  have  its 
special  remedy.  Prices,  50c  or  55c,  postpaid. 

CONKEY'S  SCALY  LEG  REMEDY— Scaly  Leg  is  a  parasitic  dis- 
ease— the  parasites  burrowing  under  the  scales  of  the 
legs  and  feet  as  described  on  page  53.  Scaly  leg  is 
very  contagious.  It  is  not  fatal,  but  it  ruins  the  ap- 
pearance of  the  birds  and  also  saps  their  vitality 
and  usefulness.  This  remedy  is  simple  to  apply  and 
is  guaranteed  to  cure.  It  is  also  excellent  as  a  dress- 
ing for  the  feet  and  legs  of  show  birds,  increasing: 
their  "point"  value,  and  putting  them  in  the  very 
best  possible  condition  as  prize  winners.  Price,  25c. 


CONKEY'S  GAPE  REMEDY  —  This  is  a  reliable  remedy  for 
this  extremely  troublesome  disease.  Many  people  have  experimented  with 
irritating  powders,  fumes,  smoke,  etc.,  but  have  found  them  not  only  inef- 
fectual, but  positively  dangerous  to  the  fowls.  They  have 
also  used  extractors,  horsehairs,  wires,  etc.,  with  no  great- 
er satisfaction. 

In  CONKEY'S  GAPE  REMEDY  we  have  a  prep- 
aration guaranteed  to  do  the  work  and  satisfy  you.  This 
remedy  tones  up  the  system,  and  acting  through  the  cir- 
culation it  is  brought  into  contact  with  the  worms.  Gapes 
is  such  a  dangerous  disease  that  we  advise  you  never 
to  be  without  this  remedy  when  you  have  little  chicks. 
Given  occasionally  in  the  feed,  it  will  be  found  an  ex- 
cellent preventive.  Prices,  50c  or  60c,  postpaid. 

Among  ihe   different  chick   diseases   there   is   not   one 
which   causes    the    poultryman   more   annoyance.     We    feel 
gratified  to  be  able  to  offer  you  a  preparation  of  genuine  merit  in   CON- 
KEY'S  GAPE  REMEDY. 

67 


CONKEY'S  WHITE  DIARRHOEA  REMEDY— This  is  one  of  the 

most  helpful  articles  ever  put  out.  Thousands  and  thousands  of  little 
chicks  die  each  year  from  this  fatal  White-  Diarrhoea.  The  disease  long 
baffled  scientists  and  practical  poultrymen  alike.  Many  are  still  arguing  a,s 
to  just  what  causes  this  fatal  pasty  discharge  which  each  year  carries  off 
a  large  percentage  of  all  chicks  hatched.  Whether  it  is  the  germs  Coc- 
cidium  tennelum  or  the  Bacterium  Pullorum  scientists  may  argue,  but 
we  know  this:  CONKEY'S  WHITE  DIARRHOEA  REMEDY  in  the 
drinking  water  acts  on  the  specific  organism  which  causes  the  disease 
and  saves  the  hatch. 

As  cautioned  Page  43  every  effort  should  be  made  to  prevent  this 
disease  getting  a  start  in  the  flock.  Care  should  be  taken  to  select  eggs 
from  good  stock  and  then  to  treat  these  eggs  before  setting  them  in 
the  incubator.  Wiping  with  95%  grain  alcohol  is  usually  recommended, 
but  dipping  the  tray  of  eggs  boldly  in  a  3%  solution  of  Conkey's  Nox-i- 
cide  will  answer  the  same  purpose  and  be  found  much  less  expensive  as 
well  as  more  convenient.  To  make  a  3%  solution  use  2  tablespoonful.s 
Conkey's  Nox-i-cide  to  each  quart  of  water.  Of  course  the  solution 
should  be  warm  when  used.  To  sterilize  the  incubator,  brooder,  etc., 
use  a  stronger  solution,  about  10%  Nox-i-cide, 

After  the  chicks  are  hatched  use  Conkey's  White  Diarrhoea  Rem- 
edy in  the  drinking  water  from  the  start,  and  thus  avoid  infection. 

This  is  preventive.  But  even  after  the  disease  gets  a  start  in  the 
flock  the  chicks  can  be  treated  successfully,  by  the  use  of  Conkey's 
White  Diarrhoea  Remedy  in  the  drinking  water.  The  water  remains 
pleasant  to  the  taste,  so  the  chicks  will  take  it  readily.  Even  in  bad 
cases,  when  chicks  are  gummed  at  the  vent,  the  treatment  is  success- 
ful, provided  the  hardened  accumulation  around  the  vent  is  removed 
very  carefully,  as  explained  page  25  and  the  White  Diarrhoea  Rem- 
edy used  in  the  drinking  water. 

Never  take  chances  with  White  Diarrhoea.  Have  a  package  of 
Conkey's  White  Diarrhoea  Remedy  on  hand  and  use  it  for  prevention. 
We  guarantee  satisfaction  whether  used  as  a  preventive  or  as  a  rem- 
edy. Prices,  25c  and  50c  postpaid. 

CONKEY'S  POULTRY  TONIC— is  a  remedy  espe- 
cially valuable  for  fowls  run  down,  off  feed,  recovering 
from  disease,  or  during  moulting  season.  It  is  also  excel- 
lent for  little  chicks  which  do  not  seem  to  thrive.  This  is 
made  to  meet  a  growing  demand  for  a  tonic  to  be  given 
in  cases  which  are  not  thoroughly  classified  or  under- 
stood. It  is  a  general  invigorator,  quickly  bringing  birds 
to  a  normal  condition.  Prices,  25c  or  30c  postpaid. 

CONKEY'S  BLACKHEAD  REMEDY— A  special 
remedy  for  Blackhead  (Entero-hepatitis).  This  has  been 
used  many  times  and  in  many  places  with  most  excel- 
lent results  and  is  guaranteed  to  please  you.  Price,  50c 
postpaid. 

CONKEY'S    RHEUMATIC    REMEDY— This    is    a 

highly  successful  combination  treatment  consisting  of 
a  powder  to  be  taken  internally,  and  a  liniment  for  apptying  direct  to 
the  affected  part.  It  will  be  found  dependable  if  used  according  to  direc- 
tions. Your  satisfaction  is  guaranteed.  Price,  50c,  or  55c  postpaid. 

CONKEY'S  POULTRY  WORM  REMEDY— This  is  a  most  neces- 
sary article,  as  it  rids  the  fowl  of  harmful  as  well  as  other  worms,  pro- 
moting the  return  of  a  healthful  condition.  Price,  50c,  postpaid. 

68 


CONKEY'S  POULTRY  LAXATIVE— As  a  reli- 
able laxative  is  often  needed  by  itself,  or  in  connection 
with  another  poultry  remedy,  we  have  added  a  prepara- 
tion which  is  dependable,  and  entirely  harmless.  It  can 
be  used  as  a  laxative  or  purgative  according  to  the  dose. 
It  is  compounded  for  poultry  especially,  is  always  of 
the  same  strength,  and  does  its  work  thoroughly  with- 
out depleting  the  energy  or  usefulness  of  the  fowl. 
It  is  a  great  help  to  the  man  who  makes  money  from 
poultry.  Price,  25c,  postpaid. 

CONKEY'S  HEALING  SALVE— The  poultryman 
should  not  fail  to  keep  this  remedy  on  hand.  It  is  a 
good  antiseptic  ointment  and  has  many  uses  in  healing 
various  wounds,  cuts,  sores,  and  eruptions.  Equally 
valuable  for  human  use.  This  article  will  be  found 
highly  satisfactory  in  every  way,  and  very  inexpens- 
ive. Price,  25c,  postpaid. 

CONKEY'S  HEAD  LICE  OINTMENT— Thou- 
sands of  little  chicks  are  killed  each  year  by  head 
lice — the  largest  blood-sucking  louse  that  infests 
poultry.  Head  lice  cause  more  loss  of  chicks  than 
all  other  causes  combined,  both  directly  and  by 
weakening  the  chick's  health  and  affording  opportu- 
nity for  other  troubles.  CONKEY'S  HEAD  LICE 
OINTMENT  is  a  carefully  prepared  non-poisonous, 
semi-liquid  article  with  an  agreeable  odor,  and  is 

very  destructive  to  the  murderous  lice  while  harmless  to  the  little  chicks 
if  used  as  directed.  (It  is  unexcelled  for  killing  lice  on  little  children). 
It  should  be  remembered  that  powders  are  not  effective  in 
killing  head  lice,  and  this  is  the  only  practical  way  to  reach 
them.  Easy  to  apply,  and  a  little  does  the  work.  It  will  pay 
for  itself  in  saving  one  chick.  Prices,  1  oz.  tube,  lOc;  3  oz. 
tube,  25c,  postpaid. 

CONKEY'S  LICE  POWDER— For  successfully  ridding 
fowls  of  body  lice  nothing  can  equal  a  powder  which  is  prop- 
erly made.  We  consider  this  one  of  the  best  of  our  various 
preparations  and  offer  you  an  article  which  is  of  a  strength  to 
make  it  entirely  effective  and  at  the  same  time  harmless  to  the 
fowl.  It  does  not  simply  make  the  lice  move,  but  it  really  kills 
them.  To  prove  this  for  yourself,  simply  dust  a  fowl  thor- 
oughly with  CONKEY'S  LICE  POWDER,  then  stand  it  on 
a  sheet  of  white  paper  and  ruffle  its  feathers,  and  the  lice  may 
be  found  really  dead  on  the  paper.  Lice  simply  cannot  exist 
where  CONKEY'S  LICE  POWDER  is  properly  used. 
Hens  that  spend  the  day  picking  and  scratching,  in  a  vain 
effort  to  rid  themselves  of  parasites,  cannot  give  you  sat- 
isfactory returns  and  because  of  their  lack  of  vitality,  are 
susceptible  to  all  kinds  of  disease.  CONKEY'S  LICE 
POWDER  is  guaranteed  to  please  you.  It  will  kill  lice 
on  poultry,  cattle,  horses,  fleas  on  dogs,  and  vermin  of 
all  kinds.  It  can  be  used  also  for  bugs  on  cucumbers, 
squash,  and  melon  vines,  slugs  on  rose  bushes,  etc.  It  is 
an  effective  disinfectant  and  germ  destroyer.  Prices: 
5  oz.  pkg.,  lOc,  or  ISc,  postpaid;  15  oz.  pkg.,  25c,  or  40c 
postpaid;  48  oz.  pkg.,  50c,  expressage  extra;  100  oz.  pkg., 
$1.00,  expressage  extra. 


CONKEY'S  LICE  LIQUID— There  are  a  great  many  poultrymen 
who  do  not  seem  to  understand  that  the  Mite  requires  entirely  different 
treatment  than  the  ordinary  louse.  There  is  no  powder  made  that 
will  entirely  rid  you  of  the  Mite,  and  until  you 
are  rid  of  him  he  will  multiply  until  every  fowl  you 
have  is  rendered  useless  or  dies  from  exhaustion. 
In  our  opinion,  the  Mite  will  do  more  to  reduce 
the  profit  of  your  fowls  than  all  other  varieties  of 
vermin  combined.  CONKEY'S  LICE  LIQUID  will 
immediately  destroy  these  terrible  pests,  and  will  rid 
your  poultry  house  of  its  greatest  profit  killer. 

It  can  be  painted  on  the  roosts  and  applied  to 
cracks  and  crevices,  with  a  brush,  full  strength. 
Then  mix  1  part  CONKEY'S  LICE  LIQUID  with 
25  to  50  parts  water  and  spray  the  whole  house 
thoroughly.  Repeat  in  a  week  or  10  days.  This 
makes  an  excellent  disinfectant  and  germ  destroyer 
and  is  cheap  as  it  mixes  with  water.  It  renders  the 
house  pure,  and  wholesome,  and  free  from  infection.  It  is  the  very 
best  Mite  liquid  made  and  we  guarantee  it  to  do  the  work  if  the 
simple  directions  which  come  with  the  can  are  followed.  Mites  attack 
the  fowls  only  when  they  are  on  the  roosts;  they  cover  their  bodies, 
suck  their  blood,  and  hide  by  day  in  the  roosts  and  walls.  They 
do  not  remain  on  the  bodies  of  the  fowls.  Prices  of  CONKEY'S 
LICE  LIQUID,  1  quart  35c;  2  quarts,  60c;  1  gallon,  $1.00.  Expressage 
extra. 

CONKEY'S  FLEA  SALVE— This  is  a  special  exterminator  for 
the  Sticktight  or  Southern  Flea.  This  troublesome  parasite  does  not 
succumb  to  the  ordinary  lice  killers,  but  this  salve  will  rid  the  fowl 
of  them  in  one,  or  at  most,  very  few,  applications.  Prices,  25c,  or  30c, 
postpaid. 

CONKEY'S  LAYING  TONIC— For  the  hen  to  lay  the  greatest 
number  of  eggs,  her  health  must  be  kept  in  perfect  condition  and 
the  egg  producing  organs  kept  free  from  irritation  and  disease.  There 
have  been  put  upon  the  market  many  so-called  egg  producers  which 
are  irritants  in  themselves,  while  others  are  simply  frauds,  producing 
no  effect  whatever,  and  having  no  value  except,  perhaps,  as  foods  for 
which  you  are  paying  ridiculous  prices 

CONKEY'S  LAYING  TONIC  is  a 
result  of  years  of  careful  study  and  ex- 
periment, and  is  a  compound  of  vege- 
table extracts,  herbs,  roots,  etc.,  so  pro- 
portioned as  to  act  gently  on  the  egg- 
producing  organs  to  remove  any  irregu- 
larity which  may  exist,  and  to  invigorate 
and  tone  the  system  to  a  point  only  that 
is  perfectly  natural  in  the  highest  state 
of  the  vigor  and  health  of  the  fowl.  It 
is  not  a  false  stimulant  to  be  followed 
by  a  corresponding  depression  and  lack 
of  vigor,  but  it  is  a  corrective  that  can  be 
absolutely  relied  upon  as  in  accord  with 
scientific  knowledge  of  fowls  and  their  or- 


70 


gans  of  reproduction.  Any  hen  will  lay  eggs  under  normal  conditions,  but 
the  domestic  fowl  is  not  in  its  natural  habitat  in  the  first  place,  and  in 
addition  you  demand  eggs  in  the  winter,  under  conditions  unknown 
to  its  wild  and  natural  state.  And  still  some  thoughtless  or  ignorant 
people  say  to  follow  nature,  when,  if  you  take  their  advice,  your  fowls 
would  not  lay  enough  in  a  year  to  pay  for  their  keeping  for  six  months. 
Not  only  must  that  which  is  lost  from  its  changed  mode  of  living,  but  that 
which  is  demanded  above  its  natural  production,  be  made  up  in  some  way 
or  another.  It  must  be  made  up  in  scientific  care  and  feeding,  or  its 
capacity  is  stunted  instead  of  increased  as  we  demand.  A  properly- 
made  tonic,  to  stimulate  eg«-  production  in  a  common  sense  manner, 
becomes  a  necessity.  CONKEY'S  LAYING  TONIC  has  this  object  in 
view — to  keep  the  bowels  in  good  condition,  to  assist  digestion  and  assimi- 
lation of  egg-producing  and  strength  making  material,  to  give  vigor  to 
the  fowls  and  to  induce  exercise,  so  as  to  tone  the  bird  up  generally  to 
meet  our  unnatural  demands.  By  doing  this  the  fowl  is  kept  at  its  best, 
and  egg  production  can  be  depended  upon.  We  are  in  the  chicken  busi- 
ness for  money,  and  is  it  not  better  to  keep  a  fowl  at  its  maximum  pro- 
duction for  two  years,  and  then  renew  the  stock,  than  to  keep  a  fowl 
for  three,  four  and  five  years  at  a  lower  rate  of  production? 

CONKEY'S  LAYING  TONIC  is  not  a  food  in  ^ itself  and,  in  its  use, 
you  escape  paying  for  bran  and  middlings  which  comprise  the  bulk  of  inferior 
"egg  producers,"  and  which  you  can  supply  for  less  money  from  your  own 
bins.  The  ingredients  used  by  us  are  reliable  and  effective.  THERE  IS 
NOT  ONE  PARTICLE  OF  FILLER  IN  THIS  TONIC,  and  that  is  why 
we  guarantee  that  if  given  according  to  directions,  it  will  increase  egg 
production.  Don't  confuse  this  with  cheaper  preparations,  or  with  those 
which  may  have  disappointed  you.  CONKEY'S  LAYING  TONIC  will 
insure  strength  in  cocks,  more  eggs  and  more  fertile  ones  from  hens,  and 
rapid  growth  and  vigorous  life  in  little  chicks.  It  is  a  big  amount  of 
value  at  small  cost.  CONKEY'S  LAYING  TONIC  should  never  be  fed 
alone;  it  is  a  strong  medicine  and  must  be  mixed  with  food  as  directed. 
Prices,  V/2  lb.  pkg.,  25c;  3^  Ib.  pkg.,  50c;  7  lb.,  $1.00;  25  Ib.  pail,  $3.00. 
Expressage  25c  extra  on  three  smaller  pkgs.,  50c  extra  on  7  lb.  pkg.,  and 
freight  extra,  25c  on  pail.  Expressage  and  freight  mentioned  applies  only 
to  points  east  of  the  Rockies. 

CONKEY'S  NOX-I-CIDE— (Formerly  called  Taroline).  This  is  the 
poultryman's  best  friend.  The  majority  of  dangerous  poultry  diseases  may 
be  traced  to  the  presence  of  germs  which  thrive  in 
Elth  and  uncleanliness.  CONKEY'S  NOX-I-CIDE 
is  a  soluble  disinfectant,  deodorant  and  germ  de- 
fetroyer.  It  mixes  with  water,  in  correct  propor- 
tion for  using,  one  gallon  making  101  gallons  of 
ready-to-use  liquid.  It  is  the  cheapest  and  most 
effective  article  of  its  kind  ever  «put  out.  For 
poultry,  it  is  an  unexcelled  article  for  cleaning  and 
purifying  the  houses,  runs,  brooders,  founts,  and 
utensils.  For  household  use  it  is  of  wonderful 
value  in  almost  every  department.  It  is  unequaled 
for  the  sick  room,  and  for  purifying  everything 
about  the  house,  barns,  outhouses,  kennels,  etc. 

Our  special  booklet  on   NOX-I-CIDE  will  in- 
terest and   surprise  you.     It   shows  hundreds  of 
uses  for  which  NOX-I-CIDE  is  especially  adapted 
Ifis  excellent  for  all  live  stock  and  IS  A  HIGH- 
GRADE    SHEEP    DIP,     It   is    recommended    for    cuts,    galls,    scratches, 

71 


El 


thrush,  cracks,  fissures,  etc.  It  is  an  ideal  disinfectant,  as 
it  removes  odors,  prevents  flies  from  breeding,  and  sweetens  and  purifies 
everything  it  touches.  It  is  excellent  for  eczema  and  skin  diseases 
generally  even  for  humanity.  There  is  hardly  a  place  in  all  domestic 
economy  where  NOX-I-CIDE  will  ever  be  dispensed  with  after  it  has 
once  been  tried.  GET  A  COPY  OF  OUR  SPECIAL  ILLUSTRATED 
NOX-I-CIDE  BOOKLET,  for  it  will  be  found  decidedly  interesting  and 
helpful.  Prices,  $1.50  per  gallon ;  half  gallon,  90c;  1  quart,  60c;  small 
size,  35c.  Expressage  extra.  (Western  prices,  $1.50  gallon;  90c  half 
gallon;  60o  quart;  35c  small  size.) 

CONKEY'S  SULPHUR  FUMIGATING  CANDLES— They  are  easy 
to  light,  safe  to  use,  and  have  protecting  tin  basins.  They  weigh  ^4  pound 
each  and  burn  for  one  hour.  Sulphur  fumes  are  deadly  to  all  germ  and  in- 
sect life,  and  neutralize  germ  infection  when  the  air  is  moist.  To  success- 
fully utilize  sulphur  fumes,  the  air  should  be  well  steamed  before  lighting  the 
candles.  Sulphur  fumes  in  a  dry  air  do  not  do  the  work  intended.  In  places 
where  water  cannot  be  boiled,  a  very  hot  brick  or  stone  in  a  pan  of  water  will 
furnish  the  necessary  steam.  Then  light  the  candles  and  close  the  place  tightly 
for  several  hours.  It  may  be  necessary  to  use  several  of  the  candles  at  one 
time  if  the  premises  are  large.  Be  careful  to  remove  birds  or  pet  animals. 
Prices,  per  box  of  1  dozen  packed  neatly,  $1.00.  Each  lOc— 3  for  25c. 
By  mail,  add  5c  each  to  cover  postage.  Expressage  extra. 


Dog  Remedies 


CONKEY'S   DISTEMPER   REMEDY— Distemper   is   caused  by  a 
germ  and  is  contagious.    A  weakened  condition  favors  the  disease.  Pure-bred 
f  puppies  suffer  greatly  from  it,  al- 

though   one   attack   usually   gives 
immunity  from  a  recurrence. 

SYMPTOMS— The  disease  be- 
gins   with    a    chill,    followed    by 
fever,    the    temperature   going  to 
107  degrees.    There  is  a  discharge 
from  the  nose  and  eyes,  sticking 
the  lids  together.     Usually  a  rash 
breaks  out  on  the  inside  of  the  thighs. 
In  some  cases  there  are  nervous  symp- 
toms, jerking  of  the  head,  twitching  of 
the  muscles,  or  moaning.    The  bowels 
may  be  constipated,  or  there  may  be  a 
severe  diarrhoea  with  fetid  odor.     The 
disease  runs  its  course  in  from  ten  to 
thirty  days. 

TREATMENT— In  early  stages  give 
YZ     ounce     of     Castor    Oil     every    six 
hours    until    bowels    move    thoroughly. 
Injections    of    glycerine     (per    rectum) 
hasten    laxative    action.       Give    CON- 
KEY'S    DISTEMPER    REMEDY    ac- 
cording to  directions.     Nose  and  eyes  should  be  washed  frequently  with 
warm   water,  then   greased   with   vaseline.     Throat   and   nostrils   should 
be  sprayed  three  times  a  day  with  CONKEY'S  PAIN  LOTION.     The 
eyes  should  be  treated  with  CONKEY'S  EYE  LOTION.     The  animal 
should    be    given    beef    tea,    evaporated    milk,   fresh    eggs,    minced    raw 

72 


Beet  and  gruels.  Allow  cold,  fresh  water  at  all  times.  There  are  many 
complications  that  may  occur  with  this  disease,  such  as  Pneumonia,  Bron- 
chitis, Inflammation  of  the  Brain,  and  of  the  Spinal  Cord,  and  Paralysis, 
usually  of  the  hind  quarters,  and  Abscesses  are  likely  to  form  on  some  parts 
of  the  body.  Another  common  sequel  is  Chorea  or  St.  Vitus  dance,  as  shown 
by  a  jerking  of  some  parts  of  the  body.  All  premises  should  be  kept  thor- 
oughly disinfected  with  CONKEY'S  NOX-I-CIDE  according  to  directions 
on  package.  CONKEY'S  DISTEMPER  REMEDY  is  50c,  or  55c,  post- 
paid. 

NOTE:  DISTEMPER  IN  CATS — Distemper  in  cats  should  receive  the 
same  treatment  as  for  dogs,  reducing  the  dose  to  J4  amount,  however. 

CONKEY'S  MANGE  REMEDY— Like  Distemper,  Mange  is  a  very 
infectious  disease.  It  may  be  contracted  from  other  dogs  or  from  infected 
utensils,  crates,  etc.  It  is  caused  by  a  minute  parasite  which  bores 
under  the  skin,  rapidly  multiplying  in  numbers,  and  causing  the  most  intense 
itching.  The  animal  bites  and  scratches  itself  continuously  and  loses  flesh 
and  strength.  It  first  appears  at  the  joints  under  the  forelegs,  on  the  fore- 
head, chest,  or  root  of  the  tail,  and  spreads  until  the  animal  becomes  a 
loathsome  object. 

TREATMENT — First  provide  clean,  dry  quarters.  No  remedy  can 
overcome  this  disease  unless  absolute  cleanliness  and  sanitation  are  main- 
tained. Quarters  should  be  free  from  dampness  and  drafts  and  should  be 
daily  disinfected  with  CONKEY'S  NOX-I-CIDE.  Bedding  should  be 
burned  frequently  and  new,  clean,  dry  straw  provided.  Wash  the  animal 
thoroughly  in  a  solution  of  CONKEY'S  NOX-I-CIDE,  one  tablespoonful 
to  a  quart  of  warm  water  according  to  directions.  Apply  CONKEY'S 
MANGE  REMEDY  according  to  directions  on  package.  It  will  relieve 
the  intense  itching,  cool  the  skin  and  destroy  the  germs.  Tie  the  animal 
so  that  it  cannot  have  access  to  dirt,  but  will  stay  on  its  clean  straw. 
Where  the  dog  may  rub,  disinfect  the  spot  or  object  with  a  strong  solu- 
tion cf  CONKEY'S  NOX-I-CIDE.  To  allay  the  fever,  CONKEY'S 
DISTEMPER  REMEDY  should  be  given  once  or  twice  a  day.  This  is 
not  absolutely  necessary,  but  it  will  hasten  recovery.  CONKEY'S 
MANGE  REMEDY  is  guaranteed  to  please  in  cases  of  Mange  on  either 
dogs  or  cats,  and  is  an  excellent  remedy  for  Eczema,  Canker,  Sore  Ears, 
Ringworn,  and  all  forms  cf  parasitic  skin  diseases.  Price,  SOc;  75c  ex- 
press paid. 

CONKEY'S  WORM  DROPS— The  dog  flea  is  the  common  carrier  of 
the  larvae  of  the  worms  that  often  affect  dogs.  The  symptoms  of  this 
trouble  may  be  various,  such  as  diarrhoea,  loss  of  weight,  restlessness, 
rubbing  of  hindquarters,  muscles  twitching,  colic,  fits,  etc.  Portions  of  worms 
are  sometimes  found  in  the  excrement.  CONKEY'S  WORM  DROPS  have 
been  positively  proven  a  successful  remedy.  They  will  remove  the  worms 
without  any  injury  to  grown  dogs  or  young  puppies.  This  is  a  very  common 
ailment  and  every  dog  owner  should  keep  on  hand  a  package  of  CONKEY'S 
WORM  DROPS,  ready  for  trouble.  Price  SOc,  65c  express  paid. 

CONKEY'S  DOG  TONIC— For  dogs  that  are  run  down,  off  feed, 
clebilitated^from  any  cause,  or  those  recovering  from  disease.  This  tonic  b 
giving  satisfaction  and  can  be  depended  on  to  bring  the  dog  quickly  to 
condition.  Price,  SOc,  or  55c,  postpaid. 

CONKEY'S  PI-NO— We  call  attention  here  to  the  special  value  of 
this  mild  disinfectant  for  use  in  the  dog's  bath  and  to  rid  the  animal  of 
fleas.  Pleasant  to  uce  and  very  effective  as  a  germicide,  insecticide,  etc. 
Keeps  the  skin  in  clean,  healthy  condition,  improves  the  coat  and  heals 
cuts,  sores  or  scratches.  Prices,  7  oz.,  25c;  pint  can,  SOc;  quart,  75c;  half 
gallon,  $1.  Express  extra.  See  also  page  80  and  write  for  special  booklet 
on  PI-NO  73 


Conkey's  Stock  Remedies 

The  whole  subject  of  farm  animals,  their  care  in  health  and  treatment 
when  suffering  from  disease,  is  gone  into  very  fully  in  Conkey's  Stock 
Book,  our  practical  handbook  for  livestock  owners,  224  pages,  very  fully 
illustrated,  which  can.  be  had  through  your  dealers  or  for  lOc  in  stamps  to 
cover  cost  of  mailing. 

Every  Conkey  Remedy  is  under  the  now  world-known  Conkey  guar- 
antee—IT  MUST  PLEASE  YOU  OR  MONEY  WILL  BE  RE- 

There  is  no  risk  or  uncertainty  in  Conkey  treatments.  We  know 
every  Remedy  thoroughly  before  allowing  it  to  go  under  a  Conkey  label. 
Every  article  put  out  can  be  depended  on  for  the  work  we  claim  for  it. 
But  you  have  nothing  to  risk.  In  case  of  any  dissatisfaction  whatever, 
you  have  only  to  tell  us  and  back  will  come  your  purchase  money,  no 
matter  whether  you  are  5,000  miles  away  from  us. 

CONKEY'S  STOCK  TONIC  is  a  general  conditioner,  combining  the 
beneficial  qualities  of  a  great  number  of  reliable  medicines  endorsed  by 
veterinarians  and  practical  managers  of  livestock,  and  also  useful  because 
if  given  in  time,  its  tonic  alterative  effect  will  often  completely  ward  off 
serious  disorders.  Read  carefully  the  following  special  statements  re- 
garding CONKEY'S  STOCK  TONIC. 

Under  modern  conditions  where  all  live  stock 
are  pushed  to  the  limit  for  healthy  production, 
there  are  bound  to  come  occasional  setbacks, 
times  when  an  animal  is  "off-feed,"  run  down, 
or  seems  to  have  some  general  unthrifty  condi- 
tion. 

Horses,  cattle,  sheep  and  swine  all  are  liable 
to  get  into  this  general  rundown,  dispirited 
condition.  Sometimes  the  trouble  is  with 
worms,  which  multiply  in  stomach  and  intes- 
tine and  sap  the  vitality  of  the  animal  itself; 
sometimes  it  is  due  to  digestive  strain,  when 
the  animal  is  under  heavy  production  or  work- 
ing hard  in  a  busy  season.  Sometimes  it  is 
because  the  body  functions  are  upset,  and  do 
their  work  irregularly.  Sometimes  the  trouble 

is  with  blood  running  sluggishly,  feebly,  so  that  it  does  not  quickly 
enough  repair  the  cellular  waste.  Animals  sometimes  cannot  make  use 
of  the  feed  necessary  for  full  production,  they  fail  to  thrive  and  the 
expensive  feed  is  wasted 

It  is  for  just  such  conditions  that  we  prescribe  our  STOCK  TONIC, 
which  acts  directly  on  various  important  organs,  increasing  the  vital 
contractility,  and  acting  especially  on  the  walls  of  the  blood  vessels, 
toning  them,  bracing  them  so  that  they  send  the  blood  racing  along,  re- 
pairing exhausted  tissues,  flushing  out  waste  matter,  dead  cells,  etc., 
which  in  the  sluggish  system  generate  dangerous  poisons. 

Thus  STOCK  TONIC  cleans  the  blood.  Clean  blood  works  wonders 
always.  Nature  works  what  we  call  "miracles"  if  you  can  give  her  just 
clean  blood  to  work  with.  STOCK  TONIC  cleans  the  blood  and  there- 
fore acts  on  every  vital  organ.  Get  them  all  to  act,  these  various  vital 
organs,  and  there  is  no  longer  any  disease,  for  nature  will  keep  the  ani- 
mal healthy,  if  a  sound  working  system  is  provided  for  her  to  use. 

But  keep  this  in  mind:  your  animal  is  probably  under  heavy  pro- 
duction, in  the  dairy,  or  fattening  for  beef,  or  pork  or  mutton,  under  heavy 

74 


strain  of  feeding,  etc.  Nature  cannot  keep  up  the  unnatural  strain  unless 
you  help  her  with  a  tonic  occasionally,  just  such  a  tonic  as  this  condi- 
tioner is. 

A  Rood  plan  is  this:  every  so  often,  for  safety  sake,  give  a  few  doses 
of  CONKEY'S  STOCK  TONIC.  It  will  aid  digestion,  help  the  animal  to 
assimilate  its  feed,  increase  the  appetite,  improve  the  ration  and  prevent 
waste.  Digestion  is  the  first  essential.  No  matter  how  good  the  ration, 
how  scientifically  halanced,  or  how  expensive  the  feed,  IT'S  WASTED 
if  the  animal  does  not  digest  it  fully  and  return  you  your  profit. 

CONKEY'S  STOCK  TONIC  is  all  tonic,  no  filler.  Used  in  small 
doses.  Prices — 1  pound,  25  cents;  2V\  pounds,  50  cents;  5  pounds,  $1.00; 
12-pound  pail.  $2.00;  25-pound  pail,  $3.50.  Express  extra. 

THE  NEW  MEDICATED  STOCK  SALT— CONKEY'S  "SALT- 
EM".  All  animals  need  salt.  But  when  salt  is  given  only  occasionally, 
they  are  pretty  sure  to  take  more  than  is  good  for  them  if  they  get  a 
chance  at  it,  and  scours,  etc.,  will  result.  We  have  studied  this  special 
need  of  farm  animals  and  have  made  up  a  new  preparation  for  horses, 
cattle,  sheep  and  swine,  which  takes  the  place  of  salt,  and  combines 
the  best  suited  medical  elements,  so  that  the  preparation  as  a  whole 
can  be  given  as  a  daily  Atonic,  digestive,  and  worm  remedy,  as  well  as 
a  simple  appetizer.  To  indicate  its  method  of  use,  we  have  called  this 
new  Conkey  article  SALT-EM. 

Left  before  stock  all  the  time  it  fills  their  entire  need  for  salt,  and 
gives  in  addition  a  quick,  easy  way  of  treating  common  diseases.  The 
animals  will  not  overdose  when  they  can  help  themselves  any  time. 
What  they  do  is  to  take  the  medication  just  as  they  need  it,  guided  by 
instinct,  so  that  it  acts  ^  as  a  sort  of  automatic  guard  of  the  general 
health  condition.  For  instance,  an  animal  inclined  to  get  "off  feed" 
will  doctor  itself  with  SALT-EM  if  given  the  opportunity.  An  animal 
troubled  with  worms  will  of  its  own  accord  lick  up  SALT-EM  if  the 
medication  is  where  the  animal  can  get  at  it. 

SALT-EM  left  before  animals  all  the  time  acts  as  a  general  reg- 
ulator and  preventive.  It  increases  digestion,  hence  cuts  down  feed 
waste.  It  restores  tone  and  function  to  overtaxed  organs.  As  a  worm 
medicine  alone,  SALT-EM  would  prove  invaluable  to  any  stock  owner. 
These  facts  indicate  the  general  nature  of  the  article,  but  write  for 
folder  giving  complete  information. 

SALT-EM  is  sold  on  our  regular  guarantee.  Any  stock  owner  can 
try  it  out  in  his  own  feed  shed,  with  the  certainty  that  the  test  will  cost 
him  nothing  if  in  the  end  he  is  not  more  than  satisfied.  But  SALT -EM 
will  satisfy !  Its  results  will  astonish  as  well  as  please  you.  Prices — 100 
pounds,  $5;  40  pounds,  $2.25;  20  pounds,  $1.25;  10  pounds,  75  cents,  f.  o.  b. 
Cleveland. 

CONKEY'S  HORSE  TONIC— A  pure,  powerful  vegetable  tonic, 
harmless  and  very  effective — "one  bottle  is  as  good  as  six  weeks  on 
grass."  After  all  debilitating  diseases;  after  foaling;  in  all  cases  of  con- 
valescence; and  where  the  general  building  up  of  the  system  is  essen- 
tial, CONKEY'S  HORSE  TONIC  is  a  most  excellent  investment.'  Price 
$1.00.  Express  extra. 

CONKEY'S  HEALING  POWDER— This  is  a  most  perfect  healing 
agent  for  use  as  a  dry  dressing  for  any  part.  It  is  especially  valuable 
as  a  GALL  REMEDY,  although,  for  those  who  prefer  an  ointment,  we 
put  out  a  special  GALL  SALVE.  Because  of  the  astringent  and  anti- 
septic properties  we  recommend  CONKEY'S  HEALING  POWDER 
for  the  treatment  of  Galls,  Sore  Backs  and  Necks,  Broken  Knees,  Run- 
ning Sores,  and  Open  Wounds,  as  well  as  for  Chafes,  Cracked  Heels  and 

75 


where  skin  is  unbroken.  It  is  also  an  effective  remedy  for  Thrush,  Sore 
and  Tender  Mouths  and  Canker  in  dog's  ears.  A  wonderful  preventive 
and  remedy  for  Hobble  Chafes,  and  excellent  for  all  sores  on  human 
beings.  Prices  25c  and  50c,  postpaid. 

CONKEY'S  GALL  SALVE— Here  is  an  excellent  healing  ointment. 
It  is  made  especially  for  Harness  and  Saddle  Galls,  Chafes,  Sore 
Shoulders,  Necks  and  Backs  and  will  be  found  invaluable  during  spring 
work.  This  is  an  all-around  good  article  and  can  be  used  for  sores,  cuts, 
etc.,  on  man  or  beast.  Price  25c  and  50c,  postpaid. 

CONKEY'S  CpLIC  REMEDY— This  remedy  is  remarkable  for  its 
quick  results.  It  will  relieve  an  ordinary  case  of  Colic  in  a  few  minutes. 
It  is  not  a  drench  with  all  its  trouble  to  give,  but  just  a  few  drops  on  the 
back  of  the  tongue  and  it  does  the  work.  Can  be  administered  while  on 
the  road.  It  is  the  simplest,  surest,  and  best  Colic  remedy  made.  Price 
50c,  or  SSc,  postpaid. 

CONKEY'S  HOOF  REMEDY— The  hoof  is  more  than  half  the 
horse.  Keep  the  feet  in  good  shape  and  the  main  foundation  to  useful- 
ness and  profit  is  assured. 

CONKEY'S  HOOF  REMEDY  has  a  lanolin  (wool-fat)  base,— to 
which  is  added  other  valuable  ingredients, — that  keeps  the  hoof  in  per- 
fect condition  with  the  use  of  the  ordinary  well-fitting 
shoe,  and  without  expensive  and  useless  pads  under 
the  shoe  that  have  become  such  a  fad  in  late  years. 
It  is  a  sure  preventive  for  Split  Hoof,  Quarter  Crack, 
Seedy  Toe,  Contracted  Heel,  and  hard,  dry  feet.  In 
nine  cases  out  of  ten  it  does  away  with  the  neces- 
sity of  the  bar  shoe  or,  in  other  words,  it  gives  the 
horse  a  natural  foot  with  the  least  liability  of  being 
affected  by  road  conditions,  weather  conditions,  and 
other  causes  of  the  hoof  undergoing  unnatural  con- 
traction and  expansion.  It  is  the  changing  of  the 
hoof  structure  which  causes  nearly  all  the  foot 
troubles  known,  as  well  as  endangering  the  animal 
from  faulty  action. 
A  farmer  finds  his  horse  lame  on  Monday  morning  and  says,  "I 
must  have  overworked  him  on  Saturday."  He  is  dead  wrong!  The  fact 
is  that  the  horse's  feet  got  soaked  on  Saturday  and  dried  out  like  an  old 
boot  over  Sunday  and  the  hard  leafy  layers  press  on  the  sensitive 
laminae.  That  same  thing  causes  nine-tenths  of  all  the  hoof  ills.  CON- 
KEY'S  HOOF  REMEDY  applied  Saturday  night,  or  every  other  day 
as  it  should  be,  would  have  resulted  in  that  horse  going  out  of  the  stable 
on  Monday  morning  like  a  young  colt.  It  would  not  only  have  kept  the 
foot  normally  moist,  but  would  have  supplied  the  moisture  had  the  horse 
not  been  out  in  the  mud  and  wet  of  Saturday. 

If  you  wish  to  use  this  as  a  hoof  packing,  mix  it  with  bran  to 
the  proper  consistency  and  it  will  be  found  the  best  article  for  the  pur- 
pose. 

Prices,  1  pint,  50c;  1  quart,  7Sc;  2  quarts,  $1.25;  1  gallon,  $2.00. 
Express  extra.  Write  for  prices  on  larger  quantities. 

CONKEY'S  EYE  REMEDY— This  is  a  new  Conkey  article,  a  sooth- 
ing, cooling  application,  very  grateful  to  the  animal  when  the  eyes  are 
sore  or  inflamed.  Never  neglect  early  symptoms  for  serious  trouble, 
maybe  incurable  blindness,  may  result.  We  guarantee  satisfaction  with 
Conkey's  Eye  Remedy.  Price,  SOc,  or  SSc  postpaid. 

76 


CONKEY'S  HEAVE  REMEDY— Heaves  is  a  complicated  dis- 
order. The  nerves,  the  digestive  system  and  in  advanced  cases  the 
breathing  organs  are  all  three  affected.  Trouble  usually  starts  with  the 
digestive  system  and  other  symptoms  follow  from  reflex  action.  Many 
cases  are  easily  remedied  with  Conkey's  Stock  Tonic  treatment,  which 
corrects  the  faults  of  digestion.  Of  course,  in  any  treatment,  feed  and 
water  carefully,  so  as  never  to  overcrowd  the  stomach.  Never  work  the 
horse  immediately  after  feeding. 

The  real  test  of  a  Heave  Remedy  is  a  bad  case  of  chronic  heaves. 
Conkey's  Heave  Remedy  acts  directly  on  the  weakened  digestive  organs, 
tones  them  up  and  strengthens  the  whole  nervous  system.  If  directions 
are  followed  we  guarantee  this  remedy  to  be  effective,  and  in  every  case 
sell  on  agreement  your  money  back  if  you  are  not  fully  satisfied  with 
results.  Price,  $1.00,  or  $1.10  postpaid. 

CONKEY'S  WORM  REMEDY— For  horses,  cattle,  sheep  or  swine. 
Almost  any  vermifuge  will  drive  the  harmless  worms,  but  what's  the  use? 
It  is  the  larvae  of  the  hurtful,  ulcerating  worms  that  sap  the  vigor  of  the 
animal  and  that  should  be  expelled.  This  remedy  accomplishes  the  pur- 
pose every  time.  It  drives  out  the  worms  and  leaves  the  animal  free  to 
thrive  and  enjoy  the  benefit  of  his  food.  This  remedy  saves  annoyance 
and  disappointment.  Strictly  speaking,  no  worm  is  harmless.  They  are 
profit  sappers  every  time.  There's  no  use  in  feeding  good  feed  to  worms. 
Get  after  them  every  time  with  CONKEY'S  WORM  REMEDY,— the 
profit  piler.  Price  50c,  or  60c  postpaid. 

CONKEY'S  DISTEMPER,  FEVER  AND  COUGH  REMEDY— 
Conkey's  Distemper,  Fever  and  Cough  Remedy  is  for  Coughs,  Colds, 
and  for  all  diseases  having  fever  or  chills  as  a  symptom.  Influenza; 
Strangles  cr  Distemper;  Epizootic;  Shipping  Fever;  and  Pink  Eye  or 
Cellulitis.  Many  serious  diseases  such  as  Pneumonia,  Bronchitis,  Foun- 
der, and  many  other  inflammatory  diseases  start  simply  with  a  cold.  This 
remedy  should  always  be  used  in  early  stages  so  as  to  check  the  disease 
before  it  becomes  dangerous.  Do  not  run  risks  but  have  it  on  hand  for 
emergency.  Prices  50c  and  $1.00,  postpaid. 

CONKEY'S  ABSORBENT — This  is  our  special  preparation  for 
Spavins,  Ringbones,  Sidebones,  Splints,  Curbs,  and  all  exostosis  or  unnat- 
ural bone  formations,  also  for  soft  bunches,  lumps,  etc.  It  is  excellent 
for  corns.  It  is  intended  principally  as  an  absorbent  as  its  name  implies 
and  will  not  blister  when  directions  are  followed  closely  and  application 
made  as  directed  for  allaying  fever  and  inflammation.  The  remedy  will 
be  absorbed,  WITHOUT  BLISTERING  to  the  extent  of  taking  the  hair 
off,  and  will  reach  the  seat  of  trouble  and  perform  its  work  without  the 
unsightly  surface  wounds  caused  by  violent  blistering  and  firing.  For 
sprained  tendons,  sprained  ligaments,  and  all  abnormal  bone  formations, 
it  is  the  best  and  surest  remedy  ever  put  upon  the  market.  Price  $1.00. 

CONKEY'S  WARMING  LINIMENT— This  is  a  new  Conkey  arti- 
cle. It  is  excellent  for  removing  soreness,  lameness,  swelling  or  stiffness 
in  any  part.  It  strengthens  the  muscles  and  is  especially  recom- 
mended for  sweeny,  or  in  case  of  partial  paralysis,  rheumatism,  strains, 
sprains,  etc.  Very  penetrating  and  stimulating  and  eases  pain.  It  is  a 
warming  application  for  any  part,  very  useful  in  case  of  sore  throat,  or 
lungs,  or  cold  in  chest,  or  for  rubbing  ears  or  legs  to  restore  circulation. 
Pxice  50c.  Not  mailable.  Express  paid,  70c. 

W  CONKEY'S  PAIN  LOTION— Heat,  redness  and  swelling  offer  the 
only  evidence  of  injury  that  is  beneath  the  skin  except,  perhaps,  lameness. 
Often  the  only  treatment  necessary  is  to  reduce  the  inflammation  and 
stop  the  pain.  CONKEY'S  PAIN  LOTION  is  a  harmless,  soothing 

77 


antiphlogistic  that  brings  immediate  relief.  Why  use  a  mud  antiphlogistic 
when  this  is  easier  of  application,  cheaper,  maintains  all  the  best  remedial 
effects  and  acts  at  once?  It  is  soothing  to  even  the  tender  mucous  mem- 
branes. It  is  very  penetrating  and  will  find  its  way  to  hidden  joints  and 
tissues.  For  Sprains,  Curbs,  Swollen  Knees,  and  hot  and  painful  swell- 
ings, there  is  nothing  equal  to  it.  It  is  also  excellent  for  rheumatism 
in  man  or  beast,  and  will  relieve  a  toothache  or  headache  promptly.  Gives 
almost  instant  relief  as  a  spray  for  nose  and  throat.  It  is  excellent  for  a 
thousand  ailments  on  your  animals  or  on  yourself.  Price,  50c.  Express 
paid,  70c. 

CONKEY'S  POLL  EVIL  REMEDY— For  Poll  Evil  and  all  Fis- 
tulas. It  is  a  very  humane  and  effective  treatment  where  most  other  rem- 
edies are  barbarous  in  their  application  and  result  in  spoiling  the  animal  for 
future  usefulness.  Fistulas  are  not  such  difficult  things  to  cure  and  this 
remedy  overcomes  them  surely  and  quickly  and  brings  the  animal  back  to 
absolute  health  without  ruining  him  for  future  service.  It  is  an  easy  meth- 
od of  overcoming  malignant  and  stubborn  fistulous  sores  on  any  part  of 
the  animal.  Price,  $2.00,  or  $2.25  express  prepaid. 

CONKEY'S  BAG  OINTMENT— Dairymen  will  welcome  this  spe- 
cial ointment  for  Sore,  Chapped  Teats,  Cracks  and  Small  Warts,  Bunches, 
etc.  It  is  a  penetrating,  softening  application  which  soothes  quickly. 
H  is  very  successful  in  treating  Garget,  Caked  Bag  or  other  inflammation 
in  sensitive  parts.  Prices  25c  and  50c,  postpaid. 

CONKEY'S  FLY  KNOCKER— Scientists  have  proved  that  many 
infectious  and  dangerous  diseases  are  communicated  by  flies  and  other 
insects,  which  carry  the  germs  and  enable  them  to  infect  man,  beast  and 
fowl.  Not  only  do  they  spread  the  germs,  but  they  are  a  menace  and  an 

annoyance     to     the     peace     and 

health  of  your  stock.     From  the 

time  that  the  flies  first  put  in  an 

appearance    in    the    spring,    until 

late  in  the  fall,  they  worry  and 

torment  the  stock,  keeping  them 

irritated    and    causing    them    to 

lose  flesh,  which  is  replaced  only 

after    loss    of    time    and    much 

extra  feeding. 

CONKEY'S  FLY  KNOCK- 
ER settles  the  fly  problem.  We 
know  many  worthless  articles  PROFIT 

on   the  market  which  have  done 
much  to  disgust  the  public  and  injure  legitimate  trade.     We  do  not  offer 
the  cheapest  article  known,  but  the  best.     It  will  do  just  what  we  claim 
for  it.     AND  WE   GUARANTEE  IT   TO   SATISFY   YOU.     Should   it 
fail  to  do  so,  your  money  will  be  refunded. 

All  the  time  your  stock  are  worried  by  flies  you  are  losing  your 
profits.  Animals  can't  fight  flies  and  make  money  for  you.  You  can  easily 
prove  this  for  yourself,  simply  spray  your  stock  and  see  the  difference  in 
the  work  they  do  for  you. 

CONKEY'S  FLY  KNOCKER  is  easy  to  use,  as  it  is  sprayed  directly 
on  the  animals,  or  can  be  applied  with  a  cloth  if  preferred.  It  both 

78 


kills  the  flies  and  drives  others  away.  It  will  rid  your 
stable  of  flies  and  will  give  the  tails  a  rest.  It  is 
positively  harmless,  and  if  properly  us*d  it  will  not 
taint  the  milk.  Sprayed  on  stock  in  summer  it  will 
prevent  lice  and  grub  in  winter.  Sprayed  on  your 
horse  before  going  for  a  drive  it  *»'H  keep  the  flies 
away  and  prevent  the  fretting  so  wearing  to  a  nerv- 
ous animal.  One  ounce  of  liquid  will  spray  two  ani- 
mals. Farmers,  dairymen,  stablemen  and  horse- 
shoers  find  it  too  valuable  ever  to  be  without  it  if 
they  once  try  it.  Saves  milk,  saves  flesh,  saves  spirit, 
saves  time  in  handling  stock.  Stablemen  find  it  saves 
shoes  and  floors  also.  The  following  letter  (one  of 
hundreds)  comes  from  East  Springfield,  Pa.: 

"The  Fly  Knocker  we  ordered  of  you  came  duly  to  hand  and  we  find 
that  it  does  all  you  claim  for  it.  When  we  began  the  trial,  our  cows  were 
covered  with  flies  and  their  tails  were  lashing  at  a  furious  rate.  When  we 
finished  spraying  the  last  cow,  all  tails  were  as  quiet  as  in  mid-winter,  hav- 
ing nothing  to  do.  We  find  upon  use,  that  the  knocker  not  only  keeps  the 
flies  off  the  stock,  but  it  drives  them  from  the  stable.  We  would  not  be 
without  it  for  five  times  the  cost.  M.  A.  Harring- 
ton &  Son." 

The  above  is  what  everybody  thinks  after  one 
thorough  trial.  It  solves  the  problem  and  CONKEY'S 
FLY  KNOCKER  stands  in  a  class  by  itself  as  a  pro- 
tection against  the  worst  pest  of  the  stable  and  dairy 
barn. 

The  camper  could  enjoy  his  outing  were  it  not 
for  the  mosquitoes  which  make  camp  life  miserable. 
CONKEY'S  FLY  KNOCKER  will  also  settle  the 
mosquito's  bill.  It  is  perfectly  harmless,  has  a  pungent 
odor,  and  it  keeps  every  insect  out  of  buzzing  distance. 
Prices,  1  quart,  35c;  2  quarts,  60c;  1  gallon,  $1.00; 
5  gallons  (jacketed),  $4.00.  Expressage  extra.  For 
price  on  sprayers,  see  page  80. 

CONKEY'S  DISINFECTANT— This  is  put  out  as  a  special  propo- 
sition to  the  Sheep  Owner  and  the  Farmer  and  we  guarantee  it  to  be  a 
dependable  and  reliable  article.  IT  IS  THE  BEST  SHEEP  DIP 
KNOWN  for  the  cure  of  scab  and  the  extermination  of  Sheep  Ticks.  It 
is  an  excellent  remedy  for  all  skin  diseases  on  man  or  beast;  it  will 
exterminate  all  manner  of  insects,  slugs,  ants,  and  bugs ;  and  is  a  splendid 
healer  for  sores  and  wounds.  It  will  kill  all  disease  germs  and  prevent 
disease  about  the  home,  stables  or  outhouses.  IT  IS  SAFE,  as  it  will. 
not  explode  or  even  burn;  it  is  not  poisonous  when  mixed  for  use,  and 
is  not  corrosive.  It  will  not  curl,  burn,  or  stain  the  wool  when  used  as  a 
dip,  and  is  not  nauseating  to  sheep  or  lambs  if  they  swallow  some  of  it 
while  being  dipped.  Lambs  can  nurse  ewes  directly  after  dipping  without 
harm.  It  is  also  very  cheap,  as  1  gallon  mixes  with  100  gallons  of  water 
to  make  the  ready-to-use  emulsion,  making  101  gallons  for  all  disinfect- 
ing purposes  and  for  the  price  of  1  gallon  of  Disinfectant.  There  is  none 
better  for  general  all-around  use.  Prices,  2  quarts,  60c;  1  gallon,  $1.00. 
Expressage  extra.  Write  for  particulars  on  larger  quantities. 

79 


CONKEY'S  PI-NO— A  disiniectant  for  home  use,  properly  called  "a 
breath  from  the  fragrant  pines."  A  delightful  article  that  contains  all 
the  qualities  of  the  best  disinfectants.  Antiseptic,  Parasiticide,  Insecticide, 
and  Germicide.  Fine  in  the  bath  and  laundry.  Refreshing  for  sick-room 
use.  Makes  an  excellent  gargle  for  Coughs,  Colds  and  Sore  Throat. 
PRICES— 7  oz.,  25c;  1  pint,  50c;  1  quart,  75c;  y*  gallon,  $1.00;  1  gal,  $1.50; 
5  gals.,  $6.50.  Expressage  extra. 

Sprayers 

CONKEY'S  PERFECT  SPRAYER 

A  good,  dependable 
sprayer  will  be  found  a 
necessity  for  using- 
CONKEY'S  NOX-I- 
CIDE,  LICE  LIQUID, 
FLY  KNOCKER,  or 
any  liquid  disinfectant 
or  insecticide.  CONKEY'S  PERFECT  SPRAYER,  while  costing  but  very 
little,  will  be  found  very  serviceable;  will  spray  directly  up,  or  in  any  direc- 
tion, and  we  offer  it  as  the  best  spray  pump  manufactured  that  can  be  sold 
for  the  same  price.  Price,  50c.  each  or  75c.  postpaid. 


GUARANTEE 

If  at  any  time,  under  any  circumstances, 
you  buy  a  Gonkey  Remedy  and  are  not 
satisfied  with  the  treatment,  you  are 
entitled  to  have  your  money  back,  without 
question  or  quibble,  on  your  plain  state- 
ment that  results  did  not  satisfy  YOU. 
Ask  your  dealer  or  write  direct  to  The  G.  E. 
Gonkey  Company,  Cleveland,  Ohio,  U.S. A. 


Now  Ready — Conkey's  Stock  Book 

224  pages,  fully  illustrated.  The  best  book  yet  on 

livestock.     See  announcement  next  page 

how  to  get  this  big  $1.00  book 

FREE 


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